Different Types Of Fiberglass Repair

[@brucelance9766]

This is THE BEST fiberglass repair instruction on the Web! He quickly explains the "Where", "Why", "What" and "How". His productions have vastly improved from his first videos....this is very well done and very helpful....thanks Boatworks guy!

[@andrewernst3884]

This is by far the best fiberglass repair video I have ever seen

[@SoutheastBluesMan]

You're a true craftsman and a pleasure to watch. You have no idea what these videos mean to us DIYers. Many thanks

[@deusjevoke]

I am taking so much notes. I am currently restauring the cutest 1964 fiberglass RV and this is so incredibly helpful. Not only all the steps, but the additional info about curing, heat, glass fibre... incredibly useful. Thank you so much! Love from Belgium.

[@boatworkstoday]

Here's how I compare the two: Bondo: Not 100% waterproof, relatively low bonding strength to it's substrate, very short working time (1-2 minutes per batch) can only be mixed in small amounts and is more porous than epoxy. Epoxy w/410 Filler: It's 100% waterproof, very high bonding strength, working time can be up to 30+ minutes with the appropriate hardener allowing much larger batches to be mixed, gives a non-porous finish and is able to be used in lower air temperatures. Hope this helps!

[@eyesyc]

Absolutely helps. These videos are great and thorough. Thanks

[@PaulSmithMusicMD]

I love this guy! He presents not only how, but why you do what you do to repair. Very good information and plus it's presented in a logical and understandable way. Thank you for this!

[@anthonyrizzo8802]

Wow!

[@benstenson3578]

You couldn't have said it any better

[@MatthewHoelscher]

Andy I watched all your videos, purchased some West Systems 105 Fiberglass repair kit and fixed the halyard cleat and pulley that pulled out of the fiberglass deck of my 1979 Sunfish. Thank you for the instruction and confidence to do it myself.

[@llaracuente]

Great video, it’s very informative and you explain it so well! A small tip for when you have tight rounded edges: at 17 min into the video you can make different sized sanding blocks by winding printing paper tightly in small tubes and tape it with duct tape. Make sure you use enough paper so that it is rigid enough to sand with. You can pre-make different sizes and add them to your tool box! Thanks again!

[@scopex2749]

This guy needs a show on the DISCOVERY CHANNEL! I have just bought a Mahogany 60,s twin engine cruiser and she has ALL this to do! I think MANY of us owe this guy a beer each!

[@jamierogers5685]

Great job on videos. I’ve picked up a boat for my son so we can do a project together he wanted his own boat an I know nothing about fiberglass. But now I think it’s something we can do. So thanks again from Louisiana. Keep it up buddy.

[@karlozmalachi6964]

I hit the jackpot motherload when I found your channel. OMG... Great content. Great teacher.... Thank you...

[@chrish2996]

Hi Andy. This video has over 1 million views. Cant wait to see you at work in the new shop and back to the Bertram. You are a Legend 🙌

[@ratusbagus]

This is a voice from the future Andy. You didn't age at all!

[@1972mdc]

Love the detail! In talking with West Systems they promote the wedding cake vs inverse wedding cake style of glass layers. Their book also recommends that and what I saw you do was the inverted cake (smallest first, then next size, until the largest is last). From a shape perspective it makes sense but they said "because if you add one too many pieces you would have to grind into your largest piece which is the strongest"

[@amoebaart]

That is smart, but I think the approach also depends on the shape, position and size of the problem you are fixing.

[@JasonDouglasMedia]

this winter im going to be undertaking a small 14 foot runabout reno and all your advice is really helpful, thanks eh!

[@tdfbassin8067]

Bob Ross of Fiberglass right there!

[@abdellahboulhouda2167]

Thanks for your beautiful videos you teach as a lot. Greeting and big big warm thanks to you sire from Morocco the north of africa. I love the way that you present and the way that you try to make everyone understand simply. Thanks again and again

[@eag725]

yes, this guy is excellent. Very professional and clear.

[@patches224]

Great video! I am Patrick Cunningham, NTL Sales MGR for CASS POLYMERS INC, the maker of the ADTECH P-14. We proud of our entire polyester line and we also make all the products that you demonstrated with the epoxy products. Our general purpose epoxy is called PROBUILD. We offer four different hardeners depending on how much working time that you want. Our polyesters are the best on the market, least moisture absorption, easy sanding. Thanks!

[@billregan1981]

Great video series! You're giving me tons of confidence (maybe too much), to tackle some soft deck spots on my 22' sailboat!

[@AdvancedTacticalHSV]

Excellent Video. Nice to see there are still people that actually know how to do something. Good job.

[@johnnydeutschemark3620]

Your information is as important as the epoxy-material itself.

[@murraykennedy6019]

I've had problems with permanent markers bleeding through the finished paint surface months after the finished job, even after washing with lacquer thinner and acetone, I only use pencil now and have never had any issues. Having to repaint a Multi- stage pearl white job was a good lesson on not using permanent markers!

[@williamevans6522]

Whatever the ratio is , I calculate it in grams of hardener to grams of resin. I then place a disposable container on a digital scale, ,set it to zero, then pour in the calc'd weights. I believe it to be more accurate than volume measure.

[@florinatorina1356]

Andy, that is just what I need. 😀👍 I bought a Spirit 28 and it needs exactly every kind of fiberglas repair you explain, not many, but still a hole here and a spidercrack there. Your explanations are very detailed and easy to understand. Thank you 🏅🤗

[@benstenson3578]

Your content is seriously amazing.. you're super informative, and you make your videos entertaining to watch. I am astonished at how well these videos are made, and how much great info is in them.

[@kelr2387]

This guy is awesome. Great detail, easy to understand.....my go to guy for info.

[@boatworkstoday]

More than likely they are just minor stress cracks which are fairly common; yes they will most likely print through the new bottom paint. A quick Q: are the cracks somewhat grouped in a pattern or randomly scattered throughout the hull? I'd tap the areas lightly with a hammer to see if there is a sound difference. Let me know what you find out :-)

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

Nice seeing someone doing it right!!

[@mattyyg]

I'd like to register a complaint, your videos are far to interesting and informative and I've learned too much today. ;-) Good stuff, I was actually looking for some tips on doing some small repairs on my Hobie 16 hulls and I can't believe all the useful info in your shows. Keep up the good work and thanks!

[@spudpud-T67]

6:50 You can buy a chopped fiber that is compatible with epoxy. It uses a different bonder: powder and works as well with epoxy as polyester does with the chopped mat you have in this video.

[@bellissimo5671]

Thank you sir! Just venturing into the mold making/repair world and you do an excellent presentation! Godspeed!

[@boatman222345]

As always a highly detailed, thoroughly explained repair video. As they say, the devil is in the details, and so many other sites tend to leave out what this fellow puts in. Excellent info delivered in a personable easily understood style. Five thumbs up!

[@owohgeorge2474]

Great demonstration. Many thanks for sharing your immense talent.

[@boatworkstoday]

If you're looking to re-tap the hole, personally I would drill the hole out slightly oversized, fill with thickened epoxy and let it cure. Re-drill the proper sized hole for the screw and insert :-) Having the new screw surrounded with epoxy will also help prevent future possible issues with water absorption into the core..

[@billgagnon4670]

Beautiful.....thanks for the vids .much better to watch resin set up then waiting for paint to dry

[@thomasconeys4629]

Explained so well, takes the wystery and aprehensions out or attempting DIY

[@BariMusawwir]

thank you so much very informative I have been watching clip after clip for an entire day and only this one quenched my thirst for the information great work

[@MrMcw56]

Very good videos, like the detailed information. I am restoring a thirty one year old bass boat and you are a big help! Keep up the good work...

[@boatworkstoday]

I haven't but it's pretty straight forward. Just make sure to have everything planned out, be prepared to work very fast as the foam starts to expand very quickly and don't do large pours in enclosed cavities. A few small pours are better than 1 large pour :-)

[@boatworkstoday]

Thanks @Timulator :-) My reasoning for going with epoxy / paint boils down to time (which directly effects customer cost). Doing these types of repairs in gelcoat adds a significant amount of finishing time. Key word here is REPAIR.. When building something new and being able to use molds for the non-skid and shape, poly resin and gelcoat are much more economical. But when repairing something and blending into existing surfaces not so much; there's a tradeoff between material cost and time.

[@akkemik]

it is a masterpiece video about fiberglass repair ever seen... well done!

[@paulgains4516]

oh mate it is so good to see a fellow boat builder showing how to do a job the right way. so sick of seeing others stuffing up rebuilds for floor and transom repairs, standard rule of thumb what you take out you put back in, you need to mention they need to take note of how thick the work surface is to how much glass they need to use on the repair.

[@SebastianDeBeer]

Your timing as always is just right - need to do just this kind of work on my boat over the next couple of months. Instead of painting could you coat these repairs with flow coat?

[@louisdomonte7227]

I agree. Very informative and expertly done. You ought to put on a show on PBS called this old boat. YOur that good!

[@the_real_randall]

Thanks for putting together all these videos. I bought your Ebook as well.

[@TheDesertSailor]

You are the only person I can watch on youtube how to videos that I am with you through the whole thing! Love your videos. Sooo helpful.

[@chuckdilmore2040]

you are The Master. (and a great Teacher!)

[@boatworkstoday]

Hey Joseph, if the repair spots are below the waterline and not requiring gelcoat then I would just use thickened epoxy. I am doing a blister repair / prevention video now that should be of some help. I'll have that video ready sometime in Sept :-) BTW, surprised the marina does not allow sanding outside; never heard of that. Usually as long as there are tarps on the ground and a curtain hanging down from the hull to contain dust that should be good.. May want to look into that a bit more.

[@Sprucegrove123]

Great video Andy such as great presentation as always

[@boatworkstoday]

Hey thanks Mojo, yes as long as it's a "small" hole (less than 1/4") you can put some tape on the bottom side of the hole, dish the top and fill with thickened epoxy or thickened poly resin if you're top coat is gelcoat. If you're not able to access the bottom of the hole you can take a small piece of papertowel, wad it up and push it into the hole to create a backer for the resin. You'll want this to be as deep as possible without actually pushing all the way through. Good luck :-)

[@fruitstick78]

Great vid! Now I feel a lot more confident to repair my boat for the first time! 😁

[@augiemattheiss]

Excellent presentation, maybe I can take on that hole in my RV now!

[@gurnamdulku3729]

You are a great inspiration brother. Appreciate it

[@joedraggerman5735]

Your the best man I’m using all my acquired knowledge rebuilding my pilot house back wall and a side rail. A lot of work but satisfying when done.

[@PatrickInCayman]

Great videos and extremely informative. I learned more in two of your videos than I did in two weeks searching the internet. Will definitely watch the rest. Got a 32 Ericson sloop that I'm refurbishing. Got some deep deck cracks going into the core and about 4-5 inches long. Just stemming from to the hull. The area of the core seems to have some amount of dry rot. Could you point me to a video that deals with a similar situation?

[@SebastianDeBeer]

@boatworkstoday Thanks - will do. Going down to the boat tomorrow so will take some photos the. Cheers Sebastian

[@CaptnB05]

Love what you are doing! Keep up the great work!

[@nassosfili6737]

Thank you for your videos ! They have helped me alot !

[@LJ-gn2un]

Very informative, thank you for that. I was about to pay someone to do some minor repairs in my fiberglass but now I think I can do it myself!

[@SailingvesselLuxor]

The repair with the dimples that you used filler to smooth out, if you needed to could you put csm on top of that if trying to make it level? I have an uneven surface i am trying to level out before glassing. Your thoughts appreciated and by the way i really love and enjoy your videos. You have given me the courage to try this on my own. Thank you!!

[@davidbradley3074]

Thanks for producing this training episode, you the man!

[@nancysmith9487]

Thank yous for sharing.... Very informative guidelines for the day. And tutorials on what you prefer on different types of damages. Like your painting and filling strokes. Hello tree... Appreciate your time and effort plus teaching someone that may pass it on one day to there kids or grandkids,or friend

[@shawnp8429]

Your name is now the boat master, your so good at this I now think I can do it..and I'm gonna try

[@nathanmartin1208]

Love your videos. What would I do if I cut the deck of my Kenner center console to put in a hatch to protect the exposed core? Do have a video for that?

[@boatworkstoday]

Something that size you'll need to remove parts of the interior for access; I would not recommend patching something that big from one side only.. Just remove the damage and grind back your tapers. It would be helpful to use a thin plastic board or ply sealed with plastic to press against the hull to maintain shape for the first couple layers of glass. Once the shape is established you can then move onto laying up the bulk of the material and final fairing. Any repair area needs to be dry

[@davidbanahan7708]

Great presentation, good pace, solid instruction. Can I send a picture of a fiberglass aircraft fairing with a missing piece from the manufacturer?

[@tonyhinder1326]

Hi, firstly great videos, great that you give so much time to share your skills, thank you, i have brought a Rinker and shipped it from New York to Dubai, when unloading the container the boat got very damaged, basically they loaded the boat on its side to fit it in the container, cut a long story short both sides of the boat got a hole a size of a soccer ball, please can you recommend some steps as the holes are a lot larger then what you have been demonstrating, thank you in advance, Tony

[@airtimedesign]

Really enjoy watching your videos. I'm trying to learn how to work with fiberglass on my own project boat and you are a great teacher. Production is clean too. Camera and audio look and sound good. Nice job. Please keep the info coming. Trying to find a rattle between inner and outer liner on a 23' Seacraft. Thinking about cutting an access hole and filling with foam. Have you done a demo on using foam?

[@LadyTSurvival]

i have learned a lot from your videos so... thank you for your explanations. i will have two or three 14 in x 14 in holes in the top of a fiberglass van top to fill in. the top has three vents coming through, only really need 1. so i have been soaking up knowledge on how to fix fiberglass so that i do not mess it up too badly. the only thing i am worried about is the gel coat. getting it smooth enough. will cross that bridge when i get to it. may have to recoat the whole top depending on if the patches can be seen from the ground.

[@amoebaart]

I love this video so much. THANK YOU.

[@boatworkstoday]

Gotta say a 24' build is pretty ambitious! I'm hoping to have time to do a 12-14' this Summer but we'll see; still gotta pay the bills :-( I guess I need to answer a question with another question; what kind of design are you building? Typically the types of glass that I use 95% of the time are 1.5oz CSM and 1708 biaxial. For this size boat I'd say this more of what you should be looking at. But, there are different types of glass recommended for particular applications. A lot of consider.

[@kirkknight5590]

I am going to try to install a fiberglass bulkhead on my Alden open water scull to beef it up and maybe make it float better. Thank you for the info!

[@splash5974]

Love your vids! I have to fix some damage on a large truck with fiberglass hood. The hood was smacked with a piece of equipment. Its all intact still, but lots of cracks. I realize you are a pro with marine stuff, but fiberglass work can be applied to so many things... I have good access to both sides of the hood, so i will taper back both sides and use CSM to do my repairs. I would like your opinion on whether or not to use poly resin or epoxy resin. I already have poly resin on hand, but do you think id have a better repair with epoxy? I will do final repair on finished side of the hood with body filler, primer, and paint. Thank you kindly, hope your enjoying your Friday!

[@pingutales1206]

Hello Andy! I love your videos. Do you have any videos on how to repair cracks and damages on top of anti skid mats, without messing up its look and function? My old sailboat has a lot of them, and I would love to fix them with solid repairs. Greetings from Norway.

[@MrTtmich]

High quality instructional video!

[@rcmoot]

I would like for you to do a segment on repairing blisters on bottoms.

[@boatworkstoday]

Well, it depends :-). You can apply additional coats of epoxy without sanding providing you do so before it fully cures. Once its too hard to make a mark with your fingernail you'll need to sand and clean w acetone before the next layup. Each layup should not exceed a 1/4" in thickness (MAX)..

[@kevinhenry61]

Very informative and well presented. I'm finding a lot of useful information in your videos for repairing a 17ft. Fibreglass/gelcoat Boler trailer. Thank you for posting. I have subscribed. Very good job.

[@edwardlocke874]

I LOVE YOUR CHANNEL!!!

[@boatworkstoday]

Hey Mario, sorry about the delay (just catching up on things since the baby came :-) In short, no unfortunately body filler would not be adequate if the hole is through the hull; even if it is small.. However, if it's just a small screw hole thickened epoxy with a little patch of glass should be fine.. Feel free to post a pic or two on my facebook page (and consider giving it a like as well!) and I'll be able to give a better idea of what should be done..

[@boatworkstoday]

Thanks Louis! I think you just made my day :-)

[@cwmaxfield2000]

Exactly what I need to know as I need it. Thanks.

[@autofanaticcars]

Excellent videos

[@FarmageddonRecordsOfficial]

Thank you so much for all of this information Andy, it's helping me get my 1963 Sears Runabout back to life. Whoever is disliking your videos needs a swift kick in their junk.

[@awesum65]

Great video. Did you ever get to the part on stress cracks? that was reall what I needed most. Thanks!

[@boatworkstoday]

Bob Ross kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWSciGCQg6hklZI

[@ainstaink8312]

Thank you for this great video! Very detailed!!!

[@jamukas1]

Great video very well presented and awesome handy information, thank you!

[@rcmoot]

I have used a cut piece of acetate or mylar and cover my filler . Then squeegee all around to outside edges, to really make it flat . Super flat ,smooth and easy sanding .

[@yeoldepirate783]

Andy please do a video on what you do for dust control, without the high end tools with vacuum systems, Thanks

[@boatworkstoday]

Thanks Bill! Good luck with your projects :-)

[@apaulothegreat1581]

You're very good on conveying great video my friend keep up the good work we all appreciate you

[@TheJimsock]

Yep, this is the one I've been waiting for. Thanks.

[@Napthalicious]

Fantastic! I just clicked to see about options for the old truck-shell and I found an old-school expert on fiberglass! You go, boy! Fix that shit...

[@Napthalicious]

We are a dying breed...

[@boatworkstoday]

Thank you! Right now I don't know of any good vids to show how core replacement is done, but if you are able to send me some pics and more info I can help walk you through the process :-)

[@miccheck1516]

whats the song at 27:47? thanks for your videos, im looking at buying a laser dinghy at the minute and it has one or two spots where the gelcoat has cracked, you're helping me decide if they are something i can fix or if i should wait for another...

[@ny1t]

Thanks much, Wish me luck on the auction.

[@jeffgilmore8901]

Very helpful, I am repairing molds used to pour concrete umbrella anchors. Thanks!

[@russellplouffe2863]

Geez your awesome thanks for the awesome information. How would you do a repair like these on the underside of a boat though?

[@boatworkstoday]

Are you planning to use epoxy or polyester resin? If you're looking to keep costs down poly resin with csm and 1708 biaxial glass will give all the strength you need, easily repairable and not hit the pocket book as hard as doing this with epoxy. However if you're doing all the layup indoors the smell of poly will drive you out of the house! Epoxy doesn't smell nearly as much, but still shouldn't breathed for periods of time.