Crank Removal and Installation - Self Extracting

How to remove and install a self extracting crank on a bike.
Questions or comments? Leave them below!
See all our Crank & Pedal videos in our Crank & Pedal playlist ▶︎ • Repair Help: Cranks an...
Video contents:
00:58 Tools Needed
01:18 Removal
02:44 Installation Quick Tip
03:21 Installation - Two Piece Crank Set
04:51 Installation - Three Piece Crank Set
➤ Tools & materials used:
• SPA-2 Pin Spanner - www.parktool.com/product/pin-s...
• or SPA-6 Pin Spanner - www.parktool.com/product/adjus...
• HT-6 6mm Hex Tool - www.parktool.com/product/6mm-h...
• or HT-10 10mm Hex Tool - www.parktool.com/product/10mm-...
• HMR-4 Shop Hammer - www.parktool.com/product/shop-...
• TW-6.2 Ratcheting “Click Type” Torque Wrench - www.parktool.com/product/ratch...
• SBS-1.2 Socket & Bit Set - www.parktool.com/product/socke...
• PPL-1 PolyLube 1000 Lubricant - www.parktool.com/product/polyl...
For a text-based walk-through of this process: www.parktool.com/blog/repair-h...
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➤ Follow: / parktoolblue
➤ Fix It:
Did you know that Park Tool is the #1 resource for bicycle repair education?
• Visit our KZbin Channel: / parktool
• Visit the Repair Help section of Parktool.com: www.parktool.com/blog/repair-h...
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➤ About Park Tool:
Since our founding in 1963, Park Tool has been the leading name in bicycle tools. Our KZbin channel is an extension of our mission to be the ultimate resource for mechanics and riders of all skill levels. Here you will find comprehensive repair help tutorials for a wide range of components and processes, as well as troubleshooting guides, tips and tricks, and information on the latest Park Tool products.
➤ More Crank & Pedal Repair Help:
• Crank Type Identification ▶︎ • Crank Type Identification
• Crank Removal and Installation - Two Piece Compression Slotted (Hollowtech II, FSA) ▶︎ • Crank Removal and Inst...
• Crank Removal and Installation - Three Piece Crankset (Square Spindle, ISIS, Octalink) ▶︎ • Crank Removal and Inst...
• Crank Removal and Installation - One Piece ▶︎ • One Piece Crank & Bott...
• Crank Removal and Installation - Campagnolo® Ultra-Torque ▶︎ • Crank Removal and Inst...
• Crank Removal and Installation - Campagnolo® Power-Torque ▶︎ • Video
• Pedal Removal and Installation ▶︎ • Bicycle Pedal Removal ...
• How to Service & Adjust Shimano SPD Pedals ▶︎ • How to Service & Adjus...
• How to Rebuild Crank Brothers Pedals ▶︎ • How to Rebuild Crank B...

[@3r1414]

I love the music, the cut away, and the mustache. Keep up the good work.

[@houstonfortney8261]

This is an extremely useful video. Thank you for going to the trouble of making cutaway pieces.

[@RGCastro7]

These Park Tool videos have been super useful. Thank you, Calvin and Park Tool!

[@etrou4]

I've been looking for this type of crank removal tool nobody seems to have. Damn! It's self extracting!!! Thanks so much, that saves more than the day.

[@aloharay]

Thank you. The video is clear, concise and informative. Made my work much easier!

[@marnusdege]

These videos are very useful. Park Tool is the best, dont regret one day on buying the PK-3 tool kit. Would love for Calvin and the team to visit South-Africa so I could learn from this great man himself. Thanks and keep those videos coming.

[@stewmuskie1729]

Brilliant! Video. Looked about and this is absolutely bang on. Much thanks my moustached friend.

[@mackarof77]

excelent tutor, thumbs-up for cross sections where thread is, great work! thanks.

[@alanharpdesign]

Thanks for the video. Just the info I needed!

[@kennethwise7108]

You're the best, THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!!!

[@winnguyen443]

Thanks for getting back to me , I went to the bike shop and they were perplexed, left it with them.

[@davesnorlock6346]

the best moustache in the mechanic world. Mr. Jones you my friend kick ass

[@JimBergman1]

The cutaway views are a huge help to understand why I was having a problem. I removed the retaining ring not understanding that was necessary as part of a self extracting system. Thanks Park Tools!

[@florianbusch3082]

And I lost mine, didn’t mind until today when I wanted to remove the crank 🫠

[@dan__11]

Thank You very much from Moscow. So accessibly!

[@APC9906]

Was able to take mine apart. Thanks Park Tool

[@Methodical2]

Excellent video, especially using the cutouts to show exactly how things work. Thanks again

[@jimmykennon4591]

this video help me alot thank you so much

[@kevinrtres]

Thanks a lot! this was just what I needed, especially that bit about NOT REMOVING the retaining ring!!!! I was about to start fiddling with it!

[@l33america]

so I can just start loosening the bolt for the crank and leave the retaining ring on? so whats the point of having the pin spanner tool?

[@choddo]

Great video, thanks. Now I just need to get hold of a torque wrench that'll go above 22Nm to get this FSA crank back on properly

[@StewsChannel]

Excellent video! Thanks :)

[@GiuseppeAcca]

great video!!!!

[@user-nt8ug2tm5p]

thanks for these videos i understand how i am stupid. Now i need a crank puller to upgrade my bike

[@alasdairgeddes]

Thanks, helpful video.

[@zentex99]

Nice instruction.

[@reynoldeuler9802]

Perfect Video!

[@shaun89759]

Thank you mr jones

[@saliyaweerakkody]

very good advise traning vedio i flowning thank you i am ex cyclist sri lanka

[@pablodiaz6130]

The perfect video 10000%

[@ashab1]

Only if all how to videos were like this.

[@benmurphy1123]

thanks

[@beerenmusli8220]

Helpful!!

[@tourajehtezazi2473]

Very useful

[@GNX157]

I just removed an FSA Omega crank arm from a brand new bike I just got and let me tell you it was really stuck on there. I thought that nut would break, or my tool so I took a soft rubber dead blow hammer and tapped the crank arm to shock it and turned the nut little by little, tap tap, then loosen some more until I could tell it was easing up. Glad I did this when new and I put extra Phil woods grease on the splines going back together so hopefully this wouldn't happen in the future. My torque wrench only went to 24nm so when it started clicking, I went by feel until I could tell it bottomed out, with a regular ratchet. The removal was in no way as easy as it was for Calvin.

[@PoulHansenDK]

It would be nice with some tips on removing a stuck bolt. here everything goes so easily

[@alexdubovtcev4693]

познавательно. спасибо))

[@evannecochea7878]

Now THATS good shifting.

[@givreycham]

Another great and useful video. Do both sides have a standard right hand threads on SRAM cranks.

[@parktool]

The crank bolt of these systems will be a right hand thread. Remove counter-clockwise. The retaining caps however are now often a left hand thread. Again, leave these caps in place and only use the center bolt, the crank bolt that tightens into the arm to the spindle.

[@Paulsbikeandboard]

So the retaining ring does nothing except help with the extraction? Tightening or loosening it doesn’t change the crank position or anything? Good to know!

[@cheryveenleevlog4148]

Hi..can u make a tutorial video how to remove dub cap?

[@user-mi3ih8ii5t]

How can i tell if my octalink v1 splines are aligned before i torque? Its not visible due to the self-extracting retaining ring

[@philiphad8981]

Hi Park Tool, big fan of your videos and tools. I have made a bit of stupid mistake. I removed the 'do not remove' nut on my SRAM X0 crankset. I figure I would ask the experts for guidance but I would just torque it back in (same torque as other side recommended) with locktight? Please help, thanks

[@parktool]

Yes, re-install with some thread locker, all should be good.

[@winnguyen443]

Hey great video as always. The problem is my retainer ring pops out before the crank arm releases. It takes quit a bit of pressure, the retainer ring just can’t withstand it.

[@parktool]

That is a problem. If the ring is fully threaded and tight, but still pops out, the threads are likely bad. You may need to try a crank puller and thread that into the arm. However, some brands are using larger thread sizing in the arm. In this case contact the manufacturer for a new retaining ring.

[@wheeliemachine626]

Great video, I had one problem when I finished installing my crank, the crank is moving left and right I don’t know what went wrong. Thank you 🙏

[@parktool]

It is possible there is bearing play in the spindle. Grab the other arm and move it the same. If both are the same, the movement is the spindle. The bottom bracket may need replacement or adjustment.

[@mikeep4283]

@@parktool hi pal I've got a set of wc boxxer forks (not sure what year) on a knolly v-tach but I cant get the 20 ml thru axle out i can get the spindle out but (it seems like) the thru axle is stuck. Apparently the instructions are on the inside which is oh so helpful when u cant remove it. Would there be any chance u could make a video on how to remove one please as any video (which there isnt many of) arent very helpful or descriptive. Where as you are really descriptive and explain things in a really helpful manner. Thanks in advance either way

[@robbloforese]

Thanks for the videos - great work. Have a prowheel square tappered spindle - what tool should I purchase?

[@parktool]

CCP-22 is the tool for that job.

[@budycelyn]

isn't it just great when the arm comes off super easy like that, not like mine, the retaining ring cracked while winding the the bolt out. the crank arm was super stuck

[@donaldn93]

I got the left arm off but the rest of crank is stuck on there. Do I just have to muscle it off? What do i do??

[@mahyarsalehi9408]

I have an issue with the installation. I have FSA Omega crank with FSA BB86 that comes with a wave washer. As you mentioned I greased inside the thread but when I reach the torque, the crank it too tight to spin. Accoring to FSA instruction, the clearance between non-drive arm and the bearing cap (where the washer applies the pre-load) should be 1.5-2.0 mm, but respecting this criteria doesn't let me reach the torque. Shall I go whith lower torque? Or degrease inside the thread and reinstall it? Thank you.

[@andinobikes6948]

un capo el bigotee

[@ClarClipz]

I have a problem with my cranks so they are tightened very well but they move up and down the cap that is over the bearings is moving up and down

[@Ben-db5re]

Could I use oil / GT85 instead?

[@davidschram5016]

Calvin, love your vids. I'm trying to get my SRAM GX crank off a DUB on a 2019 Trek Remedy so I can change the chainring (direct mount)...but I can't get the thing to move at all. This one removes from the drive side and I'm positive I'm trying to loosen counter clockwise. Should it be this hard to remove?

[@davidschram5016]

FYI, I got it... just a 3' steel pipe on the hex wrench and another attached to the crank... plenty of torque and it popped loose. And yes, a big crack sound as that Loctite seal breaks.

[@mochno1]

specialized sworks power cranks? with OSBB?

[@alexanderkorchagin67]

Thanks for video. Question. How mesure tighten for self-extractor tighting ( for mine it 54 N/m). Do you have special adapters, say for 1/2 inch common tools?

[@parktool]

The self extractor ring may say "54NM" on it but it is often referring to the torque for the crank bolt itself. 8-10Nm is good for most extractor rings with the use of thread locker but is often not measurable if a pin spanner is used.

[@eduardohowcomedf6971]

Within a moment's notice something brake's on mountain bike don't have special tool to unloosen bottom bracket both sides there's always something that can alternate as long as it grabs hold on the bracket teeth to loosen off there's always something .

[@ashab1]

I'm having a hard time getting it back on the bolt is tight but it's not pulling all the way back on cleaned and greased lightly but it's only going back on halfway!?!!?

[@ollieh98]

I have a one piece crank arm with removal pins. And I cannot remove it. Does anyone have any tips to help?

[@Pienimusta]

Love the system, but 54 Nm torque is a lot to remove.

[@jessiecruz5581]

in my fsa gossamer i have to tiggten the crankbolt to avoid play or loose but it will affect the rotation of bb bearing..what was my wrong mistake of installing it? pls help

[@MarcMkKoy00]

I see a couple of different Park Tool Pin Spanners available. How do I know which one to get? You used an orange (or red) one, but I also see a green. What's the difference?

[@parktool]

You want the largest pin that will fit the hole in the part you are working on. The green SPA-1 has pins of 2.9mm diameter. The red SPA-2 as pins of 2.3mm.

[@carlosivcruzhernandez5370]

Partool pon los videos en español porfavor

[@trekworldracing9787]

I didn't have grease for the install so i used washing up liquid. Also the cranks aligned at 360 degrees not 180 with torque values of 40 olivia newton millimetres. My question is this: How long do i have left to live?

[@MiltSchreiber]

Should work well for a few days. Use kangaroo pedaling technique. :-)

[@lucianonarno1408]

I mean, any water will make that washing up liquid go away. I’d say get some grease and do it again ASAP.

[@sveinungengvik7192]

Hi! Great video. My problem is that the crank gets too tight before the center bolt is fully tightened. Any suggestions? Thanks.

[@parktool]

There is then a problem with the pre-load. If this is a 2-piece crank, there is sometimes a system of washers, or an adjustable ring. The adjuster may be too tight or an extra spacer may be in the system. The arm shouldn't be crushing into the bearings when fully tight.

[@sveinungengvik7192]

@@parktool okay thanks!

[@MrGrayFox0]

Very good video! I have one question: What is that wave- washer in 4:07 for. This one is missing on my current FSA- crankset. Do I really have to replace it,- and for what reason, or can I leave it out with a clear conscience? Thank you!

[@parktool]

That wave washer sets a pre load on the bearing and is needed for the crank bottom bracket to work correctly.

[@MrGrayFox0]

@@parktool Does that mean, it's necessary to replace it, or can I ignore it? Thank you!

[@kid6004]

I have a question, I know i have Self extracting cranks but once i remove the left crank arm he just pulls out the right but mine wont budge..pls help

[@parktool]

It is not uncommon for the spindle to be very snug in the bearing from corrosion and crud. Use a mallet and tap the spindle to drive the spindle free. Use a piece of wood over the spindle and a hammer if you do not have a mallet.

[@kid6004]

@@parktool ok thx!

[@milospesic5322]

Hi Calvin. At 2:50 you are holding crank of Ultegra 6500, I presume. Is that model self extracting? Thanks

[@parktool]

Yes, it is self extracting.

[@thuynh4789]

I have a FSA megaexo 12 spline bolt (ML038 M17]. Any suggestion on how to remove that?

[@parktool]

The bolt you are seeing is just like a "12 point socket", and uses a 10mm hex key.

[@JMThanz]

is there a crank where the self extracting is on the drive side? thanks

[@patrickhofman632]

jonathan mariano

[@JMThanz]

i have FSA gossamer modular, the self extracting is on the drive side

[@Paulsbikeandboard]

I tried this on my Sram NX and the crank bolt just loosened the retaining ring right along with it. Tried a few times too. I don’t really see how it wouldn’t do that since they both loosen in the same direction. Any tips for me?

[@parktool]

There have been 3 different designs for NX. One required a puller, one you used an 8 mm to loosen the inner nut and there was an outer 10mm retaining ring and now there is even one that has a 10mm hex to loosen and a pin spanner retaining ring. If you have the one with the retaining ring it would help to pull the retaining ring off, clean it up with some alcohol or other cleaner, apply a small amount of grease to the head of the bolt head that is still currently in the crank, apply a small amount of thread locker to the threads of the retaining ring and re install, torque it to manufacturer spec. Then you should be good to go. Hope this helps!

[@JS-tb9hu]

Good video, what is the point of the retaining ring?

[@404nobrakes]

J S it "retains" the crank bolt. If it weren't there, the bolt would thread out and the arm would stay on. You'd need a special tool (ie a crank puller) to safely remove it. The retaining bolt acts as a surface to push against such that loosening the crank bolt automatically pulls out the arm.

[@truantray]

? Seriously? They even cut one up for clarity...

[@juicytones]

I have a sram GXP crank and part of the 8mm bolt just broke so I just ordered a replacement kit. My question is: how to remove the 10mm retaining cap without stripping it since its such a shallow space? Is there a 10mm hex key with a pilot to keep it stable and secure?

[@parktool]

There is no pilot system we have seen. Use good technique and press as you turn. Look for the arrows on the cap. These tend to be left hand thread, so turn right to loosen.

[@juicytones]

@@parktool thanks and fingers crossed 🤞 I can make it work.

[@barrycoomer8137]

Superb video ..... I can put the hammer away now ! I was gonna go all caveman on my bike !

[@dan__11]

Спасибо. Даже без русских титров всё понятно!

[@Artemstorozhuk]

У тебя ебало в Белгороде упало, подними

[@edycabute4579]

Fellow cyclist i have question What if my crank don't have Lock cover ?

[@havadatequila]

My Campagnolo Potenza ring/bolt loosens for about 90 degrees of turning, but then gets quite a bit harder. Is that normal resistance?

[@havadatequila]

Update: Yes, the resistance is normal, just had to crank on thru the resistance and viola! it came off.

[@alexandrostzamtzis7556]

Hi my friend! I have fsa comet crankset and I try to remove the left crank first and is not coming out.What other options I have?

[@parktool]

When you loosen the crank bolt does it remove the self extracting bolt as well? Or is it not moving?

[@dippster357]

I'm having the same problem my friend, What i did was spray some penetrating oil on it and i'm gonna wait until the next day to try again, I will also get a persuader which is a 3 foot pipe i slide the end of the wrench into to help with leverage that should help me so i don't have to strain to remove it because i don't have a torque wrench but i see it's something that i need so i guess i will buy one. because i'm using the penetrating oil to loosen that part i know when putting it back together i need to grease it up, just saying because someone will read this and say i should do that. I know that so i will.

[@pauli1968]

What size pin spanner did you use. Kind regards, Paul

[@parktool]

For these crank systems usually the SPA-2 with 2.2mm diameter pins.

[@jamesduffy2047]

need help with my bottom bracket removal, I have a specialised sport pitch 650b and i want to remove my bottom bracket, i have used an 8mm allen key with excessive force but no movement is occurring, so just need some advice of what to do??

[@parktool]

That model appears to have a three piece crankset, with a square tapered cartridge. It does not appear to have a "self extracting" remover system. Use the 8mm remove the bolts, and then a crank puller such as the CWP-7 to pull the arms. After that you can see the type of bottom bracket inside. The bottom bracket likely takes a BBT-22 for removal.

[@jamesduffy2047]

Park Tool cheers Thankyou very much

[@openbeta843]

Do you need to first tighten the pin spanner before you loosen the crank?

[@parktool]

Normally not. However, it is good to check the security of that cap from time to time.

[@openbeta843]

@@parktool ok, thanks!

[@matteomcmillan2595]

Do I remove the retaining ring then loosen the main bolt? haven’t understood

[@parktool]

Leave the ring in place. The ring is what allows the bolt to remove the crank.

[@allanbuttery5297]

Why was the SPA-3 Pin Spanner dissolved ?

[@parktool]

The SPA-3 was a spanner for notched lockrings. Most lockrings now are higher torque, and the SPA-3 was not a good tool for such tight fittings. Sales simply dropped out.

[@27jezus]

mine FSA needs a 10mm allen key. Just sayin. Giant Trance model

[@richlaw666]

wish I could afford a set of park tools only have 1 . have to usually buy cheaper stuff

[@joelng1775]

my retaining rings fell off my crank and i was wondering if i try to fit the ring back can the crank be remove? as of now without the retaining ring my crank arm wont come out. please help thanks

[@parktool]

If you have the ring, put it back. There is also sometimes a washer, if you have that. It should still work. Make sure the ring is tight.

[@joelng1775]

okay thanks:)

[@carlosvazquez8563]

Hi, Can I remove the spindle off the crank ?

[@parktool]

In some cases you can. What cranks do you have?

[@sir_jerhyn]

I have Sram S300 crankset on my track bike, I lost my self-extracting cap while riding, the 8mm is still in there holding it together. How can I remove the left crankarm without the extractor?

[@parktool]

You should be able to get another extractor for that crank. That would be the best option.

[@user-bv3lr3en2q]

does this mean that this crankset do not have bottom brackets? they are integrated/sealed?

[@parktool]

It only means the crank does not use a special puller to be removed from the bike. There is still a bottom bracket.

[@alifafifudin9557]

I had problem with My fsa SL-K roadbike crankset, I try to remove it by turning the hex key to left (anti-clockwise)at beginning it really hard to turn it, after struggling its become loosen then it's not removing.. I think the bolt has been damage or loosen .. How can I remove it??my purpose to remove it is to replace bottom bracket bearing ..and my question is what is the function of retaining cap?? last time I already remove these crankset without adjusting the retaining cap and that was successful.

[@parktool]

These can be difficult to remove at times. Begin by using the correct sized wrench to turn the center bolt clockwise a bit, away from the cap. If there is some free movement of the bolt between clockwise and anti-clockwise, use some chain lubricant inside the cap. Lay the bike so the bolt is upward and work it back and forth to help the lubricant spread. Double check the retaining cap is tight. Get the bike vertical and arrange the tool for good mechanical advantage with the two levers (the wrench and the opposite arm). Push down on the crank wrench while pulling upward on the opposite crank.

[@alifafifudin9557]

@@parktool kzbin.info/www/bejne/rorHnXWuecl0eq8 my problem

[@levon5574]

cant remove one of my crank arms on a sram as there is some toothed washer inside googled it for hours cant find it

[@parktool]

If you send a picture over to [e-mail] I will let you know what you have. Cheers! T.

[@raphaelroshwalb5500]

Hi I oopsied and removed my cap for the self spindle arm thing and used a crank puller instead, what should I do now

[@parktool]

If the crank puller fit, then it should remove the arm. Many caps however use a large thread (24, 25mm, etc) and there is no puller tool for these. You will need to get a replacement cap in these cases.

[@raphaelroshwalb5500]

@@parktool I have the sram eagle truvativ thingy(it's impossible to read the text on the crank) it worked fine and I reassembled my crank all fine and dandy thanks for the help

[@paulaus]

I bought a cheap used bike and the self extracting retaining ring is missing. Any hacks to get the cranks off. They are damaged I don't want to spend money on a new ring.

[@paulaus]

So I removed the rubber cap from the crank bolt and was able to install the outer section of my CP22 Crank Puller over the top in place of the retaining ring. Then used Allen to self extract the crank. Bodgy but it worked.

[@parktool]

Good work!

[@aloharay]

good thinking!

[@jamescooper5047]

I’ve sheared off my self extracting bolt on my sr suntour zeron cranks how can I get the crankset out I’ve got a brand new crankset and bb I just need it out

[@parktool]

Did the bolt break or did the extractor ring break? If the extractor ring broke you may be able to use a pick to unthread whats left so that you can use a crank puller to extract the crank. Or you can try riding the bike with the crank bolt quite loose, till the crank arm comes loose.

[@jamescooper5047]

@@parktool not to worry I ended up cutting the left crank arm off as I was replacing the cranks and bb anyway

[@markj.a351]

I have the same FSA crankset which was used to demonstrate. After taking out to put new grease on it keeps coming loose (the big allen key bolt) while riding. Does anyone know what could be the cause of this? I don't have a 40nm torque wrench but even when it was obviously too tight it still happened after about 40km.

[@parktool]

40Nm takes quite a bit of effort. Assume holding a wrench 6-inches from the bolt (15cm). Now consider a one-arm curl, as in lifting weights. It would be similar to the effort of lifting nearly 90 pounds (40 kilos). You should use the opposite arm to help the leverage, but as you can see, it is a substantial effort.

[@markj.a351]

@@parktool Thank you so much for the reply.

[@chrisfielder4650]

I’ve had the same problem, with the crank continually coming loose- so thanks to Park Tools for this reply. Basically to tighten it with more force than you’d imagine 😬

[@markj.a351]

@@chrisfielder4650 In the end i just bought a cheap torque wrench that could do 40nm. Well worth it.

[@wishnuwardhana6583]

What the different between spa 1 (green) and spa 2 (red)?

[@parktool]

Green handled SPA-1 has pin diameter of 2.9mm. Red handled SPA-2 has pin diameter of 2.3mm Use the largest that will fit.

[@wishnuwardhana6583]

@@parktool OK, terima kasih banyak (thank you so much). I from Indonesia, and I trust Park Tool for fixing my bike, cause the metal is good quality...👍👍👍

[@kevinyang367]

seems i can't remove my crank arm because I'm too weak to turn the hex wrench

[@graphics_dev5918]

get a longer hex wrench

[@KeithB45acp]

what size is the pin spanner?

[@parktool]

The SPA-2 is 2.2mm pins.

[@cgriff2207]

First time I'm taking mine off and it's massively stuck (2 piece)

[@budycelyn]

mine was so stuck it cracked the retaining ring :(

[@cgriff2207]

Mediocre MTBer I Just needed more leverage in the end

[@jhobaugh45]

A lot of Park Tool videos suggest greasing threads then installing to proper torque with torque wrench (see 3:30). Do NOT DO THIS!!...unless directed to do so in the OEM service instructions. You can unknowingly over-torque the fastener either by hand feel or while getting the correct reading on a torque wrench, due to the lubricant on threads. Keep reading for proof/explanation. A threaded fastener is just two sloped planes (think of a block sliding down a wedge) that are curved around the bolt/nut. The "torque" measurement is the force to overcome the friction between the two planes, and if there is lubricant, you have to exert much more torque (or normal force on the block/wedge) to get the same friction that will stop the torque wrench (or get the right force feel by hand). I learned about this concept from training offered by the Society of Automotive Engineering for work, but it was really driven home first hand when I snapped a bolt with a torque wrench. The bolt threads had accidentally got some oil on the threads (installing an oil filter cover on a motorcycle), and as I tightened the bolt using a torque wrench, the head popped completely off. What a horrible feeling...Luckily there was enough bolt exposed to get the rest of it out of the engine block with pliers, but lessons learned!

[@lunam7249]

crank bolts are ALWAYS to tight, never tighten to the specs