E46 320d 136hp - VP44 fuel pump removal

This is a long video describing how to pull out a VP44 fuel pump from BMW 320D 136 hp (2001 pre-lift version).
I'm doing this first time in my life so i took me about 4 hours, video is cut to 45 minutes.
You essentially need two special tools for removal:
- Crank shaft locking pin
- Fuel pump sprocket removal tool for BMW
And
- Torque wrench
- Normal set of tools
Now in my case i did run into some problems, the aftermarket dual mass fly wheel did NOT have the BMW indent for the tool so i had quite a bit of problems when mounting the pump back in - but i managed it and the car works just fine.
The process is relatively simple and brakes down into following steps:
- Set your engine first cylinder in top position
- Slide in crankshaft locking pin (it should click into indent)
- Marker on Cam shaft should point uppwards parrael to your cylinders (renember engine sits in the chassies at an angle!)
- Lock the pump in using special screw
- Detach pump sprocket using special tool
- Remove fuel pump
IF these steps are done correctly, you wont need any special tools when placing the pump back in. In other case you may need a clock sensor to adjust your pump static angle

[@Kluczownik2]

Cześć Mam pytanie, ponieważ wycieka mi paliwo z pod śruby blokującej pompę a widziałem że ją wykręcasz, wyjmujesz blaszkę i wkręcasz ponownie.. Czy mogę ją bez ustawiania silnika w GMP wykręcić wymienić oring/uszczelnić i wkręcić z podkładką ponownie? Poza blokowaniem pompy po wyjęciu blaszki ma ona jakieś inne zadanie i coś przestawi się w pompie?

[@pwilkutowski]

Możesz - tak długo jak nie odepniesz zębaki pompy od samej pompy, nie ma możliwości żeby cokolwiek się przestawiło

[@Kluczownik2]

Dziękuje za pomocną odpowiedź.

[@bujargashi1469]

Hello there..I have a bmw 318d 2002 and I had a problem on it while I was driving it stop and wont start..the mechanic repaired the bochpoumb that it cost to much for me ..but now my car lost the power especialy in begining when I start the car than it stop the power again while I want to drive fast..what is the issue. Thank you

[@pwilkutowski]

It's impossible to tell anything over network. You need a solid diagnosis but 2002.. isn't that common rail one ? Any way check the static angle on the pump and check the injection advance - this comes to my mind IF you had pump related problems I added multiple comments here just read through them, there is a description how to approach it

[@matys998]

Witam, jeżeli zablokuję wał oraz pompę, to przy ponownym montażu mam 100% pewności, że zostanie zamontowana poprawnie, czy za każdym razem trzeba ustawić początek tłoczenia przy pomocy czujnika zegarowego? To samo się tyczy nowej lub regenerowanej pompy, otrzymujemy zablokowane bezpośrednio do zamontowania ?

[@pwilkutowski]

Witam "...to przy ponownym montażu mam 100% pewności, że zostanie zamontowana poprawnie.." Tak jeżeli zblokujesz oba elementy i ich NIE przestawisz to przy montażu masz 100% pewności iż będzie poprawnie. Z tym że u siebie robiłem regeneracje i pompa była przestawiona na fabryczne 0 jeżeli masz zamiar regenerować na pewno ci ją przestawią. Co do nowych lub regenerowanych pomp - zawsze czujnik, pompa ma wybity indywidualny kąt wyprzedzenia na obudowie np 0.43 i wg. tej wartości należy ustawić auto za pomocą czujnika zegarowego

[@matys998]

@@pwilkutowski dzięki za informację, u mnie padł elektrozawór kąta wtrysku, niestety nie dam rady go wyjąć bez demontażu pompy.

[@lukinsiekel8136]

Hey I just want to ask how you pull out that fuelpump what which was blocked? In which direction is "that tooth"situated?

[@pwilkutowski]

ok you may be mixing two things. The tooth is on the camshaft and is used to set the top most point on cyl. 1, you can see it through the oil cap - just turn the crank shaft around. If you want the car to start properly you need to set the cyl 1 properly before detaching the pump As for the Fuel pump - its locked by the timing chain sprocket, you can see me using the special tool to detach the sprocket. After that I'm removing 4 bolts from the pump it self and just pulling the pump out.

[@krzysiekjak5289]

witam robiłem remont silnika kapitalny zablokowalem pompę tak jak mówisz a potem odblokowalem na ustawionym rozrządzie teraz ciężko pali i bardzo dymi mi na biało gęsto. Gdy odpali wkreca się a czasem nie i gdy spada z obrotów czasem ledwo wróci na obroty bez gazu a najczęściej gaśnie. przestawiła się ?

[@pwilkutowski]

Tak na bank przestawiona jak na biało.dymi to masz prawdopodobnie za późno wtrysk paliwa (pewnie jak tłok już miną gmp, nie spalona ropa = biały dym). Skomponuj sobie dis / inpa oraz interface tam się da zobaczyc jaki jest kąt wtrysku z wtryskiwacza sterującego. Prawdopodobnie będziesz miał mocno cofniety. Ustawiłeś tłok w gmp prawidłowo? Pamiętaj że tam na walku jest nacięcie wskazujące. Trochę ci to zajmie Ale dasz to radę sam ustawic. Po trochu cofaj rozrząd względem pompy, skrecaj zebatke i testuj

[@krzysiekjak5289]

Rozrząd był na blokadach jak wczesniej wspomniałem (remont kapitalny) wał zablokowany oraz na wałki blokada pasowała. Serdecznie dziękuję za szybką odpowiedź jak coś będę pisał; ) pozdrawiam

[@krzysiekjak5289]

Przemysław Wilkutowski Czyli teraz zdjąć/ poluzowac zębate na pompie i delikatnie cofać rozrząd dokrecić ja i testować?

[@pwilkutowski]

@@krzysiekjak5289 tak dokładnie luzujesz zębatek i delikatnie cofasz zakrecasz i sprawdzisz. A potem test inpa czy pompa ma pełny zakres wyprzedzania. I tak do skutku

[@krzysiekjak5289]

Przemysław Wilkutowski pompę trzeba blokować przy cofaniu wału

[@mariusbaluta3225]

hi, i have a bmw 318d 2002 and takes 8 second to start.but once it starts, if I stop it it starts quickly

[@pwilkutowski]

Well sounds like you don't hae fuel in the pump try this morning before starting prime it like 5 times before cranking If this helps then you are losing low presurised fuel line (it's flowing back to the tank) Other case can be the injectors leaking and the pump leaking internally. Does it smoke black after the rough start?

[@mariusbaluta3225]

@@pwilkutowski the smoke is white and blue

[@joaosousa126]

Hello, I have the same engine, sometimes I lose acceleration, even pressing the pedal all the way in.. only happens sometimes... the errors I got are from MAF and Fuel Pump... Should I be worried about the fuel pump and replace the maf to see if it runs fine? Maybe previous owner changed fuel pump and never cleared error so it stayed there... Or could a bad VP44 still run and only go out sometimes? Thanks man

[@pwilkutowski]

Actually, yes and no MAF's were defective on these, there was a series of MAF's that had a defect while different (newer) series had no defect BUT it required ECU upgrade after installing to work properly. I dont have this car so i don't remember, but if you search internet you should find the info on MAF's. Remember you could identify the faulty ones by the Maf part number. I had a faulty one in mine (did not read full air flow) and I had to buy newer version and update my ECU. That's a place to start - as for VP44 yes it could be that but no way of telling without testing. Start with checking the MAF numbers and if you can chcek in DIS if your pump can achive full range of work. Also i suggest checking the electric 'valve' that steers the turbine (the one with vacuum hoses). There is a small filter there that CAN get clogged OR you may have a random vacuum leak somewhere

[@joaosousa126]

@@pwilkutowski Thank you so much for the fast and thorough answer! Quick question, is it possible to DIS on my pump without removing it? I wanted a way of finding my problem before wasting any more money on the car..

[@pwilkutowski]

Yes, there is a test in there that does this. IF I remember correct : - Start the motor > start DIS injection angle advancement test - ECU Sets the RPM to I believe 3k or so - Moves the Pump piston to Full retard state - Moves pump to full advanced state **Not engine WILL stumble run rough while preforming this test** IF the pump can achieve BOTH full required advance and full required retard then the piston is moving and car should have fill power. One problem here - if there are shavings that are blocking piston 'randomly' this test wont help. but its worth to run it. One more suggestion try tapping into low pressure fuel return line and chcek if there are any metal shavings going OUT from the pump. These pumps typically fail due to transistor failure (electrical failure piston movement is NOT possible due to lack of electrical power). Or due to piston mechanical damage (metal is shaving of the piston in the pump) But also do chcek that turbo electric valve I mentioned before.

[@reinis9999]

mybe you know hove to stand hight presure pump in start position before you insital it ? and whats position you need cam shaft regulation ?

[@pwilkutowski]

Ok this is a bit complicated, and my English is limiting me here The pump it self outside of engine should be set by a adjusting table to initial point, and then put into engine that has the 1 cyl set in most top point. I'm not sure if you can set the pump it self not on an engine - you may need to get it to a shop for setting the IP on the pump it self I know how to set the static angle between the engine AND the pump - if this ill help: There is a small 'tooth' on the cam shaft, you can see it through the oil cap. The trick is that BEFORE you pull out the pump you need to have this tooth aligned with the piston and pointing upwards. *Take note the axis of the piston is slightly angled so 'pointing upward' NEEDS to be parallel with the piston. Then you should have a pin / tool placed in the fly wheel to lock the top dead point. Now if you didn't do that or there was a mistake done and the engine is NOT set to top dead point, you will have some problems but its still possible to set the engine. I had this issue and i was able to set my ending dead on. 1) If possible GET the static angle measurement tool / clock. I think you can live without it but its going to be easier when you have it. 2) On the pump cone that the timing chain goes on - there is an indent this indent should be pointing to high pressure line no.1 3) Read the angle advancement from the pump mine had 0.55 yours will have something else. 4)put the pup in screw it down with the sprocket 5) Screw in the clock tool into pump 6) rotate the shaft until 1st cyl dead point 7) Read the clock depending if your readout is bellow or above the value you will need to push timing chain forward or backward. This can be done by loosening the timing chain sprocket on the pump, locking the pump and then turning the shaft ever so slightly forward or aft. Problem is to check your value you will need to screw everything back unlock the pump and then make a full round and read again. It is time consuming but it CAN be done - in my case the pump timing was 30 desegregate ahead or more (initially the car didn't start at all) But using above steps i adjusted it basically to the point. Also remember to run tests on DIS afterwards this will tell you IF the desired angle CAN be achieved by the pump (it goes -3 to +14 degrees). If it can't get to these - you need to correct it slightly by same steps as above

[@aliraqil3adhim31]

Hello Przemyslaw Wilkutowski please tell me more about that indent on the high pressure pump. i was able to find two. one is looking like a really small copper pin forced into the pump cone, where the chain goes on and the other one is milled into the top point of the pump cone and looks like a half circle (where the locking nut from the chain pulley goes on) which one is the right one? please help me with this!

[@pwilkutowski]

Sorry i din't notice the comment in time ;/ Youtybe coments management system is garbage So its the half circle, this is the one i meant. Its like this - if you pull out the pump - the half circle indent should be pointing somewhat to line 1. But this is *just for rough estimate*, the truth is you have to have the 1 cyl top 'dead' point set. If you locked your shaft properly the indent will be there, if its not pointing to pressure line 1 - something is wrong and most likely your 1 cyl is not in the top most point (check the camshaft 'tooth') This was my exact problem when i pulled out mine as i did not set the 1 cyl in dead point - tbh its not a big deal but just adds a lot of work when putting the pump back in

[@FlAvIuS861]

i got a 7 series e65 and my oil level suddely go up, i do some diggin online and some say can be the injectors leaking in the oil or the high pressure fuel pump any ideeas tanks?

[@pwilkutowski]

tbh not relay Did you do overfill test with injectors ? does it smoke white? Cant say as i dont know 7 series

[@FlAvIuS861]

@@pwilkutowski yes no smoke ata all i did the injector test they look very good my hope is the high pressure pump is the problem ...

[@pwilkutowski]

@@FlAvIuS861 well ok but if the injectors don't leak then how would this fuel got into the oil? pump may be faulty thats true bit i dont see any wayt for the pump to get oil into the motor - it has to be through the injectors - btw how is our antifreeze level ? any discoloration in oil ? - Does this car have DPF filter ? Assuming you are running disel engine, and if you have DPF then its possible that ECU is trying to burn off (clean out) DPF and its getting more fuel in to get DPF temperatures higher Check if you have DPF if you do you wont see any smoke, also with DPF you have cyclic clean outs of DPF doen by ECU. If your DPF is cloget enough it may cause the cart to constantly try to burn it off and run rich fuel mixture> That could be the reason

[@FlAvIuS861]

@@pwilkutowski dpf was checked also been told looks like brand new very good condition,coolant also good level not leaking. This can be caused by running the car on poor quality Diesel which can eat the fuel pump seals, fuel then leaks from the fuel pump into the sump causing it to be too high in level

[@moatzel8018]

yes its verry helpful

[@valcic1993]

when you squeezed the sprocket from the pump did you have a tool or no tools? in my case, the pump phase shifts when tightening the screws

[@pwilkutowski]

You mean sprocket that drives the pump? This was long time ago but yes I had a tool for the sprocket. Also there is a blocking screw in the pump it self on the side

[@valcic1993]

@@pwilkutowski I squeeze the blockage on the pump. I put it on the engine. I squeeze the 110nm pump sprocket. I release the pump lock check with a comparator if the pump is in time (0.90). but it is not because it moves when the sprocket is tightened

[@pwilkutowski]

@@valcic1993 Ok i got it, but there is a problem the blockade on the pump will not hold yup to 110 NM You do it in 2 stages Lock pump Torque it to 35 NM Unlock pump Torque to 110 Atleast that's what I renember from manual. Look for service manual srsly. It was 5 years or more since I did this

[@valcic1993]

@@pwilkutowski i see on net 15nm and unlock pump then 110nm. Ok i try that thanks.

[@patrykzurawka7995]

Witam. Zdemontowałem pompę krok po kroku tak jak na twoim filmiku i okazało się że nie ma klina na wałku i nw co teraz robić pomocy

[@pwilkutowski]

Bez paniki tam NIE ma klina. Sam byłem tym zaskoczony (w rysunkach jest pokazany), ale w tym modelu tego klina *NIE* ma. Zębatka siedzi na samym 'stożku', także nie przejmuj się tym i działaj dalej

[@Staniol1920]

Witam jak ustawić wałek rozrzadu w gmp patrząc przez korek wlewu oleju? Dzieki

[@pwilkutowski]

Witam Szukaj takiego wystającego dzióbka na wałku - jak będziesz kręcił wałem to w końcu się pokaże i teraz uwaga ten dzióbek musi być do góry i !W OSI! cylindrów Czyli nie pionowo do góry tak jak ty widzisz tylko do góry - równolegle z osią cylindrów (a te są pochylone w m47) Jak ustawisz ten dzióbek do góry i w OSI cylindrów, wtedy wkładasz blokadę do wału przy rozruszniku, powinna kliknąć i wejść w koło zamachowe Jak robiłem u siebie ustawiłem dokładnie w pion - w efekcie pompa na stole probierczym została ustawiona źle (za duże wyprzedzenie zapłonu) i miałem sporo zabawy z ustawieniem złym początkiem tłoczenia

[@Staniol1920]

Ok dzięki za pomoc mam już pompę po regeneracji więc na dniach zabieram się za wymianę. Pozdrawiam

[@pwilkutowski]

Powodzenia Btw skombinuj sobie kabel oraz DIS jezeli jeszcze nie masz

[@ledianhalili3805]

Hi could you help me out please. I have one of this bmw I've got problems with axeleration the car starts God but after axelerate over 3000 rpm switch of WY does this? Could that be the fuel tank pump that doesn't work good.

[@ledianhalili3805]

No error message in computer board

[@pwilkutowski]

@@ledianhalili3805 It completely dies on you ? Like you shut of ignition ?

[@ledianhalili3805]

No not like that it seems like missing fuel and than goes dead.

[@ledianhalili3805]

@@pwilkutowski the car starts good and work well up to 2000 rpm if you keep constant axeleration the problem is when I axelerate he start to work like missing fuel.

[@pwilkutowski]

@@ledianhalili3805 Ok there can be couple of reasons for this, i would start by chceking first the REAR fuel pump the one that is in the tank, and the fuel filters . You may be starving the VP pump of fuel on high rpm. But first VERY important, try test driving it with the Fuel cap taken off and see if it will replicate the issue- you may have the tank venting clogged and it can't pull fuel due to vacum in the tank. so - test with cap off, if replicable pull rear fuel pump and chcek fuel filter and chcek lines if pinched / clogged

[@justin1519]

Hey dude, thx a lot for the video. It’s awesome. I bought an e46 320d from 2000 with fuelpump problems. The guy who sold me the car sad, that he took the pump out fixed it and installed it again. He tested the pump after and it worked but the result sad that the angle of the pump is around 40 degree misaligned. When he maybe did not adjust the engine position is it possible that I only have to set the engine in right position? Maybe you can help me before I pull out the whole pump after he did a couple times.

[@pwilkutowski]

ok its been along time since i sold that bmw so my memory may be abit blurry, bit ill try first it is possible to diagnose this without pulling the pump. Its quite likley he miss alliegned it. From waht i renember you aline the motor using the cam shaft / looking through the oil cap.

[@rafparr94]

Bardzo podoba mi się twój poradnik, mam pytanie czy dobrze zrozumiałem najpierw trzeba poluzować wałek pompy, później spwrotem dokręcić z siłą 30NM i dopiero potem ustawić GMP i zablokować pompę ? Dlaczego od razu nie można zablokować pompy i ustawić GMP ? I dopiero odkręcić nakrętkę walka pompy

[@pwilkutowski]

Podejrzewam iż odkręcając nakrętkę która nie została poluzowana uszkodził byś zablokowaną pompę. Po prostu blokada nie będzie w stanie utrzymać tej siły jeżeli nakrętka nie została wstępnie poluzowana na 'nie zablokowanej' pompie

[@rafparr94]

@@pwilkutowski a podczas montażu dokręcamy na blokadach ? Jak to przebiega ? Właśnie jestem w trakcie wyjmowania. Trochę ciasno wokół pompy. Podstawa filtra oleju nie ułatwia dostępu. Jeszcze zamówiłem ściągacz pompy i przysłali nie ten.

[@pwilkutowski]

@@rafparr94 kurde sory nie widziałem komentarza Dla potomności, blokada ma małą wyrzymałość także lekko przyłapać (30nm bodajze), zdjąć blokadę. Finalne dokręcanie (110nM bodajze) na zdjętej blokadzie

[@Mario535iA]

Dear Przemyslaw, thank you very much for the helpfull video, I think I watched it hundrets of times. I use a E46 320d from 10/1999 as a second car with currently 325.000km. In mid of february it just shutt off on the Autobahn and since then its not starting any more. The only error code a have is something related with the glow plug relais. I changed the relais, but its still the same, car is cranking, but not starting. So I was assuming, I have a broken VP44, because of the typical symptoms (Cranking, not starting ect.) The pump in the tank is ok, its delivering petrol the the engine an the VP 44. Because the repair of the VP44 is very expensive here in Germany I decided to buy a second car with broken Turbo. So i bought a 320d from 05/2001 and I was able to drive it home, it was smoking a little bit, but the engine itself and the VP44 was working perfectly. According your video and the BMW manual I was able to pull the pump out of the donator car and install it into my car. Unfortunetely my car is still not starting. I installed it with the correct position and we matched the donator pump to my car with INPA. The only error code I currently have is still the glow plug relais and the cooling fan, wich is currently not installed. I have the feeling that air in the system could be the problem. Is there a special way for bleeding the system? Do you hava any idea or tip what I could check? I'm working nearly two months on this shi* and its starting to be frustrating. Thank you very much in advance, Mario

[@pwilkutowski]

Ok so im assuming: - The pump is placed in properly with the static injection angle set as the service manual says (with timing instrument). - The VP44 pump was bled from air and has fuel in the housing (service manual describes the procedure,, you connect vacuum pomp to vp44 return line and suck out the air) - Make sure our battery is charged OR you have spare as i killed mine during this So: - Loosen All fuel line nuts on injectors (NOT on the pump, but on top of the engine - on injector) - Crank the engine Fuel will spill through loosen injector nuts - Tighten injector caps Now - 1 person cranks the engine - WHEN cranking, 2nd person loosens 1 of injector for short time (fuel will spill watch your EYES ! ) then Tighten - Stop cranking engine Repeat for remaining 3 injectors, BEST to start with injector nearest Cabin as that senses the actual injection advance. - When Done start cranking again, it may take time but it should start IF still no start - CHECK impa and what is your intended injection advance and Actual injection advance IF it does not mach: - Fuel pump placed in engine incorrectly - Lead injector (the one with cable) - faulty (check coil resistance) This should help, if it has fuel it WILL start

[@Mario535iA]

Thank you so much for your detailed reply. First regarding the timing instrument: I do not have this. But I set both engines on the same position, lock the engines and the pumps as it is says in the instrcutions. Both pumps were on 11 o clock when I pulled them out. So maybe this is already my problem, the pump is not adjusted 100% correctly, maybe 90%. A Bosch guy here in town said to me, this shouldn matter, engine should start with this adjustment as I did, maybe run not perfectly, but it should start. So I will try it again tomorrow as you said. When I open one nuts on the injectors, the fuel should come out with high pressure while cranking, right? Because I already tried this, I was only like leaking... Have a nice evening and best regards.

[@pwilkutowski]

Yes It should splash around quite much, i suggest cranking a bit then opening while cranking for few seconds and then closing The key is to NOT stop cranking while nut is loos so the fuel wont pull in a bubble back into line, it took me a bit of time to get it running so be patient As for the pump setting, - It probably will start but it may be hard especially if your set AFTER the dead point of cylinder, after all the compression ignites the disel so if you inject after the compression - I it may NOT go, check inpa * indicated injection advnace * Desired injection advnace - I'm 100% sure your pump is set incorrectly These pumps have each individually stamped advance level on the housing (a number i.e. 0.53) and you need to set the specific pump, pump to specific engine by exactly that value with the clock device and the tolerance is around 1* deegree so very precise. Well ok it is possible to do it with INPA if your injector no 1 is measuring correctly, its just pain in the as to do it. Can you check tommorow you injection values and post them ? looking at these you can tell if the injection is to late or to soon (to soon should start though) - So clear out air from fuel lines and check injection advance

[@Mario535iA]

Ok, thank you for your explenation. Now I think I understand what the problem is. My original pump has advance level 0,76 The donator pump has advance level 0,89 The difference is 0,13 So even I was very accurat while installing the donator pump, I'm definetly out of tolerance. (0,13) Later I will try to bleed the system according your description, check how the fuel is coming out the fuel lines to the injectors and check what is adjustable via INPA. But long story short, in the end I need the adjustment clock tool, I think there is no other way. There is only one thing I do not really understand in the BMW manuel how to adjust the pump while its installed in the car: How is it possible to disconnect the pump from the gear while the pump is fixed with the four screws? The speciel BMW tool and the big screw will push against the pump...I do not really understand this. Thank you and best regards, Mario

[@pwilkutowski]

Mario535iA it is possible to Do It withot out the clock tool just with impa And without removing The Pump Basically you loosen the nub without taking the sprocket out Lock The Pump and move the crank One Way Or Another I am not in front of my PC but I will describe what I remember during the evening time

[@dix-neuf3548]

Hey, I know the video is quite old now but where can I find the instructions you have on the video. Thank you. Greetings from France

[@pwilkutowski]

hmm you mean the service manual? it was online i you need to search for 'TIS bmw service' manual online

[@dix-neuf3548]

Thanks, I found the TIS Manual online, looks like the same you have on the video. I now need the 2 special tools and I’ll start the job Thank you for your help

[@MrMusicformylive]

Thanks a lot for the video mate! Im going to Change it as well! But i have a few questions! You type About that the first cilinder needs to be in top position, but what is the first cilinder en how are you sure that it is in the top position? And if i have done that, i Could switch the pump with another one without to do something else with the position of the motor? Greetz from Belgium

[@pwilkutowski]

No problem hope it helps. As for the questions: - The first cylinder needs to be in top position I actually show that in the video, if you look through the oil filler cap inside the engine, the first cylinder cam shaft will have no 'notch' or a 'point' that needs to point up with cylinder axis. To understand this better get a flash light and look in there and then turn the motor with a wrench by the crank shaft. At some point you will see a 'mark pointing up. So get that mark pointing up AND the fly wheel lock pin 'LOCKED' in the fly wheel. this will assure you have cylinder 1 in top dead position - And if i have done that, i Could switch the pump with another one without to do something else Actually no, problem is all pumps have a 'advancement' degree stamped on them so you will need to fine tune the pump using the clock meter. OR you can go the long route and use IMPA to chcek how much you are off the mark. Its a pain in the ass to do it this way as one needs to bolt it back up and unbolt it to make corrections but its possible. Also someone in the comments said that pumps may be VIN locked, but i cannot confirm nor dis-confirm this

[@MrMusicformylive]

Przemysław Wilkutowski Thanks for the reply! The first part i understand and found a lot of how to video’s About! But the second part About the fine tuning of the pump i dont understand! Can you explain it one more time? And What is ‘VIN’ locked? Thanks in advance mate!

[@pwilkutowski]

​@@MrMusicformylive Used pump from other car may not work with yours due to VIN number imprinted in pump software, but i cannot confirm its a guess as for the fine tuning... this is a long discussion If you get the car started with wrong pump angle you CAN set this up without clock dial. its just hard to do as you need to start the car, make a test in INPA or DIS to check the maximum and minimum pump advance. Then unscrew the pump sprocket and adjust accordingly in such a way that you required angle is set. Then test again if pump can achieve minimum and maximum advancement. I did it that way as my clock dial was 'china special' and did not gave correct readings So i had to get the pump set using Inpa

[@alind2107]

Thanks for the video mate, How did the story ended for the pump? Managed to fix it? I got the same sympthoms the 1st cold start is kindof long (my M47 engine spins a few times before cranking and starting).

[@pwilkutowski]

Well The seals were fixed, and the pump piston replaced - I put it back in the car, running like a champ now :) BTW - do check your fuel tank pump for pressure and fuel revers flow when off, its especially worth if you plan on getting the VP44 done with new piston.

[@ricardoanjos23]

Can you explain it a little bit more? I got an E46 320D 136hp with 220kkm and sooner or later im gonna get this problem. I always use diesel with the most additives and everytime the fuel tank is 1/4 I fill it up.

[@alind2107]

Yes you will definetly have problems, because nothing prevents mechanical parts from aging and failing one day. Reverse flow issue: there's a regulating valve (embedded in the pump) that keeps a constant pressure between the LP and the HP compression stages. When dirt (too old/low quality fuel filter) or rust (low quality diesel mixed with water) gets on this valve you are screwed! It goes like this: because the pump starvs on a regular basis, the pumps computer (PCU) overloads the TCV electronic drive and eventually kills it (google for VP44 mosfet transistor). Driving with more than 5 liters is indeed recomended because water, beeing heavier than diesel, tends to stay at the bottom of the tank. You can put both, the mother and the father of the additives at the same time but you cant prevent rubber and metal from aging sooner or later. Depending on your country's diesel regulations, you should add a injection cleaner every ~20 KKm. Please note that "super strong max power" additives are agressive and, in time, may damage the rubber sealings all along the fuel circuit: from tank to the tip of the injectors. My car has 300KKm / 20 years. It started to have this problem after using some sort of biodiesel. Maybe that biodiesel was made of sh|t leading to this sh|tty cold start issue.

[@pwilkutowski]

​@@alind2107 I agree with all you wrote - this is really good comment I did not check the fuel tank pump (i should do this) Low pressure on the Fuel tank line is murderous for this pumps. Fun fact i saw somewhere a cummins diesel engine video where a guy plugged in a pressure gauge to the fuel line and on WOT it basically drooped to 0

[@alind2107]

@@pwilkutowski The aftermath of the operation: Mount the filter box for the passenger compartment along with filters and covers before closing the hood lid, otherwise if it rains, rain will poor directly into the 3rd and the 4th cylinder through the air intakes (hood lid -> engine) => rust and corrosion on valves, pistons, cylinders, injectors and a dead cylinderhead if you crank the engine without spinning it by hand a few times before (to slowly remove the rain water). You were very lucky: My pump's sprocket slipped while driving the car (even if it was torqued correctly) => it's seized to the pumps axle with the wrong injection angle. Trying to remove it resulted in destroying the threading on the sprocket => I took the engine apart and I'll try to weld the extractor to the sprocket. Update: You cant weld anything on the sprocket because it's cast iron alloy (welding on cast iron requires too high pre-heat temperatures 800+°C). So I made holes on the sprocket to fit 2 long screws to use them as a puller. Update 2: Dismantled the engine (cylinder head included), shredded the sprocket (gailing between the sprocket & axle), and finally removed the pump. After dismantling and analysis: my pump died because mechanically it had reached the end of life. The inner feed pump was having the pallets jammed, the upper and lower feed pump's housing had deep friction traces. Bought one from ebay, packed the engine back. Evething is working like a charm ever since (2 month ago / 3000Km).

[@CORSA617]

Do you maybe have Manual to do timing from the bottom Crank up die diesel pump aswell as cams

[@CORSA617]

Haha i Baught a new car already..

[@pwilkutowski]

Sorry man... idk why but your comment did not appear in the in box... hope you solved the issue

[@andreigss6400]

hi. I managed to get car started but timing is bit wrong. will get diss install tonight. on my pump I can see some marks like 0.84 and 14.1 if you can explain a bit about will be great or just send some link. Many Thanks

[@pwilkutowski]

Ok so if you are running M47 136 hp version then the pump is on the right side looking at the car (left side if you are behind the wheel) That number 0.84 is the advancement of the pump you need to set, and you need a clock counter to do that (the special tool) OR you can get DIS and use that to set the advancement - its a bit pain staking but possible I'm assuming you don't have the special timing tool right ? If no, first connect DIS and display the desired injection angle and actual angle. These two numbers should be the same - but in your case they will differ. now dependent if your timing is advanced to much or retracted to much you will need to: - loosen the sprocket on the pump, - LOCK the pump by the said screw num 1 on page 790 - Advance or retract your timing belt bu small amount - UNLOCK your pump - Tighten the sprocket Then you start your car and check how much you are missing the timing and repeat until you get it spot on. Once you do get the numbers to match you will need to run DIS test procedure to see IF the pump is able to achive full range of advancement and retract of the injection I dont remember where it is in DIS but basically it sets the RPM's to 3K and runs the pump full advance and full retract (-4/+14 i think). If that test passes your done if it fails then repeat the procedure until you hit the spot. This is why you need the tool as the 0.84 gives you the exact value you need to set the pump to - but without the clock tool you cant read that (Note tolerance of pump is 0.1 mm so hard to nail it by chance). NOTE DO NOT FORGET TO UNLOCK YOUR PUMP - i'm not responsible for any damage

[@andreigss6400]

Przemysław Wilkutowski Hi. Finally just managed get Did running. Looks like pump angle is out to 18.1 :( now I have to adjust the pump manualy. Do you know which way? Clock wise or unticlock wise? Thank you

[@pwilkutowski]

Sorry didn't notice the comment, late reply so you probably got it already. But for the record in this case advanced so you need to push the shaft clockwise OR the pump counter clockwise

[@danieldumbrava1300]

Hello, can you give me a key code for the injection pump extractor

[@pwilkutowski]

I dont rally have it if your asking about the tool it was years ago.

[@danieldumbrava1300]

Ok,thank you for answer me.

[@stigsund522]

Was it a half moon on the pump axel? Its a space on the axel for a half moon.

[@pwilkutowski]

Essentially yes - its hard for me to describe this currently but its a 'half' circle slot for a 'teeth' like 'key' that engages between the sprocket and the pump shaft.. Thing is i don't recall now if i had this 'key' or not, but the indent is on the pump axel / shaft

[@stigsund522]

@@pwilkutowski its a slot for a halv ring on the fuel pump axel. But it was no half moon on mine so i wondered if you remeber that ypu had it on yours. Mayby mine fell off . Do you remember how the fuel pump axel was when you took it off? The half moon on mine was heading down against the register. So if there was a half moon mayby it fell off and down in the register

[@pwilkutowski]

i don't think i had it... the indent was there but i had no key. Although if you check DIS / workshop manuals - the half moon IS present on the schematics. Yet i had none As for the position on the indent - did you plac the cylinder 1 in dead - top position ? i think it should indicate to 'upper left' (essentially to the cyl 1 High pressure fuel line)

[@maiorciprian]

@@pwilkutowski the pump shaft has a key slot (the half moon you mention) but the respective pump pinion driving the pump (the one you pressed the shaft out of and locked with the special tool) has no provision for fitting a slot; this is because a key locked pump would only work with the original engine it was mounted to from the factory; if you were to replace the pump with a different one and simply lock it where the previous one was it would not be properly timed for that engine; I think the Cummins engines using a similar Bosch VP pump do in fact have a slotted key locked pinion but only for the older mechanically controlled pumps; the newer 24 valve engines are keyless aswell

[@phildem414]

Tank you for this vidéo! What a journey ! Any news? What was your symptoms?

[@pwilkutowski]

just fuel leak form one of seals nothing else.... Im putting it up for sale as goten a geneis coupe with some body damage (220hp)

[@anthonykaiser974]

If the first 24 valve Cummis 5.9 L is any indication, if the VP44 fails, your lift pump probably caused it.

[@pwilkutowski]

in my case it was just a seal leak but since i had it out already just did the full restoration. But i do admit worth checking the low pressure pump

[@_LuisMiguel_MBenz]

Sabes la referencia OEM de la bomba ??

[@pwilkutowski]

English ?

[@_LuisMiguel_MBenz]

@@pwilkutowski Español?

[@andreigss6400]

any one know how to set timing on new v44 pump e46 2.0d without old pump in hand? Thank you

[@pwilkutowski]

Now i asume the pump new out of the box is set to its starting point - if nto you will need a speciallystic machine to do it (not possible as DIY) So Im assuming you are reffering to seting up the static angle - and I actually described that in the comments. Basically you need to do the folowing: - read from the pump the advancmet / dellay angle (its on the body somewhere) - mount the pump in place with the sprocket and tighten - Mount the angle mesuring tool for VP44 pump - Turn the engine manually and set 1st cylinter in top most point: Now depending on the tool read out you will need to loosen the pump sprocket and then sligtley move the chan back or forward - depending if your read out is bellow or above the value marked on the pump. Once moved you tighten it back and cank it amnually one more looking at the gage - after 1 tunr and 1 cyl in dead position the read out should be exactly waht out have writen on the pump it self - the tolerance is about 0.1mm so its qute precise I also used DIS to check - i asembled it all and started the car then diss showed me the Needed angle and the desired angle - these should match up perfectly And you need to make a test if the pump can achive maximal desired angle (i think it 14 degree at 3k rpms but im not SURE now)

[@andreigss6400]

+Przemysław Wilkutowski hi. sorry to confusion but pump is secondhand.... any chance you can send me link for VP44 angle tool. as all similar tools on eBay is for different types of fuel pump . so far I understand that tool going on the back of the pump where is intake fuel line is but on VP44 pump only has X4 hight pressure outake lines and some electric sensor on the middle. Any idea? Thanks for helping.

[@pwilkutowski]

Actually in VP 44 the tool will need to go in the SIDE of the pump. I should have made a video about this but didn't have the time. First check this link and read cerfully: workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_series_e46/320d_m47_tour/2_repair_instructions/13__fuel_system_(m47)/51__inj.pump_regulator_mixt.regulator/1_ra__removing_and_installing_replacing_injection_pump_(m47)/ You can see the screw on page 790 - marked with number 1, this is where you place the 13 5 200 and 00 2 510 tool's The one that goes in the back is something else and if i remember correctly it shouldn't be used

[@aliraqil3adhim31]

Przemysław Wilkutowski please Make a video! Im struggling with this for months now! Appreciate your good work

[@pwilkutowski]

Hmm i should have record that but it took whole day and dint have the camera ;/ Ping me if you are still having problems

[@mattttttjcf]

hei. super wideo ! Ile potrzebuje Nm do zakrecenia pompy spowrotem. mysle tutaj o tej glownej srubie pomiedzy pompa a rozrzad.

[@pwilkutowski]

Na końcowe dokręcanie ? Nie jestem pewien w tej chwili , ale wg tego: workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_series_e46/320d_m47_tour/2_repair_instructions/13__fuel_system_(m47)/51__inj.pump_regulator_mixt.regulator/1_ra__removing_and_installing_replacing_injection_pump_(m47)/page_794/ Technical Data 13 52 2AZ = Chain wheel on injection pump (VP44) with unblocked injection pump drive shaft, gripped via crankshaft central bolt Tightening Torque = 110 Nm Aczkolwiek sam sprawdź jeszcze w internecie - nie odpowiadam za szkody :)

[@AleArek]

Czesc czy ja dobrze zrozumialem nie da sie wymienic pompy jednej na inna bez jakichs adaptacji. Kurcze bo wlasnie okazyjnie kupilem.

[@pwilkutowski]

Wymienić się da, ale: 1.) Musisz ustawić początek wtrysku, inaczej będzie chodzić jak traktor o ile w ogóle zapali - Jeżeli zapali to da się ustawić początek wtrysku samą impą bez czujnika zegarowego, ale proces jest masakręcyjnie upierdliwy. Trochę metoda na desperata (jako ze miałem kijowy chiński czujnik to tak ustawiałem) 2.) ktoś tu pisał o przekładce innej pomp z 1 auta do drugiego - ponoć trzeba programować pod DDE ale nie mogę tego potwierdzić niestety

[@kuwaitman]

Wow its not as easy as i thought .. May i ask what was the symptoms of your car?

[@pwilkutowski]

Actually it ran ok, full power, a bit longer morning start (and i still have this issue probably low pressure line fault) The reason i removed it was a diesel leak on one of the o-rings - and while having it out i just sent it to change the pump piston. I have to say after 400 K it is worn out so good i changed it - but as said car ran fine, only the leak prompted me to pull it out. If you want to take it out just remember one thing make SURE to set the engine in 1 cyl top dead point, and properly LOCK the pump. I already put it back in but due to my dual mass fly wheel not having original marking i had to waste a day to set up the static injection angle as i could not set the dead point correctly. Now works like a charm.

[@kuwaitman]

i was thinking to buy a 2003 BMW 320D that was rattling and making white smoke. and after some research it seems that the high pressure injection pump have an issue, after i saw that video i skipped that car. do you advice to for this model in general?

[@pwilkutowski]

2003 is a completely different type of a pump The 136 hp pre-lift is a VP44 pump that's the 'old' style diesel The post lift (i.e. 2003 150hp 320d) is common rail version completely different thing If its common rail and making a white smoke i would say injectors area leaking or as you said the fuel pressure is low on the rail but that can be diagnosed form DIS. Well honestly if i would buy one again i would go for 3 liter version - i suggest to think how long you want to keep the car as diesel can rack up repair costs quick. It may be better to actually get a petrol version in low yearly mileage / short ownership time

[@maciejwojciechowski2107]

Też mam problem z dłuższym porannym rozruchem. Czy udało Ci się to naprawić?

[@remigiuszoklap402]

Powiesz gdzie naprawiałeś pompe i czy działa ?

[@pwilkutowski]

U gładysza w krk, śmigała jak ta gupia - nie miałem żadnych problemów z autem

[@cbdu22]

Hej , masz gdzies filmik z montazu? Pozdr

[@pwilkutowski]

Niestety nie, nie nagrywałem a szkoda trochę bo jest tam pare trików

[@cbdu22]

@@pwilkutowski na przykład? Oprócz blokad nie przychodzi mi nic do głowy.. Dziękuję za odpowiedź

[@crixuscrixus-uy5sc]

@@cbdu22 filmik super, dzieki niemu zdemontowalem swoja pompe bez problemu. Podepne sie pod temat montażu, może napiszesz w kilku słowach czy jest cos bardzo ważnego podczas montażu tej pompy? bo rozumiem ze wszystko w odwrotnej kolejności powinno byc. pozdrawiam.

[@hylandermaxi465]

Możesz polecić jakiś sprawdzony warsztat,w którym zrobią mi czynność,którą pokazałeś na filmiku oraz zrobią regenerację pompy i sterownika,nie za miliony!?🤔

[@pwilkutowski]

Niestety nie, nieczesto trafi się warsztat który zrobi rzetelnie A sensownie cenowo. Nawet w znanych większych warsztatach robia pracownicy na czas więc z rzetelnością bywa różnie. Np sprzęgło i dumase zmieniał warsztat po 70 k km sprzęgło slizga dwumas tłucze i nie wiem czy nie wsadzili regenrowanego za cenę nowego

[@hylandermaxi465]

Jest jakaś szansa na kontakt mejlowy z Tobą w sprawie demontażu tej pompy.😁

[@moatzel8018]

thanx

[@pwilkutowski]

No problem - hope it helped :)

[@rudydnb]

Can you make picture off that manuall

[@pwilkutowski]

Its online, i believe this is the one i used: workshop-manuals.com/bmw/

[@pawel198804]

@@pwilkutowski nie wiem czy coś się zmieniło na tej stronie czy ja jestem jakiś ułomny ale nie potrafię znaleźć tego manuala, mógłbyś bezpośrednim linkiem się podzielić? ;)

[@pwilkutowski]

@@pawel198804 Wiesz co - coś sie pozmieniało na tym, sam nie moge trafić rozdziału o pompie strona jest mocno napakowana reklamami jezeli masz add blocker to nie działa za bardzo. to co moge poradzić to poszukaj kompletnego TIS na sieci i zainstaluj na VM jakimś

[@7aj7]

Kiedy więcej filmików o e46? Naprawy itp ? :)

[@pwilkutowski]

Szczerze - mam już inne auto (genesis cupe BK1 2.0) BMW nadal posiadam aczkolwiek jest wystawiona na sprzedaż i czeka na nowego właściciela. Zapewne wstawię coś z Genesisem aczkolwiek nie mam pojęcia kiedy będzie czas cokolwiek nakręcić

[@7aj7]

Przemysław Wilkutowski a tak z ciekawości za jaka kwotę?

[@pwilkutowski]

6-7 k aczkolwiek teraz jest na warsztacie, koło pasowe się rozkleiło ;/ Nówka była kupiona markowa i wytrzymało rok czasu, dosłownie 5 dni przed końcem gwarancji także na szczęście zdążyłem na gwarancje - teraz czeka na rozpatrzenie. Szlag człowieka trafia bo przejeździło 1 rok niecały a niby Daiko także wyższa półka ;/

[@bogdanmoca3428]

Man.... 😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣U dont know what u doing 😂😂 the pump has a lateral screw to lock the pump axle🤣🤣😂🥴

[@pwilkutowski]

I disagree, i got it up and running with no problems. As per the manual there was a screw on the side to lock the pup shaft. also do take into note english is not my first language so its easy to say something incorrectly meaning completely other thing

[@okeyjokey981]

Fix my bmw please :))