Ruin to Riches: One Surf Town’s TURBULENT History…

[@rabbitmb55]

Great vid Dan. Went first to Arugam Bay in 1978, then again in 1981. The main driver of the changes happening in that period was the European Neckerman tourists. They weren't surfers, just lay on the beach wearing next to nothing. In 78, the little fishing village of Ullé just inside the bay was the only place to stay, sleeping in family owned thatch humpies, sand floors, no electricity. Delicious freshly cooked breakfasts and dinners were provided by the family. Hired help was usually Tamils, girls doing cooking and cleaning, boys maintaining the outside areas. Surfers were mostly American and Aussies like me. We had troupes of monkeys through the village every morning, on the beach watching us surf during the day. By 81, the first place with electricity (generator) appeared just outside the village. And the Europeans. Treks out to elephant tanks, camping among herds of 60 elephants, down to Yala NP before it was really known well.... priceless! Beautiful memories of a remote surf and cultural experience. I won't go back to have those memories spoilt. Same with Lagundri Bay on Nias. I surfed there alone for a month in 78, lived in a half built house opposite the break, no other building there at that time. I am constantly shocked when l go onto you tube and watch how it has changed. Times they (really) are a changing

[@JakobSciaresa]

Good stuff mate great video 🤙🏻

[@MikeElPortonVerde]

Wonderful storytelling, Dan. Cheers from Nicaragua.

[@Marty647]

I went in 1977, made it to Hikkaduwa, the only place I'd heard of and it was so consistent, uncrowded, friendly and cheap I just parked it for a month. Ayubowan beautiful people!

[@DanHarmon123]

Sick!! Bet that was epic back then!

[@Marty647]

@@DanHarmon123 I went from there on to the Maldives! Only Europeans spoke of it. Mind' blown! Of course lots can change in 47 years (cough)... Get it while you can boys! It's still out there.

[@pyrrhical3423]

Was there 3 months ago! Currently in medewi. Im endlessly impressed by the early surf pioneers, true dedication to the sport, going to the most remote sketchy places going into barrelling waves over sharp reef is insane. You always have commenters telling their stories of the early 70s and 80s when they had the places to themselves. Like a nostalgic kick in the balls haha. Arugam was absolutely mobbed in September, with many competitive surfers on the point and other spots. So tiring pulling off every wave cause someone’s paddled on my inside. got cut up on the reef and left lol

[@jakethekent]

I was there in 2000 and stayed for several months. I spent 2 months in Arugam Bay and another 5 weeks exploring the South East all the way round to Hikkaduwa. I found it quite a dark place compared to Indonesia. My girlfriend at the time was constantly being hassled and groped. The surf was dissapointing, gutless and mostly very small. I found Arugam Bay to be overcrowded, shapeless and never above shoulder high. I quickly lost interest in the endless backhand hacks that is all this wave allowed. Packed out with large groups of Isreali's and Italians as well as your usual Ozzy's French etc. It was rammed and the atmosphere in the water was awful - that was 25 years ago. I heard horror stories of how the Singhalese Army terrorised the Tamil residents. Rubber necklaces on the beach and raping and pillaging thier way through this sleepy fishing village. The story of what happened up at the tea house infront of the wave is too horrific to tell. They were still stalking the village at night and coming into your accomodation to extort free beer and food from my hosts, happily poking guns into your face in the process. It was plain to see the people were still traumatised and very much at the mercy of a brutal Buddhist army. It was heartbreaking to be honest. The next year the tsunami hit adding to it's tragic history. The highlight of the trip was taking a boat ride down the coast with local fisherman Chutti to stay in Yala National Park and surf the fabled triple point. We slept on the floor of the temple after giving the Swami some weed as a gift, had a friendly visit from some LTTE members, got woken by elephants in the grounds at 3AM and raided by a huge troop of monkeys marauding through the temple. Again the surf flopped but it was a pretty unique experience. I never went back to Sri Lanka as it was such a step-down from the perfect barrels and uncrowded paradise (no longer) we had been enjoying elsewhere.

[@brucejohnston3521]

surfed it 76 lots of WA surfers but still great so untouched on my way back 2025 🙏68 still fit and still surfing

[@angolinchos]

Great video again Dan! Super interesting. The island must be packed with spots!

[@justincreamer5404]

Always happy to see you release a new vies. Thanks for the info on Sri Lanka! As a result of your book, I just booked a flight to Indo with no plan other than to go to whatever islands I want to surf or explore. It was really a fantastic and entertaining book to read that sparked some massive inspiration. You should push it a little more directly! Lots of people would have a kick reading it. Thanks for sharing all that you do!

[@DiamondRidgeMusic]

Looks like a dream for skim boarders too from the drone shots you showed, looks like some nice little options to run into some siders from the shore off a point on the smaller days

[@scottmcwave9479]

The early explorers were stoked! Thanks for another great video! 🤙

[@DanHarmon123]

I bet!! Thanks Scott, stoked you enjoyed this one :)

[@dudeleboski2692]

Would anyone out there like to share their experiences that they had with the Israelis there?

[@raymondperez2972]

Great history you have told here. Good job!!!!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍💪💪💪💪💪💪💪

[@DanHarmon123]

Thank you!!

[@icedrum555]

Thanks Dan - great vid - you are much appreciated!

[@NTF.England]

Great upload, always good to know the political history and state of a country before travelling.

[@DanHarmon123]

Thank you!!

[@senorsalami]

just did a book launch at Mctavish in Brookvale and met Rusty still vibrant and interested in the culture top work Dan.

[@ThomasSheehan-n6l]

Your a good teacher. From armchair surfer. Tasmania

[@leonardberverena1030]

Very cool video so good 🤙

[@antonibertolacci7030]

Great job 👏

[@petermcauley626]

Dan has found his calling in life! Keep them coming :). Would be fun to hear about some discovery of cold water irish or scottish spots too

[@timlambert5165]

I put my finger on Hikkaduwa,after a dream.I had to go ,now I do business,surf and visit ,always made welcome 🙏 much love there😊

[@longboardarian6790]

Fantastic video! Primo quality 🤙🏼

[@DanHarmon123]

Thank you!!

[@tmorril]

Went there in 76. It took 2 days each way! Surf was so so. There was a government guesthouse halfway down the beach called the coocoo's nest. I met an Austrian girl there who I ended up traveling through India with. Those were some great times!

[@stusmith6631]

Cool vid, never made it there, always hit the surf season in Hikkaduwa ... Hippydua as it was known back in the day lol

[@Ripoispo]

Went there last august full high season packed as hell The crowd is a real issue I would recommend trying end - pre season before the hustle

[@Paulosav1970]

A bay was hellish when I was there, I'd never go back

[@DevoSevo]

I’m in medigami right now and I’m loooving it

[@loontil]

went there in 94...pretty good...not totally uncrowded... wouldn't go now - went to southern SL in 2015 - admittedly at Xmas - but it was a touristy zoo. Crappy modern cheap buildings etc - everything was old and charming in 94 and virtually no tourists on South coast

[@jamespowrie6793]

Went there somewhere around 94. Remember having an army guy with a machine gun jump on our tuk tuk to protect us as we went through the jungle on our way to A-bay. Then we went further up the coast where there were no tourists at all and luckily were invited to stay with some locals because all guest houses were closed. Waves were good but not epic and the point was already quite busy on good days. I remember some aggro in the water between Aussie and Israeli surfers.

[@Hotwire_RCTrix]

Very good review. I hope it never becomes like Bali. The people of Sri Lanka are delightful and friendly. I heard stories of crocs which are difficult to imagine but possible. It's a long trip from Columbo to AB so I don't think it will be everyone's pick for a destination and that's good. The military conflict isn't over up north and it is evident by the road blocks and military presence.

[@RobertHall-kx2mx]

30 years ago spent a month there lives the place Potavil would of loved to of got that on on Sri Lankan Kirra

[@gilesporter6526]

You just described the sort of wave I've been looking for. What are the best months to go?

[@rheeserodgers2752]

I first went to Aragon bay in 1975 there was only myself another guy and my self I lived on 30cents a day back then ,I stayed about 3weeks then winds changed so I caught about 3 buses to hikkadou and had the best surf after a cyclone Only 4 of us around stayed about 1 months. Been a Buddhist meditator ever since. The best holiday,lots of surfers were going to Bali but not me. Did go to Lombok in 1989 only 4 of us around then

[@LouisonC]

Nice vidéo, im going to india soon, maybe I’ll catch waves

[@DanHarmon123]

I'm sure there are plenty of lesser-known spots over there ;)

[@ianbuchan8148]

I was there in 2013. Great spot for a mellow surfing experience.....off peak season preferably. But be aware of the following; There are crocs in the lakes adjacent to some of the surf breaks and they have been known to attack humans.....in the ocean too. Also steer clear of the stray dogs on the beach at Arugam. I was bitten by one and had to go through the whole unpleasant rabies inoculation experience. Otherwise definitely worth the risks..

[@RaniVeluNachar-kx4lu]

Yes, let's all go next winter, two million people a month.

[@manc66]

I was in the bus station in Columbo a week before a bomb went off, 1983.

[@climber222]

Run by Israelis and no barrels I'm out. But great story mate 👍 like all of them the 70s and 80s must have been amazing. I'm luck to have travelled in the 90's, recent years so many places have turned into tourist toilets.

[@martincallaghan6563]

I Surf there in 1988 no one there full-scale war going on we were drinking with half a dozen police officers in Aragam Bay and they were blowing up and killed that night

[@hughlawson5399]

google up some reviews on israeli surfers in the area before you go.

[@JohnCocozza]

Are the surf breaks pretty sharky like Reunion Island or less of a worry like Indo?

[@brucejohnston3521]

like reunion

[@DanHarmon123]

Never thought about it in Sri Lanka to be honest haha!

[@frankthetank8552]

So basically it's now ruined

[@catinthehat8412]

are the Israeli surfers friendly 🤙

[@jupiterido9020]

most of us are, but like everywhere in the world you may fall on some assholes.

[@jamespowrie6793]

I’ve met a few of the aggro types in Sri Lanka and the Maldives.

[@markbrightwell1369]

Pack mentality, its a fukn joke.

[@marcolomma9560]

been there in 2010, i had problems just with Israeli, they are assholes brain washed... btw sri lanka is amazing.