Daisy Red Ryder 1938B abutment issues part 2

Greetings All,
Welcome to part two of our presentation on the ins and outs of removing/repairing/reinstalling the shot tube assembly of a current production Daisy Red Ryder or Model 1999 or Model 111B or the ubiquitous Daisy Buck. All of these guns share the same internals so this process will work if you need to remove the shot tube assembly from any of them.
I am a huge fan of older Daisy products that feature the removable shot tube but the current shot tube assembly is pretty good as well. The integrated abutment seal is a huge improvement over the older system but it's not enough of a plus to off set the removable shot tubes performance as well as it's ability to provide a spring fed feeding system that does not rely on gravity to cycle the gun.
Thanks for watching!
Questions requiring detailed answers about BB guns featured on this channel and sales and support for them please email:
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Anything else, just toss in a comment or like.

[@larryohara6513]

Thank you. That is exactly what I was looking for!

[@giuseppe4909]

It’s nice to see vids made with a good clear speaking voice, good metering and intonation. Thanks

[@RestOModDaisy]

Thanks so much. Some of my media consultants keep insisting the silent video is the way to go. Why?

[@turnyhead]

Shane, how do you get the loading port /barrel shroud out of the gun?

[@Mr.Cheehu]

You. Are. The. Man.... thanks brother Shane!💪🏽🇺🇸🤙🏽

[@frankapplegate4852]

Thank you so much for the advise. I will let you know how it goes. I thought it would maybe a long shot to get an answer but you are the man. I’ll be subscribed and alerted to your posts from now on.

[@RestOModDaisy]

Frank, thanks so much! If you run it to issues let me know and we'll see what we can do to get that Daisy up and running.

[@jackcarter1924]

hello sir, At Last I found a daisy 94. he's a bottle cap magazine and I will make all they upgrade you show here. keep the good work. thank you.

[@RestOModDaisy]

Jack, Keep us updated on your progress!

[@jackcarter1924]

okay so here we are, it was blue with white stock. it was very Rusty. show I make at Mighty spring tool, then I open it and I find black dust from the piston. I clean it up inside and outside then I put all together. I put foregrip from the daisy 1938b but the stock it is not fit. with that short bottle cap magazine he's shooting 68 meters. 25 model magazine too long for this. thank you.

[@NotSoDumb]

How do you remove the loading gate?

[@nobodyshome758]

Can you get the abutment assembly out of the gun without taking out the BB side door. If so what size tube to sleeve the barrel but still make it inside the BB door hole. Thanks for your help!

[@RestOModDaisy]

Sure! I use a length of 3/8" O/D copper pipe 18" long when I'm not pulling the BB trap. It'll fit through the trap and be big enough to slide over the air tube. You don't have to beat on it to dislodge the abutment assembly, remember it's plastic and aluminum so gently tap it it out.

[@nobodyshome758]

@RestOModDaisy Thank you sir!! Appreciate all you do!! Ive learned so much!! Take care!!

[@Uncle_S_Word]

Thank you for making these

[@russellhorner4950]

Well I got the model 98 in the mail and it's a B so I haven't taken it apart yet but it didn't have a bottle cap it had a black muzzle cap that had scotch on it and when I pulled it out the shot tube came out with it looks like it was one of these and of course the abutment assembly is either not there or left in the compression chamber. So gotta take it apart and see what is going on. Also got a Jc Higgins/ 94,a 102-36,another plymouth 94 in this shipment all need fixed. Trying to get Daisy to send me an email for parts but haven't emailed me back. So lots to do.Im enjoying this .

[@RestOModDaisy]

Russell, Nice! The Model 94's with the hook front sights and flip peep rear sights are excellent candidates for modding. All steel receivers, metal triggers and Bottlecap shot tubes allow for the maximum flexibility. Enjoy your projects and let me know if I can help.

[@daisy880fanaticfixit9]

Shane, thanks. Nobody is covering this work better. I have a more modest request related to 1938B. Can you shoot video on loading gate removal? I would like to learn that personally, and many have asked that question. Would be great if I could link them to RESTOMOD video.

[@RestOModDaisy]

I responded to this right after your request but it's not here. Hmmm. I'll see if I can get my hands on another 1938B and get a video done on that topic.

[@daisy880fanaticfixit9]

@@RestOModDaisy Shane, thanks. I don't intend to make many requests. I know your primary biz is restoring the lightening loader types. But gate removal, properly, is MUCH asked for and would bring you positive attention and traffic. Also I tried explaining to Mark KZbin moderaters do interfere, and YT isn't too gun friendly. One of my videos got restricted - to much trigger action...I guess. Wish Mark would make an appearance on the Cobalt video. He would get pinned at top. A bio on himself, his work. There are security features activated, but his comment would post. But this is your arena, and I am being supportive, BUT not just telling folks to slam on to your comments. I tell them to subscribe and BUY! My friend has many years experience on YT. That's how he told me to show respect. Hope you agree. Folks reply they are doing that!

[@RestOModDaisy]

@@daisy880fanaticfixit9 I appreciate your efforts and the fact that you like working on the newer Daisy product line and it's many quirks. I classify my channel as not suitable for kids and still get periodic notifications that some of my videos have been restricted as not suitable for children. Go figure. I agree that Mark has made significant contributions to the Daisy Modding community and, as I've said before, his thread over at The High Road forum on modding Daisy's is inspirational, informative and should motivate anyone who reads it to get cracking on improving an already great product. Especially that legacy gun handed down from previous generations. www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/putting-a-little-more-power-in-a-15-00-daisy.807316/ Mark might change his mind about doing KZbin videos, we'll just have to wait and see.

[@MichaelMares-lp1ji]

How would I remove an abundment seal from a red ryder mdl. 1938. Help! And are they available.

[@jamesparks8909]

Hi Shane,I'm having trouble whenever I reinstall my abutment my barrel is never centered in the shroud.It always tends to point up🤔.Have you ran into this problem before?

[@phil331]

i cant get the trigger out of my gun idk what its stuck on

[@Isaacgates7]

Can you use an old abutment washer in the newer guns to make them take the old shot tubes?

[@RestOModDaisy]

There's been quite a bit of work done in that direction. Check this forum post out: www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/putting-a-little-more-power-in-a-15-00-daisy.807316/ the last 6 or so pages cover some of what you're asking about.

[@Isaacgates7]

@@RestOModDaisyThank you. There is a lot of good info on this forum. I feel like you just gave me the keys to a new daisy rabbit hole. I'm so grateful you share your knowledge and sources.

[@RestOModDaisy]

@@Isaacgates7 Enjoy the dive! It is the Daisy Modders Bible, truly open source info!

[@timboyd3580]

Where can I get a new abutment seal mine was brittle and crumbled pushing it back in?

[@RestOModDaisy]

Daisy does sell the abutment seal as a separate part. You'll need a complete abutment assembly which will include a seamless shot tube and two magnets for securing the BB in the breech. You can get it direct from Cobalt 327's store over on the 'Bay. www.ebay.com/itm/293840661736?hash=item446a44ace8:g:5nYAAOSwNOxeVnw4

[@cmiller1120]

I have a 1938b and My abutment is stopped by the pin that is horizontal behind the spring anchor. There does not seem to be enough space to clear the pin. Help please!

[@RestOModDaisy]

Cassie, when you're removing the plunger assembly it will on occasion get hung up on the spring anchor pin. If that happens, take a screw driver or something similar and push the plunger assembly back down into the top of the reciever and continue to slide it out. The abutment is the same size as the compression cup so if the plunger's out, the abutment will clear, I normally do extractions in the vise with the reciever upside down so I can access the abutment assembly if it binds on the spring anchor pin.

[@CUS8436]

Hello from Spain. I am restoring a Daisy model 95B air rifle but wanted to know if you can help me. I have seen all the videos on your channel but I have not seen what I am looking for. You would need to know how to remove the cargo cover from that model. I think it is the same or similar to the model 1938B but I do not know how to release it. Could you help me?

[@porscheguy09]

I’m refinishing my son’s 70th Anniversary Model 1938B and need to replace the plastic BB port cover which was broken. Does it install directly through the rectangle opening or from the end of the barrel? I know they can be fragile and break easily so want to do it right. Any advice?

[@RestOModDaisy]

They install from the muzzle end which will require you to remove the front sight assembly. Use a wood block and just tap it off gently, that's the easy part. You'll have to compress the replacement loading gate to get it started down the muzzle and once it's on it's way it's a good idea to use a small piece of wire to make sure the shot tube centers in the middle of the flanges of the loading gate to prevent it from binding on your new replacement part. You'll also need to get the replacement loading gate lined up with the loading port so it will pop into place once it gets to the opening. Take your time and it should install with no issues.

[@porscheguy09]

@@RestOModDaisy thank you for your quick response. I assumed that’s how they installed but wasn’t sure. I think I’ll order two since they’re only a couple dollars apiece in case I break one. Thanks again for your response and help.

[@andrewdurfee2891]

Is there a trick to getting the trigger mechanism out after removing all the bolts/nuts/lever/&stock?

[@RestOModDaisy]

You have two things to look for on removing the plastic trigger assembly from the post 1980 Red Ryder's. First is make sure you've got the push button safety centered up the best you can or else it will bind on the lever latch on the bottom of the receiver when you go to remove it. The second is to push slightly up on the front of the trigger assembly to make sure the trigger rest is not engaged with the sheet metal strut it rides on. A bit wiggling and you should be able to slide it out the back of the receiver.

[@andrewdurfee2891]

@@RestOModDaisy i finally got it out but broke the plastic trigger

[@RestOModDaisy]

@@andrewdurfee2891 We are at the point where you'll need to send me some pix of the gun and the trigger to see what can be done. Did you see the reply I posted on how to get the trigger out from your earlier post? Mt email address is "[e-mail]"

[@andrewdurfee2891]

@@RestOModDaisy ok/ yes i saw it but i had already broke the trigger by that point

[@juakagami8070]

Does it spin the bb?

[@RestOModDaisy]

It might, the magnet that holds the BB in position is strong enough to trap three or so BB's in the feed ramp but I don't know if it's got enough field strength to induce a spin after the airtube impacts during the firing cycle. There is a pretty good section on attempts to "Hop Up" a Daisy over that the $15 Dollar Daisy Thread at the The High Road forum but I'm not certain where it is in the document, you might try taking a peek to find it. www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/putting-a-little-more-power-in-a-15-00-daisy.807316/

[@juakagami8070]

@@RestOModDaisy, thanks. The magnets are not in the correct place to induce hop to the bb. That's not a bad idea, I'll try to place a magnet to induce hop to steel bbs. My thoughts about that system began when I saw the little nub that holds the barrel.

[@neovenetar]

Is there anything that stops it from rotating once it's in place?

[@RestOModDaisy]

It's basically a friction fit with a stop at the end of the compression chamber.

[@russellhorner4950]

Well my 98 wasn't a B but it had this fixed abutment and it was gone just had the barrel tube and muzzle cap. Well after some thinking and trying my idea. I now have a model 98/ 25. I don't have a 1938 or any other fixed abutment gun or I'd try it on them as well.Dont have to unshoulder the gun to cock and fire. Well next I'll have to find a model 1938 B or maybe some other model and see what I can do.

[@RestOModDaisy]

Russell, Ah...the joys of the Bottlecap Daisy's! The next mod you might want to try is to sub in a Model 499 mainspring on your Model 98 for superfast cycling, it won't run as fast as the regular mainspring but the cycle time is really quick especially with some practice. Remember, the thread in Model 25 shot not work with any of the Daisy B models with the plastic trigger and the fixed abutment's, there is no thread to accept one so stick with any pre 1978 gun and you should be good to go.

[@subtle7hunder62]

I just came across my " old trusty training rifle", from circa 1971. The trigger guard was broken off where the triangular plastic piece is. So basically, the oblong section, where your three fingers go through, is missing, along with the large slotted screw that secures the stock at the top behind the rear sight. Would you happen to offer any replacement parts for this item? It's the model number 960 pat. 2,729,208. Also, if you'd have any images of the original box/packaging. I would so enjoy seeing that again after all these years. I believe the box/package was yellowish in color. Thank you so very much for your consideration in this matter. Sincerely, Lou Pesenti

[@RestOModDaisy]

Lou, I'm pretty sure I have one. The Model 960 was a Rodgers AR produced gun so it should be a high pivot aluminum lever. Any castings in the lever section you still have and it most likely is one of their straight levers, not curved like a Red Ryder. If you could send me a pic at "[e-mail]" I should be able to get you and answer.

[@subtle7hunder62]

@@RestOModDaisy Yes sir! I’ll send a pic ASAP.

[@subtle7hunder62]

Hello Mr Bruce! I sent the photos of my gun, I was curious to know if you've received them, and if it's something you have in stock? LP

[@RestOModDaisy]

@@subtle7hunder62 I do, message sent!

[@subtle7hunder62]

@@RestOModDaisy Greetings Mr Bruce, I was hoping to get that payment to you for the lever and shipping. Please let me know.

[@normanroach3390]

IS A RED RIDER THE ASE SHERIDAN COWBOY I HAVE TAKEN APART IT WOOD NOT SHOOT WAT OILSHOULD U

[@frankapplegate4852]

My grandson has a 1938B plastic lever Red Rider 70th anniversary model that will not shoot a BB. It appears to have a silver BB in place but I can’t get it out and when I fire the rifle it seems more air comes out of the viewing port then the barrel. I can cock the rifle and see the BB then pull the trigger and see the rod appears to have pushed the BB forward but very little air seems to be coming out the muzzle compared to the WD40 vapor coming from the BB site post. I tried to possibly clear an obstruction with a coat hanger to no avail. Please advise. Enjoyed you video. My son and both grand sons have Red Rider BB guns

[@RestOModDaisy]

Frank, sounds like you have a BB jammed in the shot tube it self. You can check that by pushing a small diameter wire like coat hanger from the muzzle down to the obstruction and making note of where it stops. To clear that, I would disassemble the gun and pull the plunger assembly to be able to get to the back end of the abutment assembly so you can try tapping the obstruction out of the shot tube from the backside. The abutment is set up so a BB can not go out the back of the assembly, so you'll need to try from the back of the abutment towards the muzzle. Let me know if that works.