EASY - Diagnose/Fix PARASITIC BATTERY DRAW

[@split63.black58]

I'm a retired mechanic , with a draw on my battery , just wanted to say you filmed an excellent video , to the point , easy to understand , Great job .

[@albertlanger2339]

My only training is 40+ years of repairing my cars. That said, I've never had a parasitic draw. I recently did but didn't know of it. After blaming the battery, I found this video. Yep, I had a draw and this video gave me top ideas and lessons.

[@brandonharvey7939]

Faulty water pump circuits are the #1 cause of a drop in blinker fluid pressure.

[@vinznes7792]

Hye ,wanna ask,last night I found out,my passenger window can't up n down,so I start inspect,when I open the door cover, found out the wire harness got effect by rain water,now should I change the wire that came from door side,no current supply for the motor,live wire,zero

[@overthehill1958]

Had a coworker that relaced the battery, alternator and cables. After a week of sitting idle the battery would be dead. He got so mad he sold it to me for $500. This was in the early 80s and the car was in excellent shape. I got the car home and parked it in the driveway. That night I looked outside from the upstairs window and thought I saw a little glow from the car. It was the glove compartment light. Removed the bulb and drove the car to work for 4 years with no problems. Your videos are very helpful. Thank You.

[@HrmnS-uf1yn]

😂

[@shaunedwards4893]

I would have gave the car back if he would refund my money. Not good to take advantage of the elderly.

[@overthehill1958]

@@shaunedwards4893 Where did you get the idea he was elderly?

[@mrdiyguy123]

I applaud you for sharing what you know with the youtube community. @404 your meter was actually measuring 250 mA (0.25A), not 25 mA. You are correct that ~50 mA is a typical and acceptable parasitic draw. If you had waited a minute or 2 after connecting the leads in series, that 250mA would likely have dropped to the expected 50mA draw. Additionally, you were completely correct when you say it takes a while (some vehicles are quicker than others) for the current draw to reach steady state and stabilize. Most vehicles take

[@deeeeeeps]

Whole reason I was watching this video to make sure I was reading milliamps right and he shows me wrong lol.

[@elcomandante9299]

50ma draw is to high.

[@gjk1504]

Thank you. I saw that and thought I was crazy for a minute when he kept saying 25 milliamps LOL

[@njuham]

Thanks for this. When you say keeping the leads in place for a minute or two wouldn't that damage the leads?

[@mrdiyguy123]

@njuham 250mA is not nearly high enough current to damage test leads. Fyi, if current was exceeding the capacity of a lead, it would melt the insulation in mere seconds.

[@JoelHenleyMusic]

I've watched several of these parasitic draw videos and this one was the easiest to understand by far. Thank you!

[@zoexj4872]

You gotta be kidding me on the timing of this video!. We have a 99 Grand with the very same problem. Just found out this morning. You guys ROCK!!! Much love, brothers...

[@DEInTheGarage]

What can I say... we sensed a fellow Jeeper needed this info. Hope it works out for you buddy! Good luck!

[@daydreamdesign]

As soon as you said glove box I looked over and saw a light on for no reason! God is good, thank you bro.

[@johnlee8734]

Amen, all the time!

[@SteveFrench_420]

I wish God would fix my aunt's SL2's parasitic draw. 🙄

[@barrywise2773]

Amen all the time here as well .

[@I999-g2s]

Great video, working through this issue on a friend’s car. 0.25 is actually 250mA (not 25mA) :-(

[@DEInTheGarage]

Yea, I misspoke, but thank you for catching me. Good luck with your issue

[@bluegables]

@@DEInTheGarage so 250mA is not normal, right? I got almost 500mA:www.mitsubishi-forums.com/threads/parasitic-draw-spotted-control-unit-relay-fuse.261023/

[@brianmaloney9949]

@@bluegables 250mAh is what he meant, so 259mAh-500mAh is acceptable.

[@KobyTCBZ]

@@brianmaloney9949 no it’s not, 50mA is acceptable, 250mA is not.

[@laboogie]

@@KobyTCBZ no, .50 ma is actually .500 ma. you’re missing what they are saying.

[@snairotearp]

Thank you for explaining in detail how to hook up the multimeter in series with the battery. I've watched many parasitic-drain videos and none of them showed how to hook the meter up to the battery to start collecting numbers. This is the most important step in diagnosing parasitic drain and if someone is making a video for instruction you would think they would do what you did...but the brain locks up for some people and not everybody makes a good teacher. You're a great teacher.

[@brainpilot973]

This may be one of the most useful videos I've ever seen on KZbin. That it's using the exact same Jeep I'm working on is an even better coincidence. Thanks!

[@dashcan8479]

Best video on this topic. I am in the category of buying a car when I did not know fully what the prior owner installed. Found a draw that was making my battery go to 4.5v overnight. Found aux cable for radio behind the radio in a aux box. Removed that 3 weeks ago and now still having draw. Remote starter needs to be investigated. Radio fuse was the amp drop but could have other components on it. Just this week it is drawing again. Even has kill switch I/O on underside of dash. I have to trace this circuit as you say. I hope to get this fixed and do biz with you guys. Thanks.

[@auppal9906]

In

[@tonyobrien5651]

This is the best video i have seen for along time in its presentation. it explains everything in layman language and assumes the person watching has a limited knowledge of the subject. No terms are used that leaves the viewer asking "what the hell does that mean". You also explains how to use the multi meter .clearly. You should go into teaching as you keep the lesson at the student level without going over their heads. Well done.

[@dknollRX7]

Unplugging fuses and plugging them back in can wake up the car again. The best way to pinpoint it with just a DVOM is to do a voltage drop across each fuse, with the meter reading mV. Power Probe has a chart that shows what mV reading equates to what mA draw, depending on the fuse type and size. Your voltage drop at each fuse should be 0mV. If you have a voltage drop across the fuse, it’s because the circuit is still active. Once you’ve pinpointed the fuse that’s the culprit, you then have to figure out what that fuse powers. Let’s say there are 3 components that are powered by the fuse that has a voltage drop reading across the poles. Don’t take that fuse out, but put your meter in series to read out the mA draw at the battery, and disconnect the given components one at a time until the draw goes away. When it does, you know what was causing your issue.

[@VincentOrosambo]

Good information. Can you do a video ?

[@MichaelFeldman71]

Great video! Perfect presentation, really clear instructions and well narrated! Thanks!

[@DEInTheGarage]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@plsNohtml5vid]

One of the factual, informative videos I have ever seen on any subject on KZbin... Great Job ❗

[@windward2818]

Tips: Parasitic draw problems can be very diverse, so it is hard to say which testing method is better than another. It really depends on the symptoms and the complexity of the vehicle and its electrical design. 1) Start with the battery charged, this is good advice if you have time. To fully charge a battery could take up to 12 hours or more, and batteries exposed to parasitic draw tend to arrive at the shop practically dead. I think what is important is that the battery is not dead. Perhaps 75% SOC may be more realistic to start testing. 2) The vehicle must go asleep and make sure to put into a state where the customer leaves it during the draw, like locking the doors for example. If it is parked in a garage maybe the customer does not lock the doors. Keep all test leads and hands away from any electric cooling fans. If there is a hood switch for a light or module this will have to be disabled off. Same with a trunk light and or switch if you want to troubleshoot fuse panels in the trunk. 3) Like in the video, if you remove the BAT NEG lug you will reset the system. Parasitic draw in newer vehicles may require a special sequence of operation to show itself. If you interrupt power the problem could go away until the customer recreates it. That is, recreates a special sequence of operation. So, if you want to introduce an Ammeter or a shunt you have to do it without interrupting power. Parasitic draw current profiles may be complex, meaning periodic ON/OFF or something more complex. So the current meter reading may be dynamic in nature or perhaps periodic. 4) I use a clamp meter first, if I can fit the jaws around around one of the battery cables, like the B&K 316, which has a resolution down to 1mA DC, and also measures DC Volts. If you use a clamp meter you can easily go key on. I would have to say that the clamp meter is more useful in this case than a DMM with a 10Amp current range. There is a danger when going key on, obviously the vehicle will wake up and draw a lot of current, and might even turn on a large load like a cooling fan or pump motor. These higher currents could overcurrent an inserted DMM amperage limit, which may blow a fuse. What if the battery is in the trunk? Well if you have a wiring diagram the main power feeds usually come to underhood fuse boxes before going to other interior fuse panels. Usually like two. If you can get to these wires you can use a clamp meter to measure the current. 5) The real issue with complex parasitic draw failures is they can take a long time to diagnose. Maybe even over an hour, after the vehicle has gone to sleep, depending on the vehicle and what has failed. If you know what you are doing and using a clamp meter you can use a DC power supply to put the vehicle on "life support" while you are troubleshooting. Just like using a voltage regulated power supply during Flash Reprogramming which also can take a long time, meaning don't rely on the battery to supply power during the testing. If power is interrupted or inadequate the problem may reset. For parasitic draw I would recommend an old style 15VDC 20Amp voltage regulated linear, current limited, bench power supply. The output is very low noise as compared to a switching power supply. Match battery voltage, connect, and then increase the voltage so that the battery is taking a very small draw (charge). Now you can keep a constant voltage while you are doing the testing and slow charge the battery. If you have to go key on to key off to diagnose the parasitic draw problem remember a load may be actuated. The battery can usually supply the starting surge for a motor and then the supply will take over.

[@floofsale]

Thanks man, now that you made us realize how complex it is, makes me not wanna do it. Probably will take it to an electric auto shop 😂

[@floofsale]

@@terminator7137 I'll tell you what helped me and saved me alot of time and headache. Google. I basically searched many forums .. with certain search words .. for example.. "2012 Honda accord parasitic draw forums" ... And u will be surprised.. but ur car .. or boat.. or whatever it is you posses... Might have a common problem that is well known to the internet community lol... So i found many forums and one guy mentioned all the trouble he went thru and by going to the dealership they finally told him what it was.. a common Bluetooth handsfree module that just commonly went bad in Hondas as well as Acuras... So guess what. I unplugged it and my parasitic draw went away. Sometimes a little internet search can save alot of time and headache. Oh i also took this pretty dead 2 year old battery to Advanced Auto and got a free Gold battery replacement at no charge.

[@rajivsud3593]

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[@bharatkukreti8449]

wow!!what an elaborate explanation to the procedure and safety aspect of TEST. Appreciate your sharing the knowledge. Thankyou sir..🎉.🎉

[@earleenejackson5207]

I have a 2011 Honda Odyssey exl , and I've replaced the alternator 4 times and the last 2 are denso alternators. I checked fuses and codes all good. The check charge system message is blinking & battery icon is on. What eventually happens is within a couple days is goes dead so it seems like alternator isn't charging battery. No one knows what to do. Anyone have any ideas I can check into?

[@isabellabaraz6821]

You HAVE NO IDEA HOW THANKFUL AND HAPPY AM THAT CAME ACROSS YOU AND YOUR CHANNEL!!!! THAAAANK YOU!!

[@DEInTheGarage]

I am so glad you found this helpful! Good luck!

[@vaughanellis7866]

One of the major causes of parasitic draw is a faulty relay, that is one of the first thing I'd check, the cause the draw by being 'frozen' in the closed position when they should be in the open position when they car is turned off.

[@createspaceone]

how do you fix that? relay tester? i only tested for clicking with multimeter.

[@vaughanellis7866]

@@createspaceone Look on the body of the relay you are checking, there should be a diagram on the plastic cover of the relay showing the relay at rest and which poles are open or closed, check terminals with your multimeter, you will be able to check the continuity against the diagram on the relay, if there is no diagram on the relay the manufacturer should have a diagram for the relay on their website.

[@tomf4547]

Well. Watched your vid, grabbed my meter and connected to the battery. My old 1981 2.8 injection only has 7 fuses. Got to the 7th and there it is. The 57 milliamp draw stopped when I pulled it. It was the new radio I fitted, don't need the clock so I pulled the power from it while I was there. Off to order an isolator switch now as the cars just for shows etc. Great teacher 👍👍

[@robert5712]

Thank you, finally a video that is step by step, understandable explained and a meter I can buy cheap. I'm going to try and find my Jeep's parasitic draw myself before I take it to the shop.

[@stuartcoppenhall1009]

FANTASTIC, Never used a meter before in my life. Just bought one and found fault already. Very well explained, easy to follow. Thank you so much. I appreciate it. Definately subscribed

[@MrRustyFord]

Thanks for showing this. Wow, my Mom's 2010 Grand Marquis is drawing 3.42 amps! Her car sat for 3 weeks because she had fallen and broken three ribs. When she was well enough to drive, it was dead. I put a new battery in it. Two days later, it was dead. So, I knew something was draining it down. I just checked it like the video says for a draw - it's reading 3.42 amps - and now I have to do the elimination check.

[@thomas25082]

What did it end up being ? Glove box light .

[@Jon-dz2cl]

U need 2 latch your doors to. Opening , closing , and leaving your doors, hood and truck open will continue to draw current and give you a misread. So open your doors and push the door latch to the closed position and THEN leave your car to set for an hour. If your not sure there closed check your dash for any lights or warnings.

[@DEInTheGarage]

Yep. That is a fair point

[@readplanet23]

Thank You D and E for the informative video. I appreciate it when good people explain technical problems in a way “commoners” ( like myself ) can easily understand. Have A Good Day! And I appreciate the comedy relief inside the video. 😁👍🏼😎

[@earlbrowniii6838]

Your video is great and easy to understand. Good job. Very helpful.

[@Renigade16]

I won that thing. 😎 Thanks again Doug and Eric 😘

[@jguthery9752]

Excellent video man, explained in a simple, straight forward manner. Step by Step. That's how you do a how-to!

[@jtmoffroad]

Excellent video man! I’m terrible with electrical especially testing and you made it very straight forward and easy to understand in this video. Thanks!

[@Deerector]

Is every electrical component fused? Cause I have small draw about 90 milliamps and I pulled each one and no chances. After about 1-2 weeks my battery is too weak

[@jeffwelpman3067]

How to fix the problem curcuit p

[@KlausStoermer]

Very helpful video, now I can attack my problem without making mistakes. Thanks a lot!

[@warrenosborne6044]

I've stumbled through this procedure add hock,, You described what it took me a dozen screw ups to eventually find the problem. Great explanation.

[@garyhowell738]

Those damn water pump circuits, they are always a problem. Love the videos, keep them coming

[@DEInTheGarage]

We joke, but a guy I work with has a Audi V10 and it actually has an electric water pump which means he has a water pump circuit. haha. It is electric on his so that it can run for a few minutes after the engine is shut down to prevent heat soak. You should see this V10 crammed into the engine bay of a Audi S6.... there is zero room for air flow and as a result it has major cooling issues. Gotta love German over engineering...

[@michaelshackelford566]

Your video was better than any other video I have watched. I like the way you showed the multimeter and showed exactly what you were setting the dial to.

[@QueferSutherland]

Wow The best video I've seen on parasitic draw and I wasn't even looking for it. I have a truck I was trying to use a multimeter on and I knew it had a drain. But now I know it's from the after market double din and led lights he put in.

[@palangnar3588]

Excellent explanation, i don't think anybody else has a video about this kind of problems, but many cars have it, i think as you said it, most of the time is by incorrectly installing extra after market thing to the car such as stereo, lights .

[@ejayerik]

I’ve been chasing a parasitic draw in my TJ for over a year now. No local mechanics want to bother with it. Battery tests good. I’ve used this method. Removed every fuse in the engine bay and behind the glove box, every relay under the hood and under the dash, in the steering column, disconnected every after market item, the radio, the starter, the alternator, the computer, replaced the battery cables all the way back, and I still have a 1.6 amp parasitic draw. I’m stumped.

[@DEInTheGarage]

Someone else in the comments of this video suggested that a bad alternator could produce parasitic draw which would not be detectible through this method. Maybe completely disconnect you alternator to see if that does the trick

[@ejayerik]

@@DEInTheGarage As stated, the alternator is one of the peripherals that I fully disconnected without effect.

[@BT-tk3vd]

Did u unhook the hood light while testing

[@doubleya215]

Check the harnesses at the bcm. Maybe shorted at pins. Disconnect all power switch harnesses one at a time. Rear glass and latch sensor harnesses as well.

[@matthewgallant3622]

Thanks! I have a parasitic draw of 1.33 amps, I checked every single fuse in my car and nothing caused a drop in amperage. What else can cause a draw?

[@dougd.566]

Excellent tech video. Here is a question if you please...Did the full described mA test pulling fuses in the engine compartment and cabin fuse box, had NO CHANGE with a constant 5.43 Amp draw. Did a alternator diode test for ACV with NPF. Gutted the over wired aftermarket alarm and Jensen stereo BS. Still no result. Only thing outstanding is a slight dome light glow after it times out with doors closed ( doesn't go completely out. ) My next attempt will be a complete computer unplug, something is still drawing near 5 A not the desired >.50A. Any clues appreciated ? Thank you

[@davidmillerd7631]

Gr8 explanation , simple and easy to understand. Thanks for posting : )

[@outdoorsmansgarage]

That was outstanding Brothers weather information especially for somebody that's got an old beat up vehicle like I have

[@DEInTheGarage]

This process is a must for old vehicles. Those electrical gremlins get worse over time, I have found

[@felmypeto1]

Good video dude, so many are out there giving incorrect or incomplete advise, you did great, clearly not your first rodeo.

[@charlessmith6506]

I think you just solved my problem, theres a remote start i dont have the fob for thats probably causing my draw thankyou awesome video

[@DelFro_]

Just bought a 08 Cadillac and I’m noticing even with my new battery I still have trouble starting the car. This video is a gem ! Thank you!

[@nicwaymire]

Excellent video. Helped me solve the draw on my battery for a 70 skylark. Bad door switch.

[@PigsOnBook]

Thanks. Will a batttery maintainer balance out and solve a small parastic draw? After 2 months, of driving just to get groceries 2x/week and then one day I happened to not shut the door while buying groceries, 20 minutes, and then dead batttery. It took a jump to get started. I got a new Battery still under warranty. I then bought a Noco Genius2 2amp maintainer after letting car sit for 1 day, and clamped on maintainer, it went full charge, and then trickle charge this new battery. I clamped it and started car, and it still turned that ignition sound, and started but took like 4 seconds of ignition holding. Usually this slow 4 seconds , but it does ignite, was when I let the car be parked for 4 days. Now I’m confused if I somehow overcharged my battery. Optima battery, Ford Windstar 2001.

[@Fiveoh77th]

i have seen numerous videos on this subject, your video has to be the best explained video so far, good work.

[@JoshLee-d1e]

Awesome video have tried it but not getting a reading when I try to test amps after attaching to negative cable and negative post. Am I doing something wrong?

[@jdherrera4288]

Best video by far on parasitic draw. Good pacing and explained well. Thanks!

[@flyingfin1729]

Dont forget to check the lighted mirror on the passenger / driver sunshade. Their on/off switch is cheap plastic which the sun bakes and then the light stays on constantly

[@kennethcallahan7410]

Very well done, working on a golf cart with same issue

[@zulumagoo1]

Sadly the owner of my van is trying to do what he couldnt find a mechanic to do, because i am not good with wiring. Currently. Changed some connections and fuel pump replacement required a new connection changinging wiring. (The problem was not the brand new fuel pump i had a problem seating and useing a plastic mallet, broke the plug in cover area. I bought the cheaper replacement this time around. It went in much easier this time? Anyway. I like your finding way. Im going to start here. I'll get a better multimeter while im out n about tomorrow. Hoofin for a year now. Done stressing on it. Gonna fix it. I broke it.

[@robd4914]

Thumbs up for having the same MM as I have.

[@lefin1027]

you can add a fuse holder in line with your lead and install a 7 amp fuse to protect your meter from getting more than 10 amps!

[@kevindavis5475]

Thank YOU! For the first time someone actually explained this properly! Might be 33degrees out but going out to try this on my Mercury Mountaineer that's been draining my battery

[@DEInTheGarage]

Good luck!

[@thomasbullock7744]

Same here! About to go see if I can fix this shit!

[@fludrbywest3886]

This troubleshooting for parasitic-draw, is a great tool thank you 🙏🏻 It will work for other automobile models as well correct ? ❣️ thank you

[@johnzuggster375]

You did agreat job with this presentation, hats off to you!

[@audrybella6405]

Great video. We've found a common source of parasitic draw is shorts due to corrosion in connectors.

[@valeriehildestad]

Likewise with the rest of the comments… EXCELLENT VIDEO. I do have a question; however, I have gone through this process but when I test for the draw I am reading 0.00 . Do I not have one?

[@ProbabilityPiglet-if6fy]

Good job on the video and I'm so hoping you can help me out. I have a Jeep JK 2011 Wrangler and I have done exactly how you demonstrated it to see initially if there was any current going out. As soon as I touched the red lead onto the negative cable after touching the black to the terminal post, a couple of motors started to wind up. The first one was like a resetting sound at the front of the engine near the air pollution gear. The second one was the the cd player trying to start up. What could be happening? Do you have any ideas?

[@davidmaxwell3903]

thanks so much this made it easier to understand and set the meter up correctly

[@tonypagan7468]

Great video..can someone tell me why I’m not getting any reads from my battery doing that procedure!?I have a major drain coming from my front seats control module and I want to make sure if is both seats or just one

[@Richard-eg4ms]

Best explanation I've seen. To the point, thank you.

[@thedudeify]

Awesome video.. Thx for the info... How are you casting to your iphone, what type of camera are you using to film your vids?

[@DEInTheGarage]

I use a Sony FDR-X3000 and a GoPro Hero 8 for filming (Sony is lightyear better, but doesnt have a screen, so I link it with WiFi to my phone)

[@eyewood1]

Hey thanks For the great video I have a 72 olds 442. after it sits for about 3 days battery goes dead. I did the multimeter test and pulled the fuses and none of them change the reading on the multimeter. Where else could I be getting a draw from Thanks

[@queenslander954]

Cheers mate , would this would be the same testing the draw a 12 volt motorcycle with 3 phase stator , battery go’s flat with a new regulator / rectifier & new stator all testing to spec.

[@Jay-f9r2t]

Question I have a 04 f350 6.0 with parasitic draw with 2 batteries how would you check using your method

[@kevinhurley9001]

Sometimes pulling a fuse on certain ckts will wake modules up and give you a false reading, just voltage drop each fuse while in still in ,set your other meter to mv and it should read absolute zero or you have something on in that ckt

[@davjohno1]

Great video, exactly what I wanted and clearly explained, Thanks.

[@LISADINODNA]

Best video on the subject. Though I don't have a jeep but a misfit 05 Mustang with 2 different batteries now that drain quite often.

[@TheTorkerman]

Great video, thanks for keeping it simple and informative

[@effie_ladure]

EXCEPTIONAL VIDEO! Beautiful explanation

[@jamesharris5933]

I just purchased a brand new meter -Hooked it up as per you instructions ,left the door open to see what I get,but their is no power to it .No power to anything.??? 2005 pt Cruzer

[@kerrywages9631]

Great video on parasitic drain. i have a 2005 mustang that installed a lojack system and can't find which fuse controls or where the tracker was installed. Any thoughts?

[@youngintime9605]

Ty so much it was driving me crazy I was skeptical at first but boom it's done thanks again

[@Al-Fiallos]

Excellent video. Parasitic draw clearly explained.

[@personal5305]

simplest way to do this test! very good mate thanks!

[@jameshert5323]

I have a 2012 journey with a parasitic draw, and it seems as though a lot of people have had the same issue and a lot of mechanics have not been able to diagnose said problem. I'm going to go step by step to try to figure out the problem however, if you were to make a video or shed some light on this particular vehicle that just may be incredibly helpful

[@petericho71]

0.25A is not 25 milliamps, it is 250 milliamps....just saying.

[@eplictheboss7016]

You seem like your fun at parties

[@denisovanhybrid9610]

@@eplictheboss7016you seem like you’re dumb at parties

[@CameronDC-Grimes]

0.25A = 250mA 25mA = 0.025A on DC 10A setting on meter

[@La2venida]

So is it .25 a or 25 Milliamps?

[@jasonelliot9633]

Lol 😆 I was thinking the same thing he's totally wrong he had a 250 draw and didn't even know it 🤣

[@TyroneMaye]

my multimeter says 5amp max @ADC 250vac and 200mAmax could i still use it or need to upgrade to one with precise amount of 10A max as you indicate within this video upon diagnosing parasitic draws ?

[@vickiszem]

"5 amp max on 250AC circuit is not the same as 200mAmp max"... Most Parasitic leaks are less than 5Amps, so your 5Amp max can work. 10 amp setting is for starters (preventing a high current Blow-your-meter event) .. once it reads lower, can zoom lower to a setting above that, just for accuracy (but no need).

[@TyroneMaye]

@@vickiszem I appreciate you chiming in with your response here. I am wondering could it be the door handle modules thats causing the draw draining my 2007 Audi Q7 V63.6L FSI Quattro with premium package suv. My vehicle door handles : Left rear door handle "touch sensor" open circuit, and a short to ground code 00192 ; driver door handle "touch sensor" open circuit, and a short to ground code 00190 ; Right rear door handle short to ground code 00193 and code P0118 -Lower Limit Exceeded- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High....codes P0122 and P0222- lower limit exceeded throttle/pedal position sensor A circuit and throttle/pedal position sensor/switch B both showing " Low Input " plus P0190-fuel rail pressure sensor A circuit, upper limit exceeded and its showing code 01826- a system function test as being activated how do i check my ECM DTC Memory code 01314 my audi scan tool indicates. I think my issue is somewhere within these listed things above. I got fuse panels under hood under dash as well on sides of the dash at each front driver and passenger doors fuse panel is located also the fuse panel in the rear of tail gate ...no water to my knowledge has ever been an issue with vehicle in respect to water based shortages glitches etc nothing. I have no communication to my 19-gateway data bus and im getting code 01320-- no signal/communication to the Climatronic Control Module would that still exist if i changed out the entire engine ?

[@xTStockTx]

Just a little tip, I used tape around the cables to the borner and battery pin

[@justinking5540]

How will the lights be on if the battery is disconnected?

[@MrPanchoPlanet]

Yes it was the water pump circuit, glycol was messing with the electrons making them hydroactive at night and killing the battery. 👍

[@vickiszem]

Interesting... to drain the battery, the Positive side would have to energize the glycol... Water pump USUALLY has no circuit (clip attached). It stays in the Grounded side of the circuit... but your story sounds Cool

[@ntstudio28]

Thank you for this video. Awesome and convenient that i have the same exact multimeter!

[@AaronStockman-fh5lc]

Very good methodology of fault finding

[@hammer8809]

Hi, was wondering how to do this with a 24v circuit which I have in my Toyota Coaster bus which has two 12v batteries connected together. Your advise would be much appreciated, many thanks.

[@c.l.mcintosh624]

Like most everyone says thank you for your video

[@Years-mv6wi]

Thanks for the video. I've done most of the things you showed. I have been searching for this drain for 7 months. It is coming from fuse 8 on the interior (control unit relay). I discovered that about 6 months ago and have checked and tested everything I can think of. Still no resolution on this 2008 Outlander. Any suggestions?

[@phillipsmith1847]

Dude, good video! Got a 2000 Mercury Sable with a parasitic draw. Battery goes dead overnight. Thanks for the advice. Peace out!

[@DEInTheGarage]

Good luck with it bud!

[@raqueltorres203]

I need to find out why my 2000 toyota corolla won't and draining my battery

[@kam1583]

Thank you! Gotta pontoon boat, shop put a new marine stereo in dash. Have had 2 dead batteries after not using a few weeks. This will help me figure it out.!!😊

[@Adrian-yd6vu]

Hey bro I have aftermarket headlight bulbs how can I test if it is causing the parasitic draw thank you brother

[@chriscox5938]

Can anyone help please ive set my multimeter to the same as in this video but its sparking bad on the battery when i test it

[@starikyuzho1985]

Just to mention - around 4:00 time mark the current draw measured is not 25 mA, but 250 mA, which is way more than it should be.

[@JackTatum-yw2hr]

Nice job! Would say too that alligator leads are great for this type of diagnosis.

[@valeriedenise3454]

Does this work on all batteries for any vehicle? I have a 1980 crown... it's an old bus. Can I do this same process with my bus?

[@mpasaa]

This process is great for older vehicles but just seeing all the electronics and gadgets filling the new vehicles I'd probably invest in a tester or just bring it to someone who has the expensive diagnostic equipment designed for this issue. I miss the old days when vehicles were simple to work on but then the new stuff is much more efficient and many things last longer generally.... ;-)

[@77smore]

Case study on a 2004 Honda Civic. After changing the alternator bracket I had a parasitic draw from the battery and over night my battery would die. I could still drive the car and everything seemed fine until I parked it over night. I put a new battery in thinking the battery was no good. Turns out that it still died over night. So that lead me to believe I had parasitic draw coming from somewhere in the car. Meaning something was drawing power from the battery even though the car was off. So I hooked up my multimeter to test for draw coming from the car’s battery after the car had gone to sleep. I was pulling 4 amps. The limit u can be pulling is anywhere from .00 (nothing) to .50 milliamps. So that was quite a bit of draw. I began to pull fused with my multimeter connected snd found no difference in the draw after pulling all the fuses one by one. You do this so u can detect which system is the culprit so u can diagnos and fix whatever is wrong with that system. Turns out none of those systems were the culprit. My next idea was to test the lead on the alternator going to the battery from the alternator voltage regulator so I unplugged it completely and my parasitic draw went from 4.00 amps to 0.01 milliamps. I had been chasing this problem for about a week trying to figure out what was going on so for me I feel like it was a huge victory in my learning curve. Just wanted to share the struggles of electrical diagnostics lol.😊

[@Booneboarder]

I have the same issue. I have a 2000 Civic EX with a 3.51 amp draw. Pulled everyone of the fuses under the hood and nothing. Going to try unplugging the Alternator lead tomorrow. My alternator is charging the new battery I put in. So, was your problem the lead or the Alternator? Thanks

[@shenvalley_8-nuckler481]

I have the same diagnosis. What was causing it? How do you fix it?

[@coolcat23]

Instead of pulling out fuses, it is easier to measure the voltage across a plugged in fuse. The fuse is a very low Ohm resistor and will create a very slight voltage drop in the mV region if current is flowing through it. This voltage drop can be measured with a good multimeter.

[@stardreamsskyhigh8964]

Great video been searching my ZJ for a draw, still doing it I guess I’ll find it sometime. Thanks Mike

[@krisrawk1763]

Thanks for the video, very informative in the most lively way to pin point the issue in a draw, ty

[@lisalittle4204]

Will this also work on a riding mower battery that keeps going dead?

[@NJCycleDude]

Great video... I'm chasing this issue in an 04 WJ and its making me crazy.

[@gregoryleighty6982]

I don’t understand how the hood light or dome lights could work if the negative battery terminal is disconnected. I guess I’ll disconnect it and see if they still work, but maybe they can still draw power unless turned off? I guess that’s why I’m not a mechanic or an electrician. Lol thanks for the great info. It’s a good place to start.