Cyclekart Build - Part 7 - Engine Bay and Torque Converter Clearancing

[@Yosser70]

Nice work mate. Definitely going to take some of your ideas for my build. I’m not using a diff but getting the weight down like that is a good idea.

[@olsonspeed]

Bombproof engine compartment, you should never have any issues with that part of your CK. Listen to what others have to say... Do what YOU want.

[@MrAussieCrasher]

This is going to do wheelies with all that weight at the back . Good job

[@TedTucholski]

Certainly will be tail heavy.. Hope the front wheels stay down while turning.

[@timsimpson4579]

Grinding aluminum is a recipe for blowing up a wheel, very dangerous. Your spot on, flapper wheel to remove.

[@holzbrian7049]

Ready for 200mph!!

[@kennethlindahl9206]

I am watching your build eagerly I had first cut fever when I built my mini boat Now I want to build one of these I know I will want to build more so I will build 3 frames at the same time, but totally basic square and straight then mod the frames as needed I am thinking of a tow truck ..but I first will build a 32- 36 chevy roadster

[@hadlock]

I kind of wish I had gone ahead and did three frames. Getting the jig setup takes so long and tacking together a frame takes just a couple of minutes once you get it dialed in

[@kennethlindahl9206]

@@hadlock that is what I figgerd If I took the time to set up I might as well make 3 frames maybe 4 if I have the money for material

[@davidparsons5019]

Looks good but how much did it weigh when finished 😮?

[@hadlock]

This is covered @ 32:20 and the answer is 51 lbs. At a minimum you need a rear cross member, a second-to-rear cross member for the engine plate to mount to, and then two transversal stringers to support the half-axles (one on either side of the differential "pumpkin"). I can measure the length of these members vs the minimum length required but I think there's only about 10-18 additional inches of steel compared to the renegade VSR frame. The good news is I have everything in CAD so I can do this objectively. I'll report the results in the next video. Great question!

[@martynsamsom8237]

How to complicate a simple requirement.

[@theosalt1]

With your set up using [what I assume is a diff] the single disk brake on the drive shaft will only brake one rear wheel!

[@hadlock]

Apparently this works quite well and will lock up both wheels

[@theosalt1]

@@hadlock On a convential car if only one rear brake is working it has disasterous results. Good luck.

[@hadlock]

Oh I see your concern. The disc is bolted directly to the differential, not the drive shaft.

[@hadlock]

Most go karts run a freewheel on one side and disc mounted directly to the live axle resulting in single wheel braking, has worked ok for almost a century. Wouldn't recommend it on a street legal car without a helmet though

[@theosalt1]

@@hadlock Got it very ingenious works like a brake on the drive shaft in a conventional car. Most gokarts in this part of the world set up for racing have both rear wheels locked.

[@timsimpson4579]

I’m interested, what did you use for a spacer between torque converter and sprocket?

[@hadlock]

A company out of Oklahoma called "renegade CycleKarts" makes that spacer. It allows the engine to sit directly on the center line when used with a peerless 100 differential axle. The lead time for renegade parts is often 6-12 weeks so I suggest you get your order in sooner than later

[@ronaldfoster2954]

Can to tell me the model number of the Peerless differential you're using? The Peerless 100-224 looks like the one that is being used.

[@hadlock]

Yes correct it's a 100-224 I have a full parts list here docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1V3ZfHabwMQpwFCbZTazfphXIyDfH9tDhXPnswl-K69o/edit?usp=drivesdk that's mostly up to date