E65 Body Fill & Feather Skim Coat for Super Flat Results! 1956 Chevy Bel Air Restoration

[@lesliesmith2586]

You need to put Christine up on blocks, make it a little easier. Great job, lot of work.

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Not a bad idea!

[@lesliesmith2586]

@@RestoringChristine1956 Lucky’s garage did a video on making cribbing to set your car on. Raises the car but keeps it on the car’s suspension.

[@kenwebb2991]

Bodywork at last! Another excellent installment, man. Also, you gave an epic comment that resonates with me: “This door was put on in 1956, and has earned the right to be on the car.” Thanks for the patience and education.

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I am so glad that someone appreciated my soap box moment! LOL!

[@elkgroveflorin5223]

Amen to the "soul" of Christine. Very true, and your approach, relative to retaining the original pieces adds to her story. Keep on truckin'.

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I'm sentimental like that. It's a curse!

[@richardchretien7412]

I spent the day doing body work on my 55 Ford. I feel for you. Your doing a great job. I enjoy the process on the Chevy.

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Cool, thanks!

[@jpowers667]

I think it looks great, Thanks for sharing

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@sizzle073]

It’s looking pretty good Bill! The only two cent I have would be, the more metal manipulation, the less filler work. The Army took alot of life out of my shoulders, so I try to do less sanding lol. I still have to take alot of breaks with hammer dolly work, but it’s easier on the joints. Keep up the great work and as always, looking forward to your next video!

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I've watched a ton of those "paintless dent removal" videos and I just can't seem to do what they do no matter how hard I try. I did stretch the seam weld on this door with a hammer and dolly that fixed warping and oil-canning. Unfortunately, I sacrificed the footage for the sake of keeping the video from being too long. I'll have to work the driver's side a LOT more than what I have so far for the very reasons you're pointing out.

[@kidjeff4304]

great show Bill!

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Thanks, Jeff!

[@MagaRickn]

I remember when I was younger and had the stamina to do all that sanding. No more, unfortunately. Glad to see you using a respirator! Part of my problem is no air, from not taking care of my lungs when younger. I will have to pay someone to do the body filler for me, but my son and I are doing the metal work together. I really look forward to your videos! :)

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I meant to include a little note about the dust masks that I like to use, which is an N95 made by 3M that has an exhaust valve on it. There is no comparison to the little mouth and nose coverings. These things WORK and don't make you uncomfortable. Please keep me posted on your progress as you go along!

[@MagaRickn]

@@RestoringChristine1956 My son brought some N95's over, but I have breathing problems already, Covid finished off my lungs I think. I get a little claustrophobic with a mask, but my son got me a real nice expensive paint mask for when I start doing some primer work. :)

[@bradreeves7534]

Have you thought of a air file for those really tough areas like the door? It is nice watching someone else work. Your story about your dad reminded me of mine. He was a carpenter too. I know those smells. Like when he came home . Sawdust and cigarettes.

[@RestoringChristine1956]

This is the #1 suggestion from all the comments and is definitely going to be used in the future, no doubt!

[@jack002tuber]

@@RestoringChristine1956 Future Bill likes this post. Power sander to the rescue!

[@mazeurbanski]

she looking good keep it up 👍

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Thanks!

[@circledhomestead4358]

Keep dig you will get it!

[@RestoringChristine1956]

It's just a LOT of sweat equity!

[@circledhomestead4358]

Well worth the Effort Bill!

[@donchoate13]

One thing for certain a person that’s lazy could never cut it. Because u r exactly right it’s a TON of hard dirty nasty work. You definitely aren’t scared of hard work. You’re doing a fine job.

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Thanks! My arms and shoulders couldn't take much more of that. I'm definitely busting out the air tools for the next round!

[@oacumulador]

Advice. See about using a "ruler" a big one. It's a great method.

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I've used a wide sheetrock taping knife before and will have to remember to try it again on the quarter panel!

[@monadking2761]

Good ol Chad he talks about the Ocean Floor. Your right that becomes alot of filler. It takes a long time to do it right even though most of the filler ends up on the floor. I always worry about the expansion of plastic filler on metal because of expansion ratio of metal and plastic are different. It is something to always think about. I not at that stage yet but I'm hoping to get the metal as straight as possible before I spread the filler. Your is coming along nicely!

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I've never had that problem with expansion and contraction, and as a side note about adhesion, towards the end, when I worked on the door edge by the quarter panel, I tapped out that edge to bring the alignment closer and the nearby filler didn't pop off. You might find trouble with adhesion if you sand too early, but once it bonds, it's really tight!

[@bobbygant8649]

I have tried doing bodywork before and it aint fun but im going to do like you and do it all my self.

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I wish my mind would let me pay people to do work for me. It's next to impossible! LOL!

[@bobbygant8649]

@@RestoringChristine1956 oh i know i even have a brother that is great at body work and i let him do it before and he didnt even want to really start on it so i just went and picked it up and said if you want it done do it your self no matter how long and frustrating it is but you know it will be done.

[@johnjason7204]

Bill save yourself alot of back breaking work on your first coat of mud...After putting it on let it begin to tack up, then USE A CHEESE GRADER to knock off all your high points and give you a roughed out shape. The grader is a blade you pull across the mud and it comes out as strings on the blade. You will know if you start too early it will pull too much away. This will save you and energy by using one instead of the long board with the first coat... Been following you from the beginning great job...where's DEUCE??

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Thanks for the tips! I have a cheese grater that I will use on the deeper work, when I'm chasing a shape that I have to build up. On this door, I was skimming and didn't have a lot of depth to hit with the grater. When I do use it, I try to hit it when the filler is a little green before it fully hardens. On the driver's side it will be useful!

[@joewolf4483]

Time to break out that mud hog for the ruff cut .... if you need to flow out a large area you can add a little fiberglass resin to the mud to thin it out .....if you want to watch what I think is the best site for bodywork technique watch Sylvester kustoms ..... he's the most detailed and talks on our level ..... now you only got the rest of the whole car to do.... get busy ......

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I have a few air tools that I plan to use but wanted to get this first one out there with all manual labor to contrast against the power tools in the next go-around. I'm please with it all so far!

[@short7608]

Thanks for another great video....from my experience, I don't like the metal spreaders. The edges dig in to much and it spreads it to thin for me. I have them but prefer the plastic spreaders....im no expert but I have been restoring cars, trucks and bikes for 35 years....so if you have time to answer, why do you like the metal over plastic spreaders....just for my curiosity not a arm chair crotique....Thanks Bill

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I guess it's really not that big of a difference. The metal spreaders work well as long as you don't abuse them. The plastic ones are good for curved surfaces but aren't as good for flat work.

[@torekristoffersen176]

Use an air file for those first hard passes…. Thank me later…. Worth its weight in gold

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Truth is, I do plan on busting out the air tools. I wanted to get one session in doing it by hand for contrast. Thanks for chiming in!

[@bradreeves7534]

Bill have you ever used the soft plastic body spreaders? Any body store even Harbor freight sells them for what you're doing. Tcp global or Amazon.

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I have and they do have their place. I've used both with success. The plastic ones are better for curved surfaces. I need to pick up some new ones.

[@markmoats5702]

I've watched bad Chad and I can't really stand watching his channel he never finished his projects for years maybe. Plus body guys have air boards maybe you should look into one bill it would make the sanding go faster than hand sanding then change to you hand board to do the fine finish work

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I've got a Bondo-Hog 8" DA that is my next trick to test out. I had to get the manual effort out there to contrast against the powered alternatives. Never used one, so we'll see!

[@johnserou6466]

Did you get the filler from Mike and Jerry’s?

[@rickyouthouse9583]

Save your arms good ole Harbor freight has an air file

[@RestoringChristine1956]

I have one and I also plan to pull out the air file. My shoulders can't take too much of that! LOL!