Don't Waste Money on WRONG Beginner Woodworking Tools!

[@dillpicklewes50]

Unbelievably refreshing to see someone who's focused on affordability and small spaces. Please keep it up and I'll be happy to keep feeding the algorithm.

[@Soupboy84]

Thank you! Biggest turn off of “for beginners” vids is “you don’t need expensive tools, build these jigs!” Proceed to use $10k workshop to build said jigs. For a true beginner, your channel is a breath of fresh air!

[@NewTestamentDoc]

love your perspective. You make woodworking real. A lot of us retired/disabled guys can't afford much stuff. We don't have much space. I don't even have half of the big stuff you have.... but I don't have the room... still, I wish I had seen this video 10 years ago!

[@danmadewoodworking]

Thank you, I appreciate that!

[@robertbutler9326]

I agree with you, Doc. I have been struggling to develop my workshop set up and I don’t have a big budget to work with. I need to save what I can to buy materials to make stuff. Thanks to Dan for putting things into perspective for the beginners and hobbyists. There are other new folks in the KZbin-iverse that cater more to the beginner community. I’m a disabled Veteran and can’t do what I used to do, so the more I can learn the better. Keep up the good work, Dan.

[@NewTestamentDoc]

@@robertbutler9326 Keep at it, bud. An old Amish man once said, "Show me a job and I'll show you how few tools you need to get it done."!

[@shelleyeisele1022]

Iim a beginner-and appreciate your advice. I bought three Wen tools-trim router, electric planer, and a jig saw. Not top of the line- but affordable. Thanks for the advice about planer and jointer-I’ve been looking for someone who gives good advice-and isn’t pushing new products every week.

[@danmadewoodworking]

I'm glad you found it helpful! 👍🏾😃

[@woodworker5413]

A couple recommendations: Consider taking a night class at a local high school or community college (if this option is available). Ask a friend who is a hobby woodworker to show you the ropes (if available).

[@ogswagballer1159]

Super helpful. Just bought a house and it’s brought me to start wood working and this is the best guide I’ve found where you’re clearly not pushing a brand.

[@BlackstarStudio787]

Dont let the haters tell you what tools are shit. If you're on a budget and dont want to spend dewalt/milwaukee money, ryobi drills will do fine. They might look like babypuke green, but they will do the job, and the $140 4 tool 2 battery kit is a seriously good deal. When comparing to, what, double for a drill/impact and battery combo? Save the money to spend on other tools, materials, etc. Upgrade later if you really need to.

[@danmadewoodworking]

Great! Glad it was helpful. And congrats on the house!

[@SCP75-6]

I agree with just about everything, and used is the way to go with big tools. I saved 450$ (Canadian dollars) on my Dewalt 735 Where I disagree is the battery tools. Having just one type is the way to go. Lots of batteries, only one charger. And I have now invested in lawn care equipment that uses the same batteries. Saves time, space, and with a dozen batteries kicking around I am never out of power !!!! Great video just the same.

[@ron0126]

The simple fact is, you can make almost anything with a circular saw, a jigsaw, a sander, a router, and a drill. Everything else is keyed on convenience, stability, longevity, and ease of use.

[@TomSL55AMG]

Keep up the great work! I think most beginners need to get out and build with what they have. Watching videos about new tools is fun but so many of the tools are not needed to start. Building the skills of how to measure and how to operate a tool actually is fundamental to me.

[@patrickberhow8578]

Please continue. Just starting to get tools after 20 years of experience. I want to branch out solo. This is gold

[@chashint1]

I like you, I hope your channel gains traction.

[@danmadewoodworking]

Thank you, that makes two of us 😀

[@RamaSivamani]

This is a great video for someone get started in woodworking or setting up a maker garage shop.The advantage of staying with the same platform is many times if you buy the cordless tool without a battery it can be cheaper vs with the battery and if you already have good batteries that can work with them than that can save you money.

[@jimmaguire9380]

Great tip about buying better blades and bits! First hand experience, many bits/blades use low quality metal that just don't hold up and don't perform.

[@John-jn2lw]

This is really good advice. The few times I did something that doesn't fall in line with this advice, I ended up wishing I had made a better choice. I would add one thing for anyone new that I wish somebody had said to me: Buy the nicest vacuum you can get. Obviously you can't fit a 12Gal into a 3Gal space, so there are reasonable constraints, but if you can fit a bigger one, or one with more horsepower, one with a 2 1/2" hose instead of 1 7/8", one that takes bags vs one that doesn't... you get the idea. It's the only tool you put more hours on than your sander.

[@PrevName-h9v]

I bought a planer first but had problems getting the face of boards flat so I could get them parallel; planer sled worked well for some things but not everything (things that were larger or smaller, or thinner than the top edge of the sled). I bit the bullet and bought an 8” Cutech jointer and have been thrilled, it’s fantastic, even though it’s a bench top. If I could do it all over again I’d just get a drum sander and be done with it, for me face jointing is more important than edge (can use a track saw for that) and a drum sander can fill that role, as well as drastically reduce the time for finish sanding. Anyway, great video, sorry for the wall of text.

[@danmadewoodworking]

Yeah, I just hate that the drum sander takes so long 😀

[@prerecordedresponse9884]

Cords also slow down the process. I hate having to hunt down an extension cord or move my piece to another location to plug in.

[@jamescraigrn]

I am in the dewalt, Hercules, and bauer platforms. I go with the tools in each platform that meet my needs. My corded tools are also a mix of brands.

[@themeat5053]

Daniel, excellent advice. I've been doing this a long time and I think it is a good craftsman that makes the project, not the tool.

[@philwoodard5439]

Great advice and wish I’d seen this when first starting out. Thanks!

[@a9ball1]

Great video. Now my 2 cents. He is so right about good blades. I've had the same recip saw since 2008 and I've always hated it. It just never cut worth a darn. But just 1 month ago I went to my local hardware store and asked for a really good blade. See usually I buy the cheapest blades I can get for it. This time I spent more and now that same saw is awesome. It just chews through stuff like a mad dog. I learned my lesson. And for the record I also have the DeWalt rs7491 and love it. The only downside for me is that it's a little hard to set the blade for angle cuts. Thanks for the great advice!

[@Soupboy84]

I’ve realized a cheap blade will cost more than a nice one if you destroy wood, given current prices.

[@Not_TVs_Frank]

My #1 rule for tool purchases is to never buy a tool unless i have a project that really needs it. I've mostly only ended up with small tools that don't follow this rule, either as gifts or in auction lots.

[@BishjamIC]

I'm not a brand spanking new woodworker, 4ish years into the hobby. I started with a Hercules jobsite saw. I just upgraded to the Delta 36-725t2. It is a fantastic saw for my purposes and a very much appreciated upgrade. I did a lot with the Hercules, but my new Delta is a whole different class of animal.

[@CharlesHooper2001]

Great video - I agree with the points that you made. Most of my stationary power tools were purchased second hand at estate auctions, business auctions, and school auctions. When buying used stationary tools, watch for broken or missing parts (and whether or not replacement parts may be purchased), bad bearings and the difficulty of replacing those bearings, worn drive belts, availability of replacement cutters (such as special planer and jointer knives), and the power requirements of the motor (watch for three phase motors, as well as the amperage and voltage requirements). For example, roughly 20 years ago I bought a Delta Unisaw with a 5 HP motor and a 52" Unifence at a school auction. The problems (I knew most of this before purchasing): * The 5 HP motor was a three phase motor. The Unisaws use a unique motor mount, which makes good quality replacement motors expensive (I paid a bit over $300 for a Baldor 3 HP motor, but they are closer to $1000 now). * Someone had pushed the rip fence arm into the blade several times, leaving deep scars in the aluminum. * The assist handle for raising the blade was broken off, and replaced with a wood handle. * The laminated table board that is supposed to be mounted to the right of the saw's table was missing. * The blade guard was missing. * The drive belts were OK, but I really wanted Fenner Drive link belts on the saw to minimize vibration. * The arbor bearings were bad, and it appeared that someone gave up on replacing those bearings. I paid $500 for the saw at the auction, thinking that I had an excellent deal, but ended up spending close to another $1000 replacing the above items minus the blade guard (last year I finally bought a Shark Guard blade guard for about $400 for the saw). Another example: Last year I bought at an estate auction a 1982 Rockwell (Delta) Unisaw with a 1.5 HP motor and a Jetlock ripfence for $110. Like the school auction where I bought the other Unisaw, I was not able to power on the saw to test it. The problems (I did not know about most before purchasing): * The 1.5 HP motor (which draws a rather large 10 amps on 240 volts for only 1.5 HP) had a screw loose in the end cap of the motor, causing a rattling sound when powered on. * The arbor bearings were bad, causing a bit of a grinding noise when the saw was powered on. * The drive belts were worn and starting to split at the seams. * The blade guard was missing. While I paid $110 at the auction for the saw, I ended up paying another $40 to $60 for Japanese made arbor bearings, and $135 for a replacement blade arbor after I damaged the fine threads on the end of the arbor when removing the stuck bearings. I also spent about $30 for a set of Chinese made matched drive belts that were in fact not length matched and had to be replaced with Fenner Drive link belts to eliminate vibration (so added another $60 to the cost). I also added a Shark Guard blade guard for a bit over $430, and a Forrest Woodworker II saw blade for the saw. So, roughly $825 total, not including the Forrest blade. My advice for those tools that will be used at least twice a month is to buy the best tool that you are able to afford. If you are not able to afford the best tool that you need, ask yourself if you wait a few weeks or a few months, if the tool you need will be affordable, and if so, buy the tool today and enjoy using it now. If you see a tool that is interesting, might be fun to use, might be helpful, and will not cause financial hardship, buy the tool and have fun using it. For example, I recently bought a PantoRouter All-In package with a Bosch 2.25 HP router motor. I likely paid more for that one tool than any other tool in my shop, yet I bought it because it appeared to be fun to use, and it is once you discover how to leverage its functionality. I have primarily purchased Whiteside router bits and Forrest saw blades over the last 20+ years, although I have also purchased and been happy with a rip blade from Ridge Carbide, as well as their "super blade" which has a rip profile grind that is designed for flat bottom grooves. It is a nice feeling to be able to support manufacturers that still make products in the USA whenever possible.

[@danmadewoodworking]

That's impressive, breathing new life into those saws!

[@TomBuskey]

I love your focus on space & cost. I'd add that you should figure out what you want to do. I started w/ a cheap table saw & after a year, decided to get a sawstop. But I found I was interested in hand tools and milling my own lumber. So I bought a bandsaw and ended up getting rid of the table saw. I saved space. I rip with it and use a hand saw for rips. If I have sheet goods, I have a circular saw. To get the final finish, I use hand planes. Find out what kind of woodworking you want to do is important. I'm glad I didn't give someone a 50% discount on a sawstop! I like your channel!

[@danmadewoodworking]

😂 yeah, i don't see to many used sawstops for sale, and when i do, they're not 50% off

[@chuckgrumble5440]

If you really want to get cheap, get a combo square, bandsaw, chisels, handsaw, no 4, 5, and 8 bailey planes, winding sticks, and do everything by hand except ripping which can be done on bandsaw. Might take a bit to joint and face plane those boards with hand tools though.

[@danmadewoodworking]

Yeah, hand tools would work... But that's not really what I'm in to right now 😃

[@HGANGHONY]

Excellent. Ditto on the Dewalt 735 planer, I use mine for mill RS wood. Soon after I purchased it I upgraded the from knives to heilex cutter, love it. As a hobbyist I have the 6" Wahuda spiral type bench top jointer, working out just fine.

[@TerryLambert-w4n]

By far these is the BEST recommendations for us regular folks. The sweet spot varies depending on individual circumstances but it comes down to being honest with oneself. I'm 67, spend 15 or so hours a week doing furniture restoration or small projects to learn new skills. There is no way I will ever get enough use out of a Festool anything to justify the cost. However, I do have a 1.75 HP SawStop cabinet saw. The added cost of the safety is less than my insurance co pay for an emergency department visit. Excellent saw, plenty of power with, as you've said, a good blade.

[@danmadewoodworking]

Yeah, that safety feature on the SawStop is hard to beat 😀

[@debandmike3380]

having gone through tool upgrades over the last 25 years I can say for certain the only upgrade that you should start with right away are festool sanders with the dust collector. most other tools can pretty much be any brand. The Domino is also a major contributor to time saving and good construction. It's all about saving time and not having to redo things. Any miter saw will do because you're most likely to finish the edges with a quality sander anyways. a decent table saw helps but is not necessary. Makita track saw it's just as good as festool. I have had them all and use them all. some people get sucked into the brand instead of the result.

[@JPToto]

Great video, Dan! Excellent breakdown. Re: battery operated tools: I almost think about it in terms of buying into a battery systems. I settled on Dewalt and Ryobi. Not because I have any particular brand loyalty, I just don't want 8 different batteries and chargers around. It can also get expensive.

[@jasonoliver6751]

Love the content Danmade! Keep it up! No nonsense videos that aren't really just an ad for a company or tool. Fantastic stuff!

[@danmadewoodworking]

I appreciate that! 😀

[@feron450]

You sir earned yourself a subscriber. I’m setting up my small hobby woodworking shop and this was the best video I’ve seen on dos and donts with tools

[@danmadewoodworking]

Nice! Glad it was helpful 👍🏾😃

[@hdwoodshop]

Great video. Thx for spreading sanity. All of KZbin except for rare places are about going big and expensive. Especially since they’re sponsored to endorse the stuff they show.

[@CharlesGallo]

This really does sum it up. I’m thinking of upgrading my jointer from an old 6” Craftsman, to even a 6” insert head.

[@andrewunderwater2246]

Great vid. I’ve been woodworking for about a year and a half now. I picked up the 6” Mirka random orbit sander about 10 months ago and absolutely love it. Granted, it is very expensive and splurging on high end tools isn’t an absolute necessity… but I had a DeWalt ROS before I started my WW journey, and the DeWalt doesn’t come close to the comfort level and ease of the Mirka… SO MUCH LESS vibration. A sander is the tool that, far and away, one will be clocking the most hours with. If you can afford to only splurge on one tool, let it be a nice sander… your hands will thank you.

[@danmadewoodworking]

Yeah, I agree those sanders are nice, and definitely better than the DeWalt, I just don't think it's necessary for a beginner. My upgrade though was to the Bosch 6 inch, which has been great for me. I don't think I'll be upgrading again any time soon 😃

[@dylanrapp7629]

100% recommend the web planer with spiral (not helical) head. It’s amazing. And sheartak makes a helical head if you want to upgrade, which I’ll do eventually.

[@CobyPachmayr]

Love the straightforward and practical advice

[@monteglover4133]

I have done a resto-mod on the older Craftsman cast iron belt drive table saws new rip fence , miter gauge, starting with a rusty top to a saw who’s accuracy will rival most high end saws. All in $500 or so not counting your time, that was highly satisfying. Now doing a 3rd for our youngest son and a 50’s vintage Delta UniSaw with a sliding table. So look into doing resto-mods of older equipment, ie blade guides for your bandsaw, spiral cutters for your jointer or planer, … As for me in general I prefer corded tools sanders, routers, circular saws, … look into the high quality 12v drills and drivers as they are usually much lighter and smaller than the 18/20v ones

[@abraxxus]

one "pro" of some corded tools is if you are connecting it to a dust collection hose, you are already "on a cord" so there's not so much of a "cordless" aspect to that tool if you get the battery version if you actually use the dust collection on it!

[@jowaldo]

Great video! My favorite new KZbin channel.

[@danmadewoodworking]

Thank you very much 😀

[@tonycosta3302]

Most on my big shop tools are vintage Craftsman machines from the 1950-1960s that I paid $50 each for and restored. They are cast iron, super high quality compared to today’s tools. For $200 total off Craigslist/Marketplace plus the cost of restoring (paint, bearings, etc), I have a table saw with a cast iron top, Beiesmeyer style fence ($150 add on) and router table extension, a band saw, cast iron drill press, and belt/disc sander. It’s not Festool or SawStop, but they do everything I ever need from them. Yesterday, I saw someone giving away an old Craftsman bandsaw and cast iron jointer for $120. If you are willing to put in a little effort, it’s worth it.

[@danmadewoodworking]

Yeah, you can definitely get a lot of use out of a vintage tool if you're willing to put in the work to fix it up. 👍🏾

[@matthewrisley9070]

I can't wait until you have 1Million subs and I can say: "I was here in the beginning!". Your content is great. Keep it up!

[@danmadewoodworking]

I like the way you think, thanks! 😃

[@maxphilips7281]

Thanks for this video. I find that my Milwaukee cordless drill has less power and a lower drill speed than my corded Ryobi drill. However, I use my cordless about 90% of the time on jobs around the house, it is only when I have a lot of drilling to do or drilling into hardwood. With regard to purchasing tools, you can look for local tool lending libraries in your area. I live in the Seattle area, and we have an awesome tool lending library; routers, planers, table saws, everything. The tools are also maintained by knowledgeable staff, but you may find that they still need a little tuning. Lastly, they have a maker's space that is a fully decked out woodworking shop, with experienced people around to help.

[@danmadewoodworking]

yeah, those maker's spaces can be pretty cool, especially if you find a good one. on another note, seattle is beautiful, i visited there earlier this year. mt. rainier was awesome!

[@craigsimons2217]

Love your channel - relatable, practical, and on point.

[@danmadewoodworking]

Thank you!

[@BryanMurphy-v3w]

Great vid Dan. Very good advice about finding 2nd hand tools to outfit a shop.

[@TianRunty]

I wish i could reliably get the dewalt planer here in Scotland. No clue why they don't sell them here our power runs off 230v. Only thing I can think of is the fuse ratings only go to 13A. Still annoying though.

[@danmadewoodworking]

Huh... I didn't know that. Well that sucks.

[@WoodcraftBySuman]

"or heaven forbid, festool..." 🤣

[@danmadewoodworking]

Festool… perish the thought… except for the Domino of course 😂

[@redwoodprosth]

Great video making an excellent point. I might go so far as to offer heading to Harbor Freight for any beginner tool. It might be all you need for your projects. Or you will then have the experience to evaluate a more expensive tool if needed.

[@AWBuilder]

I made a screen shot of your workshop since I like your grey-top workbench and am going to build one soon. Getting ideas. Also, I enjoyed your video.

[@zepwashere]

Extremely helpful to cut through so much of the hype. Great video!

[@tedpuckett2779]

The algorithm landed me on your channel. Really happy to see a channel like yours without feeling lil I’m watching an infomercial. Your editing and camera work is as entertaining as your presentation. Keep it up. As to a brand for my use I went with Craftsman and have been completely happy. As a weekend hobbyist I don’t think I would see any significant difference over a higher cost brand. I also noticed in another f your vids you had HART cabinets. How are those holding up so far. ?

[@danmadewoodworking]

The Hart tool chests have been great so far. I'm not a tool chest expert, but the drawers hold stuff, and they open and close every time, which is all I need them to do 😂. I'd buy them again.

[@krissk77]

I go cheap on tools... some sell because of the brand name... most tools these days come from China or Taiwan.... i hv some tools different brands and colours...same operations..can interchange the parts and im good to go. Cheap is not bad if you know what you are looking for.. SKIL, WEN ,AVID tools are good. Hv several of them.

[@gregoryc5989]

Thanks for the advice.

[@jamieholton870]

Thank you sir I learned the hard way about tools in this hobby. Enjoyed the video and agree with you 100 % on all of it. I hope someone new to this hobby can learn before making my mistakes also.

[@mark2talk2u]

Great video and presentation. Thank you for sharing your insights.

[@Mike-dn4ju]

Fleets wood shop is a temple, no one should be comparing their setup to that.

[@danmadewoodworking]

💯😃

[@jacobhicks7959]

Cheap sandpaper is better for the crap work where it clogs up anyway, the good stuff is for the fine work

[@Not_TVs_Frank]

True that. Gotta sand something to get the nasty paint off it? You better not wreck my purple 3M discs. But please, you're welcome to eat up some of this generic Amazon garbage I bought before I realized that janky sandpaper costs you lots of time. Gotta sand some plain wood? Ok, fine, you can have a 3M. Don't lose it, that's the good stuff

[@michaelduke6026]

Really appreciate your insights! Always look forward to your next videos

[@danmadewoodworking]

Awesome, thanks a lot!

[@Daniel-s6l3r]

The one difference I have is the table saw. I have the Skill 10" job site saw and it is comparable to the Dewalt 10" and is a lot less expensive with the same features.

[@danmadewoodworking]

Yeah, that table saw is nice, and very similar to the Dewalt. But of the few differences, I do like the Dewalt more. But at the price of the Skil, you can't beat it, especially if you catch it on sale!

[@gordonholland3406]

Perfect. Thanks for this video!

[@joshuaparr5883]

Thanks for the knowledge !

[@SmallProjectCentral]

Great video!

[@fin3125]

Very well said

[@johnhuelsenbeck35]

This is really good advice!

[@jimrosson6702]

Great video thanks for sharing as a new woodworker this helps a lot

[@danmadewoodworking]

Great! I'm glad it was helpful. 👍🏾😀

[@Njao6q4vrv73]

You nailed it. Thanks

[@ThunderSqueak]

Since you gave that look like you were stuggling to find where a corded tool has an advantage. My only argument against the battery tools is that when you live in a remote area (for example: Alaska) where many vendors won't ship a battery, how bad battery manufacturing is for the environment, and the overall longevity of the tool. That being said, replacing brushes on a brushed motor is really not difficult and I have only ever had to do it once... on a 38 year old motor on a 12 inch bandsaw. I consider a battery an expensive consumable that wont work properly in colder temperatures. Good video.

[@danmadewoodworking]

Thanks... Those are fair points 😃

[@KOutOfMyYard]

Love this man!!

[@doomedwit1010]

I would have pointed out batteries cost more than tools. Seriously you can sometimes get sets WITH batteries for the same price as just the batteries. They throw in drills and drivers for free. So keep that in mind. That said as a DIYer. I gan get a full day on a single large battery, all my tools. Other than the sander, I run all other battery tools for less than 2 hours in an 8+ hour day. My sander is corded so that might change the calculus. Still if you have a cordless dewalt hand sander, get the dewalt drill because it will come with a battery at a huge discount.

[@davidbryan9988]

Really great videos!

[@danmadewoodworking]

Thanks a lot 🙏🏾😃

[@stevenwilliams4291]

Great content! Thanks.

[@Hansaman58]

I bought a Metabo HPT table saw (on sale) but I did splurge a bit on my Bosch glide miter saw but got a veterans discount. Other than that my tools are not high end or overly expensive. No need for that. Does a Festool drill drill any better than a FLEX tool or Rigid? No. Great video

[@danmadewoodworking]

How do you like the metabo table saw? I was actually thinking about that one back when I bought my DeWalt.

[@Hansaman58]

@ I like it a lot. I had to spend a good amount of time setting it up but it makes accurate cuts. It came with a base with folding legs and wheels to move it around but I may build a mobile base with outfeed for it. But it was a good investment.

[@danmadewoodworking]

@@Hansaman58 nice! Yeah I liked a lot about that saw when I was doing my research 👍🏾😃

[@3s-Woodworking]

I went with ridgid r4550 as my 1st saw. As someone also in a garage space do you recommend using the portable base that comes with said jobsite saw or building a dedicated workbench/ outfeed table for it to sit in.

[@danmadewoodworking]

I thought about the same thing with my jobsite saw. The idea of incorporating it into the workbench is nice, but then you kind of have to clear off your workbench to use your table saw, and you lose some storage underneath the workbench to make room for the saw and the dust hose etc. I probably like the idea better of building something for the saw to sit on that has wheels and drawers, but make it the same height as the workbench so you can still use it as an outfeed table. That way your workbench still functions 100% as a workbench and you have storage underneath your saw that is still mobile.

[@Not_TVs_Frank]

​@@danmadewoodworking- that's exactly what I did. Building the cabinet was a good exercise, too. And of course, now my table saw is portable, my bench can be outfeed if I need it and be bench if I don't.

[@cliff5240]

Subscribed, like you style and information!

[@danmadewoodworking]

Awesome, thank you!

[@brianfoley4328]

Holy Crap...great video, Thanks.

[@danmadewoodworking]

Thanks!

[@RamaSivamani]

Also curious what your opinion on using a membership based maker space shop instead of getting your own tools and setting up a garage shop if there is one fairly close to you.

[@danmadewoodworking]

Yeah, if you have a maker space near you, that can be a great option if you can't, or don't want to, set up your own shop.

[@timh7156]

Wise man

[@lukenalevanko5403]

Great videos! Which Diablo blade for the DWE7491RS? Just got one and am looking at getting a combo blade most likely. Main projects will be small to medium furniture and smaller hobby things (DM Screen). Thanks!

[@danmadewoodworking]

If you're only going to have one blade, I like a 40 tooth general purpose blade (amzn.to/3OUC14p) or a 50 tooth combination blade (amzn.to/3VgP03I). I use the 50 tooth. But if you're going to be doing a fair amount of rip cuts, you probably want to pick up a 24 tooth dedicated ripping blade (amzn.to/4ghamGp). That's the setup I have, a 24 tooth, and a 50 tooth.

[@doomedwit1010]

Yes! A $50 tool with an $80 blade beats a $200 saw with a $40 blade.

[@prestonbain6670]

How much you want for the drum sander?

[@danmadewoodworking]

Not sure yet

[@drumhed]

Killer music

[@janetmob]

As a word nerd, you had me at axiom.

[@danmadewoodworking]

@@janetmob 😂 Nice!

[@milfordbass]

Using good common sense in tool acquisition...who knew you could do THAT!😂

[@bmwcubs42]

(choke choke) Dewalt is good... but I would go Oliver in a minute.

[@danmadewoodworking]

I hear ya, but the Oliver is a bit more expensive. Would you still choose the oliver over the Dewalt with a helical head?

[@MrHf4l]

The dw735x literally does nothing meaningfully different than the 734.

[@danmadewoodworking]

Well, the 735 has a stronger motor, more knives, more speeds, more robust construction, and can plane (slightly) larger stock. To be fair though, that may not be meaningful to everyone, but it is objectively a better machine.

[@MrHf4l]

@@danmadewoodworking and none of it allows a deeper or higher quality cut. They are both lunch box quality planers.

[@RohitKulshreshtha]

The real cost is the wood though.

[@jeff1872t]

Great way to organize decision making. I just got into hand planes because my cheap Wen jointer isn't really cutting it.

[@johnhubbard6262]

T.A.P. I like it