Complete Guide To Island Peak - Everything You Need To Know

Here is the culmination of every bit of information I have to give about trekking to and climbing Island Peak, a 6189m mountain in Nepal.
Watch this video alongside my 'pre-trip gear list' for Island Peak to get a full grasp of how to pack and prepare, and what to expect on the trail and mountain.
There are many things to consider before leaving for an expedition in Nepal. Island Peak is a popular first destination for aspiring mountaineers (this was the case for me), and preparing for such a feat can be overwhelming.
I hope that this video in combination with my pre-trip video for Island Peak can make it so those who also want to attempt an Island Peak summit can have an easier time preparing, and a better chance at reaching the summit.
Follow along with my short video series of my Island Peak expedition to gain an even better understanding of the journey!
Hope this helps, enjoy!
Timestamps:
0:00 - Scenic Footage
2:18 - Intro
4:48 - Trekking Companies
5:40 - Packing Guide
6:22 - Goretex Layers
8:56 - Gloves
10:05 - Microspikes
10:45 - Equipment Hire
13:14 - What I Got Wrong
15:10 - Important Topics
15:20 - Lukla Flights
16:34 - Shopping
17:30 - ATMs
18:10 - Weather
20:46 - Daily Expenses
22:28 - Training
25:00 - Trek To EBC
29:56 - Climbing Island Peak
34:56 - What I'd Do Differently
36:34 - 4 Rules Of AMS
37:20 - Rule 1
37:55 - Rule 2
40:25 - Rule 3
40:44 - Rule 4
40:56 - Outro

[@betterhiking]

Some additional tips I forgot to mention in the video that might be helpful - will continue to update the list as more people chip in with useful information. - Take vitamin supplements as your diet is not likely to provide you with enough nutrients. - Your travel insurance only needs to cover you to 6000m as you cannot be rescued by helicopter on Island Peak. - Ensure your travel insurance covers helicopter rescue and all associated medical bills in the event that you require medical evacuation from the mountains. Know your travel insurances claim process and choose a company that does not require upfront payment for helicopter rescue. My trekking company recommended Alianz Insurance.

[@Rick-hm8fc]

Just got back from Island Peak a few days ago myself (who knows, we may have crossed paths) as my first mountaineering/high altitude experience ever and I must say, this video is spot on. I'm also from Aus so I never really had any experiences above ~1,500m so I didn't know what to expect, this video would've been perfect to help me out before I left. A few takeaways from my trip: - There are a lot of real and fake stores in Kathmandu if you forget anything. The real stuff is a little harder to find but still definitely cheaper than what you can get here in Aus. The fake stuff though is still great quality for the most part. The vendors are very honest about it not being "real" but even though it may not be official GoreTex the gear works well. The majority of porters and guides use the fake stuff and it still works great. Real is always safer of course. There are also a few real stores in Namche worst case (still somehow cheaper than Aus...) - Cash is king on the hike. Most of the small stores are run out of people's houses along the hike and it's better to have more cash than what you think you'll need. Bottled water and small treats like Snickers are everywhere and definitely something that helped me through. The ATMs can often run out of cash considering how remote they are so sort this out before leaving Kathmandu. - It's great to have medications sorted before you go, but worst case you can always grab some from Namche or even Dingboche on your way up. Anytime after these towns and it'll be pretty difficult. Personally, a few recommendations from me are Immodium (or any gastro drug with Loperamide Hydrochloride in it), moisturiser/vaseline, cold & flu meds, zinc, painkillers, electrolytes/vitamins, laxatives and antibiotics (just incase). - I took Diamox with me on the trip but luckily didn't need it. Pretty much everyone else in our team used theirs and it seemed to really help, but definitely only take it if you really need it. It will make you lose water quicker though so definitely drink more if you're taking it. - My main water source was a BlackWolf Bladder in my backpack. This worked a treat the entire trip apart from the early morning summit where the line froze, it defrosted by the time we hit the ice wall. The nozzle utilises a valve you have to bite to open which helps with crushing any ice that forms in it, plus blowing back any water out of the line after each drink minimizes the possibility of it freezing up. - I'd recommend some cramp-on/mountaineering experience beforehand. I had never done anything like this, and despite some solid fitness, I defintiely struggled with the technical aspects. We were given a quick 2-hour session before summit day on how to use the gear but were not prepared for how to tackle the ice/rocks most of the way up. All up this is a fantastic video! Very thorough and great to hear someone else's lessons from the trip. All the best with your future adventures, I'm sure they'll be just as amazing!

[@betterhiking]

Thanks for your comment and perspective. All good points you mentioned and confirm most of what is mentioned in the video. Not sure about if I mentioned anything about having some degree of technical experience, but you are very much correct. I was one of the few people from my group who knew their kit and how it all worked, and didn’t have any trouble with using crampons - those who didn’t suffered a little bit, but not enough to make it so they couldn’t climb. It was a great experience for myself and hopefully so for you too - I know I’ll be going back again very soon!

[@nikolaiquigley9218]

Thanks for all the info. Very good video. Congrats on the summit

[@aventyrskonsulterna]

Another great video! Thanks!

[@alburg278]

Hi Josh, I really enjoyed watching this video. I've trek to EBC and Kala Patthar last year. I enjoyed it so much that I will be back this year for Island Peak and the Three Passes. Concerning Diamox, my doctor refused to give it to me. My guide said, it wasn't a problem just use the Sherpa Diamox = garlic soup instead :). So I had garlic soup everyday for supper. For me it worked fine I had no altitude issues at all. After returning home, I talked to my doctor again and asked him why so many that used Diamox had issues. His responds was as, that as soon as you take Diamox you have to drink even more and they probably didn't. As I live in a rather flat area, my part of the training starting 10 weeks before. I went to the gym and had them come up with a training plan for legs and back strength. Went there three times a week for an hour. Four weeks before I would take my bag pack with me, loaded with 25kg (more than the actually carried wheight) and use the stairmaster for an hour. Once a week I add one hour of treadmill to this, at max incline. Never have I seen so confused looks haha. My trinking habit was that I would have a Ginger, Lemon, Honey tee for breakfast, lunch and supper, a 1 liter Nalgene bottle with an added minerals tablet and two too three liters of water in my the water bladder. Enjoy your future adventures and stay save

[@betterhiking]

Great info, thanks for sharing your experience. I am also planning to return next year to climb Lobuche Peak so keep up with the content I’ll put out on preparing for that as you could find it useful. You are correct with Diamox, it is a diuretic. If you keep your fluids up it is fine in small doses (personal experience, I had no side effects and will most likely use it again).

[@user-hy7di3dm6s]

Great insights. Thanks for sharing. Going in October.

[@betterhiking]

Good luck mate!

[@lmpn3]

Great video, thanks for all the info.

[@betterhiking]

Cheers, glad it was of use!

[@richardmichael1445]

Great! Really good stuff mate. I'm off in December. Your vid has answered many questions for me. Like the tips too especially on rented gear. I was going to rent a sleep bag and down jacket but I think now I'll go buy my own. I'm training most days and still 5 months away. I have this fear I won't be fit enough so want to over prepare on that one. Ever so glad I found your film. Cheers buddy. Happy adventures

[@betterhiking]

Very glad it’s helped you mate. Safe travels and I hope you enjoy island!

[@tudorpopescu1708]

This is an excellent video, thanks for all the tips!

[@betterhiking]

Thank you my friend, much appreciated

[@tudorpopescu1708]

Hi! I’m back with a quick question about hiring gear, if that’s okay - my intention is (as you’ve kindly suggested) to only hire technical climbing gear. Should I get my gear in Kathmandu or somewhere else? Further, may I ask how much you’ve paid for the stuff you’ve hired? Many thanks!

[@betterhiking]

Hey, ask as many questions as you need, here to help! You can hire in Kathmandu but you will then need to take into consideration the weight of your bags on the Lukla flight. The villages have climbing equipment, Chhukungs technical gear hire was ok enough for island peak (although my personal safety locking carabiner failed...). The heaviest bit of climbing kit you'll take is your boots which i suggest buying your own - a lot of mountaineering specific climbing equipment is actually quite light and compact. I paid $130USD for my equipment hire.

[@tudorpopescu1708]

@@betterhiking Many thanks - that's really helpful!

[@karipintakivi9153]

Trekking company: Just few years ago these Trekking Peak climbs had to be arranged in Kathmandu, guide all the way. Now it is possible to hike to EBC independently and just show up at the foot of the mountain (in case of Island Peak at the Chukhung lodge cluster), pay something like $600-800, rent gear and climb. Couple of nights at the BC, food and guiding included in addition of the peak permit. Much cheaper and more convenient than joining an "expedition".

[@betterhiking]

You are not allowed to trek or climb in the Khumbu region without a guide. Also from this experience renting your equipment is not a good idea. The equipment is old, worn and potentially faulty. So go cheap at your own risk, or learn the skills and bring your own equipment that you know how to use.

[@karipintakivi9153]

@@betterhiking Only half right there. Trekking peaks like Imja Tse (Island peak), Mera, Lobuche East etc require a guide, but trekking is possible without a guide just as before. Local government refuses to comply with the new (March 31st 2023) compulsory guide rule and compulsory TIMS card and levies a local "tourist tax" instead for the same amount. Central government seems to be powerless over the strong and wealthy Sherpa community there. Thus people trek in Solu-Khumbu without guides just as before. Actually almost everywhere in Nepal, as the rule can not be implemented as there are no checkpoints... Certainly having good own fitted gear is better than rental, but if somebody wants to climb any of those three peaks out of a whim it is now possible. I myself crossed Amphu Labtsa pass from DIngpoche, summited Mera and exited over Zatrwa La to Lukla in 1985. This took only 7 days, Mera summit from the pass in 4 hours. Naturally no permits, nobody there. Also climbed to Lho La pass behind EBC with an American West Ridge Expedition. With Adidas oregon joggers (Everest). Had second hand Koflach plastics for Amphu & Mera. You have OK videos, keep up the good work.

[@betterhiking]

I’m returning with my own group to Gokyo. Could go guide-less but I would like to give work to the trekking guides I met on my last trip, lovely people. Then on to climbing Lobuche Peak. This will be a self sufficient climb. No fixed ropes, all own gear. But this is due to having experience. I personally wouldn’t recommend the average person to trek in the region without a guide, especially if they also wanted to do a trekking peak.

[@karipintakivi9153]

@@betterhiking I do understand people wanting to trek without guides, but I have always had a guide or porter-guide, not so much for route finding or bossing me around, but as a fixer and translator etc. Also a porter, as I do not see trekking as something where I need to haul my own luggage just to show I can. So far 11 months spent on trails in Nepal on 10 visits since 1984. Gokyo: consider "Cultural Gokyo" route for variety: Go up via Namche - Tengboche - Phortse - Thore/Thare - Nha - Gokyo (exit via Renjo La to Thame not applicable in this case). On return from Lobuche East hike Pangpoche - Periche - Mong La - Namche. This way you can enjoy the most impressive trails in Khumbu on one trip making a figure-8 route on map.

[@nwoodman1]

Some great tips. Definitely load up on cold and flu tablets, those Teahouses are like Petrie Dishes for all sorts of bugs. Might be worthwhile taking some vitamin supplements - Vitamin C, Berocca, the diet gets progressively stodgier the higher up and there is also a running theory that altitude messes with your digestion and it’s ability to absorb nutrients. Would also suggest some toe and hand warmers may come in handy, placed between sock layers, they were a godsend. In hindsight, Island Peak is a battle of two parts. The primary battle is to keep your health intact to give it a decent crack 😃. Keep up the great work with the videos 👍

[@betterhiking]

Thanks Nigel 🤟

[@alc8011]

Hi @betterhiking! thanks for this very useful guide. In the previous video about the gear you said you were going to use a -10ºC for the EBC part and you were going to rent a down sleeping bag for Island Peak. I'm planning Island peak for middle of october and I have a few questions: 1- Did you finally rent a -20C sleeping bag that in Chukkung? 2- Was ok the - 20ºC sleeping bag you rented? 3- And the -10ºC sleeping bag for EBC I guess was more than enough, do you think it is possible to carry a lighter sleeping bag (like a 0ºC) and use blankets in the tea houses? Thanks!!

[@betterhiking]

Gday, I did as I mentioned in the initial pre-trip video, it worked well enough, can’t comment if the sleeping bag was -20 comfort rated but for the 3 hours I slept in it, it was fine. -10 bag was great for EBC. I wouldn’t go anything less than -5, October leading into November can get cold I believe. There are plenty of good sleeping bag brands that make -5 bags less than 1kg (Western Mountaineering, Cumulus to name a few).

[@OriginalSlash63]

great vids 👍 watched this and the gear list vid. I'm tentatively planning IPC next year (2025) but doing an EBC trek this oct-Nov. I have NO climbing experience at all ! and suffer from the "no worries mate , how hard can it be?!" syndrome, common to alot of Aussies 🤣 I'm considering doing the Australian Alpine Academy event in prep. BUT that requires having alot of the alpine gear already (plus the cost of the event itself) . Obviously considering my (and everyone else's safety) I would benefit from doing it ! (sorry pre IPC climb not EBC trek) My question is , in your opinion, would it be achievable without doing the AAA course !? assuming i follow a reasonably rigorous pre training regime. and assuming a successful EBC trek . I am i likely to fail (or hamper the team) due to lack of technical climbing knowledge (intermediate alpine skills) ? cheers

[@betterhiking]

I would strongly suggest gaining experience in basic mountaineering, but I wouldn’t say it is necessary to be professionally taught - the best case scenario is to link up with someone who can take you out on a few winter climbs. Technical mountaineering experience isn’t necessary for island peak as you will be using an ascender on fixed lines, but knowing the basics would be very helpful to maximise success.

[@christophertaffard674]

Great video, I live in Sydney and am looking to do EBC + IP next year. I have many questions... the first of which is insurance. I'm struggling to find a provider for over 6,000m. Any tips? Who did you go with?

[@betterhiking]

Hey, glad you enjoyed it! Insurance was an interesting one, something I should’ve covered… my trekking company recommended Allianz insurance. I went with CoverMore from FlightCentre but I can’t say how good they were because I didn’t have to use them. You won’t need to be covered for over 6000m because you won’t be able to get rescued from that altitude anyway, so anything that covers under 6000m is fine. If you have any more questions feel free to shoot me a message on Instagram @betterhiking

[@thegorn]

Champ how did you go with that Osprey Talon 44? Was it a good size or too big? I'll be EBC'ing in October and am considering the Osprey Talon 36 vs 44. Thanks man.

[@betterhiking]

Go for the 36L for EBC. Extra room was for carting climbing gear, but even then I could've gotten away with the 36L

[@nikaz9119]

Quick question, how can you avoid teahouses? Understood from my agency that there is no other alternative

[@betterhiking]

I believe there are options to tent camp along the trek. The point I was making was to avoid spending time in the main dining halls of the tea houses the higher you go as they become more and more crammed with people who are sick.

[@nicholasjones1]

I've got my volume on 100% but I cant hear what you're saying. The ads are much louder. I'm playing it on with CC, some great tips - thank you.

[@betterhiking]

Odd. KZbin should loudness normalize all videos that fall below a certain loudness threshold... hope the captions are right at least!

[@nicholasjones1]

@@betterhiking Thanks for the reply. I'll let you know if I find out what's going on!

[@betterhiking]

The video is unusually quiet, was one of the first I made an was unsure how to correctly set levels to KZbin uploads. Nevertheless KZbin should still automatically bump up the audio, so that's a shame. You'll have to look out for future uploads when I prepare to head back this April!

[@zaidanaldzakir2008]

@aqiss and family @rekaputri.official