Cylinder Heads Replacement-Part 3 [2000 Chrysler 300M]

[@lrebelo100]

Good content and good explanations and walk through of how to do this project. I hope this channel really grows. Keep up the content

[@MrTurdfergusen]

FYI, to anyone watching this video, there is a left and right Head Gasket, they were mixed up in this video, near the front of the drivers side head there is an extra hole in the head gasket, you can see the hole at the very front of the block at the botom of the screen at 12:30 on the gasket he took off, then at 13:20 you can see the hole being covered with the wrong gasket, if you go to video 4 you can see the gasket with the extra hole being installed on the other side, the extra hole in the gasket is at the rear of the engine on the other side, if you look closely you can see it. That hole in the block is for a bypass that shoots hot water down at the back of the thermostat to make it open, these engines use a slightly different cooling system set up with the thermostat on the inlet side so this bypass is required to allow teh stat to regulate properly, depending on other factors this will usually cause overheating problems, sometimes more problems will show up because of this plugged bypass when the ambient temperature is low.

[@MattsMotorz]

+MrTurdfergusen You know after this job, there still indeed was issues with this car. I had no idea as to why there were still problems as I had exhausted every possibility. So eventually I just put this car aside and it still sits outside where I live. I posed all the videos anyway as the process is what is important for people to see. However your comment has really shed some light! Next time I get a change I believe I will get two new gaskets and do this job again. If it all works out, I will do a follow up video and mention how you were the one who knew what was wrong. Thanks for your comment!

[@MrTurdfergusen]

+MattsMotorz No problem, glad I could shed some light, I did one of these a couple years ago and am about to tackle another and was just getting a refresher before I dive in, the last one I did had already been done just before I got it and it was brought to me for the overheating issue, I did some research because i couldn't figure it out and found a forum where some people were talking about how that hole can plug up with scale and cause the thermostat to not open and to avoid the major head gasket job they were deleting the factory "Inlet" thermostat and then installing a conventional "Outlet" style aftermarket thermostat housing in the upper radiator hose and it was fixing thier problems, another guy on the forum had admitted that he installed the gaskets wrong and that was his problem. The customer was pretty pissed about what he had paid for that last job so we took video of the teardown showing the gaskets installed incorrectly and he sent it to the manager at the shop and thier corporate headquarters "Loyalty Department" and he threatened to post it on youtube and they gave him a full refund, that usually never happens! The gasket manufacturers should really make a better effort to point that out in the gasket set, typical chrysler....trying to be all fancy about stuff and doing things a different way and all they did was create problems. These and every other chrysler engine "except most of their V8s...maybe" are junk and designed to fail catastrophically when one tiny thing fails. Best thing you can do for a chrysler engine to preserve its life is NEVER NEVER EVER start it, just dont turn the key and it will last forever!!!

[@MattsMotorz]

Well I am glad I am not the only one who has made that mistake! Thanks again for your comments.

[@AUDIO2AUTO]

Man that was alot of work to end up putting the head gasket on wrong and closing off the coolant passages, it really hurts my soul to see it.

[@jeng494]

MrTurdfergusen I believe the forum you mention above is the one found on the 300M Enthusiast website. It was there that I also learned about these particular issues. I highly recommend that forum to everyone wanting to learn more about the 300M and/or the LH Platform Cars, i.e. LHS, Concorde, Intrepid. I just recently paid for a membership through them, $15 per year, because of the value that I gleaned from all the information they provide. The membership fee is well worth it to me for all the benefits of membership in addition to the wealth of knowledge and experience shared throughout the forum and Knowledge Base. I now own four LH platform cars and feel confident that I can enjoy many, many years of driving pleasure and maintain them with ease because of what I have learned about them.

[@partytoy1]

I see I'm not the only one that had problems with bolts when working on my 2000 300m, a lot of the bolts on my car was so old and rusted i had to cut them off with my Dremell and buy new ones, thank god for eBay. looks like I'll have to do that same job because there is oil coming up in my spark plug cylinders, but after seeing all what you guys had to go through just to get that cover off, I think i will take it to the shop to have it done. It looks a bit trouble some, and after what I've gone though working on my car in the pass trying to get parts off with those old bolts its going to the shop. :)

[@geojor]

a lot to remember...

[@sheady7659]

Since you are working with dissimilar metals, you should coat the head bolts with anti-seize and oil under and over the head bolt washers.:>)

[@beckywatt5048]

Shea Dy You do what the mfg says.

[@donniekennedy6225]

you try to heat the bolts in the cover?

[@xushenxin]

Do you still have the camshaft? Can you sell it to me?

[@manzurdarude2948]

I have an issue with my rod knock, i have to chante the bearings or swap the motor

[@bemartythree6589]

Matt is there anyway to get to the exhaust manifold without taking the engine apart as you have? I hear a hole in it, just wanna seal it up with something?? Budget car repair, you know lol.

[@MattsMotorz]

Yes you should be able to just unbolt it in place. You might have to remove SOME stuff though. Definitely don't need to take the engine apart.

[@nerdy_diggers]

Did you have the junk yard heads resurfaced before installation?

[@bonegrubber]

My thoughts exactly...

[@CodywellerMemes]

I literally just took off the plenum and took the valve covers off and then the heads. that's it. didn't have to take anything else off. but what made you re0lace the heads anyways?

[@MattsMotorz]

If its on the Chrysler 300M with the 3.5L, then you didn't. The timing belts NEED to come off, and that requires removing the accessories, as well as the timing cover and back castings. The heads were cracked due to overheating.

[@ezequielquiroz3110]

Can you make a video on how to make torque angle meter

[@MattsMotorz]

Ezequiel Quiroz Never made one before, you can buy em cheap enough on ebay or something. (This one I am using is pretty cheap, but it gets the job done!)

[@vicentegonzales3852]

time on 6:35 he take off first bolt there oil leak is that normal cuz I thought it cracked head and I did block tester and Compressor test it all good pls reply back asap . I am doing project now

[@MattsMotorz]

Yes that is normal. Those bolts go into oil passages and when reinstalled need to have RTV on the threads.

[@vicentegonzales3852]

OK one thing freeze plug came off by itself so where water go in oil cuz it oil mix with water and thanks for reply save me alot of time I thought it cracked head

[@onthemolly]

MattsMotorz is it just one bolt or all 3

[@onthemolly]

that go into oil passages

[@hadraplana]

Aluminum heads must, after each disassembly to measure flatness, then grind and do the pressure test. This is a very poor guide :-(

[@beckywatt5048]

hadraplana You can bend the back close, we used to do it on the VW rabbit diesels and escort , but the escorts usually got a new head at $500.00 a pop.

[@robertocarlosholguinhernan3637]

that is a lot of work, l prefer buy a new car.

[@MattsMotorz]

+roberto carlos holguin hernandez Most people do :)

[@robertocarlosholguinhernan3637]

But you got the skills congrats.