Dual Burners Explained - DCS

This video reveals the low intensity and high intensity circuits on a DCS dual burner head. Many high end cook tops and stoves use these types of setups. A fuel conversion involves swapping the orifices.

[@moezillamoe]

Hey Frank. Thanks for the explanation. Have been burning up pans for years because I didn't know about that tiny notch in the cap, and also didn't know about the simmer circuit!

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. Yes, as you can see, there are actually two orifices that control this burner head. What DCS does with flame is an art that only they have mastered. I actually make these custom orifices on a lathe for both natural gas and propane. I bore the specific channel sizes for both inlet and outlet, then bore the needed aperture (orifice - hole) to recreate the flame front that DCS is known for.

[@capt3450]

Thank you very much. fixed my tick..tick problem. just clean the tiny orifice (with my guitar string)

[@peenockquill8195]

Thx for the explanation and dissection. Your video is helpful…even though this world has drastically changed for the worse. Who would figure that. God bless

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is a relatively simple affair. I have brass parts for every burner system made, including all orifices, venturi tubes, along with top and bottom brass retainer nuts. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to call me during normal midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. You can also visit my website at www.flamesources.com

[@joanhurst5801]

Thanks Frank for your help!

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.

[@user-jt7qv6pk5w]

Finally a video that address the DCS clicking. Unfortunately I can't get the brass nut off. It's basically crumbling in my wrench. But thanks for the great video!

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. That's a common issue. It's not uncommon for one or two burners to be used more than the rest. Given the differential expanding the shrinking of the different metals involved, the brass nuts and venturi often times get glued to the venturi holder. There's still hope. I have a lot of people contact me because they still want to have the benefit of breathing new life into this model. You'll can bore out the venturi until the metal is thin enough to collapse. It's a venturi, so the metal in the middle is thicker than the metal on either end. If you've spun the burner around, the fuel lines have been damaged, but GE has put enough fuel line in these units to allow you to using a tubing cutter to trim the tube back, reinstall the nut and the ferrule, then reattach it to a rebuilt burner assembly. I have any brass parts that you can possibly damage including the venturi, the upper nut, the lower nut, and both orifices. The venturi holder itself is still in production and still available. The clicking you've experienced is due to one or more of the spark ignitors shorting out to the chassis. I have a fix for that too: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZ-6en-Lo8tla68 You'll definitely want to fix any sparking issue because, eventually, a constant sparking condition will cause the spark module to burn out.

[@jbcraig8]

Great video Frank. I have a question, I’ve recently picked up an older DCS CS 485GDSS cooktop. It’s set up for Natural gas of course, but I need to convert to LP for an outdoor kitchen. Unfortunately DCS no longer makes these and does not supply an LP conversion kit any longer. Nor will they tell me the appropriate office size... wondering if you might make these orifices or if you would be willing to point me in the right direction. Thanks!

[@frankhamilton8257]

DCS is not very helpful when it comes to "customer support." I've likely converted every legacy model built at one time or another, and I likely have orifices for every type of DCS there is, so give me a call at 714-574-1544. I'm now in the Midwest, so call during normal Midwest business hours.

[@markfranks4272]

Hi Frank thanks for the great vids for DCS ranges . I have a RDT366 model which i have have destroyed the

[@markfranks4272]

Burner trying to remove the venturi . I am sure everything connected underneath has been twisted and or broken . I have watched your vids on this and you have said you need to crimp the new gas line in place would you suggest a tech for this or is is possibly a DIY job . Would you have a list of parts you have available? Also this model seems very difficult to disassemble i have tried and felt it was time to say uncle before i did any additional damage. How would the new burner parts on this model go in , the front panel on this model hadnumerous electrical connections that seemed to daunting to take apart . Thanks for anyhelp you vids were very informative ,

[@ambharbor]

Frank, Many thanks for the video! We have a RGS-305 DCS range. Have clicking going on on the left-front burner after it lights. All other burners turn off after lighting. I noticed that the simmer ring has partial flame coming out in the front part of the ring but not in the rear where the igniter is located. I'm thinking that this is why the igniter stays clicking. I took off the top 2 pieces and then removed the nut in the center orifice but can't seem to pull up the simmer ring. Are there any other nuts holding this in place or just that one brass nut in the center venturi? Again, thank you for the video. Very instructive.

[@frankhamilton8257]

The venturi is actually screwed into the "orifice holder," the L shaped bracket underneath that holds the main orifice. If it's hard to untwist it from the orifices holder, you might have to hit it with PB blaster for a few days to let it penetrate into the threads. If it's still stuck, you'll need to use more drastic methods of removal, possibly including the breakage of parts. Contact me if you damage the venturi tube, because I have the pattern and can machine a replacement.

[@patriciaseid4107]

Thanks Frank!! That explanation of the burner is superb. I have had a decrease in intensity for one burner of the high intensity flame. Any idea why??

[@frankhamilton8257]

I would suspect an obstruction in the burner, gas tube or gas circuit. Start by disassembling the burner, then work your way back through the tube, inspect the orifice to make sure that it is free of debris, then work your way to to the gas valve itself. You might blast the parts out "backwards" with compressed air to assure that nothing has become lodged in the tubes or valves involved.

[@PirateBob]

Hi Frank. Thanks for the video. Very helpful. Do I need to shut off the gas supply to the stove before opening up the burner?

[@frankhamilton8257]

It's always a good idea to shut off the fuel supply when doing anything with a stove as a matter or precaution.

[@thomasadams6111]

We purchased our DCS range used and it works great, but the burner controls seem to only adjust the flame for the first one or two marks on the knob after which the burners are fully on. As a result it is really hard to increase or decrease the flame size since the burners are fully on for most of the turning radius of the knobs. We us liquid propane and were told that was how the range was set up. Any idea what might be going on? Is there and adjustment to limit the amount of gas coming out of the burners prior to being controlled by the knobs? Or could this be a result of the range actually being set up for natural gas, despite what we were told, and we use propane? If so, is there way to look at the orifices to determine if they are correct for propane? Thanks for any help you can give. Tom

[@thomasadams6111]

I did confirm that the gas regulator is set to LP and not natural gas. Is there any other setting that would result in more flame control from the burner knobs so that the flame size does not reach maximum intensity so quickly? Could this be the result of the range having the wrong orifices (i.e. NG vs LP)? If so, is there a way to confirm that we have LP orifices? Thanks again for all the great DCS videos. Tom

[@cowMAN731]

Great video. Quick question, I busted the gray unit that the venturi tube screw in to (as I was trying to unscrew the piece above). I'm not sure what its called, but its basically the gas feed for the high intensity burner. I think you said something like "if you have an older stove, good luck getting that out". Well, I took it as a challenge and forced it out and cracked the piece in two. Can you tell me what its called and where I can get one? My exact model range is RGV-366-N. Thanks!

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually have orifices for every stove and barbecue unit made. I'm in the Mid West, and you can always get a hold of me during normal Mid West business hours at 714-574-1544. The part that you're referring to is called a venturi holder. You can find these pieces from a plethora of manufacturer's, or, since this part is a non critical part made of pot metal and will likely never experience the forces of torque again in it's lifetime, you can actually piece it back together using JB Weld. You already have this unit apart, so you may consider insulating the spark ignition wires while you still have the unit wide open. These wires often short out to the chassis because the insulator on them is cloth and that material often wears though on older units. I have a high temp insulator sleeve that's heat resistant up to 1200 degrees F, and you simply slide the insulator over your existing wires. I retail this insulator in kit form. Here's a link to a video that I did for that procedure: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZ-6en-Lo8tla68

[@nismo300zx96]

Hey Frank, thanks for posting this. I have a DCS 365 cooktop converted to LP. Ever since the conversion, flames are too high unless using the summer settings. I tried turning the screws under the knobs, but they are super soft and don’t appear to be making much of a difference. Screws are also partially obstructed. Able to provide any advice? Would have to pay for a service man to come out here twice. Thanks in advance.

[@frankhamilton8257]

First thing's first. The regulator needs to be converted from Nat to LP. Low flame settings are the norm on most cooktops, but they might not be available on the DCS models. Also, the I've machined orifices for a number of these DCS units, and they're usually custom machined to fit a specific burner. I don't believe they have low flame settings, because changing the orifices usually compensates the the low flame intensity. I custom machine and sell kits for these models all the time, and none of my customers have had problems doing this adjustment. If all else fails start from step one and go forward one step at a time to the final set. Again, the first step should always converting the fuel regulator as a matter of safety.If there is a low flame adjustment (which there likely isn't) try adjusting the low flame setting in an orderly process. Adjust the furthest one from the gas regulator, then adjust the next one and so forth. You might need to leave each one running as it is adjusted to make sure the adjustment holds until you have all six on at one time.

[@nismo300zx96]

Frank Hamilton thank you Frank, I appreciate you taking the time to review. I did not need to switch the regulator as the previous cooktop was also configured for LP, but I’m still unable to get an appropriate size flame. I believe I found the brass adjustment screws tucked away under the knobs, but I’m not 100% as I do not see a major change in flame while adjusting. I’ll try again following your method of furthest away first...do you mind if I contact you if I am unable to figure it out? I had sent you an email earlier in the week linking a video of the stove. Willing to pay for help or parts if necessary. Let me know, or else I’m going to have to return the stove before the grace period runs out.

[@frankhamilton8257]

You will need a jewelers screwdriver set to adjust those screws if that's what they are. Do you have the owners manual or installation manual that shows the procedures for doing a conversion?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Feel free to contact me. I'm taking a little downtime right now, so it might be best to call me on Monday. Remember that I'm on the West Coast 714-574-1544.

[@dougguichard7661]

Good Videos. Thanks. I need to purchase a new jet/venturi holder and gas line for the center burner on a CDU-365-L but can't find any suppliers or a parts list for the actual part numbers. Frustrating! Do you know if those parts for a CTD-365 are compatible? Also how to get hold of you to purchase parts! Thanks much!

[@frankhamilton8257]

I've supplied parts for a number of these units and I certainly have the orifices for everything made Feel free to contact me. I'm on the West Coast, and you can always get a hold of me during normal West Coast business hours at 714-574-1544.

[@andrewlorenz5609]

Hi Frank- had an overflow situation while deep frying. Oil got EVERYWHERE. Ever since, that burner’s igniter will not stop clicking. I’ve gone as far as taking the top plate and the second plate off, but I’ve been too scared of breaking something and “spousal wrath” to take off the venturi tube and disassemble further. Do you have any suggestions as to what to clean, and how to clean it, to get the igniter to stop freaking out? Or do I really need to get down all the way in there?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made and have all the parts. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. Grease is your worst enemy. It is impenetrable, but, most of all, it is FLAMMABLE. I would open this unit up and degrease everything; the burners, the spark ignition wires, the chassis, everything. Citrus cleaner is perhaps the simplest most effective way of accomplishing this. The parts should not be a worry, and you should definitely place your own personal safety first. Sometimes the Venturi tubes on these units can be stubborn, and you may have to crush one to get a burner disassembled. Even if you have to order a Venturi and a nut from me (I machine the top and bottom nuts and I also have an inventory of Ventuis), it's better than risking a fire.

[@pldehoff]

Great video. Is there a way to extract and replace the simmer orifice without removing the burner assembly?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Yes, and no. The only other way to extract this orifice is to completely remove the front panel and it's components. Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made and I have parts for virtually everything on the market including that simmer orifice. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544 during normal Midwest business hours.

[@familycamp7569]

Hello and thank you for the DCS burner video. I suspect my low intensity jet is plugged. I've tried to clean it without removing the burner assembly to no avail. I've also tried to remove the venturi but it is stuck. I have used penetrating oil without success. Any tips? Can I heat the venturi with a butane torch? Thank you, Glenn

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually sell orifices and all the brass burner parts for every stove and barbecue unit made on flamesources.com/ I'm in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544 during normal Midwest business hours. FYI: the website is not quite finished yet. Those venturis are subject to constant heat cycling, and, as a result, they can become bonded to the nut and venturi holder itself. I have all the brass parts for those burners, so, if you have to destroy anything, either collapse the tube or cut the nut off to gain access to the rest of the works. You might try heat, but, I suspect you won't get very far doing that unless you're extremely lucky. If you've spun the burner around and damaged the gas tube going to it, that won't be a problem. You can simply cut it off with a tubing cutter, debur it, put the ferrule and nut back on and you're in business. Since you're going to be on the inside of this unit, you may as well do some things to make sure you'll never have to get inside it ever again. Number one: put a ring of silicone underneath each burner head to prevent liquid from ever leaking down into the low flame orifices. Number two: insulate the spark ignitor wires with high temp insulation to prevent them from arching to the chassis and burning out the spark ignition module. Here's the video for that procedure: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZ-6en-Lo8tla68

[@chadhampton1839]

Frank, I have a DCS305SS. I need to change a burner valve. Do I have to take off the top of the cooktop? I cannot reach the back of the valve with any wrench. How do you remove the top of the cooktop?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544 or visit my website flamesources.com/. If you're referring to the control valves at the front of the unit, you'll likely need to remove the entire control panel to gain access to a single valve, otherwise you'll need to disassemble all the burners to get access to these controls, and I don't think you'll want to do that.

[@benunruh7127]

I have a DCS RGA 304 (older model) two of the burners click when trying to turn them on, but will not turn on unless I turn on the other (working) burners. Not sure if it is an issue with the ignitor or if it is an issue with the burners/gas tube being dirty... and if it is dirty, do youo have a recommendation to clean

[@frankhamilton8257]

There are only two things that would prevent a burner from igniting. Lack of gas and lack of spark. If you're burners are double stacked burners like the one shown in this video, it's possible that the low heat orifices are clogged or partially clogged. This is a common complaint with this type of burner, and is commonly caused by food that boils over in the pan and leaks into the burner head, causing a clog in the low flame orifice. To analyze the issue, you'll want to see if there is any spark present at those particular burners when those burners are turned on. If there is not, then you likely have a short in the thermal wiring to those burners. If it's not obvious whether there if spark present there or not, put a lighter near the low flame part of the burner (the lower outlet) and see if it lights that way when you turn the knob on. If it doesn't light, then you have a clogged low flame orifice. I have these orifices and I also have the thermal insulation for the wiring in these units because I commonly wrap the wiring in these units when I rehab them. I've sold the high temp wiring insulation and the low flame orifices to a lot of people who have had issues with these units, so feel free to reach out. FYI, all the igniters spark when any one knob is turned on, so it's a mystery why these two particular burners would only light when you turn on the other burners, unless you have an internal issue with the spark ignition module. I've done quite a few of these units, and I've never heard of the special type of circumstances that you've mentioned.

[@billrossi2378]

Great video. I have a CDU-365-N 5 burner natural gas stove top and have the same problem some others described below where it pulses on low/simmer. I tried to remove the Venturi tube on the center burner but I'm sure I broke the gas line as now it just turns without coming loose. The other tubes came out easily. How do I get the top of the unit off now so I can repair the center gas line? Thanks.

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. You'll need to resort to destructive measures to remove the burner. The best solution is to crush the Venturi tube with a set of vice grips. That tube is extremely soft because it's made of brass. You may find it necessary to bore out the center with a larger set of drills in order the make the walls a bit thinner than they are now. I have all the brass pieces in this burner including the orifices, the brass nuts (both top and bottom) and the Venturi tube.

[@srmaietta]

Frank, if you could, please tell us the size socket needed for the Venturi tube nut, and also the simmer jet ID that would be very helpful!

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. All of these parts are metric, albeit I machine the simmer jets from 1/8" (0.125 inch) hex stock because they aren't available anywhere. I believe the hex on the venturi is 20 mm. Aside from the fact that these bolts are metric and are likely made from Metric stock, I couldn't definitively tell you outside dims of those. Since I machine the large top and bottom bolts out of 1-1/8 inch hex stock, I have no point of reference on these.

[@emmanuelscigliano5019]

Hello, I read all the comments here and don't see my issue answered yet. I have a 6 burner 366 DCS range in LP. The burners are exactly the same as in your video. A couple of my burners work fine on the lower settings, but on medium and higher the ring of flame is uneven, some of the areas have no flames and it starts making a noise. Is there a particular area I need to clean?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made and I have parts for virtually everything on the market including that simmer orifice. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544 during normal Midwest business hours. Depending on the noise, one of the main burner tubes may be compromised. You'll know the noise, because NONE of the other burners will make this noise. If you do have a gas leak, it could be very dangerous because the leaking gas would likely be allowed to travel to areas other than to the burner head and the amassing gas could ignite into a large fireball. If you're not sure of what you're doing, you'll want to get a technician involved. If there is no gas leak, you could focus on making sure all the burner heads are without any obstructions. You can take a piece of wire and go through each of the holes in the burner head. If this doesn't work, you have have an obstruction in the fuel line for whatever reason. If that is the case, you'll want to turn your gas supply off to the stove, disconnect the stove from the gas supply, disconnect the regulator, remove the orifices themselves, open one valve at a time and blow backwards through each burner head with compressed air. You'll want to make sure each orifice is clear when you remove them as well, and you can blow air through those alsol. Make sure to put some yellow gas tape back on the threads when you reinstall the fuel lines.

[@HELKUSH]

I have the same thing, one of the burners' electrode-wok has cracked--this is the little nipple on the side of the round burner, so the spark is no longer coming from the top of the electrode and therefore, won't turn on. Any suggestions? Not sure how to take the electrode out and replaced. Can the cracked portion of the nipple be sealed with furnace cement? it is good for up to 2000 degrees. Thanks.

[@frankhamilton8257]

The spark ignitor is made of porcelien, so try using something compatible that is made of dielectric material. I'm the guy you contact if you are converting one of these, you need a venturi or orifices. Frank Hamilton 714-574-1544.

[@arjfca]

Hello and thanks for the information. I got a DCS range and the venturi tube is loosen, but won't come out. I probably broke somthing because now no gas is comming out. My english is not very good and no experience with gas terminology so I do'n't understand the procedure to replace the venturi and repair the gas line. - If I cut the venturi tube and be able to remove the burner top assembly, , will I be able to work on the gas braket and gas line? - What should I expect to replace? Martin

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually carry orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. Make sure to like and subscribe to my channel. You definitely DON'T want to turn on the gas to this burner, because the gas line going to this burner is now broken and gas is filling up the stove. This is extremely dangerous. You may need to destroy the Venturi tube to get everything apart. I have all the brass parts for this model include the Venturi tube, top nut, bottom nut and both orifices. Once you get it opened, you can cut the gas line with a tubing cutter, put the ferule and nut back on and screw it back into the burner. While you're in there and you have the whole unit apart, you'll definitely want to make sure you don't have to ever go in there ever again. I do a kit to make sure the spark ignitor wires are good for life. You can see this video at: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZ-6en-Lo8tla68 I sell this in kit form, so feel free to call me.

[@brandonl5826]

Where can I find the orifices for the main and simmer burners. GE has made mine obsolete. Trying to convert from NG to LP. Any help is appreciated

[@frankhamilton8257]

I've done a few hundred of these conversions. As far as I aware, I'm the only one who has these. Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544 or visit my website flamesources.com/.

[@armandcentanni2735]

Frank,I have a DCS 6 burner range and have recently been dealing with the constant igniter clicking while burners were in use. This issue had resolved on its on but now there is a new issue. The igniter clicking is constant when all of the burners are turned off. It only seems to be linked to the left front burner because when that burner is on the clicking goes away. There is absolutely no clicking when burners are in use. I have taken the burner apart and cleaned the orifices with a torch cleaning tool with no success. Any idea what could be causing this issue? Thanks in advance for any info you can provide!Armand

[@frankhamilton8257]

The microswitch that controls that clicker is mounted onto the valve behind the control knob. It's likely that cam lobe that controls that switch has slipped on the shank. That's why it's doing the opposite of what it's supposed to do at any given time. The cam likely needs to be clocked back into its proper position on the control knob's shaft. If you look at that microswitch and compare it to the others, you'll see what I'm talking about. Let me know if this solves the issue.

[@armandcentanni2735]

Thanks so much for the info. I took the front of the range off and found the igniter switch you referred to. The hole on the switch is a semicircle that slides over the control knob shaft. I guess over the years from turning the knob that semicircle has sort of wallowed out. So, at some point when I turned the knob on it couldn't turn the switch off when the knob was turned off. I was able to shim it for the time being so it will work but need to get a new switch. It is a State Tool Igniter Switch p/n 25300. Any idea where these can be purchased? thanks again for all of your help! www.statetool.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/25300-SERIES-TECHNICAL-DATA-SHEET-rev-B.pdf

[@randyevans6305]

Frank, I have a DCS 5 burner drop-in stove top that all the burners light and the simmer rings all have flames coming out, but the igniter will not turn off on all the burners. I have cleaned the all simmer orifices and the igniters but the igniter still stays on. Just to be sure, I used a butane gas grill igniter to heat the DCS igniter but the igniter still stays on. I have heard the re-igniter module is likely the problem. Any comments on what might be the problem?

[@frankhamilton8257]

It's likely not the module. The insulation on the wiring is usually the case. The synthetic cloth insulation on this wiring usually dries out after many years of use and the wiring can short out on the chassis causing the system to indicate a "non-burn" condition that tells the ignition system that a burner is not lit. I usually send high temp insulation to my customers who buy orifices from me. The insulation is good for 1100 degrees F. You'll want run a check on the module first, just to make sure. The indicator is a spark that jumps between two channels. If that's not happening, then the insulation on the wiring is likely shorting out on the chassis. I get $50 for the high temp insulation and high temp wiring ends (10 ends, and enough insulation to cover all the wires. Here's the video link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aZmwi6qCq5edaNE

[@randyevans6305]

@@frankhamilton8257 thanks for the prompt reply. I'm not you what you mean by "a spark that jumps between two channels". What do you mean by "two channels"? All the burners have ignition sparks on them and light correctly. That would seem to imply that the ignition voltage is not getting shorted to ground by bad insulation. The cooktop was installed only 12 years ago.

[@yotinzepol1586]

Hello Frank, my burners look exactly (from black round plate and above) what you show in the video. I like to have my 4 burners replaced/repaired (clicking because simmer clogged). Can you make a house call to do it. Where are you located? Can you let me know.

[@frankhamilton8257]

We may have spoke yesterday. I have all the brass parts for these units like the venturis, top nut, bottom nut and orifices. I've moved to the Midwest , and you can always get a hold of me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544.

[@dadlaponizil3687]

Hi Mr. Hamilton. I have a Viking Professional stove/cooktop. One of the burners lights and then keeps clicking/sparking. Can you explain to me what stops the clicking/sparking circuit. In other words, the gas is let in, the circuit closes, the sparking begins. The flame lights. Then the sparking should stop without further human control. What should control that? I do not see a temperature sensor so it is quite mysterious. Thank you.

[@dadlaponizil3687]

PS. I'm happy to pay for this consult.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. Normally, when a spark ignitor is persistent, it is caused from a short circuit in one of the spark ignitor wires. The insulator on this wire is cloth, so it does wear through after years of heat cycling. I market a high temp 1,200 degree sleeve kit to prevent this from ever happening again. You can view this video to see how this material is applied: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZ-6en-Lo8tla68 Make sure to like and subscribe to my channel when you view this video.

[@damagdpets7559]

Tried your number and couldn't get through.....Have a DCS RGV-486GD-N with igniter clicking after fires up. I had a repair service come out and flat out said the igniter module was bad and $800.00 to service my stove, 4-5 yrs old. I tried the alcohol swab but didn't work. Replaced Reignition module and Switch igniter still clicking....brings me to small orifice. Long winded question.....how much force does it take to remove for cleaning? I'm afraid of damaging it....appreciate the help!!!!!

[@frankhamilton8257]

That low flame orifice requires a small metric socket and shouldn't take much to remove. I have these low flame orifices, so they're $29.95 each plus $6 to bore then to the correct size. I have orifices for everything made. Feel free to call me at 714-574-1544. Remember I'm in the West Coast time zone when you call, so keep it to West Coast business hours.

[@H-zc2yt]

To keep the venturi tube from seizing, is a high heat anti seize lub recommended? if so, which one?

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. You may want to soak the venturi with PB Blaster or Kano oil for a few days before trying to loosen it. Make sure to reapply the lubricant. If it doesn't come loose, you'll need to bore it out until it becomes thin enough to collapse in on itself. You may be able to to this with a step drill. I have all the brass pieces including each orifice, the venturi tube and both nuts. The best solution is to destroy the tube, because these nuts are a real pain to machine, so I get quite a price for those. If you damage the venturi holder (that's what it's called) these are still available or you can JB weld it back together using two pieces of thin gauge rod to reinforce it. If the burner has spun around, you've damaged the gas tube leading up to it. You'll need to cut it with a tubing cutter, then slide the nut and ferrule back over the non damaged remnant. Fortunately, there is enough material there to successfully do this.

[@francecarbonneau4338]

Hi Frank. Great video! I have a DCS RGU-305-N model and the design of the burner is very similar to what I see in your video. I have spent the last two days troubleshooting a non functional burner. There is a spark present and there is gas coming from the main burner. However, there is no gas coming through for the simmer portion of the burner. I tried poking a small wire to clear any debris from the small jet orifice, and afterwards used compressed air... no success. My next step is going to be to remove the jet and male sure the orifice is clear. Do you know if it possible to remove the jet without removing the front panel of the range? Any suggestions?

[@frankhamilton8257]

These types of burners usually require that you remove the entire burner. That's the simplest way to get to the underworkings. The orifice that you're dealing with likely has a hole that's a #80 or smaller, so it's not usual that a piece of debris has clogged the works. Make sure to soak the burner assembly with PB Blaster overnight because it's always the varnish buildup that cements these parts together. If you damage one or more nut extracting the venturi, I have some in inventory.

[@francecarbonneau4338]

Thank you Frank for your prompt reply. I am still debating whether or not to take on this repair myself or to call a service technician. In the mean time I am able to turn on that burner with a BBQ wand-type lighter and accept that it will not function in simmer mode. I have been able to find the service manual for the RGS series range, but not the one for the RGU series. In the case of the RGS series, there is a part called 'volcano' which sits underneath the burner base. In my case, ie. RGU series, there is no such part. The burner base sits directly on the cooktop. If I remove the venturi from the burner base, will this permit me to remove the burner base from the cooktop and be able to access the simmer jet holder?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Typically, the simmer jet is mounted to offset the main venturi, and shoot up it's own mini venturi (for lack of a better term) that enters the fuel charge into a separate chamber. This keeps the flow emitting from the two orifices separate. It's this offset that makes it difficult to reach the simmer orifices with any reasonable effort without completely removing the burner head.

[@francecarbonneau4338]

Thank you Frank. I may have not explained my concern adeaquately. Is the burner head removable from the top of the cooktop, ie. by unscrewing the centrally-located main venturi?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Yes. There is a large brass nut that unscrews from the venturi tube, then the venturi tube itself screws out. As I mentioned before, the tube gets varnished into the burner head after many years of use, so you'll want to hit it with PB Blaster overnight. The brass nuts are usually the most fragile component so I make these nuts and have even done mechanical drawings of the venturi tube for reproduction on my lathe if I ever needed to make one.

[@geezeballstudios4399]

Have a 305 where the igniter(s) keep clicking when all burners are off. When a single burner is lit clicking disappears. Everything else works fine. Now I turn off circuit breaker to stove & light top with matches. Turn on breaker for oven and usually put a pot of water on simmer to stop clicking while baking. Turn off breaker when done baking. A little inconvenient but not the end of the world. Would like to fix if possible. Ideas ?

[@reo3tactical198]

I have the same problem and have not been able to find a solution.

[@marcossandoval8836]

I was able to turn the venturi tube but it just turns ,it wont come out,i am thinking something broke inside .whant do you think?thanks in advance.

[@frankhamilton8257]

There's also a large nut underneath the tube and the tube itself screws into the venturi holder. These brass pieces get welded together after years of use. I prototyped a venturi for this exact unit about a year ago. Feel free to give me a call 714-574-1544.

[@randallvanduyn4372]

I have a 30 inch DCS 5 burner range with these burners. I have two issues (at least) 1: Some of the burner igniters are loose in their hole and can just pull out easily. It appears that in the burner that you are displaying that there is some sort of wound wire spring around the lower portion of the ignitor that perhaps holds the igniter in place in the burner hole. Does this looseness of the igniter cause issues? Can it be repaired? 2: One of the burner knobs turned with great difficulty, but is better now but upon first turning it onto full it ignites but on a low flame (not just the simmer ring), if it is turned off again and back on, then it lights to full burner intensity. What could cause this and is can it be fixed?

[@frankhamilton8257]

The burner ignitors are spring loaded just like an intake valve on a car's engine, so it's likely that the spring that holds it against the keeper is broken. You can get one of those tiny replacement spring sets and a set of e-clips from Harbor Freight tools to replace that spring. As for the knob assembly; it's likely that that assembly received a blow to the valve stem causing it to become jammed. Those assemblies can be disassembled to analyze the issue, and you may be able to find a two stage replacement valve as well. DCS should have a mechanical diagram of this unit somewhere in their archives, so look there to find out what the part number is for that piece. I make the orifices and other assorted brass works for these units and even a spark ignitor wiring insulation kit, but I don't do gas valves. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.

[@randallvanduyn4372]

@@frankhamilton8257 Thank You.

[@tulio3571]

Nice video very informative ,how do i clean the small orifice and do you have a website to buy parts?thank you.

[@frankhamilton8257]

It doesn't take much to clog a small orifices because the hole in those orifices is darn near microscopic. You'll definitely need to remove the orifice, then blast it backwards with a can of compressed air. I sell all kinds of parts for these units, so feel free to call me at 714-574-1544. Remember that I'm on the West Coast when you call.

[@paulcoats7173]

@@frankhamilton8257 hey Frank. I have a DCS stove and was looking at this video. The last Time I had a problem with the main burner not coming on very high. The technician was able to set a drive socket into the Venturi tube and remove the piece that has the hole in it. He cleaned it and put it back without removing the burner at all. I have a couple drive sockets but they won’t fit through the Venturi tube, or at least the size that I need to use won’t fit through. Do you happen to know what size that brass item is so if I buy a narrow drive socket I can remove it?? The technician that cleaned it was able to remove it without taking apart the burner assembly

[@frankhamilton8257]

@@paulcoats7173 I make the orifices shown in this video out of American hex stock, so I wouldn't know the size of the socket in question.

[@jenaroquintana6752]

jenn-air gas cooktop igniter no came on what can i do

[@greatlistener2916]

Hi Frank, Have a DCS 366 LP 15 yrs. old. Have had a couple oil spills on front mid and front rt. The Rt on won't light at all and the mid one has to keep reigniting on the simmer mode. Looks like I can replace the orifice pieces from above. What are the tools needed to extract these things? Did call a service rep out at one time but he was'nt enthused about fixing it.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. It's normal for the large brass nut to get stuck to the venturi tube after many years of cycling "on" and "off." There's no sure fire way of loosening this , but you might try some some PB Blaster or citric acid to get it loose. Citric acid is as simple as squeezing a lemon in to penetrate the threads of that nut. Use a large socket from one of those Harbor Freight impact socket sets to get it off. Be careful, you stand a chance of breaking the base of the burner loose so that it will simply spin the entire assembly. It's not a complete loss if you do because I have all the brass works involved including both the top nut the bottom nut and the venturi tubes for this assembly. The only thing I don't have is the orifice holder made of pot metal but they are available out there or you can simply JB weld it back together because they aren't under much stress. If you damage one of the fuel lines, you can simply repair it with a flaring tool (if it has a flared end) or you cut the fuel line, deburr it and put the ferrule back onto the fuel line before reattaching it. It's not uncommon for the simmer orifice to get clogged as a result of spillovers. I also have these as well. It's not uncommon for a spark igniter system to be triggered by a spark igniter wire that's shorting out to chassis ground. This happens a lot on those wires after they get to be a certain age and the cloth based insulator wears through in spots. I also have a high temp sleeve that fits over this wire to enable the spark igniter system to function as new. Make sure to view my video on this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZ-6en-Lo8tla68 Make sure to put a good bead of high temp silicon underneath all of the burner heads on your unit after you've gone in to do any repairs. If you do that in addition to sleeving the spark igniter wire as I suggested, your unit should give you trouble free service for the rest of time.

[@greatlistener2916]

@@frankhamilton8257 Can't say I feel confident in doing the repair. Did call another DCS servicer and he said he would have to take all burners out and take off top to get in. 1100$ in parts. Anyway, he said the all the parts needed were not all available and told me to buy a new stove. Am I stuck? By the way the stove is from 2003 actually.

[@frankhamilton8257]

@@greatlistener2916 Sounds like he's trying to gouge you for a service call. These units are extremely simple and there's a good possibility that he'd be calling me for new orifices. The trick with these units is that the top nut often gets stuck, and sometimes requires chiselling to get it off. Try using heat and cold to try to unstick that assembly. This usually only happens on one or two nuts because people tend to use one or two burners more than any other. I have all the brass works for this unit including the orifices (both the high heat orifice and the low heat orifice), the top nut, the bottom nut and the venturi tube itself. If you have to do anything destructive to get this unit apart, just chisel off the top nut if you absolutely can't get it off. The nut is only brass, so it's extremely soft. Everything else will likely come apart without too much hassle. If, for some reason, you bend the gas tube leading up to the burner head, you'll simply need to trim off the bent part, ream it to make that a clean edge, put on the ferrule (brass piece), and reattach it to the burner. The tubing on these units usually has a very generous length that allows you to reconfigure them if need be. You'll want to make sure to put a good ring of silicon underneath those burner heads when you put it all back together. This will prevent this from ever happening again. While you're in there, you may consider making sure those spark ignitors will always be working reliably. I have a high temp sleeve that I slide over the leads for these spark ignitors that comes with the sleeve, high temp shrink tubing, high temp ends (because you'll have to cut off one of the spade connectors) and a tool to enable you to slide the wiring easily up that sleeve (it's called a bodkin). My video of this install is here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZ-6en-Lo8tla68 If you perform all this due diligence, you'll never need to open that unit up ever again.

[@greatlistener2916]

@@frankhamilton8257 Hey Frank, thanks for your encouraging response, I think I can do this! I do have some questions- 1 Your video doesn't show how the small orifice is connected to burner assembly. It looks like if the venturi tube is removed, everything just comes out? What is the small orifice screwed into? 2 When you talk about the silicone ring, is it put around the venturi tube on top? Lastly, since this is something I've never done before, what parts do you suggest I purchase from you ? Sounds like I would at least need both orifices for the one burner and the small orifice for the other. Don't want to end up damaging the gas line and be without a stove, or are the lines to each burner independent of each other. Thanks!

[@frankhamilton8257]

@@greatlistener2916 That's a lot of questions. Again, this system is very simple. There's a second smaller fuel line going to the low heat orifice orifice that screws into it's own fixture. The high heat burner orifice is installed into what's called an "orifice holder." The venturi tube screws into that and there's are two nuts; one that holds the middle burner plate on and screws to the ventui tube; while the the other screws onto the orifice holder as shown in this video. Removing the ventui tube is the key to removing the burner assembly. The venturi holder will stay on the chassis of the unit and the burner assembly will then lift out once the venturi tube is removed. The bead of silicon is applied underneath the black burner base to prevent any fluids from dripping into the lower chassis of the unit. I carry all the brass pieces in the assembly, but I do not carry the venturi holder because it's available from many different sources. Even if you break it, somehow, it can be easily replaced.

[@paulphive]

As always I only need one answer what is the exact tool needed to get to the deep well orifice of the micro simmer, the micro simmer orifice what size nut driver or where is the special nut driver or the name of it that can get down into this little tiny well and get this micro simmer out?

[@frankhamilton8257]

That spud is a metric hex size, I believe somewhere close to 3.5 mm. The replacements ones that I make are turned from 1/8 inch hex stock. I don't think that low flame spud can be reached by going through the hole, so you'll likely need to take the burner completely apart to gain access. While you're in there, you might as well put some silicon underneath the burner head to seal it. DCS didn't seal these burners at the factory, so that's why the low heat orifices get clogged like they do. You may want to put some hi temp insulation on the spark ignitor wiring as well. I do a kit that sleeves the wires on these units and is good for up to 1200 degrees F. If you subscribe to my channel, you'll be able to view the how to video that shows how to do that. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.

[@user-hw9iv3qe5y]

How do I convert my dcs dual side burner from NG to propane? Where can I buy the propane orifices?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. I've converted a few thousand DCS style burners, so feel free to call, text or pix message me shots of this unit, and I'll straighten you right out.

[@janaka5651]

Can I ask you a question? at 3:24 My friend tried to unscrew Venturi Chamfered, but something is snapped inside. What might be ? CAn you help us?

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually carry orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. Make sure to like and subscribe to my channel. It's not uncommon for the parts in these burners to become cemented together from thousands of "on" "off" cycles. The snap you heard was the gas line breaking as it spun around the entire assembly. Not to worry. If you encounter one of these burners, and it's stuck beyond repair, you're best option is to bore out the venturi with progressively larger diameter drill bits (or you could use a stepped drill bit) until the metal is so thin you can collapse it on itself, then remove all other parts to disassemble it. I have the venturi tubes, both brass nuts, and both orifices. If you break the venturi holder (yes, that's what it's called) you can JB Weld it back together using some rod to reinforce the structure. Those are also available from various sources. As for the broken gas line. Typically, there's excess fuel line, so you can use a tubing cutter to cut the line just short of the damaged part, slide the nut and ferule back onto the line and you're back in business. These unit were quite innovative and they still hold up because they're capable of producing an unparalleled low heat setting (somewhere around 400 BTU); a gourmet quality flame capable of keeping heat underneath a delicate gourmet sauce in a small sauce pan without the need for constant stirring. However, they did have an inherent flaw -- any liquid boilovers can cause fluid to flood into the low heat orifice, causing it to flame out. While this may not seem like much, consider that this condition will cause the spark ignitors to be in constant reignition mode, and this will eventually cause the spark module to burn out. My suggestion is to seal the base of the burner with a ring of silicon around the burner base when you reassemble. It would also be wise to put some high temp sleeve onto the spark ignition wires while you're there. I have this in kit form and you can see the process in my KZbin video at: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZ-6en-Lo8tla68 Make sure to like my video and subscribe to my KZbin channel.

[@janaka5651]

@@frankhamilton8257 zgu36n6h3ss model number, how to open right front burner?

[@rhettgrassette2034]

How do I get in touch with you about getting the correct orifaces?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544.

[@mitchlewis535]

Hu Frank. Great video! We have a DCS cooktop model CPU-485GD-N / Serial #UAP202185. (installed in 2014) It's a 5-burner cooktop and the large center burner won't ignite anymore. We had a repairman come out and he said that the simmer orifice is clogged and in his experience, you can't take them apart because they are typically all frozen together. (I saw him try and remove the upper nut with a pair of channel lock pliers). He said that to repair the one burner, he would have to cut off all 5 burners with a saw and replace all 5 of them. (approx. $900). My question for you is, if we us the right tools (like a 6-point socket) and some penetrating lubricant, do you think I could remove/replace it myself?

[@mitchlewis535]

@@yesman8 Thanks for the reply. I'm sorry to hear this though... I'm going to try PB Blaster penetrating lubricant and see if it loosens it up. It's worked on rusted exhaust bolts on my car. (crossing fingers) I also found this video on cleaning the ports without removing anything. So I'm going to try that first. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qHSXdKR7lJqbgKs

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544. Having said that, I have all the brass parts for this fix. It's likely that only a couple of the burners are actually stuck to the point that you'll need to resort to destructive means. If you need to destroy anything, just destroy the top nut with a chisel. Be careful not to damage anything else, but if you do, I have the top nut, the bottom nut, the Venturi tubes, the high heat orifices and the low heat orifices. In other words, every brass part in that system. You'll need to trim the gas tubes with a tubing cutter, de burr them. then fit the coupler and ferrule back onto them to reattach them to the orifice holders. While you're at it, you may as well fit some high temp sleeve over the spark ignition wires. This is the same type shown in my video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZ-6en-Lo8tla68 If you do this and apply a bead of silicon underneath all the burner heads upon reassembly, the stove will last you for the rest of time. This fix WILL NOT cost you $900, even with the wire upgrade! Make sure to subscribe to my video channel.

[@mitchlewis535]

@@frankhamilton8257 Thank you Frank! Much appreciated! I'm not sure what you mean by a fuel conversion though. We have natural gas coming into to our home for our HVAC to heat our home as well as for our DCS stove top. Since we have last talked I tried taking the faulty burner apart. I'm a hobbyist automotive mechanic so I have lots of tools. I was able to easily remove the top nut without damage. I applied PB Blaster to the bottom nut/tube thing and when I tried to loosen it, it stripped. It just spins now. In addition, now when I turn on the gas, nothing comes out. So if I understand you correctly, I need to use something like a Dremel tool to cut the gas tube/nut off. That will be tricky for sure as the nut seems to be flush with the stovetop. Thanks for your phone number. I might call you. Maybe facetime call so I can show you what I'm looking at? Do you have a video where you show adding a bead of silicon underneath the burner heads? Thanks again. 🙂

[@RustyTank56]

What is the diameter of the small off-center orifice? My 2005 GE Monogram range has nearly identical burners....

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. I recently did these for another GE Monogram in kit form. That orifice is actually 3.5 mm and I'm the only one who has them.

[@mrboo7237]

Hey Frank, great video. Any idea how to get the simmer jet out without taking the whole thing apart? Also, one of our other burners flutters on both the simmer and main burner. It does it at all flame heights. Any idea about that?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Thanks. I actually carry orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. Make sure to subscribe to my channel. I've heard that there is an orifice replacement tool (for lack of a better term) that allows you to remove the low flame orifice without opening the unit up, but don't quote me on that. That fluttering is likely caused by an air leak somewhere upstream of the orifice. If gas is leaking upstream this could pose a sever hazard and you'll need to take all precaution because any standing gas deposits can be explosive. Make sure to check that. If there's not a leak, then disconnect the gas, discharge any fuel that could be trapped inside the tubes by opening up all the valves. Disconnect the fuel line(s) going to that burner, and blow backwards through that tube with compressed air to dislodge any debris that may have collected in that tube. You'll want to do this check in a well ventilated area with a fan blowing air across the unit while you find the source of this leak. You may be able to run one of those long barbecue igniters along the tube upstream of the affected burner to make sure that the tube isn't leaking. Use common sense when analyzing this issue and only do this procedure downstream of the control knob (not upstream - aka - BEFORE).

[@mrboo7237]

@@frankhamilton8257 Hi Frank, thank you for the very informative and quick response. I'll search and see if I can find the orifice removal tool. What is the size of the orifice? I was thinking of getting a long nut driver and perhaps grinding down the O.D. to see if I can get it in there. If it works, I will let you know. As for the flutter, I would think that unless the components were mechanically disturbed, there should not be a leak, but you are the expert, not me. The range has never been taken apart. I will check for debris that may have collected in the tube since the wife tends to boil over things from time to time. (Don't tell her I said that!) 😉

[@frankhamilton8257]

​@@mrboo7237 These burners are susceptible to contamination via boilover. The cure there is to run a ring of high temp silicon underneath the base of each burner. This will prevent any liquids from a boilover from contamination the low flame orifice and will greatly extend the life of those spark ignitors because, at some point such an issue will surely result in a condition in which those spark ignitors will remain constantly working due to the lack of flame. The spark ignition issue is not uncommon, due to the frailty of the insulator on the spark ignitor wires and you'll eventually need to address this issue. Since you'll need to open this unit anyway, you should take advantage and do this procedure. I have a spark ignitor wire kit, and you can see a video on the procedure at: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZ-6en-Lo8tla68 If you decide to do that, you may consider running insulation over the spark ignitor wiring to prevent them from shorting out to the chassis. This will also cause them to spark constantly. If you take these two precautions, you'll greatly extend the life of this awesome unit. The wire on these ignitors is a cloth material which eventually drys out and becomes brittle so, it's only a matter of time before you experience some kind of electrical short. I have the simmer burner orifices and spark ignitor insulation kits available if the need occurs. You may want to view my video on this procedure: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZ-6en-Lo8tla68 Make sure to like and subscribe to my video channel.

[@mrboo7237]

@@frankhamilton8257 Hello Frank, thank you once again for your kind assistance and suggestions. I wanted to let you know that I was able to buy a 'precision nut driver set' on Amazon that has all of the tiny sizes I might need to remove the simmer jet. Since I didn't know the jet nut size going in and I could not get either a regular socket or calipers in there to measure it, I had to get the entire set to be sure I had it covered. It turns out that the 5/32 size fits perfectly. Also, it has to be of sufficient length to get down in there and thin enough to clear the hole diameter. Regular 5/32" sockets that you would use with a 1/4" drive will not work because they won't even fit into the hole. I ended up buying the "Wiha 26591 Precision Inch Nut Driver Set, 8 Piece" from Amazon. It's $41 bucks and a bit overpriced, but it saves you from having to take the stove apart to remove the jet. And if you bung up anything taking it apart, you are into even more $$, so this is a super simple alternative. Here's what I did: I sprayed the clogged jet with WD40 to penetrate the threads and let it sit overnight. (Take a long q-tip and clean around the jet before removing it to get rid of loose debris/carbon that could fall into the gas manifold and re-clog the jet after you remove it.) I inserted the nut driver into the simmer hole which is a blind fit and let it 'find' the jet. Since the nut driver slipped over the jet rather tightly, I wasn't worried about it falling out of the end when I went to remove it. Turning counterclockwise, it came right out with minimal effort. However, when installing the new one, you'll need to insert the jet into the nut driver and use the nut driver as a holder to guide it into the threaded hole. If you don't secure it, the jet WILL slip out and end up God knows where inside the stove. I secured the jet by taking a tiny thread of paper and wedged it between the jet and the nut driver, then tugged on the jet a bit to make sure it wouldn't fall out and made sure it in there straight and not cocked at an angle. (The gas jet is brass, so for the lay folks out there, don't rely on a magnetic socket to retain it). Before inserting it, I turned on the gas for a few seconds to blow out any debris. Be careful when doing this because the sparker could ignite it. You might want to cover the ignitor for that burner with foil to ground it out before turning on the gas. Afterward, I thought it might have been better to use one of those blow off air-in-a-can dusters instead or gentle compressed air. But whatever. I then gently guided the nut driver with the jet wedged in the end, down the center of the hole and felt around until it dropped into the hole. I then turned it counterclockwise so as to 'find' the thread, then tightened it down by turning clockwise. I reassembled the burner, turned the knob a voila! The simmer ring was back in business!

[@frankhamilton8257]

@@mrboo7237 Thanks for the handy tip. You mentioned a new jet. Did you mean you cleaned up the jet or were you able to locate one? I'm the only one who makes those low flame jets as far as I'm aware.

[@marcossandoval8836]

What is the purpose of the lower nut on the Venturi? Thank you

[@frankhamilton8257]

The lower nut sandwiches the surface of the cooktop to the base of the burner assembly. I actually make these nuts because they are not available anywhere. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544 during normal West Coast business hours.

[@lauraatube1]

Hi desperately trying to avoid paying for service to come for a simple clean, so reaching out. Just moved and now have a 17 year old DCS 365 stove top. I cannot for the life of me take off the burner caps on two of the burners. It’s liek they’re super glued on. Any tips?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544. I've done thousands of these DCS units over the years, but I've never encountered the issue that you're describing. It's possible that the burner head is warped and that's why the second stage if gripping onto the burner cap. A more likely scenario, is that something was spilled onto the burner head and it solidified like a glue, holding the two pieces together. You may try to loosen it with heat, but doing this that way could prove dangerous. I'd likely see what your technician has to say about that.

[@irwinyuen7789]

Can someone explain how to adjust the high flame (too high) on a DCS gas stove? I see the screws on valve behind the knob, but looking for some advise.

[@frankhamilton8257]

If your unit is Natural Gas and the high flames are too high, then there are other issues other than adjustment. Was the unit moved to a high altitude location that uses natural gas? If not, there's a possibility that the regulator was changed to an adjustable regulator and it needs adjustment. Most of these units are designed to work using a natural gas regulator set at 5"WC. If your regulator is rated at 5"WC, then it's possible that the regulator in not regulating the fuel properly. If you purchased this unit from someone else, it's possible that they drilled the orifices too large, possibly because they were trying to convert from propane to natural gas. If that 's the case, you'll need to replace the orifices. I do a lot of work on DCS appliances, and I likely have those orifices, so feel free to call me at 714-574-1544. Remember that I'm on the West Coast if you call.

[@irwinyuen7789]

@@frankhamilton8257 Didn't move, I had and issue where I broke and gas pipe to the valve trying to remove the burner. I replaced the gas pipe and the flames are very high now. Where you see no blue flame about 1/2 inch from burner when high . So we just turn it 1/2 way for now. I see the screws for making some adjustments on the valve.

[@supercareappliancerepair8538]

My center tube nut spins freely. Do you think it’s stripped?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544 or visit my website flamesources.com/. This burner assembly typically spins as an entire assembly when the top nut cannot be loosened from the venturi tube. So, the burner base, called an "Orifice Holder" (that's actually the industry term for it) is still intact but the fuel line attached to has likely broken off. This can be fixed once you're able to get the burner assembly apart. If heat and Kanno penetrating oil don't do the trick, you'll need to apply more destructive measures to disassemble it. My suggestion is to gradually drill out the venturi tube with large drill bits until it can be collapsed. Removing the tube is the key to the entire assembly. I have all the brass parts including the venturi, the top nut, the bottom nut and both orifices. As for the damaged gas tube. DCS has provided enough tubing length to redo it. Simply cut the tubing with a tubing cutter, debur, replace the brass ferule and nut, then thread the tubing back into place. If you've damaged the orifice holder, don't worry, these are still available or you can JB Weld it back together with some small gauge tubing for reinforcement. That piece is just cast from pot metal and it doesn't see any stress. Since you're going to be inside this unit, make sure to run a bead of silicone underneath each burner head so that your low flame burner spuds are all safe from any boil overs you have in the future. You may as well make sure those spark igniter wires are protected for life as well. I do a high temp sleeve kit that accomplishes this end. You can see that video at: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZ-6en-Lo8tla68 Make sure to like my videos and subscribe to my KZbin channel.

[@carolwilliams2885]

Frank, How do I replace the burner on a dos 48' range??

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. If the burner is similar to the one shown in this video, you'll need to remove the large flat nut to begin this process. It's not uncommon for the nut to be stuck due to heat cycling over the years. If this happens, you can cut the nut off and replace it. I have all the brass works for this burner including the top nut, the bottom nut, the orifices (low heat and high heat), and the Venturi tube.

[@whitetailaviation171]

Frank, how do I contact you to order a part(s) my unit is less than 2 years ols I had the same problem with my last unit. It keep clicking my front left and middle burner have no flame coming from bottom (simmer ring ). I am assuming I need to replace the small orifice gas line on them. I have thoroughly cleaned and it didn't help the issue. Thank you.

[@frankhamilton8257]

It's likely that the gas line is obstructed, the orifices is obstructed or the fuel outlet itself is obstructed. I'm on the West Coast, so be aware of the time when you call. Contact 714-574-1544.

[@whitetailaviation171]

Thanks much !

[@frankhamilton8257]

Check the spark igniter also. If there's no spark, the wire is shorting to the chassis. I have high temp insulation that I'm starting to supply to my customers with units older than 10 years.

[@hueyandlavisa]

I have a DCS fisher paykel oven RGU-366-N, The oven igniter is not coming on. I've replaced the igniter and the thermostat temperature module but still nothing any suggestions.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Did you try to see if the wire going to the ignitor is shorting to the chassis?

[@hueyandlavisa]

@@frankhamilton8257 Thank you for replying but I found the problem. It was a thermostat mounted on the oven behind the knobs. Never seen one like that before I guess it's there to protect the circuit boards behind the knobs. Thanks again for your reply and the great videos, have a blessed day.

[@joesiler9835]

A couple of my DCS burners, the flame will pulse. It pulses on high but is not as noticeable. As you turn the flame down it becomes more noticeable, and on simmer it is very noticeable to the point you think the flame will go completely out but it never has. Any help would be appreciated.

[@frankhamilton8257]

The burner heads on these units were not sealed at all. Therefore, when something boils over, the low flame orifices tend to get clogged or partially clogged (like yours likely did). Your best bet is to take the burner apart and run a wire through that orifice. If that's not possible, I make replacement orifices venturi tubes and brass nuts for these unit along with a wire insulator kit that prevents the old spark ignitor wires from shorting out to the chassis. Make sure to subscribe to my channel to view that video. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.

[@joesiler9835]

Thanks!

[@thomasadams6111]

The burners on my DCS range make a small popping sound when they are on simmer. Any suggestion on how to correct this? Do the simmer orifices need to be cleaned? If so how would you suggest I do that? Thanks

[@frankhamilton8257]

If your unit uses the same burner as the one featured in this video, then it's possible that the simmer orifice is clogged. I'm constantly in contact with people who have this issue. I manufacturer this orifice and custom bore it to suit the application. The burners on this unit do not have o-rings underneath them, so any spill overs end up seeping below and cause this orifice to become clogged. The fix is to run a bead of silicone underneath this burner head when you reassemble the unit so it doesn't happen again. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544. Call during West Coast business hours.

[@thomasadams6111]

Do you suggest using any sort of lubricant or anti-seize when reassembling the burners so that the venturi tubes etc. do get stuck in the future?

[@frankhamilton8257]

I've seen this done on automotive applications, but never on stove burners. If you did do this, you'd want to check the maximum temperature rating on the lubricant and also make sure it's doesn't emit toxic fumes when heated. In this regard, I would think it ill advised.

[@thomasadams6111]

Thanks for all the helpful information. I also wonder about the electric convection stove in our dual fuel DCS. I has two bottom elements but only one comes on when baking. The stove comes to temperature and seems to work fine. Is the inner element just for the self-cleaning or is it somehow not working properly if it is not comng one when baking?

[@frankhamilton8257]

I'm not familiar with the inside of these units because I just to the topside burner and any inside burners so long as they're gas fueled. If you're unit is a dual gas unit (gas topside burner with electric ovens), it's possible that the unit has two electric elements; one bottom element for the main burner function (on the bottom) and another topside electric burner (that you will see on the top of the oven compartment) for the broil function. The broiler element should only come on when the oven is set to "broil."

[@swadeshoes235]

Are you still able to get the orfices for natural gas?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Yes. I have orifices, venturis, top nut and button nut

[@lewiskeim77]

A tip or two.. If the venturi tube won't turn easily (whatever that is) you are suppose to use a dremel tool and reach down inside and cut the venturi tube. This was told to me by the DCS rep. The cast frame will easily bend if you are not careful and they are not available. Alos i found the and impact drive with the right socket MAY jar the venturi enough to remove it.(CAREFUL) small tapping and not major torque . Also i found a 20 gauge wire from the automotive gap tools is the right size to fit down into the small orifice and open it up.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544 or visit my website flamesources.com/. Doing the trick with 20 gauge is not going to guarantee that this orifice (whose bore is of a very specific size) will remain unmolested by anything your could possibly jam into the opening especially since the bore is a metric size. I have these small orifices, so you would simply replace it instead of improvising. I also have the aforementioned Venturi AND both the top and bottom brass nuts, so I have any brass part that could possibly need to be replaced. Contrary to what the commentor before stated, the cast assembly IS available from several sources, but you really don't need to bury a new one because fixing the old one is quite easily accomplished. If you do break the cast frame (commonly known as the orifice holder) you can easily put it back together with JB Weld. You'll need to use some type of reinforcement (like small gauge round or square stock) on either side of the structure as the thickness of this part (where it typically breaks) is not quite enough to hold up to much stress. What wasn't mentioned is the gas tubing that delivers fuel to the burner head. It's not uncommon that (in the course of trying to disassemble) the burner, that the tubing gets damaged (usually breaking off). DCS provided enough tubing length to allow someone to cut off the tubing with a tubing cutter, deburr it, slide the ferrule and nut back onto the tubing and reattach it to the burner assembly. You 'll also want to run a bead of high temp silicone underneath the burner head to make sure that the orifice(s) never become(s) clogged again from a boilover event. If you're going to be in there doing all this work, you may as well put high temp insulator onto the spark ignition wires as I show in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZ-6en-Lo8tla68 The insulator featured in this video is rated at 1200 degrees. I actually sell this in kit form with the insulator, high temp spade connectors, high temp shrink tubing, and a bodkin (for threading the wire through the tubing). If you do this now on ALL burners, you'll never need to open the unit again.

[@JulPsc]

Good tip on the 20 gauge wire. It led me down the path of using some spare 27 gauge injection needles to clear the clog in the small orifice. Worked well!

[@michelletignor5411]

WATCHED THIS TOO LATE. I researched and removed everything and was working on the venturi nut, back and forth to loosen, super tight. It gave way and made a pop noise. Now it just spins, obviously stripped, but you can hear everything else spinning with it. Hard to find the directions on what to take apart to get in there (under burner) for repairs. Can I still use the other burners and oven? I turned off gas to assess after it happened and there is not a gas smell after turning back on and lighting the other 3, the bad one has a super small flame so I will not do that again and will safegaurd against use, til repairs... Please advise

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. You can also text or pix message me there also. It's not uncommon for one of these venturis to become cemented in place. I usually advise soaking them for two days with PB Blaster before attempting to disassemble them, soaking multiple times along in the process. Even that may not be enough to get them loose. There's usually one or two that get more stuck than others. It just depends on which burner were used more frequently. The final resort is to bore the tube out until it's thin enough to collapse in on itself or cut the brass topside nut off. I have all the brass pieces for this burner including the top nut, the bottom nut, the venturi and both orifices. Since I have to machine the top and bottom nuts on a lathe, it's less expense to just order the venturi. I have these, or you can order them from Fisher Paykel (albeit, I've heard that it may take months to get one from them, depending on whether they are back ordered). You'll need to hold the venturi firmly on the outside with a set of channel locks or vice grips. Make sure to hold it by the tube and not the nut, otherwise you'll be replacing both. Don't worry if you damage the orifice holder (that's actually what it's called). Those are available as well or you can JB Weld it back together. If you do this, you'll need to reinforce it on either side with thin gauge rod.

[@jeffsupran3729]

Hey Frank where do you sell parts?

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue unit made on flamesources.com/ I'm in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544 during normal Midwest business hours. FYI: the website is not quite finished yet.

[@elkihorn]

How do we get in touch with you to buy parts .

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544.

[@trumannova2793]

Donde puedo yo comprar los 4 quemadores CC estufa DCS el kit completo

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've have conversion parts for just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544.

[@afmm007]

Got a DCS RG486GL that needs some help can I email in?

[@frankhamilton8257]

I've done a few hundred of those. Feel free to give me a call at 714-574-1544.

[@anthonyhitchings1051]

you forgot to show the many tiny holes in the simmer ring - if the holes near the igniter get clogged - the igniter keeps "clicking" because there is no flame nearby (AMHIK)

[@Jaze2022]

where's a good place to buy DCS electrodes from?

[@frankhamilton8257]

You may be able to find them at appliance parts pros.

[@paulphive4826]

How do I contact you? Working on one tomorrow for the first time.

[@frankhamilton8257]

I likely have all the hard to find parts that you'll need to complete your project. I'm on the West Coast, and you can always get a hold of me during normal business hours at 714-574-1544.

[@paulphive4826]

@@frankhamilton8257 I ended up not having enough time to finish the stove and I was able to clean the ports and barely reach them with a acetylene torch tip cleaner but running out of time I wanted to get deeper and twisted the nut and ended up tearing off the two pipes, for the big tube and the simmer on one of the burners and I was able to order those and they’re on the way and they were pretty cheap so I’m OK now except for I can’t get a tool, That reaches down in there to remove the orifices to clean them better.

[@frankhamilton8257]

@@paulphive4826 You'll likely need to disassemble the entire burner assembly to get to the simmer orifice. When you're in there, you should definitely seal the burner with hi temp silicon when you reassemble it. You may also consider putting some hi temp sleeve onto the spark ignitor wires which I do carry (the insulator is good to 1200 degrees F). I have a video on that, so make sure to subscribe to my channel. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.

[@marcossandoval8836]

If I can’t take the Venturi from top ,is there another way ?

[@frankhamilton8257]

It's not uncommon for the venturi tube to become cemented in place. It usually takes destructive measures to remove them from the assembly. The venturi's are still available from various sources but I've reverse engineered one just in case I need to make one after they are no longer available. The nuts are not available anywhere, so that's why I make these for $30 each. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544 during normal West Coast business hours.

[@tulio3571]

@@frankhamilton8257 .Hi there thanks for your answer ,i know would have to destroy the bottom nut and venturi ,but is there a way to Disassemble stove from bottom or sides so as to destroy the ventuti and the bottom nut from the bottom . I am scare to damage the top of the stove where the burners sit. i was able to remove top nut ,but venturi only turns ,wont come out ,i know i already damage the tube where the gas comes in. Thank you sir.

[@frankhamilton8257]

I once converted a Viking stovetop by removing the front panel assembly where the knobs were. I also removed the rear panel (this was a stovetop - not an oven). I had to do this because there was no reasonable way to get to the orifices with the tools that I brought to the job. The only issue that you'll have is the fact that you have damaged the tubing. The gas lines on a lot of DCS units have a double crimp in them rather than the traditional flare. I've tried to come up with a solution to perform such a crimp with no answers. It's likely that you broke the tubing "upstream" enough to install a union that will enable you to join the two broken halves together.

[@tulio3571]

@@frankhamilton8257 .but i can buy the gas tubings right ? thanks again

[@frankhamilton8257]

The gas tubing is available, however there is no way to double crimp it the way it's done at the factory. As I said, you'll likely need to couple both broken ends together using the double crimped end at the burner. FYI; a flare is NOT a crimp.

[@fredricksickelbower9431]

My venturi tube just twists around it wont unthread. Any ideas?

[@frankhamilton8257]

I've done a zillion of these units and that's not uncommon with these burners after years of use. The first thing you'll need to do is hit the top nut with some penetrating oil and let the assembly sit for a day. Once the oil has penetrated, you'll likely need to grab the tube by the inside to turn the outside nut. There's a possibility that you might have to resort to more destructive means to get the assembly apart. I've created mechanical drawings of this venturi tube in order to turn these out on a lathe, but I believe there are still a couple of vendors who have this part. You'll need to replace the gas tube because it was likely broken when the burner rotated. I also do orifices for these units. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.

[@fredricksickelbower9431]

@@frankhamilton8257 Thank's I will try that. When i was messing with the burner I shifted the jet out of alignment with the Venturi. Don't have a clue how I did that or how to move it back. Any ideas?

[@fredricksickelbower9431]

@@frankhamilton8257 I watched your video again. Since I can turn the venturi tube around and around. Does that mean I broke the gas line ?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Yes, you've clearly broken the gas line. I do a lot of work on these units, so it's not uncommon that the venturi tube would be stuck in the burner assembly. Sometimes a good overnight soaking with penetrating oil will do the trick. If it's still stuck, the breakage happens when you go to turn the top nut off the tube. If the tube is stuck in the fixture, everything attached to it will turn as a result, causing the gas supply lines to break. I believe these lines have a double crimp at the end, so a layman might not be able to reproduce that crimp, however, if the line broke further "upstream" you might be able to install a brass coupler to mend the beak in the gas line. Obviously, you'll need to cut away any bent or unviable tubing before a brass coupler can be installed.

[@fredricksickelbower9431]

@@frankhamilton8257 Thanks again. Sounds like I better call a pro. How would you get the burner off when the venturi turns 360 degrees with out coming out.

[@billrossi2378]

How do you remove the wire from the igniter?

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. The wires are outfitted with spade connectors which allow the wire to push onto the connector on both ends.

[@Annisquam244]

@@frankhamilton8257 Thanks. I was able to drill out the frozen Venturi tube with a step drill bit ($50). Another KZbinr suggested it. Surprisingly, only the burner holder was broken (it broke when I tried to unfreeze the Venturi tube) but both jets were still in tact and connected to the gas lines. So I need a replacement Venturi tube and a holder. Are the jets easily cleanable or should I replace them too since I’m in the burner compartment anyway?

[@frankhamilton8257]

​@@Annisquam244 The Venturi holders are available from a number of different vendors, however, you may try using JB Weld to rejoin the metal. Use some small gauge round stock on either side to reinforce the bond. It's not uncommon for those low flame jets to get clogged in these units because the low flame jet is the first item to get attacked with goop on a boil over. I have all the brass parts on this burner, including the Venturi, the orifices (both the low flame and high flame orifices), the top nut and the bottom nut. I would suggest dabbing a ring of high temp silicon underneath all of the burner heads when you reassemble to seal them from any future boil over events. If you fit some high temp sleeve over those spark ignitor wires, you'll be set for life. Since the original wires are insulated with cloth, they tend to short out to chassis ground after years of use and exposure to high and low temperatures. The resulting condition will lead to a constant spark condition which will eventually burn out the spark ignitor box. I do a high temp sleeving kit for these wires that's good for 1200 degree F in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZ-6en-Lo8tla68 I now include a bodkin in my kit to easily thread the wire through the insulator no matter how long it is. Make sure to subscribe to my channel.

[@frankhamilton8257]

@@Annisquam244 I actually carry orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. Once the jets get clogged, they cant be unclogged and must be bored. If this is a natural gas unit (depending on the model) the bore on these is usually a #74 drill for natural gas and a #80 for propane. I've certainly done my share of them and, for all that trouble, you may as well just replace the jet. I also have those Venturi tubes, but I don't carry the orifice holder. The piece is still availabe on the market, and is made of pot metal, so you can JB Weld that piece back together and you can use round metal stock to reinforce it. This piece is not under stress, so the fix doesn't need to be very technical.

[@KeepitMovingTV1211]

Can u name the parts

[@frankhamilton8257]

This set up consists of several small parts that act as a system comprised to function as a "burner." The base of the unit is called the "orifices holder" because the actual orifice screws into it. It has a threaded top portion that's designed to hold the base (the black part), the venturi tube, the bottom chamber of the burner, the top chamber of the burner, the spark ignitor and the burner cap. This particular burner system has a brass retainer nut to hold the bottom chamber of the burner in place and a bottom nut to hold it into the spill plate. I make all the brass parts for these burner system including the orifices, the venturi tube and the large brass nuts. If your unit is older, heat cycling will cause some of these parts to fuse together, requiring destructive removal to access the inner working of the burner. Contact 714-574-1544.

[@didisinclair3605]

Just my home owner two cents.. my simmer level is useless!!! no simmer happens, just like a poach.. I try to turn it up just a bit, and I get full on boil. Maddening.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544 during normal Midwest business hours. If your unit has the type of burner featured here, the issue is likely that the simmer jet has become clogged. I've worked with hundreds of these DCS units over the years and I'm here to say DCS designed a very innovative burner, but there are also inherent flaws in the execution. First of all, the base of this particular burner does not use an O-ring to seal the under pan and the works contained therein. As a result, a boil over often results in liquid dripping down into the opening of the simmer orifice. When it dries, the simmer orifice can becomes clogged. I have the tiny simmer orifices available to fix this issue. I also recommend sealing up the base of these burners with a bead of silicon when you put it back together. While you're in there, you may consider sleeving the spark ignitors with high temp shielding to keep them working properly. The sleeve that I have is good for 1,200 degrees F and, once you've performed the simple steps that I recommend, you'll likely never need to open your unit ever again. I have a video on using this high temp sleeve at: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZ-6en-Lo8tla68 Make sure to subscribe to my channel.

[@chaseferguson9419]

DCS is horrible, you look at the burner wrong and it starts clicking the slightest boil-over and you got to disassemble to clean. Horrible design.

[@chaseferguson9419]

and don't get me started on the oven. burns half the pizza while the other half is undercooked. But hey, it's stainless and it looks really cool. I miss my white porcelain stove from 1992.