DIY CHEAP $250+ Amazon eBike Conversion Tutorial - 1000W 48V Front Hub Kit. TORQUE ARMS SUGGESTED

[@ridefast0]

Hi - when you want to solder a joint between power wires, its a good idea to cut the wires to different lengths so that the two parts of the joint are not next to each other. The heatshrink can be a dodgy insulator if you push the two soldered joints together under sleeving, but if you shift one solder joint by a couple of inches along the wire then each solder joint is next to undisturbed insulation on the other wire. If the solder joints are adjacent, then sharp edges from your solder joints could cut through the heat shrink to make a short circuit, and there isn't any fuse!

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks for the tip!

[@ronb6182]

You said it better than I could word it. That's a good practice when splicing wires. I would stagger it about 2 inches. Then the wire will lay nicely together. 73

[@ronb6182]

​@@ColinLeunga fuse is a smart idea. Most auto type fuse will work nicely. 73

[@ronb6182]

I wonder if this would work on an adult tricycle. I would have to measure the front wheel. 73

[@wesxwren]

Damn great advice brother. Someone knows their stuff 👍🏼

[@lazybbones]

I finally found one that works. My mistake was, not ordering mine from Amazon like you did. Got my third one from Amazon, and oh, what a difference! The controller actually had all the connections, a better design for connecting the battery, a very well written instruction book, and it actually goes about 37 mph max, as opposed to 6. Very glad I found this video!

[@ColinLeung]

I'm glad you got one that works! 37mph is fast

[@armanakter4500]

can you attach the link to the one you purchased

[@lazybbones]

@@armanakter4500 hope this helps. You'll need to buy the battery separately www.amazon.com/AW-Electric-Bicycle-Powerfuwww.amazon.com/AW-Electric-Bicycle-Powerful-Conversion/dp/B00YBWA5VC?pd_rd_w=AnqBH&content-id=amzn1.sym.d6de0d9a-b966-4e97-9c0f-b9688b6db068&pf_rd_p=d6de0d9a-b966-4e97-9c0f-b9688b6db068&pf_rd_r=4JVFHH7V4E1HGW725EWP&pd_rd_wg=ZLCsF&pd_rd_r=b3d62d2e-3b82-4cb9-8739-d8cdf170fb45&pd_rd_i=B00YBWA5VC&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_m_grid_dv_rp_0_1_ec_tl-Conversion/dp/B00YBWA5VC?pd_rd_w=AnqBH&content-id=amzn1.sym.d6de0d9a-b966-4e97-9c0f-b9688b6db068&pf_rd_p=d6de0d9a-b966-4e97-9c0f-b9688b6db068&pf_rd_r=4JVFHH7V4E1HGW725EWP&pd_rd_wg=ZLCsF&pd_rd_r=b3d62d2e-3b82-4cb9-8739-d8cdf170fb45&pd_rd_i=B00YBWA5VC&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_m_grid_dv_rp_0_1_ec_t

[@ColinLeung]

@@armanakter4500 Unfortunately the one I purchased is no longer available. Here's a link to a similar product amzn.to/46cfWpf

[@Rob337_aka_CancelProof]

21:29 if you're looking to make sure that you have a good waterproof connection you can easily slice some Thin slivers off a hot glue stick and after putting the heat shrink around the wire Slide the slivers of hot glue inside before you heat it and it melts the glue at the same time the tube shrinks and squeezes out all the excess to make a nice waterproof seal

[@ColinLeung]

That's a great tip! Thanks for sharing

[@benbraceletspurple9108]

You're correct 19:12 you need that special washer to match into the fork to prevent it from sliding around.

[@scubatrucker6806]

Cool video. I been wanting to do this to mountain bike and been nervous about tackling this project but after watching this video I think I can achieve this project. Thanks man.👍👍

[@ColinLeung]

Awesome. I'm glad you found it helpful

[@themanbrodude]

Did you end up doing it?

[@scubatrucker6806]

@@themanbrodude no I haven't yet

[@jasperoliger]

For those wondering the kit plus battery now comes out to over 500 dollars on Amazon

[@anakinskymonke3670]

Bruh

[@Kodico]

@@ebkbk9902 yeah but adding a battery will come out to about $500

[@bobblake1004]

​@@Kodico which kit and battery?

[@Kodico]

@@bobblake1004 I got the 1000w 48v voilamart kit with the 48v 14ah viset battery both from Amazon and everything came out to about $500

[@bobblake1004]

@@Kodico how is it so far? Any issues? What's the top speed and range of 1 full charge?

[@coxyofnewp]

The reason for the washer to go against the outer nut with the slightly bent over clip - Is to hold the nut and to stop it coming loose ! If anyone gets this kit please make sure to get washer to fit in correct place to stop wheel nut coming loose.. Just a heads up for you.. If it conflict with nut to stop you doing nut tight, bend it out of way and then bend back over after nut tight..

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks for your input!

[@kingaetheral]

Only video for this kit thanks watched it the whole way through really good explanation if how to set it up 10/10

[@ColinLeung]

I appreciate the comment!

[@ZebbMassiv]

I've had one of these kits on my bike for 8 years now. Even with a steel frame, I've already went through two frames that cracked in half right at the forks. The torque loosens the forks. Good idea is to reneforce the frame with that special fiber tape that hardens in water.

[@ColinLeung]

Sorry to hear that. Thanks for the suggestion!

[@Flineki]

That's a good idea. Not an electric but one of those 80cc kits, I had built one and a couple months later after frequent riding, bolts started to come loose from not using Loctite. I chased them but I still ended up wrapping my chain tensioner up into my spokes because the hardware was shaken loose. Completely destroyed my back rim. I cant wait to get my hands on one of these electric kits, a lot less moving parts which means less possible problems. I'm still going to Loctite anything I don't want to fall off lol. I don't think you can use those motorized bicycles in most City's anymore unfortunately. Id like to have one of each.

[@jjmcwill1881]

That's a bit alarming. I bought two torque arms to reinforce but I'm wondering if I should just install this on the rear? It's billed as front wheel can I put it on rear?

[@kevindelaney6836]

Great video especially like the part where the Female plug was put on to the battery for safety reasons very smart way to do it

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks Kevin!

[@casper_42O]

Your the only person I've seen actully stops at the stop signs on a bike 😄

[@ColinLeung]

lol. I don't want to upload incriminating evidence online. A dude got arrested for posting himself speeding on the freeway.

[@casper_42O]

@@ColinLeung ayo you know what my Boi I respect that got a smart head on ya shoulders. Anyway you ever mess with gas kits or just electric?

[@ColinLeung]

@@casper_42O I installed a 50cc gas kit on a bike over 15 years ago. It was difficult to start with the choking mechanism, and required mixing gasoline with 2 stroke oil. Electric seems easier

[@casper_42O]

Yea man I want the ebike kit but only got Gbike kit money lmfao ughhhh

[@ColinLeung]

@@casper_42O The gas kits may have gotten better since I last installed one

[@tcap7917]

Sporadic heavy load is ok but this is where you'll have failures if it's allowed to heat up. Inatiquit wire and connector sizing for the loads. Cheap components in the controller. Don't put it in a bag if you will ride continuous beyond 50%. Also...Those brakes weren't designed for those speeds or extra weight.

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks for the feedback, T Cap!

[@marthamryglod291]

@@ColinLeung if brakes are not good enough, I found Shimano deore, or XT to be a huge improvement. I did that upgrade to my motorized bike years ago. Won't work great in the rain, but that's all v brakes.

[@ColinLeung]

@@marthamryglod291 Thanks for the suggestion!

[@MrDegsy69]

@@ColinLeung you are getting a lot of squealing from the V-brakes. It sounds like they need the brake blocks either cleaning, readjusting or replacing. The rim may also be contaminated with oily road slick so a good scrubbing with isopropyl alchohol would help out here. Those comments about the brakes being underpowered are also true. You should ideally consider a better quality aftermarket rigid steel fork upgrade with a disc brake mount to take hydraulic brake calipers. That is if the motor hub has disc rotor mounting bosses to allow for this. A 1000 watt motor hub is considered to be quite powerfull for a front wheel conversion and it would definitely benefit from the extra stopping power an hydraulic disc brake would bring.

[@ColinLeung]

@@MrDegsy69 Thanks for the tip. I ended up passing the project on to someone else.

[@josephwoehlerii2855]

Thank you for the excellent video effort! Once used, you'll be hooked on these bikes because they're fun and the gas savings will pay for the bike in the first 6 months of use. This video is a classic reminder of why you should store your bikes inside of a shed or your home!

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks for the comment. I haven't heard of many people who have ridden ebikes going back to fully manual bikes.

[@commentingisawasteoftime7195]

You are correct about the torque arms("fork stiffener"). I blew apart my suspension forks because I didn't install one.

[@ColinLeung]

Sorry to hear that. How many watts was your front hub, and what type of fork did you have?

[@commentingisawasteoftime7195]

@@ColinLeung it was the Hilltopper summit which I think is a 750 watt motor with a 48v battery and the forks were standard air shocks with some kind of softer metal dropouts. I have ridgid steel forks on right now and I have some steel springer forks in the mail. I just threw a rear hub motor on it too

[@ColinLeung]

@@commentingisawasteoftime7195 Got it. Hopefully you didn't get hurt too bad. Wow, front and hear hubs. That sounds like a fun ebike.

[@jjmcwill1881]

​​@@commentingisawasteoftime7195This is my worry. I just ordered a front hub. I did by two torque arms to attach. Still concerned that it might not be enough.

[@beezysbeatz4924]

All you need is torque converters for frint forks. Full suspension makes the ride so much better

[@ColinLeung]

Yes, that's a good idea

[@dmannfishing7425]

Just to let you know if you didn't already but a warning on front fork hubs.Most bike forks are not designed to pull a bike like it would with a front hub motor.Could be an issue for some

[@PenzoGrittyStem]

I'm on my 2nd front hub build and you're 100% right , it is absolutely necessary to add a torque arm to the front axel/fork . I used a basic fork like the one in the video , and it popped both sides where the for holds the axel , I was actually shocked , I did some research and found that torque arms must be installed . As far as the front shox go , my personal experience was that the front shox is a good idea , solely based on impact the front fork received. The fork slightly absorbed some of the impact something I found extremely helpful and even safer , with a 1000w front hub , you hit pot holes pretty damm hard and that extra absorption can save you a fractured fork. My first build was a hardtail 1000w 48 v and it got stolen sadly , I'm trying to re create the build again because it was flawless and smoked 99% of the bikes out there . Wear a helmet and remember no cars or pedestrians are used to bikes moving that fast so its up to us to play safe amd be smart . This video helped alot with understanding wiring, thank you! , first build I had some help not this time so it's greatly appreciated.

[@iitsjustmj]

glad i watched this video, because soon im going to convert my mountain bike with the same thing... Cheaper than buying an actual fully electric bike.

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks for the comment. Let us know how your conversion goes!

[@vertikil]

1: thanks for the tutorial. i made this one about a year ago and am loving it. 2: i got a flat tire on the front wheel and i wanted to ask for advice on how to repair it.

[@ColinLeung]

Hello, I'm glad you like the ebike. You will need to remove the front wheel off of the fork, and pull the tire off like a regular bicycle. There are special plastic tire levers to do this. Google "front bicycle tire removal". Then assuming the tube is flat you can either patch the tire with a bicycle tube repair kit, or replace it. Google "patch bicycle tire, or replace bicycle tube". I hope this helps! Here's a link to levers and a patch kit amzn.to/3syOfrD

[@dalehall3110]

Ok, first you needed XT90's instead of XT60's. Also the shifters should be changed to thumb type to kinda declutter your bars. Other than that nice video, thanks for taking the time to do this!!

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks for the suggestions!

[@ianmangham4570]

Xt60s are good enough for these amps easily

[@marthamryglod291]

He's nowhere near drawing 90 amps. The anti-spark is the only reason to upgrade to xt90 at this power level.

[@ianmangham4570]

If it jolts it's one of your 3 phase wires not connected properly coming from the motor to the controller, red blue and yellow usual colors for phase wires

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks for the insight

[@sidoniasknight]

I just got a 52v 1500 kit for 269 and an 8% off off coupon so less then 269 at Amazon did not put it together yet waiting for the battery to get here.

[@ColinLeung]

Sounds like a good deal. Let me know how it goes. Ride safe!

[@plum1000]

Thanks for the video. It's got plenty of details but not cumbersome and boring. Also, it is enough to say, "I can do it!"

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks for the comment, Phil. I'm glad you found it helpful and were able to feel confident in doing it yourself

[@RemingtinArms]

Imagine getting a front and rear hub going on one controller 😮

[@ColinLeung]

That would be cool

[@lazybbones]

Well, now that I've had the chance to ride my ebike conversion, I will say I've had a blast on it, and have gone several places in town. I've only had one major recurring problem, that is not the result of any problem with the product at all, but rather due to the fact that the bike itself was not made to have this conversion done to it. I did have to jury-rig the throttle onto the handlebar, and the PAS will not work on this bike at all, which in and of itself is not so much of a problem. But the "throat" of the forks, where the wheel's axle fits, is not very deep, and the axle of the hub motor will sometimes twist itself out of the forks, no matter how hard I tighten the nuts; The motor itself has that much torque. I am struggling to figure out how to solve that one. But up until now, I have had an absolute blast on this thing. If you're thinking about doing this, I'd say go ahead and give it a shot.

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks for sharing your experience. The hub twisting out of the forks sounds a bit dangerous... Ride safely!

[@Ghost-vb4xm]

What about a torque arm kit?

[@celestiacastlephotography]

Dual steel Torque Arms failed and I was hospitalized. I had chopper steel forks front. When I was at a speed of 34mph the torque arms I had bent and the forks bent. I had PAS MAX which when kicks in... kicks in at full throttle every time so at a high speed of 34MPH the front wheel becoming the lightest had no weight to help counter the torque of the motor. If i had the same motor on the rear, the weight of my body on the dropout and the axle would be enough to keep the motor from breaking free. I had a front hub 1000w hub with 48v battery 800watt BLDC BTW Never had problems with rear hub motors. Front wheel could be a problem If your dropout and torque arms fail. Mine were all steel and torqued on with threadlock. Still failed. front hubs are cheaper but are not worth your safety.

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks for sharing your experience, and I'm sorry to hear that you were hospitalized. I hope you were able to recover well

[@davidjulseth8667]

the bike is not only to fast for that parking lot, it's wayyyy to fast for those brakes, your brave...lol

[@ColinLeung]

haha. Thanks

[@stevelouie5928]

Do you recommend just using these kits to make basically an electric motorcycle? Just hook up the throttle and don't use the pas system. Seems like it would simplify installation.

[@ColinLeung]

It's personal preference. I like having the option to pedal with assist to make it feel like I'm working out. It also extends the battery range instead of just using throttle.

[@christopherpike9907]

Great video. Very detailed without being too much ! Thank you

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks for the comment, Christopher!

[@speculate6719]

This is the best video for e bikes!

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks!

[@lazybbones]

Finally got my motor and battery. Should all components be connected to controller just to test the motor? And should the battery be completely charged, just to verify the motor at least works? I have everything plugged in ( minus pedal sensor), including LCD speedometer. Everything indicates I have power, but the motor/wheel does not turn.

[@ColinLeung]

Not all components need to be connected. The brake and pedal sensors do not need to be connected. The battery, on/off switch, throttle, and hub should be connected to the controller at minimum. The battery does not need to be fully charged, but it should be sufficiently charged to move the motor (possibly 20+%). I'd try switching the blue, green and yellow motor cables around. Oftentimes they're not colored correctly.

[@loganschelly7318]

Came here from Craigslist. This seems like a steal of a deal! (Or should I say steel of a deal ;)

[@ColinLeung]

Haha. Nice pun. I responded to your email if you're still interested in purchasing it.

[@cryptokids3760]

I found a kit for $250 on Amazon. Says 1200w and I will hook up my 52v 30ah battery to it and let you know how she works. The motor is a Pexmor

[@ColinLeung]

Sounds good. Let me know how it goes. Ride safe!

[@lazybbones]

You demonstrated mounting the battery, but you didn't talk about putting the screws on the frame of the bike. Any hints on that part?

[@ColinLeung]

Are you referring to the battery mount? I'd suggest placing the battery mount holes over the bottle screws without tightening the screws, and seeing if the battery can slide within the limitations of the frame. I think I had to place my battery mount upside down on the lower diagonal frame bar to fit.

[@lazybbones]

@@ColinLeung I get it now. Mine is an old single speed; no bottle screws. I'll hàve to put in my own screws.

[@Shaunusprowire1748]

Hi dude I've got the same set up but I haven't put on peddle assist cuz I thought u needed a led display but u never so if I install my pas will it still work can u tell me please good vid to thankyou all the best shaun look forward to hearing from u 😮

[@ColinLeung]

Yes, the pedal assist should work without the display if you're able to turn the kit on with the handlebar on/off button. You can try plugging the sensor in, flipping the bike upside down so there's no load on the wheel, and touching the magnets to the sensor to test that it works.

[@marthamryglod291]

Inflation is crazy. Prices have doubled!

[@tome4285]

13.5%

[@freehugs9223]

Sounds sick. I have the rear motor and I 💕 love it. 40 mph for 😊 sure.

[@ColinLeung]

40mph on an ebike is quick. Nice!

[@rezaarjmand7866]

I have a Recumbent bike with 20" front and 26" wheel in the back. do they make 20" power wheels? I would rather not mess with the rear wheel and the gears.

[@ColinLeung]

Yes they do. Here's an example of one. amzn.to/48znDan Rear hubs may be safer because the front forks can break with a front hub even with torque arms.

[@donaldblankenship8057]

Here in Florida, you can ride an eBike on sidewalks if it's less than 750 Watts and is supposed to be labeled that on the bike. Mine is 750 W but will never store that much power--maybe 720 W, which may or may not be displayed. It may just indicate how many lights on the side of the battery remain. The wattage gives you range. The voltage will give you climbing power or ability to carry heavier loads. 36 V is not very good for users who are fat or carry big loads. 52 V gives you a bit more climbing power than 48 V but at a $premium. We Americans always believe in "more is better." A good balance is 48 V and 750 W, because a cop could theoretically ticket you on a sidewalk with 1000 W here in FL. Check local and state laws. Live in Alaska?

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks for sharing that insightful info. I'm in CA.

[@ILoveTinfoilHats]

You're confusing watts and watt hours. Watts is the power output. 750w 36, 750w 52v and 750w 72v are all the same amount of power for climbing or accelerating. Your battery is probably not 750w watt hours, which determines range, and has nothing to do with legality.

[@EataPeachMike]

Have you ever put two hub e-motors on a bike be for and if u have do you have a video of it?

[@ColinLeung]

Sorry, I haven't and don't have a video of one.

[@davidroberts6594]

The motor kits are cheap, the biggest expense is a decent battery, which is double the cost of the motor kits.

[@ColinLeung]

Agreed

[@lazybbones]

I should also mention, that is with the bike upside down; in other words, no load on the bike.

[@pedieasuncion6875]

I just connected the green wires on the box to eachother n tried turning it on n the wheel spins forward huh but won’t turn on it just nudges forward briefly what’s the issue here , mind u I have a bafang motor n it’s all plugged in n together but the throttle jus spins the motor but the wheel won’t spin I’m lost

[@ColinLeung]

I would double check all of the connections. Try unplugging them, and plugging in the battery, controller, battery, display if you have one and throttle. You can leave the brake switch, pedal assist and lights off for now just to make sure it's all working. Ensure the right connections are made because I recall there were several green, orange and yellow plugs, and it would be easy to mix them up. I'd also contact bafang support if you can't figure it out since they may be able to provide help or replacement parts if something is defective.

[@pedieasuncion6875]

Brotherty tank u so much I was actually tooken back on the problem solver what had to be done was to program the wheel forward n bam it work I love it

[@ColinLeung]

@@pedieasuncion6875 That's great. I'm glad you got the issue resolved.

[@djrichylaurence8991]

You don't need the brake levers or pedal assist btw.

[@ColinLeung]

Yes they are optional. The brake levers should increase the brake pad life because the lever shuts off the motor when braking, and some like the option of using the pedal for assist for increased battery life.

[@LifeMyWay007]

Well at least we didn't have to wait too long before finding out your title was a LIE!!!!!!! An eBike Conversion Kit with NO BATTERY is just a Heavy Regular Bike. The ACTUAL eBike Conversion Kit here is At Least $500 and easily $1,000 depending on what battery you select.

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks for the comment. The title does state that it is a $250+ (meaning it could cost more) conversion tutorial for a 1000W 48V front hub kit. I could see how it would be misinterpreted. The description does mention that $250 is only the cost of the kit, and does not include the cost of the bicycle, and battery.

[@Zaj88]

21:05 - You can choose which way the cable comes out of the hub, depending on how you place it in the axle. Pretty nice video! What's the rated continious amps on the controller? For my own curiosity, it would've been nice to see the other side of the hub motor - I'm curious to see how it's different than a rear hub. It probably doesn't have threading for a freewheel I suppose?

[@ColinLeung]

According to the Amazon Q&A's the controller is rated 21A with a max peak of 30A. The other side of the hub is identical without the cord without threading for a freewheel. You can see it here kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqjGep2NbKllaK8 There is a rear wheel version that has a cassette installed amzn.to/3yJW1ig

[@Zaj88]

@@ColinLeung I'm sorry - I could've read the description and found that information on my own. Same goes for the other side of the hub motor - I didn't even notice that you were showing the other side of the hub motor when testing throttle - eventho I was actively looking for it throughout the majority of the video. I guess I got caught up in your video 🙂(which is not a bad thing). Thank you for your efforts - they are much appreciated!

[@ColinLeung]

@@Zaj88 No problem. It's okay. It's a lot to go through to find the amp specs and clip of the other side. I appreciate the questions!

[@mikeanderson7206]

Did your kit matter if you have cantilever brakes or V brakes like yours has? V brakes pull more cable then cantilever

[@ColinLeung]

It shouldn't matter as the brake levers/sensors connected to the controller are the same for both v and cantilever brakes.

[@suntzuwarsword1964]

Thank you colin

[@ColinLeung]

You're welcome!

[@detacheddad3396]

Your not gonna get a hub motor and battery for under $500. However bikes are cheap if not free. You can build 2-3 bikes for the price of a manufactured ebike. They do almost 30 mph and are reliable. I’ve built two so far. I like having something different plus mine are kinda stealthy unlike the bulky obvious ebikes I see.

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks for the comment!

[@bindingcurve]

Ride one up core 5 is $1200. You going to build one for $600?

[@detacheddad3396]

@@bindingcurve $700 with 52v 20ah battery. You can get bad ass bikes for next to nothing at garage sales. The hub motor and battery/usb port that straps in-between from Amazon.

[@bindingcurve]

@@detacheddad3396 something tells me those kits are what are burning down homes

[@detacheddad3396]

@@bindingcurve Well it would just be my garage

[@lazybbones]

Had to send the wheel/motor back. Not only did it not work, but there was no connection on the controller for the pedal sensor. So I sent it back, and asked them to send me another one. This new one will only go 6 mph. Should a 48 v 1000 watt motor only go 6 mph? Or should I send this one back also?

[@ColinLeung]

No, it should go the rated speed of 20 to 28+ mph. Did you try different wire combinations at the motor? Sometimes the green, blue and yellow wires are mixed up.

[@leonardwardjr800]

Well this conversion kit work on a trike?

[@ColinLeung]

It should if the wheel fits, and you have space to put a controller and battery

[@roddyandbella]

I have an old Schwinn Meridian trike and it has a 1500w motor and is wonderful to ride. Can’t get the pedal assist to work though…can’t get sensor close enough. It’s a Voilamart kit.

[@roddyandbella]

Also…is that your phone showing the speed? How are you doing that?

[@vengellesenitsuga6362]

Great video.. Soo informative... Thanks been wanting to do this...

[@ColinLeung]

You're welcome. Let us know how it goes if you do do it.

[@griffinf5781]

Hey Colin awesome video, just subscribed! And I want to ask, what do you do with the kit after the review for the video?

[@ColinLeung]

Hello Griffin, I posted the entire bike and kit without the battery on Craigslist if you're interested. I'm in the the SF Bay Area. Or I can ship the kit for less than MSRP. Thanks!

[@fjdstudios4485]

Thank you for been a live saver

[@ColinLeung]

You're welcome!

[@Mackx7]

I got mine hub motor for front wheel it was a 1500w hub motor but i was riding my bike and front drop outs just snapped out of my bike while riding idk why? I think so probably too much of torque even thou i added torque arms as well. Im scared now

[@ColinLeung]

Wow. That sounds scary. 1500W is a lot of power. Did you have a solid steel fork, or shocks with the torque arm?

[@Mackx7]

@@ColinLeung its a shocks and I added torque arms

[@ColinLeung]

@@Mackx7 I see. Did it fail where the the metal rods go into the plastic lower parts?

[@SharonBlake-iv1ff]

Your video instructions are pretty good except for the spot where your head was blocking your hands at around the 22:50 mark. I am a seasoned person looking to convert my old Huffy mountain bike into an ebike for getting around the foothills of the Cotoctin mountain in Western Maryland. Do you think this bike kit would work with the pedal assist on it. The up hill is rather steep but I can hike it without loosing my breath. Give me your thoughts.

[@ColinLeung]

Hello Sharon, if you're already able to bike the hill without losing your breath then this kit would only make it easier. You may want to verify that the battery dimensions will fit your bike frame. Do you have solid forks? Suspension forks may snap, and adding torque arms would help provide additional safety should you choose to install a front hub motor.

[@ronalddage2002]

Im building a 2 wheel drive with a 500w front 3000w rear dual battery dual throttle dual controller

[@ColinLeung]

Sounds like a fun ride. Let me know how it goes!

[@stevebeutelspacher1157]

Great video - thanks!

[@ColinLeung]

I appreciate the comment!

[@anio6865]

What is the name of those yellow housings you used for the ring connectors ?

[@ColinLeung]

Ebike wire connection box or housing amzn.to/3SXsD2e Thanks for the question

[@tenncutt]

Is having power at the front wheel as opposed to mid or rear, bad? It seems like it might possibly be a little dangerous in a turn maybe, especially a slippery one

[@ColinLeung]

I personally prefer rear or mid drives. The concern with front hub wheels is that it can bend the front fork if there is a lot of power. They created added stiffeners for that very purpose. Lower torque front motors should be safe, and an adequate fork should be safe. I'm not sure if it's more or less dangerous on a turn.

[@anythingrc4715]

A mid drive is still rear wheel drive just the weight difference I think I personally like front wheel drive because when you pedal it’s constant 2wd which helps off-road traction and acceleration Also with mid or rear drives you only have rear wheel drive whether you’re pedaling or only on motor power Weight distribution is important and front wheel drives will slip and need a torque arm under extreme acceleration You may chew tyres faster with a front wheel drive if you lose traction on pavement a lot

[@tsmi5807]

How come U did the front wheel with the power instead of the rear wheel.

[@ColinLeung]

This specific company gave the front hub to me in exchange for a review. I recently performed a rear hub install on my own bike, and intend to post the DIY video within a week. Thanks!

[@tenncutt]

Rubber spring on brake cable?? It's only a dust cover and provides no tension

[@mattwilliams6330]

Mine runs really good 👍 it sets on a Beach cruiser huffy from wally world 😊 it's been chopped into a bobber w saddle bags

[@ColinLeung]

Awesome. Thanks for sharing!

[@montereycalifornia]

Great video!

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks Passion Fun!

[@Digbick328]

Could i use a 40v 6 ah battery for this build? Or would it damage the hardware.

[@ColinLeung]

I read that you can use a lower voltage battery than the motor voltage, but it won't operate at the full potential. It's safer to use an equal or lower voltage battery compared to motor.

[@richarddrew662]

Was thinking about doing this on my fat tire bike but my forks are aluminium any tips?

[@ColinLeung]

You may be able to add fork stiffeners for added safety. Another solution is to put a mid drive, or rear hub motor.

[@megapet777]

Do you know if there is some super cheap ebike kit for 29" tire size? Also how hard would it be install only the hub motor on the original wheel? Because buying the hub motor would be cheaper than buying it with the new wheel.

[@ColinLeung]

I found a few on Amazon in the $288+ range. amzn.to/3R9cfbC amzn.to/3QOyV13 It would not be too difficult if you have experience spoking wheels. Search spoking wheel tutorial. You'd need to buy shorter spokes though since the hub would be larger, and make sure the hub opening numbers matches your current rim.

[@megapet777]

@@ColinLeung Oh I see. Well that kit seems good actually, thx. Probably will keep my bike original for a while but at some point would definitely be nice to turn it electric.

[@ColinLeung]

@@megapet777 Sounds good!

[@lazybbones]

@@ColinLeung The first one of these comes from China and you may have to wait almost two months to get it. The second one has 29" in their title, but the only size they actually have available on the website is 26".

[@ColinLeung]

@@lazybbones I'd suggest searching "29" front hub conversion" on Amazon for the latest listings. There may be more available.

[@PROTEGEtheRAPPER]

Awesome Vid, Bro!

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks!

[@markmcelheney7513]

You Really Need Disc Brakes On That Thing.

[@ColinLeung]

Disc brakes would be helpful, but the front electric hub did not have the a slot to attach a disc.

[@TreDeuce-qw3kv]

How do you get the speedometer function on your phone? Great review👍👍

[@ColinLeung]

I used a free app called Speedometer on my iphone. I'm sure there's others available

[@davidmiller4758]

is the motor and controller able to go to fifty two volts? i got a 2k watt front wheel 48 n up kit but the screeen doesnt work higher than 48, 9everything else is sweet tho and it does about 37 mph as a front wheel as they have less torquee than a rear wheel. i went front wheel due to it being a bmx build and didnt want to spreaed my rear axle. the front wheels fit great tho at 100 to 110 mm widee though and i figureed worse to worse i could always scrap the chain and put th0e front 0wheel onto the rear and buy some disc brake adapters since the hub is compatible. making it an all electric cruiser since the 13 ah battery alreaedy geets me 24 miles easy at top speed with just barely any sag or drop

[@ColinLeung]

I used a 52v battery with partial charge on this setup to minimize damage, and it ran, but the manufacture told me that it was not compatible. I read that most 48v controllers can handle 52v, but I would buy a 52v motor and controller to be safe.

[@CinematicM0vies]

I built a 500w 48v ebike and it tops out at 29 miles without pedal. I weigh about 190lbs

[@ColinLeung]

Great. Thanks for sharing!

[@CinematicM0vies]

do you think it is possible to connect a 750w controller to a 500w hub motor?@@ColinLeung

[@ColinLeung]

@@CinematicM0viesI read that it's possible, but you'd want to lower the amps on the controller to prevent burning out the motor.

[@CinematicM0vies]

@@ColinLeung AWESOME!!! THANK YOU FOR REPLYING!

[@ColinLeung]

@@CinematicM0vies You're welcome. No problem

[@IraQNid]

This is one of the cheapest designs for an aftermarket conversion kit.

[@diegudr]

Definitely a $500 bike. The $250 one will not work without a battery. But the jokes on me cause I watched the video. You also needed the bike. So I guess this should be called the DIY CHEAP $250 1/3 bike.

[@rabianiko83]

I have a ladies frame. And I'd love to have a conversion kit like this however I m not sure where the connection box would go on it... Any ideas?

[@ColinLeung]

Hello, You may be able to rotate the bag and fasten it along vertical frame tube under the seat, or diagonal tube if you relocate the battery. Another option would be to place it behind the seat, or on a rear bike rack, but you may have to extend some of the wires.

[@ricardo19851]

Amazon link is all sold out anyway to get new links ?

[@ColinLeung]

Hello, which link are you referring to? The hub kit is still in stock when I check this link amzn.to/3oGjL1o

[@theaussienurseflipper.8113]

Noice build mate

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks mate!

[@Callum22777]

I’m so confused I have red circle cable and black circle cable and battery cable 2 leads I don’t know where they all go? Please help someone I have X-go battery

[@ColinLeung]

Hello, do you have a picture of it? If it's like this listing (amzn.to/4eUahII) then one black and red wire with the plug connects to the battery. The other black and red wire will connect to the black and red cable out of the controller in the yellow box. Reference the red and black cable at kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqjGep2NbKllaK8si=pM5Baqu4i8acnBGz&t=333

[@johneastridge2786]

*nice*

[@NormanWray-hi8cu]

Hello dear sir that's ok to so far and can a 14.8 voltage smart battery work with my baizifu conversion kit ?understand 😊

[@ColinLeung]

Do you know what voltage the motor is? Typically you can use anything rated the same or less voltage, but it won't be as powerful.

[@NormanWray-hi8cu]

@@ColinLeung hello sir I don't know because the moto don't labels its clear can.

[@nickolcher1394]

Does it come with its own battery

[@ColinLeung]

This kit does not. The $250+ is only for the kit without the battery or bike.

[@lazybbones]

Hi, thanks for posting. Question, please. Are you connecting the battery directly to the motor to test it, or going through the controller? You didn't explain that real well. Also what are the specs of the battery you are using? I see the requirements listed for that motor are 17-20 ah. But I can't find a 48 volt with that rating. All I can find is a 48 volt with 13 ah. Any advice? Thank you.

[@ColinLeung]

Hello, everything plugs into the controller including the battery. The layout can be seen here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqjGep2NbKllaK8 The ah is just the battery capacity, and determines the range. 13ah should work, but you won't go as far as a 20ah.

[@OliverWoodphotography]

The battery and motor phase wires on these ebike kits always look too thin to me? Those wires need to be able to conduct at least 20Amps but they only look good for 10A max?

[@ColinLeung]

Good observation. I thought some of the wires looked thin, but didn't check what amperage they were rated.

[@dubmob151]

there's no hard and fast cutoff for wire gauge vs current capacity, it just ends up how much losses you're willing to tolerate, assuming it's not so undersized it starts to overheat. thicker is better but with cost and weight being the trade-off.

[@marthamryglod291]

I have 14g powering 500 and they're fine. Higher voltage can pass the same wattage at lower amperage so I like to run 60-72v to avoid the need for large bulky wires

[@lufknuht5960]

Less than 750 Watts for legal

[@KW-ey7fb]

Did you test how far it went?

[@ColinLeung]

Unfortunately I did not, and sold the ebike shortly after installing due to limited garage space. The range is dependent on the battery.

[@lazybbones]

I saw on here somewhere a guy had one going too slow and ordered a new controller from Amazon, and it worked a lot better. But I don't know how to order a controller that is compatible with my hub motor.

[@pedieasuncion6875]

Bro I have a bafang motor , I connected all the wires and the motor runs but the wheel doesn’t spin I’m confused can you help me at this point?

[@ColinLeung]

Hello Pedie, I just responded to your other message. You can respond there.

[@jeffreyanderson539]

Can you get this kit for a 29 inch Bike

[@ColinLeung]

Hello Jeffrey, I did not see this kit for a 29" bike and this one wouldn't fit due to brake pad positioning. They do sell 29" kits on Amazon if you're interested amzn.to/3Td3IWx

[@josephfigueroa1551]

Colin Leung is there a 29 er version kit

[@ColinLeung]

Here's an example of a 29" electric front hub. I'm sure there's others if you search google. amzn.to/47SsMtx

[@radi8752]

Without battery included ?

[@ColinLeung]

Correct. It's just the price of the kit without the bike or battery.

[@grumpy039]

Compressed air will make removing the hand grips easy

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks for the tip!

[@yothiccpapigerardo3981]

Is the pedal assist system necessary to install? or can i run my kit without it and still be fine?

[@ColinLeung]

You can run it without pedal assist. The twist throttle will still work, but there will not be any electrical assist if you pedal.

[@yothiccpapigerardo3981]

@@ColinLeung replying to comments after 4 months of posting this. ur a legend man frfr

[@ColinLeung]

@@yothiccpapigerardo3981 Lol. I get notifications on youtube of new comments, so it's easier to track, and try to address them immediately every few days.

[@yothiccpapigerardo3981]

@@ColinLeung sorry but i had one more question. what is the range of the bike with the battery you have there?

[@ColinLeung]

@@yothiccpapigerardo3981 The battery was rated for a max of 60-70 miles.

[@matthewgreen3289]

Hi Colin, great video! How can the pedal assist be turned on and off? Also, are there various levels of pedal assistance on this kit?

[@ColinLeung]

The kit did not come with a controller, so I wasn't able to turn off, or adjust the pedal assist levels. I suppose you could unplug the pedal assist sensor if you wanted to turn it off.

[@stevelouie5928]

I was just thinking it would be easy to make an ev motorbike this way. Skipping the pedal assist would make installation so much simpler.

[@ColinLeung]

@@stevelouie5928 That sounds like a great idea. Let me know if you decide to make one, and how it goes.

[@P_Five65]

i bought the same kit and kinda weird that the controller said its rated for 13 amps and 48 volts... so 13amps x 48 volt = 624 watts dont really know whats going on but for the price of 200$ cant really complains about it. looking for a 30amps controller to fix the motor rn

[@ColinLeung]

Oh nice. What happened to the controller in the kit? Or are you looking to upgrade the controller?

[@P_Five65]

@@ColinLeung so voltage x amps = watts and the controller come with it can only deliver up to 624 watts to the motor, looking for a controller that can deliver more amps to the motor also I bought the other version of the kit which you don’t have to use that yellow box to connect the motor or worry about the hall sensors if you know what I mean

[@ColinLeung]

@@P_Five65 Got it. Thanks for the clarification!

[@pedieasuncion6875]

Hi I bought a Fabang kit n I put everything together so far but I haven’t got a battery so when I get a battery will it come with the correct plug for the rim?

[@ColinLeung]

Hello Pedie, I believe the Bafang kits come with the Anderson plug connector, so you need to find a battery that has that end (may be difficult), use an adapter (easiest), or crimp or solder a new connection to match.

[@rickarndt3895]

Yeah your right about that bro. I've got a little over $500.00

[@ColinLeung]

You might be able to build it for that budget if you find a used/cheap battery and bike. There's also prebuilt ebikes in that price range, but they're usually limited to 15-18mph.

[@convictions831]

Did get battery with it

[@lazybbones]

Is it true that people's forks are actually breaking by using these front hub motors?

[@ColinLeung]

Many people have had broken forks due to excessive torque from the front wheel. Fork stiffeners help, but someone here commented that theirs failed.

[@lazybbones]

@@ColinLeung Might it be most of the time because of jumping on it too hard at start off? This is making the rear motor make a little more sense. But my bike is a single speed. All of the rear motors come with the sprocket stack for a multi-speed. Do they make one for a single speed?

[@ColinLeung]

@@lazybbones I'd assume people are taking off too quickly, which causes the fork to bend. I haven't really looked into single speed rear hubs, but I'm sure they're available if you search google. The VanPowers City Vanture that I have is a single speed rear hub, but that has a belt instead of a chain.

[@lazybbones]

@@ColinLeung Thanks for all your helpful replies. Still thinking about which way I want to go.

[@andytang462]

Instead of soldering the battery wires, could you have just used a converter?

[@ColinLeung]

Yes, or some kind of wire crimp. Soldering is always best in my opinion though.

[@andytang462]

@@ColinLeung really appreciate the reply! thank you

[@ColinLeung]

@@andytang462 No problem

[@hjvveight4074]

So if its costing over 500 why is your advertisement showing 250

[@ColinLeung]

$250 is just the ebike kit. The battery and bike will cost more.

[@moorgoon]

Was your issue with the controller getting hot anything to do with the bigger battery? Listening to those brakes I might go for the brake option as well. I’m thinking to install this on the front wheel of a tandem bike we have.

[@moorgoon]

I think the kit I’m looking at comes with a 1.75 wide tire - can you put a 1.90 tire (presently on my bicycle) on this wheel?

[@ColinLeung]

I suspect the first controller was defective because the replacement did not have an issue overheating.

[@ColinLeung]

@@moorgoon If the rim size is the same for both tires then the 1.9 should work.

[@moorgoon]

@@ColinLeung thanks - I’ll check it out