DIY GE Profile Dishwasher dead, no lights, no sounds -- troubleshoot & repair (GDT535PSJ6SS)

[@AlwaysHopeful87]

Thank you! I was just about to order a new UI, but didn't after watching you tug on the wires. I tugged on mine and the DW came back to life. Thanks.

[@KentForrest]

I sometimes think these GEs have ghosts. Good luck.

[@hull39]

Bravo!!! I had exactly the same problem described in this video and used your method to fix it. Thank you so much. You are great!!!

[@KentForrest]

That's exactly why I do this. I've been helping by KZbin so many times. Just trying to pay it forward.

[@coreylewis2304]

Thanks! You saved me hours of time! I had the Same exact issue.

[@seanlefever5874]

Exact same problem and by pushing the wires back into the pin solved the issue. Thank you! 5 minute fix

[@CapnSoap]

Interesting. I’m here because mine began working intermittently and a tech came out and replaced the board you mentioned at the end. Asshat over tightened the panel screws too so now I can’t get back in there. Thing worked for 6 months before returning to intermittent functionality. Thanks for the video.😊

[@trapskeetfly]

Thank you for this video. After watching many other videos but did not fixed. I almost bought control board then i removed low voltage connector and wagged and put it back then light came on. It was simple wire connector issue save 100$ +!

[@juliejaeger2356]

Successfully "adjusted" connector wires two times. But no longer works. Hardly ever used the darn thing either. I think it was "programmed" to fail after just 5 years. (So glad I didn't buy the extended warranty.)

[@juliejaeger2356]

Love this. Tugged on connector by the pins and systems normal! I'm so happy!!! (One less headach to deal with lol.)

[@user-zl3ng5tx9f]

How do I do this? I’ve plugged the plug in multiple times and pulled on the wires. Should I be using pliers or anything?

[@juliejaeger2356]

@@user-zl3ng5tx9f Just a temporary fix unfortunately. But, if possible, you may want to unplug dishwashed and plug back in. Or turn the circuit breaker off then back on after a minute or so. (That worked one time.)

[@dexterjones9065]

Thanks!

[@christianl5877]

This video is very helpful! Do you have a video of replacing the wiring harness?

[@TheNYgolfer]

From what I gathered , if the control board is rectangular in shape (as yours is), it's the newer version board which no longer uses different blink rates for diagnostics purposes. It only has one blink rate (rapid flashing), which indicates the board is receiving 120VAC input and outputting 14VDC. That's all that means. It does not mean the board is "good" all around. For example, it could have a bad relay that controls the heating element , yet the green led is flashing rapidly. So technically, if the light is blinking rapidly, you don't have to measure for 14VDC or 120VAC. The flashing light says you have both present. I wouldn't trust it though..lol If the led is not lit then the control board is either bad or has no power going to it.

[@KentForrest]

What you're saying matches up with what I've observed. So I believe you are correct. Sure would be nice if the technical manual for the dishwasher model number had been updated to reflect this.

[@kiakovidis]

Thank you for the video. Having the same issue with my GE dishwasher. I decided to replace the harness but having difficulty identifying the correct PN to order. If you still have this information, can you please share?

[@paulg.5997]

Before you all go this far fown the rabbit hole, please try unplugging the connector from the bottom of the control panel that leads to the upper touch panel. Clean with CRC electronic spray cleaner (both male and femsle ends) and replug it in. This connection leads to intermittent power issues with this model.

[@user-me8tq2qb2e]

My experience was same

[@jeffmay8932]

Same exact issue with mine. Thanks to your video i had it running in just a few minutes. Any idea as to what connector to get so that i can replace it and not buy the entire harness??

[@KentForrest]

I went the harness route. The parts diagrams typically don't identify the connector part numbers (just the harness), and I went the easy/sure route.

[@c-ho1165]

Usually I have found when that board blinks rapidly it's the UI.

[@KentForrest]

Perhaps the tech writer screwed up and that is what the book was supposed to say.

[@ChasingRyann]

@@KentForrest I got fast blink and no voltage so maybe its kinda a catch all - something broke - dummy light.

[@KentForrest]

@@ChasingRyann the book is very clear how that light is supposed to function. But mine sure didn't work the way they said.

[@isidro10375788]

I had the same problem, I turned it off and on 10 times and the problem was solved.

[@izzyp5713]

This is one of the better vids on this same issue I am having. I am getting 13.5v out of the control board. Also getting 13.5v to the latch switch. But still nothing at the control UI. Is the next step taking the door apart? Or replacing control board? Is there a way to reset the board?? Thank you for this vid.

[@KentForrest]

I'm trying to follow along with your situation. On my dishwasher model, in order to confirm 13.5v up at the control UI, the door already need to be apart. You'd have to get inside the door in order to disconnect the wiring to UI in order to check the voltage. So, I'm trying to understand your situation.

[@izzyp5713]

@@KentForrest At the latch on top of the unit where it locks closed, there is a 3 wire plug to that latch. On the diagram you showed, that 3 wire plug comes off the 5 pin plug off the control board. I'm getting 13.5v out of the board, and also getting 13.5 from the 3 pin connector at the latch. Still nothing on the UI. We are calling this a complete loss, but thought I'd try anyway. My controls are on the outside of the unit, but the control board is the same. I may try to take the face off the UI.

[@KentForrest]

@@izzyp5713 it does sound like your UI is toast. But to be certain you'll need to confirm 13.5v at the connector pins on the harness that connects to the UI. If you need to take the door apart it's easy, just extra time, but nothing difficult.

[@regpeeler5509]

What is the red piece that you have looks like a edge between the door and the washer?

[@KentForrest]

If you mean at around 6:40 it's just a trim tool -- what you use to remove plastic trim panels when working on a car -- that I grabbed from my tool chest to keep the door propped open.

[@regpeeler5509]

@@KentForrest gotcha thank you

[@regpeeler5509]

@KentForrest looks like mine is the UI user interface. Had 120v AC and the 13.5V DC ACROSSthe 2 and 5 pin. Getting ready to watch the video on how to change that. It looks intense!!! 😳

[@KentForrest]

@@regpeeler5509 if you're mechanically inclined it's not bad. Key thing is taking your time separating the various plastic pieces and parts. Make sure you disassemble and reassemble in the proper order and be careful not to force and break any of the plastics or their tabs. When you've completed this once, doing it again is easy and fast. It's just that first time learning how everything snaps together and comes apart.

[@regpeeler5509]

@KentForrest thanks for the pointers!! Oddly enough....so my dishwasher was installed where I can unplug from a receptacle. I unplugged it and plugged it back in of course to perform trouble shooting. After I was done troubleshooting, I unplugged, and took the extra time to clean under there. Hehee, took a while and after I was done I mounted the MC board back, fastened the box back where the 120volt wires were. When I plugged dishwasher back up, it came on!!!!! I said, WHAAAAT!?? I recall another video saying that it happened to them and after a few cycles DW coded a 182 which I think is the UI board to be replaced. Gonna let this ride like it is til it shuts down again. Thought would share that. Least I could do sense you shared with us. Thanks!!

[@gohdux]

What about dilethium

[@joannwold4953]

Random beeping; eventually upper panel dead. Dishwasher dead. I toggled the circuit breaker and eventually dishwasher started. Random beeping continued; eventually all dead; The appliance man replaced the main control board after doing the initial diagnostic you demonstrated in video. However, random beeping continued and eventually after several weeks, the dishwasher upper panel was dead again. Toggling the circuit breaker did not make a difference. Electrician came and checked the circuit board and all is good. Appliance guy came and said Random beeping continued. 10 days later the upper panel is dead. I toggled the circuit breaker and then dishwasher worked. QUESTION: If circuit breaker is okay (per two electricians) , why if I toggle it does it sometimes 'jolt' the dishwasher to start working? After watching your video, I am leaning more toward the UI panel being bad but did not want to call back the appliance guy until I had answers as to why occasionally toggling the circuit breaker it can make a difference. Ideas? Thank you

[@KentForrest]

Not being an electrical engineer I can't intelligently articulate the "why" but I will tell you from years of experience as an electrician and a DIY appliance guy that when the boards are "glitchy" then depriving them of power can reset the glitch. For a while. Similar to how when your PC or phone freezes you can reboot. If your wifi goes out the cable company will usually have you unplug and replug your router. The "hard reset" as it's called often can get electronics working again. The fact that this IS happening for you I believe rules out anything wiring or harness related in your case and does point to the boards.

[@cindylu676]

May I know how much is it to replace the main control board? My dishwasher was having random beeping and eventually dead as well.

[@KentForrest]

@@cindylu676 for a do-it-yourselfer, boards can cost $50 to $200 depending on your exact dishwasher model and how good of a deal you might find on the internet for the needed part. If you hire someone else to repair the unit, it will cost significantly more.

[@tuvoca825]

If the manual says replace the main... probably a good idea. At least warn the customer if you are going to try not to so that if you end up doing it later... they don't get too angry.

[@ChasingRyann]

Where do you get the diagrams?

[@KentForrest]

I was able to find the GE tech service manual online for my model.

[@gohdux]

How embarrassing foe GE to make a unit with the same problem for so many people. Are appliances just throw at this point. Any component is going to cost you a 100 bucks and if you can’t fix it yourself you are probably a third to a half of buying new

[@KentForrest]

If you don't learn to self repair many appliances now will need replacement in 4-7 years. My home had brand new appliances installed when I moved in July of 2018. I've made repairs to dishwasher, microwave, clothes washer, wall oven and refrigerator. All name brand appliances. None of them low end models.

[@gohdux]

@@KentForrest I tried replacing a hundred dollar circuit board and nothing changed

[@KentForrest]

@@gohdux frustrating when that happens. I spent time and money replacing the main control board because the technical manual says that's what you need to do if the diagnostic LED is blinking rapidly. That turned out to be completely bogus information. With a brand new MC I still had the rapid blink plus all the same symptoms. It was rather frustrating. But I learned to ignore the diagnostic LED and just test each component for voltage and function.