Easy Polaris Sportsman (And Similar) BELT CHANGE

[@kellycarson4717]

Thanks man , I'm not a mechanic at all but I got a 2001 and I'm trying to make it as reliable as possible. I appreciate your terminology and not making it sound and look harder than it really is. The no pants thing was hilarious too.

[@ericinalaska7648]

Thats what its all about. I find with the proper info. Whether its on youtube, from a manual or other. It can all be pretty simple stuff. Hahaha. I forgot all about the pants comment. Glad you found it helpful. And If you haven't already discovered. There are lots of other videos on the channel as well that you may find helpful. Polaris and unrelated. Thanks for watching.

[@robhandling3065]

I just shredded the belt on my Polaris sportsman yesterday, thank you for this great video! I subscribed so hopefully you get that beer.

[@ericinalaska7648]

Awesome! Thank you! Sounds like it helped. Happy riding.

[@barryblessing]

Great videos Eric. Subscribed. Btw, use the "dish towel trick" to roll those belts off/on even easier without the possibility of pinching your fingers.

[@ericinalaska7648]

Great addition thanks. Definitely works. I should have mentioned that in there some where. Maybe 2.0 someday.

[@johnradford3573]

Thanks as this video was very helpful, John Radford

[@ericinalaska7648]

You're welcome! Glad to hear!

[@cerny4444]

Great video, very helpful! Thanks

[@ericinalaska7648]

Glad it was helpful. Thanks.

[@joegeorgia8989]

Great job! Your videos are awesome keep up the great work.

[@ericinalaska7648]

Thanks, will do.

[@JP-tz3lt]

@@ericinalaska7648 hey Eric, seams like you are well educated on these bikes. So I have an 06 500ho that starts and runs. It idles well and runs well for about 20 minutes until it warms up, then idles and runs like crap until I shut it off and it cools down. I've already changed fuel filter, air filter, plug, and ran some Lucas fuel treatment through it. What I've heard might be the problem, is CDI box, $500 or fuel pump, $700 for my bike, have to replace the entire tank according to the dealer. Bike smells like it's running rich, and last time I ran it, took the fuel cap off when it started running bad, and there was a smoke lingering in the tank. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

[@ericinalaska7648]

@@JP-tz3lt Then ........ ??? Is it over heating? Dying? Running rough? Idling rough? Any white smoke exhaust? Any Temp gauge lighting up? Power loss?

[@JP-tz3lt]

@@ericinalaska7648 so I was pulling a brushhog for a few hours in low, and it did spit a little coolant out the overflow once. Besides that, cold it starts, idles and runs great, after heating up, runs rough, idles rough, stalls, and hard start, until I turn it off and it cools, then runs great until hot again. I had it throw the check engine light once, but hasn't since I changed all filters and plug, but that didn't solve my problem. Dealer says 06 was first year for EFI and it is probably the pump, but if the tank is original which I believe it is, less than 200 hours on the bike, I need to replace the entire tank, at $700 the new tank will allow me to replace just the pump in the future. If I replace the tank, and it turns out to be the CDI box, I'll be in it for $1,200. Oh, and it also backfired on me once when running rough. Any ideas? Kind of a crap shoot I guess. Just trying to get it fixed without dumping a ton of money in it. Thanks again for your input.

[@ericinalaska7648]

@@JP-tz3lt My instinct is that maybe it was just running/working a bit hard based on that and it became unhappy. Just with normal use if its fine or seemingly normal I probably wouldn't worry too much but keep a close eye on it. Id also top off the coolant of course. But if it consistently shows signs of overheating. It could be several things. You may have seen the coolant change video I did. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pKPYgH1mmKpoZ9E I babble quite a bit in that one about causes and trouble shooting. Plugged or bent radiator fins, (If your plowing head first through the brush)Air in the lines, temp sensors, fan, thermostat, etc. But if it seems happy without the brush hog. Maybe that's all it is.

[@HOBrian2003]

What made you change the belt? Like I’ve said in your other videos mine is an 01 and it’s on the original belt. Great video, I’m catching up on the ones I missed.

[@ericinalaska7648]

The primary reason was I just picked this machine up. And based on the date on the oil filter. Last having an oil change in 2013. I thought to myself well. Thats probably the easiest maintenance to do so likely this is a pretty old belt based on the maintenance history. And I want to start the year off fresh and ready to go with no easy to address issues that I should have done. All that aside. I didn't really get into the inspection of, or why, you should replace a belt in the video. But looking this one over it showed reasonable wear. One thing you check is the width and in comparison to a new one this one was worn quite a bit. Good enough for an emergency spare, but also reasonably worn enough to consider replacing. There is a tolerance on the width for most belts. Also had some signs of heat damage. Small cracking. I just decided it was getting to be a bit long of a video so I stuck with swapping and braking in. Glad your finding the videos of help. I also have a bunch of unrelated stuff on the channel as well. I saw you subscribed. Thank you. I kind of subject hop around a bit so if I deviate from Polaris topics occasionally Ill always return to it.

[@HOBrian2003]

@@ericinalaska7648 I did the fluids last year, front diff, trans, front hubs, and oil. I think this year will be coolant, brake fluid flush and another oil change. If you can put a video together regarding coolant system drain and fill along with upper and lower hose replacement that would be great!! Lol

[@ericinalaska7648]

@HOBrian2003 See what I can do ..... If and when I attack that.

[@mrchrisknight315]

Better to know you have a good belt then going dead on a trail.

[@stevenfitzherbert8718]

Thats the hard way to do it. Put the bike in gear/ push inner sheave on secondary in and clock wise at the same time/ push belt down in and remove. Use acetone to clean clutch faces. If removing clutches to dis assemble and clean use brake cleaner but always acetone on the sheaves. Wash mold release off new belt with mild soap and water.

[@ericinalaska7648]

Good tip. I usually use rubbing alcohol. And a scotch bright. If warranted. Not in that order. Actually had some dings on the faces I had to smooth out also. Likely from a previous owner getting creative with a tool to open the clutch or trying to pry the belt out or something. I haven't washed the belt ever though. Probably not a bad idea. I haven't really encountered a noticeable release agent or residue on any of the ones Ive installed. Maybe diff from brand to brand. I'll look closer at that on the next one. But makes sense that you'd want to clean that up before install. Thanks for the info.

[@edbarker6215]

Thanks. I am enlightened.

[@ericinalaska7648]

Carry on.

[@michaelbigelow5662]

Awesome thanks. Worked great!!

[@ericinalaska7648]

Good to hear. Appreciate the feedback.

[@charlesthompson8962]

Great video man

[@ericinalaska7648]

Appreciate it. Thanks for the visit. More to come.

[@davebean2886]

Thanks for the link to the paper manual. Is there also an online PDF available?

[@ericinalaska7648]

Every once in a while I stumble upon a thing or two but you'd have to search. In this day and age I would imagine you should be able to find something. I just tend to look for that while doing the home work when necessary. But prefer to have a book handy open/ not screen saving etc next to me when I have dirty hands. Id be curious to hear if you find anything.

[@cruza1289]

Thanks for your thorough videos I followed your complete oil change video today. Just wondering I have a 2001 model sportsman and it crunches every time you try to get it into high or reverse. Doesn’t seem to do it when putting in low. Any ideas what the problem may be ? It is also hard to disengage l. Most times I have to turn engine off. Also have you got a video of pulling the carb apart and cleaning it ? Thanks

[@ericinalaska7648]

I don't think Ive ever had or rode one that didn't crunch a little. Other than ones with manual shift on the handlebar with your finger/thumb. I haven't had a need to mess with any of that as of yet personally. I do know that the linkages are adjustable and you can fine tune a bit. Im not sure if that would solve your issue or not but may be worth a try. I have not made a carb cleaning video s of yet. If I have to dive in on that I certainly will though.

[@cruza1289]

Thanks. Yeah well this is more then a crunch I guess if you push it in really quick sometimes it will go in with a loud crunch or sometimes it will just grind. Also when in gear and at idle the machine drives forwards on its own is it meant to ?

[@ericinalaska7648]

@@cruza1289 Id have to do a little homework to suggest beyond this initial thought but. Did you do a belt change? And if so did this happen before that also? If your belt is/was not the correct belt, too small, it will engage enough to to spin stuff hence the grinding. Your front or primary clutch should be spinning freely, no belt grab, when in neutral. Another cause for belt engagement when in neutral I touched on, I think both of these actually in the video, Is if your alignment of your primary and secondary clutch is out of spec/alignment. Again causing the belt to grab a bit when in neutral and it shouldn't. Those would be my first two suspicions.

[@PrimerCord]

Thanks man I just got a 2019 and the belt is starting to slip. Hey I'm in Kenai, AK if you ever need another riding buddy

[@ericinalaska7648]

Hope the video helps a bit solve your issue. I checked out some of you vids. Were you out at walrus island for work or?

[@richmoore5525]

since you are pretty self sufficient there in AK, I was wondering if you could help me out? I changed the belt and it still has a stutter in it and a loss of applied power. What could be up?

[@ericinalaska7648]

The stutter I'll address. The loss of applied power. Is likely unrelated. It could be a few things. Id need more info though on that and when and what your doing and how its responding. Just in case you weren't aware I'll cover a couple things. Not sure it's your issue but can contribute. And it's been a bit since making that video. But it's important to clean the surfaces the belt rides on. But more important is proper break in. Most belts have instructions with or avail. But off the top of my head it's riding at a consistent speed for a period of time without any aggressive throttling etc. Just steady speed on a tame road or trail. Also Check the belt deflection. Lay a straight edge from pulley to clutch or meaning across the top of the belt and press down on the belt in the middle midway between the two and measure the distance from the straight edge to the belt. And if it's not ok specific to your machine. It may need adjusting. I'll have to look up the proper deflection. Im away at the moment, but let me now if any of that helps or if you've done this and are still having the issue.

[@richmoore5525]

@@ericinalaska7648 appreciate you, gonna be a few days before I can get back at it.

[@ericinalaska7648]

@@richmoore5525 Let me know how it go's.

[@robertperry9919]

Hi I have a 98 Polaris sportsman 500 and the clutch spins even in neutral you lightly touched on it saying it could be a disengagement issue? I’m 16 and learning about everything as I go could you expand on the issue please

[@ericinalaska7648]

The primary (front) clutch will spin anytime its running. Your belt should only grab if you're in gear and giving it throttle which is what engages the clutch and pinches the belt to make it grab. If its grabbing in neutral or in gear without any throttle. Then you may have an alignment issue. Meaning the primary and secondary, Front and back, clutches may be out of alignment. Or less likely. You may have the wrong belt. I hope that helps.

[@maximumredline97]

I got the same wheeler. It grinds going into gear and both pulleys turn as the motor is running. Any advice?

[@ericinalaska7648]

Your primary, The front pulley will spin anytime its running. If your rear or secondary is also spinning . Prior to putting it in gear. Thats likely the source of the grinding. Parts are moving that shouldn't be as your trying to engage the gears. Why is the secondary spinning when it shouldn't be becomes the question. Usually two things. cause that. Improperly fitting belt, too tight /too small. Or improper alignment of your pulley's.( Primary and secondary clutch. ) So If you're confident you have the correct belt. Then Id look into the clutch alignment. Too explain that here would be a bit ambitious. But a good manual can get you through it. I have a link in the video description if you're interested, for a decent one. Im confident you can likely search for a solution on line as well. Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Good Luck. One of these days maybe Ill make a video on that.

[@maximumredline97]

@@ericinalaska7648 seems to me like the primary clutch is stuck engaged. Belt was recently replaced several months ago and was doing fine. Kept getting hung up in gear then now when I try to put it in gear it grinds. When I do get it in gear it wants to pull off

[@ericinalaska7648]

@@maximumredline97 If you watch the video. I believe in this one. Its been a while. You'll see when I start it, the primary/front clutch is spinning. Its in neutral or park. And it shouldn't be grabbing your belt at this point. When you say pull off meaning it wants to go? OR belt pulls/comes off? Initially I would have asked if the belt was broken in properly but you say it was doing fine so I don't think that's it. What caused you to put a new belt on? Just maintenance or other? If other that may shed some light on it. Or suggest other issues.

[@maximumredline97]

@@ericinalaska7648 yes it wants to drive off.

[@ericinalaska7648]

@@maximumredline97 My instinct is you have an alignment issue. Again of course as long is you have the proper belt.

[@ЗухраКабардокова]

Super video

[@ericinalaska7648]

Glad you found it to be of help.

[@jandeband]

I just reinstalled mine and the pulleys are out of alignment, not sure why 😢

[@ericinalaska7648]

Hmm. How much is or are they out?

[@jandeband]

Maybe a quarter inch or more, the way it looks is the main clutch is tapered shaft and , no way to misalign it, the secondary clutch, i put spacers behind it, i thought went there, (but maybe not) i appreciate any help, iv had this thing torn apart a couple of months, i have a 99 500 and this 400, starter on both went out same day, 500 was easy, the 400 two stroke, has been a nightmare

[@ericinalaska7648]

@@jandeband I'll help as best I can. It's a bit hard though not having seen the before and after. The best thing I can suggest to anyone aside from take pics/video with your phone as you go, is a manual for the specific make model year. There reasonably priced and can be invaluable. Here is a link to one or will at least get you where you need to be to browse. amzn.to/3rFQW6p You may find one that covers both. Happy to help where I can. Just kind of hard, or limiting at that level without eyes on it.

[@andrewkuiper718]

So question for you concerning belt. I have a 2000 sportsman's 500 and I have problems with water getting into the belt cover. I have replaced the outer seal after having to replace the belt but it still gets water in. Any recommendations for the inside seal om the engine?

[@ericinalaska7648]

Well the obvious first thing that I would imagine you're aware of is making sure that the seal on the cover is in good shape and properly aligned and not out of alignment and pinching causing improper sealing. Thats the one most known about and explored. There is a less known about seal, as you mentioned, and more often neglected due to lack of familiarity. Thats the inner cover seal. When you take the outer cover off. The back plate or rear cover that remains. There is a seal behind your primary or driven clutch. A bit of a effort to replace compared to the outer cover seal/gasket. Primary has to come off and inner cover retaining bolts etc. Also sealed with RTV. I would of course evaluate all readily accessible seals and surfaces. Making sure they're all sealing properly. Or any other pos damage of course. Not really much else it could be Id think. I realize your aware of some of this by your question but I try to answer for those who may not be as well. Hope that helps.

[@andrewkuiper718]

@@ericinalaska7648 Alrighty I'll have to look into that again. I need to start tearing mine apart anyway to fix the pull start, solenoid, and figure out where the leak is. I saw you had a really nice video on the pull start too so I wanted to say I really appreciate the good videos you have and the good engagement you have with your audience. Thanks again!

[@ericinalaska7648]

@@andrewkuiper718 Well thank you sir. I appreciate it. More to come.

[@calebtoft5551]

Are you going to do a video on the coolant system? have a problem on my 2001 sportsman were i am always have to add coolant.

[@ericinalaska7648]

I don't have an immediate plan to, but Im sure eventually it'll happen. Without knowing your specifics, I'll toss this out there. I had a 2002? I think it was. And I kept leaning toward the thermostat. Id overheat and coolant would be steaming out the the cap of my overflow tank. Before I dug in too deep. I cleaned out my radiator real good. Meaning the fins. The outside of it. If I was home I would have used a hose and poked the crud out etc. But I was in the middle of no where. So I drove it into a river facing the current so the radiator or at least like the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 was in and facing the passing water. I rubbed and pulled out crud. For a while, while leaving it running. Until I felt it was noticeably cleaner. I was good to go again after that. The area I was in put me in some pretty muddy churned up grass, roots, mud, etc. And would plug up the radiator and as you can imagine. Reduce the effectiveness of the cooling. But that's all it was that time. So explore those two things and go from there. Let me know. And thanks for subscribing. I may deviate from the Polaris topics occasionally but will always return.

[@calebtoft5551]

@@ericinalaska7648 Thanks for the reply. Found your channel this week as I am going to have to replace my front seals on my 2001 sportsman. Great videos, and I notice I need to get my self a Service manual.

[@ericinalaska7648]

@@calebtoft5551 Yep. It would be money well spent. Some people grasp stuff better seeing and listening. Some reading. It sure is a good tool to have a manual though.

[@ericinalaska7648]

Hey Caleb. Your wish is my command. I recently posted a new video on the cooling system. If that's still haunting you. Take a look. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pKPYgH1mmKpoZ9E

[@calebtoft5551]

@@ericinalaska7648 Awesome thanks for doing that. Ill have to dig into mine this summer after watching the video.

[@burkester1045]

Whats the gates part number on that belt?

[@ericinalaska7648]

This is the link to the one I use. amzn.to/3nCz0bD on Amazon. Assuming you have the same machine. And you certainly dont have to use that one but it will get you where you need to be as well as show similar.

[@jacobkea9091]

is your sportsman equipped with esb? mine is and alot of people say you need a belt like yours instead of one of with the smooth back, I had a belt brake and it sounded like it was hitting the shroud before it broke and i wonder if its because the previous owner installed the wrong belt

[@jacobkea9091]

also awesome video, very informative

[@jacobkea9091]

ebs*

[@ericinalaska7648]

It is equipped with EBS. I don't think your belt failure was due to it being a smooth backed belt. The noise you were hearing was likely the belt failing. Probably breaking apart and loose or shredding parts/pcs. hitting until it finally broke. Deterioration from over heating is a common cause. Or as you suggested, maybe, it was the wrong belt. If so, perhaps sloppy. But you can check the number on it if it's not destroyed to solve that mystery. If you look at the video you should be able to see I actually removed a smooth backed belt. And based on the maintenance history of this machine prior to my acquiring it. Id bet that belt was really old. And I believe it was a belt made for and by Polaris of the proper part number. So as long as you have the correct part number or cross matched if using another brand. You should be fine. Smooth or not. Id have to look into it a bit, but my recollection is that the ones ribbed on both sides. Tend to be categorized as heavy duty? All belts however are vulnerable to over heating. (Or smoking them.) regardless. Causing deterioration. Hour glassing. Which can also account for some noise if bad enough. As well as time/shelf life. Proper break in is helpful for longevity. But we all know there can be times that don't permit. But if your swapping one out at home as part of maintenance. I recommend it. I have been using the Gates belts for a while now with no complaints. There are many to choose from. I was lured by price initially. And have been using them since.

[@jacobkea9091]

@@ericinalaska7648 Thanks, I believe I ordered the same belt you installed on the video, Ill let you know if it works out, hopefully it isnt a clutch misalignment issue

[@jacobkea9091]

hey man i had a quick question. I just replaced the carb and fuel pump on my 98 sportsman 500, and it seems im still not getting fuel? Any idea on what it could be?

[@jacobkea9091]

Also it starts when i spray starter fluid in the carb so I dont think there is any killswitch in the way

[@ericinalaska7648]

Hmmm. Sooo many possibilities. But just from what you've told me my first thought is as you said it may be starving for fuel or have too lean a mixture. Many reasons for this. Ill list them below for you. Im sure you've thought of of checked most of these off the list already but just to be complete. This is the trouble shooting list from the Service manual. Symptoms. Hard start or no start. Bog, backfire, popping through intake/exhaust, hesitation, detonation,low power,spark plug erosion,engine runs hot, surging,high idle, idle speed erratic. -No fuel in tank. -Restricted tank vent or routed improperly. -Fuel line or fuel valve restricted. -Fuel filter plugged. -Carb vent lines restricted. -Plugged or restricted inlet needle and seat screen or inlet passage.Cloggeg jets or passages. -Float stockholding inlet needle closed or inlet needle stuck. -Float level too low. -Fuel pump inoperative. -Air leak at impulse line. -Restricted impulse line. kinked or pinched. -Intake air leak. (Throttle shaft, intake ducts,airbox or air cleaner cover. -Ruptured vacuum slide diaphragm, vacuum slide stuck closed or sticky. -Improper spring. -Jet needle position incorrect. -Incorrect pilot screw adjustment. Beyond that it would really be hard to pin point with out having hands on.

[@jacobkea9091]

@@ericinalaska7648 thanks so much man, I'll be sure to check all of those, my guess is a bad vaccume line because a couple of my fuel lines definitely has cracks. After I go through all that I'll move on to the electrical side of things, the guy I got it from had quite a few dogs who did a number on the wiring, also he lost the keys for it so I had to rig it up so I could bypass the ignition and just jump it off, wish me luck and thanks again for the help!

[@ericinalaska7648]

@@jacobkea9091 Anytime. Good luck.

[@Fred270298]

Hey man, Did you find out? same problem :/

[@thomasimmesberger2644]

Eric, just wondering do you have a part number or a site I can go to for my 2002 sportsman 500 ho to get a fuel filter ? Buy the way grate video keep um coming buddy.

[@ericinalaska7648]

amzn.to/3hPm5Qo This is a link to the one I used on my 2002. If its not the one you want or need Im confident it will offer other options on the page of many price points. Hope that helps. And thanks for the kind words.

[@fishingtwins3406]

Do you have to have a Ebs clutch to run the Ebs belt?

[@ericinalaska7648]

Its my understanding that if you have EBS you should only use an EBS belt. But if you don't have EBS either belt will do. I just always got the one recommended for what ever machine I was working on and it wasn't a consideration or concern. Always best to get the belt recommended Id say.