The Best Bed Adhesion for 3D Printers

Hint: It's Ultrabase with Nanopolymer because of superior detachment and durability. But don't take my world for it. Watch the video where I test a bunch of combinations of print materials on different print surfaces with different adhesives.
Here is the link to $5 samples of Nanopolymer: visionminer.com/products/nano...
Here is Tom's interview with Dr. Adrian Boyer: • How he started the wor...

[@balisongsingin2498]

Something that greatly impacts how a build is sticking to the plate is how you have the printer calibrated as well, the nozzles distance from the bed, temperatures, etc. I currently have my printer set up, so the nozzle is very close to the bed and I'm having issues with the prince being too difficult to remove from the bed. I'm sure some slight adjustments might yield some dramatically different results

[@jerrychan1471]

Super-informative, thanks for all the work you put into making this video!

[@robno213]

Thanks for this video! It came at the perfect time for me and solved an issue I was having with one of my printers.

[@othmanalghafri9821]

I missed you man. Thanks for sharing your experience with this frustrating issue.

[@stevestefan2820]

As always great video/tests. and yes would like the nano polymer free stuff. Stef

[@alessandrobernet574]

I did some tests too with nylon.The visionminer Nanopolymer starts to beat the glue stick at a bed temp of minimum 120°C. I used a powdercoated springsteelsheet from thekkiinngg on my prusa mk3s with two layers of nanopolymer and it adhere to the bed just fine as i was printing a box out of nylon that was nearly the size of the bed. However i had to clamp down the springsteelsheet because otherwise it came loose. I also printed it with a draft shield to prevent warping because one half of the box was 30mm high and it really helps to keep your upper layers warm. So although it is possible to print nylon without a heated chamber its a pain and i would only print small parts like gears without a heated chamber.

[@craktsupermoto]

This is some great info. Thank you sir!

[@zommy5re77]

the clone anycubic ultrabases are known to lose their features overtime, however i have a genuine and clean it thoroughly, and that has lasted since i got it about 1 year ago, so the anycubic ones are great, the clones are hit-or-miss. Also, the powder coated pei solution prusa invented is awesome for nylons, and anythng except certain PLA's. Best 'cheap' solution for Nylon is using glass and a painted on mixture of 50% water 50% PVA

[@JoakimGulbrandsen]

Also, amazing video with a lot of knowledge and history. Loved it!

[@AlexJoneses]

I had the same exact problem with ultrabase, where I would wipe it and it would be orange, of all colors. It was at that point I just said screw it and switched completely over to pei. Then I started printing crazier thermoplastics like pc, pc abs, nylon, etc, where the parts would warp so hard that they could tear any raft or brim up, so now I've tried glue sticks, roughed up pei, dual extrusion, wolfbite glue (which does work very well, maybe too well), and now I'm trying garolite, will see how that goes.

[@liamsmith8518]

GREAT video from you I really love this style of this video, just sticking to the facts no bias no nothing

[@nerys71]

Just an FYI on the magnetic base and the reason it fails Magnets of that thickness do not exist that can hold against the warp force of these plastics The magnet is not what's holding it down at least not the magnetic strength what's holding it down is the surface area of the magnet so the actual surface area of the magnet underneath your print is nowhere near strong enough to hold that print down however when you have a steel plate that warp force is unlikely to be able to bend the steel plate which means in order to separate the magnet from the base it has to lift the entire 235 mm by 235 mm sheet up at the same time However because the magnetic sheet that creality uses is flexible as in nearly cloth-like the plastic warp force does not have to lift the entire sheet all at once it can lift from anywhere and slowly peel the magnet off of the bed to see what I mean by this Take a piece of glass for that bed and tape it to one of your steel plate sheets masking tape on the four corners now place that on the mag bed put a suction cup in the middle of that glass plate and pick it up I don't know what's actually going to happen so be ready for it but I suspect you could probably pick up the printer with that suction cup And if you put that suction cup more toward a corner you can still lift that printer pretty far before it pops that sheet free Now put down that flexible plate and just pick a corner and lift it takes almost no effort to lift it because you're not lifting the entire sheets simultaneously which means you're not gaining the advantage of that entire surface area of magnetic surface you are peeling it off This is why even though it's the best sticky surface you have it sucks because the surface isn't failing The substrate is failing because it's flexible I helped creality design the ender 3 and we fought about that flexible surface and they would not relent it's the one thing they did that I did not want them to do I suspect because they had already manufactured all the flexible sheets and they did not want to throw them away but they suck :-) well they only suck if you print near the edges if you have a large high warp force print smaller stuff which really is what most people print never have a problem

[@aguerr211]

Watching your videos, got me to finally take the jump from an ender5 to a delta+duet. still having some growing pains, but the speed increase....its very noticeable

[@DetlevRackow]

About the FR4: It seems that you did not sand it with a medium-fine sandpaper before usage, it looks very shiny like fresh from the factory. Just give it a sanding with 120-grid sandpaper until it gets dull. Did nobody tell you how to use this? :-O I've been using my 1mm-sheet for 4 months, and it's absolutely fine despite some mishaps. My regular printing temperatures: PLA 65/60, PETG 75/70, ABS 105°C. I could even get a little lower. When the bed is down to 30°C, I can just snap any of these materials off by pushing it with my index finger. No gluestick, ABS gets a bit of Acetone-sauce to prime the bed, though.

[@mikem264]

I noticed that all your prints span the width of the bed and they were failing at the ends. Test you beds for uniform heating. Most heat in the center and radiate outwards. Just a thought.

[@charlesedens9182]

Great coverage of the development and testing of various surfaces. I enjoyed the content. I Want Free Stuff as well! Thanks again

[@diygranite]

Glass or aluminum or steel bed with Zillagrip coating glue allows you to print the most type of plastics and works with a cold bed. Just heat the bed to release. PLA ABS Nylon PETG PP POM PC with one glue coating adhesive

[@MattyPdizzle240]

I would like free stuff! I like your videos a lot, really great to see some down to earth testing and explanations. I just rewatched a couple of your videos for the second time as I am considering going for a two trees sapphire plus and enclosing it to print in polycarbonate. So I’ll be looking forward to your videos on that project in the future!

[@TATTOOMANZ]

Great informative video. Been having issues so a free stuff bottle would be excellent.

[@georgekg5okf178]

Free Stuff is always nice! I bought a sample of the nanopolymer and it works very well!

[@BenEBrady]

What you are calling garolite, isn't. Garolite is a red-brown color and isn't the same as FR4

[@GuppyRook]

Yes, Garolite is wood fibers, and FR4 is glass fibers. I sand mine with 180 grit: left-right, then up-down, then diagonally. Then wipe the surface to get rid of the dust caused by the sanding - I use an alcohol pad, first one side then flip it over and use the other side of the pad. When done wiping look at the yellow on the pad - that's what's not going to be stuck inbto your printed part. I heat my garolite bed to 60C, heat my chamber to 50C, hotend at 245 (pt100 3-wire sensors in all my printers so the same settings work on all). The nylon is peeled off, and feels like you're peeling a gecko off a wall.

[@reasonsvoice8554]

Phenolic sheet In the uk its tufnol Different names in different countries

[@watsoncassius6155]

@Anthony Alfredo definitely, I have been using instaflixxer for since november myself :)

[@rap-id-ralph]

Free stuff ftw! And lovely vid once more man.

[@DKTAz00]

I've been using capton with PLA succesfully for years now. Bought a 200mm roll, and I change the surface maybe once a year. 60c Bed temp. Once its cooled down, it comes off by itself.

[@deuterium8236]

Few thoughts on ABS and polypropylene. Polypropylene loves packing tape. ABS is fine with a very thin mist coating of hair spray on a hot textured glass surface. How hot? 170C is the goldilocks temp for me. This keeps the top of the build surface at the ABS glass transition temperature or softish. The catch is the 3M adhesive has a continuous service temp of 150C and the extreme edges of my build surface are about 5C cooler. First layer is always .3mm plus I always use a 0.4 nozzle typically with a wider paving width between .5 and .6mm, mostly variable layer thickness for the slicing. Another trick is over extruding the first layer up to 10 percent greater than the calibrated flow (I calibrate flow with a printed nut and bolt adjusting the flow to get the correct geometric thread clearance). Cheers -Peter

[@andyhelipilot3528]

I have 2 of the unmentionable Czech printers. PEI SMOOTH SHEET for PLA and ABS in an enclosure, if it's a small part maybe a bit of brim or glue stick. PEI POWERED COATED SHEET for PETG. The printer firmware allows you to select what sheet you have installed and adjusts the Z height to accommodate. Haven't printed with flexible or Nylon or PC have it here wait for an excuse to break it out the bag. My other FLSUN and Anycubic Delta’s changed to either mirror glass or Easy-Peelzy on mirror glass, for when you don't want to wait for it to cool down to start your next print. The other CR10 & Chiron style printers the same as with the deltas. Maker’s Muse did a review on the Easy-Peelzy. Only problem with all these different surfaces is they need a BL Touch and you need to ensure your printers are square and trammed. Matthew kindly guided me in the direction of using a Duet End Effector for the Deltas so you don't have to worry about adjusting z heights for different surfaces. Proper Printing did a video I think on printing on all sorts of surfaces like wood which was interesting. Can't get enough of these videos, liked minded individuals sharing information, just how it used to be and how it should be. Hope this helps someone in any way essay over. I did purchase the Ed Tyson course on 3D printing which was interesting in places, if your a newbie it's ideal, if you've been printing for a while, it didn't really give out the amount of info I was expecting, which is generally a lot. But you do have access to the course materials years down the line as things progress and change. I have just ordered some Wham Bam which is making some claims about what will stick to it and you can get this in a 2 sheet set, the bottom glued magnetic sheet and and sprung steel sheet to print on. The manufacturers are claiming it surpasses PEI and the top surface has to be flexible otherwise you won't get your print off. Quite a bold claim so I've ordered some to give it a go on one of my subjects😀 OHMAND I WANT SOME FREE STUFF PLEASE

[@stonedog03]

Thanks for all the effort you put into testing all the surfaces. I have a Creality CR-6SE with the stock "carborundum glass" bed. Seems to work fine with PLA. Haven't tried PETG yet. This is my first 3D printer and the experience has been great. I guess the "carborundum glass" is similar to "ultrabase"? Anyway, I WANT FREE STUFF....LOL

[@winandd8649]

I print ABS and use Kapton tape on glass, I dirst sand it lightly with 400 grid sand paper. The tape holds fine for lots of prints if your first layer is dialed in right and you remove the part carefully. PEI sheets don't like high temps of 100 C

[@chrisward8521]

Excellent video

[@-FARKI]

The magnetic buildtac or whatever is actually only rated at i think 60C° so printing abs is not possible on it, thats why it got ruined. The magnetic layer melts a bit, dont ask how i know this.. it was quite the task to get it off the bed..

[@davidtriune8028]

different materials like different beds. they should have a warning about material/bed incompatibilities, like PETG and buildtak. i welded those together a few times. PLA/PLA+ seems to work best on steel beds like PEI. Then the polycarbonate that i used seems to hate steel and glass, and only likes buildtak.

[@SHINESunshinee872]

Glad ur back like the vids

[@bac26c]

I’ve found that the best way to apply glue stick is to zig zag a little bit over the whole plate while coolThen, using a spray bottle with alcohol, spray the whole print bed. Using a paper towel rub the lines of glue around the bed so they don’t appear any more. Then let the bed dry. You’ll have a layer of glue over the whole bed. And won’t need to clean and reapply every print, just spray with alcohol and wipe gently with paper towel. Reapply as needed, I’ve found every 10-20 prints depending on size of print.

[@LoosiuFlying]

Keep on good work and esucation! I had good experience with pei and powder coate Pei steel sheet and Petg without any separation. Just remember to incrise Z distance.

[@adamfilip]

A clean FR4 sheet is all you need

[@user-em8ir1mo7d]

I want Free Stuff. Just finished watching your video. Really informative and my experience mirrors your. Checked out Nanopolymer and was about to get one but the shipping cost a nearly $30 to UK and that was the cheapest option!!!

[@thelightspeed3d712]

Good job Mathew! Hey what about Powder Coated PEI? That’s also being copied in China.

[@danieldunham9978]

I have some filament that is supposed to be PLA but only way it would print is 70 degree bed 210 degree nozzle and no part cooling or else it will curl up on the ends, but then it sticks like cement on my two bed surfaces. I have creality glass bed and original build tac. But i do like free stuff!

[@stevenmoore3410]

I get good results with Prusa's Powder Satin coated plates for PLA and PETG, although the PETG does have some fail points that I want to improve.

[@daleaferrrier]

For normal printing the best I have found is Aqua Net hair spray, I use unscented. I have tried glass, tape, pei... etc... And the hairspray works better than anything else.

[@santiagoblandon3022]

Have you tried Polymaker PA? they put an additive on it that delays crystallization, so it doesn't warp... furthermore, you need to print it with the bed relatively cold (less than 50°C) so the heat don't trigger the formation of crystals and thus warping. Then you need to anneal the print to fully (actually not fully.. it's a polymer ^^') crystallize the print and get the best mechanical properties out of it.

[@nerys71]

I just realized this video was 3 years old for some reason KZbin was suggesting it to me as new :-( KZbin is being wonky lately Anyway if you ever do something like this again your part is not a good test subject for warping because your part is actually a pretty low warp part as you know these plastics are thermoplastics they shrink they expand when they're hot they shrink when they're cold and this shrink is comes from length and layers you only have maybe 10 or 15 layers in that part so not much shrink leverage print that thing hollow with say two or three perimeters and say 100 mm tall with no bottom layers just hollow and now you'll have some shrink force :-)

[@l3d-3dmaker58]

for me the best solution I've had work is watered down PVA glue, 5:1 or so, spread suuuper thin on a piece of glass with a paper towel or a plastic card, it adheres ridiculously well to most materials (since PVA loves to stick to plastic), releases completely when cool (since it's on glass and it's super thin) and if you don't touch it with greasy fingers it lasts a lot of prints, if it gets dusty wipe it with a paper towel and hit print, really lasts a while and leaves a nice satin/matte-ish first layer also " I want free stuff " lol, would like to try that nano polymer adhesive, at least the $5 bottle would be fun to test with

[@dreamcat4]

I want free stuff!! Of course who wouldn't? But really thank you so much for this video. Just got my first 3d printer on a budget this week (ender 5). And am researching various upgrades for it straight away. So much potential. Also really agree with the sentiments expressed here about competing with China... it is very difficult! Just subscribed to your channel today and look forwards to watching many more of your videos. Invaluable! Really appreciate all the critiquing and honesty you mix in and include along the way. Also the color and life added with these backstories behind where all these solutions originally came from (and the related or supporting technologies. It helps so much! Makes it all easier to comprehend and understand what is going on. Best wishes from the UK.

[@dreamcat4]

Haha, just also watched your other recent video on the two trees saphire. Where you point out not to confuse with the ender 5, due to the increased gantry weight and the location of the tepper motors. However I was on a very tight budget and the ender 5 was heavily discounted to came out to be the same price as and ender 3. I think in future I would like to see if it can be converted 'somehow' or become more like a real xy. Or otherwise to become a spare parts bin from which to borrow towards a reprap. Have you seen the HevOrt BTW? Until then I have at least something to learn on. And it should be about as good as an ender 3 anyhow. But damn the price of the discounted saphire is also really low! The ender 5 cost me #200 GBP over here in UK. While the saphire looks to be only about #300 GBP. Oh well! Did not know at the time. Very new to all of this.

[@Jynxx_13]

Look at Cerakote ceramic coating. Been using it on guns and anything metal for years now. Ultrabase is a version of cerakote with a very fine abrasive in it to give it texture for plastic to grip on

[@nerys71]

This is a guess on my part but I do not think the residue is from the bed I think the residue is from the ABS I think the part left a very micro layer of ABS behind on that fake tack surface The white you are seeing is the same thing you get if you were to take that ABS part and bend it wherever you stress the plastic you're going to see that white that's what happens when you stress that plastic and by tearing it off that print surface and leaving a sliver of a layer behind you are stressing the plastic and I believe that's what the white is I could be wrong with that though

[@DrexProjects]

Free stuff; I would love that Nanopolymer. I am on my second bed with my Anycubic and it is wacked. My first bet got etched by my print head because I think somehow the level went off by witchcraft or something. And my second bed is losing grip as I clean it with isopropanol and I think it took all the coating off. Thanks, Great videos.

[@earlowens998]

Here’s a getting the print off trick I’ve learned. Leave the area where your printer lives. Go eat a sandwich, wash your hands a dry them. When you come back to the printer it has cooled down and on PEI and some times even glass the print has released. And the presenter is right, clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol.

[@consaka1]

I have just used hair spray. So far I have had pretty good luck with heated beds and hair spray.

[@thomassutrina7469]

Kapton is a Polyimide that is used for coating magnetic wire. The wire used to wind coils. If I remember correctly the failure of wires in airplanes is due to fatigue failure from rubbing of bundles of wire against each other. Miles of wire are in a commercial airplane. I want free stuff

[@avejst]

I want free stuff. Are you sure of the temperature on the side of the heatbed is homogen? Do you have the same temperature on the side and in the middle? Interesting test as always Thanks for sharing :-)

[@e-bike-bys-vykken7422]

Also seen a few people use wood glue and water mix apparently abs sticks good to glass bed tho I ain't tried it yet

[@richardbiljardt9439]

Another great vid ..and yes I would like some free stuff too !

[@robertknoll1403]

When I started printing polycarbonate, I had to find something that would work that I didn't have to replace when I switched back to pla/petg. A untreated 1\8th sheet of "Lexan" or clear polycarbonate plastic is like 5 bucks and you can cut two beds from the right size. it can be heated and pulled off and flexed too. Haven't tried nylon yet since upgradeng. Never printed ABS, I've never seen PETG stick first layer so well, PLA sticks good, and pops off nicely(petg pops off great at 35-40C but is hard to remove at room temp) and yeah polycarbonate sticks nicely too. Significantly lighter than glass too. All you have to do is binder clip the edges cause theyll want to rise if you heat your bed. Can be cleaned with denatured alcohol. Gluestick cab be cleaned with water. it works unheated with pla too, I don't print that way but I had read that it was possible and printed a small cube to confirm. Good mini subject for a cheap fix type thing, you can go from ruined print surface to hardware store to back to printing in a hour while you new replacement bed is shipping. Can be cut with a jigsaw/hacksaw/circular saw/razor-and-snap. When one side wears out you just flip it, so you get 4 print surfaces for 5 bucks. Essentially can be considered disposable but each side has lasted as long as my original anycubic bed sticker. Also, delta configuration best configuration. Fight me. :) Polar coordinates machines to rule them all!!!!!!!!!

[@liamsmith8518]

What delta machine do you reccomend?

[@winstonsmith478]

I was having huge problems with bed adhesion on a public library makerspace Lulzbot printer. I did some research and found the 90% isopropyl cleaning info I've posted here. I did that and adhesion was so good I could barely get the printed ABS item off the bed.

[@hectorpascale1013]

I would like to hear/read more about Kapton®. @37:10 The airplane crash incident and why it is not good in electronics. The DIY Li-Ion battery pack "modders" use it en masse.

[@andrewjamez]

what ever is in the adheisive, chances are that it existed in some form before 3d printing...just need to know what it is...also the glaring issue is if you have a filiment runout and shutdown then your print comes unstuck...something to keep in mind

[@butre.]

there's about a thousand grades of garolite and most of the off the shelf "garolite" (actually fr4, which is worthless for nylon but excellent for many other filaments) build surfaces are worthless. garolite CE, lightly but thoroughly scuffed with 80-120 grit sandpaper is my personal preference. 80-90c is the trick. you can get a 12x12x3/16 piece from mcmaster inexpensively. if you plan on printing other materials that require higher bed temps than nylon then garolite XX is excellent as well. that knockoff ender "buildtak" surface is polycarbonate. it's pretty much worthless on a heated bed.

[@geocle5]

Thank again this looks interesting 😊 I want some free stuff to tey

[@mpulford311]

I want free stuff. Excellent review on the different types of adhesion for different types of materials.

[@nerys71]

Also that's not ultra Base it's a clone or maybe something they tried at some point in time but every piece of ultra base I ever got was black The way ultra Base works is two factor first it's a coating that is applied to a glass plate there is no etching it's just a coating on top of the glass like PEI now the other feature it has is the little holes that's not an etching that is a hole in the coating meaning you can see down to the glass through those holes in theory what that does is provide mechanical grip think of it like the difference between you trying to hold on to a flat piece of glass by grabbing the flat surface of the glass with your hands and now think of you trying to grab a big plate of plastic that look like a milk crate so you could stick your fingers through the holes in the milk crate and grab That's what those little holes do when it cools and the entire part shrinks that's when it releases from the part The difference in shrink between the coated areas and the uncoated areas the holes is what allows it to pop free

[@ricardo-iw9sq]

So can you actually print pla and petg on a cold bed because I would have though by now there would be a print surface that would have been developed for run of the mill plastic.

[@relativisticvel]

VisionMiner also has good videos on printing with engineering materials

[@andrewforrister6206]

I appreciate that you actually spend the time to make long and detailed videos like this. I roll my eyes every time I see a "top 5 tips" video that just so happens to be 10 minutes long.

[@nerys71]

Oddly enough that crappy flexible creality magnetic sheet probably has the best adhesion of everything you have there that stuff sticks amazingly The problem is the damn substrate is flexible so while the part will not lift off the bed the part will simply lift the entire sheet off the bed :-) yep your part will be perfectly adhered and the sheet will be curved :-) Now if they would only put that surface on a steel plate that would be awesome oh and you don't need bed heat with that stuff I can usually start with bed heat and buy layer 10 the bed heat is turned off You can sometimes even get away with PETG with no heat as long as it doesn't have corners like when I print cylinders and stuff like that with a nice brim When you're printing a lot it can make a pretty big difference in the electric bill :-) My problem right now is I'm printing a low density 1 kg block that is 300x150 by 300 tall and even with a 1 mm nozzle my corners lift sometimes a lot even PLA will warp right off the bed and this is even printing on squeaky clean glass which PTG my primary material normally sticks to like gang busters I think it's pure mechanical leverage I think the layers above are shrinking and it's just tearing itself off the bed because I have a much lesser problem with the 400x400 printer since it has that roughly 70 mm buffer all the way around the park but I only have one printer with a 400 by 400 heater and when I print this on my 334s which I have plenty of it warps every time even PLA warps I think it's just mechanical leverage The last thing I haven't tried yet is an enclosure but those kind of concern me especially when I have to print 400 kg of plastic manufactured homes are like kindling to fire so I kind of shy away from enclosures

[@gregoryconnors7370]

I've always wanted "FREE" stuff, but I've found I can never afford it in the end.

[@JoakimGulbrandsen]

If its glue on the Ultrabase, alcohol wont be particularly effective. Rather use warm water, and dishsoap. It "melts" off. (I guess its PVA glue)

[@manfirebirdF350]

did you ever tried to sandblast a glass to see the benefit?

[@arthurmorgan8966]

Sidebar: Is ABS/Nylon fume not carcinogenic? More seasoned printer user friend told me it’s not good to use in open printers due to health hazard.

[@NemecJiri]

Vision Miner was founded in 2017 and first pieces of information about nanopolymer are from 2019. I had my Anycubic Ultrabase on my first printer in 2017. Don't falsely accuse whole china because it's little yellow. I have ordered a vision miner nanopolymer but I don't used it yet because I have Energetic PEI Powder Coated Spring Steel Sheet on all of my printers. It's fantastic, better than Prusa powder coated PEI because I can print almost anything without any preparations (TPU needs glue stick) and I can take off print from print surface minutes after print finished, don't need to wait half-hour when ultrabase is fully cooled down. But I don't print PA, only ABS, ASA, PLA and sometimes PC and PETG.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Hear me out... is it possible that maybe, just maybe the printer which I received in late 2019 with an Ultrabase bed had Nanopolymer on it from the factory? No, not possible. Not at all. Yeah, you're right I must be racist against "little yellow" It's all my bias at work here. There is no truth to my accusations of the rampant intellectual property theft by Chinese COMPANIES (not people). /s Also, "Little yellow" is not accurate. Chinese 3D printer products account for probably 75-90% of all 3D printer products. They aren't "little" they are dominant. They are dominant because they steel every single idea from innovators in western democracies such as the U.S. England, Germany, and S. Korea.

[@NemecJiri]

@@DesignPrototypeTest Ok, It's possible that some ultrabase clone use this nanopolymer, but not my Anycubic Ultrabase from 2017. Original Anycubic Ultrabase must be something developed in china. I have to agree that it's a big problem when they steal ideas like when they created dragon hotend from mosquito.

[@upgrade9349]

I want free stuff. But I'm still going to purchase a bottle.

[@petergrizon4434]

is there any existing print surface that can be printed PETG on it without a heated bed? have heared that ABS surface could do the job, but don't know how much true is that.

[@eclypse3d]

The best bed ahesion is getting your first layer correct, if you cannot do that, and get the right amount of squish, with a alcohol cleaned, bed then you are doing something wrong or using the wrong bed for material you are printing.

[@arnolduk123]

And the winner is....Blue painters masking tape!

[@adrianfidler1169]

Nice promo for Matterhackers.

[@Country_Bubba]

I want free stuff. Also like watching and learning from your videos. Thanks for all the effort.

[@ShawnA560]

I use geckotek cold and hot.

[@waynemenzie7015]

I want free stuff. And great video. I'm happy KZbin finally put you into my recommendations.

[@toalan]

Glue Stick is a moderator. For surfaces that are not sticky, glue stick adds adhesion. For surfaces that are too sticky, glue stick reduces adhesion. PEI has very good natural adhesion, glue stick is not needed to add adhesion, glue stick is to be used when the PEI has too much adhesion like when printing with flexible filaments and sometimes PETG. If you reran all the tests without glue stick on the PEI, I think PEI would have won.

[@nerys71]

As far as ultra Base being the best material I 100% agree with you and I 100% disagree with you :-) I love my ultra base and I hate my ultra Bass at the same time At least all my any cubic chiron Man that stuff works so well and it's so reliable I truly love it except when it doesn't work and there's no rhyme or reason as to why it's not working grrrrr I suspect it was the 91% alcohol I think that damaged the surface and so mine does not stick quite as well anymore So why do I hate it? Because you can't replace it for whatever reason they have four little threaded clips holding the glass plate on the any cubic Chiron I don't know why they bothered to waste the money to include or install those clips since they glued the goddamn glass plate onto the printer you can't remove it it can't be replaced there's no reason to even have those clips that plate is never coming off :-) Otherwise yes the stuff works very well

[@miszcz310]

Great to see that motorhome is not taking 100% of your yt time!

[@DrexProjects]

$22.27 shipping for a $5 sample. Yikes! Gunna gave to pass on that.

[@johnleonard3696]

Very informative. I want some free stuff .

[@ingeburgknotke396]

I just use a gluestick and it worked fine for me every time. 😅

[@reasonsvoice8554]

I was always fine with nothing till i was trying to print real small parts

[@3dPrintCreator]

Good video, with good tests. I just hope you are very wrong about the development costs and that is the only reason the price is so high when it comes to the Nano Polymer. I really hope that Vision Miner just makes good money from a good invention. There is nothing dirty about making money, and let's face it, a bottle of nano polymer lasts endlessly, as you say yourself, so it's not that expensive. Nevertheless, I want free stuff, because free is always fun.

[@seantazelaar9807]

When you did your printing tests, what was your nozzle temp and your bed temp? Reason I'm asking is because I just set up an Ender 3 pro V2 3d printer and my print keeps sliding around.

[@kingofthebums]

I don't have the answers but I'm experiencing the exact same thing! I've had mine about a week too

[@kingofthebums]

I've been watching a bunch of videos. I bought some glue stick but I'm afraid to try it. Also I've found that if I make a raft I can make it work. Also I have to turn of the fan and slow the speed down to half for the first layer then I can go up to like 90 percent speed and the fan just comes on on its own.

[@seantazelaar9807]

@@kingofthebums Good to know. I've heard that using a Vinegar and water mix on the glass to clean it will help it stick, but I'll have to test it first before I let you know.

[@kingofthebums]

@@seantazelaar9807 thanks. I tried glue stick with the raft thing because when I've been trying to speed up I'm losing adhesion. It's working really well. I'm able to run at about 60% for the first layer then I jump up to about 85 or 90. No problems so far. Also I'm still shutting off the fan for the first layer and it just seems to kick on by itself after that so that's convenient

[@thevaporcat4681]

i like free stuff because i can only get pla to stick no mater what ! i am fixing to put a coating of super glue on my glass from creality cr-10 v2 for the h..ll of it

[@trashpanda9433]

I'd love to see you test sanded polycarbonate, dabbed glue stick slurry, and sanded glass but great work on this

[@reasonsvoice8554]

Those spray adhesives are hairspray rebranded nothing will change my mind Fair play to them tho for managing to sell hairspray for 20quid a tin 😂😂

[@DaneC020]

Awesome video and good job on the tests! By the way, I WANT FREE STUFF!

[@robertmiskell6878]

I want free stuff. I like your videos. I hope you keep them coming even if at a slower pace because of your other adventures. Don't let the sock puppets get to you.

[@robertking3090]

I thought about using glue. but then i felt like if i did my machine is not tuned in properly and I'd be just making something kind of work rather than properly work.

[@TerryGilsenan]

Garolite with glue stick and bed temp at 50C... I print Nylon all day

[@henrikborchmann7996]

I want free stuff. As noob in this 3d printing world i love the depth of all the info :)

[@markwilliams5654]

Sugar mixed with water is cheap and works well 🤠

[@3D_Printing]

4:00 BUT if you pay $50.00 it will wear out

[@snax_4820]

PVA glue 1:1 dilution with water - cheap and best

[@Todestelzer]

And a big mess. If I can, i avoid using PVA glue at all. I use Vision miner polymer and 3DLAC.

[@borisfm6541]

I don’t agree with your results with g10 as I can see in your video that beneath it is the stock ceramic coated surface which came with the printer meaning less heat is being transferred from the aluminium heat plate to the g10 sheet making these tests invalid as the different build surfaces are not directly on the aluminium heat plate like it should be when you are 3D printing in the real world. Plus G10 needs to be heated well when 3D printing otherwise your prints won’t stick to the bed.

[@rexxx927]

I want free stuff, please... but could you do some videos on upgrading and printing pei maybe go tru the list pc/abc pc pei...

[@jonastillgren6063]

I want free stuff and more videos from you! 🖖👍

[@scottbaeder37]

I want free stuff... if not, maybe a sample size???