Cr10SPro ... Critical Fix you need to make ... ASAP, Extruder issue SOLVED!

[@fliteskinsbyrasterize2603]

I contacted Tiny Machines concerned about my CR0S Pro V2 that I just ordered from them (Arrives end of June 2020). They responded within an hour with: " Machines sold by us are shipped with the fix implemented. Following our response/fix with the lever, Creality has been shipping machines with the washers in place and the levers updated." Thanks to Liqui-Dirt 3D for the great advice (Subscribed!) and pointing me to Tiny Machines. Thanks to Tiny Machines for being an awesome company to buy 3D printers from!

[@sk1pp3r65]

Wanted to say thank you. I had no clue these guys were in town. Placed order and had in hand 2hr later.

[@Camusdemerac]

You can also keep your gears and parts from your extruder with grease oil from cars, high temperature resistance, good lubrication and prevents gear wearout from constant friction.

[@AlanChunkyMunky]

just have to comment and thank you. Ordered My first machine from Tiny machines and got this exact one. had a jam and turned out to be poor quality filament that was too brittle and was binding at the gear extruder. this tutorial helped me more confidently take apart the extruder and was able to cut out the jammed filament and replaced it with better filament. looks to be running now and just gotta thank you!

[@VCMEntertainments]

Had to dismantle my CR10s pro right now and checked it for that video again. Seems that newer models already had this extra cut milled out on the lever

[@danthemancasey]

One major issue that was not addressed; the bolt through the bearings and the surface on which the ride is threaded! This causes both the bolt and the bearings to wear, further adding to the loose tolerance. Another YT'er had a bolt machined with a full shoulder for the bearing to ride (this is what the extruder should have, but bean counters...). Another solution is to get a long bolt with a shoulder that extends the length of the bearings, and cut it down, leaving you a bolt with a long shoulder and only a small section of thread (easiest solution).

[@sprockylock391]

100% agree plus slightly bevel the bottom of the teath on the gear to remove the sharp edges 😉

[@101fng]

Wouldn’t you want some axial play in the driven gear to help locate it properly onto the filament? It seems the real problem is excessive play between the needle bearings and the shaft of that bolt.

[@romanroad483]

I just bought a clone version and the needle rollers run on the threads of the bolt. This means that clockwise rotation will try to screw the gear downwards against the aluminium support. As you say axial play is a good thing.

[@Gorealawarfare]

The link is 404, do they still make this fix? I cant find it on Tiny machines.

[@ziptagthesnake]

If you have a newer machine it is not a problem. Just look for a washer and a cutout on the bracket under the extruder gear that is toward the front of the machine. Creality have long since implemented this mod on new machines.

[@olafschermann1592]

Nice surprise: i bought an Elegoo Neptune 2S with dual gear extruder. To prevent self-grinding i disassembled the extruder gear to install the shim fix. To my surprise they already have 2 copper washers installed. 👍

[@SuperYellowsubmarin]

Interestingly, Creality seems to have enacted this modification. Just checked my CR10 max bought for Christmas, it does have a recess and bronze washers !

[@TheShamwwow]

Honestly thank you, I have been struggling with what I thought was a clog. Ordering this new arm today.

[@ajjamoore]

How has it been?

[@TheShamwwow]

@@ajjamoore works well

[@PawelTylinski]

problem is that you mounted driving weel to close to the motor and filament is pressing second weel against frame. Holes and wheels should be perfectly aligned and then everything is working with no isues.

[@marklowe7431]

An upgrade to fix and upgrade to fix an upgrade.

[@CrashPCcz]

Yes, I spotted that immediately once I got my new dual gear metal extruder in my hands. Always check your new hardware, and if you have half of technical brain cell in your brain, you have to figure out that the original design is very bad. The sizing of anything should be in a way, that the free gear would have a leevay to center itself accordingly to the filament path, and it must have to have space for that, above and below of itself. They´re complete idiots, if they don´t do other overengineered solution. I will check my extruder, but it looks like even after some help from me, it still does this thing (but like 50%). I will try to push the powered gear on the stepper shaft 0,3-0,5mm higher to see, if that helps. DOH... KUDOS to tinymachines caring about this. Cool guys!

[@nathanamisse]

Hey, I'm having the same problem, but the link isn't anymore available, do you know where do get this piece ? thanks

[@LockDots84]

Looks like tiny machines doesn't sell this anymore. Anyone know where I can get this kit or what size the brass washer is?

[@MrDevilFlash]

tinymachines3d.com/products/creality-10s-pro-modified-extruder-lever-1?_pos=3&_sid=8f3ea0bf3&_ss=r

[@rippinross3238]

Sick intro clip!

[@my.username]

Is this a common problem on the CR10S PRO/V2, i have not heard about it from anyone before? Is this kit available for people who has not bought their printers from Tiny Machines? And what type of grease/oil is Creality using?

[@TheSirSpence]

Great help but so many innuendos... "just a little lube and roll it between your fingers gently" 🤣 Starting at 9:47 is pure gold

[@TheSirSpence]

No one click those links they are spam. I tried reporting but KZbin are slow to remove

[@marckerger]

these dual extruders all have another flaw: the gears are below the filament, so all the dust will fall into the gear and compress between the teeth and "clog" the teeth.

[@nashme11]

Well ... interesting. I just ordered one of these yesterday but didn't see this video until now. I don't understand - this design is sold all over Ebay even today and no such "fix" is shown on any new one. I did read all the replies here. I don't understand why an exact alignment of the idler gear with the main gear, (with some filament installed) making the idler gear ride with equal space on the shaft, is not going to allow the system to work fine. Also putting some white lithium grease above and below the idler gear in my mind is just common engineering sense. The idler gear is going to follow the main gear due to the filament concave cutout so if adjusted correctly will not have pressure below it. It not a high speed gear system it just moves very very slowly so I don't understand the alignment problems. Again, with grease under the idler gear and proper alignment why would there be a big grinding issue? It doesn't appear to me to be that big of a design issue, but I'll know better when I get the thing. Thanks for the video.

[@4digitShelby]

nashme11 do you have a link for the ones on eBay? Was contemplating picking one up just to compare; I haven’t been having issues with mine yet but may in the future.

[@pauloeduardogodoy]

Exactly what I was thinking when I started to research about this “issue”. I know a bunch of other guys that are using this original design for months 24/7 and the arm is still perfect. The point is the correct alignment of the gears… If they are correctly aligned no down force are going to appear, unless one of the gears is presenting any sort of quality scape. And I bet that some of the extruders usually left the factory with misaligned gears. Well, my Ender-5 Pro came with a broken hot end cooler… Creality's quality inspection are far from been world-class.

[@topdawg666]

Great Video - Checked mine and i have the same issue. Unfortunately it was not originally purchased from Tiny Machines. I see they sell a replacement but will I have the same issue or does it include the fix.

[@LiquiDirt3D]

Just go on the link I have, and submit a ticket and ask them for the kit and that you did not originally buy from them. Tell them you saw the LD3D video they will take care of you no problem I'm not sure the cost. But it is worth the fix. Huge print quality improvement.

[@pandapropsncostumes]

Anyone know if these modified lever arms are available anywhere? Tiny machines doesn’t sell them and no reply from Creality

[@shakejones]

great video and explanation! well done mate! thanks for sharing!

[@jakefowler4246]

What kind of lubricant do you use?

[@Oneofakind126]

Are these parts still available to order? I'm in the UK and have a very worn extruder. But I cannot find official creality spares to order.

[@karlajohnson6798]

Dan, yes they are. See the link I posted above. I was very happy to find they still had them in stock! Good luck!

[@alevikingo2979]

Looking for a solution for this extruder, I can say now, that Ron Jeremy helped a lot.

[@dabooge]

I came to the comments looking for this. Rofl

[@Steve_Smith65]

Its a shame that Creality know about this issue but as yet have done nothing about it.. I would take up the swap option, but really cant be without a printer for a few weeks as I am in Europe and it seems Tiny Machines doesnt have parts for sale or I would be buying one direct... But great video and thanks for bring the issue to everyone's attention.

[@jakeniles8481]

Dang, looks like they're out of stock. Anyone know if they're still making them?

[@user-yn8xd2uc7j]

Thank you Ron Jeremey.

[@theminion2771]

Wouldnt it be better to contact creality to have them fix the issue on all new printers?

[@buder5116]

how is sending an empty box with the broken part help the next person ??? im curious

[@JasperJanssen]

Tiny machines does the machining in house, so they take the old returned arms, clean them up and machine them, and then send them to the next person who needs the mod. (These extruders are not expensive, but not having to use a whole extra extruded does make the mod cheaper)

[@buder5116]

@@JasperJanssen i see thanks for clearing that up :D

[@NOC-H]

I'm gonna ask again, any updates? the link is 404, as David Anaka said.

[@xxiinsanexx]

this only happens because the extruder is positioned to feed horizontally. there's an adapter to flip it another way (i.e. changing the direction of feed), the grind will not and should not happen

[@CrashPCcz]

It would. If you had this one in your paws, it´s just wrong. Plain wrong.

[@st3rg]

does this apply to cr10s pro v2 also ?

[@DatFunnyPerson]

Could you use WD40 for the oil too?

[@ArandomNutter]

Question what filament sensor are you using?

[@ScaldaYT]

Sweet guide, great job

[@LiquiDirt3D]

Thank you. I hope it helps.

[@Ragnar.Lothbrok.3.14]

How many hours did you have on that machine up until that point? I have a brand new crs10pro should I wait until it happens to fix?

[@LiquiDirt3D]

Hi, thank you for your message I had several hundred prints off my machine before this was a cause for failed prints. but it comes down to hours printed. I would make this fix sooner than later to preserve prints.

[@Ragnar.Lothbrok.3.14]

@@LiquiDirt3D it's crazy how something like that could be overlooked even by Chinese engineers! Looks like an easy fix, my printer is still being shipped to me and my to do list of upgrades keeps growing lol. Luckily I have a milling machine for that part though.

[@powerstage_br]

Precious tips. Thanks!

[@Draumlaus]

Awesome. Same issue on mine. I ordered from tinymachines the part you link. We need more videos ! Wouldnt the wear eventually make the same mod? when there is only metal under the fingerbearing left?

[@LeifHedstrom]

Is this needed for the 10S Pro v2 as well ?

[@hogstoothairsoft1967]

No! Not even for the V1... it was only his machine i bet... !

[@JustSomeInternetDude]

will tiny-machines do this regardless of where one bought their 3d printer?

[@madmodder123]

yes

[@JustSomeInternetDude]

@@madmodder123 Thanks, and yes i can confirm they did

[@carlwilhelmtonnevold]

Holy cr@p. You look like Ron Jeremy!!! I got a real flashback when i opened this video! Thanks for tha laugh, and also for a good video. :)

[@carlwilhelmtonnevold]

And btw; Tinymachines do not offer this "upgrade" anymore. :(

[@davidtempleSilverSibeMetals]

Thanks for the help sir!

[@g.s.3389]

what are the e-steps of the extruder?

[@saltysteel3996]

These dual gear version are usually about 135 E steps.

[@karlajohnson6798]

I contacted Tiny Machines since the link posted for the lever kit no longer worked. Tiny Machines responded to me in no time. Here's the new link for anyone else who happens upon this video and finds out what the problem with their printer is. tinymachines3d.com/products/creality-10s-pro-modified-extruder-lever-1?_pos=3&_sid=8f3ea0bf3&_ss=r

[@richwhitney956]

Is this fixed in the CR10S Pro V2?

[@MrJustafellow]

No it is not, I have metal fillings everywhere.

[@greatgrumb]

Yes, mine came last week with the brass washer installed

[@jwalters4681]

Is this a problem with the pro v2 also?

[@MrJustafellow]

It is, I'm currently dealing with it. Metal fillings everywhere. I regret buying the pro v2...

[@techvsdeep]

rarely seen such nonsense! the pinion on the stepper motor must be aligned at the correct height, then it runs perfectly, without any abrasion! Such abrasion can only occur if the pinion has been installed too low by the motor. Or the black screw from the second pinion is too tight

[@Cleav727]

Awesome, thanks heaps for sharing this

[@kisseima5424]

Damn... I'm from Germany and my printer have the same issue. Does any one know to get this without big amounts of shipping costs and not waiting for a month to get this replacement lever?

[@illogicalferi]

try to mill it with a company around :D this should be not a problem i guess.

[@CrashPCcz]

@@illogicalferi Alternative might be to mill the gear wheel if you know what you´re doing. It should be made or constructed in a way that the gear is centered by the filament and powered gear by its position, and leaway above and under the gear, so it does not have a chance for frictioning with other parts. First idea is to make this frictioning gear just shorter. The space for it it there. Could be shortened on both size without much if any harm.

[@paarths.5281]

I fully changed my extruder and went for a Bondtech BMG extruder

[@manuelcastrou79]

Nice tip thanks a lot!! Direct drive to cr10s pro! Please!

[@thelightspeed3d712]

So those are a cloned version of Bondtech gears. Typically the idler does move on the original Bondtech. The reason is so you have good alignment on the filament.

[@LiquiDirt3D]

This is not good and if it is moving it will cause retraction binding and thus cause print issues. Clone or not the same issue is present and there should be no wabble in this gear or the filament drive system for best performance.

[@thelightspeed3d712]

Liqui-Dirt 3D I agree on the binding. But in general just know that clone of the real deal does move side to side. It’s called the “idler” and it’s not like the “drive” gear. The drive gear needs to be dead on center on the filament, the idler will align itself with the filament compressed between them.

[@thelightspeed3d712]

Liqui-Dirt 3D the $80 Bondtech BMG moves side to side. Not a wobble, but up in down is normal. If I could I would post a video... I have three bondtechs and they all have a little movement in the idler. I agree the binding is an issue. But that’s a Creality flaw, not a Bondtech year fault. They adapted the Bondtech to the Creality.

[@LiquiDirt3D]

@@thelightspeed3d712 The less movement in the drive system the better and if there is movement does not mean its a bad thing however we are not really discussing the movement. We are talking about the Grinding of the lever and the issue it causes. The filament needs to be pulled or pushed in a controlled manor thus should not have slop in gears it like a loose belt in an axis. thus not a good thing this fix makes sure it has no slop or excessive wear. Even the engineer of Creality them self sees the merit in this.

[@thelightspeed3d712]

Liqui-Dirt 3D I understand what you’re saying, but you have to realize that Creality engineers very little on their printers. The extruder design is not Creality ‘s it’s stolen from Bondtech (not open source completely). It’s the Bondtech gears, but not the 3:1 geared extruder. So, with that said I have three of the genuine article on my printers. What these Creality gears was copied from. And on those genuine gears the the idler gear has a little slop from end to end, probably 1mm to allow it to align on the filament. The other thing that is true is the is that Bondtech gears were not designed to sit in the orientation Creality has them. They are grinding on the arm because they were not design to sit vertical. They were designed to sit horizontally on the axle pin (not a bolt). If you want to really upgrade that printer spend $80 and buy a genuine Bondtech BMG extruder from a reseller. It will make that printer much better. In fact because Creality copies them Bondtech made a lot just for that printer

[@scottm5425]

Great video thanks

[@tony4metallicaify]

Just got done changing my oil in the ole cummins today!!........I didn't have any gloves on ither,.........I'm a badboy!🤣

[@AuntJemimaGames]

This is basically the same as the WINSINN dual gear extruder, if not the exact same extruder. That has the same problem, it's definitely a design flaw they don't seem to be interested in actually correcting, for some baffling reason...

[@paolobensa4897]

stime da 93 a 139 ???

[@LeifSommerdal]

Great video, but yet another crusial problem. The wires to the heated bed is bound to break leadig to thermal runaway or even fire due to shortcut

[@briandan1184]

Ahhh...my EXACT problem. Thanks!

[@lsellclumanetsolarenergyll5071]

This is correct but the FIX is use a Dremel orange grinding wheel and reduce the thickness of the red anodized aluminum so it's smooth surface again. Also DO NOT USE ANY GREASE in that area it acts as a sand paper with the debris from the filament. Get yourself some brass flat washer in the size of M4 and rind as much aluminum down as needed to you can get at least 1 brass washer in between the gear and the grounded off aluminum. Idea is 2 washers which will allow for a much longer lasting and smoother operation. Ensure both washers are letting the gear ride above smoothly so there should be a tiny bit of play. This will enhance the function of your printer and reduce the friction of your hardened steel gear from further destroying the aluminum. Brass will act as a gear plate so it will slip without destroying the aluminum and letting the gear ride on the brass. We done this to all our 3D printers of our print farm with very good results.

[@jeremycanning8934]

Kit no longer available

[@roadstar499]

just from this video i realize that extractor is junk... the one on my ender 5 and cr-10 dual axis clone use a much better part reliable part... not sure why this one is so complex with the extra gears etc... but iam sure it has to do with other added features that my machine don't have .. if you want a reliable machine simpler is always better..

[@ruudwarnaar477]

When comes New video’s?

[@LiquiDirt3D]

I'm working on a few right now. I'll post them soon. it just takes a bit of time. I have a CR10S MAX I just shot video on so there is that as well coming.

[@ruudwarnaar477]

Liqui-Dirt 3D Thank you. I’ll like your video’s a lot. I’m a cr-10s pro user. And your video’s are very educational.

[@LiquiDirt3D]

​@@ruudwarnaar477 your welcome, I hope that I can continue to provide great content here on the channel. My videos can be longer but I get into the nuts and bolts showing every part of the build or experiment. Please make sure to invite others to my channel as we are trying to reach 1000 subscribers by next month and we will do something really special if we do.

[@ruudwarnaar477]

Liqui-Dirt 3D i’ll try to get you well known here in the Netherlands. I do talk a lot of your video’s and I think it will work out.

[@LiquiDirt3D]

@@ruudwarnaar477 Thank you so much for your support.

[@Warhorse469]

Another problem with the CR10S PRO, it really is the black sheep of the Creality family.

[@mauritsvw]

Maybe one should just lubricate that problem part periodically to make it last longer?

[@s8nlx661]

Its always the little things

[@tylerbushy2542]

Ron Jeremy is that you?!?!

[@xxxxzorroxxxx]

Simple is good

[@headcheesee]

the arm costs as much as the whole extruder wtf

[@jeffallen3382]

Ron Jeremy?

[@tricelbor]

they need a different bolt because that one will eat the bearings next, they didnt fixed the issue :(

[@mattpass1113]

i switched to a bondtech clone and never looked back

[@richardwolfe2089]

Would you mind explaining, or linking to what you switched to? I am new to 3d printing, the CR-10s pro being my first printer, and when it works it is great, but I am having this issue and was wondering if it is less hassle to just switch extruders?

[@mattpass1113]

@@richardwolfe2089 I got a bond tech clone off Amazon, u will have to flash the firmware for 415 steps on the extruder and reverse the direction, I just flipped the wires on my extruder stepper motor but I did flash the firmware for 415 steps

[@Beta250trials]

Stick a washer in done 2 minutes

[@hogstoothairsoft1967]

I bet you got a „Monday device“! No Buildups, no nothing... Unfair to claim this is an issue everyone will have...

[@rb.867]

cant see what your doing , your camera is TOO low dude

[@mamatuja]

Be sure to wear gloves and helmet.😁

[@BeginTheCrusade]

Ron?...R-Ron Jeremy?

[@theneverwas2835]

Ron Jeremy, 3D Printer

[@johnnicol5009]

It took nearly 4 minutes until you get to the point.... and 8 minutes to actually describe the fix.

[@captainKts]

Omg Ron Jeremy get to the point already!

[@DejanKuzmanovic]

Nice, but it was like watching ron jeremy explaining how to 3d print 🤣

[@derrick_builds]

Lost me at proper ppe.

[@LupusMechanicus]

LOL how much did you pay for this "repair kit" you could have accomplished the same with a file, a brass washer and some moly grease for next to nothing.

[@petrus540]

Ron Jeremy is that you?

[@bethanybellwarts]

The trick is stop spending money on replacement bowden tubes, couplers, all metal extruders and buy a direct drive system ASAP. Lol these printers are trash and designed for failure.

[@lopo8000]

your fingers are almost always covering the build piece!

[@pcb1962]

A 20 minute video for 3 minutes of information 🙄