Log splitter Upgrades

[@williamthedriller1546]

I wish more people were like you...I am thankful for your honesty

[@monicawhite5352]

Great video and effort CTSCAPER! We live & learn. Those who have the guts to learn & try new things are the ones who will continually be rewarded by trying & learning new things. And that's a good thing; if it doesn't end up being detrimental. Spectators seldom learn to do anything, because they are mere spectators. As a result, spectators do what they do best: sit & watch. They will seldom learn to do anything on their own accord. But they are very quick to watch and criticize the efforts of others. It's the old "Man in the Arena" principle. Never worry about the spectators or "sideliners" of the world. They will continue to sit where they are most comfortable. While you stand being the "Man in the Arena!" Thank you for all of the log splitter upgrades demonstrated.

[@keithrayeski6417]

We learn from our mistakes. You are to be commended for sharing the failure so others learn...no shame there! I like the Timberwolf design at the exit...other splitters the rounds roll out the sides which makes the extensions difficult to work around. The Timberwolf doesn’t impede your operation or make you reach across. Nice piece.

[@johnkillen588]

thank you for being a man and exposing your failures.......it saves the next guy that can learn by wisdom vs experience............YOU ARE A GOOD MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@irvinggoldberg5365]

Live & learn. Winners don't quit and quitters don't win. Never stop trying. Great video!

[@campbellstubbs1181]

I live in Australia and you Americans have it so easy with splitting wood. Your wood just splits beautifully. Our wood is so hard but at least it lasts longer in the fire

[@CTSCAPER]

It's ok. You've got us beat with the weather.

[@harrypehkonen]

I really appreciate you showing this. I have a fairly new-to-me splitter, and keep wondering about how it would fail. Reading the comments also gave a great idea for how to fix it too (drill/pin is my favourite for this).

[@RobertViani]

Great video. I've had my TWP-1 for about 8 years and I love it cutting 8+ cord a year. I cut smaller size firewood and I've thought about those spacers....not anymore. Thanks for keeping it real and posting the good the bad and the ugly!

[@tylerfisher4122]

It's not because of the spacers it's because he didn't set the valve

[@williamgarrity9482]

Take to a welding shop ,your welcome .God bless yall real good.

[@CTSCAPER]

Thanks 👍

[@anewrnn]

Thx for showing the mishap... That's what happens in the real world, we all want our tools to run optimally. You saved us all time and money!!! And lesson learned.

[@blackwell1384]

I have the same log splitter and I love it. I have to admit I thought about using something to stop the ram returning all the way. After watching this I checked my ram and the ram must bottom out in the cylinder because it doesn’t bottom out against the housing as some of the commenters think it does

[@georgedudek1859]

Hey, live and learn like most of us.I was liking the ring idea on the shaft till the fail, thanks for sharing and the education, good luck with your repair.

[@joevanvalkenburg]

Drill a hole in the clevis and rod then install hitch pin easy repair $500 is hurts when a hitch pins are $2.50

[@terristurkie5975]

No such thing as failure as long as your trying to improve plus learning from mistakes is always a good thing

[@CTSCAPER]

That's a great attitude!

[@michaeldoidge1838]

I have the same log splitter and use those spacers. Never one issue.

[@CTSCAPER]

Interesting! Perhaps all the comments about there already being damage on my splitter were right.

[@michaeldoidge1838]

@@CTSCAPER Buying used. You never know what you get. Maybe the bolt was lose and it just pulled apart. You definitely made me check mine.

[@CTSCAPER]

@@michaeldoidge1838 Many people watching the video said the part that broke was already broken because they saw rust on the break. It ended well and I have an amazing log splitter that will last, theoretically, forever. They don't make them like they used to!

[@daveboyt6810]

I tried something similar. Seemed like a good idea at the time. As soon as I realized the cylinder has to be fully retracted for the detent to kick out, I stopped using it. Maybe some sort of adjustable linkage from the splitting plate to the valve so that it physically kicks it off. Or a position activated solenoid. I don't see the threaded rod as a poor design, since the splitter was never designed to pull tension on the threads in the first place, but i agree that welding or pinning it would be a good fix. Thanks for the video. The PVC oil catcher alone made the video worthwhile. Keep at it and stay safe!

[@danvize4284]

your cylinder doesn't have to fully retract, it's all babased on pressure

[@philliphall5198]

The collor are for resting the cly, not really for preventing travel Mostly used for depth control of plowing etc

[@Lanninglongarmmowing]

Great video! Why not weld the ram to the cylinder?

[@Lanninglongarmmowing]

***** Yeah good point. It probably would have worked though.

[@Lanninglongarmmowing]

***** Yeah i do a lot of improvising. Being at the bottom of the pay pole I have to do it a lot.

[@Lanninglongarmmowing]

mackthefatcat Chuckee2009 has some videos about welding different kinds of materials together. It's not ideal for sure, but it might work.

[@Lanninglongarmmowing]

mackthefatcat Yeah I see what you mean. Good point.

[@GTObearclaw1]

+mackthefatcat + what about welding it and trying it out before assuming it wouldn't work and throwing money at new parts. if you put the shaft all the way into the threaded hole and weld it, there would be no pressure on the weld during the push stroke. Look at the tip of the shaft, it has a collar. Only pressure on the weld should be when ram is returning from the push stroke. Just a thought. I like to experiment with things like that. Especially when it can save me money. If the parts are going to be replaced any way I figure it's worth a try.

[@vincewaldock7921]

I made adjustable rod on push block to hit valve spool to adjust return stroke. Works better than detent.

[@CTSCAPER]

That sounds like a much better solution. I need to do that.

[@matthewkitzmann8585]

if you set the detent adjustment in the valve it would have kicked out prior to having enough pressure to cause that damage

[@mikewolff5184]

Too bad about your splitter but you saved someone else some money (and a headache!) thanks for sharing.

[@CTSCAPER]

That's a great way to look at it! Thanks for watching.

[@tylerfisher4122]

It's because he didn't set the valve

[@MrBucidart]

LDU, thank you for sharing this, most of us watch videos not to learn on how to do it correct but learn on how not to do it wrong.. That's on powerful splitter to pull the threads off of the ram.....

[@lindarobinson195]

I am new at this with watching I have learned things. Tha k you for idea to catch on table. For now split big wood straight down. One man on country sliter had string or road. I was surprised I can use that short time as a rest and thing so big but machine works and splits most of the time. Yours truly Evans w Robinson ret sgt

[@50AHenry]

I have already commented previously on this video. I say AGAIN I do not believe this is your fault and thank you for alerting the rest of us !!!

[@CTSCAPER]

Thanks Bruce. When I replaced the cylinder they said there was rust on the threads and the splitter probably saw a fair share of abuse before I got it. I don't use the splitter a ton but it works like a champ since the repair.

[@lt1jon]

just drill it and pin it

[@KingAverage-pn9us]

lt1jon. good man

[@xXxCatsnakexXx]

Exactly!

[@rossmcclure8578]

@Flatus Antiquitous welding the cast knuckle would weaken that more than drilling and pinning

[@dngendron]

Yup

[@kebo57]

Looked to me like the threads were already partly crossed up, and the one time the ram or cylinder retracted too much, with those cylinder stroke limiters in place, was the last straw that made the pushing block come off. Those threads just looked to me like the pushing block had already been working itself loose?

[@fredscheerle7592]

Are ypu sure it's the fault of those spacers and not that that bolt that puts tension on the threaded section coming loose, as it flopped around on the compression stroke prior. You could get some one to welt it together again

[@jasondreckmann3396]

Ive operated lots of hydrolic equipment and witnessed many identical failures. looking at the wear and rust on the threaded end, it looks like it had been loose for some time. I dont think the travel controllers caused the failure, they just expedited it.

[@rookie1514]

Agreed but easy fix. Attend a local machine shop and borrow their tap and die set to carve out new threads. Alternatively screw it back on as is and tack weld it in 2-3 spots.

[@TheSlagman0]

Just weld it no problem. I've welded cylinders on big farm implements and had no problem at all !

[@RICHIE_RICH89]

I see air going in my clear hydraulic line but the spittle is full on hydraulic oil. Does it need to be bleed I did blow the bleed cap out. My splitter has a bolt threw the ram it's 36 ton. I'd have the ram rebuilt or tapped or weld the bastard on. Not sure what can be done but you can get rams rebuilt.

[@andrewsmith1606]

Great video, love the drain pipe mod.

[@bjemdwbesq3]

QUESTION: I've been reading the comments and some of you seem to think that adding the spacers was okay and shouldn't harm anything and others say that it's not designed to operate that way and should only automatically kick out at the end of the stroke or cylinder. So which is it? I asked because someone used my splitter (not me) and placed a stick of wood behind the back side of the wedge to stop it from going back so far and now when you retract it hydraulic fluid is just pouring out. So I'm wondering if that could have damaged it.

[@TheGoodoftheLand]

Thanks for the tip, I'm glad you left it in the Video! Great production an the video BTW, earned you a new subscriber!

[@nicholascremato]

I believe that the stripped cylinder rod was like that when you got it and it looks like its held in place with Balzone or weld epoxy. Have a machine shop put a pin in it and try again.

[@johnmyers6097]

That's what I call a live and learn mistake. There was no personal injury, now you can scratch that idea off the books. Happy splitting, John

[@StumpAway]

You can drill and add a pin or weld it which would be my method, no need to replace cylinder over that, that's an easy fix. Like the oil drain thing though

[@michaelowen1750]

if the return detent is set to trip at just over the pressure needed to return the push block, it won't strip the threads like that.. from what i saw, that looks like a fatigue issue- not from just once or twice...

[@CTSCAPER]

I'm so happy to hear it was fatigue and not my experiment. I don't like breaking equipment. It deserves better.

[@zlindauer5315]

if you restrict a cylinder over time the ram will rust where its not inside, then if you start using the entire stroke youll tear up seals. also hard pipe your drain looks alot cleaner. nice video, nice splitter.

[@frostzillathespatulizer6675]

self proclaimed "thinking man" hahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahhahahahhahahahahahhahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahahhhahahahahahahahahhahahahhahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahhahahahahhahahahahahhahahahahhahahahahahahhahahahah!

[@jasonbrown7258]

I got the same type of cylinder on my splitter been fine for 20 years. I think what happened is the lock bolt for the thread lock wasn't tight enough and the detent on the valve was not set correctly causing to much pressure on the return.

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

That clevis coming off the ram threads of your splitter surprised me, didn't expect that.

[@lgnigh]

Where did you get the 4 way splitter?

[@Miv-cu1yt]

Why don't you weld the end back on the hydraulic ram?

[@notcharles]

Push the end back onto the cylinder rod, put it under pressure (OAK LOG?). then drill a hole trough the fitting and cylinder rod and the other side of the fitting and pin it. Without looking at your fix, you can't blame the MFG because you installed an accessory the MFG neither supplied nor so much as suggested. So much for your "Best Log Splitter Ever" endorsement. I do like the little add on that splits the log into four sections with each 'pull.' Good luck!

[@fredhart5033]

They use something like this on farm implements to control the depth the plow or disk goes into the ground, but I think it’s a one way cylinder action only, Just lifts the implement up, down is controlled by weight of implement

[@RANDOG1951]

You write, Now that it's fixed I feel much better. What did you do or have someone do to get her running again? I had a couple ideas but in the comments below, others had similar ideas like mine. Stay warm.

[@garywinters2282]

Did you ever do an update video on this?

[@tkguyok]

Well, how did everything go?

[@ferguson20diesel49]

Or you could weld it up. It depends on how long the ram is and if the weld will damaged the seals

[@treylem3]

Informative for sure, but don't try to reinvent the wheel. I think the log catch grate is a good idea, I have one on mine but it's parallel to plunger on one side, to catch half of a huge piece of wood on initial split. Thanks

[@robbooth7904]

thanks for the advice. I try to learn from not only my mistakes,but from others also.

[@CTSCAPER]

I knew there was a reason I make so many mistakes. :-)

[@jamesjohnson6239]

What makes this the "best splitter "? Ive got the tsc 22 ton, it's split ALOT of wood .had it 12 yrs now . It has wedge on the ram and i always run it vertically, who wants to heft every round up onto the I beam ? Especially when your splitting BIG wood! just my thoughts. great videos! ! Keep em coming!

[@donfrank4429]

I made a table like yours for my Barreto log splitter, it works nice

[@oisinhayes8761]

can you please tell me what type hydraulic pump you have on it

[@emiliojorge5794]

Sorry dude How much did that put u back ?

[@HeltonLogging]

rethread it or weld it on

[@jasondreckmann3396]

Thomas Helton welding on a hydrolic cylinders shaft is usually only a temporary fix, ive never seen it hold up very long. In a pinch its fine, but I would never reccomend it on any equipment where the operator is in close proximity to cylinder.

[@asherdie]

Jason Dreckmann many factory cylinder ends are welded on. You know nothing.

[@matthewbolton4289]

drilll and pin much easier. taps and dies that size are $$

[@markw2266]

I don't think you did anything wrong. If you got a log really jammed you would need to chain it off using the threads the same way for a back pull.

[@jeremylandphier692]

Why would they thread the cyl shaft into the log pusher , those threads look like they were chewed up before you bought it !

[@craigschiller1599]

Collars are for plough rams etc that have a valve that opens on end of ram when clevice bottoms on it. For this set up would need ti adjust kick out pressure on valvebody if it has it or going to rip end of ram off all the time.

[@nicholascremato]

I don't see how the control rings did that?

[@michaelsalyer7243]

The stroke controls I’ve used were used on a batwing bush hog to control cut height. As opposed to pulling away from the cylinder they are intended for the working load to apply pressure against the cylinder and the attachment on the end of it. An expensive lesson but there is no success without some failures

[@EasternExplorer]

Seen that coming a mile away...There is just as much pressure in that cylinder going backwards as there is going forwards. when your pusher hit the stoppers the cylinder wasn't at the end of its stroke and your log splitter has an auto reverse control valve that automatticly kicks out at the end of the stroke so it was bound to happen.

[@buildthings79]

To all you people saying just to put a hitch pin in it. How much do you think a hitch pin will hold before it sheers off? Not 25 tons I can promise you that. Because that's how much force a cylinder that big can exert on the retract stroke. Its even more on the extend stroke ( subtract the surface area of the rod diameter ). The reason it failed was because the cylinder company that built it used cheap cast iron and a bad thread job on the clevis end. Normally a cylinder will bottom out on the cup nut inside it but should still be able to retract the rod with a full load on the clevis. Should be able to weld the end of the rod to form a head that will not be able to pull through the clevis end. Cylinder rod is made from 1045 or 1055 steel which welds very nice. Grind the chrome off first then paint that spot.

[@randypistritto7043]

If both ends are stripped of threads, you have nothing to loose if you weld the end of the ram to the stripped head mount. It won't hurt a the machine or ram and will last the life of the machine. Much cheaper then a new hydraulic cylinder and head mount. Look at u-tube videos of other wood splitters. More then half are welded.

[@ryanolander457]

Great video just subscribed

[@lewiemcneely9143]

You'd have to turn down the pressure on the kick out to keep the rod from pulling out. They're adjustable. I put a gauge on mine to be able to set and tell what's happening. BUT the best thing I did was to swap the foot and wedge around. Now I don't have to run the split pieces down every time.

[@lewiemcneely9143]

***** True and I'm getting one that's not but if it dies I'll get a Prince that is.

[@methatswho51]

no detent on the valve??????

[@ianc435]

The cylinder limits can be done inside the cylinder if you like. Steel pipe

[@KDuboutdoors19]

Welded mine. Homemade splitter, cylinder is from a komatsu dozer, 16hp kohler from a 75 c160 wheel horse tractor, 20 gpm pump, Prince valve.

[@CTSCAPER]

That's a nice splitter. It must be powerful and fast. I don't have the skills, or confidence in my skills, to go for a project like that.

[@tomn6863]

What a bummer

[@CTSCAPER]

Yes. But I picked myself up, dusted myself off, and moved on.

[@tomn6863]

@@CTSCAPER can't beat that. I learn the hard way frequently.

[@RG-wy1ol]

Thanks for sharing this video now we know what not to use .

[@Robb403]

I think the biggest log splitter regret people have is when they realize that they should have gotten one that works vertically as well as horizontally. The worst back killer is repetitively lifting heavy logs to split. With a vertical splitter, you can just sit on a bucket and roll the logs onto it. Even the splitter shown could be modified by swapping the wedge and the anvil and adding a hinge or two. It's something to consider when buying a splitter, unless you're built like a lumberjack.....

[@m16ty]

I disagree with that. I have found what is hard on my back isn't so much the weight of the wood as it is having to work bent over, even sitting on a bucket. My solution is to leave the splitter horizontal and add a lift to raise the wood up to splitter height.

[@johnfranklin4038]

I like the "Split Second" splitters. They are much faster and don't use hydraulics so are much cheaper to repair/maintain.

[@CTSCAPER]

I like the Super Splitter types as well. It has a mechanical action and it's like splitting with a self propelled axe. If only I had the budget to get one.

[@johnfranklin4038]

***** Yeah, the kinetic splitters work great as long as you have heavy enough flywheels. Brother made one himself using one of those big bumper jacks. Uses a flywheel made out of a tire/rim from a pickup truck. He cut a hole in the tread of the tire about 2 inch in diameter and poured in concrete. It provides plenty of kinetic OOMPH to split the 36-40" long logs he burns in his outside furnace. Had automatic vents to control combustion and a blower that kicks on/off to warm up his house. Fills up the burner and it burns all night with plenty of coals left in morning to throw in a few more sticks and continue burning. Has an auger in bottom that cranks out the ashes that he spreads on his garden during the winter and disks it 3 or 4 times during the winter to work it in and plows deep in the springtime before planting. woops, turned into a wall O text there, sorry, lol

[@darrylwbraun]

There is no way that should have happened. That cylinder should be able to lift or pull it's load without failing. What if you'd used that cylinder for a front end loader and you were using it to retract and rotate a bucket full of sand. If you overload the cylinder it should simply stall, not come apart. In other words... you did nothing wrong.

[@mikesharon6868]

Darryl Braun that is why u dont use a threaded rod end. A drilled rod is the only choice for an application like this

[@billwalls2196]

Darryl Braun has

[@_P0tat07_]

I agree. Hydraulic cylinders are designed to push and pull with a lot of force. It could be a manufacturing defect in the piston and the linkage, which unfortunately, manufacturing defects do happen. Nothing’s perfect. I’m going to say it likely wasn’t entirely the stroke length clips that solely caused it. When the cylinder returns to its seated position it jacks up the pressure causing a valve to open which disengages the feed. Or, that’s how my splitter works anyway. Maybe his splitter didn’t have it?

[@bryancromwell9625]

Completely agree, no way this should have occurred

[@frodehau]

Sorry, loaders have a trough pin or are welded.

[@Breezer56]

Let us know what the dealer says. This is something many want to try or have tried. Some people mount steel tubing across on the cylinder. As for the carnage, you could take it to a local dealer and have them rebuild the cylinder or weld the end on it as both are in bad shape anyways!

[@stanleykeith6969]

Just get a Good Welder, some one that can weld. There are other video's out there that can show you how to make a leaver that shuts the stroke off. I think Andrew made one on his channel, The Kelley's Country Life. see reply below.

[@stanleykeith6969]

Number 236 Speeding up log splitter cycle time round # 2! Tractor supply log splitter. Andrew made this himself, you must watch the whole video till the end.

[@CTSCAPER]

I gotta say, that was an impressive modification. Where I am now with my splitting I probably wouldn't do it but it would speed up the process for sure.

[@Mike588]

It shouldn't matter, your return kick out should have still been, cutting off the cylinder, no matter where you put the spacers. Please explain.

[@EitriBrokkr]

it's a great idea, you just need to turn your pressure relief valve down, or add one to the system

[@SuperQuickfix1]

At least the piston didn't come undone from the slug in the cylinder. Happen to mine because the splitting wedge had a flat spot that cought on the wood and caused the piston to rotate, unscrewing it. Now the hydraulic fluid is entering both sides pushing the piston out. Happens so fast and once out the only way to retract it is undo the hydraulic line to the detent valve. Moral, as slow as they go never get your hands near the wedge.

[@FishFind3000]

Is this a reupload?

[@joeydees3140]

Drilling a hole sounds great to someone who has never touched a ram from a good hydraulic cylinder they are extremely hard it would take a few bits to get through

[@50AHenry]

Hi, I am certainly NOT going to say what a stupid idea this was. You, like most of us would not anticipate the problem. PERHAPS and engineer or hydraulics expert might foresee the issue, but not the general population. I do appreciate you alerting and warning the rest of us. THANK YOU !!!

[@MRALBERT571]

We uses those stops on farm equipment all the time never had a problem like that, as said before threads were rusty so had been loose and check detente presure.

[@frodehau]

Easy to fix. Drill a hole an put a pin in it. Better than new. These stroke limiters are for simpler splitters with a springloaded return.

[@MegaDavyk]

Those cylinder stroke controls would work for a single acting ram with return springs but defiantly not suitable for double acting rams.

[@jeffsims7386]

Very easy ways to fix that, many listed here. Besides those, you can get a new piston, NOT the whole cylinder, if you've ever worked with hydraulic cylinders you know it's really pretty simple to open it up and install a new piston and a whole lot cheaper than purchasing the whole new assembly.

[@CTSCAPER]

Unfortunately that's beyond my skill level at this point but I'll keep it in mind for next time.

[@atomatom6442]

Great easy to watch vid. And the Timber Wolf series is for the true PRO!!

[@ronmiller4865]

I had the same thing , all I did was attach the end to cylinder and weld it. A lot cheaper

[@jimrerko3415]

We all make mistakes we'll only human but we need to learn from our stupid mistakes. God bless.

[@taurus4205]

The best way to learn sometimes is the hard way. No worries!!

[@Matt.Jungfleisch]

Can you chase the cylinder shaft with a nut ? Same size so to speak. And then thread the new threads into the plate. Live and learn we all do. You just show us in your videos. Thanks !

[@niklar55]

A machine shop should be able to weld over the stripped rod end and re thread it. The ram end can be bored out and a threaded insert fitted, or maybe welded and re drilled and threaded. The ram would need to be dismantled, so a new seal kit would be a good purchase beforehand.

[@CTSCAPER]

Wow! You sound like you know your stuff. I'll have to look up a machine shop next time and see what they can do.

[@niklar55]

***** I worked on forklift trucks for several years, and I'm a qualified engineer. There are alternative methods, depending on the machine shop facilities. One could be to roll/reform the threads, on the rod. A cheap and simple home solution, would be to thoroughly clean, and just epoxy glue/putty the rod end on, but that could be just a temporary solution, given the cyclic loading of the ram, and may compromise the dismantling of the ram for servicing. Another could be to just drill through the rod and end piece, and put a spring pin through it. The spring pin would ensure a tight fit. The saying, 'there are more ways of killing a cat, than drowning it in cream,' applies to this.

[@amerikanstafford]

On top of the axe drill a hole and also through the cylinder where the thread is and fastens the ax to the cylinder with a screw.The screw must extend through the ax and cylinder and the nut must be inserted.The screw must be such that the ax has air on the cylinder and it must not be tight on the cylinder.The roller should only pull the ax back but when the ax is pushed forward there is no load.I hope you understand what I mean because I don't speak English very well.

[@digbyodell2924]

That was funny though when the cylinder retracted without the head. That Timberwolf looks just low enough to be a pain in the back and if it's a one man operation, I much prefer the splitter to be on the cylinder so I can stack or load the pieces three to six at a time as they're made instead of picking them up another time.

[@m16ty]

Those stops are really made for a single acting cylinder, they shouldn't have hydraulic force against them or things like this happen. It's a old video so I'm sure you've got it fixed now, but I would just weld the yoke on the rod. Welding isn't ideal, but the cylinder is junk otherwise so you don't loose anything by welding it.

[@tombo552001]

You might try using a oil squirt can to fill the engine.

[@hellohun7331]

Drill the hole in the end piece thru , if not already thru and weld it from the back side.

[@augustreil]

A little oil film on stuff is good, keeps shit from rusting. Run a tap through the wedge and thread chaser on the ram then spray carb cleaner to clean it and red lock tight it on, done. And, if your splitter can't go vertical, it really limits to what you can pick up yourself. Jmo. Thanks.

[@thebuchanans2002]

those blocks are used for farm machinery, it's only for gravity to not settle a cylinder while ur riding down the road or field etc.. they were never meant or intended to have any hydraulic pressure pushing against them.

[@CTSCAPER]

That makes a lot of sense.

[@lowkeylogic303]

there are stops that bolt to the I beam that are supposed to stop the ram also. there is no way those threads should ever pull out. I'd say that was due to a manufacturer defect not operator error.

[@memyself3275]

Ive used those cylinder stops for years. Chances are something happened to this machine before you bought it off of CL.

[@scottcarr3264]

Clean the thread on the rod and in the clevis and screw them together, drill a 1/4" or 5/16" hole through clevis and rod thread and drive a pin through, throw those spacers away and it should be OK, because you are primarily "pushing" with it, it only needs the pin to pull the plate back. A hydraulic always bottoms out inside the base of the cylinder itself.