DIY / How To: KIA Cee`d MKII - Master Cylinder Replacement - Dropp Clutch Repair - Part1 - Bildilla

[@adam9747]

Love that you showed the issue with new part not fitting and how to fix it. Good video coverage as well. Thank you

[@bildillamagasin]

Thank you for your feedback! Greeting Pål (Paul)

[@stephenhill8991]

Good job - thanks! A tricky task on LH drive model. The RH (UK) version is a little easier as no need to remove battery/ computer and Diesel filter.

[@ConnorA21]

Hi mate, I agree uk is much better question is your clutch bite low? I’m changing this to see if it improves the clutch bite location

[@stephenhill8991]

@ConnorA21 No, not so much the bite point, just issues with notchy shift, and a visible slight leak on the clutch MC near the engine bay bulkhead. Apparently a (quite) common issue with this otherwise pretty solidly engineered car. (2012, 1.6 CRDi).

[@bildillamagasin]

Yes, it sounds much easier on RHD cars :)

[@4155boy]

Tack för båda videoklippen! väldigt hjälpsamt då jag är i samma situation med min kia ceed och svårt att hitta klipp med denna årsmodell.

[@bildillamagasin]

God kveld! Ja det er få videoer om Ceed. Nå ble vel denne bilen ikke solgt over hele verden, så det er vel Europa stort sett. Men pene biler, med mye utstyr! Hilsen Pål

[@wasbeer7]

Thanks!😊

[@bildillamagasin]

Glad the video comes in handy! :) Good luck! 😀

[@lzkams]

Very informative, thanks. Would you happen to know if an UK's market Mk2 cee'd would have the same layout of parts, given that the clutch is on the right side? I popped the bonnet the other night to check and I noticed that the brake fluid reservoir isn't on the same side as on your video, which implies that the rest would probably be fitted on the opposite side as well?

[@bildillamagasin]

Good evening! Very good question! I have not been away in these cars with right-hand drive. But as you point out, the brake booster and master cylinders must probably be on the right side. I assume that the slave cylinder is in the same place as on a left-hand drive car? I have a video on replacing this unit as well. It would be very unnatural if the engine was mounted differently on the 2 versions. It should be possible to run pipes between master and slave, around the engine. It just gets longer. But it may happen that there are different part versions of the master cylinder? I would double check if you were considering ordering parts. Greeting Pål (Paul)

[@lzkams]

@@bildillamagasin Hi there. It occured to me that it was a rather silly question on my end. It seems obvious, at least now, that having the clutch pedal on the right side of the car means that it must be linked to the master cylinder directly. So, on an UKs car you can find it between the brake fluid reservoir and the turbo charger (mine's a 1.6 diesel), unlike on yours, behind the battery. The slave cylinder is fitted to the side of the gearbox as it moves the fork to release the cluth from the flywheel, I think, but thats where you can find it on my car at least. Thanks

[@bildillamagasin]

@@lzkams Hello again I changed the slave cylinder on my car earlier too. Mine was completely defective. Watch video here: DIY / HOW TO SWAP SLAVE CYLINDER - fix Clutch slave cylinder: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mWmWdH-Xn8qtfrc Greeting Paul

[@trevorphilips1971]

How did you make it fit?

[@bildillamagasin]

Hello. I used a metal file, to take off a bit on the edge. Had to take it slow but sure. A little at a time, and try if it fits. It's a shame that the part had such a bad fit, but it worked as intended! Greeting Pål (Paul)

[@rs.wright]

What was the issue? Did you have a leak in the cylinder or was your pedal getting close to the floor from slop in the linkage? It seems kia has designed this clutch poorly with no adjustment on the pedal so the wear on the rod creates enough play that the clutch will no longer fully release.

[@bildillamagasin]

Hello. With me, it was difficult to disconnect the clutch. First I changed the slave cylinder, which was defective. It helped a little. Then I replaced the master cylinder. then it got even better. But as you say, there should have been an adjustment option! Greeting Pål (Paul)

[@rs.wright]

@@bildillamagasin just changed mine. It was incredibly difficult to turn the new master cylinder completely so that it's locked into the firewall. My 24mm wrench was beginning to round the hex flats on the new part. Not sure why they couldn't have just used studs that bolt to the firewall. Odd engineering in a few places on this car... It did seem to resolve the issue I had (same as you, I had very notchy shifting). If this issue comes back I'm thinking I will make a new threaded pin that goes from the slave cylinder to the clutch fork with adjustment there. I alla fall, glad midsommar.

[@ConnorA21]

@@bildillamagasindid it improve the clutch bite location as my clutch bite is near the floor

[@alexjson2142]

​@@ConnorA21have the same problem. Clutch biting low. Im about to change master and slave cylinder. Have you done it ? Did the biting improve ?

[@ConnorA21]

@@alexjson2142 yes I done mine much better

[@المحاميخالدالقاسم]

ok tack

[@bildillamagasin]

Tank you! :)