Compression check and First start after Jeep Liberty CRD top end re-build

In this video, we check the cylinder compression, turn the engine over to get oil to the top end then test fire for the first time since the top end re-build.

[@unclemikeb]

I really like that engine in that Jeep. Good visibility, easy to park, a sturdy workhorse if needed to pull a heavy trailer. Plus, with winter grade tires it can shove its way through some really deep snow. There have been times when cars were mighty glad to have me cutting a trail for them. LOL one thing I would change is the springs. When weather is cold she rides like an old army truck. I'm thinking I'd like to find someone who can make replacement springs with a bit softer metal but with thicker bar stock that would still have the same weight rating.

[@unclemikeb]

I was thinking the only way to check compression was through the injector opening so I did a search and found your video. I have this engine in a 2005 Liberty. It is running great with 260,000 miles. I have had the dealer replace the timing belt every time it was at the 100,000 mark. I have done work on other engines with no problem but this seemed like a job for a factory mechanic. I'm thinking I should give it a try next time when it approaches the 300,000 mark. I plan to do the compression check soon to learn how things are inside. It still pulls really strong so it is hard to believe there is an incredible amount of wear. I am fortunate to have a biodiesel station near my home and I fill up there most of the time. The sign indicates the fuel varies from 5-20 percent. I started doing that at about the 10,000 mile mark. According to other folks, when the EPA ordered the sulfur removed from fuel, there was a need for something else to act as lubricant to the pump and the injectors. Must have been good advice. That engine has not needed any work other than the timing belt. Some farmers near me buy 100% biodiesel in the summer.Those engines are lot quieter once the biodiesel makes it way to the engine. You can actually hear the difference! Another issue that might have added to its longevity is true synthetic engine oil. I have been changing fluid and filter every 5,000 miles. I watched a video about synthetic oil and the guy suggested I was wasting my money. Synthetic should be good till the 10,000 mark. He suggested if you use it hard, change the filter at 5,000 then oil and filter at 10,000. I use Howes treatment every fill up in winter and about every third in the summer. That little diesel has made a believer of me.

[@alexmaclean501]

You guys are the 💣

[@msPaulaA1]

So many fun things here. It’s ALIVE. And it sounds so much better than your first video. 👍 and that it’s running much smoother than before. And you got the clap and f**ked it all up. 😂. Did you get it from Claude? 🤷🏻‍♀️😂. Love the bloopers, watch to the end. Seriously it’s great to see and hear it run. Congratulations.

[@yo5848]

okay I have seen another video of yours and I see that you have already answered this question I have to check it, I put the engine in gear and a tappet sounded, although it started well then the engine started to fail slightly and black smoke came from the exhaust, I have the suspicion that some tappet is not right

[@migueltt9096]

hola desde españa ,muy buen video hay pocos tan claros, estoy ahora mismo como tu mismo motor y mismos cambios, es vital poner grasa de cobre en la junta? son los tornillos originales de culata en chrysler tiene cabeza el tornillo no tuerca como los tuyos, los aprietes variaran?

[@daytonagrayghost]

Hello Miguel, thank you! The copper spray is optional and depends on the condition of the head and block. If there is any corrosion in the metal, the spay is recommended to help the seal. I upgraded from the head bolts to the ARP head studs and nuts. So yes the torque specs are different if you are using the bolts. The ARP studs are stronger and can hold more pressure than the factory bolts.

[@beinthenowmedia7638]

Oh ok, here is video 8?

[@generalcaeser9176]

I need help. 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Diesel: I was pulling 4k pounds for about 500 miles and the last 80 miles was a solid gradual up hill. I noticed it wasn't going into over drive about 20 miles before the big problem started. We heard a pop. Not a super loud pop but a pop any way. Noticed there was zero oil but was idling fine, just no power at all. It would move a foot and stop so I quickly shut her down. Sent a friend down 6 hours from home to pick it up. He poured a gallon of oil in it and it all ran out. He said a lot of oil was coming out of the exhaust. It doesn't overheat or smell like burnt antifreeze. Also there was no check engine light on but the oil light did come on a little and I added some oil but the oil light went off and never came back on. Did I blow my motor or am I lucky enough that this could be just the turbo or something even cheaper? I can't afford this right now. =(

[@daytonagrayghost]

It sounds like you blew the motor.

[@user-hl7ut6wi5f]

its low compression, 20 bar-low, 28 bar- good. (from chrysler voyager 2.5 crdi)

[@azrailfan2717]

Excellent Video 🤠. Perhaps you may be able to help. I have a 06 CRD that I’ve replaced the glow plugs, glow plug wires, EGR Gasket, fuel bridge and 3 injector seals. I did all that and it’s having a hard time starting. It wants to turn over but keeps stalling. My friend told me that there’s a ton of air in the fuel system. What’s one way of bleeding the air out of the system asides from cracking the fuel rails? Any tips will be appreciated thanks 🤠

[@daytonagrayghost]

A lift pump added to the fuel tank solves all air in fuel problems. There are several good videos and support on how to do this. ID parts sells the pump and wire harness.

[@vidjunkiej]

Who Is the manufacturer of that kit?

[@decluttergoals8045]

Hypothetical question here ... the air intake for the passenger cabin is technically in the engine bay, although compartmented. If the engine, exhaust, seals, etc. -- something was allowing exhaust / smoke to be generated within the engine bay (vs. escaping out the tailpipe), would it be possible to smell smoke in the passenger cabin? If it were subtle, would there be some type of CO detector or other gas detector that would be able to determine if there are any unwanted gases in the cabin?

[@daytonagrayghost]

Cabin air, when not using recirculation, is supposed to come from the bottom windshield cowl, not from under the hood. However on these Libertys, Jeep made a half assed attempt as sealing the air intake from the hood so yes if you have an exhaust leak, it will easily get drawn into the cabin. I suspect a home co2 detector would work to sense exhaust. I do not know of any home NOx detectors.

[@beinthenowmedia7638]

At what point in this process do you recommend changing the oil and oil filter?

[@yo5848]

Hi Jim now i'm with this engine I think I had a problem when mounting the valve cover, I think some valve pusher has moved, it seems a difficult task that they do not move when the cover is placed. Any special technique? sorry for bad english

[@robertthomson2494]

Good day, may I ask what ARP studs you used thanks reference number or identification number