Delboy's Garage, Threadlock vs Anti seize

[@Moonrider110]

Another very good video Del. i have been biking for 50 ,yes 50 years, and have learnt more since I found your channel 3 weeks ago than in all those years. Brilliant keep 'em coming.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Mick Lawrence Hi MIck, good to hear from you mate... and thanks so much for your kind faith and generous comments... am glad the videos can help you, and it's greta to hear from someone with way more riding experience than me! All the best my friend, thanks for watching, cheers, D&P!

[@adamshuaib27]

Fantastic video Delboy! Both thread lock and anti seize I believe are overlooked by too many. Cheap, very simple items like these two help us in the garage now and in the future. Keep it up sir this is my favorite channel!

[@Moonfleet41]

+Adam S. Thanks Adam, collect any bike from the main dealer after a service, and you'll find it all over the bike..!

[@bgs4tw]

God damn. I can't get enough of these videos. I love it. Looking forward to the next one Del.

[@Moonfleet41]

+bgs4tw Thanks buddy, much appreciated !

[@nbt2397]

MY GOD... the amount of knowledge on this video is amazing. THANK YOU.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks mate, just passing it on!

[@Town101]

Delboy, First, I want to thank you for your videos. I'm In Chicago, Illinois, USA learning more from you than anyone else. Please keep posting videos, they are not going unnoticed and people are learning alot from your wisdom. I think your niche is for the motorcyclist who is between garage owner and regular joe. Money! Black shirts = "Delboy's garage" ( add graphic) can bring in some well-deserved income for you and your wife. Thank you! Patrick

[@Moonfleet41]

+Patrick John Photography Hi Patrick, Thank you so much for your kind comments, and great support, a chanell is nothing without its loyal viewers... We did a run of T-Shirts and hoodies last year, and they went down very well indeed.... so we'll be doing some clothing again later in the spring once we get straight and squared away in the new home... maybe this time some cool long sleeve T-shirts (my favorite kind) and some BB caps as i love them... and all with the red DBG logo on black... We will post a video when the time comes to garner interest and guage how many we'll need... Take care and have a safe and happy new year my friend... D&P.

[@stephenmcallister6985]

hi I'm 16 and have been riding since last Christmas I just want to thank you for showing me how to maintain my bike and other tips and tricks. Have a good Christmas

[@Moonfleet41]

+Stephen Mcallister Hi Stephen, how fantastic to hear from you... people of your riding experience are the ones we target the channel at most... you are the riders of tomorrow in who's hands we will leave our lifestyle to continue in to the future... it's great to be able to help you, my friend, and great to hear that you've taken up the spanners yourself to take care of your bike - keep it that way, mate, that's exactly how it should be ! All the best, enjoy your holidays and ride safe... D&Px PS. drop us a line any time you need any help...

[@stephenmcallister6985]

+Moonfleet41 much appreciated have a great Christmas

[@tomthumb3085]

Once more, another very well explained topic pointing out actual application usage. Thanks for this information, I’ll certainly remember. The points raised.

[@jonsmith3723]

This is the information that I love to get. I am retired and enjoy fixing things and this kind of information is scarce. Thankyou!

[@keithgolla586]

Wow. By far the most Intuitive KZbin video I’ve ever seen on any topic. Well done. I’ve watched a ton of KZbin videos. Your the first I’ve ever subscribed to. Think I have a man crush. Knowledge is power! Cheers.

[@Moonfleet41]

You're most welcome Keith, glad you enjoyed it, welcome aboard and thank you for the support,

[@gporterhouse2060]

Just lost a brake caliper bolt the other day so I'll be investing in some of these. Brilliant video, plenty learnt! Many thanks!

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks George, much appreciated!

[@simonliddiard4900]

This video is great! As someone who want's to do the job properly, but doesn't have a lot of first hand mechanical or engineering knowledge the array of workshop consumables can be bewildering!

[@delboydereuck6031]

+Simon Liddiard Sure thing Simon, its not always made obvious on the packaging either aye... glad we could help you... take care.. Del.

[@swpearce]

Mystery demystified. Thanks so much for taking the time to categorize and explain what goes where when!

[@Moonfleet41]

+Steve Pearce Thank Steve, glad you enjoyed it, i really enjoyed making this one.. simple stuff aye.

[@fredhandrix]

Your videos are great, you explain things very well and tell us about the how’s and why’s as well as very interesting tips and examples. Keep up the good work !

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you Fred, I appreciate that!

[@fungames24]

Good info. I was wondering about using copper grease or thread locker on car thermostat bolts. This answers it. Even so, I won't use copper grease because of risk of the bolt undoing from vibration. I will instead use high temperature RTV as a sealer for the threads. RTV is a very weak glue but seals well, and it doesn't increase the risk of the bolt undoing.

[@AK-IT]

Thank you for the summary of the technologies, brands, uses, examples, and recommendations!

[@frankkrantz2819]

Keep em coming Del, love this stuff..like watching "HOW" when i was a kid..nice work can't wait for the next one...

[@Moonfleet41]

+Frank Krantz Thanks Frank, much appreciated mate !

[@borilapostolov4419]

whooa! your vast knowledge ,sir, on materials and craftsmanship is huge, but now you should get a degree in chemistry ! merry christmas to all of ya folks!

[@Moonfleet41]

+Boril Apostolov Thanks Boril, you're very kind... glad you enjoy the videos, we really appreciate the support, merry xmas !

[@DrLamb13371]

Really enjoyed this, good format and excellent knowledge and teaching skills.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Harry Baker Thank you most kindly Sir, am glad you enjoy the videos, it's always important to spread a little knowledge out there to our fellow bikers aye?? !

[@rimmersbryggeri]

There is also loctite plumbing threadlock/sealant that you can you instead of flax fibers or silicone tape and it hardens on contact with water or anaerobically.

[@Vlogbiker]

I was told that threadlock actually sets only under pressure be it that it only needs a very little but never over time unless the pressure is there. I use to fly radio controlled helicopters and if you got a drop on the workbench it or had a bolt covered with it but not wound a nut onto it then it would never cure as such, hence why it never goes off in a bottle. I had quite a debate with a rep over it and he insisted that it is not a glue and requires a condition before it solidifies. Thanks for the explanation of the copper slip and graphite explanation, didnt know you could put it on the back of a brake pad to stop vibration sound, again thanks heaps for the videos, your a legend for sharing so much!

[@Moonfleet41]

+VlogBiker Hi mate... yes, copper slip on the back of btake pads stops the squeel..but no more then butter in a biscuit aye.. Rather than deate the threadlock thing... experiment yourself... take a loose fitting nut and bolt, one that spins on freely... fill the thread with threadlock.. slip the nut on loosely, applying NO pressure, so you have a 'full nut', and leave it for 45 minutes... then come back and tell me what you found...?

[@Vlogbiker]

Moonfleet41 yeah I actually went out into the workshop last night and did that exact test very sloppy loose nut... lol, it was rock solid this morning. but the other bolt with no nut on it but resting against a piece of metal was still liquid and the two strips of metal with loctite between them was also liquid. Going to try two very flat peices today at the workshop at my office and place them in a vice and see what that yields.

[@greggferns3278]

Another good tutorial Del.My own rule of thumb is"am I likely to revisit this in the next year or so.Coppaslip it.If not, threadlock it.I've got 3 tins,moly,lithium and copper grease that I've had for at least a decade,and they still cost about a fiver each.Best money you could spend.And I'm Scottish.A mate of mine ,who was a bus mechanic,gave me a big tub of bolts and Nyloc nuts.Best money I've never spent.Be safe,.....Gregg

[@Moonfleet41]

+gregg ferns That's the best presents aye buddy? Thanks for your kind support, have a great xmas and we'll be loading more vids over the holidays, all the best, D&P!

[@davidmicheletti6292]

Very informative! When I'm doing maintenance on paper machines I use never seize compounds all the time. Between the fact the bolts are always exposed to water and chemicals it would be impossible to removed any bolts in the future without the protection that it provides.

[@dwaynecorrea9775]

Fantastic! Your videos have saved me much $$, time, frustration and the info you share is very good! Thank you!

[@igorsmelniks]

Once again a great video! thanks so much. You mentioned to use a bit of thread lock on Stainless Steel bolts, but not to have thread lock in Aluminium. What would you recommend to do when I have Stainless Steel bolt going into Aluminium?

[@Moonfleet41]

OK, first of all, is it a bolt that's liekly to vibrate free? You don't need threadlock on every single bolt or fastener, mst engines these days have stainless fasteners in to aluminium and if they're correctly torqued in place, they should stay put! However, if you're worried, then just a tiny dab of blue threadlock won't do any harm.

[@igorsmelniks]

Delboy's Garage sorry, forgot to mention - was regering to yoke bolts. thank you!

[@myppnu]

To loosen a nut or something that has threadlock applied to it. Just re-apply "fresh" threadlock onto the already hardened threadlock compund. The chemical reaction will soften the threadlock compound and you can just unscrew the nut after a few minutes. Just make sure you leave some threadlocker visible when you apply it in the first place...

[@CarAudioInc]

Very informative, appreciate it bruh!

[@IronSlimPA]

Brilliant man. I really like the format as well. Looking forward to this big announcement over the holiday. All the best to you and Penny and your families over this holiday season and may 2016 be your best year yet! Take care my friend.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Iron Slim Thanks Scott, wishing you and your family the same... contracts all exchanged last night on the new place, so should be in my the New Year! But a slow process as the new workshop needs the DBG T.L.C. to get it operational ! Merry Xmas, D&Px

[@williamclayborn7995]

YOU'RE A GOOD TEACHER. I NEEDED THIS. THANKS FROM CALIFORNIA.

[@Moonfleet41]

You are so welcome William, Happy Holidays and keep safe there.

[@boot-strapper]

Best video on this topic I have ever seen

[@muhammedk9648]

Hi. Thanks for the useful information . So from what I understand from this vid, the better product for a vehicle caliper bracket bolt (carrier bolt) , is copper slip rather than a thread lock? Certain people argue that with anti-seize, these bolts can get loose with vibrations etc - any truth in this?

[@johnmortison5763]

For your viewers in the US, Permatex (know for their excellent gasket sealers) makes an anti-seize compound that you paint on the threads with the brush attached to the can lid.

[@bassfacer1357]

Amazing video. Waaay more informative than any other vids I’ve seen on the subject.

[@xivlia]

extremely informative video! thank you very much! just in time for my CB1000R! picking it up in 4 days!

[@Moonfleet41]

Enjoy your new bike Ersan - have fun !

[@tonylittle2744]

Thanks Del for a very informative video. I've never seen the tubed stuff, always used the liquid stuff and, yes, I've stood on it and squirted it everywhere and it ain't cheap. Happy Crimble to you and Penny.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Tony Little Ha ha, you too aye?, aint enfuryating....and you always do it to a new tube too lol.. merry Christmas mate, enjoy the holiday... D&P.

[@charubeable]

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU for clarifying the usages of the two!!!

[@pneumadeux]

Here's a question: Stainless steel bolts holding brake calipers together; not mounting them to the fork, but joining two halves of a block together. Brembo gold ones, in this case. In the past when doing a rebuild, they've always seized mightily, and I've resorted to drilling them out. If I replace with stainless bolts, "which have a tendency to rattle loose," should I anti-seize or leave them be? No thread lock, obviously, since calipers get so hot...

[@Moonfleet41]

Good question Sam.. so thinking logically, having to drill them out is no big drama.. but having them fall out, well that kinda is..! So if it was me, i'd lock the bolts in with thread lock so they stay put, and remember, threadlock forms a resin layer between the two surfaces actually helping to prevent corrosion.. bone dry bolts can corrode solid.. thread locked bolts cannot..! so when you want to break them loose again, they'll give you no problems mate.!

[@pneumadeux]

@@Moonfleet41 Gracious cheers back to you from a stateside fan. You've helped me do a lot of things on my favorite 26 year old redhead (Ducati 900SS). Will do: a light smear of blue Loctite when those stainless bolts (and new seal kit) arrive (both from your side of the pond, btw.)

[@Moonfleet41]

@@pneumadeux Most welcome Sir, and thank you for your awesome support.. Oh, and "Ducati 900SS"? Simply Beautiful.!

[@joshuaking7098]

The question i had prior to this video was answered. My concern was bolts that retain a drive shaft, which i would not want rattling off, however, I had so much trouble getting them to come out I ruined the heads of the bolts and almost failed to get them out without having them break off. Not wanting that problem in the future, I thought I would use anti-seize. now that i know thread locker can prevent corrosion, my choice has become clearer. lock the threads, but prevent the corrosion.

[@Moonfleet41]

Good plan Joshua, make sure to use the blue temporary thread lock if you ever want them to come out again.. not the red permanent lock.. !

[@Track848]

Great level of detail here, Prof. Del, thanks for posting. I use one or the other of these on just about every bolt on the Ducati. I suppose it's similar to the Harleys: a lot of twin-vibration going on that pushes a variety of fasteners out. After becoming a regular track day rider, I went to the next level on most of the 'crucial' bolts and have them safety-wired now.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Track848 Hey buddy, thanks for your kind comments, year, lockwiring is just about as hard core as it gets..lol Great to hear from you as always.. Del.

[@limweikiat7831]

Thank you very much, i've been watching your videos. It's been really amazing on how you can really explain everything clearly.

[@paulb19691]

Another great video , it's been a pleasure to view your videos this year and want to thank you both for what has become a fantastic channel. Have a great Christmas and New Year, have a rest but not too long :) Paul

[@Moonfleet41]

+Paul Bickley Ha ha, thanks Paul, you're very kind, we wont be having a rest, got three videos planned for the bikes, and a huge announcement about the garage itself...

[@John-cc1pc]

Sorry re the Harley Road King question below - my confusion is that the hub is ally and the bolts are steel/titanium and the disc will get hot. The manual mentions nothing about the rota fitting using any kind of locking agent. Hope that makes sense. Thanx again. Cheers 👍

[@kklogins]

Hey Del, I hope you can help me answer 2 questions: 1- at the end you say tot use Cooper grease for steel on aluminium. well my manual says to use red loctite on the disks to my wheels, which was beyond difficult to take off. what do you recon in this situation? loctite or copper grease? 2- do the different loctite number reffered to in the manuals have much differences? or do only the colours matter for us shed mechanics? Thanks for all you teach us!

[@Moonfleet41]

Hey Danny, yeah, this can be confusing... the rule of thumb for general unimportant bolts is to use a little copper slip on steel bolts into alloy to prevent galvanic corrosion... but in really important bolts like your brake discs, you must use a Threadlock so they dont come out.... and yes, you are right, red threadlock is almost permanent.. and almost impossible to get out.... so on brake discs i always use BLUE threadlock, which is semi permanent and easy to get out when you need to... in fact, for pretty much all us shed mechanics do the blue threadlock is just fine... hope that helps.. good luck buddy... del.

[@kklogins]

Moonfleet41 yes. that definitely helps! Thanks for the quick response. never needed to stop tinkering... cheers mate.

[@christophershirley1303]

Hi Del & Penny Sorry to bring up a 12 month old thread, but I have a question if thats okay. I'm trying to bring an old VFR750 back to it's prime and so far have had to drill out 4 fairing bolts to get some panels off (was careful not to melt the panels) and they were SOLID. Now my question would be should I use threadlock on the mudguard and fairing fastener bolts or copper slip? The mudguard goes onto the fork lowers (I presume these are aluminium), and the panel bolts would go into steel (i presume) receiver nuts. At the moment I havent bought replacement bolts but the bolt kits online seem to all be stainless steel so will probably go that way.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Christopher, you dont need anything on them buddy, use the stainless ones, and just fit them in securely without over doing it.. they'll stay there and wont corrode.... never use threadlock, they wont come out buddy... just a smear of regular grease is fine mate.. ! Good lukc wiht the bike, and Merry Christmas.. Del.

[@John-cc1pc]

Sorry to ask more but .... I have a 2004 Road King rear wheel. Looking at the Harley Manual (thanx for that good advice to get it - they are good like you said). For the belt drive sprocket it says "apply two drops of red 271" I am a bit worried as it will need to be replaced at some time relatively soon and don’t want to complicate removal process. Would the less permanent Loctite 2400 medium strength thread locker be ok? The disc rota has no mention of using thread lock however it had thread lock in, I guess from the factory. So should I also use the same Loctite 2400 on the rota as well or just copper ease? The bolts I replacing are more like the stainless type so I would guess yes. Please advise? Thank you for your help. I think I know the answer but I am a bit of a worrier and just want to do the right thing. Thank you in advance. Keep up the fantastic work 😊😊.

[@Moonfleet41]

With all respect my friend, you are overthinking it a little... go ahead and use the red threadlock if it gives you confidence in the security of the fasteners and if you ever need to remove them in the future, just apply a little heat to the bolt head with a small blowtorch, not enough to make it change colour, and that will melt the threadlock. If you are using stainless fasteners, there's no need for anti-seize products as they shouldn't corrode in place, but it's then possible they can vibrate a little loose, so just a dab of blue threadlock will be fine on each bolt to hold it in place. That's all you need to do, don't loose any sleep over it buddy and enjoy the process.

[@John-cc1pc]

@@Moonfleet41 Thank you so much. Overthinking it 🤔 sounds like me 🤣😂 You are a total star. Thank you for everything 👍👍 Cheers mate. Safe rides 👍🤜

[@byronand5]

Well done presentation and very helpful... I think I finally understand now, thanks! Hi to Penny!

[@Moonfleet41]

+Byron Anderson Hi Byron, thank you most kindly Sir, Penny will be back soon, working flat out up till Christmas day, then we have lots of much more interesing things to do, and a big move coming too...!!! Hope you and the five are all well, take care and hap[y holidays.. D&P.

[@guoitdreuy]

Nice video, do you have to worry about cooper slip making booked come undone? For example the previous owner used it on the wheel bolts of my car but I thought best just to do them up dry. If something does not get hot and you don't want it to come undone is just doing it up dry fine? It will this lead to snapped bolts later on?

[@Moonfleet41]

The presence of any form of grease on a wheel lug will prevent it rusting in place...they get wet with salty road water and they get hot..so they will rust if they're dry.! and Copper slip is far better than grease because it wont melt away.. wheel nuts do get hot... just place your hand in the middle of your wheel after a hard drive with lots of braking.. no need to overdo it, just a very light dab on the thread only, and torque them up to the right level.. they wont come undone buddy... antisieze doesn't mean they come undone, it means they wont seize..!

[@harrypalmer7169]

This is a great series Del, thank you.

[@Moonfleet41]

+harry “hoggroastminty” palmer Thanks Harry, glad you're enjoying it..

[@pinkerton2964]

Brilliant vids I did level 1 to 3 light vehicle mechanic 20 years ago & always either learning new skills or topping up what you already know/thought I knew or forgot. When I was target shooting many gun smiths used nail varnish instead of threadlock. Question why do manufacturers still use none stainless bolts/studs for headers when it's a well known snapping/corrosion problem.

[@Moonfleet41]

+james grocott Nail varnish is a great surrogate threadlock, and it can fix a ladder in your tights too apparently..lol Glad you enjoyed the video, have a great Christmas.. Del.

[@markneville5235]

Hi Del, In your HD clutch video you used a 4 to 14nm T bar torque wrench where did you get it from as I have looked all over the web and could find anything , Regards, Mark.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Mark.. Here you go buddy, this link will take you direct to the RECON site and they are usually in stock to buy now mate... www.reconelectrical.co.uk/Wiha-Torque-T-Handle--T-Plus-TorqueVario-Set

[@Gringo_In_Chile]

What about using silicone grease for brake calipers? I think that I read somewhere that it is a suitable substitute for thermal grease such as copper anti-seize lubricants. Thanks!

[@boarder7446]

+Ken Cosi I've read a similar thing stating that silicon grease is better due to it not being a petroleum based product. Apparently the petroleum in copper grease eats away at rubber such as the seals on calliper pistons. I used it when i changed the callipers on my car and have never had a problem. Any thoughts Del ?

[@Gringo_In_Chile]

Boarder 74, thanks for backing me up on this. What I need to know is in general does silicone grease have the same high thermal properties as anti-seize grease? Yeah Del, what's your take on this? Can I use this or not?

[@Moonfleet41]

+Ken Cosi You don't use copper grease on rubber seals EVER... so whether it eats away at them or not is irrelevant, you shouldn't put it on them and if you want to know whether your silicone grease is heat proof, then just try setting fire to it... you'll soon get your answer ! Personally, I've never used it...

[@alfonsosilva5836]

And if you have already put thread locker on a steel bolt to an aluminum body... What is the more secure way to remove it?

[@ModernNeandertal]

I just put my Buell motorcycle motor back in the frame and used anti-seize and no thread lock. Not because of this video because I just came upon this a few minutes ago. But I sure am glad I watched your video and it certainly makes sense to me. Buell recommends threadlock but I agree with you and the heck with Buell.

[@KarlTheDingbat]

I have in the past used wood varnish and nail varnish as gheto thread lock, it seems to work but takes a bit longer to cure.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Karl the Dingbat Superglue, touchup stick paint, nail varnish, fiberglass resin, UHU glue, or even plumbers tape... use what you have aye mate...lol

[@johnnewman3221]

sir, I have a silly question, is that nickel anti seize compound magnetic, because it has nickel in it? and is it silver in color. Im doing some fun project and looking to buy one. please reply I couldnt find it elsewhere

[@sofianmisadi3879]

I’m planning to change the OEM brake disc bolts to titanium bolts. I would imagine that it’ll be hot, so i’d have to put on grease. But the service manual says ALOC bolts, which after some googling around - it’s just bolts with thread lock on them. Your thoughts?

[@Moonfleet41]

Always use some medium strength blue thread lock on disc bolts at least, the hub wont get hot enough to melt it.

[@joelbibby84]

Hello, you were talking about stainless fastener replacement, what would you suggest as far as torque settings? I’ve over tightened before using settings in Haynes manuals. Now I only use standard steel bolts

[@Moonfleet41]

This is a thorny subject mate, but I would always suggest to stick with the correct fasteners and the torque settings if you can, old threads that get a lot of action, like sump plugs, can get worn out and weak over the years, then you go to torque in the plug one day and for no apparent reason it strips... it was the dozens of times that plug has been tightened, just a tiny bit too much and stretched the threads just a tiny bit, eventually they give up and strip... stainless fasteners are fine, just make sure they don't rattle loose, because you don't get any of the normal corrosion that you do from regular bolts... so a light dab of blue threadlock can help stop them moving, and just do them up to the min. torque you can, as long as it's within spec.

[@joelbibby84]

Delboy's Garage thanks, I did like another video that you uploaded to rust proof and turn bolts black, that’s probably the way forward 😁

[@richardpavey1687]

Hi Joel. To be on the safe side, Delboy is right. But if you need to know: I use stainless fasteners all the time for LOW-LOAD, NON-CRITICAL applications. Please bear in mind that the "stainless steel" commonly available for bolts is NOT AS STRONG as a medium grade steel bolt, e.g. 8.8 grade (ISO 898-1), therefore you cant really apply the manufacturers recommended torque setting to them without the risk of overloading them and snapping them off, especially if you have introduced a lubricant such as anti-seize compound. So if you arent tightening them up properly, the joint is not securely clamped according to the way it was designed and it can fail or shake free. In reality, there is always a bit of leeway in the strength of a bolt, so maybe they wont snap when your tightening them, but your getting into murky territory by using a material that wasnt considered in the original mechanical design. Going deeper into the stainless grades, the first thing to know is that there are literally hundreds of different grades of stainless steel. By far the most common for the nuts and bolts commonly available to us is 304 (18/8, or 18% Cr, 8% Ni) which, in the context of bolts is usually referred to as A2. There is also A4 grade, which is 316, which has more molybdenum added and makes it more corrosion resistant in salt water and maybe slightly stronger, this is usually sold as a "marine grade" fastener. These are available in different strength classes. The standard that covers the stainless bolting grades is BS EN ISO 3506-1.

[@stevem9144]

Great explanation and demos. Fantastic! Thank you.

[@JOEWOLCHAK1]

Had a tough time getting car tire / rim off wheel to change . I had to beat it off with a mini sledge and a block of wood on the rim. Can I use anti freeze on lug nuts and where rim touches metal to metal on the car wheel ? If so, where can I apply it to the rim to make tire changing / removal easier ?

[@Korrupted8787]

+Joseph Wolchak Yes and yes, wire brush lugs and the hub and the back of the rim where it makes contact then clean it off and put a thin film where ever it contacts. Also if its a hub centric rim/hub don't forget to do the same there as well.

[@idjr2654]

Thank you for sharing the knowledge!

[@luxlamf]

2 Questions, HD recommends I use the Silver Anti Seize for my Axles (not the copper), Trumpet states I should use a bearing grease on my Axles. Why you think that is? Also if I have been using the Silver Anti Seize on my bikes can I just start using the Copper instead? I ask because the Silver/Nickel stuff is twice the price as Copper.

[@Moonfleet41]

+luxlamf There is nothing inferior about Coppergrease, it's perfectly adequate for the job, but the aluminium graphite stuff is simply a much higher spec. that you don't really need... in scientific terms, it has a much higher melting point and as the graphite particles are hard it is more crush resistant in extreme tolerances... none of which will be reached on a regular road motorcycles! You can change over from one to the other, just clean off the old stuff and apply the new!

[@luxlamf]

+Moonfleet41 Thanks, still wondering why HD calls for Anti Seize on its axles and Trumpet says grease though, I would assume my wheel bearings are in grease...

[@Moonfleet41]

+luxlamf Yes, wheel bearings are always on grease...and it must be worked in hard to get it all round the rollers..

[@John-cc1pc]

Nice one, as always, thanks 😊 I have an Ali hub which has steel bolts into it - for break disc one side and belt drive on the other. The old ones were very difficult to remove due to age and corrosion. The manual called for thread lock but the thought of trying to get them out again at some point freaked me out so I just toques them in with a little copper ease on them. Should I just keep and eye on them or do you think I should strip it and thread lock it? Also the red bottle of thread lock has blue lock in it - is this the permanent one you said not to use. Thank you in advance for your advice and thank you for you continued vids and advice. Cheers 👍🤜

[@Moonfleet41]

NO John, you must use thread lock on your hub, just like the manual says.. don't worry about getting them out.. if the threads are clean when you assemble them with threadlock, then there is no room for corrosion, the threadlock actually inhibits that.. if you have any trouble removing bolts that have threadlock then just apply a little heat to the heads and that will melt it..! Good luck and hope that helps.

[@John-cc1pc]

@@Moonfleet41 excellent, will do. Thank you for that. 👍

[@John-cc1pc]

Sorry to ask but …. The bike is a 2004 Road King rear wheel. Looking at the Harley Manual (thanx for that good advice to get it - they are good like you said😊) the drive sprocket it says “apply two drops of red 271” I am a bit worried as it will need to be replaced at some time. Would the less permanent blue thread lock be ok? The disc rota has no mention of using thread lock however it had thread lock in, I guess from the factory. So should I also use the same blue lock on the rota as well ? The bolts I replacing are more like the stainless type so I would guess yes. Please advise? Thank you for your help. I am a bit of a worrier and just want to do the right thing. Thank you in advance.

[@Supernova12034]

Great video, so... dont use locktit on break calipers?

[@EdgarMendezz]

What do you recommend putting on the bolts from a F150 driveshaft? Where it connects to the differential. Blue thread locker? It is steel to steel.

[@richhemmings]

Del, Generally I copper slip everything except the critical bolts which get locked, video made me think! What about brake rotor bolts? My workshop manual says do up to only 20Nm so feels like threadlock, but with the heat and composition of bolts vs alloy hubs I'm a little bemused which I should use :/

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Rich... ive made several videos on bolting discs on the right way, and each one is in great detail and concise... ALWAYS Threadlcok, new bolts of you can afford them, if not then clear out all old threadlock from the bolts thread.... and torque down in a star pattern... its a low torque value because its a torsional force on the bolt (sideways) not a pulling force...

[@richhemmings]

Cool. thanks - sorry, I haven't got to those yet!

[@thehexter1]

Excellent classroom video, very informative. I've always been confused by these products. But then again, confusion is my middle name!

[@Moonfleet41]

+thehexter1 Blimey, and i thought it was my middle name..lol Thanks mate, glad the video helped you out, always drop me a line f you get stuck.

[@thehexter1]

We're all confused, and idiots as well! Have a great Christmas or whatever it is you & the little lady celebrate!

[@Drakos99]

you confused me right at the end when it seemed you were saying not to use thread lock in alloy threads, but up til that point i was thinking i better get some for things like the bar clamps and riser bolts as the last thing i want is to be wheelying a 200kg bike and the bars to come off the yokes in my hands, but the clamps that hold the bars to the risers are steel bolts into alloy risers and below that the same, steel bolts into the yokes, so what do you suggest, spring washers or just copper slip? cheers

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi buddy, it is confusing, and am sorry that it isn't always clear, above all things, you don't want the bolts seizing in place if you wanna remove them in the future - I've never threadlocked handlebar clamps and they've always been fine... as you've got steel in to alloy, the very best product to use would be a graphite anti-seize compound, as long term, and in the presence of salt, copperslip can promote galvanic corrosion, so the grey graphite anti-seize is better... but above all, remember if you threadlock them in with the correct BLUE threadlock, then they will never come out till you intend them to, and they wont' corrode either, as the threadlock acts as a barrier, so either way, it works... I know it's confusing, and again am sorry about that, but there is always an element of common sense attached to these things... and glad to hear you wheelie your bike, stunts rock !

[@Drakos99]

thanks for the clarification, only discovered you this week and subscribed after the first vid', with tips like pinning the chain to free off the front sprocket, never thought of that in 30 years of owning, fixing, building and thrashing bikes, i always used brake or something to block the wheel against the swing arm like a handy pick axe handle or table leg (always seem to have one or the other about ;-) brilliant tutorials, and am no great stunter, but at 51 riding a bike still brings out the hooligan in me even when i was just thinking i'd calmed down!

[@matthewbeaver5026]

I have gray anti seize can i use it in place of blue locktight on an ar buffer tube? Or should I get the locktight....or just pin in place with punch and hammer? Thanks for any help

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi buddy, that grey anti-seize sounds like the graphite version, just as good as copper and if you're specification calls for threadlock, then that's what you should use, anti-seize will not stop things shaking loose, threadlock is form of glue that helps to prevent that...and a pin punch method is classic old school stuff and will work really well for a flush fitting screw.

[@MrG00ny65]

I have R&G Aero crash protectors for my CB1000R which bolt into the engine mounts. Would it be a good idea to use copper grease on these or a bit of threadlock? I have a torque wrench so they will be correctly tightened up.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Goonster As they are steel on steel and don't get hot, plus it's important they don't come off, I'd go with a dab of threadlock...

[@MrG00ny65]

+Moonfleet41 Cheers, thanks for the tip Del. You look great sat behind a desk! lol Great video :)

[@Moonfleet41]

+Goonster Thanks mate, i did enjoy making that..

[@nazimmultani6177]

Sir wheel bolt which kind grease use.? And car teo hock point which kind grease use

[@gearjammer3688]

As a youngster I remember putting the exhausts back on my RD350 and 'wisely' using common or garden grease. did not take long to vanish into a cloud of putrid smoke (from the wrong end) and fill the barn so we had to abandon ship or choke to death, How we laughed.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Gearjammer Happy days growing up lol...!

[@Techathy]

I was taught to use thread lock on steel to aluminium to prevent the galvanic corrosion. in this situation the galvanic corrosion can lock the thread hard & copper grease can aid galvanic corrosion, assembly grease may act as a thread lubricant requiring a higher than safe torque setting & the thread lock is much cheaper than the more exotic greases.

[@Moonfleet41]

+G. Bell "Zinc to alloy can lead to white corrosion if salt gets involved", and as for copper grease actually 'aids' galvanic corrosion...who on earth told you that.. it defies the laws of chemestry mate...

[@Techathy]

+Moonfleet41 2 possibly 3 metallurgy lectures. We even proved it in labs.

[@Moonfleet41]

+G. Bell Sombody better tell Loctite then, they obviously dont know..!

[@Techathy]

+Moonfleet41 When I was at collage we did two whole semester modules on galvanic corrosion. We went from purely passive corrosion which could happen with electrically conductive fluid present to some rather specific an seriously edge case scenarios. I know galvanic corrosion with copper grease requires some fairly specific conditions, it's not just a case of adding a bit of conductive fluid, before it happens but it's not in the almost impossible edge case range.

[@Clungedoctor]

Great tips, what do you recommend for brake discs? both heat and movement, obviously not copper grease but is thread lock a safe bet

[@Moonfleet41]

+CLUNGE - DOCTOR If you are refering to bolting dics on to your wheel rim, then yes, you should use new bolts and some threadlock... this is as recommended by the manufacturer!

[@Clungedoctor]

Sweet thought so. Thanks

[@markneville5235]

Cheers Del , Thank you for sending that link for toque T bar wrench now another bit quality for the toolbox and loving your videos Cheers Mark.

[@Moonfleet41]

Most welcome Mark, good investment mate.. thanks for your support and kind feedback..

[@Krizla4]

Hey Del, Where did you het those big crash bars on that rat bandit you once made, the brand was Jawa or somehting, I want them for my MK2 B ... don't know how to contact you in another way. Cheers

[@Moonfleet41]

+Kris Schobben Hi mate, they were 'Jama' brand and they are a discontinued model now, but perhaps do a search and see if you might be able to find a NOS pair... otherwise, maybe Ebay... good luck with your search buddy !

[@choppergirl]

What about spraying cold galvanizing compound on your threads? Also, cotter pins and safety wire. I don't have any castle nuts, so I drill a cotter pin hole through the bolt just past the nut, but I think it would work better keeping the nut from turning if it were through the nut, but then you compromise the bolt and nut strength...

[@clintselby5035]

Plumbers always use a special fitting when connecting copper pipe to (galvanized) steel pipe because of the electrolysis between the 2 dissimilar metals. So what about this Copper Slip that seems to be so popular in the UK? Is it not subject to electrolysis as well? I’ve always used the grey anti-seize with graphite in it as I’ve no worries about Electrolysis and because it works. What do you think?

[@steveokeefe9905]

Very useful. I’m new to motorbike maintenance and your videos are really helpful. I’m very familiar with galvanic corrosion, doesn’t copper slip accelerate that when used in aluminium? Also what are the effects on torque ratings? Is there a danger of over torquing due to the lubricant effect?

[@Nightdare]

Pure copper is a tad harder (3 mohs) material than aluminum(2.5 to 3 mohs for pure Alu) But bikes are often harder alu alloys, copper powder combined with the grease, will not solidify as easily and galling is also diminished As for torque ratings, when applying any kind of grease or threadlock, always torque down a little lower than the boltspec prescribes

[@Focused_Veteran]

Hi Del and Penny, Just wanted to wish you guys a Merry Christmas and Happy New year, looking forward to next year and some decent weather! plan is to get along to a the first available meet a share a brew. All the best Dave

[@Moonfleet41]

+Muckateers Hi Dave, thank for your kind wishes, have a great Christmas and prosperous new year, and see you on a meet soon.. all the best.. D&P

[@PaulR387]

Great explanation of both these products, Cheers Del..

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you Paul. Glad you enjoyed it!

[@marshallcollins8634]

Great video as always.a little off topic but what kind of watch are you wearing? I'm going to try to save this as I can never remember. I only have 2 brain cells left and it's hard to get them to get together and do anything.🤔 I just realized I just proved my point. Thanks

[@zoomermcboomer4771]

Great video, even though it's 7 years old, I learned a lot.

[@Bignbeardedadventures]

Can I use molybdenum instead of copper ease on rear of brake pads etc I got a tub a decade ago not used, and does any of this type of stuff go off , great vids by the way, do u have a video on basic workshop tools .

[@Moonfleet41]

Yes mate, pretty much its just for vibration absorption, so as long as it doesn't melt wit heat (which moly grease doesnt), then its fine.

[@ThePlanBPill]

great video. Just started my bike build and was really concerned with where to use what for safety.

[@tmmyjay]

Can you recommend an anti seize product for ss bolts on aluminum cases of an RD400F? I believe corrosion is a concern as well, so any info is appreciated...I have a tube of Permatex Aluminum Anti-Seize #81343, but am not a huge fan of their products...

[@richardpavey1687]

Alumslip is the way to go. I know your post is from three years ago but hey-ho; better late..... I posted something further up a few minutes ago if you want more detail.

[@TheGrizzlyGarage]

Thanks I appreciate this information, great explanation!

[@TheRunereaper]

Good video again Del. How about stainless to stainless? It's awful stuff to get apart once it's picked up and straight anti-seize doesn't always cut the mustard like say,Tribol. I'm not sure about stuff like Loctite Studlock being permanent, it just seems to hold better... like a plastic with a higher shear value. You really do get the message across and I've learned a lot from you. Thanks for posting.

[@Moonfleet41]

+TheRunereaper Best thing I've ever found with stainless to stainless (provided it's cold) is simple Blue Threadlock... it acts as it's own corrosion inhibitator, but you don't need much if it's a precision thread, just a dab!

[@ianmcd7523]

thanks for that del,, some nice and useful info as always. wishing you guys a merry Christmas

[@Moonfleet41]

+Ian Mcd H You too Ian, thanks for watching mate..!

[@bigfatpear]

I loved this video.Cheers Del !

[@KoolBreeze420]

This is the stuff I use on my motorized mountain bike none of the nuts could handle the vibration even with lock washers so I had to use the red permatex thread sealant. The red just means it's for use in high temperature area's so I used it for anything that gets hot like the muffler.

[@fahdiqbal2221]

Why does Loctite C5-A have a Use By date? Does it go bad?

[@thecor5]

is it a good idea to to put copper slik on your barke pistons to stop it from binding

[@Moonfleet41]

+5foot7 honda Hi mate, you smear it on the back of brake pad itself, not on the pistons.... and no thicker than butter on a biscuit!

[@literaryartist1]

You are the man. Great explanation and insight.

[@michaelcooksmd]

Hi, just a quick question. I remembered this video and have used anti-seize (copper or aluminum, depending on temperature) since then. But what's your take on using an anti-seize compound on spark plugs?

[@MrAlmar07]

Another Video full of great info. Cheers mate.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Alan Bell Thanks mate, simple stuff... and got more simple skills videos coming!

[@jakeleach4144]

How are the TEC shocks holding up on your Triumph Scrambler?

[@Moonfleet41]

+Jake Leach Just fine Jake, they loosen up and develop a bit more give and suppleness after about 200 miles, and they are so much better then the factory ones... also just fitted a pair on the Harley Sportster... had to make some spacers for them to fit, video coming soon on that... and TEC will be making the spacers to send out with the shocks as we worked out what was needed... then they'll be available for sale as Harley spec too..!!!

[@jakeleach4144]

+Moonfleet41 Good to know! I was thinking about getting a pair to try and fit on my rd350 scrambler.

[@michaelthompson3381]

Might be a good idea to investigate the relationship between Anti Seize / Thread Lube and the listed Torque settings for a particular fastener. Lots of threads are accidently stripped by tightening up to a Torque value which is applicable to a "dry"" (un-lubed) assembly. Setting your Torque Wrench to the recommended setting for a dry assembly will overtighten by a considerable amount when the threads are lubed with anti seize. Some manuals will give a recommendation such as "lightly oiled threads" when listing a particular Torque value. (Although I personally have never seen this in a Motorcycle manual). My own method is to only use recommended Torque settings on dry threads unless the use of anti seize / thread lube has been taken into account and is mentioned in a manual. Of course it will take a good few years of experience to get "the feel" for just how tight an assembly is as there are quite a lot of variables such as materials, thread pitch and size to take into consideration.

[@transdimensionalist]

there are charts which list the relative torque values for lubed and dry threads, do a search

[@x-man5056]

You have a misunderstanding of torque and torque value. The torque value of a fastener is based ONLY in the materials of the fastener and material it is threaded into and the clamping force required. Lubricating the threads does NOT reduce the clamping force requirement or the strength of the fasteners thread. If there is a chart out there describing a reduction in torque value based on lubricating threads it is a total piece of rubbish. The truth is torquing a fastener with no lube* gives you a slightly lower bolt stretch/clamping force. In other words, the appropriate clamp force/torque is more accurately achieved with lubed threads. Instead of reducing the torque on wet threads, it would be more accurate to increase the torque on dry threads. Torque specs are given for "best thread condition". Any other standard would infinitely variable. Example: engine builder...Rod, Main, and Head bolts on an engine NEVER go in dry. The torque in the spec is the torque used to get the clamping force required. That clamping force could be easily reduced by installing the bolts dry. (steel bolt into cast iron the worst for this) I worked as Manufacturing Quality Engineer for USDOD in the rocket engine industry. Nearly every fastener on a rocket engine not installed with thread locker is installed with Anti-Seize, even the ones that go into locking fasteners. We would use a dial indicating torque wrench to measure the drag caused by the locking fastener, and ADD that value to the torque, but no additional torque to compensate for anti-seize or lube, it is completely unnecessary and would not be correct. *Anti-Seize is not technically not designed to be a lubricant. It works by sealing threads from moisture, creating a noble metal layer between metals, often dissimilar metals. Because of its grease like nature, it does provide a lubricating layer for fastener install, but that is not it's purpose, just an added feature. It does help prevent galling of aluminum threads with SS fasteners, but Anti-Seize has no film strength, no service duty. It is not grease. Though it feels like you may be over torquing on a wet install, all of the material, threads,and required clamping force remain the same, you are getting a more accurate torque which equates to bolt stretch/clamping force with a wet install and likely slightly under torquing with a dry install because of the drag from the threads and possibly the shank or shoulder of the bolt. Always torque to spec., wet or dry install, shot in the dark guesstimates of reductions in torque are inappropriate, unnecessary.

[@x-man5056]

@@transdimensionalist Show me.

[@TheBazza2556]

very good video again mate, gonna be working shifts over xmas so wanna take this chance to wish you and penny all the very best for christmas and the new year, thank you so much for the vids this year and long may it continue, you have saved me and othrs lots of cash, so i hope santa brings you some thing good, and hopefully a christmas bloopers...that would be funny... all the best pal

[@Moonfleet41]

+Bazza Yamaha FZS Thanks Bazza... merry christmas to you too buddy... glad to the videos have helped you out... may do a merry christmas video over the holidays and got a couple of jobs to do on the bikes... but a big announcement coming for the new year! Have fun, all the best, D&Px

[@fentonbrewer]

Just watched your clip, very interesting. But you didn't mention not to use st/steel nuts on st/steel bolts. For some reason they fur up and its a bugger of a job to get them apart.

[@genechicago4806]

Great Video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Do you need special sockets for Triumph Motorcycles? I own a 2010 Triumph Speedmaster. I was going to replace the crank position sensor, but none of my sockets fit the right hand cover screws. A 7 mm is too small, an 8 mm is a bit loose, but I can't find any 7.5 mm or a 10/32 SAE socket here in Chicago. How about doing a video on the type of tools needed to work on the triumph bikes and where you we buy them?

[@Moonfleet41]

+Gene Chicago Hi Gene... thats very odd, all the fasteners on Triumphs these days are just regular metric...i take mine out with an 8mm socket and no problems... do you think that maybe sombody has changed them?... its unlikely i would think... there are many size scales still in use in the engineering world, most people only know Metric or A/F (American fine), commonly refered to as just "Imperial" but in fact there as a few other "Imperial scales" that will give you what you need... you're right there is no 10/32, that is 5/16 AF, which is 7.94mm Then there is the old "Whitworth" scale, so 3/32W is 7.54mm and finally there is the ols pre1940's "BA scale, so 3BA is 7.16mm You can buy any of these tools from good quality suppliers like Snap-On, or Blue Point....and if you need it for such an important job, then just investing in that one size may be affordable... Hope that helps you sir... Cheers Del.

[@genechicago4806]

+Moonfleet41 Thank you for replying. The sockets I have are from GM and the size is stamped on the socket. I'll buy some 8 mm sockets from different brands, and the Whitworth ones too, to see if that makes a difference. You're awesome for sharing your knowledge. Have a good day!

[@John-cc1pc]

Excellent, as always 😊 How can I remove thread lock from a female thread surrounded by painted surface? Thank you in advance. Safe rides 👍🤜

[@Moonfleet41]

Try gently running a thread tap down the hole, work backwards and forwards gently, and then blow out with an airline... good luck with it, let us know how you get on!