DIY Kayak PWM Digital Speed Controller Box

[@Aksmaniyak]

I have started a new Facebook group to help share information about this and other projects. If you would like to join, the link is posted here. facebook.com/groups/3521517597860461/

[@haroldhitch65]

Thanks for the help. I bought a similar module & didn't know how I was going to get a 10awg connector n the space. Found you're video using the spade connector & drilled out & worked great!!!

[@Aksmaniyak]

Glad to help.

[@jamesfox3784]

@@Aksmaniyak I'm making the same box. Does the speed controller knob just pop off to insert it into the cover?

[@Aksmaniyak]

Yes, there is no set screw.

[@jamesfox3784]

@@Aksmaniyak Thanks

[@SuperDuperOutdoors]

Its funny...I am on the same course as you and wondering if I should just go straight to the GPS trolling motor and save me some time....Well At lease I have some content to put up. My main concern if the bulkiness of the GPS Motor. I have the F10 and space is limited. Not to mention the weight of the unit. My 24 lb thrust motor and battery weighs in at 17.5 lbs....

[@Aksmaniyak]

Great minds think alike...lol. I went with this Haswing because the F12 is stable with a large payload rating. I have modified another F12 with a transom mount trolling motor and foot pedal steering (see other vids). It is a 12V 65lb thrust with a digital speed controller. No GPS. It only weighs about 14 lbs because it is brushless. I don't think there is a GPS transom mount out there yet.

[@TheSwedishParaCordNu]

I wounder how you cut the square hole to the forward/reverse button? Thanks a million for a great video!

[@Aksmaniyak]

You are welcome. I marked out the square with a marker. I used a standard drill bit and drilled out each corner. Then I used a hacksaw blade (no handle) to cut out the rest and used a small file to smooth out the cut. I hope that helps.

[@TheSwedishParaCordNu]

It helps a lot, thank you very much for the reply!

[@Aksmaniyak]

You are welcome.

[@rosepearre7878]

I have one like this...but that sucker makes all kinds of humming noise mid to lower speeds....any suggestions? WIsh it was really quiet lower speeds.....how is yours? Compared to regular switch like 12345 type switch?

[@Aksmaniyak]

Hi, I have never had a humming noise. I know GAMA PWMs did.

[@Wayne-xy6yw]

Any thoughts on using a 60amp PWM for the Haswing 80 amp Brushless Trolling Motor so I can mount that Motor as an engine mount motor on my Boat to replace my existing 55amp 12 volt Neraus Brushed Motor. My thinking is I will get greater power, much longer runtime at less amps at the expense of an additional battery provided the Haswing Motor wires can fit straight to the PWM and bypass the control switch completely ?

[@Aksmaniyak]

Hi Wayne. Most PWMs are not made for brushless motors. The Haswing has a digital speed controller (PWM) already. You don't need to change anything for your project.

[@skipelliott985]

Great Video. The voltage gauge did you just connect it to the pos/ negative. Thanks

[@Aksmaniyak]

Thanks Skip. It is one of the many on Amazon. Yes, just hook it up to the power connections.

[@skipelliott985]

The one I’m looking at it has a USB port build in.

[@Aksmaniyak]

@@skipelliott985 Those usually draw a minimum of 2A. I have never tried that so I can't say it would work.

[@tymonsharp93]

Love your videos...have you figured out how to build a PWM with a center detent so that there is no forward/reverse toggle switch but instead direction is controlled with the potentiometer knob?

[@Aksmaniyak]

You are welcome Tymon. I have used other PWMs with a center detent but this inexpensive model won't work with one.

[@RPB-nx7vj]

where did you get the box and does it come with a seal of some sort?

[@Aksmaniyak]

I bought the box from Amazon and it does have a rubber seal.

[@youngjoon117]

I have a minn kota endura 30 and motor guide 54lb trolling motor. Plan on using a 100ah lithium battery. Do I need to use a 100a pwm? Also 100ah overkill?

[@youngjoon117]

Also the 2 motors are going on 2 separate kayaks with their own batteries

[@Aksmaniyak]

If you are going to use it for both motors then a 100A PWM is good.

[@youngjoon117]

@@Aksmaniyak but do I need a 100a specifically because of the 100ah lithium battery? Do the motors even draw that much amperage?

[@Aksmaniyak]

@@youngjoon117 No, battery size does not determine the PWM rating. The max amp draw of the trolling motor is the factor. I like to have a battery at least 2x the max amp draw of a TM.

[@johnodell2074]

Aksman, What size gland nut did you use to go through that box and did you get it on Amazon or electrical store or whereever. I'm trying to do this to my Predator MX kayak.

[@Aksmaniyak]

Hi John. I don't remember what size it was because I bought an assortment pack on Amazon and used one that fit.

[@lowe516]

Thanks for all of the videos. I have the 46lb Newport Vessels & pwm. What plug did you buy to connect the wires of the shaft into the rear of the kayak. I see guys using 4 pin waterproof plugs, but I can't find anything rated for the 40amp draw of the NV46#. Thanks you.

[@Aksmaniyak]

You are welcome. I used an Attwood connector. Using the PWM with the NV TM will not draw 40A. This is the link: www.amazon.com/Attwood-7622-7-3-Wire-Trolling-Connector/dp/B00K8DAQM6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=25LBTBH4DKETJ&keywords=attwood+trolling+motor+plug+and+receptacle&qid=1555071615&s=gateway&sprefix=attwood+trolling+motor+%2Caps%2C838&sr=8-1

[@crackerjack9120]

@@Aksmaniyak I too am setting up a NV motor. It is a 40lb, and I was thinking of adding a 40A inline fuse. The link above is a 60A breaker. Am I missing something? Also, I thought this setup might create too much heat to put in a water tight box, but it must be ok. Thanks for the time you put in the video to share.

[@Aksmaniyak]

Thanks Danny. You always want the circuit breaker amp rating to be greater than the lb thrust rating. If your prop was to foul or there was a current surge, the breaker will trip easily. That is why I went with the 60A. I have never had a heat issue with the box because of the way i put everything together.

[@robertogarza3412]

Did you diy the battery indicator also ? Awesome video by the way 🤙🏼

[@Aksmaniyak]

Thanks Roberto. I bought the battery meter off Amazon. There are a few different styles.

[@ryanbell-cm8el]

How much and how do I get it

[@bayoufennec5434]

i noticed you had a video from a couple of year back showing the Wireless Trolling Motor Pro. did that system fail and do you recommend making your own instead of purchasing one?

[@Aksmaniyak]

Hi. No, the WTP is still going strong. It is just that many people are buying the inexpensive PWMs from China and had questions about building a box for it.

[@bayoufennec5434]

ok thanks for the reply. still trying to decide which route to go.

[@jamosblackburn7373]

Great video!! Have you tried using electronic grade resin to water proof the control board? Was thinking of trying it myself.

[@Aksmaniyak]

No I didn't. I just used marine goop to seal it.

[@Sdemmy980]

I’m debating on getting one of these because if it rains. I noticed it’s not sealed do you get issues with splash or rain?

[@Aksmaniyak]

I have not had a problem with minor splashing. The box has a seal ans I cut the holes with a tight tolerance and use marine goop to seal them.

[@johnrugani9832]

hello Aksman What do you think about mounting the pwm in the rear of the kayak and extending the Speed and forward / reverse knob to the front of the kayak in a much smaller hand control box. I thought i heard someone say that would fry the PMW. Have you ever done this?

[@Aksmaniyak]

Hi John. I have made a remote before and they work just fine. I would not make it too long though (less than 5 feet).

[@johnrugani9832]

Aksman thanks!

[@Aksmaniyak]

You are welcome John.

[@NiteWolfeFishing]

great walk through... I have a question maybe you could answer. When i add my pwm i want to put the reversing switch and the speed knob on the end of my tiller rod which means i will need to extend the wires for those parts about 6 feet. Ill mount the job box and actual pwm at the stern by the motor. SO question time... What size wire should i use to extend the dial and switch by 6 feet. They look tiny so i take it they are not actually carrying the full current load of the motor. You see i went with a tiller steering over foot pegs because i am often working the bank while standing and the tiller rod lets me steer while standing. I have a 2 position tiller rest that lets me lay low for sitting or high for standing. But having to bend down to start, stop or speedup/slow down is a pita. If i put these small controls on the end of my tiller rod then i solve that problem. Thanks

[@Aksmaniyak]

Thanks. I have done what you are talking about before. I don't know the exact gauge of the wire but you can bring the PWM to a place that sells wire and find the right size that is contained in a cable already. I have used telephone extension ribbon cable before in another project and it worked fine. You can use a junction block to make the extension. Mount the junction block inside your box and then run your extension cable from the block out to your new smaller control box. Most electronic hobby shops will have the waterproof project boxes. Let me know if you have any more questions...good luck!

[@NiteWolfeFishing]

great thanks, so in your experience the thin wire in phone line wasnt a issue? If so thats what ill go with for sure. I have a pretty decent source for project boxes (or did have its been a long time since i used them) from when i made diy vape mods. Thanks for the info.

[@Aksmaniyak]

Thanks. I thought about doing a remote that ran through the tiller arm so I could control the kayak while standing. The PWM in this video will be going on a tiller controlled kayak because there was not enough room to add foot pedal steering. As for the wiring, you can use the same gauge wire as the PWM for the extension. Since it is a digital controller, heavier gauge wire is not necessary. I have used telephone extension ribbon wiring before for remotes and it worked fine.

[@Aksmaniyak]

I checked the size of the wire in the phone line and it was the same gauge for my project. Just check to make sure it is the same gauge. Some of the big box stores also sell 3 conductor cable that you can buy by the foot. You might check that out too.

[@NiteWolfeFishing]

Thanks! when i get around to it ill let you know how it worked out. Hopefully soon. I have some major changes coming to my diy kayaks this winter if i can swing them money wise. I know i am reworking the bottoms for better shallow water daft and when i do that i am hoping to use real fiberglass at least on the bottom half. I want to replace all of the poormans fiberglass with the real stuff since i am happy with the hull shape now. Just got to get around the fact that they are foam core so i ether have to use expensive epoxy or use the glue and newspaper trick to keep the poly resin away from the foam. Its not that the poormans isnt good enough, its been good for 2 seasons now on 2 different builds. But i am wanting lighter and stronger. If i go poormans again i will NOT be doing the full burlap cloth.. i bet it held 60 pounds of paint making my yaks much heaver than needed.

[@abrahammedina1820]

What is the part called that feeds the wire in the box and keeps water put?

[@Aksmaniyak]

Gland nut.

[@zanetaklimovich5603]

Do you have to bypass the control on the motor itself or are you locking it in a full on position somehow?

[@Aksmaniyak]

There are 2 ways to do it. You can connect the battery pos/neg coming from the trolling motor to the PWM. You would set the speed setting on 5. The other way is to remove the speed switch and connect the PWM to the pos/neg of the wires coming from the trolling motor shaft. You would cap off the remaining white/yellow wires.

[@Aksmaniyak]

If you want more feedback join my new FB group. It is easier to exchange information. facebook.com/groups/3521517597860461/

[@kalebpate8510]

I've gone through three pwm. It smokes and makes a pop when I hook up the battery. What could I be doing wrong? I've checked all my connections and the look good to me.

[@Aksmaniyak]

I did that once by accident with the same smoke and pop. The power inputs were reversed. I know not all PWMs are great quality but if this has happened 3 times then you must have something wired wrong. JMO.

[@kalebpate8510]

@@Aksmaniyak with the SAE connectors, can I have two black connectors hook together? Does that make sense? I wish I could send you a pic...

[@Aksmaniyak]

@@kalebpate8510 I'm not sure I understand the question.

[@kalebpate8510]

@@Aksmaniyak I figured it out!! The polarity just needed to be reversed, because hooking the two black SAE connectors together was crying everything. Thanks for the help

[@Aksmaniyak]

@@kalebpate8510 I'm glad you worked it out. Not all SAE connectors can be used together because of polarity issues. Was that it?

[@JimCouch]

Do you have any heat problems with the PWM being enclosed like that?

[@Aksmaniyak]

Hi Jim. No, I have not had any heat issues with this build. The box has a lot of space inside which helps with heat transfer. I also mount the PC board slightly above the mounting plate which also allows for air flow under the board.

[@jokerz60]

Thanks for the videos. But what do you do with the extra wires in the minn kota trolling mootor. Do you just use the red and black wires to the own. And do I use the switch that come out of the trolling motor. Thank

[@Aksmaniyak]

You only use all the wires from the trolling motor if you are using the stock 5F/3R switch. When you use this PWM, you only need the black and red wires from the trolling motor. The yellow and white wires are not needed for the PWM.

[@jokerz60]

@@Aksmaniyak thanks for the reply. Does this pwm have the forward and reverse switch. And should I go with a 60amp or 30 pwm on a minn kota 30lb? Thanks again.

[@Aksmaniyak]

Yes, this project uses the F/R switch. I would use the 60A since they are about the same price. It would be an extra added safety factor.

[@jokerz60]

@@Aksmaniyak thanks for all the help. I do have one more question. What gauge wire do you run from the battery to the pwm? I got 10 gauge. And what size amp fuse should I run. Thanks again.

[@Aksmaniyak]

You are welcome. I use 10G for the battery/power wiring. I use a 60A circuit breaker for the motor instead of a fuse. It is easier to reset if tripped. Let me know how everything goes.

[@aliameri3806]

Great video!!! I was wondering if you have test the unit to different voltages perhaps 24V for a MK riptide, also is unit still going strong will you recommend this unit after using it for a year or so? Many thanks again for the video!

[@Aksmaniyak]

Thank you Ali. I have not tested it for 24V because all my kayaks are 12V. The PWM is rated for 24V though. The unit is still going strong but I have not had it for a year yet.

[@aliameri3806]

@@Aksmaniyak i see, i have been doing some onine research and there are some other units that are advertise as multiple Voltage input so i thought this one might been one of those... anyway could you please share what trolling motor you are using with this unit and also your battery, ultimatetly i want to understand about how much autonomy (hours with a single charge) you get out of the controller??? I wonder if it is comperable to the WTP (wireless troling pro) or the MK OEM digital maximaxer???

[@Aksmaniyak]

This PWM works well but I like the WTP and have purchased several of them for kayak builds. This PWM is similar to the WTP and Digital Maximizers but is much less expensive and comes from China. I prefer to use the USA brands in my kayaks. To approximate the run time for a trolling motor and battery I use this formula. Battery(Amp Hours) divided by trolling motor (maximum) amps = approximate run time at full speed. Of course, if you go slower then your run time will increase.

[@Van50van]

I have a 45 lbs thrust TM, hooked my PWM, it 55 amp along with a 50 amp fuse etx Question is, my PWM when I run my trolling motor on 5.and turn my speed up to the fastest speed on my kayak it will trip my fuse and I have to wait 5 minutes or so to reset it. What could be the reason for this? Even when I turn it to 4 speed and turn it up all the way ot will trip the fuse but not as quick as when it's in speed 5. Another question is why does the PWM when on speed 5 at 3/4 speed pulsate? Speed up, slow down continually until I lower the speed?

[@Aksmaniyak]

Hi. You might need to go to a larger circuit breaker. What size wiring did you use to hook up the PWM?

[@Van50van]

I used the one you posted, but it might be too long, its probably 8 ft in length. 7 wire, grey case, I think the 22 awg

[@Van50van]

I used 10 guage to hook up TM to PWM etc. But the speed controller is the 22

[@Aksmaniyak]

Check the connections inside the speed controller head unit. There might be corrosion or a loose connection.

[@Aksmaniyak]

Yes, that might be too long.

[@larryhorne2788]

How many amp is can it run?

[@Aksmaniyak]

This one is rated for 12V and 60A.

[@frydaddy1984]

What size wire do I need for a 50 lb. Thrust. My boat is 15' so probably 18' of wire.

[@Aksmaniyak]

I have always used 10G. You could go to 8G with that length.

[@captanehook6927]

Minn Kota reccomends a 60 amp breaker and 4 gauge wire for runs of 15 - 20 feet for their 50 lb. Thrust motor.

[@Treelimbfishing]

Is the switch waterproof

[@Aksmaniyak]

No I replaced it with a waterproof one.

[@goodlife6942]

what are the size of the rubber grommets?

[@Aksmaniyak]

They are small...probably 3/8 inch diameter. They just need to be big enough to raise the PC board off the box bottom.

[@jwood3725]

What is the project box and where did you get it? Thx

[@Aksmaniyak]

Here is a link to the project box. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSQZ5M6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@kalebpate8510]

Does this still need a circuit breaker?

[@kalebpate8510]

And did you place it in the box?

[@Aksmaniyak]

@@kalebpate8510 Yes it needs a circuit breaker. I put one about 1 foot away from th battery between the trolling motor ans the controller box.

[@donoehlke7000]

What are the wires that go into the box for hookup?

[@Aksmaniyak]

Sorry about the late reply. Which wires?

[@mikeatwood5211]

How are you cooling in a sealed enclosure?

[@Aksmaniyak]

It is air cooled. I raised the circuit board with an offset that helps with the heat transfer. Also, it is 60/100A rated and it never approaches that amount.

[@markygutierrez4195]

What gauge wire are the positive and negative

[@Aksmaniyak]

I use 10G.

[@normanrogers8057]

Is a pwm better than a esc

[@Aksmaniyak]

There are many pros/cons for each. I would suggest doing a google search on the subject. There are some comments that may help here.

[@markbotdelon2739]

What brand PWM did you purchase and where?

[@Aksmaniyak]

I don't know the brand name but it is a 12V 60A PWM from Wish.com.

[@2002Eglide]

Thank you for putting this video together. I have a question. Your digital volt gauge, does it stay on all the time or can you wire it to work with the on off switch?

[@Aksmaniyak]

Thanks Robert. This one stays on but you could use a switch. It really doesn't affect the battery usage.

[@petecampa]

Great video...I'm interested in buying this set up from you if you sell it...I wasn't able to DM you so I'll wait for your response...thank you in advance...

[@Aksmaniyak]

Hi Pete. I don't make these units for sale because I can't warranty the PWM electronics. I wouldn't want anyone to spend money on something that could fail. That is why I make the videos so people can buy the parts needed with the manufacturer's warranty.

[@petecampa]

@@Aksmaniyak thanks for the response...my brother ordered us 2 wireless units which mine has been nothing but trouble...never got to use it ...about $160 wasted...lesson learned...

[@garzaglass]

where did you get your PWM?

[@Aksmaniyak]

I bought that one from Amazon.

[@neitboisaeteurn3097]

Link for the pwm? TIA

[@neitboisaeteurn3097]

Bought 2 from amazon and they seem to be defective

[@Aksmaniyak]

Hi. All the parts are listed in the narrative but this is where I bought the PWM. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0792Q995Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@neitboisaeteurn3097]

Aksman Thanks!

[@Aksmaniyak]

You are welcome.

[@fishermann2776]

Can you sell me one of these?

[@Aksmaniyak]

Hi. I have been asked this many times but I won't do it because I can't warranty the PWM. I would hate to take someones money and then the electronics failed.

[@corysnladventures2758]

Nice job 👍👍👈 can you sell me one please ???

[@Aksmaniyak]

Pm me.