Dodge Caravan 3.0L replacing timing belt, water pump and front seals, part 7: Re-assembly 1

This eight part video series covers a tear down of the front of the 3.0L engine found in many Chrysler products.
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The vehicle shown is a 2000 Dodge Caravan with a serious oil leak.The front crankshaft oil seal is replaced as well as the timing belt, the water pump gasket and a cam shaft seal. Part seven covers re-assembly of the alternator bracket, cam sprocket, alternator, timing belt, lower timing cover, damper and crankshaft bolt, crank pulleys and upper timing covers. For step-by-step text and still pictures of this procedure see:www.originalmechanic.com/2013/...

[@stevenbuell5387]

Sir thank you my lady will be happy when I fix this I brought my stuff today. Have to get me a torque wrench. My son that is severely autistic loves or 98 Dodge caravan it only have 132,000 miles it skipped timing because the mechanic didn't do it right folks need prayer I get this done this week . God bless all. Thank you know I know what to torque the small bolts and big bolts down to .

[@anna2224]

Great video thanks. Would have been helpful to show the bolts before putting them in there place. I made a mess of my bolts. Rookie mistake 😅

[@harryfischer6741]

FYI for assembling the alternator bracket, remember to leave the hole opening that bolts the mounting plate into the engine block. Or you will be taking the timing cover off again. Also I started all my bolts that held the ac bracket and belt tensioner together. oh had to lube up the wrenches to get them into the places I needed them.

[@jeffbguarino]

After I put the timing belt back on and got the marks all perfect, I put the crankshaft pulley , inner harmonic balancer and bolted it in with the big bolt. Then I check all my wires etc. Rad hoses connected and started the van, let it run and watched the belt turn and looked for any leaks, oil seals and the water pump. I let it run until the engine got hot and revved it up a couple of time and check again for oil leaks and coolant. There were no leaks. Then I took the main pulley off and put everything back together so I knew there were no leaks.

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

Good job....and not an easy one!

[@r3g3d17]

This is a fantastic series of videos. Thanks so much for taking the time to film and post it.

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

You're very welcome. Thanks for the comment.

[@clayguy33]

You are a gentleman and a scholar for making and posting this video. I am now going to attempt to do the same with my '95 Caravan V6. I have the manual to cover the differences in procedure. Thanks again.

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

Thanks for the comment and I hope your repair goes well..

[@clayguy33]

The Original Mechanic Thank you.. It's ... going .. slowly. My timing belt ended up breaking before I even attempted the repair. (What are the chances!?) So I am to the point where I can install the new belt. I am attempting to find TDC. .. but when I turn the crank and cover the #1 spark plug hole, I feel the same amount of air between both strokes (the compression and exhaust stroke).. (ie.. I can't distinguish between them). Otherwise, the repair is going very well. Your videos are way better than Haynes.

[@robertdonehue]

One of the bolts for the alternator bracket is put in the wrong place. The bolt hole used at the front edge of the bracket around the 2:00 mark is for the engine mount bracket. The proper bolt hole is further down the alternator bracket.

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

Robert Donehue Yeah, I know. I thought I fixed that in the video. I guess not. A good thing to note for anyone doing this. Thanks for the comment!

[@1Didgeridoo]

Thanks for the video, it worked great for mine Lebaron as well. It has the same engine. Greatings from Holland

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

Glad to hear it helped. Well done and thanks for watching...from WI, USA.

[@alexyoung3559]

I'll need this

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

Good luck! It's quite a job.

[@englee1978]

good instructions. creative ideas

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment.

[@sneakapeek2577]

i thank you alot!... alot! ... make my life easier :)

[@juanhbanda]

So, at what point did you check timing mark alignment?

[@ednalalich7099]

I followed instructions of taking belts and other parts apart and then putting all back as shown. when i started the motor there was a squeal and smoke , is this from the new belts in wrong, or what else?

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

If the engine ran after the squeal and smoke I wouldn't worry. If it did not you need to go back and recheck the install.

[@elbaron51]

this van was giving to me with 145 k it has a massive oil leak i don’t know if they replace the timing belt or the water pump. do you know what brand should i buy the water pump? i appreciate your help

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

I bought a "Tough One" from Advance Auto for around $32. So far so good.

[@Gazdatronik]

hi! I've just finished doing this for our van using these videos and your printed instructions. but it started leaking oil out the back immediately when I restarted it. I think it's the rear cam seal. when I pushed it in, I was able to do it with the pvc pipe and my fingers, but it went in further than the old seal. recessed maybe 1/4 inch or more . seemed strange but I didn't think anything of it at the time. do you think that is my issue? thank you.

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

That rear cam seal went in further for me too, as I recall. And it did not leak. I don't know of any way to tell where it's coming from without breaking it back down to look. I think if it's a big leak, the crank seal is probably the cause. It is easy to roll this seal on install. Good luck.

[@Gazdatronik]

+The Original Mechanic out of paranoia, i tore it all down again. The seal seemed dry as you said it might. incase, i stuck an extra one in there, only because i had it. i think what happened was is that as the van was tilted back, i ran it, and oil mightve washed dirt that was holding the rear valvecover gasket together. at least i hope thats what happened. thanks, youve help calmed my nerves.

[@Gazdatronik]

The Original Mechanic O.K. I finally figured it out. It was the rear cam seal. After swapping everything down including the head gaskets, It still leaked, so i got another cam seal and pushed it in only as far as the edge of the orafice. Instantly stopped leaking. It was not possible to see with the alternator bracket on, so I removed it, and put the timing belt back on and restarted it. From there it was easy to see oil just dumping out of the seal, even if the rear bank timing was a little off. I hope it never happens to anybody here, but I learned a few things- 1. Its not required to jack up the vehicle at any point. Even with the wheels straight on, the only stuff you need access to from the bottom is the A/C and Crank bolt. 2. Its not necessary to remove the intake manifold or plenum to replace the valvecover gaskets, you just have to hand rotate the motor so the valve is open on the back passenger side to clear the rocker arm. 2. Although unrelated a timing belt change, removal of the fuel rails is not required to remove the intake runners. 3. Complete removal of the alternator is easier in the long run. I hung it on wire the first time, as you did, but found it a lot more accomodating with it out of the vehicle. 4. Its hugely easier to split the motor mount into two halves than to remove it in one piece. 5. While the jam nut trick works to unscrew the bottom studs on the A/C, I found that hammering home a 5mm socket on the stud heads works quicker.

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

Way to go. You have the determination needed to complete a job like this. Thanks for adding all the great detail. That may help someone in the future!

[@TheJasonshaver]

Is this the same motor in 1993 lebaron

[@dennisgarrett664]

I have more than 5 bolt holes which ones I screw in think I Got nine bolt holes and one small . Made 5 hole map of your water pump will look at my water pump and recount bolts and write down bolt number.

[@LOWLOWENT]

Hi im doing this same job on my van but I cant get my cams to line up they both seem like they got a lot of pressure when I turn the cams trying to line up the marks I was wondering how do I avoid that or what would I need to do ? Thank you

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

+Port Cuzz I had some trouble with that on the rear cam sprocket. I just kept trying until they stayed lined up. Maybe a helper could hold them until the belt is in place. That's all I can think of short of making a holding fixture ( that would be a lot of trouble to go to). Good luck with it!

[@LOWLOWENT]

The Original Mechanic ok thanks and great video

[@paladinkhan]

Frick i frickin broke a bolt on the water pump. Frick. What do I got em all torqued and one wasnt clicking.. it was just stretching and i was too dumb to not keep turning it. I think im gonna send it.. Edit to anyone who mightve also done the same. Seems all good, as long as just one is missing I think we'll be okay for a little bit lol. I plan on re doing this here soon to fix a few things I messed up, but as of right now we're running smoothly

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

Yeah that's a tough one. I've had it happen too. My sympathies.

[@valentinosvelasco7022]

gracias amigo por este video me ayudo demaciado disculpa nose escrivir en ingles gracias

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

You're welcome. Thanks for watching the videos.

[@elbaron51]

hi great video i have a oil leak i was thinking to change the crankshaft seal should i change the timing belt and water pump and camshaft seal let me know thanks

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

With it all torn down to do the crank seal, I think it makes sense to at least do the other seals and the timing belt, if the belt has more than 100k on it. The water pump requires even more tear down to replace. All I can say is that I'd do it if I was going to keep the van for a good long time.

[@MrA1Goku]

When I did mine ( 94 voyager 3.0 ) I replaced the timing belt, water pump, idler pulley, and crank seal, when I started reassembly I installed a new water pump, New belt tensioner, crank seal, and running belt, I used a ratchet on the 22mm bolt for the crank shaft and rotated the engine twice to make sure running marks were lined up with all the marks and before I went further with assembly I started it up to make sure it ran properly.

[@siber54]

The three bolts that you used to attach the motor mount bracket what size are those? I have to get new ones for my car.

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

Sorry I don't have that information. Perhaps another viewer will.

[@siber54]

The Original Mechanic I hope so because on my alldata there is only torque specs and not size. The bracket isn’t even mentioned really.

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

@@siber54 You might want to try a dealership parts department

[@siber54]

The Original Mechanic I may have to thx. Also thanks so much for the vids man . Keep up the good work and I’ll send ya some love on PayPal in a bit .

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

@@siber54 You're welcome and thanks for the support!

[@arturitod2]

Hello Friend. I have a question, how much is the cost of this service

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

+arturo colitas I don't know the answer to that. I know it's more than I want to pay.

[@studiocreole7072]

Just to update on this question: a timing belt and water pump replacement is about 4 hours on the shop manual. Add on another shop man-hour to replace seals. At 2017 pricing, possibly a $800 CAD job including parts. Hope this helps.

[@jeffbguarino]

The bolt to the alternator bracket at 1:46 to 1:48 appears to be in the wrong hole, right side but up higher. See video 5 at 5:33. I put it in this hole to discover later it is wrong. You must have moved it to the bottom right hole later , not shown in the video. This hole is for the big bracket to bolt to. You had to have moved to because I can't get the long bolt into the hole. I have to take the plastic cover off and move this bolt to the lower position.

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

Yeah you're right. I think I mentioned that later in the video but it might be easy to miss.

[@jeffbguarino]

@@TheOriginalMechanic I wouldn't have tried this job without your video so I am not complaining, I have to thank you very much. I did watch all the videos multiple times and may have fast forwarded the # 7 when reassembling. I thought the comment at the top of the comments would make the next guy pay attention.

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

@@jeffbguarino Thanks for sharing the helpful tips.

[@kenweis7913]

Another Japanese engine in an American auto

[@stevenbuell5387]

To set timing you have to tighten the belt up on the tensioner right ???

[@TheOriginalMechanic]

Yes, the belt needs to on and under tension to confirm the timing.