#concrete

[@Doris-y5v]

I love it, I love it , I love it, I have been searching for this method type, and after multiple videos and information nothing this like this , this is exactly what I need for all my projects. All in one , clay and cement, and the best is water proof as well. Thank you, than you. You are a professional ''old school'' handy man.

[@AJTarnas]

to summarize the video: 5c fine sand, 10c OPC, 2c metakaolin, 0.5-0.75c pva fiber, 5c liquid (liquid is 3 parts water to 1 part acrylic admixture). power mix til small clumps/balls form. then mix/knead by hand with small additions of liquid (less than 1c).

[@dperry428]

Yes, that's about right. Start with 1/2 the amount of cement in water and add tiny amounts until the mix is desired consistency.

[@sagecreekwitt3301]

Thanks for all the videos and recipes. You've helped me immensely! I'm currently rebuilding my 250' stone wall. My neighbours think I'm nuts but I love mixing a few buckets of mortar and setting a few stones first thing in the morning .

[@KarlRLang]

Mr. Perry thanks so much for your recipe and instructions! I followed them and used the "clay" to fashion a full-sized copy of a 1922 cubist sculpture, "Sitting Man" by Jacques Lipchitz. I built a framework out of hardware cloth and steel wool with a hot glue gun and then added the clay mixture to the framework, mixing only about a double handful at a time. It worked out great! I used a Dremel tool to smooth the final surface and then painted it to look like bronze. I learned a few things about making sharp edges and dealing with cracks. If anyone wants any tips I am happy to pass them along with pictures.

[@dperry428]

I'm glad you found the mix worthwhile. Please share what you did on your channel.

[@221b-Maker-Street]

Can we see the pics please? If you could post them on your channel, thanks!

[@alicestadig9468]

How did you deal with cracks? And making shape edges would love to know thank you

[@debbiebaron1864]

How do you deal with cracking?

[@abwolf2975]

It is so kind of you to share this information and respond to each person's questions. Thank you very much.

[@dperry428]

My pleasure. Thank you.

[@ronmccombs9133]

He's the best on utube, still waiting for the book.

[@dperry428]

Forget the wait. I'm too old and there are already a ton of books about concrete out there.

[@221b-Maker-Street]

Thanks so much for such an interesting video. May I also say, you have the patience of a saint in responding to the myriad questions - often exactly the same question already posted by someone else and already answered by you - if only people took a moment to read your thoughtful replies first!

[@dperry428]

Thank you for the comments. I spent 34 years teaching science to 8th grade kids. I got used to them asking the same things over and over, sometimes right after another just asked the same thing. Also, sometimes people are in too big a hurry to read through the comments to see if it's already been covered. Thanks again.

[@rolturn]

I really appreciate this video. None of the other videos I have found on sculpting concrete share a detailed recipe. I have watched your video 5 times or more while waiting on the metakaolin to arrive before trying it myself.

[@dperry428]

When you make the mix, it is very important that you are careful with the amount of water added. No mix can be like clay if too much water is added.

[@rolturn]

@@dperry428 thank you

[@sandrahoneycutt4395]

You're help is so appreciated..thank you for taking time with new people on your channel.

[@dperry428]

Happy to help

[@protectpr7064]

if you're working with temperatures above 90F, would you consider adding some sugar to the mix? If so, how much? Maybe use cold water instead and a covering canopy if outside? Because it looks like you'll be pressed for time especially for beginners like me. About my project- Make simulated stones in a 4ft tall and 75ft long retaining wall that's already in place. I was planning on 1-cleaning first, 2-Attach an overlapping fiber mesh, 3-Create your mix with a little more water add 25% thin set adhesive to prepare wall. 4- Followed by your mix more peanut butter to create 1/2 to 0.75 in thickness, 5- stamp or use other means to create stone-like figures, 6-paint, 7- Matte seal. Thoughts?

[@dperry428]

I would be VERY careful using sugar as a retarding agent. The dosage is about .05 to .06% of the weight of CEMENT in the mix. More than .1% could result in a mix that never sets. If you're intent on using a retardant, then purchase a commercial retardant. For your type of project that is going to be done in relatively small doses over a period of time, you can retard, as I did from time to time, by simply putting ziploc bags of ice in the liquid used to make the mix. Personally, if it's above 90 degrees, I'm not going to work outside very long. I made this particular video for those that were wondering about mixes they'd seen that worked like clay. I use this mix only for sculptural areas where the mix is directly affected by gravity, such as the underside of a concrete railing or application in an overhead situation. For your project, I'd use a 3 to 1 sand/cement ratio for base or scratch coat and 2 to 1 or 1 to 1 for finish coats or decorative things like rocks. As far as thinset, I have read of people who are doing decorative concrete using half cement mix and half thinset, but I have no experience trying it myself. You might, if you haven't already, take a look at my chain-link conversion project I did a number of years ago. There are several videos in this playlist: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iHKnf36BmdOGhNE

[@protectpr7064]

@ thank you

[@nealanpaulaking9708]

Your projects are totally awsome, and inspire.

[@conniegeerts6572]

Thanks so much! I've been looking for this recipe for quite some time. My profile picture is one of my pieces made with cement and cast glass. It will be great to make my own mix rather than hoping a premix will work properly.

[@dperry428]

Hope you like it!

[@chooqi7]

Once more another great instructional video Mr. Perry. Thank you for taking the time as I'm sure it took you twice the time to prepare behind the scenes as it took to shoot it. And if you're an old ox like me you will pay no nevermind to my advice but please sir do take extra care with these dust particles as they are extremely poisonous especially the PC. Godspeed.

[@dperry428]

If you listen carefully, you'll hear the double fans in the background blowing the dust away from me and out the garage door.

[@racheldove748]

This is extremely helpful, thank you for taking the time and energy to share this with us.

[@dperry428]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Seabird0904]

I can't wait to try this mix! It seems like exactly what I've been trying to make - concrete that will stick to the underside of a project. Thank you for all your great instructions!

[@dperry428]

The real trick is to take your time about adding liquid. Start with half the volume of liquid as cement volume, add small amounts, completely mixing the added liquid before adding any more. When it reaches the exact consistency you want, keep kneading it for a couple minutes. Add a tiny amount more if needed to maintain consistency. As you use it, wet gloves and repeated kneading will keep it workable. The wet gloves also keep the mix from sticking to the gloves and wanting to pull off the underside when it's applied. It is also helpful to take it out of the bucket and put it on a board to allow heat of hydration to dissipate so it doesn't set up too fast.

[@Seabird0904]

dperry428 Thanks for the tips! I'll get over to my local masonry supply this week and get the metakaolin and acrylic polymer I need. I've been using hypertufa-type recipes to cast and sculpt some planters and garden ornaments, but I was getting frustrated that I can't sculpt with it the way I really want to. From your demonstration with sculpting it over the armature, it seems this is going to let me try some new things, like maybe a standing animal figure. So inspired now! 😃

[@dperry428]

In my usage, I want maximum strength. For sculptures, if you want an even easier mix to surround an armature, replace all or some of the sand with a lighweight aggregate. The resulting lighter mix will be less likely to fall off the armature because of it weight. If you can find a source of fine perlite (the stuff sold in garden centers as a soil amendment) or a source of fine pumice, both, being light volcanic rock, will make the mix much lighter while remaining strong.

[@Seabird0904]

dperry428 Oh, I've used perlite in some of my hypertufa recipes, so I have a good supply for experimenting. Thank you for your advice! I like for my sculptures to look old, like something from the grounds of an ancient castle, so I'm also going to try adding a little peat to give it a worn texture and encourage the growth of moss.

[@dperry428]

Just be aware that adding organic peat might affect the chemistry of the mix and make it unworkable. Experiment with a small quantity first. Texture of worn concrete can also be accomplished with a damp sea sponge and a stiff brush. Also, keep in mind that the purpose of hypertufa is to make the concrete porous so that water will drain from planters. Peat will do the same with your sculptures and provide pathways for water to find its way to the metal armature, resulting in corrosion of the reinforcement. That is the single greatest cause of structural concrete deterioration. Water gets to the metal reinforcement and corrodes it. The resulting metal oxides (rust) take up more space than the metal itself and expands against the concrete matrix, causing the concrete to spall, crack and fall apart. Hypertufa techniques do not lend themselves to durable metal-reinforced concrete. I would highly recommend putting on two coats, the first covering the metal without the addition of peat and then a second layer containing the peat-texturing method you propose.

[@brighambaker3381]

Thank you for sharing your mix!! Your work is awesome!

[@sol1799]

What you did is very good! It would be great if you gave the exact brands you use and inexperienced people like me can do it,thank you so much!

[@dperry428]

This is where I buy my additives: concretecountertopsupply.com/?reqp=1&reqr= You want to copy exactly what I mixed? Buy the supplies from them and have them shipped. Usually, it is cheaper to research sources locally and pick them up. Brand names are inconsequential. Portland cement bought at a home improvement store, as well as sand. It doesn't matter where you buy sand and cement. Just buy the finest sand you can get locally OR, buy fine sand from Fishstone concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/SilicaSand4050 Acrylic is also from Fishstone concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/KongKrete-Acrylic-Polymer-GFRC

[@robbunch4711]

Thank you for sharing the knowledge.

[@dperry428]

My pleasure!

[@anandi483]

So hard to get the concrete additives in Canada .

[@dperry428]

You're not trying very hard. The only additives I'm using in this video are metakaolin and acrylic bonding agent/admix. Metakaolin is produced from kaolin clay, which is mined in Canada and metakaolin is produced in Canada. Contact this company for local sources or distributors: www.whitemudresources.com/ Do a simple search for home improvement stores in Canada. If they have concrete products, they have acrylics. There are Lowes and Home Depot stores in Canada.

[@angelamyluv3757]

Sir could you please let me know all rhe ingredents you have there.like what is the white liquid.where do i get the cement without rocks.i ordered the metakaolin shoukd be in in a few days.every bit of my cement pots are falling apart.ugh

[@dperry428]

You might like to watch this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/m6W2iKh4fsiXkMU It has a detailed explanation of the ingredients. Cement is the glue that holds concrete together. Concrete is the mix of aggregates (sand and/or gravel), additives cement and water. The white liquid acrylic bonding agent/admix. Cement can be purchased at home improvement stores and is labeled "Portland Cement". Carefully watch how much liquid you add to your mixes. Too much water makes for very weak concrete.

[@Jan-yz6pl]

Also, thanks for your videos, they are very helpful.

[@ghaithnassrullah8432]

Thank you so much for this interesting video. But I wonder what is the specification of this acrylic admixture you have used. What is the name of it exactly? Because I would like to purchase it

[@dperry428]

Acrylic bonding agent/ admix. There are dozens of brands. Look here: www.google.com/search?source=univ&tbm=isch&q=acrylic+admix+bonding+agent+brands&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjNu6Hdh-XxAhWG_54KHdzUCdMQjJkEegQIHRAC&biw=1507&bih=678&dpr=1.25

[@ghaithnassrullah8432]

@@dperry428 thank you so much for your reply. I will use this. It will be okay right? www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiKv_iqqOzxAhXMBQYAHX3MBrUYABAEGgJ3cw&ae=2&sig=AOD64_1pCWlt8jRgT1i_-bqA0Prx5wmpag&adurl&ctype=5&ved=2ahUKEwjWxO2qqOzxAhVQLxoKHTlqDDEQwg96BAgBEDM&dct=1

[@blancaavilez6427]

Hello there Mr. Perry.... so I've watched your video more than once and I do have one question. In your descriptors of your video you mention acrylic mix and maybe I just missed it on your video but I didn't see where you added this component and if you did; can you tell me how many minutes into the video you demonstrated or can you just let me know how much to add and what product do you recommend or even if it's necessary. I really appreciate it and I'm grateful you have shared.

[@dperry428]

The acrylic is a liquid and is added to the water. I use a product from Fishstone concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/KongKrete-Acrylic-Polymer-GFRC It is 50% solids, so I dilute it 3 water to 1 acryllic. You can buy acrylic, such as Quikrete's Acrylic Fortifier at Lowes and other home improvement stores. Home Depot carries a product from Sika that should not be diluted more than 1 water to 1 acrylic. Watch this part of the video kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2XNZqSdg6uEe5I and note the on-screen caption.

[@kareneicher2306]

What is the project you are working on in this video ? Is it finished now ? Are there additional videos of the finished thing ? This is very enjoyable to watch !

[@dperry428]

I was working on the final coat of my pond bridge project. It has not been completely finished due to a hip problem I am having. (It will be replaced on Feb 16th). The project can be seen in the videos in this playlist kzbin.info/www/bejne/pYjCZ3ijmbhmoJo

[@dperry428]

After 2 years and 3 surgeries, I've finally finished the bridge. Here's the final video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJWQZ3yNnsZjg9U

[@jenniferchristenson4200]

So much respect to you for still being able to use your knees like that! I'm jealous. Anyway thank you so much for this amazing idea!

[@dperry428]

Just had the right knee replaced in December.

[@melanyrunyan7982]

This is fantastic! Thank you so much for teaching us this.

[@dperry428]

My pleasure!

[@hollandknudsen4536]

Where can I find metakaolin powder?

[@dperry428]

Here's where I get mine concretecountertopsupply.com/metakaolin-40lb-bag/ They ship. Other sources will depend upon where you live. I suggest you go here and contact them for distributors near you. www.metakaolin.com/

[@ODobro777]

Thank you so much for this video, what is the working time of this mixture ? And is there a way to extend the working time?

[@dperry428]

Working time will depend on atmospheric conditions. Warmer temperatures speeds things up, cooler slows them down. At room temperature, I have several hours before final set. The addition of tiny amounts of sugar will slow things down (1/10th of 1 percent or less of the weight of cement). Too much sugar will prevent setting at all. One can also add ice bags to the liquid used. Cold water will slow setting. Citric acid will also slow setting, as well as increase compressive strength. 15/100ths % of the weight of cement is the optimum.

[@1515patrick]

Very nice recipe. Thanks for sharing.

[@awomer]

What did you add to the water to make it white? Paint?

[@dperry428]

As it said in the text displayed in the video, "Liquid is 3 parts water to 1 part acrylic admix that is 50% solids". Acrylic admix/bonding agent is white.

[@billie869]

And thanks for the link to fishstone. 👍 Lots to look at

[@dperry428]

You're welcome. It's a great company to deal with.

[@why6246]

Hi! So impressed with your creativity! Was wondering how long you have to work with that mix before it starts to dry and become too stiff? Have you ever worked with superplasticizers? I've heard a few drops will make the mix "wet" again.

[@dperry428]

Working time is highly variable, depending on temperature, humidity, wind, sun or shade. Under normal conditions, at least a couple of hours. Want to extend working time? Add ice bags to the liquid. Remove the mix from the bucket and spread it out on plastic to dissipate heat of reaction. Add small amount (less than 1/10th of one percent) sugar or molasses. Using plasticizers in this mix would be counterproductive. This mix is used for vertical application and sculpting. Superplasticizer would result in the mix sagging, slumping or running. Superplasticizer will also work over a short period of time and the mix will stiffen quickly. Redosing with it will result in faster restiffening. Further, superplasticizer will result in lowered freeze/thaw resistance. Superplasticizer is meant to be used to make concrete with less water and have it flow easily and self-consolidate.

[@why6246]

@@dperry428 Wow, thanks- you are a wealth of knowledge!

[@ruchikavarma1892]

Hello sir This video is extremely helpful for us. Who need such knowledge. Thanks a lot for sharing this video. Regards.

[@eileenbrodie7686]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and recipe. The consistency with the Metakaolin looks ideal for sculpting and is exactly what I was researching. A note about handling dry powders, especially ones with silica related ingredients, but also the Metakaolin and the cement: inhaling these fine dusts is so very harmful to the lungs. Each maker can do as they like, but for your other readers, may I suggest that if you value the ability to breath effectively into later years, wear a dust mask, and make an effort not to ‘poof’ the dry ingredients into a cloud around yourself as you work. But even the finest mist of these powders is harmful. Here in the U.S. family physicians routinely ask patients “Do you have exposure to coal dust/suffer from Black Lung disease”? They ask that because the fullness of time around coal dust has shown the known debilitating harms from coal dust; and there is a program to compensate such workers. It’s only a matter of time before silicosis sufferers join that unfortunate club, for which any compensation is little comfort--needing oxygen and being unable to exert yourself is a terrible consequence.

[@dperry428]

Please note that the dust does not come up from the bucket but is blown laterally out the garage since there is a floor fan blowing dust away. Also, keep in mind that silica, such as in silica sand and silica fume are not the same thing and do not pose the same risks, though dust of any kind should be avoided. Silica is crystalline and silica fume is amorphous. Silica fume poses its own risks, but research indicates it is not associated with the cancer risks of crystalline silica. Metakaolin is made from kaolin clay and contains about 6% silica. Like all dust, inhalation should be avoided.

[@cndbrn7975]

Probably the best looking portland/clay mix i've seen on youtube. Was that hydrated lime you added?

[@dperry428]

No, it's metakaolin.

[@Engelhafen]

Great consistency

[@Schwob94]

I was looking for a concrete mix that would be able to be hand pressed into silicone molds that I am making for some hollow artificial rock shells, and it seems like your recipe might work very well! My only concern is how strong the shells will be on the chance that someone decides to step on the rock once it's out in the garden. I may have to modify the recipe a bit to increase strength. I did not notice your suggestion in the description right away and scoured the internet looking for a source for the metakaolin and had a difficult time. Luckily I came back to the video and noticed the reference to Fishstone. I live only about 25 minutes away from them! I will definitely be looking into placing an order with them soon as they also sell pigments and fibers, other supplies I was also having trouble locating a retailer for.

[@dperry428]

This particular recipe I use for final coats to sculpt and create textures. For greater structural strength, check out this video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/m6W2iKh4fsiXkMU Fishstone is a great company to work with. Tom and Carrie are the owners and can be great assistance to you in meeting your needs. I've learned a great deal from them. Call ahead to get supplies. They are usually too busy to handle straight walk-ins.

[@Schwob94]

@@dperry428 Great, thank you so much! I will give them a call tomorrow. Maybe they'd be able to offer some advice and product recommendations on my specific project as well.

[@dperry428]

Tell them I said hello. BTW, I'm in Genoa, IL

[@estherV4N3V9]

Just what I have been looking for! It looks like a great media to work with, then carve, without having to fire the final product. I imagine one could cast with this material as well. I will try this with small quantities. I didn't understand the name of the ...... fibre to add. Also, would have loved to have seen the finished/carved project. Thank you for this video!

[@dperry428]

PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) fiber concretecountertopsupply.com/pva-fibers/ I use this mix for undersides of sculpting. Increase to 1 sand to 1 cement for normal sculpting. For casting, I change the mix to 2 or 3 sand to 1 cement, reduce the metakaolin to 10%, add 8% silica fume. You might also like to add superplasticizer when using molds. This video shows me finishing the bridge project with a 1 sand to 1 cement mix. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJWQZ3yNnsZjg9U

[@estherV4N3V9]

@@dperry428 thank you!

[@jperlitz]

Thank you! So helpful. Do you think this could work (and not crack) applied directly over a carved styrofoam sculpture without having a chicken wire/mesh layer?

[@dperry428]

PVA fiber will go a long way to help with preventing cracks. I'd first make a slurry of the mix and scrub it on the styrofoam with a brush and then cover with the mix. That will assure a good bond. Also, increasing the amount of acrylic helps prevent cracks.

[@jperlitz]

@@dperry428 Thank you, thank you! I'm going to try it.

[@angelamyluv3757]

This exactly what i was looking for.just wish you would have been more in depth about what the produces used were and where we as viewers could get them.thanks for the video.im trying to make some outside yard art and needing something i xan shape with My hands but not have to put in oven or kiln

[@dperry428]

This video explains the ingredients other than silica fume. kzbin.info/www/bejne/m6W2iKh4fsiXkMU My supplier is Fishstone concretecountertopsupply.com/

[@ddaigle5078]

I purchased SikaLatex R bonding agent from Lowes. It works fantastic. I'm moving forward with my project on such a happy note now. Thank you!

[@dperry428]

Just don't dilute it more than 1 to 1 with water. It has a much lower solids content than what I use. I'd bet the problem you had with the dry stuff is a matter of knowing how to dissolve it in water. Kind of like making gravy. Add the flour too quickly and you get lumpy gravy. Good luck. I hope the mix works well for you.

[@ddaigle5078]

@@dperry428 Thank you! This information will help me a lot. I had mixed 1 part acrylic to 2 parts water .I will take your advise moving forward. So far so good. I'm loving my project. If interested my project is 30'wide by 4' high rock wall with a rock wall waterfall that will be about 10'w up to 8' tall at the end. Thanks again.

[@dperry428]

Please post a video of you progress. I'd like to see what you are doing.

[@shelleyhuth9018]

is this bonding agent added instead of fibers or metakolin?

[@dperry428]

No, it's in addition to fiber and metakaolin.

[@ToussaintR]

This is a wonderful video. I can’t thank you enough. May I ask: why do you use the two layers of chicken wire and concrete? Is one layer not stable enough?

[@dperry428]

It's a construction concept known as ferrocement, sometimes referred to as thin-wall construction. The combination of cementitious mix along with multiple layers of fine wire, mesh and/or metal rod, produces a very strong structural element. Third world countries have been using ferrocement for the construction of water tanks for many years. In fact, during World War Two, ships were constructed of ferrocement. For more information: ferrocement.net/

[@ToussaintR]

@@dperry428 Thanks for the thoughtful response!

[@jedallen1157]

Hello I would like to thank you for all the knowledge you have given (been watching and taking notes ) ordered a lot and started on a set of steps had a question about Sourcing xypex also when making a 3/sand to 1/cement or 2 to1 how much liquid to mix in as a starting point I think I overdid it Any way to fix that Thanks a lot I really appreciate you

[@dperry428]

I always start with about half the volume in liquid as I added in portland cement. So, if my mix contains 10 cups of cement, I start with 5 cups of liquid and slowly add as needed, mixing very thoroughly before adding more. That way, you never end up with soup.

[@dperry428]

Sorry, forgot to tell you about Xypex. That is only the name of one brand of crystalline waterproofer. Here are some more to look for besides Xypex: Penetron, Kryton Krystol, Vandex, Cristalproof, Aquafin, Greenseal, Cemcoat CW Plus, Incap, Contite. There are likely many more. If you go to a manufacturer's site, the usually have a link to find distributor's of their product.

[@shanafashyaana1]

You are really inspiring sir!!

[@thelordschurchfarmandranch6694]

Would this mix hold up in a clay stove application? It would be helpful to have the recipe in the description. Thanks for this idea. I was Iooking at aircrete for my stoves and this caught my attention.

[@dperry428]

I don't know what a clay stove is. If it involves high heat, I would look for a recipe that is specific to high heat applications. I've no experience using concrete for that application, so I can't be much help.

[@thelordschurchfarmandranch6694]

@@dperry428 Thanks friend. It does involve heat. I guess I wiII just have to use clay! Thanks for the quick response.

[@Axel103Axel]

@@thelordschurchfarmandranch6694 ad fire clay to the mix

[@irrelevantfish1978]

Portland cement starts to dehydrate and turn crumbly at about 300C, so if you omit the PVA fiber (or use glass/carbon/basalt fiber) and keep the temps below that, you'll be fine. If you go over, then you'll need something with no Portland cement at all. Were I you, I'd experiment with metakaolin geopolymer cement. The stuff sets fast and has to be mixed precisely (you should measure by weight, not volume) but it survives well past 750C. You can make it by THOROUGHLY mixing metakaolin (substitute

[@retolop]

Please sir can you tell me what was the white powder that you added after the sand and cement . Is it necessary ? Best regards Iraq - Baghdad

[@dperry428]

Metakaolin. Absolutely it is necessary -- that's the whole point of the video.

[@beeboonunn137]

How long can you work with the cement before it starts to “ set up?”.. Thank you for your generosity in sharing your skill.

[@dperry428]

Depends on temperature. When it's hot outside, it starts to stiffen in a few minutes. Kneading it gets it more workable again. You can also wet the gloves and knead it and it gets very workable again. Otherwise, in cooler weather I can work with it for at least an hour or more. Even then, it might not be completely unworkable. I can still texture it with tools. It sets enough to be rainproof in a couple of hours.

[@heidirogers3145]

Exactly my question! Thank you so much!

[@robbunch4711]

Thanks for this information. I have used this mix and it works great. I apologize if I missed info on your mix for making a vertical mix that has very little slump. What mix do you recommend for making a light fluffy vertical mix? Thanks

[@dperry428]

Depends on what strength and durability you want. Lightweight concrete gives up strength for lighter weight. Generally, as in my fence, I used 3 sand to 1 cement for a base coat and 1 or 2 sand to 1 cement for overlying faux rock. If you want lightweight, substitute perlite or vermiculite for some or all of the sand, again depending on how light you want it. For example, you might have 1 part sand, 1 part perlite and 1 part cement. Remember that in a finish coat, it will be hard to hide the lightweight aggregate. You might have to go over with a final thin coat of sand/cement to cover the lightweight aggregate. I don't think I would consider any mixes as "fluffy" except maybe foamed concrete (aircrete), but I wouldn't even consider its use as it is very low strength. At any rate, I would still include metakaolin, silica fume, acrylic and fiber to increase density an eliminate porosity.

[@dperry428]

Forgot to add that it is critical that you add liquid very carefully and slowly. Just a small amount too much and you go from a mix that stays put and one that runs or falls off the vertical surface. Mixing technique is most important, no matter the mix.

[@artsandcraftchica]

Hello sir, thank you so much for this video. My question is, what happens if we can’t find Portland cement, is there a substitute? All I find is Portland cement limestone. Your advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[@dperry428]

You mean limestone portland cement. That's portland cement. Limestone is calcium carbonate. When it ground up and strongly heated (calcined), it releases carbon dioxide. The remaining material is mixed with other ingredients such as gypsum and forms a clinker that is then ground up and is then called portland cement. Since the production of cement produces carbon dioxide, the "climate change" fanatics have convinced the cement industry that it needs to reduce the amount of carbon dioxide, the industry is now replacing part of the actual cement with 10 % uncalcined, ground limestone. So, the portland cement is now 90% portland and 10% limestone and the name is changed from portland cement to limestone portland cement. It is claimed to be "as good" as the older product, but I say, "BS". I alter my mix now to consider the ground limestone as if it were sand. I add 10% more of the "limestone portland" and 10% LESS sand to my mixes to compensate for the insanity of those who actually believe that our climate changes are an existential threat to our planet. They are nuts, but we have to live with the results of political BS.

[@elcreadorkuantico3626]

Te saludo maestro...gracias por compartir la sabiduría adquirida a través de tu experiencia...Mucha salud para ti y los tuyos.

[@dperry428]

Gracias

[@umasobservations]

Thank you! I appreciate all your answers.

[@brondiben-yosef1312]

You wrote some time ago about the concrete mix that acts like clay: "Even though I've shown in other videos how to make this mix, ". Could you provide a link to that video? I sure would appreciate it.

[@dperry428]

You're making your comment on the video that does just that.

[@Ycrt638]

Hi, thanks for this video., it's absolutely what i'm looking for :). A question : what is acrylic bonding ? glue ? is for this reason the water is white ? Thanks

[@dperry428]

The acrylic is a liquid and is added to the water. I use a product from Fishstone concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/KongKrete-Acrylic-Polymer-GFRC It is 50% solids, so I dilute it 3 water to 1 acryllic. You can buy acrylic, such as Quikrete's Acrylic Fortifier at Lowes and other home improvement stores. Home Depot carries a product from Sika that should not be diluted more than 1 water to 1 acrylic. Watch this part of the video kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2XNZqSdg6uEe5I and note the on-screen caption

[@milarepa1234567]

Wonderful, thank you sir!

[@jeffytodd4261]

Would this work for vertical stamp concrete different parties trying to sell a product called true pack but you don't tell you to mix

[@dperry428]

I use this specific mix for the underside of constructions, like the undersides of railings on my bridge. I use a different mix for vertical work like my fence. I don't do stamping, so I can't address that. I have never used Tru Pac additives. I don't like to use things that contain "proprietary" substances. If I don't know what's in it, I don't use it. I don't understand the last part of your comment/question "but you don't tell you to mix".

[@katella]

I have a different type of question. What type of glove are you using? In the past working with concrete I've had gloves that were too thin and would tear or others that were too thick and bulky. 🤷🏽

[@dperry428]

Nitrile. You can buy them in thickness of 8 mil. They hold up much better than the typical 4 mil.

[@katella]

@dperry428 thank you for the advice and response. 🌻

[@LucasJXKolasa]

Not sure if i missed it, but ... what is the working time on this? And thanks !! You just opened up a whole new world of possibilities for me. Your experience is excellent and i thank you for the education.

[@dperry428]

Working time is highly variable, depending on temperature, humidity, wind, sun or shade. Under normal conditions, at least a couple of hours. Want to extend working time? Add ice bags to the liquid. Remove the mix from the bucket and spread it out on plastic to dissipate heat of reaction. Add small amount (less than 1/10th of one percent) sugar or molasses.

[@yoginurseprovost8982]

I am restoring a cement deer yard statue. 1 leg needs replacement all that is left is the rebar. I am wondering if I need to add a cement bonding adhesive to the basic recipe. I am using metakaolin and fiber?!

[@dperry428]

The white liquid in the water I used was acrylic admix/bonding agent. For your repair, tightly wrap chicken wire around the rebar, put bonding agent on the broken concrete and in the mix and squeeze it into the chicken wire and around the rebar. It will then be a very strong repair.

[@yoginurseprovost8982]

Thank you! Videos are perfect!

[@MickFutz]

Granted, working time is variable on environmental conditions, but can you give an example of your experience of how long it was workable for you? Your environment, etc. Thank you in advance for your time. Awesome info!

[@dperry428]

You may not like the answer, but I'll say it again; it depends on environmental conditions. On a very hot day in the 90's, I had to use ice to cool the water, shade the area and work quickly. On those days, initial set could be less than an hour. When the temperatures were in the 60's, cloudy and not windy, I had several hours to work and would still hope it was setup before dark so that raccoons and kids couldn't mess with it. I learned quickly that high temperatures, wind and sun were the enemies of working time and flash setup was a real possibility. On those days, I compensated by using ice bags in the water and working under a patio umbrella. That's also a time to use set retarders such as citric acid, sugar or molasses. I don't like chemical retarders as it's very easy to use too much and end up with a mix that won't set at all. Lots of working time, then.

[@howtowithelizabeth7513]

I also wonder if this would work for doing ceramics on a pottery wheel

[@dperry428]

First, it's not ceramic clay; it's concrete. As far as using it on a pottery wheel, I have no experience with that. If you try it, let me know how it works.

[@aleceyeful]

I love watching your videos and have a question about the Acryl additive you use. I have seen you apply it to already dry parts of your projects that you are adding new material too in order to help bond the old with the new. It seems in this video that it must play a part in getting that clay-like consistency. Let me know if I have this correct. Are there other reasons why you would use Acryl in a mix? Thank you for all of your instruction.

[@dperry428]

The acrylic is known as acrylic bonding agent and admix. I use it as an additive to every concrete mix I make. It is an emulsion of 50% solids that I buy in 5 gallon buckets. It can be used undiluted as a bonding agent to make new concrete bond to old concrete or it can be used diluted with water to use as an additive in concrete mixes, where it increases the strength of the concrete, increases the bonding strength, increases the workability of the concrete and helps make concrete less permeable to water. I mix the 50% solids at 1 part acrylic to 3 parts water and wouldn't think of making concrete without it. To make a mix even more like clay, the dilution can be reduced to 1 part acrylic to 2 parts water or to 1 to 1. The only problem with using higher concentrations is it will interfere with coloring the concrete with acid stains. Acrylic for concrete can be purchased at home improvement stores but most of it is about 25% solids, so a normal dilution of 1 acrylic to 2 water is maximum dilution.

[@Mom4life.]

Thank you so much. I love your work.

[@dperry428]

Glad you enjoy it!

[@heatherjane0808]

Was also wondering if you have a papercrete recipe? Clay like to hand build large posts yet light weight to move around easily enough? 🤷🏼‍♀️🤔

[@dperry428]

I don't use papercrete; don't like the fact that the cellulose fiber in paper is organic and subject to decomposition, much as leaves in a compost heap. To make lightweight concrete, I substitute vermiculite or perlite for some or all of the sand. Remember, though, that the lighter you make it, the weaker the mix will be. You substitute weight for strength.

[@heatherjane0808]

@@dperry428 Amazing thank you - yes you’re 100% right

[@walterbeasley9139]

I just want ti say rhank you, and ask if you know if this recipe will work with white cement?

[@dperry428]

I don't know as I've not used white cement. Here's an article that might help you. www.civilgiant.com/white-portland-cement/

[@yingle6027]

Could I use hydrated lime instead of metakaolin? Thanks for your video

[@dperry428]

Sure, but then you'll just have mortar. Lots easier to just go buy a bag of mortar. Mortar will not give you the same mix as in this video.

[@yingle6027]

@@dperry428 Ok, I'm struggling to find met where I live, might have to order some.

[@dperry428]

Look for some brand names: usa.sika.com/en/construction-products/concrete/concrete-admixtures/durability-enhancement/metakaolin/sikacrete-m-100.html concretecountertopsupply.com/metakaolin-40lb-bag/ Contact these people and ask for distributors: www.metakaolin.com/

[@heatherjane0808]

Absolutely wonder video!! Thank you so much - dumb question but what is the 5 cups liquid (3 parts water & 1 part admix) What did you use as measurements? Super excited to try this out!

[@dperry428]

I make up a bucket of liquid made up of 1 part acrylic to 3 parts water. The measurement device is meaningless. I use a yogurt container and fill it 1 time with acrylic and 3 times with water. You could use anything, just so you fill it three times with water for each time you fill it with acrylic. Once mixed, it is the liquid I use. The container I use to make the mix is a yogurt container that just happens to hold 5 cups. I also use a 1 cup measuring cup for other ingredients.

[@heatherjane0808]

@@dperry428 Aaaaah!! You’re a genius - thank you so much ❤️

[@muhammadsiddiqui1689]

I always watched your videos and like them. What is the liquid contains other than water? I am planning to resurface my 30 year old patio and thinking if I can create a mix myself rather than buying the QUIKRETE Concrete Resurfacer. What should be the good ratio of play sand, portland cement and water for that resurfacer mix? Should I apply Quikrete Concrete Bonding Adhesive on my old concrete before applying the mix? Also, is 1/16 thicknes going to be ok or should I apply 1/8?

[@dperry428]

The liquid I mix with water is acrylic bonding agent/admix. The brand I am using is KongKrete from Fishstone. Quikrete's brand is Quikrete Acrylic Concrete Fortifier. Were I resurfacing a patio, I'd use the bonding agent on the old surface as well as add acrylic to the mix water. I am not a concrete expert or contractor, but my advice would be to use the mix made for resurfacing and follow the manufacturer's recommendation as to the thickness of application. I resurfaced my concrete front porch about 9 years ago with my own mix with a thickness that varied, to level the surface, from 1/8th inch to slightly more than 1 inch. I prepped the surface with the same acrylic undiluted as I used in the mix liquid diluted 3 water to 1 acrylic.

[@ConcreteLand]

Muhammad Siddiqui mr Perry is correct. Apply a bonding agent to the surface 24 hours before you plan on pouring then again just before you pour. When you can walk on it without it lifting up you are ready to pour. The moisture in the concrete will reactivate the adhesive. If you stop or in a hot location (direct sun light) you will need to reapply.

[@GingerKral]

Thank you! Once a teacher.......... Is this a fence structure? I think it's been a while since we've had a tour of your projects!

[@dperry428]

This is the railing on my bridge project that I started last fall. I've got the structural coats done on the bridge and I'll be starting the finish coat and texturing to make it look like wood. I am putting on a safety railing on the bridge approach and that's what is in the video.

[@majdghanem201]

Thanx very much but what is the third material after sand and cement ?! The white powder ..

[@dperry428]

Metakaolin

[@josephswenson129]

questions, what is the working time with this mixture? you talk about carving, does that mean it does not become as hard as concrete and how does it withstand the weather? meaning rain, snow tempteratues in the single numbers, and so on.

[@dperry428]

Working time for this mix, like any concrete mix, depends on many variables, such as temperature, humidity, wind conditions and exposure to direct sunlight. Set time can be controlled with the use of cold water or even ice in the mix to delay set, as well as addition of retarding agents, such as sugar. You can speed set time by using hot water or an accelerator such as calcium chloride. I didn't talk about "carving" except in reference to a commercial "carving mix" that I was going to try in the future. Regardless, concrete hardens in several stages, including initial set and final set, during which concrete loses its plasticity and begins hardening. It then continues to harden over a period of approximately a month. I texture the surface of the mix before, during and after initial set. If additional texturing becomes necessary, one actually can carve it like very soft stone. As it continues to harden, techniques used in sculpturing hard stone need to be employed, such as grinding or chipping. Once this mix sets, it is very dense and very hard. As hard as concrete? Yes, because it IS concrete. I live in northern Illinois. We have extreme temperature changes from 100 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer to -25 degrees in the winter. Because of its density, it is very resistant to water penetration, resistant to freeze/thaw cycles and far more durable than regular concrete mixes.

[@msart000]

Could you please tell us whats the strength on this mix..?? I wanted to do some thing sculpture s.. Any suggestions?. Thanks to the great video

[@dperry428]

I don't know the strength of this particular mix. I use it for finishing layers where I want fine detail. It is not a structural mix, though I would increase the amount of sand to 1 part to 1part cement and reduce the metakaolin to 10% instead of 20% to make the mix more structural for base layer of sculptural pieces. When I'm doing something such as the bridge I made, where I need real structural strength, I'd use 2 or 3 parts sand to 1 part cement, add some CSA cement and some silica fume as well. That makes a very strong mix of 15K to 20K psi.

[@treacyziegler1343]

Can you use instead of meta kaolin -Mullite which I understand is a high heat processed metakaolin.? I use it as the base for slurry in creating shells over wax in bronze casting. I happen to have a lot of it and thought maybe I could substitute it in this concrete clay formula.

[@dperry428]

I don't know. Never heard of it, but having just spent a bit of time reading about it, it is made from kaolin clay, as is metakaolin, but heated to a much higher temperature, changing the initial metakaolin into mullite. Metakaolin is amorphous and exhibits certain characteristics as a result. Mullite is the opposite and is crystalline and would, therefore, exhibit entirely different characteristics. The only suggestion I can make is to try making a mix with it and see what it does. I'd bet it would be much different in its effect on the mix than does metakaolin.

[@paulinehunt4069]

What is the thinnest application I can use. Trying to resurface a clay pot and needing to keep shape and be strong. It has a special stand and I cannot find another. Trying to resurface out side of existing pot and will use indoors. Have never heard of some of the ingredients and hate talk of percentages. Like 5 cups this 10 cups of that. This mixture sounds like it has properties of product called Pal Tiya. Very expensive stuff, also thickness sensative. Writing down your recipie and going shopping. Thank you for your video.

[@dperry428]

I don't know how thin you can go. If you use an initial coat of acrylic bonding agent (the white liquid), you should be able to actually paint on a layer. Can't help you with amounts other than percentages.

[@ddaigle5078]

I will look into that. Thank you soooo much.

[@heyho6728]

Could I ask you write down the ingredents and ratios you use? It the best looking mix I've seen!

[@dperry428]

Fine sand, portland cement, metakaolin, acrylic admix/bonding agent. Proportions explained in the first part of the video.

[@heyho6728]

@@dperry428 Thank you for the very quick reply. Just spent over an an hour looking for metakaolin in the UK, no chance unless you order insustrial quantitites and to import it is so expensive. I'm hoping kaolin will do the job. It's trial and error when you're trying to create something.

[@dperry428]

Exactly! I"ve spent 14 years developing what now works for me. You might like to try fly ash, if it's still available in the UK. It's not as good as metakaolin, but should work. Kaolin and metakaolin are as different as limestone and cement. Cement is essentially calcined limestone and metakaolin is calcined kaolin.

[@dperry428]

Try here: www.moertelshop.eu/buy-metamax-metakaolin-white-cheaply

[@dperry428]

Also: cornishlime.co.uk/argical-m1000

[@susangoh6551]

Thank you so much...I want to create a wall art, embedding object in it, partially exposed (meant for interior), in your opinion do you think this mix will work. Being a LOL(little old lady). Instead of chicken wire I hope to find some reinforcing fiber mesh instead, will this affect anything. Also do you think there is any reaction ‘chemicals “ if I embed fabrics....for instant the fabric might rot or something...being new at this I have so many silly questions and I appreciate your time and expertise. Cheers!

[@dperry428]

Sure you can use reinforcing fiber mesh. Here's the perfect stuff to use: concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/ARScrimNetByFoot People make all kinds of things with fabrics and concrete -- not a problem. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bZ6TZYmbf92aY6s www.pinterest.com/pin/27795722676894833/

[@susangoh6551]

Thank you, still watching your videos...over and over and over. So informative. You Rock!

[@bethshanwright3960]

I’d like to use this for jewelry pieces, could I eliminate the sand? I don’t want that texture in the jewelry.

[@dperry428]

You can certainly try it. The late Donald Tucker, renowned concrete artist used neap cement to create the finish coats on his faux bois pieces. The problem with using no sand is that it is prone to cracking if not cured properly. I'd try increasing the concentration of acrylic in the mix and, after initial set so that there is no chance of marking the finished piece, wrap it in saran to keep it moist for a week. After a day or two, unwrap the piece, spray with a mist of water and rewrap with saran or plastic sheet. After a week, if the pieces are small, as I assume jewelry would be, you can submerge the piece in water for another week. This will ensure curing with no shrinkage cracks.

[@bethshanwright3960]

I found a craft sand that is so fine it’s a powder. I’ll try that first. Thank you so much!

[@dperry428]

I've also heard others use marble dust, obtained from places that cut marble counter tops.

[@jorgeanaya3899]

Thank you-video is verily instructive, I am sculptor and try different materials, and this is very helpful, which is the working time ?

[@dperry428]

dperry428 1 month ago Working time is highly variable, depending on temperature, humidity, wind, sun or shade. Under normal conditions, at least a couple of hours. Want to extend working time? Add ice bags to the liquid. Remove the mix from the bucket and spread it out on plastic to dissipate heat of reaction. Add small amount (less than 1/10th of one percent) sugar or molasses.

[@jorgeanaya3899]

dperry428 thank you for your fast response congratulation you’re a hard worker, I feel inspired by your work muchas gracias

[@empros2331]

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I cannot seem to find a supplier of PVA fiber, can I substitute with any other type of fibers such as polypropylene? Which would be the best substitute?

[@dperry428]

concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/PVA_6mm Yes, you can use other types of fiber. The first fibers I used were polypropylene. I found them difficult to disperse in the mix. They tended to clump. concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/AR_Glass_Fiber Glass fiber should be alkali resistant. Some people have told me they have chopped up fiberglass insulation and used it. That is NOT a good idea as it is not AR glass and will deteriorate with time and you've then lost the value of the fiber. Though I've never used them, there is nylon fiber, basalt fiber, steel fiber, and others. I like the PVA because it does not show in the finished surface. You can also find fiber on Amazon and ebay.

[@bernicewood5124]

Thank you so much. I thought that might be what needed to be done.. Feel much more confident tackling the job. What a nice thing you do. Sincerely, Bernice, Napanee, Ontario

[@danielrinaldi3737]

Hello again master....... if i wanna make a 39.5inch x 55inch x 1.25inch for my little kid shower floor.... did you can recommend me some mix preparation? i read about use white concrete with marble dust and acrylic polimer... what do you think? always thank you for share your knowlage

[@dperry428]

39.5" x 55"x 1.25" = 2715.625 cubic inches. There are 12 x 12 x12 or 1728 cubic inches in a cubic foot. so 2715.625 cubic inches = 2715/1728 = 1.57... cubic feet. A 60 lb bag of premixed concrete makes about .45 cu ft. of concrete. An 80 lb bag of premix makes about .6 cu ft. So the volume of mix you need is somewhere between the equivalent of three 60 lb bags and three 80 lb bag. of commercial premix. If I were doing your project, I'd want a mix that was as waterproof as possible. Were I mixing my own, I'd use 3 sand to 1 cement, with additional ingredients of 10% of the cement content in metakaolin and 10% of the cement content in silica fume and using acrylic in the liquid. I don't know about marble dust as I've never used it.

[@danielrinaldi3737]

You're the master!!!!! really amazing person! Thanks@@dperry428

[@edh_alters7116]

Very informative video thank you. I was wondering what the metakaolin does and if it could be replaced with something else? Thanks.

[@dperry428]

Metakaolin does several things. It is a pozzolan that reacts with by-products of cement hydration to form materials that strengthen the concrete. It's particles are 10 times smaller than cement particles, filling in spaces between the cement particles, a concept known as particle packing, making the concrete much denser and resistant to water infiltration. It also makes the mix creamier and easier to sculpt and work. Metakaolin works for me. You'll have to do you own research and experimentation to determine what else works like it. I'm not an expert in concrete. I know only what I have read and what I have used personally.

[@edh_alters7116]

Thank you very much for your feedback. I actually did some more research after watching and I've heard from others that work with cement that lime can be used instead of metakaolin and is much cheaper and readily available.@@dperry428

[@edh_alters7116]

I'm not discounting your recipe, just here in Nevada we don't have any place around that sells that particular material. Thanks for your help!

[@dperry428]

Be aware that lime is NOT like metakaolin. In fact, it is composed of, initially, calcium oxide, an extremely alkaline substance that is dangerous to handle and, if it gets in your eyes, can cause blindness. If you choose to use it, be extremely cautious in handling it. It will burn skin. Replacing metakaolin with it results in the complete loss of particle packing and the result will be a less dense concrete. Initially, the concrete will also have less strength, though, after time, it will react with carbon dioxide to create calcium carbonate from which the lime was originally produced. The end result is strong, but also prone to produce efflorescence, that nasty-looking white chalky substance that forms on the surface. The greatest source of metakaolin is in British Columbia, Canada, much closer to you than it is to me. You might like to contact these people for distributors near you. www.metakaolin.com/ You will save money using lime, but you will give up most of the benefits of metakaolin.

[@edh_alters7116]

Wow thank you so much for your generous time sir! I really appreciate your knowledge and sharing as it is not commonplace these days. @@dperry428

[@mcart3943]

what can you use instead of the metakaolin? is there another product to replace it?

[@dperry428]

Beats heck out of me; this is the mix I use based on the research I did and what was available to me. I haven't a clue how well other things work as I've not tried them, but I've read of others who say that fly ash, diatomaceous earth or other fine-grained pozzolans have worked for them. All I can suggest is, if you don't want to use metakaolin, do some reading and experiment with what you think will work for you. I'm not the end-all of concrete knowledge. I just know what works for me after reading, researching and experimenting with available materials over a period of 16 years. I might add that if you don't want to use metakaolin, you might try just purchasing one of those "proprietary" mixes that cost outrageous amounts. The sellers, however, will never share what they use.

[@mcart3943]

Thank you! I will try. I searched for metakaolin online but couldnt find anyone selling it in Au

[@dperry428]

Here's some starting information. Looks like it is being imported. www.sydneyconstructionmaterials.com.au/mk_pozzolan.html

[@kak2tnt]

Thank you! Have you seen the tiles that look like wood planks? I bet if this ratio would be perfect to place in a thin silicon mold and make diy wood planks or brick shaped pavers.

[@dperry428]

Yes. Actually, if I were making molded wood tiles, I'd add silica fume to this mix, as well as a super plasticizer to make the mix stronger, self-consolidating and self-leveling. It would, indeed, be strong.

[@kak2tnt]

dperry428 Knowledge through experience is key. You are a pro. I have zero experience with cement. Thank you for your response and advice. I feel like I would like to try to make small batches of planks. Eventually. I could accumulate enough to floor over my concrete patio.

[@glennjones7905]

some yrs back I experimented with a KirtBag mix and a TruePakX mix applied as a walkway 1/4" skim coat. Hand troweled and did some decorative stuff with it. It troweled smooth as butter, and it has held up quite well over the years. Loved it. SO, I'm now thinking of using your mix over rough finished cement flooring as a smooth troweled finish coating, probably 1/4 to 1/2" (rather than ceramic tiles).... Q: might fly-ash be a suitable substitute for metakaolin? Q: the acrylic admixture (milk)... can an acrylic bonding agent (non-re-emulsifiable ) alternately be used ? (I live overseas - there are no Lowes or HDs, and IF I were to find a concrete specialty shop 400km away it would not be practical.)

[@dperry428]

As I'm not a concrete expert, I can only share from my own experience and from what I've read. I have personally never used fly ash, but from what I have read, they are quite different in effect. Read from this site: precast.org/2020/01/a-closer-look-fly-ash-slag-cement-metakaolin/ As for non-reemulsifiable acrylic, I use the product I for both bonding and as an admix. Many are sold as "bonding agent/admix". You just have to know the solids content to know how much to dilute it with water. You want to end up with liquid that is at least 6% solids, preferably more. The stuff I use is 50% solids and I dilute it 3 water to 1 acrylic.

[@rivaladventures3014]

Can this formula be mixed in a truck (large quantity) as a low slump concrete that can be poured and then stacked and carved as it sets?

[@dperry428]

I don't know as I've never done that. I can really only recommend what I've tried myself as I'm NOT an expert in concrete. I know what works for me. What you are describing, though, is the mix and process of One Day Walls kzbin.info/www/bejne/aXibdmV5lJqWnZI I don't know what they put in their mix other than what I can guess, but it looks like a similar approach of no large aggregate, high cement content, likely high fiber and, from one of their videos, I saw them adding buckets of additive that was dark colored, indicating the possibility of their adding molasses as a retardant that allows them to work all day without the mix setting up too quickly. Sugar or molasses is a common additive that slows setting, but it can't be more than about 1/10th of 1 percent of the cement content. Too much and the mix will never harden. What other additives they use is your guess as well as mine. I work in my back yard, strictly alone, and mix only as much as I can hand sculpt in an hour or so. That means I mix no more than about half a five-gallon bucket. Truckloads is a whole other world I can't address.

[@alexfinn7989]

Have you use superplasticizers at all? I imagine that would help to reduce cracking in the sculpture?

[@dperry428]

No, the acrylic and fiber are more than adequate.

[@glhfsport4682]

this is great because i need it to hold its shape for a large inflatable form.

[@ddaigle5078]

Hope you and your family are doing well during this Covid-19. I 'm nearing the end of my project and I would like to know if I need to add Xypex to my mix to make my pond better to handle the water. I will upload a new updated video tomorrow. It can be a real challenge because I don't have a stand to help me with the video. Thank you for your helpful videos. You are a VERY Talented man.

[@dperry428]

It's up to you. Xypex is expensive, but I wish that I had added it to my earliest projects. You can add Xypex admix to the mix at about 2 to 3% of the cement content or you can use Xypex Concentrate as a final coating or you can do both.

[@ddaigle5078]

@@dperry428 Thank you. I will figure this out and let you know what I do in a video when I'm at that point in my project. We are in the process of installing lights right now. The water "mini pond" will be after that.

[@dperry428]

As small as the pond area is going to be, you might find it much more cost effective to just use Thoroseal to waterproof it.

[@katjehansen8760]

Wow, what a great faux bois method and project. Your bridge is superb! You should add #fauxbois to your comments so people can find this method.

[@dperry428]

Thanks for the suggestion. I added it to the tags.

[@kathyf.tzambazakis8636]

Hi there, I am trying to mend two halves, and fill in some missing areas of chunks that broke off, of my cement birdbath pedestal. Any extra advice? Also, I am a bit unsure still about the "acrylic admix" part of this project. You mentioned that Quikrete has a product. I went on HomeDepot.com and found a 1 qt. Acrylic Fortifier by Quikrete. Is this the product to get to add to the water? I could not find the product called acrylic bonding agent which you replied to Sporty a few days ago. TY

[@dperry428]

The Quikrete Acrylic Fortifier is what you can use. I don't know the solids content. Follow their directions for dilution. Home Depot usually also has an acrylic by Sika. As for the birdbath, I drill holes and peg the two halves together with metal rods and glue the two halves together with marine epoxy. Then fill the crack with concrete or put a full new liner of concrete in the bowl. For missing pieces, use acrylic full-strength on the broken part and fill with acrylic concrete.

[@mohammedjas4895]

Hi, how are you? My name is Mohamed from Jordan. I started following you on the page and liked your work very much. I want you to teach me what the cement mixture is if you are generous.

[@dperry428]

Did you watch the video? The recipe is there.

[@mendyashby4730]

Is there any substitutes for meta kaolin and what is the liquid you are using besides water.

[@dperry428]

No. kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2XNZqSdg6uEe5I

[@Hyrekia]

I couldn't find the powdered KongKrete on Fishstones website, but I did find a concrete bonding adhesive that is an acrylic fortifier at Home Depo by Sika Pro Select, I'm wondering if that would work? I also can't seem to find a fine sand anywhere, just all purpose sand, patio paver sand and play sand. If I let play sand dry out would that work or should I stick with the all purpose sand?

[@dperry428]

Sika's products are also like KongKrete, but contain MUCH less solids. It will work fine but, depending on solids content, can't be diluted more than 1 water to 1 acrylic, if not used straight with no dilution. For sand, try other home improvement stores. I buy mine from Lowes. The finer the sand, the better the mix. All purpose sand is OK if you don't need a fine, detailed finish as it contains rather large grains. Play sand is better but not as fined as Quikrete Medium sand. If you need to "dry out the play sand, go elsewhere for you supplies. Play sand should NOT be wet. It comes in plastic bags and should already be dry. If you can find sources other than home improvement stores as I found Fishstone, you can find very fine sands, depending on your needs. Fishstone carries extremely fine sand, but you'll have to find out what shipping charges are, which might be prohibitive. Check your area for suppliers of silica sand, sand-blasting sand, etc.

[@thamara926]

Please list all the ingredients.Thanks .im a new subscriber

[@dperry428]

Sand, portland cement, metakaolin, PVA fiber, acrylic bonding agent/admix.

[@sol1799]

dperry428 acrylic bonding plus admix?

[@dperry428]

@@sol1799 The acrylic is marketed as bonding agent and/or admix.

[@Dkokay]

Is "fortifier" better than the "bonding" liquid, both from the same quickcrete company?......And what is the best way to add like 1/4 thick details after the main larger core shape is dry?.........Like adding blueberry sized beads on tree after the tree has been drying for a couple days

[@dperry428]

At an earlier date, I wasn't sure what the difference was in the Quikrete products. Having finally read their MSDS sheets, fortifier is a non-reemulsifiable acrylic (plastic) and the bonding agent is reemulsifiable, meaning it can be softned or dissolved by water after curing. The bonding agent is PVA (polyvinyl acetate), the same stuff that Elmer's glue is made from. Knowing that, I would NOT use the bonding agent for anything that is going to be exposed to water or for outdoor use. As far as adding material to an existing sculpture, it is best to add elements before the base material completely cures, as the adhesion will be much better. Best to add the elements to the base before final set as there will be a chemical bond between the base and the beads. At minimum, wet the base material with water before adding the beads and use acrylic in the beads. Better to wet the base material with acrylic and also use acrylic in the beads. Either way, you are, in effect, gluing the beads to the base material. The only problem with using acrylic on the base surface is, if you intend to use an acid stain coloring agent, the acrylic will interfere with the chemical action of the acid stain.

[@Dkokay]

@@dperry428 Thank you so much for explaining in a detailed way....I've heard various reasons why one is better or "fine" to use, but because it wasn't explained in a way tied to science, I got confused ........Thank you again, love your beautiful work and you sharing the great information and showing your progress 🙂🙂🙂

[@amandakorth7209]

Does this shrink when it dries/hardens, and can you color it- and with what?- pigments added when mixing, or acrylic paints after it dries/hardens?

[@dperry428]

Whether it shrinks or not depends on how you cure it. Keep it moist until it cures. Concrete does not "dry"; it chemically cures by a process called hydration. Don't allow it to lose moisture by evaporation. You can color it any way you want. You can use pigments added when mixing, you can paint it with acrylics, or, as I do, stain it with acid stains made for coloring concrete. Don't know what acid stains are? Check this out: www.concretecamouflage.com/

[@docjc1842]

Long shot this late in the game but can you advise what ratio I could mix QuickCrete to be clay like? I want to put it on the outside of a wooden tree form I have built and carve and paint it to look like bark

[@dperry428]

When you say Quikrete, you have to be more specific as they make a number of products under that brand name. Also, what do you mean by "what ratio"? Ratio of what to what? Assuming you start with say, Quikrete Sand Mix, it's likely a mix of 3 or 4 parts sand to 1 part cement. That would already be far more sand than what I would incorporate into a "clay-like" mix. You might like to look into commercial, proprietary "adpacs" to add to a bagged product to make it a vertical mix that is somewhat clay-like. Do a search for "adpacs for vertical concrete". You'll find things such as Kirtbag, TruePak X, CarVZ from Trinic, Buddy Rhodes Vertical Mix, Sakrete's Shapecrete, Fishstone's Vertical Mix. Otherwise, I advise buying a bag of Portland Cement, fine sand and mixing 1 sand to 1 cement, add acrylic admix to water and add only enough water to make a clay-like consistency.

[@docjc1842]

@@dperry428 i cannot thank you enough for this detailed reply! I was trying to create a substance like Shapecrete (check out their website). Unfortunately it has been discontinued so the options for a sculptable cement product went from 1 to zero for me. I ended up mixing a combination of products and used some of your suggestions to complete the trial version of my product. Thank you again for taking the time to reply.

[@simasaha948]

Sir u hv mix 5cp sand +10cp cement+2cup _-----+pva fiber, plz tell 2cup of which material??? What is pva fiber???? Plz sir

[@dperry428]

Metakaolin, which is calcined kaolin clay.concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/Metakaolin40 PVA fiber is polyvinyl alcohol fiber concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/PVA5

[@1barticus]

What's your opinion of this being used for roofing tile thanks

[@dperry428]

I don't know anything about roofing tiles, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.