DI2 Alignment/Tuning Your Electronic Shifting System Part One

Once adjusted you can forget about it. Saul will show you the simple way to adjust the electronic shifting system on your bike. If you use Shimano's DI2 Electronic Shifting System on your bike you need to see this.

[@DaMaziii]

Awesome!!! Excellent job explaining Di2 on two parts!!! No other person has been able to explain it as clearly as you have with clear visualization as you have provided with clear explanation!!! The best by far sets you apart from the rest of the videos on KZbin!!! Thank you,

[@chrisjames1924]

This guy is like the sheldon brown for the KZbin generation. I'm not sure if there can be higher praise than that. He always keeps it clear, concise and on point. Exactly what we cyclists are after. And he does it all in John Malkovich's voice. Haha!

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Thank You. High praise indeed.

[@LaughingSaint66]

Chris James agree I’ve recently used his videos and also reading shimano manual OVER AND OVER 🤷🏼‍♂️ to install new di2 which was my virginity lost 😂🤙🏼 great success it’s always nicer to see a video helps as Manuel assumes ur a tech and u know what ur doing 😂😂🤪

[@hayabusa27]

Thanks for uploading this. Never knew I can ever align these things without dropping chains. This is the best di2 tune up video 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Glad I could help!

[@HannaMuegge]

This has been the most helpful video for me to getting to know my Di2 shifting. Thank you for sharing this video!

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Thank You.

[@adolfomontenegro6915]

Precise and to the point. Thank-you Saul!

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Glad it was helpful!

[@mikkelchristensen9724]

Saul is awesome - his instructions are as crisp as Salt and Vinegar chips. :-)

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Thanks.

[@alfred576]

Hi velotique, you are a legend. Really excellent videos, easy to follow on DI2 adjustment! Well done.

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Thank you.

[@DerrickMcKay]

Thank you, just what I needed!

[@john.crismar]

Ty! Great video!!! Silenced my 9-10 gears!!

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Glad it helped!

[@samtravis4822]

Loving this guy's verve

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Thank you.

[@hillclimblover2255]

Very simple, thank you very much!

[@Beeftopside]

Hi, great explanation! Does it matter whether the front is in the big or small chain ring?

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Thank you. It does not matter what chain ring you are in.

[@DaMaziii]

Hello Velotique, I hope all is well with you and the love ones! I need to know during this process about the chain for the front chainring. is the chain sitting on the big chainring or the small chainring while I am setting the alignment? In the video you show where the chain should be on the 5th cassette but the video does not show the front where the chain should be, whether it is on the small chainring or big chainring!!! Thank you so much for the information, very helpful.

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Thank you. large Chain ring.

[@philipcooper8297]

Got the DI2 shifters? Better call Saul.

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Thanks.

[@kennethhowell5291]

You are the best! Thank you!

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

You're welcome!

[@passingham]

Hi there! Best video on Di2 adjustment out there! Thanks! For some reason my junction box gives me a red and green before it goes to solid red. And then when I want to get out of adjustment mode, more stuff before it goes out. I'm familiar with the double press for the shifting mode, and I use the longer single press to connect to the E-tube project. I know to hold for 5 seconds to get out of protection function mode. Please help! I get into adjust mode fine but not sure why I don't just get a simple red right away.

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Sometimes it is difficult to get the correct timing of a double click and click and hold. This can result in misreading the mode. Make sure that you have installed the latest Firmware on your bike. Hold down the Junction Box button until the red light comes on. This indicates Setting Mode. If you hold the button longer, the red light will light, then blink and finally the red and green light will blink. this is the Protection Recovery Operation. With the Red Light On you are in Setting Mode. To exit Setting Mode, hold the button on until the red light goes out. The Red and Green light will blink once to indicate the default mode. It will blink twice to indicate shift mode 1. Or it will blink three times to indicate shift mode 2. Hope this helps.

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

You might find my video on Synchro Shift Settings useful. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYTYk6OVoNmHptU

[@passingham]

Thanks yes I watched it Saturday and it was great! I played with the settings via Etube on iPad but then went back to default mode. I like the Garmin 1000 as you can just switch the mode with the Garmin.

[@passingham]

I found this finally on the Shimano site si.shimano.com/pdfs/um/UM-7FE0A-005-00-ENG.pdf Indicates that for the new 100 series batteries it's 0.5 sec or more for bluetooth connection mode, 2 sec or more for adjustment mode, and 5 sec or more for RD Protection reset mode. Thank you for the quick response!

[@passingham]

My bike shop tells me that the latest software update has made it so you see red and green before you see solid red for adjustment mode (or setting mode as you call it). I had just recently updated my software the day before. Thanks!

[@comgenii]

This will be my bike bible

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

I'm honoured.

[@gustaforomendoza4144]

Hi everyone, i hava a problem with the di2 system, looks like i have loseen 2 steps, i mean. Step 1 and 2 are not In phase with the choosen ones. The gear number 3 is muy new step 1, and there are the last 2 steps(smallests)... They are floating. But the limit screw keeps the chain In the smallest gear, what can i do? Y tried by using the computer and i can not modify the posición.

[@Tchairdjian]

Hi Saul.. I need your help again please: I have some questions about how to adjust my Di2 Gears... I now have built 2 bikes with Di2 Components and have read the Shimano Manuals on how to adjust my gears but I still have some questions, especially on adjusting the rear derailleur. This isn't a big problem when I have to make the adjustment once and leaving it alone, but every time I put one of my bikes on the Wahoo Kickr I need to make adjustments and it's getting to be such an exercise. I don't want to wing it... so I am preparing a Checklist so I can follow it easily and not think about it... So here's what I know so far, and also I indicated my questions where I am having a problem: My problem is mainly with adjusting the REAR GEARS... I think the Front is easier and don't need much adjusting, but I am including the instructions just in case someone else is interested in how to do it. Also, I am using my Garmin Edge 530 to actually visually see which position my chain is in for each mode i.e. -18 to +18 increments. I am recording this on a piece of paper for future adjustments, but I am finding that it's not always where I need to be after I move the bike on/off the trainer... Di2 GEAR Adjustments Rear Derailleur 1. The Chain should be set on Cog #5 (counting from inside). 2. Enter the Adjustment Mode (Press Button until Red Light is ON) 3. Keep Pressing the appropriate Right Shifter button to push the chain inward towards Cog #4 and until it touches it and starts to make noises. 4. Move the chain back by 4 STEPS, pressing the other Shifter Button. 5. Exit Adjustment Mode Is this it? What if the gears still don't change smoothly, they're too noisy or won't shift quickly? Questions: 1. Can adjustments be made if the chain is not set on Cog 5 when entering Adjustment Mode? 2. Does it matter which front RING the chain is set on, i.e. the Small or Big ring? 3. If the chain does not fall down to a smaller cog easily or it falls with a marked delay, which way do I need to make the adjustment (Compare this with Mechanical Components, where the tension must be reduced on the cable by rotating the adjustment knob clockwise; and vice versa... ) 4. Similarly, if the chain does not move up to a larger cog easily, which button must be used to make the proper adjustment? Front Derailleur Adjustments This is pretty clear. There are THREE Adjustments that must be made. 1. Mechanical: There is a screw (Top Adjustment Bolt 2mm HEX) that moves the Chain Guide a) Set the gears to Big Ring/Smallest Cog. b) Use the screw to adjust the chain position so that there is a clearance of 0.5-1mm between the chain and the chain guide's OUTER plate. 2) Electronic - Low Position Adjustment. a) Set Gears to Small Ring/Biggest Cog b) Enter Adjustment Mode c) Adjust so that there is a clearance of < 0.5 mm between the chain and the chain guide's INNER plate. Use Front Shifter Buttons to move the chain, in the same way as you change gears... [X} to push out, [Y] to push inwards 3) Electronic - HIGH Position Adjustment. a) Set Gears to BIG Ring/Big Cog b) Enter Adjustment Mode c) Adjust so that there is a clearance of < 0.5 mm between the chain and the chain guide's INNER plate. Use Front Shifter Buttons to move the chain, in the same way as you change gears... [X} to push out, [Y] to push inwards Thanks. Dick

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

It should not be necessary to adjust your gears when putting your bike on the Kicker. It is just like a wheel change. If the gears are positioned correctly and are the same number (ie. 11 speed). Make sure that you are not using an incorrect spacer on the Kicker Cassette. I have had similar problems when my dropouts are not mounted correctly on my Kicker. Sometimes minor miss-adjusting of rear derailleur can be exaggerated when mounted on your Kicker. Once aligned it should be good with your rear wheel or trainer. You seem to have a good grasp of the adjustment procedure. You can make adjustments in any gear (front or back). In adjustment mode each click of the lever moves the derailleur 1/12 of a shift. don't be afraid to try minor adjustments on the fly. You can always go back to the 5th gear adjustment if it gets totally out of wack. Finally if your rear derailleur is worn out. You will have trouble shifting to smaller cogs. After 20,000 kms I had to replace mine.

[@Tchairdjian]

velotique I think I posted me replies to this on the previous comment.. but I think you got it haha. Thanks.

[@DaMaziii]

I have one question: There is one other screw that sits on the rear derailleur, which I don't know it's function! Can you please explain that?

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

The third screw adjusts the angle of the rear derailleur to set the clearance between the chain/jockey-wheels and the rear gears. If your jockey-wheels make contact with the lowest gear (largest cog) this will need adjustment.

[@DaMaziii]

+velotique can you please put up a Video for that? So I can visually see how precisely I can adjust that properly! Thank you so much!! I have watched all your videos and have learned so much!! Last night I adjusted so many things on my bike!! Thanks for that!! I Subscribed and gave you thumbs up on all video!!

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Thank you for your support. Great suggestion for a video.

[@DaMaziii]

Thank you in advance!!! Please provide information of where is the right angle for the rear derailleur to be, which this screw adjusts this angle. What are the factors or elements that decides where this rear derailleur should be to give maximums support. I have no idea what is the purpose or benefit of this rear derailleur adjustment. How does this interplay with the shifting or riding or anything else. Could you please cover this area completely in your video,,, Thank you so much!!!

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

This is rarely a problem. If the jockey-wheels hit the gear it needs adjusting...otherwise don't worry about it. happy riding.

[@colinsmith8908]

Nice explanation of tuning Di2. Just one question, why 1/12 and not 1/11 when using an 11 speed cassette?

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

1/12 of one click has little to do with the number of gears. 1/12 is finer than 1/11. But, for the actual reason you will have to ask Shimano.

[@yuhengli1979]

Thank you for this solid tutorial! I followed this to adjust my rear derailleur, by adjusting H/L/B screw multiple times, I think I messed it up. Now even on front bigger ring, I could not reach to smallest cog, seems it is now 10 gears rather than 11. I tried to micro adjust that smallest cog to move it outward, also tried to loosen the H screw, but it does not work, any idea? Thanks!

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Shift into as small a gear as you can. Loosen the High limit screw as much as you can. Set the Di2 mode to adjustment. Use the micro adjustments to click into that smallest cog.

[@yuhengli1979]

@@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul thanks, problem solved by adjusts the B screw to move pulley away from cassette a little bit.

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Glad you solved it.

[@adrianofly7]

Hello!! My Sm-ew90b don't work. The light don't turn on. You know how to test it?

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Things to check. Plug in charger, does the yellow light go on on the charger? Plug it into a computer to run E-tube project software connection check. Check all the cables connecting to the ew90.

[@vikurbi3508]

Hi Saul, what about front shifter, is there also any similar method? I have 6870 and the tuning method works only for rear dialeur. In my case, I would like to move outwards a little bit the position of FD on the big ring with the combination of last smallest 3 at the casette (3 hardest gears). It is the same in position of DOWN-TRIMMED FD on big ring, when on the casette is 4-7 ring - in this mode 2x(4-7) is FD trimmed inwards, but still it could be positioned 0,5-1mm outwards. Thanks for help!

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

See the front adjustment section of the dealer manual, page 69: si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-UL0001-03-ENG.pdf

[@vikurbi3508]

@@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul Thank you Saul!! I found it - the FD is able to adjust only in geared big front ring and biggest rear ring (position 2x1). Then if you enter the adjustment mode with long press of the button you can adjust the FD with clicking on front shifter.

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Glad you found it.

[@magnosouza9056]

Boa noite!Posso usar sti dura ace di2 com cambios ultegra ambos 10v?.

[@Dralbastaki]

do I need to repeat if I change the cassete size from 28 to 32?

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

No.

[@johnterjepedersen3409]

Hi. I recently installed Ultegra Di2 on my bike. The gears are then adjusted to the cassette on the rear wheel. And everything is perfectly set up by a mechanic. But after starting to ride indoors on smart trainer I hear noise when I ride. Both cassettes were purchased at the same time as Di2. Do I still have to adjust individually for each cassette? Thank you in advance.

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

If you changed cassettes with a different spacer then you will have to adjust. If in doubt make the adjustment. Should not be necessary if position and spacing do not change.

[@Digi20]

you have to adjust if the casette is in a bit of different position. so when you use a different wheel, or the smart trainer, that can happen.

[@DaMaziii]

So, you are saying the only time I need to worry about it is the time that the jockey wheel is hitting the gears!!! In other words it doesn't matter in which angle the jockey wheel is sitting on!!! I am not an expert on this area. However, I do want to completely understand this issue. I may be wrong but there must be a purpose, otherwise why even have this because it can be built in a sense that it would not be able to move so there will be no need to adjust it. Also, please let me know if you are making the video to explain this in detail or not. If not I can look other places to try to understand this issue. Thank you, Damaziii

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

The screw adjusts the tension on the derailleur spring. The net effect sets the clearance for the jockey wheels maintaining chain tension. The point is to have the jockey-wheels close but not touching the gears while not loosing chain tension. Spring tension has a wide range making this adjustment not as critical as many people believe, in my opinion.

[@Digi20]

the main Purpose of the B-Screw is to set-up the deraileur for the largest sprocket in the back. so shift to your lowest gear (biggest sprocket), take an allen key and turn that screw. you will see how the deraileur moves the jockey wheel closer or further to the sprocket. the main goal is to have it close, but not touching/rubbing. so abviously, you have to adjust this according to your cassette size. if you put an 11-34 in there, it must be lower down (screw in) than on an 11-25 (screw out). its not that necessary to get it perfect. generally you can try what you like more. if its close it may shift the chain a bit more crispy but harsher, if its far off it my be more comfortable but slower. dont bring it too far though, it may have trouble shifting.

[@Tchairdjian]

@@Digi20 Also make sure that by bringing the jockey wheel too too close to the Big Cog you're not making the chain too loose. Test this by setting your chain on Small Ring/Small Cog and see it the chain is sagging or not... In my case, I have a 42T in the back (with a 50/34T Chainset and RoadLink DM on the Rear Derailleur) so I am finding that going too close to the Big Cog is making my chain sag a lot... so there is some compromise... hence my shifting is not the crispest but at least I am able to climb.

[@Tchairdjian]

Hi there again. I am finally installing my R8050 Derailleur and finding the instructions in the manual too confusing or vague, especially when discussing the H and L limit screws. With regards to Adjustment of the Low-Side Stopper Blot, what does it mean "Shift the rear derailleur to the largest sprocket, and then tighten the low-side stopper bolt until it just touches the left link." What is the LEFT LINK?? and again with the top-side stopper bolt: "Shift to the smallest sprocket, and then tighten the top-side stopper bolt until it touches the left link at the position where the rear derailleur stops." What is the LEFT LINK?? Could you explain how do I adjust these bolts?? When I turn these bolts I don't notice any movement...

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

It is the point at witch the limit screw makes contact with limit stop on the derailleur body. Same for Top Side.

[@Tchairdjian]

Thanks Saul. Makes sense. My components are brand new btw. But i still would like to know the action require for the equivalent thing we do when using the cables system...

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

In a mechanical system tightening the cable shifts towards bigger cogs. In Di2 adjustment mode (red light on) clicking the X button on the lever does the same thing.

[@Tchairdjian]

velotique so if I notice that the chain is having difficulty jumping down to a smaller cog, then I need to loosen the tension for a mechanical shifter and for Di2, I need to use the Y button to move the chain outwards? Similarly if I notice that the chain is having difficulty moving up to a bigger cog, then I need to tighten the cable tension or for Di2 push the X button to move it inwards. Correct?

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Yes.

[@26realmc]

You don't mention if adjustment is done on big or small ring?

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

Makes no difference. Rear derailleur is independent.

[@DaMaziii]

velotique thanks for the video!!!

[@DaMaziii]

Also, I am going to try it on the big and small ring to see if it does make any difference!!! So I set it on the small ring first and adjusted and then put it on the big ring to see if it needs any adjustment!!! Thank you so much for your informative videos!!!

[@tamiltigerforever20]

Hello for 11 Speed which position I should position the dérailler? thank you?

[@velotiqueBetterWatchSaul]

I'm not sure what you mean. Most of these systems are 11 speed today.

[@tamiltigerforever20]

velotique OK I understood thank you

[@beneditoanunciacao9713]

rear shift ultegra 6870 runs on a 6770 di2

[@rohanblues]

I’m enjoying the bike so far kzbin.infoUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.