E66 Air Sanders on Body Filler... which is BETTER? 1956 Chevy Bel Air Restoration

[@circledhomestead4358]

Way to go Bill! Take your time and do it right the first time! Words of wisdom from a old body man! “It will be mint!”

[@RestoringChristine1956]

That's one of the lessons: PATIENCE. I've mentally committed several months to doing just body fill and sanding and won't paint it until it's RIGHT.

[@randyhoepker5528]

Definitely a good move to use a 5 hp/60 gallon compressor. I have same size compressor for my home shop. The air tools will save a lot of time and effort. I have an air file and a couple of DAs/orbital sander. I use Dura blocks when I have most of the filler flat. Then I use skim of filler over the glass. I also use short strand fiberglass filler on weld seams and where I have issues with oil canning. It stiffens things up and water proofs great.

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I've had a lot of viewers mention the fiberglass strand filler, but I've never run across it. I would have liked to try that on some of the oil-canning areas, because it's so easy to just make the problem worse!

[@barroosa]

After watching the last video I almost ordered you a straight line air sander. I couldn't fathom you doing the whole thing by hand. By the way, I've finished the frame work on my 56. I added the Art Morrison X-Frame stiffener and had to replace the rear crossmember. In the end I am within 1/16" of square! Suspension parts are coming in daily and I hope to be able to start assembling them soon. Hope to have a rolling chassis shortly. Not sure if you need additional content, but, would love to offer some pics/video and you could do an episode of subscriber's projects..... Just a thought. Keep up the great work, Bill. It is appreciated!

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Wow! That sounds awesome! When Christine rolls down the road with that old chassis technology, it shakes and rattles! And I always knew I was going to battle with the air tools. I just wanted to get that first one out there for comparison, and apparently to score a lot of sympathy! LOL!

[@MagaRickn]

Glad that Quincy kept up, I bought one just like yours! And it appears there is hope for us old guys......air tools! ;)

[@MagaRickn]

Also, I am going to try to work on my own site for my 56. Not going to be as extensive or informative as yours, just want a record of my work. My question is, how do you find the right 'music' for your site??

[@RestoringChristine1956]

It was a champ. I can't complain at all. It's actually pretty quiet. It does take time to raise the tank from the tripping pressure of maybe 110 psi to 145 or 150, where it stops. But I drove that board as long and continuously as I wanted and it didn't get outrun. I'd recommend it!

[@sheet-son]

Yes indeed. Power tools are awesome 👌. Great work Bill.

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Got me a 25% off anything coupon to Harbor Freight, and there's another power tool somewhere out there with my name on it!

[@waygonner]

Great video, Bill! Thanks for showing the air block. I’ll be picking one up!

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Almost the best hundred bucks that I've spent at Harbor Freight. It's probably second only to the $50 that I spent on the grinder!

[@bradreeves7534]

Bill one thing I like from Harbour Freight is the Spectrum disposable paint cups. Food for thought. Brad

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Shhhh... I bought the system and plan on doing an unboxing later on!

[@dougscriver7726]

Good stuff

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Thanks!

[@gustavhurtig5591]

Great job and great video :) Get some foam piping insulation for bodywoking the wheel flares :) works super :)

[@RestoringChristine1956]

One of my bodyshop friends says that he uses the black foam that comes in box packaging. I'm guessing that's similar to the noodle material but maybe thicker?

[@gustavhurtig5591]

Maybe :) also heard that yoga blocks works spectacular if you cut them to size :)

[@davidbrown-55]

Nice work. Hope the gaps are fine after paint build up. Love the vids. Thanks

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I've still got to work those with a little more detail. On the Cutlass I literally had to sculpt and carve one because of damage and it's holding up, so FINGERS CROSSED!

[@makepeace2850]

Good job👍

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@pete22440]

Just to let you know I am doing the exact same thing you are doing. you have been a great help.

[@RestoringChristine1956]

That's awesome! I've got a number of subscribers that are doing the same, so be sure to check in on the comment section of each video. We've got a lot of us all battling the same demons! Stay tuned and keep us posted on your project!

[@immanutt4442]

same thing only different ...

[@bradreeves7534]

If you buy a lot of paper for your long board or air file amazon or tcp global has nice sized rolls psa sticky back from 40 to 1000 grit in the dura block store. Under 20 bucks a roll good quality. Something to take a look at. Keep up the good work Bill.

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I'll have to look those up! I saw that Harbor Freight also has it, but I'm not sold on their abrasives. I've bought their 5" DA discs in the past and they seem to be dull right out of the pack.

[@bradreeves7534]

@@RestoringChristine1956 dura gold premium has nice ones for the da also. Get those from Amazon too. 25 to a box.

[@short7608]

I first use my air long board....I knock it down then finish with my manual long board....dont forget to oil the air tools....a right angle grinder with some 2 inch wheels work good in small places....food for thought....

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Good points! I made use of my disc grinder yesterday at the recess around the tail light.

[@sizzle073]

It’s looking great Bill, keep up the dedication! Watching you work those fender wheel openings, would it benefit you to get one of those teardrop foam backing pad for those tight curves? Or maybe even a pool noodle cut to length for places like the tail pan and such? Keep up the great work, and as always I look forward to your next video!

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I have a DuraBlock round shape that I use for tight curve edges, but there's always some little nook that you need to get creative with to find the right way to sand it. What drives me nuts is when I'm trying to shape a sharp curvy edge and I build it with filler only to oversand it, losing the profile I was looking for!

[@kidjeff4304]

you making miss that body shop smell man!

[@RestoringChristine1956]

My spousal unit came out just as I finished making a pass and she was surprised I wasn't floating 6 feet in the air!

[@classiccarrebuilds2771]

Air tools are awesome, especially when your getting a little older, ask me how i know 😂😂😂

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Believe me, my shoulders were FEELING it after that last episode.

[@superdeleon]

Nice!!! Do you ever use guide coat?

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I did for some of the later stages. I didn't introduce it into the method until I got past where I felt like my eye and hand could still see what was going on. I used it when I got to the more finer sanding.

[@joewolf4483]

The trick with the mudhog is to go at a slow and even pass ... in the same cris-cross pattern as if you were block .... not pressing hard but controlling angles .... it takes some practice ...I always try to get 1st layer laid as even as I can .... hog off to get a basic shape ... 36-40 grit ... then next coat long board ... air or by hand 80 grit .... then cream coat and block with 80-100 ... then prime ...again watch Sylvestercustoms for real good tips ..... looks like your metalwork was in the ball park so far ....now get back at it ....

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I think I made better use of it yesterday (Episode 67). Just light passes to make that first cut, but not deep enough to get beneath the target. I think it's a good replacement for the cheese grater.

[@richardchretien7412]

I don’t know if this will help. I spray a dust coat of black. This will show your low spots when sanding. I put the filler only on the low spots.

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Yes, I'll use a guide coat on the next level of sanding. Right now I'm only cut to 80 grit. I'm also considering some sort of "polyester primer" that the supplier suggested. It's supposed to be like bondo in a spray form. We'll see!

[@thomassenemounnarath3278]

Hook it way better than sticknit by tue way. 3m is costly, but the results are great

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I've never had a hook pad for a board sander, but I believe what you're saying!

[@thomassenemounnarath3278]

Mud over the molding holes on the qtr and door???

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I did, and ended up drilling them out later on by spotting from the backside.

[@ezelk1337]

Great Job. How many .8 gallons of filker do you see yourself buying? Keep up the good work.

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Probably one more "not-quite a gallon" of the primary filler and another of the feather fill. Glad you like it!

[@oacumulador]

Use a big metal flexible ruler to spread evenly the filler before it hardened. Look about it. You see.

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Check out my 12" sheetrock taping knife that I use in Episode 67!

[@rongamble9884]

There ok for roughing things in but last needs to be long flat blocks

[@RestoringChristine1956]

The last steps that I took in leveling it out was to use a 16" Durablock with 360 grit. Then just before I painted it (Episode 107), I hit it with a DA and 600 grit on an interface pad.

[@thomassenemounnarath3278]

Right tools for the right job. Blocking is tiresome period. I do it all day pretty much at the body shop.

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I did all of the sanding on the last restoration by hand, and NEVER AGAIN! LOL!

[@shanebruce1566]

I love your channel and your inspiring videos! This channel needs "Promo sm"!!

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I've got a few subscribers that have said as much, but I'm just keeping it humble. You never know. Maybe one day!