DIY Digital Camo Cerakote

[@Silvermeow]

Can you make a video on properly laying stenciles especially on a gun where theres those 90 degree angles on the slide

[@BransonCerakote]

That's easy. Either avoid it, or use small pieces and a cuticle stick.

[@SantaTheInsane]

That Taurus was on recall. drop fires were an issue. IIRC the recall started after a guy shot himself dropping his gun.

[@BransonCerakote]

The owner is a good friend of mine. I'm almost positive he had it sent in for recall, but I'll confirm with him next time I see him. Thanks for the info.

[@manuelgarza969]

The gun came out really nice. I know you specialize in gun,but is there any way you could Cera kote a golf driver .

[@BransonCerakote]

We've done a few. If you can take it off the shaft, it's much easier, if not just tape off the first 6 inches or so. Prep like normal, sandblast like normal, and coat like normal. Bake at 250 for 2 hours if metal. Remove the tape after it's tacked out.kzbin.info/www/bejne/q2mlZZ2MdsSVnJY

[@Todd66]

I really wish I had not seen this video. That pistol at the end looked really good. Camo is cool, digital camo even more so. I can see now this is something I am going to have to try. Nice job on the video. And a super thanks for putting helpful DIY videos and products out. That’s just awesome.

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help! Jump right in. If it doesn't turn out the first time, sand it down and try it again. :)

[@Silvermeow]

When you bake are you taking out all the insides? Also it looks like you left the sights on the gun, do you just put tape over the reticle and leave those on?

[@BransonCerakote]

All pins and springs have to be removed. Depends on the customer. These were painted sights, so the customer opted to have the sights themselves match, and go back with sight paint and put in a green and two red. Those are conversations you have with the customer.

[@Silvermeow]

@@BransonCerakote have you guys found a safe way to coat and cook night sights? Also I coated my XDM twice and both times when reinstalling the sights the coat scratched alittle, I know XDM are famous for being hard sight pushes but is there a technique I'm missing to it? They were night sights so I assumed they couldn't be left on

[@BransonCerakote]

@@Silvermeow No. In our experience, night sites tend to dim when baked. Try masking off the area with high heat tape after the first coat, then oil the hell out of them before putting them on. Issues like that are why we no longer offer bench services.

[@Silvermeow]

@@BransonCerakote what do you mean by "try masking the area off with high heat tape"?

[@BransonCerakote]

@@Silvermeow Before sanding, remove the sights, mask off the area they sit in, sand, spray, bake, remove the tape, reinstall.

[@v3ck1n]

Hello, I'd like to apply this pattern in an ice blue/grey/white scheme onto my Gameboy Color. Do you have any tips for working with plastic as opposed to metal?

[@BransonCerakote]

Something like that I'd probably use C series. Wipe it down with simple green. Wipe off with wet rag. Tape off anything you don't want coated. Scuff the surface with a red scotch brite pad. Spray a base color. Wait about an hour until it's dry. Stencil. Repeat with the remaining colors. Peel when the last color has a couple of hours cure time. Let it sit for 5 days.

[@PapaMooose]

Do you have a video of you guys doing digital camo on an AR15?

[@BransonCerakote]

No, but it's the same process. We just don't get many customer requests for it anymore.

[@boostedgsr8580]

So being a refinish tech(painter) in the collision industry, the matte cerakote clear that is air dry how does that hold up vs the catalyzed matte clear?

[@BransonCerakote]

Not as well, but it's really your only option with multicolor projects. Just FYI, we only clear about half of our projects tho. Depends on the customer.

[@StevesCarnivoreDiet]

Great video thanks for all your help. What's the chances of doing a video where you do a close up on the parts as you spray them? It would help to see your spray pattern and coverage steps. For example what part you spray first on a slide and so forth. When your holding a part on a hanger how do you keep the piece from turning as you spray? That's just a couple questions that would be answered by doing a close up video of the hand gun as you spray it.

[@BransonCerakote]

I did a video where I mounted the go pro to the spray gun with a clamp mount. I didn't like it because I couldn't see where the go pro was filming, and I was afraid I was going to have the item out of frame. I can mess with it, and try a few more like that. I'll cover it in a video, but I always spray any inside area first, (inside the frame, slide, receiver, etc) because the cone and volume are way down. After that, I readjust, and just spray like normal. I have a racking/wiring/magnet video on the list, but all I do to keep parts from swinging is hook them somewhere on the bottom with a second hook I can maneuver around.

[@StevesCarnivoreDiet]

Thank you very much for your help!!

[@BransonCerakote]

Sure thing. Our power was out all day today, so I'm a bit behind, but I'll try to get a video done this weekend with some tips like that in it.

[@snowgorilla9789]

Great videos step 2 you add stencil over stencil no issues on peeling off double layers and does that increase chances of shadow overspray or is it not an issue because they are thin enough Thanks

[@BransonCerakote]

Good question. You just need to eyeball them. I've never really had an issue with that, but it if looks like there might be an issue due to where it's placed on the weapon, I'd either use a small screwdriver to seat it really well, or just move it somewhere else on the gun. In almost every project I've done, I end up moving stencils around some. It just all depends on what works. Sometimes you won't know what you have until the stencils are on.

[@tovos1569]

Hey guys, I use a couple different dental pics, one has a long curved point. I use the back side of the curve to seat stencils that overlap or may leak under with overspray. The end of the pick is a sharpened wire about .030" thick and flexible but does not cut stencil. Cheers!

[@DecotFamilyShooters]

any issues with spraying the inside of pistol slides and having that effect functionality of the guns?

[@BransonCerakote]

Sometimes on 1911's. Other than that, not in a long time. Turn the volume down. They don't need a full coat, just enough to coat the metal and give a protective layer.

[@davidshechtman4746]

@@BransonCerakote My Kimber Desert Warrior came with the 'kim cote' stuff all over the inside and on the face of the bolt. After about 1000 rounds or so it has only half worn off the bolt face. Tough stuff for sure.

[@BransonCerakote]

@@davidshechtman4746 Good to know.

[@DecotFamilyShooters]

What is the decision process for when to spray parts separate or leaving them attached/configured. I notice sometimes you leave things put together and spray, other times you take them apart. thank you for what you are doing.

[@BransonCerakote]

99% of the time, things are disassembled. About the only time I leave anything together is when the customer requests that a barrel and receiver group be left alone. What you may be seeing is the gun after the base coat is applied. Any time I do a cam pattern, I'll spray the individual pieces, tack free them, then reassemble them for the pattern. That way the pattern flows seamlessly between pieces. Absolutely! I've actually started to enjoy doing them. Let me know if you have a pattern or a tip you'd like to see.

[@BreezyBeary]

I would like to know at what temperature you ended up baking the polymer frame and the steel slide for the final cure. I know a polymer frame you would bake around 200 and steel is recommended at 250 or 300. Do you use 2 ovens or just go with 200 for 2 hours? I hear glock frames can be baked at 250 but I have yet to try it myself.

[@BransonCerakote]

We only bake polymer at 180. Any hotter and you'll eventually warp something. We bake almost all of our H series metal at 250 for two hours. There's no difference in hardness between 250 for 2 and 300 for 1. The only difference is the hour. Where that extra 50 degrees matters is with some of the brighter colors. A lot of them max out at 250, and will burn at 300. Cerakote has the max bake temps on their page under the Tech Sheets tab. We do have two ovens, but with one all you do with mixed substrates is, bake everything at 180 until tack free (no longer sticky). Take the metal out, leave the poly in, bake for 2 hours. When that timer goes off, take the poly out, put the metal back in, and run the oven up to 250. Bake for 2 hours, and you're done.

[@bgriff2517]

Do base coats get fully cured? I’ve seen some people fully cure (not the 20 min tack free process) a base coat then apply stencils and additional colors. I read that you just bake to tack free then apply additional colors.

[@BransonCerakote]

If you bake the basecoat completely, then apply more Cerakote after, it will eventually fail. Cerakote will only stick to soft cured Cerakote, which is why you only tack in between layers. BTW, 20 minutes for tack free is likely way too long.

[@eddiesironworx6831]

Hey John, what type of vinyl machine do you use?

[@BransonCerakote]

We have Roland cutters. They are fairly expensive, but we have to have high end cutters for cutting inventory. A cricut would work fine until you could justify moving up to something like a Titan from US Cutter.

[@eddiesironworx6831]

@@BransonCerakote I came across your video on the cutters right after I questioned you. Thank you for getting back to me.

[@BransonCerakote]

@@eddiesironworx6831 No worries. Any time.

[@joelmyers2026]

Hey John, Do you leave all the stencils on until the curing is done or do you take them off before the final bake?

[@BransonCerakote]

Once we've applied the last color and air cured for 15 minutes, we put the whole project in for about 20 minutes at 180 to set the sheen. At that point, we peel the stencils for a couple of reasons. They come off really easy when they are warm, and if there's a mistake where a project needs to be redone, it's still soft baked, and sands easier than if it's hard baked.

[@teamevosurfcasters]

Would love to see the Damascus stencil process even just a demo.

[@BransonCerakote]

It starts with day drinking.... We don't get a lot of customer projects for it, so it may be a while. Use transfer tape, go slow, use tweezers.

[@teamevosurfcasters]

@@BransonCerakote For a black Damascus do you recommend laying back and a grey over that?

[@BransonCerakote]

@@teamevosurfcasters Depends on the customer, but I'd probably go with something like Bright Nickel for the base, and Armor Black over it.

[@Todays-Top-Story]

What program do you use to design camo? I want to make a completely custom one and can’t decide on what program.

[@BransonCerakote]

We design everything in Corel Draw.

[@carlosperez-yv6hg]

Do you have to readjust the spray gun for the las 2 coatings? Or do you just spray at a faster speed for a thinner coat?

[@BransonCerakote]

I set up the same way regardless, but the follow on coats are a bit faster. When I'm doing a basecoat, I look for that nice solid wet coat that I know will be 1-2 mil. The follow on coats are only heavy enough to cover what's underneath.

[@carlosperez-yv6hg]

@@BransonCerakote niceee thank you so much, wasn't especting a reply since the video is 3 years old 😂, nice work!!!💪💪💪

[@BransonCerakote]

@@carlosperez-yv6hg I try my best to get to them all.

[@tbone816]

John I just wanted to say thank you for taking time out of your day to help those of us spraying Cerakote at home. Your videos have been very helpful! I use H-series pretty much exclusively. But what I've noticed is when I use multi layer stencils I end up with hard crisp edges but I also end up with different coating levels. So at the end of my projects you can feel and sometimes see the different heights from color to color. Is there a fix for this? I'm using an Iwata eclipse airbrush to apply with.

[@BransonCerakote]

You are spraying too thick for your follow on coats. It's a common problem. A lot of people lay the stencils on, and feel like they have to cover up the yellow of the material. Your base coat is the only coat that needs to be at the .1 mil. That layer is your protective layer. The rest of the layers after that will be thinner, and are basically ornamental. You only want enough to lay down a wet layer. Often times it will look like there's not enough, but once it air cures, it will be fine. I get this question enough that I have a video planned for this topic coming up. Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!

[@kraigschoenherr5468]

Are you putting on lighter coats because since are spraying 3 colors?

[@BransonCerakote]

Sort of. The base coat is the only one that is 1 mil. Everything after that is just ornamental, and only needs to be heavy enough to cover the color underneath.

[@SBSRIVERA]

Awesome job on the hand gun, keep up the great videos

[@BransonCerakote]

Thank you. I have 8-9 more ready for editing. I think I've figured this stuff out, lol.

[@aquiespantanmucho]

wich color is better to use first, the dark colors or the bright colors ?

[@BransonCerakote]

I usually start with the lightest color, then go to the medium, then the dark.

[@ThaOklahomies]

How long do you put in oven between coats ?

[@BransonCerakote]

Until it's tack free. It's not really a time as much as it is a feel. Everybody's oven is a bit different. Set about an 8 minute timer to remind you to check the item, pop it in at 180, and leave it alone. When the timer goes off, touch it somewhere you won't notice if you leave a finger mark, and feel for stickiness. It will go from wet, to tacky, to dry. As soon as it's dry (tack free, tacked out), pull it out of the oven, let it cool, and spray your next coat.

[@MyM0STYLE]

How bifficlt would it be to do auto brake calipers?

[@BransonCerakote]

Aslong as they are degreased completely, it shouldn't be a problem. I'd recommend C series, Elite, or Glacier if you have a way to polish them.

[@AmberCarolineJavonta]

What type of curing oven are you using?

[@BransonCerakote]

I bought mine off of eBay from a company I wouldn't refer to anyone. Tedsfabrication out of PA sounds like a good resource.

[@AmberCarolineJavonta]

Branson Cerakote thank you

[@gateaccess818]

excellent content, thank you!

[@BransonCerakote]

Glad to help. Thanks for watching!

[@monsta21cb]

i really like your videos they help out alot

[@BransonCerakote]

Thank you for watching!

[@frankpineda1832]

I love your work, good job 👍

[@BransonCerakote]

Thank you sir!

[@snowgorilla9789]

Thanks for explaining

[@BransonCerakote]

Absolutely. If you have issues, shoot me a call. My number is on our website.

[@ChoochContrino]

Thanks John

[@BransonCerakote]

Absolutely!

[@newerest1]

sooooooooooooo nice

[@BransonCerakote]

Appreciate the feedback!

[@cmacnnm1978]

Skulls..video on skulls or yoda..

[@BransonCerakote]

We have a video on skull camo.

[@travisperry6269]

🎉❤

[@BransonCerakote]

Thanks!

[@pasqualemassaro1210]

Wife wants to match her uniform, i want skulls, skulls ,skulls please

[@BransonCerakote]

We have the stencils. :)

[@mapeter8873]

Wear your mask

[@BransonCerakote]

Thank you for your concern.