How To change a High Pressure Fuel Rail Sensor In Your 2006 Ford Explorer!

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This is a step by step instructional video on changing the high pressure fuel rail sensor in your 2006 Ford Explorer . A list of tools that you will need for the job will be listed in the video and will be listed below
TOOLS NEEDED
-Rachet&Extension
-8mm Deep Socket
-10mm Deep socket
-T30 Torx Bit
-27mm Wrench
(or Crescent Wrench)
-Pliers
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[@traveleraz8269]

There is a special place in hell for automobile engineers who put stuff in inaccessible places like this. Good video. Thank you for the time you took to make it.

[@automotiveperformancemobil4030]

Quick tip, don't use power tools for something so simple especially directly over an intake manifold. He could have easily dropped that torx bit and/or screw directly off in the intake and pray to th car Gods that the valve wasn't open. Just take the extra time to loosen with a ratchet and finish by hand and safely hold the bolt and bit.

[@coolpeanuts23]

This is everything I ever wanted in a video

[@johnlowery8942]

I just replaced a fuel rail sensor on a 2005 explorer and it took bout 3hrs roughly .hard part was getting the Torx bit on the # torx bolt in the very back .putting it back together was easy pesy!word of wise,the hardest part of the whole job is that very back torx bolt !!!!!

[@dudewecanfixit]

Awesome, I hope the video tutorial was helpful

[@johnlowery8942]

Yep it was actually the most through step by step video on the internet .thAnks a million!

[@dudewecanfixit]

No problem. I filmed that one solo, so I wasn't able to video taking out the bolts. I have more equipment now, so future videos will only get better.

[@johnlowery8942]

Dude We Can Fix It all bolts were easy to get to .but that very back one was a bitch! Lol

[@brittonmajor3118]

Amazing video! Showed me exactly what I needed. Thanks guys!

[@dudewecanfixit]

appreciate the feed back!

[@54egg]

Tip: For me, cell phone in video record mode (with live video preview and video light on) worked wonders for seeing the rear most bolt to guide torx bit into place.

[@dudewecanfixit]

That is a good way to do it. I reach my fingers back to locate the bolt and guide the torx bit into it. Wobble extension helps.

[@kggoodheart3552]

Great vid thank you

[@timgatton]

Excellent video, but 3 overlooked items. First, the exhaust recirc line needs to be pried out about 1/2" in order to get the manifold off. Second, to get the manifold BACK on, you need to push the bolts of the manifold UP into the manifold (they are mounted in sliding sleeves) ... push them up so they don't drag and get in your way. Finally, be prepared to lay on top of the engine to work the Torx bolts ... you'll need a pad of some sort as the hood latch can be used as a spear !! ... and for what it's worth, the interlude music is just too damn loud.

[@dudewecanfixit]

All very good points! We appreciate the feedback. Also, on our newer videos, we have toned down the music

[@timgatton]

by the way ... I discovered that the PLASTIC intake manifold gets pretty brittle with all the years of thermal cycling ... mine cracked during the process and caused all sorts of codes. If you don't change it (it's about $250), make sure you smoke test your air intake system. I found that not only did a gasket slip out of place during the install, but I cracked it during the effort and had to replace it.

[@dudewecanfixit]

That's good information! Thanks for sharing

[@jasonpalmere695]

FYI besure to change the screws that hold down the manifold, the rubber get compressed and does not tighten down the intake to the head.

[@dudewecanfixit]

Thanks for the tip

[@jordancoxe7567]

Beautiful job

[@dudewecanfixit]

Thank you! 😊

[@juanjgonzalez1212]

Great Job I need to replace mine

[@jamesontaylor]

Awesome video

[@jamesontaylor]

Works for 2006 to 2010

[@dudewecanfixit]

Thank you!

[@juanbernal344]

Do you have to torque the manifold bolts down to a certain poundage

[@dudewecanfixit]

There's probably a torque spec, but I snugged the bolts and then did a quarter turn more. Make sure to get them all hand tight first, then snug them all, then torque them all so that the manifold lays flat.

[@JK-hd2zb]

On the 2006 Explorer 4.0 SOHC the 8 intake manifold bolts are torqued to 8 lb-ft. The fuel pressure sensor bolts get torqued to 53 lb-in

[@King-sm4tg]

Best video

[@dudewecanfixit]

Thanks!

[@michaeldavis4991]

What is the time estimate for the whole job

[@dudewecanfixit]

Depends on your skill level. Anywhere from 2 hours for a pro to 6 hours for a rookie. If you don't do a lot of wrenching, you might want to set aside a whole day.

[@Mr18wheeler2012]

Most if not all of these videos don't show you taking off the manifold screws, especially the one in the back! It's not easy to get off. I have to do mine too. So I ordered an lighted mirror, magnet puller, and gasket set from Amazon. Waiting for it to come. I ordered the light mirror so I can see the screws in the back and the magnet puller just in case I drop a screw. It can pull up to 15 Lbs! And he didn't show spraying that exhaust pipe BEFORE unscrewing it. You have to lube it FIRST for at lease 1 hour. Better over night. Remember it's been on there since 2005 so it's NOT gonna just screw off that easy!

[@tupacforsure5954]

Can you please post a link to the Light/Modem you bought. thanks

[@dudewecanfixit]

Good points, penetrating oil definitely helps. I was able to get the last bolt with the wobble extension that I showed. I didn't use a mirror, but I'm sure one would help. I was going to film that part as well, but it proved to be too difficult by myself. I will try to have my cameraman handy on future videos.

[@tarstakars]

I have the exact same code for the sensor but with zero symptoms so I'm wondering what else it could be

[@jtugfestiva]

What issues did you get before replacing it? I’m having intermittent crank no start.

[@dudewecanfixit]

Rough idle was the primary symptom

[@timothyc7808]

I recently installed mine and notice fuel leaking from the sensor. (Used UV dye to determine a leak in the new sensor). Would it be I didn’t tighten it enough?

[@dudewecanfixit]

It's probably tight enough, what you need to make sure the o ring is seated properly and not torn or ripped. Also, make sure to clean the o ring and the hole before installing.

[@JK-hd2zb]

2006 Explorer 4.0L SOHC 8 intake manifold bolts are torqued to 8 lb-ft. The 2 fuel pressure sensor bolts get torqued to 53 lb-inch

[@dudewecanfixit]

Thanks for the info!

[@thewave561]

What are the symptoms of this needing to be changed? I have the check engine code and know it needs to be replaced. Thanks for this video, I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge!

[@dudewecanfixit]

Rough idle and lack of power. Check engine light

[@thewave561]

Thanks so much, that explains a lot.

[@dudewecanfixit]

No problem, good luck!

[@bustacapp359]

@@dudewecanfixit. What about white smoke out of the exhaust?

[@dudewecanfixit]

White smoke is usually a coolant leak, water in the exhaust

[@Mr.Caring]

What was the truck doing that that led you too replace the sensor

[@dudewecanfixit]

Inconsistent idle and lack of power

[@paulgarcia2792]

@@dudewecanfixit I just changed my fuel pump and fuel filter still having problems when I turn my truck on the rpm revs up real high then when I drove it feels like it ain't getting no gas and turns off. When I turn back on have to give it a lot of gas to keep it from turning off. Think I should replace the sencer too. Any help would be great.Cant figure out what to do

[@angeltavarez7555]

I have change the sensor and still running rich on fuel put s p black, can u help?

[@dudewecanfixit]

I would suspect an airflow issue. Dirty filter or mass airflow sensor maybe

[@owenwillis4194]

Be very careful. Do not strip the hex bolts. It can be done very easy. Almost impossible to get them out if you do. especially the back one. This can also be done without removing the egr. Just use a block of wood to prop manifold up for access to sensor.

[@robc7323]

I recently pulled my 05 Mountaineer engine to replace the timing chains/guides. I have done a lot of work on the vehicle over the years (~240k miles) so the torx bolts were already in rough shape. The metal is very soft. I ended up stripping the back one (of course). I tried a number of extractor/grabber tools but nothing worked. I then tried to cut a slot with a Dremel + cutting wheel so that I could get a socket with a flat heat bit on it but the metal was so soft it would just bend under torque... I had to use my phone camera to see what I was doing... finally, I just took the dremmel to the head and took the whole head off... then the intake finally came off. I used vise grips to remove the remaining stem. After that, I found some aftermarket hex head bolts online to use as replacements. I hate torx bolts.

[@dudewecanfixit]

Wow, what an adventure! I'm glad you shared that information though, it might really help some people.

[@richs7362]

Hope that screw that was dropped from the sensor didn't go into the engine.

[@dudewecanfixit]

It landed in the valley, luckily

[@tarstakars]

I always cover the intake openings with a towel on any engine before working with little fiddly bits to prevent disaster from happening

[@dgsbms]

Tri pod

[@electricsanti4518]

Why that sensor goes bad, are there any symptoms or some diagnostic?

[@dudewecanfixit]

They go bad because they are manufactured by FMC. As far as symptoms, you will usually get a code P0193 and the vehicle will run poorly.

[@gavinvalentino6002]

Like almost every sensor on the vehicle and fuel-management system, they're not "manufactured by FMC." They're manufactured by a supplier who sells them to FMC after extensive in-hoise testing and comparison and quality control versus other manufacturer's sensors also submitted for consideration, and they're given a Ford part number. Smarmy little remarks about a car company, suggesting that every factory-made part is sub-par, are a stupid way to present yourself to the world... almost as stupid as those ruficulously embarassing shoes you're wearing, the kind typically seen being worn by old men in nursing homes who can't tie laces anymore. Engineers and extremely intelligent professionals designed the part. This vehicle in this video was at least 15 years old. Guess what? Sensors subjected to heat/vibration/use for a decade and a half go bad after thousands and thousands of hours of use, regardless of who makes them or what brand of vehicle they're on.

[@dudewecanfixit]

Tell that to my 1998 Toyota Camry with over 460K miles of use. It has also been completely underwater for 3 days and I have not replaced any sensors on it. That is good build quality. On these Fords, the fuel pressure sensor is a well-known, common, failure prone sensor. It is likely that FMC realized this early on when they were replacing them under warranty. I'm not saying that every OEM part is crap, however, this definitely goes on the long list of FMC failure prone parts. Right up there with Ford's famous 2 piece spark plugs (I'd like to see you defend Ford engineers for that!). #dontreinventthewheel Gavin Valentino

[@bidbigger2437]

you are lucky the screw didnt fall inside the motor lol next time you might want to put some rags in there so you dont drop anything in there

[@dudewecanfixit]

Absolutely! Appreciate the feedback

[@Mr.Caring]

Read about what JESUS did this is mine blowing. Can you believe this, did you ever hear of this about HIM Romans 10:5/10, c u there $$🧐i

[@kevinnelson4976]

His video is full of bullshit cause I did it before and removing the screws on top of the manifold is hard as hell, that's why he cuts the video.

[@dudewecanfixit]

I was recording solo on this video. Future videos will be more comprehensive and will have a camera man present. Thank you for your opinion.