New Plastic Leviathan Dreadnought!

This video shows the new Plastic Leviathan Dreadnought from Games Workshop. It also shows how to paint it using Imperial Fist Contrast paint and oil paint.
If you enjoyed the video please subscribe! There will be lots more videos to come.
I have a website and a Patreon with hundreds of videos that provide guides for painting models up to a competition standard.
www.RichardGrayCreations.com
www.patreon.com/RichardGray
elementgames.co.uk/?d=10373
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Yriel Yellow, Sotek Green, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Imperial Fist (Contrast), Rhinox Hide, Abaddon Black
Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Black,Dark Blue Pale
Winsor and Newton: Burnt Sienna (series 1 oil paint), Black, Sansodoor mineral spirit
Vallejo: Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Exhaust Manifold, Chrome
P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
Abteilung 502: Desert and Sand Pigment set
Micro Set

[@lonelycrab1382]

I can't imagine someone's arrogance telling Richard Gray they don't know what glazing is

[@TheScalyArab]

Do you mean that you consider it arrogant if a person says to Richard that they themselves don't know what glazing is? Or that a person told Richard that they think Richard doesn't know what glazing is? Confused.

[@lonelycrab1382]

@@TheScalyArab why would it be arrogant to say I don't know what glazing is?

[@zazen69]

@@TheScalyArab Apparently someone implied that Richard doesn't know what a glaze is. I'd like to see their work lol.

[@belzaboul]

I think it's okay to admit to Richard Gray that they don't know what is glazing

[@ObjectiveMedia]

@@lonelycrab1382 that’s literally what you said in your comment lol

[@WardenOfTerra]

To say that you only spent 5 hours on this, the quality is insane. The speed at which you paint at has increased massively over the past few years. I've noticed that when a person concentrates on quality over speed first, the speed comes naturally later on due to having a method and style. Yours is one of the best styles because it's simple, yet the results require you to actually know what you're doing. Amazing work Richard.

[@soviet9366]

Hi Richard. Many thanks for doing these amazing public videos.

[@tombrand236]

This is bloody amazing. Seriously I know you said it was ‘quick’ but the look is so good. The weathering on it is fantastic. Thanks for creating such brilliant videos Richard. They’re astoundingly good.

[@NotDocStupid]

His brush control is crazy good, I've tried his method and it's not easy, but gives good results. He def makes it look easier but the technique is def something to learn.

[@EwanMacNeilage]

I love your channel Richard. You go to huge lengths of explanation in these massive hour long painting videos showing off these elite level techniques…and then sign off most sentences with “but I don’t care you can do what you like”

[@5chr4pn3ll]

Wow, when that yellow goes on.

[@gallusdomesticuskfptechpriest]

highlighting the scratches/chipping produces such a cool effect

[@meaningreen9460]

Looking forward to this. Really liking the style of painting.

[@saryonn]

Absolutely amazing Richard!

[@stevenkelley9091]

Idk what I like more, the quality of painting tutorial or Richard nerdily laughing about the different varieties of Vallejo pale blue greys

[@nexusdog]

Thank you for another great vid, Richard, your work is amazing

[@nathanploeg310]

I absolutely love watching (listening mostly) your videos. Very nice to see your process

[@kwak_rc9792]

Absolutely amazing work. This is without doubt my favourite painting video on KZbin

[@Rokemikal]

love all your videos really looking forward to see how you approach other legions, especially space wolves. thanks for your hard work.

[@ProrokLebioda]

I always liked look of Levi Dread. Didn''t want to hassle with resin one (and it was even more expensive than current plastic). I might pick one up and paint for fun. Will wait for ranged options release to decide which one I want. I really like your painting process, especially all the little tidbits you mention about why you do things certain way!

[@paintbusch]

UUUUUUh baby this beast looks amazing Richard!

[@nicholastrevino6845]

looks so good

[@MrPieroch]

The Emperor Gray strikes again ! Well done! Cheers from Belgium.

[@Zuckergast]

Damn, that looks so good! 🤩 I wanna get one of these for my Imperial Fists too!

[@Chu466]

I couldn't have asked for a better tutorial, thanks dude

[@Roden7100]

Your works so incredible! Looks like art )

[@Bonesnack]

I had the same issue with the Vallejo bottles snapping shut and spraying droplets all around. To prevent them from getting on my hands I got into the habit of closing them with a piece of kitchen tissue. I always have multiples of them lying around anyway. Great video btw, cheers!

[@prickswithstix1113]

Thank you!!!

[@robmoss3501]

Awesome

[@luizaurio]

I`ve drastically reduced my white speckling using white ink instead of regular paint, specifically the liquitex white ink

[@Tonnolin]

Cant wait to see how you do all the legions

[@jurriaandejongh8677]

Fething hells... This is beyond glorious!

[@Erikjust]

Looking forward to seeing you do Thousand Sons it will be interesting to see how you will do the metalic red to a display standard.

[@marcna4582]

awesome

[@mantradox]

would be nice to see a painting of Sons of Horus space marine (maybe a jump pack one?) suitable for army painting 🙂

[@Zolerous]

The pigments were Abteilung (Ab-tei-lung) they also make a range of oil paints that are more suited for mini painting than the W&N. You should give them a try Richard, they are fantastic.

[@Wijkert]

3:48 for people that are wandering how to prevent speckling as much as possible. Either thin the paint more or increase the pressure on your compressor (or both).

[@gamedude412]

There also dry retarder or using a white ink works well too I swapped to white ink over Tamiya white. Tho I may try lacquer Tamiya white soon

[@Wijkert]

@@gamedude412 I too use mainly white ink. Little fragile, but love that stuff. My original comment was mainly focused on what people can try irrelevant of the kind of paint they want to use.

[@jimmoriarty5107]

Incredible as always dude. Its always amusing to me to hear "This took me 6 hours" as too long. I ended up painting in the 'Eavy Metal style as I progressed with painting and 6 hours just about got 2 legplates on a Stormsurge done for me today. I'm really enjoying these videos because its forcing me to try out styles like this which can be achieved much quicker for a quality result. I'm hoping once World Eaters get a full release I can put some of the stuff i've learned from you here and from other painters such as Andy Wardle to actually finally finish an army.

[@zazen69]

So you are painting like 3 layers of edge highlights? I like the 'Eavy Metal style too, just wondering how you are going about it.

[@jimmoriarty5107]

@@zazen69 Usually i'll start by basecoating, zenithal and shadow with the airbrush, followed by recess shades and glazed extra shadows where needed. Followed by a chunky edge highlight the same colour as the zenithal airbrush highlight, then a finer edge highlight. After that i'll fine edge highlight all upward facing edges, as well as dot the corners of where darker edges meet if needed. Finally i'll add a dot highlight to the corners where the upward facing edges are. Its very generic and time consuming but it works for everything and ive got it down to be extremely neat at this point to where i can get a box art finish pretty reliably. The downside is it has taken me 12 hours to paint 1 Aeldari Guardian before. It's just not workable for an army.

[@zazen69]

@@jimmoriarty5107 Nice, that's definitely a lot of work, but the finished look is awesome.

[@range8533]

legend of painter you be

[@Thinkworldwild]

Fantastic tutorial Richard. Can we have Sons of Horus next please 😉? I would like to see as well how you paint a vehicle? Those tutorials will be a great guide for painting an entire army. thanks!

[@BSJDynasty]

Abteilung is pronounced "Up-tie-loong", it basically means "department" in germany but in this context it probably means division or bridage

[@jensskautrup640]

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

[@rodrigomarquesruiz9836]

that s amazing!!! thx for the video, can be the posibility to get a similar video but how to paint ultramarines?? thx so much

[@M0U53B41T]

If you have not done already, is there any chance you can show how you prime? It's just looking so very matte and well done! I find my primer coats aren't always as flat as I'd like.

[@krakenminiaturepainting7846]

absolutely amazing as always. Can I ask, how would you approach the weather with a world eater dread? so like the streaking etc

[@Wijkert]

23:24 the amount of times you need to look at the bottle of Sansodor to remember the name Rich...😂 Maybe this will help: sans (without) odor (smell).

[@danford5840]

Do you know if the new IF contrast will work with purple priming? I usually do purple and white/light grey for the priming, the Vallejo paint works fine with that.

[@SteamKinkage617638]

What is the green stuff you are using to mask parts?

[@komma8203]

The grill thing in front of the dreads cheast is a vocalizer so the almost dead guy inside can talk

[@adamgregory4092]

I've read that contrast paints behave similar to acrylic inks when used through an airbrush (transparent but highly pigmented). What's the difference between using the new Imperial Fist contrast paint and an acrylic ink like Vallejo Game Ink or an artist brand acrylic ink like Liquitex or Daler-Rowney?

[@Wijkert]

22:23 Just in case you guys and gals are wandering, Burnt Sienna is usually made out of PR101 (iron oxide a.k.a. rust). Artist brands are better at naming their paints compared to hobby brands, but they still vary. With any artist paints look for the pigment(s) used. It should be written on the tube and the info should also be available on the manufacturers website. Colors should be close enough when the same pigment is used. Not exactly the same though and this doesn't hold up for all pigments (e.g. PV19), but for most it does. Ps for some reason I own 3 tubes of PR101. All slight different tints. Funnily enough I actually like the Winsor and Newton Winton version the most; not because of it's properties (it is a student line after all) but for its color.

[@JamesThompson-1]

Hi Richard - contemplating an IF army, and these vids are a godsend. Really interested to understand why (and it may just be my perception) the tone of this model vs the terminators in another recent one looks quite different, despite ostensibly being the same contrast paint over the same zenithal technique. Could be lighting or any other number of factors I suppose, but interested to hear what you think. It seems to me that the yellow here is a fair bit warmer, but could just be my (poor) eyesight!

[@TheMiniatureStudio]

Great video - thanks for sharing! Quick question, did you thin the Imperial Fist Contrast paint or did it go into the air brush without thinning?

[@greenx2040]

"Someone was telling me that I need to understand what a glaze is..." 🤣 Oh internet...

[@adamtyson3177]

Fantastic! I've found your tutorials on painting Imperial Fists hugely helpful. I do have one question though and apologies if you've answered it already. When you were pre-shading the Mournfang Brown/white mix what ratio did you use roughly?

[@ramen6124]

utterly amazing model, do you thin your contrast at all or is it just straight out of the pot?

[@Timthesorcer3r]

Do you have any videos or content around how you handle miniature photography? I'm trying to get to grips with a new DSLR and have yet to achieve the kind of results you consistently show with your own work. Thanks!

[@colinboon6612]

Hi Richard, thank you for another great video. Just a matter of curiosity, do you never use a zenithal highlight and if not, then why?

[@NateVHVT]

So I've tried using this and my tone in some areas is shifting into olive/green. Anyone got any ideas as to how/ why this is happening?

[@tylonblas2581]

Tried to find a picture or clip of the video where you show the back of the dread, but I can't find one. Any chance? lol :)

[@christophervonwilczur7052]

Do you thin your Imperial Fist yellow at all when airbrushing?

[@lu3tz]

Personally I don't thin contrast paints, though I haven't sprayed Imperial Fist Yellow specifically.

[@Michael-wn3rh]

Hey Richard Gray! If I may ask a question: in this tutorial, you mention going back in with Yriel Yellow for highlights BEFORE tranfers/the oil wash, but I believe you did the opposite with your HH ImpFists infantry tutorials (gloss, transfers, oil, THEN go back in with Yriel). Do you do inf/vehicles differently, or - as this is a latter tutorial compared to your original ImpFist one(s) - was this a process change?

[@SilencerOne]

Isn't X20A an alcohol based thinner ? Wouldn't that even work with Citadel paints that are water based ?

[@demonrich]

X20A is an Acrylic thinner and is water soluble. It even says it on the bottle. You might be thinking of X20

[@itsmylife2624]

BIG LAD

[@uafthetall9150]

thats a funny iron warrior

[@gamedude412]

Get black metallic finger print on airbrushed yellow Watches a leviathan dreadnought become an flyer lol

[@themescaline9207]

09:35 Jesus, what is that?? Is that a vanta black color?

[@demonrich]

Similar sort of thing

[@ramza813]

i spilled semen on the floor when that first coat of Imperial Fist went on. This is amazing.

[@schemesof40k]

The lore says that heavy armored plates are plastic (PLASTIC STEEL)! So, what causes all the rust steaks?

[@demonrich]

The rule of cool

[@schemesof40k]

@@demonrich {?}

[@erichhartmann8755]

Put on gloves !