E39 Rear Control Arm Replacement + Update

How to replace the upper rear wishbone control arm in an E39 BMW 5-series sedan.

[@ethiopianeyes]

a 7mm wrench on the end of the control arm bolt works best. thats why its squared off.

[@TheultimateDIYmachine]

First of all thanks for the video it's very helpful. How do you know the exact distance you have to lift up under the brake disc in order to preload the suspension for the last torque? Do you do it by feeling, 10 cm for example? Sorry for my English (I am from Spain) and thanks in advance for the answers!

[@E39Source]

Lift it enough that it would emulate the normal sitting position of the car. So I jacked it up until the car raised off of the jack stand and was supported by the wheel hub.

[@edva135]

if im lowering car with lowering springs , do i need to retighten control arm imitating car preload? or its no necessary? because when doing front end,we need to retighten arms

[@E39Source]

If it's much of a drop at all, say over 1/4", I would want to re-torque the inner arm bushings at ride height.

[@protabali2203]

brilliant job and video good to see you pointing out the correct way to torque up suspension bolts by loading the suspension.....allot of other video do not mention this and are passing on bad practice to DIYers....thanks again

[@yiannidee]

do you think that the rear caster be off because of that arm?

[@E39Source]

It could be, but these arms don't generally hurt the caster too much. I would check the rear ball joints.

[@jnambo5500]

Also I over tightened the back bolt too much and part of the metal bent as I tighten the nut.

[@binniedj]

Good job!!! I just completed this job on my 540i along with struts and the guide link. Rides like a new car now!!!

[@KnightRider1790]

Clean the contact surface Disc and wheels, secure it. Lemforder & Bilstein best brand.

[@Angelo80907]

Hey Ryan 2024 and still watching your videos you’ve come a long way!

[@E39Source]

Thank you!

[@only1balto]

Thanks for the video! Need a DIY for the front trust at,ms to get rid of my shimmy :)

[@pwkartsbikes8443]

comparing to the dealership how much money you re spending

[@JosueDonis]

I'm having problem unscrewing the outer bolt by the rotor. I turn it n it all turns

[@ethiopianeyes]

put a 7mm wrench on the end of the bolt. thats why its square

[@paullevy6703]

Thanks for the video. Was helpful.

[@marksmith3965]

Pretty good video but vice-grips are not automotive tools and can disfigure or ruin nuts and bolts as they are capable of producing forces in excess of 2000 ft/lb. Lastly it's not possible to torque anything "by feel"..just say "I tightened the f**k out of it"..lol..good job m8

[@MrNYUNDERCOVER]

Keep them coming......

[@yoyoxa1994]

how much did it cost

[@Catalina3600]

Great video# thanks

[@Catalina3600]

@Catalina3600 *thanks

[@jnambo5500]

What would be the part # or the bolt for the 21mm in the back of the control arm?

[@E39Source]

+Jose Nambo this should be it 33321091058

[@jnambo5500]

E39Source that's a lot. I tightened the rear bolt too much to the point it began to bend into a V-shape.

[@mrbugatti95]

Im looking to replace my front thrust arms because I'm experiencing a shimmy above 50-60mph and under light/medium braking. Do you suggest a specific brand? I was looking at TRW control arms, and I didn't want to go the cheap aftermarket route because I've heard some mixed reviews about them

[@E39Source]

Lemforder is OEM, get them from FCP Euro.

[@mrbugatti95]

+E39Source I've read online that trw and lemforder are used interchangeably for oem BMW parts. Is this true?

[@BobbyOHearn]

+mrbugatti95 actually you're right. TRW and Lemforder are essentially the same. I learned something new today! :)

[@mrbugatti95]

+Bobby O'Hearn +E39Source do you know if the quality of either TRW or lemforder is better or are they equally the same?

[@E39Source]

Lemforder was the OE, the original equipment that was supplied to BMW to produce the car. TRW is another "high quality aftermarket". I would go with Lemforder.