DIY GoPro Steadicam Version 2: Step-By-Step Build How-To

[@xXShredder283Xx]

Just finished up mine and works great. Thank's for sharing your build! I made a few modifications that I thought would enhance the use of it. I made a 2 handed grip instead of just a single handed one. I tried out the one handed grip and liked it but thought I could make it smoother by having a 2 handed grip. I'll post pictures of my build to your facebook in case you would want to test out the grip yourself. Thanks again for sharing!

[@GodsCountry]

Great! I'm glad it worked well for you. I'm interested in seeing the two handed grip.

[@GodsCountry]

+Jeffrey Harrington It looks like you may have comments disabled so I can't reply to your question. I hope you get this. You could try a steadicam setup like you describe but the steadicam doesn't work great when there is a lot of wind. I think you would be better served by one of the self leveling mount designs that I've built: Check these videos out: GoPro Self Leveling Mount: Version 2 - Overview and Sample Footage and the build video here: GoPro Self Leveling Mount: Version 2 - Step-By Step Build . It seems like on a recumbent bike you would just need the camera to stay level to the ground (tilt left/right). You don't need the forward/back or rotational aspects of a steadicam.

[@IJ_uk]

Hi. Just to let you know I've built my steadycam based on your design and instructions. Not tested the video yet, but I can rapidly move it backwards and forwards with no swinging when I stop. Thanks for your help.....

[@GodsCountry]

Great! I'm happy to hear that! Thanks for letting me know.

[@Generikid]

How bout just get a HUGE PVC pipe and cut it into half and make it thin?Would it work the same?

[@GodsCountry]

Swift Blake That might work. It sounds like something that I would try if I already had the material. You could probably shape it with some heat if you needed to. Your weights will be different but you should be able to figure it out.

[@Gordi4568365]

Great instructional video, this should also work for the small Hero 4 Session, I take it the rear weights are what would be used to balance out the lighter camera.

[@GodsCountry]

+Gordon Crawford Hey Gordon! Yes, you are correct. This will work with a Session. You just need to adjust your weights to get everything balanced correctly.

[@LevyCarneiro]

Why do you use 2 bearings? Stability? Thanks!

[@GodsCountry]

Levy Carneiro Hi Levy! Thanks for the comment. Yes I believe that two bearings will hold the shaft more securely. Less wobble in that area makes everything else work better.

[@LevyCarneiro]

God's Country thank you for answering and for the great video!

[@BadPaddy2]

Clean, clear video. Part numbers a plus. Works great! Thanks!

[@GodsCountry]

James Marshall Thanks James! I appreciate the feedback!!

[@zcarenow]

any demo of your vids using this? thanks.

[@GodsCountry]

Hi Z, Thanks for the comments. Here are a couple demo vids for you: DIY Steadicam VS Grip Mount Demonstration - Which Is Smoother? and DIY GoPro Steadicam Version 2: Demonstration Video .

[@ecocentrichomestead6783]

For the joint on the hand grip.... I'm thinking that the similar adapter for ratchet and socket set could also be used.

[@GodsCountry]

It is the same type of joint but those are usually made to be tight. For this purpose we want it as loose and frictionless as possible. Not sloppy but loose. With the plastic construction, you can drill out the holes to get the desired looseness.

[@seanbradleynoonan]

Thank you very much I'm in the process of building one myself I'll let u know how it goes .

[@MrCanniccioni]

Wow thank you so much for this video! All the measure and info to get specific parts. Gonna try to build that this week-end. Hope it turns out as good as yours

[@GodsCountry]

No problem! I'm glad it was helpful.

[@binomonkey]

Thanks for this tutorial. I'm a tinkerer and just love little projects and I'm looking forward to creating a few of these steady cams... My question is, using these arms to secure the gopro and such leaves much room for balance error does it not? I mean if you slightly fasten on a wrong angle, you would have balance issues as the gopro now sits differently. I'm guessing these are the specifics you didn't mention as that would require a longer video? The solution if using these gopro mounts then would maybe be marking the angles on the gopro arms at their pre-balanced positions. I think a permanent mount would be a better solution ...then balance your steady cam based on that position.

[@phi_0815]

Is the steadicam rotating 360° on the grasp??

[@chris311281]

I have decided to try this build, as it seems the best throughout, compared to the other DIY versions. I got a few things I wanted to clear up before building one, tho. Does the curvature matter, or the point is really to just get the weight directly under the camera to get the best center of mass? also, Does the width between the hangle hole and the tripod mount screw hole matter, or the goal is just to get the camera exactly above the handle, for center of mass again? Pretty much just interested if the sizes and lengths matter greatly or as it looks to me, you just have to get the best center of gravity to hold the camera steady All in all, your build is well designed! Great work :)

[@GodsCountry]

+Chris Nõmmann Hey Chris! Thanks for the compliments! I'm glad you're going to try this build. The exact curvature and hole spacing does not have to be exactly like mine unless you are trying to replicate the exact same weight layout that I have. If you change the frame curvature and/or reposition items on the frame, your balance/weights will end up being different than mine. Even if you build it as close as possible to my specifications, you will most likely have to do some fine tuning of the weights. You are correct that the camera needs to be above the handle pivot and the bottom weight directly below the handle.

[@chris311281]

God's Country That's Exactly what I wanted to know, if the design allows to make some personal adjustments which in return can be corrected by some tuning of the weights. Great thanks for the reply! ps, I'm using washers for the weights which have a bigger hole in the middle than the crew I'm using to tighten them and a smaller washer to keep the screw head from sinking in which allows me to fine tune the weights in all directions about half a centimeter. Therefore I should have an even better all-axis tuning possibility.

[@zhekagrune6986]

Very cool idea to make it out basic materials. Thx for sharing! ! !

[@GodsCountry]

Zheka Grune Thanks Zheka! I'm glad you enjoyed it.

[@TheMOXFilms]

I have same bar stock, but in steel... do you recommend sticking with the aluminum or trying the steel for added weight?

[@robthorn3910]

I would have liked to see it completely assembled and in your hand, just to see the balance and motion of it.

[@GodsCountry]

I think this is what you're looking for: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lZDKioF5pZKgn7M

[@alessandro8953]

Amazing tutorial and stabilizer!! Well done

[@GodsCountry]

Alessandro Tenconi Thanks Alessandro! I'm glad you liked it.

[@jasonhead6377]

Alright, this is probably a dumb question, but I am building one and everything is going great, except I can't get the ball joint into the half shaft or the stub axle. I'm using the same ball joint thing that came in the package with the half shaft, but it is just seemingly impossible to put them together! I was wondering how you did it, was it just sheer force and mucle or am I missing some technique or tool or something, thanks!

[@ericmongrain6178]

GREAT TUTORIAL , THANKS FOR SHARING AND BREAKING DOWN DIMENSIONS, PARTS AND HOW TO FOR US , ON VACATION SOON AND THIS WILL BE A PROJECT BUILD FOR SURE ! ! !

[@GodsCountry]

eric mongrain Thanks Eric! Glad you liked it. Let me know if you have any questions when you're building.

[@mnburch]

Thanks for the great video. I would like to see a follow-up video of it in action. I can see how to build it, but I have no idea how to use it, or even the benefit of using it. I mean, I have a general concept of what the stabilizer is for, but how do you use it? I am in my late 60's and am struggling with shaky hands. Will this help me to take better video? Maybe post some videos you've taken with and without using your stabilizer.

[@GodsCountry]

Hi Michael. Thanks for the comment. Here is a video that I made just for this purpose: DIY Steadicam VS Grip Mount Demonstration - Which Is Smoother? . You can see that the steadicam is much smoother. The steadicam is not a cure-all though. You still need to be smooth with your hands, arms, and while walking. The smoother you are, the better. I would say that a steadicam would really help you since your hands are shaky. How are you holding your camera now?

[@mnburch]

God's Country About all I can do is use a tripod, which isn't always convenient/possible, or squeeze my elbows to my side as tightly as possible when I'm shooting handheld video.

[@GodsCountry]

Michael Burch I agree that tripods are great but not when you're moving around. I think a steadicam will probably help you film smoother but you should also look around at the different ways that people are accomplishing the same thing. I have seen some rigs that rest on your shoulders that may work for you. The good thing about the steadicam design is that it's pretty compact and light weight. I think a steadicam, when used with two hands, will smooth out your videos. Unfortunately I can't say if it's the best for your use because I haven't tried the other designs out there. Sorry I can't be more helpful than that!

[@JeffreyHarrington]

I ride a recumbent bike. I'd like to mount a GoPro or Contour camera, but I'd like it to free float. Stay level with the ground. Would a mount like this work if it was mounted to a pole or on the back of the bike?

[@StevenBaksteen]

I allmost finished mine! The only thing I need are bearings. I know that for my grip I need 19 millimeter on the outside but what size sould the inside be, I have the same traxxas joint as you.

[@GodsCountry]

Steven Klaassens Hey Steven! The steel shaft on the Traxxas half shaft needs a bearing with a 6mm hole in the middle. So the 6x22x7 bearings that I used have a 6mm inner diameter, 22mm outer diameter, and they are 7mm wide. It sounds like your grip setup will be slightly different than mine but I did see that 6x19x6 bearings are available. Let me know if you need any other help.

[@StevenBaksteen]

Tnx for the info again, I ordered them and I will let you know if I have any more questions

[@PSGERMO]

You are amazing. Thanks for sharing this awesome design.

[@GodsCountry]

Thanks! I'm glad you liked it.

[@edgarrenteria7793]

very awesome project. thank you . quick question. did you get around doing a video to see how well it works? either way i will make this it just looks cool and can be proud to say it was made by me. with your help.

[@bong9130]

Thanks for the bend dimensions, it's a huge help. So I got the parts and assembled my rig yesterday. Wondering about the front (center) weights. I understand that yours comes ~7" from the gimbal hole but when you were making this, did you just split the difference and eye-balled the middle between bottom weight and gimbal hole? Right now I need to buy bigger diameter washers since the ones I had laying around were too narrow to provide significant weight change. Once I get things squared away, I plan to paint it, and make a video for it.

[@GodsCountry]

Hey Vincent. Yes when I was originally building mine I just eye-balled the middle between the bottom weight and the gimbal hole. I wanted the weights on the very front of the steadicam. You probably already know this but the washers you want are called fender washers. Let me know how it goes!

[@sickpuppy8077]

Hi! I made this steadicam, and I just vonder how you balance it..? Could you make a video on how you did that, the process on what to think of when putting the weights on? You would make me one happy Norwegian if you did! :)

[@GodsCountry]

Hey Sickpuppy! Thanks for watching. I will consider doing a balancing video but I'm not sure I'll do it. Here are some tips. The weight of the bottom of the "rig" (steadicam and camera combined) has to be only slightly heavier than the top above the pivot point in the grip. You need it just slightly heavier so that the camera will stay upright. If you hold the grip in one hand, pull the bottom of the steadicam out to the side and let it swing to the bottom, this should be a slow swing. If it swings slowly that means the weight of the top and bottom are close. The key is the make the front and back weigh the same to prevent rotation. Top and bottom are almost the same with the bottom slightly heavier. Side to side should be balanced so that the camera sits level. If you have a chance, check out my other steadicam videos, especially this one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5rSe2V6qZt2Y9U . I talk about balancing some in there. It's just a lot of trial and error sometimes. Let me know if you have any other questions.

[@rorywim2955]

This will help a lot! If you have them, could you tell me the weight of the three groups of washers, so I can make sure I have it all balanced out? Thank you!

[@GodsCountry]

+Rory Wimberley Hi Rory. The 10 washer stack weighs about 83g. One 4 washer stack weighs about 32g. I would not be surprised if your weights ended up being slightly different because each individual rig is built differently.

[@jamesturner5796]

I've got a few questions...Can you just use skateboard bearings and could you just sticky mount the gopro to the top?

[@GodsCountry]

James Turner I don't think that you will find CPVC/PVC pipe parts that will fit the bearing and grip as well as the size that I used. The inside of the bearing needs to be a specific diameter to fit the axle shaft. The outside diameter needs to fit the CPVC/PVC correctly. That CPVC/PVC pipe size needs to be correct to fit a bike grip. I think you will be more happy in the long run if you use the size bearing that I specify in the build. I will be selling some of these parts very soon if you can wait a week or so. As far as the sticky mount goes, I have not tried it. It might work. You could try it and then peal it off if you don't like it. Thanks for the comment!

[@risco1974]

Hi I'm planning on building this but I find really hard to assemble the piece with the steel ball. Any tips on how to put it together pls. I also bought some bearings from you and a handle. Thanks.

[@GoProPOV]

Wouldn't having the bearings in the handle make it hard to do panning shots? Because if the handle spins with your body the frame will be all over the place loosely. I'm making a variation of your design and just was wondering what the benefit of them would be.

[@GodsCountry]

The bearings in the handle do make panning shots harder but they are still doable. The purpose of the steadicam is to remove your body's motion from the camera and that includes rotational forces. I feel like the bearings are necessary but you might be able to get away with out them.

[@CBchannel97]

Awesome design. Thanks for the tutorial!

[@GodsCountry]

Thanks Connor! Let me know if you have any questions on it.

[@MrBlutto]

Great video. NIcely thought out, and well presented. Thanks!

[@GodsCountry]

MrBlutto Thanks!!! Glad you found it useful.

[@daveboxwell3151]

Did you look atusing a mini ballhead instead of a universal joint? What advantage does the universal joint have over a ball head? I think this would be cheaper and also just as smooth.

[@GodsCountry]

I have a couple mini ball heads but I also had the universal joints on hand when I was building my first steadicam. Other people had good success with the universal so that's what I went with. You can try the ballhead but it needs to be very low friction.

[@maxtonmcguire7512]

I'm almost finished with the construction (ran into a few snaggs along the way, i.e. the bearings) of the rig. I have a few last minute questions. 1. what size are the holes drilled to for the weights? 2. Are they steel or aluminum?

[@GodsCountry]

Maxton McGuire Thanks for the comment MM! I'm sorry but I don't remember what size holes they are. I would just buy the weights (steel fender washers) and then find/buy a bolt that fits the fender washers. There isn't much stress on these weight bolts so you don't need anything very large/heavy/strong. Then just match the drill bit size to the size bolts you buy.

[@retropyor]

Great video with some fantastic narration. On the mechanics of it, why do you have a front weight? Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but the two back weights should be in a direct vertical line, and the main weight of the camera should be directly above the pivot point of the handle, correct?

[@GodsCountry]

Roy Porter Thanks for the comment Roy. Yes, ideally the weight of the camera should be directly above the pivot point of the handle. When I built version two of my steadicam I hadn't figured out how to make that easily buildable. Since then I have used a brass 1/4-20 threaded insert in the top of the Traxxas joint. Then I inserted a 1/4-20 stud into the threaded insert, through the steadicam frame, and into the GoPro tripod adapter on top. That way the gopro is directly over the handle below. The weights on the front are just what my particular setup needed to balance correctly. Balancing these things can be the most frustrating part but it sounds like you understand the mechanics. Once you get it correct, you want to change as little as possible. I used mine a ton over the last two years but I decided that I was using my GoPro enough to justify buying a 3-axis gimbal. I still keep the steadicam with me as a backup though!

[@AirMarshallBen]

Hey there, I'm currently constructing this awesome build and what I would really love to know is, what dimensions are the washers you use in your build? I am from the UK and so we don't have 'fender washers', instead we have 'penny washers'. Also i'm assuming you balanced the Steadicam with the gopro camera mounted in place? Thanks

[@GodsCountry]

***** Hey Ben! I don't think there is a standard size for fender washers but the ones that I'm using are 31.75mm (1.25") in diameter and are around 1.5mm (.055") thick. Yes, you must balance the steadicam with the GoPro set up exactly how you will use it (battery installed, no lens cap, same housing/frame that you will use, backpack/no backpack, etc).

[@scottgrayson2327]

Is it possible to turn this upside down for top down shooting? Or would I be better off with a glidecam style, straight build

[@GodsCountry]

Interesting question and one that I haven't thought about before. I think it would be possible. You would definitely need to change the weights around a little so the camera side would weigh more than the end of the frame. I'm sorry I've never used a glidecam style so I don't know much about them. After a quick look, they appear to mount the camera on the top of the rig also.

[@RyansWorldOrder]

Awesome video - really appreciate you taking the time to help us be able to make one! You were saying during the demo video that there is a slight "sway" to the rig itself, albeit a very smooth sway, but I was wondering if I used a heavier piece of metal than the aluminum do you suppose it would help with that small issue or no? I'm thinking in terms of a windy day, I would assume a slightly overall heavier rig would be a little easier to keep it from swaying but I don't know I could be totally off. I might just build 2 since the aluminum would be much nicer and easier to carry around lol. Thanks again man!

[@GodsCountry]

RyansWorldOrder Thanks Ryan! The secret to steady filming with these is balance. If you make the frame heavier, you will have to put more weight on top to compensate. Adding a bunch of weight to the bottom of the rig will make things sway more, not less.

[@bettesteiner]

Great video! That's really useful and the finished item looks great. Thanks.

[@GodsCountry]

Thanks BF!

[@JUSTME543212345]

do u get an uncontrollable spin when you hold your Steadicam because of the smoothness of the bearing i didnt build this model i actually built the silver flyer Steadicam because i saw that video first but i noticed the rig spins to much so im looking around for a different handle setup

[@GodsCountry]

Thanks for the comment. The bearing/handle needs to be free spinning so that your hand movements don't get transfered to the camera. The spinning that you are describing comes from incorrectly balancing the steadicam and camera. It sounds to me like you need more or less weight on the front or back of your steadicam. I'm not familiar with the silver flyer design but somehow you need to adjust your front to back weight distribution. You could also do this by moving the camera position forward or back. Watch this video starting at about 2:15. I talk about balancing and weight positioning: DIY Steadicam Design and Construction Tips - For GoPro Hero 3+ and Other Cameras I hope that helps some. Let me know if you have more questions.

[@curtisbolger5224]

quick question why do you use bearings at all, Because then you can,t direct the camera to the angle left or right wise that u want it will just always freely move great video though

[@GodsCountry]

Curtis Bolger Hi Curtis. You need the bearings to eliminate the small unwanted rotational movements of your hand. If you want the steadicam to rotate you can twist the grip and it will move but if the steadicam is set up correctly, you have to intentionally twist the grip to rotate the camera.

[@tonysieber1095]

Hi, did you bend the curve part around the tank first and then bend the straight ends? Was it easier to bend the straight ends and then get the radius afterward? Thank you.

[@GodsCountry]

Hey Tony! It's been a long time since I built mine but I believe that I bent the curve first and then bent the angle. Then you can cut off any excess length that you might have on the ends.

[@WOZCINEMA]

Did you cut that 3' bar? If so, how much did you cut off? I bought the 3' piece.

[@GodsCountry]

MMA WOZ Thanks for the comment. Yes, the aluminum bar is cut off. I do not know how much I cut off but the frame measurements are in the beginning of the video and also in the video description. The flat platform is almost 5" and the curved front and bottom are 15" so I'm thinking I cut off about 16".

[@seanbradleynoonan]

quick question what size oxygen tank did u use to make the bend ? diameter

[@GodsCountry]

Sean Noonan Thanks for the comment Sean. I bent the aluminum bar around a compressed air tank that was 7" in diameter.

[@har99ley]

did i miss the length of the flat section where you mount the camera....to the bend , plus the....thanks and any over all length of aluminum as well?! ps is there any NEW and improved ideas before i start my build.....thanks Robin

[@GodsCountry]

har99ley Hi Har99ley. I believe all of the dimensions that you need are listed in the video description, in the parts list. I haven't changed the design of my personal steadicam since I shot this video. One person has used a single bearing in the handle and clamped that bearing directly into a lock-on grip. I have not tried it yet but it sounds like it would work.

[@har99ley]

God's Country Thanks I watched a second time and got the info.....duh on my part....you'll be hearing from me for parts etc........thanks again

[@GodsCountry]

har99ley No problem! Thanks for watching.

[@eduardorodenas6659]

Hey! Where did you get your bearings? I was looking at Amazon, but either they are too expensive or they take forever to be shipped. Do you have a link you could share?? Thanks, the video was great!!

[@GodsCountry]

Hey Eduardo. I bought mine from bearingsdirect.com but vxb.com has them also. The 6x22x7 size that you need for this project is not as easy to find as some other bearing sizes. Glad you liked the video! Let me know if you have other questions.

[@AGRIMOVIEemi]

BRAVO OTTIMA idea 👍👍👍

[@GodsCountry]

Thank you!

[@bong9130]

Is there any real benefit for using aluminum bar instead of steel? My local Home Depot only has steel. Great video btw!!!

[@GodsCountry]

The advantages to using aluminum are that the whole rig will be lighter and you will probably have to use less weights to get it balanced. It is possible that a steel frame might make it less likely to blow in wind and it would be harder to bend on accident. I have not had any problems bending my frame on accident and aluminum is certainly easier to shape when you're building it. Do you have a Lowes near you? That's where I bought my aluminum.

[@bong9130]

God's Country thanks for the reply! There is a Lowes around here so I'll stop by to check it out tomorrow!!! Thanks again!

[@frantisekherman9435]

Hi, where did you buy that universal joint? Can I buy it somewhere on the internet?

[@GodsCountry]

Frantisek Herman Hi Frantisek. Thanks for the comment. You can buy the Traxxas parts from towerhobbies.com and other remote controlled vehicle suppliers on the internet. The full parts list is in the description of the video. Let me know if you have any other questions.

[@GodsCountry]

Frantisek Herman Yes that is correct but you also need Traxxas part number 4953x and it doesn't look like that website has that for sale. Again, make sure and read the video description for the parts list. I don't want you to miss anything that you might need.

[@IJ_uk]

Hi. Do you have any tips about setting the weights up? I have all the parts, but I'm not sure how to work out the weights. Is there any way to work it out by balancing it on your finger in a certain place? Thanks for the great videos :-)

[@GodsCountry]

Hi Ian. Thanks for the comment. You might want to watch this older video of mine: DIY Steadicam Design and Construction Tips - For GoPro Hero 3+ and Other Cameras . It talks about balancing and camera/handle position starting around the 3 min mark. Did you build yours exactly like mine? If so, start off with the same number of weights as mine. Otherwise it's just a lot of trial and error adding and removing weights. The lower part of the steadicam should be only slightly heavier than the top so that it keeps the camera upright. If you draw an imaginary line down through the camera and grip, the front half of the steadicam should balance with the back half. If they are equal than there shouldn't be any rotation around the grip axis. Equal weight front and rear does not mean equal number of balancing weights because the front already has the weight of the bow/frame. Let me know if you need more help.

[@IJ_uk]

I did a rough quick build before I saw your video and all the weight is below. Thanks for the detailed info. I'll watch your other video and I'll let you know how I get on with it. Thanks....

[@imbasay1]

Hi I have the 3/4in cpvc coupler and of course the 3/4 cpvc pipe. Now you say the bearings should be 6x22x7 bearings. That measurement is mm for those correct? Well I have 6mm x 22mm x 7mm bearings. They don't even come close to fitting into the coupler. It seems like I am putting a very thick layer of packing tape on them to make them fit. In your video it appears as if you only had to put very little tape on the bearings. How thick of a layer of tape did you have to put on?

[@GodsCountry]

Sam McBeth Hey Sam! Thanks for the comments. You should only need 1 or 2 layers of tape on the outside of the bearing. I'm thinking that you have PVC pipe parts instead of CPVC. They say the same size on the pipe itself but in reality the sizes are very different and aren't interchangeable. CPVC is less common but still shouldn't be hard to find. It usually has a very light tan/yellow/brown color to it. Let me know if you need more help.

[@imbasay1]

Hmm not sure what happened. But I know for sure I bought cpvc. I just kept layering tape on to make it fit. But thanks for the advise. I am looking forward to getting my rig made. Thanks for posting and sharing these cool ideas.

[@83JustSomeGuy]

Do you see any downside to having the camera straight above the Trax piece using a male to male adapter?

[@GodsCountry]

No, that should work fine. The only thing is that the tripod adapters use a 1/4-20 thread and a 1/4" thread won't grip the inside of the Traxxas plastic U-joint. I used a brass 1/4-20 threaded insert in the U-joint and a 1/4-20 piece of bolt/all-thread to accomplish what you're talking about. www.buygoproparts.com/products/brass-1-4-20-threaded-insert

[@83JustSomeGuy]

They make a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter and I think that should work with the Traxxas piece I have. Just checking to see if there would be any issue before trying it out. Thanks for the help! It's a great build!

[@83JustSomeGuy]

Here, in case you decide to start selling them: www.amazon.com/dp/B01GH37HN6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3V92X91V84L5T&coliid=IROO2W673XQUL

[@GodsCountry]

Good thinking! I hope the threads are long enough. Have fun with the build! Thanks for the link.

[@kidstvchannels2035]

T.K. Archibald no.

[@Bbbranzino]

Great vid first and foremost. What would you suggest I do, or how would I approach mounting a DSLR to the top of the frame instead of a gopro?

[@GodsCountry]

Thanks BK! Honestly, I think you might want to build a rig that is a little bigger than this for a DSLR. I specifically wanted this steadicam to be small and light for a GoPro. For a DSLR you might want to build one that has a little bigger/stronger frame. You could also use an adjustable mounting platform that will let you move the camera precisely forward/back and left/right to help with balance. I have not looked at any DIY streadicam videos for DSLRs but that is what I would do first if I was thinking of building one. If you still want to move forward with building my style steadicam, you should mount the camera as close to right above the grip pivot point as possible.

[@Bbbranzino]

God's Country I see, perhaps something like curved electric metallic tubing, counterbalanced by metal washers? Although the dslr is heavy, my primary concern is avoiding a rig that gives overly-sensative side to side rotation, or a rig that doesn't have a wide center of balance so navigating corners becomes difficult. I actually recently was using my friends very-expensive "T" model steadicam, and although it was arguably professional calibur, I could not for the life of me complete any pathway that had turns or corners in it do to the extremely touchy counterbalancing. Any suggestions to that extent that could be included in my eventual homemade model? Thanks a lot

[@GodsCountry]

Berk Kiziltug I think the electrical conduit may be a good place to start. Sometimes when I design things it takes a second version to get it working really well. That's what happened with this steadicam and some of my other projects on youtube. My point is that it might take some tweaking to get your design working well. Don't be afraid to try a few different things along the way. You should go to my GoPro Gear playlist and watch the other steadicam videos that I have. There's some valuable info in there that will help you with a bigger design. I wish I could be more specific but I've never built a steadicam for a DSLR.

[@davidchandler3192]

Would a 8 by 22 by 7 ball bearing work you think?

[@GodsCountry]

The first number is the inner diameter of the bearing. The shaft of the Traxxas stub axle is 6mm so if you were to use a 8x22x7 bearing, the bearing would be very loose on the shaft. I wouldn't recommend it. You could possibly put some type of spacer in there but the 6x22x7 is a better solution. The second number in the bearing is the outer diameter so that 8x22x7 would fit the CPVC handle just fine. The last number is the width of the bearing.

[@ZeroAmplified]

Do you know if you can use the LCD Touch BacPac with the Frame Mount?

[@GodsCountry]

ZeroAmplified Yes it will. The old style Frames actually came with two frames. One for the bare camera and one for the bare camera with a bacPac attached. The new style Frame has a little metal hook that folds out of the back and holds the BacPac on. I only have experience with the older style frame. Thanks for the comment!

[@bradcook20066]

Hi there, love the concept but Im really struggling getting the balance right. Im using a Hero2+ wifi bac and the camera makes it too top heavy. Tried adjusting the washer but they just dont compensate for the top heaviness. Any ideas? Thanks Great idea, thought

[@GodsCountry]

Hi Brad. Sorry you're having problems with the balance. I don't have experience with the Hero 2 with the wifi backpack but it is probably a lot heavier than the Hero 3 that mine is set up for. You may need quite a bit more weight than I have on mine. There will be some point where the bottom finally becomes heavier than the camera on top. You will probably have to add a lot of weight on the bottom. The first thing you need to do is get it so the rig isn't top heavy anymore. Keep adding weight to the bottom.

[@tomdavies7725]

Can you tell me the measurement of the distance between the two ends of the aluminum bar (near the top and bottom weights?) Many thanks. I'm planning to build a wooden form to make the bend around while minimizing twist.

[@GodsCountry]

Tom Davies Hi Tom! Thanks for the comment. Measuring from the end of the frame behind the camera, directly down to the other end of the frame (by the bottom weights), I get 11.75 inches. Please let me know if that's not the measurement that you are looking for

[@tomdavies7725]

God's Country That looks right to me. Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes. I plan to do a wooden form and a strap clamp to bring the aluminum to the form's shape.

[@GodsCountry]

Tom Davies Sounds good. The aluminum is pretty easy to bend.

[@douglaspeel6670]

Cool! Have you started it yet? dd Sent from my iPhone

[@adadeacon9352]

Thanks for the great video. My husband and I just built it, but we find that it swings from side to side while walking around. Any idea how to balance out horizontal / side to side swinging?

[@adadeacon9352]

We just figured it out. We added more weight at the top and also raised the washers about an inch higher from the bar. We've got about 17 washers at the top and 5 at the bottom.

[@GodsCountry]

Ada Deacon Great Ada! I'm glad you got it figured out. Good work! Let me know if you have any other questions.

[@WOZCINEMA]

Only issue I have with this is the 3/4" coupler and the same 3/4" pipe (handle)? Correct me if I'm wrong but if they are the same size of 3/4", they won't fit together. I have the 3/4" coupler CVPC- and a 3/4" pipe, 6" in length. They don't fit. What am I doing wrong here?? Thanx man!!

[@GodsCountry]

MMA WOZ When you are talking about pipe plastic pipe sizes, the dimensions are more of a classification: 1" pipe requires 1" fittings, 2" pipe requires 2" fittings, etc. 3/4" CPVC pipe requires 3/4" CPVC fittings. My guess is that you have regular PVC pipe instead of CPVC. CPVC fittings will not work with PVC pipe. Their sizes are different. If possible, try fitting them in the store before you buy them to make sure. If need be, take your grip into the store to test fit also.

[@vincentroy8310]

Hey, thanks for that great video. I almost got everything to buil it, but I don't know why i'm having trouble finding a aluminium bar of 1''1/4. Do you know if it's ok if I take a 1'' or 1''1/2 aluminium bar? If yes wich one and I suppose it will change the balance of the steadicam? Last question, sorry about that, how can I know how many washer I have to put in the curvy part vs at the bottom vs at the beggining of the straigt part? Thank you very much!

[@GodsCountry]

Vincent Roy Hi Vincent! A 1" or 1.5" bar should work fine. Your weights will have to be totally different than mine though. I think I would lean towards the 1" because the wind should affect it less.

[@GodsCountry]

God's Country The weight of the bottom of the "rig" (steadicam and camera combined) has to be only slightly heavier than the top above the pivot point in the grip. You need it just slightly heavier so that the camera will stay upright. If you hold the grip in one hand, pull the bottom of the steadicam out to the side and let it swing to the bottom, this should be a slow swing. If it swings slowly that means the weight of the top and bottom are close. The key is the make the front and back weigh the same to prevent rotation. Top and bottom are almost the same with the bottom slightly heavier. Side to side should be balanced so that the camera sits level. If you have a chance, check out my other steadicam videos, especially this one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5rSe2V6qZt2Y9U . I talk about balancing some in there. It's just a lot of trial and error sometimes. Let me know if you have any other questions.

[@MichaelDelPapa]

Great Video ^_^ Well paced and very informative. Keep up the good work.

[@GodsCountry]

Thanks Michael! I appreciate that!

[@ColterRockwellM83]

I for the love can not build the joint, why didn't you show how to put it together in your video?? It's the hardest part..

[@GodsCountry]

Colter Rockwell I'm sorry you're having an issue with the joint assembly. I have heard that sticking the plastic part in some warm water will let the ears flex more easily but I have not tried it. I did not have trouble assembling mine. There are a couple of Traxxas u-joint assembly videos on youtube.

[@Pieringg]

I plan on building this sometime this weekend, and then I'll probably upload some test footage with it in the coming few months. Do you mind if I show off your design? I will put a link to this video in the description of the test footage video I upload. Thanks!

[@GodsCountry]

Hi Grant! Thanks for the comment. That would be great if you put a link in your video. I would just ask that you balance it correctly and practice with it so that you can get the feel of its full potential. Have fun with the build and let me know if you have any questions along the way.

[@Pieringg]

Yeah I'll be sure the footage looks good before I upload it. What's the best way to know how many washers to put on, or should I just play around with it until it doesn't move around at all? Thanks

[@GodsCountry]

Grant Piering If you're going to build it similar to mine then copy my washers as a starting point. From there, just add and subtract some and you'll start getting the feeling for it. If the steadicam is rotating around the grip, you need to add or subtract weight in the nose or behind the camera. If it is swinging, you need to add or subtract weight from the bottom of the steadicam. Let me know if you need more help with the balancing.

[@MrCrunchyEGGROLL]

I could not find any 1 1/4" aluminum bars. They only came in 1" or 1 1/2" bars. So I bought the 1 1/2" bar.

[@GodsCountry]

Dou, I think that will probably work fine. You might need a slightly different number of weights than I used.

[@MrCrunchyEGGROLL]

God's Country thanks!

[@zcarenow]

i need one where i can walk continuously for like 30 minutes smooth as much as possible without much fatigue like this guy here...how long have you used it continuously at one time? Walking in Hồ Chí Minh City ( Saigon )

[@GodsCountry]

I have never used mine for 30 min at a time but I do regularly use it for 10-15 minutes at a time. I have never felt fatigued while using it. The good thing about this setup is that it is light weight. The camera is light and the steadicam is light since it's mostly plastic and aluminum. Let me know if I can't help with anything else.

[@SandClockCinema]

I'm wondering if there is some way you can make the curved bar with the holes for me. I'm willing to pay you something for it. If you want to add the washers and paint it that would be cool so all I have to do is get the handle parts and the parts for the camera. Let me know if your ok with that. I have no way to make that part do to my situation so this would be a big help.

[@GodsCountry]

I'm sorry Joseph. I just don't have the time to build parts for people. Thanks for your message though!

[@sethcal88]

Hey man, I can't seem to get my build to balance correctly. Ive tried and tried to get it balanced correctly but it just continues to swing. Any thoughts? Anyone?

[@GodsCountry]

sethcal88 Hi Seth. Thanks for the comment. You might want to watch this older video of mine: DIY Steadicam Design and Construction Tips - For GoPro Hero 3, 3+, 4, and Other Cameras . It talks about balancing and camera/handle position starting around the 3 min mark. Did you build yours exactly like mine? If so, start off with the same number of weights as mine. Otherwise it's just a lot of trial and error adding and removing weights. The lower part of the steadicam should be only slightly heavier than the top so that it keeps the camera upright. If you draw an imaginary line down through the camera and grip, the front half of the steadicam should balance with the back half. If they are equal than there shouldn't be any rotation around the grip axis. Equal weight front and rear does not mean equal number of balancing weights because the front already has the weight of the bow/frame. Let me know if you need more help.

[@joxmar83]

How well would this work with a dslr?

[@GodsCountry]

I have never tried it but it might be a little small for a dslr. Obviously you would have to add a lot more weight. I think you might want to upsize the frame and weights. The grip/bearing/joint should work just fine for a dslr.

[@LeonSandoval]

Question- is there any reason you emphasize the CPVC instead of regular PVC? I happen to have a length of PVC and don't want to buy if I don't have to! ;) Also- as I'm building mine I came up with a mod that I can't wait to share with you! It's either genius or a total clown move. We shall see!

[@GodsCountry]

Hey Leon! Looking forward to seeing your mod. I used 3/4" CPVC because it fits in the grip perfectly and the CPVC coupler is close to being a perfect fit on the outside diameter of the bearing. CPVC and PVC have different inside/outside diameters. 3/4" PVC will not fit in the grip. 1/2" PVC will probably work in the grip but I think the inside diameter of the coupler is to small.

[@LeonSandoval]

Hahaha! I had a feeling... I posted that message before I went shopping for my last pieces and took my PVC with me. The grip DEFINITELY would have to be forced. I'm debating... force or bite the bullet and buy a pipe. ;) Anyways, I was able to get everything I needed locally except the bearings. So I ordered them from the same site you noted. They come from Anaheim which is only over an hour away from me so I hope I get them soon. Thanks a ton, my friend!

[@GodsCountry]

Leon Sandoval Great! I'm glad you got your supplies rounded up. You could wait till you get the bearings so that you can check their fit in the pipe fitting. Anyway, Good luck and let me know if you need any more help.

[@bradcook20066]

I couldnt find CPVC but found a cooper 3/4 coupling and 3/4 cooper pipe fits perfect and has a nice feel to it also even without the bike grip

[@GodsCountry]

Brad Cook Thanks for the feedback Brad. That's good to know. How well do the bearings fit in the inside of the 3/4" copper coupling?

[@YogaFlameTV]

Can I buy one made by you? Thanks no time to DIY for me

[@GodsCountry]

Thanks for the message Yoga Flame. I'm sorry but I don't build these to sell. I don't have the time either. You might want to check out B and H Photo for commercial versions. I'm really sorry but thanks again.

[@jeffersonostler3987]

Hey, I just bought parts from the website and am wondering how long they will take to arrive. Thanks and great video! I'm very excited to build.

[@GodsCountry]

Jefferson Ostler Hi Jeff! I have already shipped your parts and you should have been sent a tracking number. They should get to you in 2-3 days. Thanks for the purchase!!!

[@thilagarajanselvaraj8438]

HI, I'm from India.. Just wondered what to ask for getting that aluminium bar.. You made it specifically for this.? or bought it.? just let me know how to get tat bar..

[@GodsCountry]

Hello, The aluminum bar is 1 1/4" x 1/8" x 3' long. That is roughly 31.75mm x 3.175mm x 1 meter. I purchased this bar at a big hardware store and bent it my self. It is not hard to bend. Let me know if you need more help.

[@thilagarajanselvaraj8438]

God's Country Thank you so much.. After a lot of search, we dont get the Traxxas 1651 in India.. Is there any other part i can use instead of Traxxas 1651 for the flyer..?

[@GodsCountry]

Thilagarajan Selvaraj . I did not use a Traxxas 1651. I used Traxxas part numbers 4953x and 4949x. They combine to form the joint that I used. All of the part information is in the video description. If you can't get Traxxas parts, you might be able to find a joint from a different manufacturer. These are U-joints / axle shafts are for remote control "toy" cars. I used the Traxxas part because the shaft fit the bearing inside diameter perfectly. The bearings are important to get smooth video. Let me know if you have any other questions.

[@DouglasLee]

i built this and i dont have a problem with the spinning but i have a problem with the rocking. as i move forward and backwards, the entire rig rocks back and forth as the back weights and the bottom weights act like a seesaw. have you any remedies for this or any idea what I am doing wrong or what i could adjust?? Thanks!

[@GodsCountry]

Hi Doug. It sounds like you may have to much weight on the bottom of the steadicam. The bottom should only be slightly heavier than the top in order to keep the camera upright. It's tough to diagnose a balance problem over the internet but I would try removing weight from the bottom a little at a time. It takes a lot of trial and error to get these things set up right. Let me know how it works out for you.

[@GodsCountry]

P.S. I've got a couple of other videos that talk about balancing and might help you out.

[@DouglasLee]

thanks for the quick reply. do you have any videos were you are actually using the stabilizer? or videos of it in your hand moving it around? i just want to see yours looks like versus mine.

[@GodsCountry]

Douglas Lee Hi Doug.I don't have any videos of the steadicam in front of the camera but I do have this demonstration video: DIY Steadicam VS Grip Mount Demonstration - Which Is Smoother?

[@samt.1369]

great tutorial!! looks pretty neat!! Do you sell on Ebay of Amazon?

[@GodsCountry]

+Sam Theb Thanks Sam! I don't have time to build these for people but I do sell some steadicam parts here: www.buygoproparts.com/ . I do not sell on ebay or amazon. Sorry.

[@tokkidokidojo2825]

exellente video. si c'est possible de mettre un sous titre rapide en francais avec les mesures en francais. merci

[@GodsCountry]

Tokkidoki Dojo Thank You TD! I normally use Google Translate. The measurements are in the description of the video so you should be able to translate in google.

[@mcolmena18]

Thanks so much for that explanation!

[@GodsCountry]

No problem! I'm glad it helped.

[@jesusoscar76]

Hi, first thanks for the video, I gonna try soon to make a similar steadicam, I´m having problems to find the pieces, to the handle, I gonna use a plastic tripod because I can´t find the traxxas here in Mexico, and the tripod had a gimbal sphere, for the others items I just have a doubt about the aluminum bar, what do you use for bend the aluminum bar? Greetings from Monterrey Mexico, sorry for my English :)

[@GodsCountry]

Oscar Sanchez Hey Oscar! Thanks for the comment. I'm sorry you are having trouble finding the Traxxas parts. I can not find them locally either so I order them. Have you tried to find an internet supplier that will ship to you? Traxxas might have one listed on their website. I bent the aluminum bar by hand around an air tank cylinder. If I remember correctly it was around 9 inches in diameter. Let me know if you need more help.

[@jesusoscar76]

God's Country Yes, that help, I find the traxxas on ebay but can take more than a month to arrive, so I looking for other options, even the aluminum bar is hard to find, on the local lowe´s and home depot is not for sale, I find a company who sale that kind of pieces but is 10ft long, I gonna buy it and if I do a good job maybe do more steadicam for sale. Thanks for the fast reply!!

[@RipIt832]

How much would u say this build cost to make?

[@GodsCountry]

Hi Jamie! Sorry it's taken me a while to reply. I've never added up the costs. It depends on what you have on hand and what you have to order/buy. I already had most of the components. I think the aluminum bar was about $10, the gopro tripod adapters are around $8, the Traxxas u-joint parts are about $15 plus shipping, bike grips can be had for $5-$30 depending on how high-end you want to go. Bearings are $14 plus shipping. It's a fun project and works well but you have to watch your costs.

[@RipIt832]

Thanks for the response. Awesome job!

[@pascalchanoca5522]

nice video! Im About to build myself a steadycam too. could you maybe copy your steadicams form with the exact positions of each hole to a piece of paper and put In your description Or just Auswer my comment and give me a link where i can download it? ?

[@GodsCountry]

+Pascal Chanoca Hi Pascal. Thanks for the comment. I have all of those dimensions in the description of this video. Did you see them?

[@pascalchanoca5522]

+God's Country yes i did, but its still really hard for me to imagine How i have to bend the Aluminium. So if you would copy the Form just with a pencil to paper, and then put it in the description Box i could easilly print it and Start bending it the exact way you did! Thank you for your answer and by the way; your videos are awesome i love it to Make stuff by myself! !!

[@GodsCountry]

+Pascal Chanoca Hi Pascal. I'm really sorry but KZbin does not give me the option to upload pictures to the description. Something that might help you to know is that I bent the frame around an air tank that was 7" in diameter. If you can find a cylinder that is a similar size, it will help you. I'm sorry I can't do the picture but get the measurements out of the description, maybe draw it out, bend the arc around a tube/cylinder, and you should get pretty close to my frame.

[@SkintSNIPER262]

Could this be used with DSLRs?

[@GodsCountry]

***** Honestly Skint, I think this steadicam is too small for a DSLR. You should read the discussion/comments that I had with Berk Kiziltug yesterday on this same subject.

[@mariusmihai5428]

Hi! How much the parts cost?

[@GodsCountry]

Marius Mihai Hello Marius. It really depends on where you live and how much the parts cost in your part of the world. If you're looking for a total parts cost, I'm sorry but I don't have one. When I put mine together, I had quite a few of the parts already.

[@tokkidokidojo2825]

très bon tutoriel bravo

[@GodsCountry]

Tokkidoki Dojo Thank you!

[@And1_89]

Wow, very good tutorial. I will try to build one on my own. Hopefully it will work :D

[@GodsCountry]

Thanks Andreas! Let me know if you have any questions!

[@And1_89]

Thank you. :)

[@And1_89]

God's Country Here you can get the bearings really cheap: www.ebay.de/itm/10pcs-6x22x7-MM-BALL-BEARING-FOR-TAMIYA-KYOSHO-TRAXXAS-HPI-FAST-SHIPPING-/370725927754?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item5650fcbb4a Just for information :)

[@GodsCountry]

Good find! I have not searched ebay for them in a while but there looks to be many of them for cheap now. Shipping from overseas will probably take a while though. Thanks again.

[@Rsewo]

I did that but with a mini-tripod witch comes with a sphere as a gimbal... the only thing is I couldnt properly bend my bar :[

[@GodsCountry]

Rsewo Sorry to hear that Rsewo. The best thing to do is find a round object that you can bend the bar/frame around to form it's shape.

[@Rsewo]

Yey... I did bend the bar properly now... Working perfectly, i just need to paint it. Hey i did a diving mask mount and a diving mount to use the two hands... Havent seen anyone doing it like i did yet... Maybe ill make a video later. The mini tripod steadicam is a lot easier to make and easier to find here in south america... Checkout gopro steadicam portugues its good stuff too tks for your video it helped a lot

[@mny-patentcatalog681]

well done

[@emedege3552]

Hey man, absolutely amazing. One more sub!! Do u know from where could I get some of these materials but in Spain hahha. I know it´s hard but please if you know...

[@GodsCountry]

EmeDeGe Thanks!!! I'm glad you liked it. Here are some suggestions to try: local hardware stores, local bike shops, ebay, amazon. I have been told by some people that CPVC pipe does not exist in some countries. I'm not sure about Spain. Good luck and let me know if I can help with anything.

[@andressolis1487]

thanks!

[@GodsCountry]

Thanks Andres! Let me know if you have any questions.

[@davidchandler3192]

Thank you sooo sooo sooooo much!

[@GodsCountry]

You're welcome. I'm glad it helped!

[@DaRatFromJupiter]

How could I mod that to support an iPad?

[@DaRatFromJupiter]

Thanks. Someone is going around looking at 1 year old comments and acting cool. I applaud you Sir.

[@TzzX78]

ooooooooooo i wanted to see it in use....

[@GodsCountry]

Thanks for the comment Xavi Xav. I do have some videos of it being used: DIY GoPro Steadicam Version 2: Demonstration Video and here's another one: DIY Steadicam VS Grip Mount Demonstration - Which Is Smoother?

[@TzzX78]

i have a gopro2. if you look at my page I have several videos. A steadicam woud help me improve my videos. thanks for showing us how easy is to manufacture one of this contractions.

[@iCoteg]

well, its ok, but: ты описываешь твою конструкцию ты имеешь твой DSLR а если мой DSLR другой, чем твой как я могу adjust мой DIY Steadycam

[@GodsCountry]

iCoteg Thank you for your comment. This steadicam is designed for GoPro and other small cameras. I do not think it would work well with a DSLR. You would need a bigger steadicam. Sorry.

[@iCoteg]

ok, thank you

[@NGSVALENCIA]

Thanks from Spain! really usefull, sprayed my whole motorcycle with plastidip LOL

[@GodsCountry]

You are welcome! Plastidip is amazing stuff.....

[@vanzotechsrl4753]

neat!

[@GodsCountry]

Thanks!

[@mny-patentcatalog681]

Simple cool

[@GodsCountry]

Thanks!

[@JohnJohn-xv5sx]

Dude i've just watched few of your video ! Damn you're so wooww ! Thanks for this share and keep away from GoPro's engineers. If they catch you... we lose these so cool DIY gopro and will pay so much for it ! ha ha take care bro.

[@GodsCountry]

Yo S Hahaha! You crack me up. Thanks man. I'm glad you're enjoying them! I've got more in the works.

[@WOZCINEMA]

Awesome rig bro! Great job! You can sell you'r rig for an easy $90.

[@GodsCountry]

MMA WOZ Thanks! I'm glad you liked it! I don't really have the time to build them so I just try to help other people build their own.

[@curtasswil]

I used this design to build my own steadicam. After tweeking the counter weights it performs amazingly well. Better than I anticipated for something home made. If you are an amateur GoPro user, this is a great alternative to purchasing a manufactured steadicam. Below is comparison footage of my GoPro on a GoPole and then on my steadicam. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g3nNqYGPhJidm6c Thanks +God's Country for all the awesome DIY's and other cool videos.

[@GodsCountry]

+Curtis Wilburn Thanks Curtis! I'm happy it's working so well for you. Thank you for the comparison and the link to my channel!

[@propdoctor21564]

Nice,, you are a master video craftsman :-)

[@GodsCountry]

Haha! Thanks man!

[@mattnev8625]

need too use the metric system lol

[@GodsCountry]

matthew neville Haha! I actually prefer the metric system too. I usually use google to convert. Just type in 22mm = " into google and it will convert it. You can put whatever numbers you want and you can switch the " and mm (or lots of other units). Its a pretty quick tool.