Delboy's Garage, Triumph Bonneville Rear Brake Upgrade.

Up close and In detail, Rear Brake Disc and Pads change.
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All Parts Sourced from :- Wemoto.com
Music today all from "Cillhop Essentials", Tracks :-
13 Bridges, by;- Deeb
Swansong, by;- Handbook
In-Bloom, by;- Mo Anando
Seasons, by;- ASO
Master of The Sun, by'- ADMB
Loose Change, by;- Anonymous Musik (Prod. Deeb)
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[@theJourney-gc]

You’ve got people that are really good in mechanical work and you’ve got people who have those skills AND possess the talent of explaining & teaching others to enter the world of engineering and truely start to love working on their own bikes because of this. Thanks for bringing the enthusiasm and confidence to us viewers. As a former teacher I really appreciate your channel the way you share your passion and knowledge. Cheers from the Netherlands, Gert

[@Moonfleet41]

Good evening Gert, thank you so much from us both for such kind words of support and encouragement... it's a team effort and we both work together to make it happen... once again, we really appreciate your kind comments and we're glad to have you aboard!

[@weddingdjstevedeehertfords9862]

Delboy's Video's.. Are so great.. Helps me with work on my Triumph Thunderbird 900.. All My Brakes are working so well now.. Full rebuild, Disc & Pad, Front & Back.. Fantastic.. Cheers Delboy.. !

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you buddy, and I think you have the coolest user name on You Tube and reading your message, I think you're going to rather like the next project we're rolling in in a week or so!

[@weddingdjstevedeehertfords9862]

Hi Delboy.. You may like this Video.. Cool as hell. kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5-okKutjMR9o6M Cheers Mate Steve

[@Moonfleet41]

@@weddingdjstevedeehertfords9862 Cool as hell indeed mate.. Diggin with the Dog pound.!

[@assaultprepper9263]

Really appreciate your low-key explanations and completely thorough approach to the work being done. I wish all mechanics took the time to do it right. Regards from Southeastern Idaho.

[@phonicwheel933]

Another excellent video: you are a skilled mechanic, technician, artist and presenter.

[@JeffGillis1]

Handy tool for brakes work is fairly common in northern North America as each 1/5 (750 ml) bottle of Crown Royal has a purple & gold flannel bag. These fit perfectly over calipers and with draw string easily attach to bike in ideal location.

[@hansolavhellese4726]

Very informative channel for motorcycle fixing. The best so far. Easy moving forward and its easy to follow. Keep up the good work.

[@Onei1y]

Outstanding demonstration. Many thanks. My Speedy 1050 rear brake is clearly in need of a clean up at least. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@keithconroy1779]

cheers mate just changed front n back brake pads ....no problems, keep up the good work

[@donatasbutenas9666]

I wish this video was 5 years ago. I had a lot of problems with my 125 varadero back then. knowledge is power.

[@cocolopo691]

The rain...is beautiful...i love the winter and the rain good video good bike and so good job from argentina buenos aires congratulations you're a master

[@johnfournier2492]

Great video! Once again, teaching this old dog new tricks! About to retire so I'm looking forward to putting all the stuff I'm learning into practice. Fortunately my pro is just around the corner if I get too far ahead of myself! 🤓

[@geneahart5607]

Del, even six years on this video is still very informative and useful, thanks.

[@Moonfleet41]

Very welcome, thank you for your feedback..

[@DustyRobertson]

Im so glad i stayed up till 1 for this

[@charubeable]

Thanks again for the awesome video as always, Del! @11:55 you recommended a HT white lithium grease on the sliding pins. I was referencing a service manual and it said 'Never use mineral-based grease (such as lithium or copper-based grease) in any part of the braking system or in any area where contact with the braking system is possible. Mineral-based grease will damage the hydraulic seals and dust seals in the calipers and master cylinders.' It also suggested lubrication with silicon-based grease (T2022021) for the mounting bracket pins. Should I just go with your choice as I always have? Thanks!

[@streetbob883]

Fantastic video as always , Thanks to you, I have successfully changed my rear pads and ordered some stainless steel pins I'll follow your video and do the fluid next, keep up the good work . I hope your channel is a financial success and you make a good living off it. PS I think you should get a softail slim next , [ no it's not because I have one] - OK it is.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you for your kind words, and im glad the videos have been able to help you out, good luck with the fluids, and yeah, i'd love a Softail slim, what a classic icon and great to see Harley still making old school bikes that will never date.

[@Terrybikesandmusic]

Hi Delboy .... Ive just watched your video because I am changing front and rear brakes on my Triumph Street Twin 2020 and like you, I like to give them a little clean at the same time. My fault, I've allowed the dealer to talk me into doing these sort of jobs, normally same time as my mot. So ... this time, doing it myself, I completely forgot where to start what to look out for and so on. Thats when one of your videos comes in very handy. Brilliantly explained, nice no rush, easy to understand. I do tend to skip bits, until I find the bit I need a refresher on. Like caliper Slide carrier you show above. Mine is stuck. Even though I've done brakes many times, there is a long time lapse so, I couldn't for the life of me remember if its suppose to move or even pull out all together. Your video was amazing in showing just what I needed. Thanks very much for taking the time and effort to make these videos and for explaining everything so patiently and well. I'm sure many people must also appreciate it. 10/10

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you so much for youe kind words of support Terry, im really glad the video can help you out.. i totally understand what you mean, when we only do jobs once every couple of years, it's easy to forget the little details.. Hope it all went ok, and of course.. Ride safe mate. !

[@disabledman8697]

In the absence of lithium grease, i'd argue that due to the nature of electric charge, corrosion due to electron transfer and so on, ceramic high temp grease is superior to copper slip while being not that expensive either ( I think i paid 8€ for a 300gramm tube) in places where aluminium and steel touch.

[@springy-2112]

oooooh it's like open university for bikers... Cheers proffessor Del !! If you ask for lithium grease red rubber grease copperslip ht axle grease or graphite anti seize up here near Yorkshire they hand you a tub of lard !!! ♿

[@Moonfleet41]

Ha ha.. i have to chuckle at some of the adenoidal critics who tell me i should use this or that special chemical, and then proceed to lay on how dangerous it is to use the wrong grease here or there (usually as they shove glasses up their nose with middle finger and snort)... everyone's an expert aye Paul.... back in the day my old man had one tub of grease in the garage and that did everything.. he lubed his Triumph chain with old engine oil and a paint brush... How the world has changed aye... Im gonna buy shares in Prunes i think.. because so many people need them these days aye..!

[@GTsGarage]

So much decent info here, cheers Del

[@Moonfleet41]

Ayup buddy.. good to hear from you again.. hope life is good for you and yours mate.. Del.

[@andrewives1659]

Watched this last night after I got an MOT advisory for a sticky calliper. Took it apart as per Del’s step by step instructions, cleaned it all up, pushed the pots out, cleaned and red grease liberally applied to the pots, slide bar and rubbers, then copper slip on the threads of the pad pins. Didn’t change my pads as they weren’t old and were not showing any uneven wear. Works a treat now. Cheers! I’m going to upgrade the pots to the TRK from Wemoto when it’s next time to do the pads.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks for the feedback Andrew, im glad you got it fixed, it's usually just dirt that hangs up the pistons, and little more then a quick clean is all they need.. you'll love the TRK pistons when you come to that, they are way better made than the factory ones, a definite upgrade..

[@albertochb]

Details make everything, delboys attention to every little thing makes this videos so useful and entertaining. This is what you call quality content, simple as that.

[@DevinJuularValentine]

Just bought OEM throttle cable from Wemoto - should have waited for this video and gone for the slinky glide! Although you do a lot of the same job on your channel, you impart different bits of knowledge each time, some small detail or tip, which makes it very worthwhile to see. Also of course repetition as a viewer helps embed the knowledge, as does seeing it done on different types of bikes. With the wheel alignment, would measuring the length of the pulley bolt sticking out work to double check, or am I being an idiot?

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi mate, Sorry, "Measuring the length of the pulley bolt"... what pulley mate?, not sure what you mean..?

[@jerryx2000]

Hi mate what is you opinion on the 06 vs 10 Speed Triple?

[@Moonfleet41]

Sadly i have never owned either Jeremy so couldn't really offer a worthwhile opinion..

[@stevenv1992]

Because you lubed the threads on the brake pin, I would knock off 10% from the dry torque specification.

[@Moonfleet41]

Incorrect my friend, all torque values are quoted for lubricated threads!

[@katusbush]

5yrs ago I bought a Triumph Scrambler. (My grandfather rebuilt 6 triumphs from the bolts up between 1945-1998. One went on to place in the Isle of Man in 1948 if I remember correctly. I grew up with the smell of Triumph engine oil in his garage) I wanted to be able to service and maintain MY bikes in that honor (he passed away 3 months after I bought my bike so wasn’t able learn from him). I have managed 100% due to your channel. Please do not underestimate the effect you have by allowing us all into your garage. Massive thank you.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Simon, thank you so much for your very kind words, we are honoured to have been able to help... what a wonderful story about your granddad, I remember mine teaching me many lessons I still cherish today... we never stop missing them aye... appreciate your kind support, Penny still has her Scrambler, so they'll be more videos in the future! Ride safe, and stay in touch, D&Px

[@bllxy8226]

wemoto are the way to go, placed my order for 1 specific part for my bike on the phone & got delivered next day 👌

[@lopesredesdeprotecao9602]

boa noite, excelente vídeo meu amigo. obrigado por adicionar as legendas, compreendi perfeitamente a técnica. Abraço senhor !

[@svsouza2921]

LopES da HORNET Brasil sempre por aqui 👍

[@Moonfleet41]

Obrigado meu amigo, estou feliz que você gostou do vídeo

[@Moonfleet41]

Temos um enorme seguimento do Brasil

[@toris680]

Gran mecanico! Muy fino. Me encantas!

[@Moonfleet41]

Muchas gracias amigo mío, su agradecimiento es muy bienvenido. Del.

[@robertlaloie7471]

We have here in Montréal a Tool made buy Motion Pro to align the chain. The site is fortnine.ca and the Tool is Motion pro chain aligment Tool and the part number is 08-0048. I bêle ivre that is probably one of the n’est way to align the chain properly but your way is also good. I watch your tips on youtube because I believe that we allais learn something new every day. Hope it may help you.

[@kalmanmandel9999]

Dear Delboy, love the content. I recently purchased an 05 Thruxton in racing yellow and you inspired me to do my own maintenance. It seems to need a bunch of work, but most recently I examined the rear breaks and saw uneven pad wear. Upon closer inspection, one of the pistons is tight and barely moves either out using the lever, or back in using my finger. Is there anything to do at this point to fix the offending piston prior to a full caliper overhaul, or am I looking at a full rebuild of this caliper?

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Kyle, good to hear from you and congratulations on the bike... and yes you can do a little maintenance on that that might free it off without having to strip it, just drop the caliper off and take the pads out, hold the free piston (perhaps with a G-clamp) and pump out the offending piston just a little way until you see clean metal, then with lots of hot soapy water and a toothbrush, scrub all round the piston 'gum line' and get it totally clean, then wash all that out with brake cleaner... if you have some, then a little rubber lube smeared round the piston, and then just work it in and out... you can wind it in with the clamp and pump it out a few times to free it off.... then wipe all clean and dry and re-install it. It should give you a stay over execution, at least a few months if you use it every day, but if it doesn't work, then stripping and re-building it certainly will... everything you need you should find in our Playlists!

[@kalmanmandel9999]

@@Moonfleet41 Update, offending piston is still offending me! I did a thorough clean and grease, used the clamp method to slide it in and out a couple of times, but one still does not want to push out. I also flushed and replaced brake fluid. Still not popping out. Unless there is another item to troubleshoot that I am not thinking of, it looks like I'll need the caliper rebuild in the end. (the only other item I can think of is the brake fluid reservoir is weeping ever so slightly but I do not think it is bad enough to cause one of the pistons to stay..) Should I just pop out the pistons, clean the caliper and seals, and then reassemble, or replace components as well? Or does it depend on how shot the pistons are...(mine are not that bad)

[@Moonfleet41]

@@kalmanmandel9999 Hi Kyle, it sounds like this one's being stubborn..., firstly it'll be nothing to do with your weeping fluid, it's unrelated... I imagine it's the classic situation where road salt, which is always there even through the summer, gets in to your system, the heat from the brakes dries away the water and salt crystals form behind the dust seal and physically push it out of it's groove and it just jams the piston... no amount of working it in and out helps, like you say, best solution, pop both pistons out, hook the seals out, clean everything for all it's worth till it looks brand new and re-assemble it all from scratch... you won't need new seals unless you damage one, as you say, the system looks pretty good, but if you find you do once stripped, then Wemoto can get one on your doorstep next day... if you get stuck we've lots of videos on it.... best of luck with it!

[@Soupy_loopy]

Maybe a simple skills video on different types of grease and their uses? I have never seen anything explaining just that. thanks for the great tips.

[@alancuriel123456]

Silicone grease on metal to rubber (caliper slide pins) and copper anti seize on metal to metal contact (where the brake pads sit on the caliper and where the pads touch the brake hardware)

[@prestochango1433]

@@alancuriel123456 @Otto is not My real Name @Moonfleet41 Delboy makes some great comedy videos with copper grease where he absolutley shellacs the brake pads, front and back, with copper grease!! lol I thought he was being serious but someone pointed out to me that it was one of Del's comedy videos on how to not use Copper Grease and it makes sense because no one would put so much grease on the back of break pads, especially modern brake pads that are built with anti sieze and anti squeal low noise pad backing and shims--but in these videos he put on so much copper grease it is coming off the back of the brake pads and getting all over the sides of the brake pads and would definitley have gotten all over the front of the pads and the rotors during the first ride! lol Yikes! Im looking at this and other videos to see if I can find his joke videos again because it's so funny! Apparently he has a few of them but my friend who told me about them didn't have links.. Great videos Delboy! Keep it up! lol

[@rapharider3442]

Great Vid as always mate !!!

[@MrJohnnyt69]

Del, I love it. Without your videos I would be lost and broke. Thanks, your time and commitment are truly appreciated.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks Johnny. you are very welcome mate.!

[@andyhutch8262]

I use my vernia gauge on the length of the adjusting bolt when adjusting the chain on my 13 speedmaster.

[@filmcamera]

Just a word of warning - if your calipers have been powder coated be very careful how you use brake cleaner - it is very easy to 'melt' the powder coating because the brake cleaner is corrosive - don't ask me how I know! :(

[@Moonfleet41]

Doh... thats why you should always 'Paint' calipers with 2k paint... powdercoat isn't the wonder coating it made out to be aye..!

[@brufnus]

+Jonathan Lambert How do you know? c".) :-D

[@prestochango1433]

@Moonfleet41 Why do so many people disagree with how much copper grease you use and they also say you should not be using the copper grease on brake parts at all Del? I am taking apart and cleaning and lubricating parts of my bike and a fellow rider jsut sent me this in an e-mail when I told him you have been promoting the use of copper grease on brake parts: www.greaseexpert.com/brake-grease-vs-anti-seize/ I quote form the website,"If you’re looking for a grease for your brakes, then you should look for a specific brake lubricant for the pins. You can just use a regular ceramic based lubricant for the pads. Do not under any circumstance use a copper grease, as this can be detrimental and have a negative effect on the performance of your brakes. ...Using Copper Grease is a sure way to seize up the slider pins. ...It can have an effect on the ABS sensors. ...Galvanic Corrosion. ...It isn’t even a lubricant. ...Copper is a good conductor. ...the reality is that there are other lubricants that are as effective as copper grease as an anti seize the brakes which are less likely to have adverse side effects. So, it really makes no sense to use a copper grease for your brakes. .. . What to Use Instead of Copper Grease on brake parts: Mission Automotive Grease Mission Automotive Dielectric Grease/Silicone Paste/Waterproof Marine Grease (8 Oz.) - Excellent Silicone Grease Sil Glyde 3M Clear Silicone Paste Permatex Ceramic" There is also a great part that tells you how to Properly grease the brake slide pins with The Right Grease!!! The article ends by summing it up pretty well: "Conclusion Overall, these are the best options for you if you’re trying to grease your brake pins. They are definitely the best options - if you’re trying to grease your own brakes, you’ll undoubtedly want to opt for a lubricant specifically designed for this need. Some mechanics and others will use whatever they have on hand [such as inferior copper grease which isn't right for brakes at all!], but for safety you should use a good quality brake grease to be safe."

[@MrDjsmiley100]

Hi delboy I just wanted to ask if kindly, am due to change my tyres and I am confuse of which ones to get,if advisory,I have a susuki gsxs 1000 and I wanted a sporty looking tyres for my bike, so I want something that last long for road and touring in a long journey if possible many thanks

[@michaelcaton9358]

Honestly, I am going to treat my next motorcycle as well as you treat yours.....

[@liamjones4843]

Hi Del, I noticed when you did the rat bike pads you put copper grease on the back of the pads.. but you didn’t put any on these ones.. I’m about to change the pads on my Street Twin, just wondering if I should copper grease the back of the pads or not?

[@Moonfleet41]

Did your brake squeal with the old pads Liam?.. if so, then use some and it'll stop it.. if not, then no need to bother mate. ! My bandit brakes squealed for a pastime.!

[@liamjones4843]

Delboy's Garage now that you mention it, the front did squeal a bit, I always thought it was the pads squeezing against the disc, I thought that perhaps the pads were dirty?

[@aditya78]

Another brilliant video. Thanks for sharing. I've been meaning to ask... do the sintered brake pads lead to faster wear and tear of the brake rotors?

[@Moonfleet41]

Yes they do my friend, most definitely, you can't change the laws of physics, and as the sintered pads have more physical grade against the disc, they will wear it more quickly... but in defence of that, with some intelligent use of your brakes, you will brake for less duration which then reduces the time that they are rubbing on the disc so overall the increase in disc wear is marginal... and in my personal view, it's a fair trade off for better, and more effective, braking.

[@craigsmallwood1706]

Regarding my post yesterday. I have been looking at lithium grease, none I have looked at seems to be what I want or need can you please advise the make you use and where I can purchase from, much appreciated.

[@M-DIY]

Love your video man! Your attention to details is just just amazing! I also do my DIY jobs just like you! Till date I haven't taken MTB and motorcycle to any mechanic, because they charge a bit and the job they do is just laughable, they fix one thing and create more problems due to carelessness, at least in my nation. They bang the crap outta every component while fixing it.

[@michaelcaton9358]

Why did you change those old pads. they looked perfect?

[@Moonfleet41]

Upgrading to EBC Copper Sintered Pads, which have more abrasion on the disc, causing more drag, therefore better braking, and using EBC discs with them, as they are harder and resist the wear created by the improved abrasion.....

[@gregorbabic8148]

Hi Del, thanks for this tutorial, quality video!!! Just changed the pads on my speed triple but I think will need to take down the calliper again and do it properly like you showed on here. Just a quick one, is normal that the disk is much hotter after replacing the pads? Is not glowing hot but hot enough so you can't touch it...thanks.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hey Gregor.. Thanks for your kind comments, with your rear caliper, the disc should never be hot if you haven't used it.. that indicates that its binding and needs a clean up to free off the pistons.... but if you ride the bike normally, and use the brake as intended then it will get hot.. Best test is to go for a short ride, no more then a few miles, but in that time, dont touch the back brake... then when you get back, feel it to see if its hot.. if it is, then thats proof its binding and you must deal with it.. Sometimes fitting new pads can lead to this because they are thicker than the old worn out ones.. which means pushing the pistons back in further then before.. and if there is any brake dust or road dirt on those pistons, then when you push them back in that dirt will jam up on the seals and cause the caliper to bind.....follow like it says in the video, pump them out a bit then clean them all off... should be fine afterwards.. Hope that helps

[@mklodginski]

Can any Triumph folks out there speak to the wear on the rear wheel spacers in this video? Mine too has some rings on the chain side spacer and wondering what the acceptable tolerance is there.

[@daiman56]

Great "How to" video as always. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills. I always bookmark and save your service videos.

[@michaelcomerford5509]

Hello Dell is it possible to improve the front brakes on a 2017 triumph bobber . Thanks Mike

[@thomashawkins2395]

Mr love your videos I’ve got a bit of a problem I can’t get my rear break light off any ideas anyone ?

[@IronSlimPA]

Top content my friend. I've really enjoyed these Triumph vids and the time you put into production shines through. Well done!

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks Scott. much appreciated buddy.

[@johnbyrnes3790]

So I did my rear brake pads exactly like you said, they still feel a little squishy, what should I do next?

[@Moonfleet41]

If they're 'squishy', then you obviously still have air in the system, perhaps trapped in the caliper, try bleeding them through again and, perhaps, depress the lever overnight which can firm up the system a great deal by eliminating any micro-bubbles... also, when you bleed don't open the bleed valve any more than 1/8-1/4 turn or you will drag air in to it as you bleed. It's just practice mate, good luck with it.

[@cxaznxl]

Hey Del, I was changing my brakes and when trying to pump the pistons out to red rubber grease them, I must have pumped too much and the front piston fell out (and as it fell out there was some spillage, im guessing brake fluid). I shoved the piston back in, put the brakes on and mounted everything fully back on the rear brake, but now when I press the rear brake it isn't stopping. It kind of sounds like it's pumping air. Do you think I put a huge amount of air in the brake lines and bleeding them will solve my problem? Looking to hear back, thanks.

[@deanchild9848]

Another great video Del, I know this is a bit of a newbie question but never had ABS brakes before, I take it this procedure will work on a ABS caliper as well I have a MT-07 Tracer? Ofc no issue with the Harley sportsteryou taught me everything on servicing that with your past video's thank you

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Dean.. Yeah, this will work just fine for your Tracer.. do the same things and you'll make a great job of it..! good luck buddy.. and thanks for your feedback.!

[@joe20665]

Do you have a video on rebuilding a calipers or putting new pistons in ?

[@Moonfleet41]

Search 'Delboy's Garage Brake Caliper Re-Build' , or look in the playlists my friend...

[@joe20665]

Moonfleet41 thank you love the channel has gave me confidence to dig deeper with my bike in fixing and replacing parts

[@spencerrobertson5448]

What brand of white lithium greases and red rubber greases do you prefer ?

[@dntower85]

Were the pads the EBC Sintered (HH Type)?, I really want to upgrade the breaks on my T100, and I waiting to see how much improvement you get from your upgrade.

[@Moonfleet41]

No need to wait buddy, have been using them for years, I can tell you, they are the right move,... the copper sintered material is more aggressive, presents more abrasion to the disc surface, therefore increased drag... the cost is a little more wear to the discs, but that is a price you have to consider for improved braking... but if you have the money, and can upgrade to EBC discs as well, then they are harder steel and will resist that wear being more resiliant, so an all round better solution, and why I'm doing mine!

[@sergeantsodom6969]

How do, I’ve been taking my 2020 ninja 1000 to bits lately, and am horrified with the amount of incredibly corroded nuts and bolts, having barely ridden the bloody thing its very frustrating- and having to hand polish each nut/bolt manually- and acf coat them but doesnt seem to do much. Long story short is there a ‘go-to’ place to get stainless bolts that are specific to bikes/this purpose? Or a way to determine which bolt sizes will work (cant find it in the manual) Ta

[@Moonfleet41]

hey buddy.. have a look up online for some "Pro-Bolt" kits.. they make ready to install "swap over kits" of engine and cycle part fasteners, and for pretty much all bikes, and not only in stainless but also colour anodised to match your bike too... im sure there are kits for your Kawasaki.!

[@sergeantsodom6969]

@@Moonfleet41 This is why you’re the best mate- really appreciate it!

[@danielb1563]

I am so glad I have found your videos. They are giving me such confidence to 'have a go'. However, and I sincerely promise I am not taking the p... But does it matter if the cleaning solution you use is bio or non-bio. Would the 'bio' bit damage anything like the rubbers? Genuine question I promise!! Thanks.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Daniel, Thanks for oyur kind words, im glad the videos have been helping you out... The rubbers in your braking system are pretty robust mate.. think of the the toxic poisons on the roads that coat them up every day.. road salt, oil and fuel residue, antifreeze residue, in fact any liquid that vehicles use can end up on the roads.. so no, dish soap is safe for the plates and cup you eat your food from.. so it'll be fine to clean your brakes with...

[@garylal2088]

Don't you cater for the classic bonnevile? I have several Triumph's which carry disk brakes, & to put it nicely I would like to remove that junk of iron which serves as a caliper & forever seizing master cylinder, so when you say upgrade, I understand it to be a lighter/morden alloy caliper & an effective slave cylinder a complete swap job. Compranda!

[@Smalick007]

Hi, do you video instruction on how to relocate rear disc brake caliper using Motone bracket. thanks in advance

[@PopkosCZ]

Hi Del, i have a strange question. Before winter, we did a front brakes rebuild, pistons out, clean everything, lubed pistons with proper grease which comes with new seals, and after that the bike braked like a charm, but now after 5 months garage winter pause i cleaned the bike and used standard brake cleaner just to wipe the brake discs. The bike now brakes very badly.. dont know what to do, if just try to get off the calipers and try to pump out the pistons a little bit and push them back a few times, or just clean the caliper.. but it´s only my idea, so hope, you have some advice for this case. Thank you very much.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi there.. if your bike has been laid up for 5 long months.. then the seals may have got damp and jammed up a bit, firstly just try washing the whole brake ares with lots of hot soapy water and rinse it out with a running hose pipe, then take it for a ride and use the brakes a lot.. its just possible they will return back to normal and be fine... do that first, and see how it goes..!

[@tonyjeffery3]

Great job Del, will deffo have to do this with mine,,,, have had binding issue following the freeze ur nutz ride obviously salt. What's you opinion on remounting above ? Take care both.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Tony... i think you mean the rear caliper.. there is a top mount for it... i think you need another brake hose to reach, not sure, and if you get your bike muddy and covered in road grime, then i guess it could help... but the dirt will still stick to it day to day which ever way it is..! it wont release you of the cleaning duties buddy..lol

[@Tiz147]

I've just replaced the rubber booties on my rear caliper as they were about twice the size of the new ones. There's plenty of people saying copperslip swells the rubber? Is this something you've come across?

[@Moonfleet41]

No buddy, not psecifically with copperslip, rubber swells in the presence of most chemicals, petrol on fuel tap seals, the gasket in your derby cover, sump plug o-rings, they all become soft and puff up, but will shrink back again when they dry out... use rubber lube inside as this doesn't contain the same chemicals as oil...

[@reeno91]

In previous videos you had used some copper slip on the outer side of the brake pads to prevent squealing, reduce vibrations. Why have you left the pads clean this time? Thanks for reply.

[@Moonfleet41]

Solid mounted calipers tend to be the only type that squeal, and even then only on big discs at the front... the sliding mount on this caliper absorbs the vibration and thus the disc doesn't 'sing' as those vibes are transmitted across... also a small thick rear disc doesn't suffer from vibration either.. so no need on this bike,...

[@silviolucoveic294]

Thank you, for another video, excellent explanation, I liked it very much, congratulations.

[@Moonfleet41]

You're very welcome!

[@paulclark1227]

Is that a 160 rear tyre?

[@Moonfleet41]

No Paul, its a 180 tyre, in a 5" wide rim.!

[@robd2781]

Thanks, your superb video just saved my rear caliper! …now for the front two..😀

[@Moonfleet41]

Ah thank you for your kind words and your donation, very kind of you... good luck with the front!

[@craigsmallwood1706]

Can it be lithium grease or does it have to be white lithium grease, just been looking and have found a tin of silverhook lithium grease, is this ok. thanks.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi buddy, I don't think it's critical, I use white as it's what I have, all lithium grease is the same base compound, but the white is provided by the addition of zinc-oxide and it's believed to only be there to show where the grease has been applied and if it gets contaminated so needs replacing... but don't over think it mate, some grease is better than no grease.

[@fordpumamany]

Hi Del,do you recommend to grease the back of the brake pad with copper grease? ty.

[@Moonfleet41]

Does your bike have thin steel shims that fit between the pistons and the pads ? if so then NO... even then, do your brakes squeal when you apply them?.. if not, then NO, but if you have a problem with squealing brakes, then a little anti seize paste applied to the back of the pads SPARINGLY.. can reduce or even stop the squealing all together.. For what its worth buddy, its not "grease".. thats a name it seems to have gained somehow.. but its not for lubrication of any kind.. its a non ferrous paste to be applied between metal surfaces to stop them corroding.... its actually no good as a lubricant, it can cause wear to rubbing parts. so only use it as an "anti seize" compound, never as a lubricant.. its simply a misnomer that people call it copper grease..! Hope that helps.. good luck.. Del.

[@SebastianD1977]

do not trust swingarm marks on triumph thunderbird 1600 unless you want to have your belt eaten

[@Moonfleet41]

So i have heard ! I never trust the stampings on any swing arm.. always measure the axle alignment by hand.

[@nigelbush7255]

Del I have so much to catch up on as usual great tips I learn something new with every video thank you so much 😊

[@Moonfleet41]

Very welcome Nigel.. glad to help.

[@MotoMirius]

What can I say? Your content and presentation just get better all the time. I'm running a similar set of jobs to you at the moment as I have a new bike to sort - so I'm enjoying the little details.

[@Moonfleet41]

A new bike to sort... Do tell..!?

[@MotoMirius]

Moonfleet41 I'm going back in time as starting in some of your old videos. Well that's what it feels like. I've got a new commuter bike - a 650 Bandit S

[@christophershirley1303]

Great timing for me...got the VFR750 and the ZZR600 to do! Did I spot a "Heartbreak Ridge" quote hidden in there Del (29:29) ;-)

[@Moonfleet41]

Heartbreak Ridge, no mate, that's British Army, circa 1983 !

[@christophershirley1303]

Moonfleet41 ha ha in that case even more respect..!👍

[@peterford9369]

Was watching ur vid thinking i wish i had a setup like that. I just bought a 2005 Bonnie with carbs, and to my surprise, no center stand, no spool holes. I've always done my own repairs, but every bike I've had, has had a center stand. I see the frame jack u have, but its so narrow, the frame, I get a little iffy. I do for sure need a chain, so gotta make up me mind. I'm so glad Triumph used stainless spokes. My old CB 750 Honda didn't. Always looked dull. You do it right,for sure. Thanks.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Peter, I know what you mean mate, it can be frustrating when there's no way to stand your bike upright... I generally tend to throw a little table jack beneath the frame, but it's not ideal and nor is it very secure... but here's a couple of links that may interest you from TEC Bike Parts, first is some bobbins that fit through your rear wheel axle, it's extremely simple to fit, takes literally less than 60 seconds to slap it through the axle and screw the ends on, and then you can lift the back of the bike with a paddock stand,... here's a link: www.tecbikeparts.com/product/paddock-stand-bobbins-axle-adaptor-bobbins-kit-to-fit-thruxton-scrambler-900cc-up-to-2016-aircooled-models/ (we have a video which incorporates this upgrade if you need it). And also here is the general page as some aftermarket centre stands, as many of the early Triwww.tecbikeparts.com/products/shop-parts/triumph-aircooled/stands-triumph-aircooled/ummphs cam e with the mounting but no stand... maybe they will help you too...!

[@peterford9369]

@@Moonfleet41 Thanks, i see. It's a threaded rod that goes through the axle and attaches to the spools,bobbins? I'm wondering if the bolt that comes with the bobbins would be sufficient. I just received a set I ordered with 8mm bolt? You have two people there in UK that have factory stands. But they want 200 dollars plus 100 shipping. If they were still making them or just had some in stock, I could buy it locally for 145 bucks. That's the center stand. I love this bike, but by the time I'm done I could have paid enough to let the service center work on it. Haha. I'll check the sites u sent. Thanks again Del.

[@dadodasler9730]

heyo del! is there any harm in aligning the wheel with the bike on the ground and the axle slightly tight just to keep everything in place?

[@Moonfleet41]

No mate , you need the axle loose to allow the bottom of the forks to move independently of each other so they can re-align ! Otherwise they will resist the straightening force... you are basically using the bottom yoke as a parallel guide so everything except the top yoke pinch bolts must be loosened off !

[@BloomAndy]

Good video. Quick question.... Any of you guys know the front caliper mounting bracket torque setting for a 2019 street twin? It's the newer brembo brake caliper. Ta.

[@Moonfleet41]

I don't know that one mate, it's a manual listing you can just look up, but im guessing you don;t have a manual ! you can download a torque list from some of the Triumph forums, "Triumph Rat" is very good, a great generous community all more then happy to help, check 'em out, im sure what you need will be on there mate.

[@BloomAndy]

@@Moonfleet41 Thanks for responding. Did a bit of digging around, got conflicting information so bought a Haynes manual. Best thing in the end. Keep it shiny side up. 🤘🏻🇬🇧

[@bobbybackmarker9665]

Heya Del. Is white lithium grease ok for rubber? Also, I've used copper slip on brake pistons when I ran out of red rubber grease mid rebuild but was later advised it might react with the rubber seals. Re-cleaned the whole bloody lot a couple of days later! I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on it mate.

[@stevenv1992]

I initially thought the same about the lithium, but, the stuff he used was also used on the DID rubber chain link seals - in this case should be safe on brake rubber. You were right to remove the copper slip from brake pistons - stick with red rubber grease there, the copper slip can expand the rubber.

[@Moonfleet41]

Copperslip does not corrode the rubber piston seals.. there are many armchair experts out there who will make up all kinds of rubbish based on half read information... truth is, not all rubber is the same, obviously, and the piston seals are designed to be resilient to extreme heat, all kinds of chemicals, and even acid...anything that would get onto your caliper... but a rubber children's party balloon will break if you sneaze on it... so its what kind of rubber you're talking about... The Lithium grease is great for the piston sides, its designed to coat up the chain 'O' rings, and they get hot all the time.... so that's the right answer buddy.. (until another keyboard expert comes along and wants to split hairs..lol)

[@bobbybackmarker9665]

Cheers for the detailed reply Del.

[@danielb1563]

HI, Great video as ever. I have been refurbishing my calipers (2002 Speed Triple) and it is you that has given me the confidence to do so. Just seeking your opinion, I used red rubber grease on my hanger sliders, as I thought it may be better on those rubber socks...or is white lithium grease (or copper grease) better...? Does it matter? Also, I used brake fluid on the new seals and pistons to "lube" them in, rather than red rubber grease - again...does it matter? Many thanks!!

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi mate, fundamentally red rubber grease is a silicone based lubricant, designed purely to lubricate the interface between rubber and metal (or other rubber if it needs to)... and yet the pin sliders for your caliper is actually a metal to metal interface that just happens to have a rubber boot over it to keep the weather out, so the rubber grease won't do a brilliant job of staying put in between the metal pin and bore, even though it protects the rubber, best thing to use is white lithium grease... it's tough, sticky and heat resistant and it'll stay put, and also it won't hurt the rubber at all... (it's also used on chains with o-rings when they're first assembled at the factory)... never use an anti-seize compound, such as copper slip, to lubricate anything, it's technically not lubricant mate. It's there to prevent corrosion, among other things... and using it on a sliding pin that moves in and out constantly can actually lead to accelerated wear, because the copper particles in the compund will eventually wear in to it, even though they are soft.

[@momentsoftriumph1050]

@@Moonfleet41 bless you moonfleet for a dedicated reply. I'll disassemble and redo. Thank you!

[@irgendwieanders1]

I wonder, have you ever build a fully custom Bike-Exhaust???

[@Moonfleet41]

No, but i have modified many!

[@hoomannili]

Hi Delboy, love your work - very British style. Can you please comment on 1. The difference between brake pads that have one piece compared to those with multiple padlets with slots between them. 2. Should the backing plate of OEM pads be reused with aftermarket pads like EBC?. Thanks for your time.

[@Dave-in-France]

Hi Del, mate your 'productions' just seem to get better and better! Quality explanations, advice and tips, close-up photography of the bits in question - it's all just really great. VERY useful point about checking the caliper carrier and how well it slides and the implications if it doesn't. When are we going to see Delboys garage on the telly - soon I hope for your sake. PS I really like the torque settings coming up on the screen !!!!!!

[@paulclark1227]

What do you call the headers ( what do I search for, for the two into one pipes?) Thanx

[@Moonfleet41]

This is the exhaust mate... Right Here:- www.tecbikeparts.com/product/tec-2-1-tracker-full-stainless-exhaust-system-for-triumph/

[@stevenv1992]

The chain slack (owners manual) specified takes into account the rider/compression: mine measured 50 mm (limits 45 - 55 mm). My MOT centre made my chain slack an advisory!

[@irvine40]

didn't see you clean the underside of the Pistons (the side closest to the calliper body)

[@Moonfleet41]

7:07 ..!

[@B06Tang]

Is that the Sun rear sprocket +1 rear tooth that you put on the bike? Also, was the chain a perfect fit out of the box or did you have to add remove any links to make it fit?

[@Moonfleet41]

Standard sprockets on the bike, factory gearing... and yes the chain fits out of the box because its the right chain for the bike.. order the right one, and they're send you the one that fits buddy.!

[@B06Tang]

Awesome! Thanks for responding back so quickly

[@anthonyarmstrong9508]

Good day sir my triumph bonneville 800 rear brake keep locking up after using the brake a couple of times that I have to open the bleed valve for the brake to let go loose. What causes that problem sir?

[@Moonfleet41]

If the bleed valve relieves the situation, it's more likely the master cylinder is not returning, or alternatively, you have excessive water content in the fluid, which will expand with heat where as fresh brake fluid won't... try flushing it through with fresh brake fluid and see if that cures.

[@anthonyarmstrong9508]

@@Moonfleet41 thank you for sharing your wisdom sir, I will try it and see. 😊

[@Ricardo533155]

Any plans to relocate the calliper north Del? Mine gets full of road crud.

[@Moonfleet41]

No buddy, its fine in the correct position, they get just as dirty on top mate..!

[@petefroud5308]

{p} Great video Del . It so pays off using copper slip on threads , saves a lot of heartache . Cheers Pete.

[@dylanjohnhoey]

Very thorough. Thanks so much.

[@DaveOasist]

Brilliant video mate, I need to check the rear caliper on my 92 Triumph trophy 900 as 1 pad (closest to the piston) has worn more than the other and the disc is rusty

[@beebeer]

Is there any need to replace brake pads even if they're not worn, due to age?

[@Moonfleet41]

Extreme age maybe if they have sat there for 10yrs, then the damp can affect them long term, they don't cost much, so maybe just stick some new ones in!

[@joshuarose2509]

A garage told me to go for a ride then well my chain is still hot then put chain lube on it

[@Moonfleet41]

Yes correct, always lube your chain when it is hot, this dries the carrier spirit away faster, and when the chain is hot, the links are expanded so the lube runs in better..!

[@cameronfowler8627]

Thanks for this video! Life saver

[@croonersteve]

dishwashing soap is approx 80% salt , i worked in a chemical factory and we made that kind of stuff, hence why its so bad for your hands

[@iritantNL]

it is a single side piston caliper it is inevitible that one side touches the disc first..

[@Moonfleet41]

and the freer the slide is, the less time between..!

[@bufftankington7349]

Del I know this is an old video but just thought I'd ask just the same. I understand not having silicone on the pistons but what about siliconegrease as a replacement for coppergrease or lithiumgrease on the slidebars ? I know you recommended lithium or coppergrease, but I' heard about people using silicone on sliderbars without issue

[@Moonfleet41]

As long as its a heat resistant lubricant, one that will not melt with brake heat and flow out, then it will work Stefan.

[@bufftankington7349]

@@Moonfleet41 Ahh gotcha, thanks del ! I found one that's supposed to handle up to 400 Celsius which should be more than enough

[@bufftankington7349]

@@Moonfleet41 By the way, I really appreciate what you do, you've helped me alot with doing own maintenance so thank you

[@StreetBob-tn1ed]

del been watching one of your vids on sportster battrey saved me 60 notes at the end u said u can get del boys garage t shirts how

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Stephen, no swag at the moment, but we are working on setting up a merchandise link soon... glad we could save you a few quid mate.

[@kevinwhyte1024]

Worth mentioning that you should always remove the master cylinder cover before pushing the pistons back.

[@Moonfleet41]

Not necessary buddy.. the fluid will have dropped as you pump the pistons out.. and will simply flow back up when you push them on.. your master cylinder has an air hole to allow for that movement...! You can if you wish, but it makes no difference as you saw here..! (bit of an old wives tale buddy)..

[@Hui9697]

Agreed 100%, the problem is usually where the fluid has been topped up as the pads have worn down over time by well meaning service rs, then, new pads are fitted and there is no room for the extra fluid when the pistons are pushed back. Removing the cap allows some fluid to be removed. General info Del, I know 'you' know.

[@Moonfleet41]

I know.. another annoying old wives tale.. "the need to top up fluid".... if it had a full reservoir when it had new pads, then that is a quantity it will always need and no more... if its low, its because ther pads a re low....it doesn't leak, or evaporate..lol in fact, its best to NEVER take the lid off as brake fluid is so horribly hydroscopic........ Ill cover that in the fluid change video for sure..

[@d.fresh.750]

(P)Excellent how-to! I'm not sure there's anything I would do I my bike, that you don't have a video for. I'll definitely be referencing many of them in the future!

[@kenrides]

The tensioners on the bonnies are indeed fantastic bits. You can trust them to be within a couple mil accuracy.

[@mattedouard6759]

Hello, thank you for the demonstration, I am French and I use the translation. can you tell me what is the product you use to clean the pistons? thank you