Drydock - Changing the propeller

Royalty Class Narrowboat Victoria gets a new prop. This video shows all the operations of the dry dock at Bulbourne run by Jem Bates. The rudder was being straightened in the metal workshop at Bulbourne, and was put on later, using the depth of the lock to pull it in from underneath to save having to split the rudder from the stock.

[@JohnSmith-pd1fz]

Very interesting to watch and very pleasing to see a blacksmith's forge still in use.

[@novakattila]

Thank god, a video with no music or unneccessary talking

[@lordbelvoir2543]

And not alot of anything to be fair🤔

[@mikebrase5161]

I would have never put a washer on before I put the nut on. Should be using two nuts in a lock and jam put the cotter pin in and done. Also if you use a block of wood between the hull and the blade tip when tightening it down you don't put any strain on the transmission. Beautiful Boat, beautiful drydock. I've been building and repairing propellers for 30 years.

[@mykaskin]

I think a lot of canal boats have this set up, I think it's often because of the amount of stuff around the prop, the fresh water and that the prop is so close to the water surface, and the small props and low power of the engines.

[@bill3641]

That dry dock is just genius simple . Gotta love the flow of fluids.

[@sghsdhdkfh]

and the old propeller looks fine

[@gyrojomo]

While its obvious the artistic crew have no boating in their souls, the director does an amazing job of keeping them on point. That is one excellent doco; one that I'll continue to watch for pure enjoyment once I have fully absorbed the data I was looking for. Very well done.

[@train4905]

Fascinating.I reallyvenjoyed that.thankyou kindlyfor posting.

[@paulshrew]

the house opposite was the setting for the 1964 film called the Bargee, with Harry H Corbett, Eric Sykes and Ronnie Barker in, great film about the cut if you can find it on the internet

[@trueblue2124]

Great job - great video -thank you!

[@mykaskin]

The old one was too small to load up the engine, so the new one will give the engine some work to do. Diesels prefer working hard, and I can get more power from the engine into the water where I need it!

[@sghsdhdkfh]

nice 3 blade propeller

[@mickcarson8504]

What a beautifully designed prop (2:45). Also, that shaft bushing should have been replaced.

[@abgchaqq]

Good job...keep it up

[@MackMateCom]

Interesting video thanks

[@mrcrabass3669]

You never lap a bronze prop as the bronze will retain the lapping compound .the correct way is to blue and scrape the fit

[@Zeamus634]

@mykaskin Will it have much effect on the performance of the engine spinning a larger, heavier prop?

[@stevemitz4740]

I think one should leave the nut on [but backed off] till the screw / prop is lose & free ! You might "think" that nut just screwed off by hand & the prop just easily slid off, but I don't ! The old prop looked okay to me!

[@geograph1000]

should have replaced that bearing while you were there, you won't be able to "keep your eye on it" once its back in the water.

[@mykaskin]

It's actually still OK, with it turning so slowly (600 rpm flat out). However narrowboats should come out for blacking every couple of years.

[@geofftaylor5036]

Why no rudder fitted before re-filling the dock?

[@telosfd]

Nice job guys. Where is the rudder?

[@lloydpenfold9477]

OK, simple question from a non-boater. Could jobs like this be done in the water? Or is canal water not safe to be in?

[@jayswarrow1196]

Holy cow, i thought the old one was a soup mixer, but it was full-on meat chopper :O The new one looks like a log shredder. 'grats with the update (even tho it was a decade ago))

[@petersaupe7455]

When we changed props on RAF launches we took out the key and lapped the props on.There is a special compound that will not enbed in the prop.The nut was done up and undone with a flogging spanner, pretty hard. The old props would not knock off with sledgehammers and the pullers supplied were useless. We used a large bulk of hardwood and it took three of four of us to pick the wood up and give the prop boss a solid whack.The good thing was as the prop was supported in a p bracket we could get at it.You had to make sure the prop shaft was packed against the stern stuffing box with a special clamp or you would pull the shaft out and hit the rudder. The shaft gearbox coupleing was always disconected before the boat was taken out of the water as the boat changed shape on the trolly.

[@78a67h]

I think a lot of stages of the work were not shown like how the prop was dislodged from the shaft, an old prorp would not pull off by hand. Also I think the nut was overtighened. Prudent to use a torque wrench to make sure no damage comes to the shaft threads.

[@mykaskin]

Believe or not it just came off like that! Remember it's fresh water not seawater.

[@Femmpaws]

Mykaskin I believe you. You and I would both agree something was not right with the install to start with. The prop was on a long tapered shaft it being in fresh or salt water doesn't matter. I have worked at couple of chandlery/boatshop and have pulled a few sailboat props off with nothing more than my hands once I pulled the cotter key... each time I could move the prop on the shaft taper. Sometimes you could just feel it to an 1/8 of an inch between the prop and nuts. The only thing stopping the prop nut from coming off was the cotter key. They all wondered why they had a bad rumble when they were using reverse. I think someone got distracted and didn't get the nut torqued up where is should have been, over time the prop walked side to side slightly on the shaft each time it was shifted in and out of gear, causing it to be loose on the shaft. All prop keyway's have a few thousandths clearance to help with installing it on the shaft. With proper taper shaft fitment, the taper and proper torqued fasteners they will take the full torque loads of prop and shaft. The keyway is only there to make sure the shaft doesn't spin in the prop if someone doesn't get the fasteners tight enough for the friction engagement of the taper.

[@P61guy61]

Good video. Thanks for posting. By the way, one of these men’s laughs and sounds a little like Fred Dibnah to me.

[@AA-69]

THE BLIND LEADING THE BLIND 😖

[@martyspargur5281]

Fascinating. I was waiting for the prop to be stuck when you grabbed ahold of it but apparently you knew it wouldn't. Maybe these blokes have done this a time or two. Since you are kind enough to answer the comments, my question is, what does 74x67 equate to in inches? Or is it cm/rev pitch which gives me 29-1/8 × 26-3/8 for the old one. That's a far cry from 28x16. Because it seems more pitch (and diameter) would be the one that makes the engine work harder. Thanks. And yes there's a fair amount of play in the back end but so what. Is there what we call a flexible stuffing box in there? That is, a short piece of rubber hose between the log casting and the packing? Being an iron hull, is the casting inside even made of bronze? We are seeing a lot of "dripless" bellows on this side of the pond, but I'm really not crazy about them. And i did not realize that lapping paste was unsuitable for copper alloy. Wish i had known that when i was a kid: "Sorry boss, i actually Can't lap these 27 seacocks by quitting time!". Cheers!

[@SthealthRaider]

Thats one huge ass prop! For such an boat

[@gillesmaljournal7769]

Il ne contrôle pas le jeu de l'arbre ? Il y a au moins 25 / 10 eme il faudrait changer le pesse étoupe et le bague, et contrôler roulements et alignement non ?

[@bargeeboy]

Hope the new one is on tighter the the 'old' one !

[@kenwheeler6150]

Just keep pulling on that spanner until you fart.

[@tennydwyer4613]

That’s a nice ass prop 👍🏽

[@jonc4403]

There's an XKCD for that... xkcd.com/37/

[@justinkovatch1946]

No heating of the wheel?????

[@yunassaxer7119]

great!

[@40cleco]

No grease or lube on the shaft before putting the prop on? Should you not lap the prop on the shaft to get a good seat between the prop and the shaft?

[@kenwheeler6150]

Never ever grease or lube the shaft before putting the prop on and never lap a bronze prop as the lapping paste will embed itself in the soft bronze. If you really want to you could blue and scrape it but you would be wasting your time as the revs and power put into it will not be a problem, if you really are worried about it you could ad a LITTLE heat to the prop boss to give a little shrink fit but it really isn't necessary, just get it clea and get it tight

[@mykaskin]

See the size from the old one to the new one? The old was too small by half!

[@robtebay1]

I'm told my cast Bolinder prop is too big for the Kelvin J3, causing max rev in forward to be less than manufacturer intended. And it makes the engine run cooler (low-pressure cooling system without thermostat). But I love it!

[@mykaskin]

@@robtebay1 over prop'ing is common on canal boats which allows lower engine revs. A J3 is more than enough power for most uses, and you'll never get such an engine up to heat on a canal anyway!

[@SillyPutty3700]

Did you just install a common steel washer between the Bronze nut and Prop?

[@rhigel2269]

What's it to you, mate? A little electrolysis is not so bad.

[@rhigel2269]

I. rob You are correct!

[@BrassLock]

All this happened 6 years ago, were the Armchair Engineers correct in their predictions that the prop should have been lapped and the bearings should have been replaced etc, etc ??

[@rayswann7618]

@goinghomesomeday1 one piece of advice for you, keep taking the tablets

[@tjj300]

I think everyone is wondering how long that bearing lasted since the install.

[@mykaskin]

It's still going, but needs a bit of grease to stop it leaking. It is moving a little more these days, but that was thousands of miles ago, and two prop refurbishes since!

[@tjj300]

@@mykaskin Thanks for the reply. Very nice to see that you still check comments on videos this old.

[@olivermulliss7114]

Why does the prop need refurbishing? Replacing? Hitting rocks in the cut?

[@cobrasvt347]

Better watch out ! Ya might pull the world in half with that

[@jasonbrant6394]

What's the size of the new prop . I have a jp2 pushing a 23 tonn boat with a 30 inch draft using a 24 inch prop seems a bit small to me ??

[@mykaskin]

39 inch draft, 18 tonnes empty, 28 inch originally, reduced to 27 inch later for better loaded performance. It's not about the size of the prop however, but also the pitch. A 24x24 would give the some push as a 28 x 16 approx.

[@charlestlawson6806]

How you gonna control the boat with NO rudder ?

[@mykaskin]

Because of it's length, the rudder could not be fitted in the dry dock - and we needed the depth of the lock along side to get it in. This was just to check out the new prop!

[@labarone8910]

My goodness! The Armchair Experts have been busy. No sooner offerring helpful hints to Gordon Ramsey on to how to cook then swiftly over here to 'advise' on narrow boat prop fitting. Still, it's good to stay active I suppose. Two things, firstly I was amazed at the good condition of your old prop matched only by the sight of your new one which looks huge! I hope the trusty Lister will be up to it. Would be interested to know the outcome of your prop swap, and perhaps the Experts can chime in too. It wouldn't be the same without them would it?

[@mykaskin]

La Barone kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2aYkn2rpth0o6M shows how well she went with this prop. I took an inch off the diameter later as it was over propped for loaded and towing work, but just perfect for an empty boat.

[@Vsshooter]

Where's the RUDDER?

[@mykaskin]

Off for straightening.

[@TugboatMatt]

was that poop floating in the drydock near the begining??

[@welshpete12]

no, weed

[@abstrahujacod5130]

How much does a new propeller cost?

[@mykaskin]

I paid around £700 for that one, but it all depends on size, and quality. It's quite a cheap chinese prop, so the hub is quite small and the blades not overly thick. I later too an inch off the diameter and it's done me great since as it's less likely now to get in the muck and the blade edges are thicker.

[@abstrahujacod5130]

@@mykaskin Choosing the right propeller is a difficult thing. Is the boat faster now? I am in Poland dealing with the repair of stationary engines on yachts and boats, so I'm interested in everything. See my movie with engine repair Yanmara Yse8g, head making, new rings and the engine is 40 years old 🙂 kzbin.info/www/bejne/e2fdfGuZgMprq6c

[@dentonsbackyardshow1013]

Need to put a rope guard around shaft and thats a right handed wheel .

[@Zeamus634]

Why were you changing the prop?

[@willythompson802]

Was that launched without the rudder installed or did I miss something?

[@mykaskin]

No you didn’t miss something. The rudder being straighten needed to be brought in from below, and the dry dock isn’t deep enough. It was put in the top lock and using ropes pulled into position for connection to the tiller.

[@antonyanmar1111]

A propeller removed by hand...!!! Some people work in this way too....

[@clementgoetke2385]

everything is so loose and sloppy but i guess it dont matter since everything is slow turning on these boats

[@mikepayen9441]

Try cleaning the shaft before putting on the new prop, would stay on tighter than before.

[@welshpete12]

not necessary

[@decoysk]

was that feces floating in the water ?

[@mykaskin]

+decoysk Unlikely. Dead weed probably, comes out of the rarely used Tring arm.

[@ninocampobasso5284]

Rudder????

[@dougshirley3460]

OMG!!! That was WAY too easy. Try removing a prop from a boat that has been warm saltwater kept for a few years. First you have to chip & scrape off the coral. Then you have to dissolve what is left with muriatic acid. Pull the split pin, separate the lock nut seized onto the holding nut, struggle with the holding nut, which itself is seized, beat, curse & use a proper prop puller to get the prop off, struggle to get the key out of the keyway. A days work simply to remove the beast.

[@raincoast2396]

Work smarter, not harder = liquid wrench.

[@pjneslo8979]

Those weren't feces or turds floating in the beginning of the video?

[@rhigel2269]

Of course, they were. It is England, man. We do shitty things like that, especially in Scotland.

[@Objectification]

This makes me hate my office job

[@chamelcalzeta]

The propeller: take advantage without ICE using nylon propeller, the engine works very ligth, economy more than 40% of fuel, the nylon propeller life spam is very short; if is continuous use the life is 1 year, this diameter of propeller cost is not more than USD$30.- with delivery look in aliexpress (for winther propeller must brass only) the shaft bearing try with rubber; is better by far than brass or nylon; the nut/screw is better the castle/nut provide more point for crossing the safety nail; after cover the nut and safety nail with putty with form of cone; this is avoid to lost the nail also avoid to hook some trash or lines with the safety nail exposed.. the better putty is marine putty (can use underwater)

[@workingboat]

Was that turds floating by

[@mykaskin]

Leaves and weed. No black water allowed in the canal.

[@michaelteeple8704]

So many geniuses, so little to complain about. Commenters acting like this is a hydroplane. The prop, came off without a puller and slid right on, what do you think lapping makes the prop taper smaller. Lapping stainless on brass or bronze for a sloppy fit prop that makes ten knts or so. And some hated that the rudder was on the workbench instead of the boat. I mainly stay away from people these days, they are way too smart for a dumbass like me. They would rather fondle the prop than drive the boat i guess.

[@ccjohncc1]

It is amazing how people will make critical comments when they posses no marine experience.

[@aubreyaub]

Yeah. I mean why change the prop at all!

[@billyjenkins2467]

What about the rudder 🙋‍♂️

[@delboytrotter8806]

Did you see those richards floating about!

[@welshpete12]

nope , it looks like but an't !

[@sandrogregori6057]

gia che era smontata l'elica potevano controllare o sostituire la boccola ......

[@garundip.mcgrundy8311]

DIY means "Do It Yourself."

[@grahamhawthorn7177]

Why don't they make them out of Stainless Steel ?

[@justbreakingballs]

Bronze is easier to work with and cast. It also resists water life growing on it.

[@mykaskin]

Manganese Bronze propellers are cheaper, and because of low spin speeds (600 RPM on my boat) it doesn't need the strength. Also because it is likely to hit things in the water it deforms and reduces the stress on the drive chain.

[@mickcarson8504]

If the propeller was invented in Roman days, can you imagine all those slaves lives being saved? No more oars. Hooray!

[@mk84ldb]

No more rowers, no more "ramming speed!" commands. Bummer.

[@KingdaToro]

Oh, they'd still have slaves, they'd just be turning pedals instead of rowing. A propeller is useless without something to spin it.

[@anthonyjohnramsey]

no rudder

[@mykaskin]

Off to be straightened. I didn't get any film of them doing it unfortunately

[@carmelpule6954]

Tightening the nut like that could bend that shaft. A castellated nut would easily have been made. I did not see any rudder. That new propeller is good but I prefer a four bladed one where both the leading and trailing edge of the blade rake back.

[@kenwheeler6150]

Carmel Pule: I have worked on canal boats for forty years and have only seen one four blade prop. Three is the norm, four are far too expensive for the increase in efficiency and if you need one in a hurry there is normally a lead time as nobody in the canal supply will have one in stock, You ask for an 18 X 12 prop and if you don't specify four blade it will arrive with three,

[@kenwheeler6150]

Carmel Pule: Looks like a two inch shaft with the end reduced to one and a half, have you ever tried to bend one of these by hand? Who are you ADAM BOOTH (Abom)

[@carmelpule6954]

ken Wheeler, yes I do agree, but these days it is easy to get one delivered. That is a nice propeller much better than the old one and the manner the old one came off so easily, I would not be surprised that it was rocking on the shaft with the key width smaller than the slot.

[@laurentmoha2823]

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@albertaheiserer4443]

Yuck.. floaters at 1:22. disgusting. The release of raw sewage in USA waterways has been banned since 1979. No lubricant, no sacrificial Zincs. Bad bearing goes un-replaced also a steel washer. are they insane?

[@lloydpenfold9477]

Read previous comments. The 'floaters' are weed clumps, not turds.

[@vaughanellis7866]

Nice Drydock design, no pumping to empty it. The guy wielding the spanner had me cringing - an adjustable !!! Use the proper spanner man !! If I'd done that while working on boats I'd have been shot and why the hell didn't the deal with that sloppy stern gland at the same time the way it was rocking it was well out of spec.

[@martyspargur5281]

Now i I were replacing this wheel, the video would be more like 9 hours and 14 minutes, not to mention that the kiddies would learn some new words, because i would have filmed the part where you line up the split pin hole with the nut!

[@lloydpenfold9477]

I think they drilled a new hole.

[@jamesmckay9966]

I don't know any thing about propellers but I would certainly would have done it differently. Don't let Keith Fenner or some one like him see this. Jim in Boise Idaho

[@mk84ldb]

I like Keith Fenner videos

[@CosgroveNotts]

Looks like a load of amateurs messing with no tackle.

[@tyroniousyrownshoolacez2347]

Couldn't agree more. Was thinking the same thing.

[@fklftman74]

Watching these guys pull up on a wrench instead of getting on the other side and putting their weight down. How stupid. Lose a nut while tightening a nut. Some people always do it the hard way.

[@scottwhitley3392]

This annoyed me as well

[@tyroniousyrownshoolacez2347]

Floating shit lock no.1, no torque wrenches need here.

[@russellkerfoot5423]

JESUS. You didn`t clean the propshaft up. The propshaft bearing should have been replaced. And why take it out of drydock without a rudder. Half ass job.

[@mykaskin]

When you say clean the prop shaft what do you mean? I could have replaced the bearing then, but it's still going strong after years (About 11 years) of commercial use so getting my money's worth. The rudder is shown being straightened which is why it's off.

[@mykaskin]

The rudder can't be fitted in the dry dock as it needs to be fitted from underneath. So it is done in the lock next door which has the depth to do it.