Corvette DIC message CHARGING SYSTEM FAULT by froggy

[@williamneal1209]

What amperage alternator should be used in a 03 Z06. Replaced defective one and got a 145 and now showing charge fault, which I did not have with old alternator. Is 110 is what is needed?

[@1947froggy]

I am not sure if higher amp alt is a problem or not? Could be other, sorry.

[@daveloya6510]

To make a long story short I installed long tube headers that required me to remove the starter. After a new battery and alternator still had the problem. I checked the wires to the starter and they were a little loose. After tighten them up it fixed this issue.

[@williamneal2166]

Hi Froggy, Great video on this as usual. I blew a motor in my 03 Z06 and ended up putting a 2002 Z06 LS6 in the car. We had 3 motors in the shop and put an alternator on that had a smaller pulley. Started getting the charge system fault, and a Service Vehicle soon error. Checked everything and decided to put a new alternator in. It had a larger pulley. A guy at Autozone, when I went up to get a larger belt, said the smaller than OEM alternator pully was the issue and that this should solve it. Kinda makes sense as he said it would take just a second or less for the motor to determine the voltage was not high enough right on start. The message would go away in just a few seconds and I did not get it every time. In the end, BOTH the charge system fault and the service vehicle soon messages are now gone. May be something to put in your back pocket if it ever comes up or you get questioned. No reason to think the alternator I took off had any issues as the car was charging fine. Thanks again, your videos are great !!

[@1947froggy]

Hi, really great info, yes pully size is key to the alternator output, likewise the rpm speed, which is why if you have a volt meter that is NOT buffered you can see the volts change. I keep to stock size pully if I ever need to change but my good luck is not any issues with alternators, knock on wood. :)

[@edwardecko]

Hey froggy I got my car fixed only thing I was wrong with it was the starter was put backwards only cost me $80 to get it fix. Thank for your help.

[@1947froggy]

Starter was put IN backwards? How is that possible?? Or a wire was put in the wrong connector?

[@edwardecko]

Yeah it was the wire so was completing a full circuit

[@1947froggy]

Good, any wire that does not have a "special" connector (can only go one place) should be marked when disconnected. Good comment. :)

[@edwardecko]

Chevrolet just apologize and refund me my money turns out the technician was new and installed the starter correctly but hooked up the positive and negative wire into the wrong location. Thanks again for your help much appreciated.

[@1947froggy]

Excellent.

[@Pinlight]

Hey Froggy, I have a 2001 C5 and was getting this same error, exactly like you described. The battery was only six months old, a Bosch hi amperage battery. The car started acting weird. The headlights, if they were only in parking light position, (first click) suddenly wouldn't lift when turned into "on" position. I'd have to switch the lights off and then back on again for the motors to work. Then, the starter started going slowly. This is with a new battery and a one-year old alternator. It didn't make sense. Took the battery out and had it tested. It was fine. The whole stupid problem were the side terminals. After putting the battery back in and really tightening the cables this time, (the cables weren't damaged or corroded) the whole car behaved differently. I wouldn't have believed it, but so far everything works just fine. Problem solved. Too easy.

[@1947froggy]

The side terminals are a really bad design & tend to loosen up. I will never use them again is any car. Had one in my Suburban & it leaked & damaged other stuff. BTW I really dislike Bosch batteries, had one in my IS300 & 2 of them failed, in 6/9 months, never will buy Bosch battery either.

[@1947froggy]

Side term batteries damage a lot when they leak.

[@Pinlight]

+froggy I tend to agree. They used to be good batteries, but I also have one in my wife's Celica. It failed in three months, the new MAP battery type. Expensive. Went completely dead as a doornail. PepBoys replaced it immediately no charge. The side terminal thing on my Corvette -- not apparently leaking, but discovered that you really have to apply some torque to the bolts for them to work properly. It was making the whole car act strange. Vettes are sensitive to anything electrical -- more so than I would have believed at first.

[@1947froggy]

Check!

[@djotechnique]

Just picked her up from the shop. That did the trick!! Of course the cost of the genuine part was double the aftermarket. Vettes are picky!!! My service guy said he never had a problem with other C5's and maybe it's just my year (2000).

[@robbycone1508]

I have watched a few of your videos and have enjoyed how sincere you are sharing this info. I am having this problem and your video isn't playing . it's saying error occurred try later could you give me a short explanation I'm two alternators in.

[@1947froggy]

Robby Cone Hi Robby, try another computer, I can't type in all that I shot in a video. Sorry.

[@lilyellow1how989]

I just had this happen low volts charging system my mechanic has me get a new. Batter and alternator same problem car didn't wanna start the check engine came on so we ran it with the. Tests. It.s ' saidd ignition% switch is goin faulty

[@1947froggy]

Did you inspect the harness & connections at each end like the video? Also, yes it could be that ign sw. but 1st order a new KEY and get it cut, the key has different resistor values so get the CORRECT resistor value.

[@lilyellow1how989]

@@1947froggy no. I havnt checked those. I did how ever today. Put a the ig switch. Car is still doing the same. Thing it's gotta be somthing electrical the battery got. Drained alternator is only 4 days old and. The car was still cutting off when I was driving I had pull over and restart the car twice. Today put the switch in car was acting funnyb

[@1947froggy]

@@lilyellow1how989 Do you have any heavy items on the car key ring besides the fob?

[@lilyellow1how989]

@@1947froggy no. No scratches on the. Key. Nothing. Everything original.

[@lilyellow1how989]

@@1947froggy it's definitely electrical. Idk if it's the cord connecting to the alternator. Bad ground wire.

[@1947froggy]

Great! Vettes are picky about electronic voltages & also (most) aftermarket parts are built to looser specs that oem. Glad you got her fixed. :)

[@carycase5563]

I had this happen today after i finished my harmonic balancer, i hooked my battery up and went to start it and i heard a spark and everything went off. I went to the battery and checked everything and noticed the negative wire was loose so i backed it out and it started right up, however It won't charge now. I replaced the battery and alternator and nothing changed. I tested the battery with my multi-meter and it was at 12.3 when i start the car up it dips to 11.7 and stays but begins to drop. The alternator and battery is new. i checked all the connections in this video and everything looked like new. I checked fuses labeled pcm and ignition and could not find a blown fuse under the passengers feet, i puled the battery cradle and it has never had an acid leak, just a little dust. Am i going crazy?

[@1947froggy]

I have had many sparks at the battery from a loose cable and just refastened and it was good, never had a result of loss of ability to charge. Did you get the correct alternator? The output needs to be correct, also the battery. If the original was lead/acid and you "upgraded" to agm or li/ion or other fancy battery it may require a higher output from the alternator to recharge. This is a somewhat common issue. Alt & battery have to "shake hands" (be compatible). Let me know. Also start pulling codes. Froggy.

[@carycase5563]

@@1947froggy I had both new and old alternator tested this morning and both were good, so i returned the new one and now i am going through the diagnostics tool to see if I can find a solution.

[@carycase5563]

@@1947froggy UPDATE; I fixed my own error, I forgot to attach both cables to the starter, so that's why it wasn't charging, whew! At least i didn't have to take it to an shop.

[@1947froggy]

@@carycase5563 Hmm, I am surprised it started at all, but never argue with a fix that worked. Maybe the starter (when not engaged) is part of the charging system? Any event, well done!

[@carycase5563]

@@1947froggy I know, right? How can an entire harness of wires be missing and it starts? There were at least 3 fairly thick wires attached to the one I missed.

[@jrzr1river489]

recently I changed my alternator from oem to a aftermarket from oriellys, and my new battery drains in a couple of days without the car being started. I checked all the fuses and relays. I had the charging system fault code come up and then disappears.I wonder if the alternator would cause the battery to drain? I charged my battery with a battery tender, I don’t let it get to full dead. I am new to the corvette scene so any suggestions are helpful.

[@1947froggy]

You need to check if the new alt is putting out correct charging amps.

[@renpullinen189]

Super info, thanks for posting this...! Spoiler alert, make sure you disconnect your battery before starting work as stated at the end... :0)

[@ShackledGTO]

Froogy, why install a crankcase breather on the driver or passenger side? All you end up with is low oil and the scent of warm oil?

[@1947froggy]

+Gary Korey Turns out I did not need it, but does NOT cause low oil or smell. :)

[@spawnofsatan3774]

I installed a "remanufactured" AC Delco alternator and got a charge system fault. I replaced it with an brand new OEM alternator and problem solved. Just sayin.

[@xtremevette2]

Cool...hopefully mine will be the same way.

[@kscorvettekid]

Phenomenally helpful. Thank you.

[@djotechnique]

My boss owns a vette as well. He found a vette forum stating that my replacement alternator must be a genuine GMC part. The aftermarket parts' chip may not be compatible. Bringing it back to my service guy and will pay the difference. Hopefully this will solve my problem, I'm thinking it will since it started when i replaced it. I'll post my results.

[@1947froggy]

Hi, I would start by checking fuses (easy) then check connections to the dic. I don't have c6 so you will need to research where the fuses & connections are. :)

[@youngestson6537]

Did you get the code to go away?

[@1947froggy]

Yes, never got again so far.

[@joseselva3867]

Hi froggy; i have a 99 coupe i am getting "C.S.F" message no other troubles. have replaced 2 alternators and a new battery. At night when i lock the car with the remote the alarm activates fine. when it comes to the morning and i try to unlock the car with the remote i get no response. I need to open it with the key. The car so far starts fine; what could be draining the battery.

[@1947froggy]

+Jose Selva I would follow any standard procedure on how to find a battery drain. Google it. :)

[@estebanurbs7653]

thanks froggy. You are THE MAN. This was exactly what was causing the charge system fault DIC error on my 99 coupe. Thanks again. GREAT video that fixed my problem. BY the way, you are not in Hampton Roads, VA are you ? That sounds just liek the ice creamtruck in my neighborhood. Thanks again, good sir !

[@1947froggy]

Yep, disconnect batt. Mauri good call.

[@1947froggy]

If it started when the alt was replaced I would triple ck that alt connector. I don't much believe in coincidence when it comes to troubleshooting cars, Look to the last change/service before when the problem started. :)

[@614XJ]

So when I lifted the hood for light at night in my garage from my 98 corvette, I can hear a noise coming from the (battery, or fuse box). The keys are not in the car either. When the light eventually goes out and I have to close the hood slightly then re open for the light to come on the noise comes on. When the light goes off it stops. When I put keys in the ignition and the hood is up with the light on it goes off. Then I turn it to the "on" position and the lights flicker and the noise comes on from that battery or fuse box.. I turn and take the keys out the noise continues for maybe like 10 seconds then I hear noises sounding like it's coming from behind the car. Idk it's weird like a knocking, stomping. Lol please help me. I'm gonna test the battery later today and check my wires and clean them and try that but any idea what's going on?

[@614XJ]

Also when in the "on" position the electronics in my car won't come on either really. No air, nothing. Also if I leave a door cracked, say driver door, the lights on the rear view mirror turn on same with the hood light but the inside lights go dim and the noise is still happening. It's like a quiet (drilling, bzzz) sound. Thanks for the help!

[@1947froggy]

I'll take a guess it's something in the security system (even if alarm is off). But I really would have to hear it. Can you attach a sound clip? :)

[@614XJ]

I'll try and get a video clip for you and post it later today

[@1947froggy]

k. I don't hear much of anything when I pop my hood. :)

[@xtremevette2]

So Froggy, it never came back? I oddly after owning my vette for 7 years had this pop up this morning. Have no idea why. I changed the battery out to a Optima Red Top back 6 months ago. That has been the only recent thing. I'll check that connector. Strange though.

[@1947froggy]

Never came back. :)

[@ShackledGTO]

As far for the alternator ( Charging System Fault ) R&R alternator.

[@1947froggy]

+Gary Korey I never had to replace the alternator, just cleaned connections as shown, problem never came back. Thanks for the comment. :)

[@1947froggy]

That's interesting, I had not heard that. OTOH I know for sure Vettes are VERY SENSITIVE to voltage so could be. Please post/comment how it gors. BTW mine is good 6 months now, no repeat on msg. :)

[@djotechnique]

Btw, alternator was replaced twice, thinking the first one was defective. Tomorrow will be the 3rd.

[@gearhead9412]

Have an 01 ZO6 C5 charging fault new starter new alternator battery is good dashboard gauges flicker cannot read codes I'm stumped don't know what to do

[@PhillyFly1039]

Love how the ice cream man came by while you were recording this lol.

[@1947froggy]

Take your pick, #1 is lawn dudes, #2 is trash truck # 3 UPS, etc. always some interesting background sounds, I need a STUDIO. :)

[@1947froggy]

Update, since I did this service problem has NOT reoccured (4/17/12)

[@Steel-Pinnings]

my scanner gave code 562 (system voltage low) This is the closest thing that I found for some kind of answer.

[@1947froggy]

One of the biggest if not THE biggest cause of issues with c5/6 vettes is bad batteries. Take it out of the car & bring to a shop/store and have it LOAD TESTED. :)

[@edwardecko]

I have a c6 Z06 I'll change out the alternator battery and the starter on a display still won't read higher than 11.5 to 12.0

[@edwardkee2496]

Edwardecko ml az

[@ShackledGTO]

If only I had to use CRC to clear up my alternator issue. Cheers

[@1947froggy]

+Gary Korey Of course they do wear out. Too bad yours was more than a connection issue. Thanks for viewing. :)

[@ShackledGTO]

I had one on my crankcase and every time I was driving aggressively oil was coming from the breather.

[@ShackledGTO]

Yeah Buddy 🚘🏁

[@jmproductions272]

I need help with my 2008 C6 DIC, it doesn't work and not even the lights turns on can you help?

[@michaeldavis9543]

Start prob intermittant push start/ works alt rr batt rr help

[@1947froggy]

+Michael Davis Check for dic codes.

[@djotechnique]

Is that eddie and the cruisers playing in the background? My C5's having that same readout on my display. The message didn't appear until I replaced my alternator. Brought that back thinking it was defective. I took my battery back in today because its still under warranty but I'm getting the same message. It goes away if I bring the rpm's up. Going to check the wiring and CPU next.

[@edwardecko]

Froggy can you help me

[@1947froggy]

If the car starts & runs ok, you may have an issue with the CALIBRATION of the digital display of voltage, it could be off! On my c5z it always read low by about .5 volt. I eventually ignored it. If it bothers you the dealer can perform a calibration with a GM scan tool. Thanks for watching!

[@edwardecko]

Ok I will do that thank you. I will keep you posted

[@edwardecko]

Ok I will do that thank you. I will keep you posted

[@kennethmartinez4526]

Hey Froggy quick question. I just put a brand new alternator twice and the fault still comes up. It'll go away once I get on the pedal but still. The connections are good not corroded or damaged. Could it be I got the wrong alternator? I see that your alternator prongs (pins) look different than the one I have. Any help would be appreciated.

[@1947froggy]

What year is your c5? The alt connection may have differed. Did you inspect & clean the pcm connector? I NEVER had the msg come back. :)

[@kennethmartinez4526]

froggy 2000 I have hell I even got desperate Nd took it to the dealership.

[@1947froggy]

What did they do? How much?

[@kennethmartinez4526]

froggy PCM/ECM diagnostic about $219.

[@king5.o486]

Kenneth Martinez i did the same and the new alternator was defective replaced it with another new one message went away👍

[@markhill9232]

Whole lot of nothing

[@1947froggy]

Don't be so hard on yourself if you don't get it. :)