Drive Belt Replacement for a 2009 Audi S5 4.2 Liter V8

I replace the drive belt on my 2009 Audi s5. There is only one external belt on this particular engine that runs the alternator. In order to reach the belt tensioner, the front bumper has to be removed and the front frame has to be pulled back. I also reinstall the air box, replace the air filter, and reinstall the front bumper.
How to remove the front bumper: • Front Bumper Removal o...
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[@exposingdemocrats8370]

Make a service position video, that’s a HUGE need. Once one knows how to perfect service position, it’ll will never need help again. The 4.2 are simple in that form

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

If I have to pull the whole front end off including the radiator, I will definitely make that video.

[@jeffmeale7438]

MIne was shredding the alternator belts. I found that a previous mechanic had accidentally bent the flat arm that the idler pulley is mounted on and it had become misaligned. I removed and carefully straightened the arm and it stopped the belts from shredding.

Brilliant work! Keep it up! Would you like to be KZbin friends? :]

[@jonahlucky3375]

What a coinsidence. My serpentine belt went last week. I think 1 of my pulleys have a slight damage on it. Good Technic, But i wont be doing it...Hell no. but i can see why most of the the garages don't want to know about tackling them..... Good Vlog. Need a bit more lighting

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

Oh wow! That's crazy. How many miles are on yours? The job isn't really that hard, just more time consuming. I got a kit from ecs tuning that came with the belt, tensioner, and pulley. I would definitely replace all 3. The other day my check engine light came on for the first time. I scanned it and found out that the engine mount solenoid was bad. Apparently these cars have sensors on the engine mounts and the mounts have liquid inside of them. When they go bad, the liquid starts to leak and trips the sensor. I will probably do both mounts. I found out that there is a performance mount that u can get that doesn't contain any liquid, so may go with that one. If I do a video on it, I'll try to have better lighting. Thanks for subbing!!!

[@jonahlucky3375]

@@ChiliDippaGolf No probs Bro thanks for the tips.... she done 100K now, wheres things need changing. there's a lot of stopping and starting in London uk so a good blow out doesn't come Very often. oh well Keep them coming

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

@@jonahlucky3375 lol nothing beats the good ole Italian tune up! Speaking of that, I'm sure my car is due for a carbon clean out. I may have to do a video on me trying to attempt a walnut blast. 👊

[@primetime172]

Chili Dippa Golf please do vid on that would like to know how ! 😀

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

I definitely will and should be soon!

[@dudi8035]

Is it the same on Audi RS5 2011?

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

Its should be the same procedure to remove the front bumper. I'm not so sure about other parts that may need to be removed to give you access to the belt tensioner.

[@SK8TERadii]

Anyone that is doing the alternator and Struggling to figure how to get the Tensioner off after removing the spring at the very Bottom of the tensioner there’s a bolt that uses a m12 Triple square when it brakes free you make think you stripped it But keep turning there is a hidden inner bolt

[@primetime172]

You can also just remove lock cover free up the power steering line and slide the rad out a bit and u have lots of room

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

Thats a good point. I never thought about that. I remember not wanting to pull back the radiator too far because of the cooler lines. But the more I can get the radiator out of the way the easier it is to get to the belt and pulleys. Thanks for sharing!

[@primetime172]

Chili Dippa Golf I was able to slide it out a good amount without doing any damage at all. Bit tricky sliding rad out tho, you have to go lift side out first then right and just let the rad site on the edge. I was able to remove the belt tensioner so I can get the ATL out this way.

[@primetime172]

Just change belt, pully, ATL

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

Nice! I was worried that I might have had to replace the alternator because of some oil and belt residue on it but I cleaned it up good. I would definitely have to pull the radiator back farther to remove it.

[@iansmyth7914]

@@primetime172 Attempting to replace my alternator right now in my garage to save some money (and gain some experience). It's giving me hell to be honest. I just can't get enough room to access the alternator. Trying not to have to disconnect any hoses besides the coolant like he said in the video (I honestly don't know what all the hoses exactly do and I don't want one to start spraying everywhere or something lol). Maybe I'll give this a whirl if it worked for you / if I can figure out exactly what you mean. I'm not that experienced but trying my best lol

Nice content! Keep it up! Would you like to be KZbin friends? :]

[@beereal247]

Thanks very much.

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

Absolutely!

[@joshuaspike5348]

Great video thanks!

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

Thank you Joshua! I need to do more vids on the S5!

[@chancegresham8438]

I’m about to change the belt for mine as well, and I already have a new rad to put in as well. Are all the lines Coolent or really can I just pull them all and let it drain? I just need some pointers on replacing it if you don’t mind. 😁

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

I didn't have to remove any coolant lines. I just pulled the front back far enough to reach the belt and tensioner. If you had to take the entire front off then you're probably dealing with coolant and AC lines. I'm in the process right now of replacing the thermostat and it's a pain to get to one of the bolts. Definitely the hardest t-stat that I have done.

[@davidmiller1115]

So I've been watching your video because My belt just snapped on mine today but what I can't tell is what tool are you using to ease up on the tentioner pulley? Where does the tool connect to on the tentioner? Thanks!

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

Hey David! I just bought a basic belt tensioner tool from a local auto store. Its a long flat stick that has a opening and also a sqaure bit that sticks out close to the end of the tool. The sqaure bit that sticks out will fit into the sqaure opening of the tensioner. I also had to use a hollow aluminum pipe to slide over the tool so I could get better leverage when installing the new belt. Hope that helps.

[@moneymikeslickwill8749]

I love my audi S5 need to clean the intakes

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

What's up Money Mike! Yeah I need to do that soon as well. I had to replace both intake actuators and one of them I had to remove the intake to get to it. Taking the intake off was actually a lot easier then I anticipated it to be. Are you going to try to walnut blast the intake valves?

[@nolimitrc1]

You changed a drivebelt im looking at an altenator i have to swap any pointers?

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

I replaced my alternator as well. My main pointer is to have plenty of patience. I was able to remove it without having to pull the radiator out. I had to pull the nose out as far as it would go without stretching any hoses and that was just enough room to get to the bolts. One of the alternator bolts is behind the tensioner so that will have to come off. Also the only way that the alternator will come out is from the side, right next to the passenger side wheel. You'll have to take the wheel and some of the guards off under that fender to get access. Its a really tight fit under there. Took me some time to work it out. I think I pulled the back of the alternator out first. Putting in back in is easier but getting the bolts to line up is a bit of a pain. Good luck with it!

[@logobot]

What about that “service mode” you mentioned? And given the level of pain in the ass, you recommend belt, tensioner and alternator? I got 70K ml.

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

Service mode is just what they call taking the front bumper off to have access to the front part of the engine. I would definitely recommend replacing the belt, tensioner and pulley while you're in there. I replaced my alternator around 120k mainly because it was covered in oil. It's a bit of a pain to get it out and you have to pull back the inner part of the passenger side fender to remove it. I wouldn't replace it unless there is something wrong with it.

[@logobot]

@@ChiliDippaGolf thank you. I replaced all that + alternator.

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

@@logobot Very nice! How many curse words did it take to pull that alternator? I just had to replace both vacuum purge valve solenoids that were causing a check engine light. Intake manifold flaps were stuck closed bank 1 and 2. Of course these solenoids are located under the intake, so I had to pull that. 1st time that I had to remove the intake and it was actually not that bad. Just have to remove some fuel lines, connectors, and a few small hoses. I didn't have time to clean the valves but they didn't look too bad. I'll have more confidence when its time to do a walnut blast knowing that the intake removal isn't that hard.

[@charalabosparis]

How often we have to change this belt?

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

Probably 30-50k miles. Whenever you see cracks on the inner side of the belt, its time to change it.

[@user-uh4vh7jm8h]

Do you need to jack the car and take the wheels off for this to work? I have my bumper cover off, all the bolts after that off and the 1 coolant line disconnected but the rail won’t budge. Any tips?

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

I've heard of people removing the bumper without having to remove the wheels but I find it much easier to take off with the wheels off. What rail are you talking about?

[@user-uh4vh7jm8h]

@@ChiliDippaGolfthe large metal one you need to slide away from the car in order to get to the belt, the headlights have a lot of wiggle but the bit behind them has little to no.

[@user-uh4vh7jm8h]

Im wondering if there’s something besides the coolant line and bolts in the video that needs to be taken off so it slides, maybe some vacuums?

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

I didn't have to remove any vacuum lines or coolant lines except the skinny one that connects to the reservoir. If you removed all the bolts you should be able to slide the frame that holds the radiator back just far enough where you will have a bit more room to get to the tensioner. You may have to lift and pull at the same time. Just remember to put something underneath the frame for it to rest on. If the frame won't move then there must be a bolt that needs to be removed. There is 4 large bolts on the front number frame, and then the smaller ones under the fenders and top of the radiator frame. Headlights should stay in tact.

[@user-uh4vh7jm8h]

@@ChiliDippaGolfohh gotcha, thanks!

[@timhill6054]

It seems, to me, that it may be easier to go in from under the car. That tensioner is down toward the bottom.

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

It may be a little easier from underneath but the car needs to on a rack. Wish I had one of those.

[@primetime172]

You can’t get it from the bottom I tried. The sub frame is in the way.

[@iansmyth7914]

So the tensioner tool goes right on that bolt right? It was a little hard to see exactly where is was connected to

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

You have to remove the belt tensioner to access one of the alternator bolts. You should replace the tenssioner, belt, and pulley if you have done that in a while.

[@iansmyth7914]

@@ChiliDippaGolf It only has 40k miles and its been really well kept so I feel like the other components are okay for now. But wow, didn't realize I have to take belt the tensioner off all together but that makes sense the way it sits behind it a little. Thanks for the reply, any information you can give is like invaluable at this point because I don't know totally what I'm working with. How do I get more room to get down and in there to remove the tensioner and alternator? Is removing the radiator the way to go?

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

You'll have to remove the front bumper to put it into service mode. Just watch my vid on the front bumper removal. There are 8 bolts that hold the front frame on. Once you remove those you'll be able to pull the radiator back far enough to get access to the tensioner and the alternator bolts. It's still gonna be tight but you'll have just enough room. You'll also have to remove the passenger side wheel and pull back the splash guard under the fender were the alternator is. I removed the tensioner, then the alternator bolts, then removed some wire clamps behind the fender next to the alternator so I would have room to pull it out, then I used a crow bar to move the alternator so I could remove the wires connected to it. From there I pulled the alternator out with the front of it coming out first.

[@iansmyth7914]

@@ChiliDippaGolf Okay thanks, yeah I watched your bumper video like 50 times before I took mine off it was a ton of help. I have it jacked up with the bumper off and both wheels off right now. I'm going to dive back into it in the morning, really appreciate the info! I'll let you know how it goes lol

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

Awesome Ian! It's actually pretty easy to do once you do it a few times. I think I have removed the front frame at least 4 times. Just make sure u put some thing under that front frame to support it when you remove the bolts. You don't want to damage any cooler lines or other things. You can pull it straight back about 5 inches or so. Make sure the battery is disconnected as well. Good luck and I'll let me know how it goes.

[@kbrown1350]

Is it my imagination or is that green coolant in the expansion tank?

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

Yeah its green. I dont use the extended life stuff. Works just as good plus I flush it every once in a while.

[@jessevillasana9568]

How many hours to replace it?

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

Not sure what the book says but It should take 1-2 hours to replace.

[@miguelstats8185]

I thought the whole engine needed to come out???

[@ChiliDippaGolf]

Not for the drive belt. The engine may need to be pulled for the timing chain though.

[@Praetoriany]

Useless clip. Nothing clear