Ducati Hypermotard 1100 S Final Engine Assembly, Lamb Chops Rides Engine Build Episode 2

[@DucatiM1100]

Top Video👍🏼 i'm rebuilding my 696 engine with 87000 km this winter.

[@DesmoWerx]

Thanks, good luck with your build 👍🙂

[@MrYamaDuc]

Another great video and really pleased your back.

[@DesmoWerx]

Many thanks, will be getting back to more regular content this year. Thanks for the support. Hit like to support the channel if not done already 👍🙂

[@blowduke]

Fine looking engine 👍

[@DesmoWerx]

Sure is, it came up really nice 😍

[@shanebingham8137]

Top man glad your back, being missing your educational videos helped me out.

[@DesmoWerx]

Thanks, am planning to be more regular with content this year to get the channel back to growing 👍🙂

[@thediddly]

I find leaving the silicone on for an hour or so once cases are together, the dried silicone will peel off rather than smearing a wet one on the cases

[@DesmoWerx]

I agree, only did Chop's engine wet as originally the plan was to take the engine as soon as we finished and it stops it smearing when handling the engine. 😊

[@LeTessier916]

Thanks for publishing this Nelly. I appreciate the extra detail in your videos over John's. When I'm putting together my Desmoquattro and Testastretta engines I always run some of your videos again because of the clarity and level of detail. Hope you have some more jobs to do that you can video

[@DesmoWerx]

Thanks, plenty more to come this year I have some more customer jobs lined up as well as wanting to finish my 916 engine and a few other personal projects 😊

[@timec818]

You so great video 👍

[@DesmoWerx]

Thank you 🤗

[@xyesman5519]

Nice build. Wonder if you or commenters ever follow the manual for belts tensionning. The manual calls for loosening the 3 camshafts allen screws when the shaft is immobilzed using the pins inserted on the side?

[@DesmoWerx]

More often than not I have found that the timing only moves when using an old belt (Stretch) or if I have had to replace the pully wheel (i.e. disturbed timing) in these cases I will loosen it off and follow the process as per manual to get the belt tension. I should also mention that off camera I also did a basic timing check initially when I did a piston to valve clearance check. When the belt has settled I may well need to adjust the timing for LCR to accommodate any new belt stretch. But in this build I was able to set the belt to an initial tension to turn over the engine, this was slightly higher than spec by chance so when I set it to 140 +/- 5hz I then put it back to horizontal TDC and checked head cam timing pins could push back in which they did. I just think we missed filming that check, if they would not have fitted I would have loosened the 3 pully bolts to realign the timing and would have shown that.

[@xyesman5519]

Thanks mate

[@maximesanchez]

Great things done in this video! Thanks! I was wondering for the belts tension : when you use the camshaft locker pins, shouldn't you unscrew the 3 adjusting pulley bolts to let the cam shaft exactly in his position while you apply tension on the belts? Thanks again. Cheers.

[@DesmoWerx]

As per the other comment, if you are timing your own engine for the first time I would follow the manual. However, wore often than not I have found that the timing only moves when using an old belt (Stretch) or if I have had to replace the pully wheel (i.e. disturbed timing) in these cases I will loosen it off and follow the process as per manual to get the belt tension. I should also mention that off camera I also did a basic timing check initially when I did a piston to valve clearance check. When the belt has settled I may well need to adjust the timing for LCR to accommodate any new belt stretch. But in this build I was able to set the belt to an initial tension to turn over the engine, this was slightly higher than spec by chance so when I set it to 140 +/- 5hz I then put it back to horizontal TDC and checked head cam timing pins could push back in which they did. I just think we missed filming that check, if they would not have fitted I would have loosened the 3 pully bolts to realign the timing and would have shown that.

[@TheCooperville]

Excellent video and great amount of detail Do you have somewhere we can download you shim clearance calculator?

[@DesmoWerx]

Thanks 👍🙂 Will be doing something for an upcoming channel update around a shim exchange service and the calc tool I pulled together.

[@848evo4]

always so enjoyable to watch you work. have you built an 848 with the big bore kit1038/1040cc?

[@DesmoWerx]

Not something I have been asked to so but I will have to see if I can do one as a side project sometime 👍🙂 Have all the parts to do a 1036 in a 996 engine though.

[@848evo4]

@@DesmoWerx I have wondered how much power and torque you'd get from it and is it worth it

[@philippelefevre1634]

Thanks for this video as usual. I have a 1100 HM with 47 000 kms and that is interesting for me in the future . Do you know where I can find also the shim clearance calculator. What is your next project ?

[@DesmoWerx]

Haven't decided on which is the next project, I have some small items to resolve on the ST2 a Auto Blipper to fit to the 1199 and then its whether to rebuild a damaged 1299 or do the 916SPS build. There are some customer jobs coming in as well including a 916 engine and another Hypermotard bottom end build. There will be some channel updates coming soon including memberships etc which will include Shim exchange services and the Calc sheet

[@roberthernandez999]

I just bought a 2009 monster 1100. The valve broke on the previous owner and put a hole in the piston. I haven't torn it apart yet to see the extent of the damage. In your experience, without being able to see it, would you lean towards a rebuild or look for a used engine? I'm new to the Ducati world, any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.

[@calvinhutton57]

Great video! A question on something you may have experience with, on the selector drum, does the small spacer/shim on the detent side have a wave or is it a flat spacer? I am busy with my 999 and when I disassembled the gearbox I noticed a slight bend on the small spacer on the selector drum. I have the correct end float but only if I move the drum with a bit of force to compress the shim? Does not seem correct to me.

[@DesmoWerx]

Not had a wavy shim in any Ducti engine I have taken apart or built for the shift drum. They should be flat and there are different sizes for some of the Ducati provided shims listed in the parts manual. I think you may have a damaged shim on yours. They are cheap to source from Ducati.

[@calvinhutton57]

@@DesmoWerx thank you! That confirms my suspicion! Will add a new one to my list of required parts!

[@darrellholmes1561]

How much roughly did the parts come to? As in the New Bearings, Gaskets and so on. The items you used not the dressing up of the engine?

[@DesmoWerx]

Hi Darrell, The parts for the actual engine build were £700 all in.

[@janborovka1062]

How many km or miles this engine had? Thank you

[@DesmoWerx]

I am not sure, I don't think it was much but LCR was restoring the whole bike. It may be in one of his first videos on the 1100

[@giedriusbruzas6542]

Hello, im rebuilding a ducati m600 1995 engine, its main bearings are RHP 7307X2TB and RHP 7207X2ETN, could I replace them with SKF 7307 BECBM and SKF 7207 BECBM ?

[@DesmoWerx]

I would not recommend anything other than the RHP bearings, for the small saving you will make using alternates it is not worth the risk. I cannot remember the contact face angle but it is an odd one in the RHP bearings which makes them difficult to match.