EATON Surgetrap CHSPT2SURGE Whole House Surge Protector Suppressor TEARDOWN what’s Inside?

Internal EATON Surgetrap CHSPT2SURGE Whole House Surge Protector.
We will be taking a close up look at the internals of this EATON Surge Suppressor, as well as going over some of the components and a very basic explanation of it's operation.
I'd HIGHLY Recommend a whole house surge protector, ESPECIALLY if you drive an Electric Vehicle. Most charging equipment has a built in basic version internally, but why not double protection?
Average retail is around $95-$100 at the Big Box Stores. As of this video, it is available here for $55: amzn.to/3gq6lm0
Or get the Ultra Version Here: amzn.to/3Gyck2T
Units are also STACKABLE. Meaning, if you want additional protection, you can install MORE THAN ONE.
Associated Additional Materials:
How a Varistor Works: electronics.howstuffworks.com...
Varistor Data Sheet (I could not find exact match, this one is very close to what is in the device): www.newark.com/bourns/mov-20d...
#SurgeTrap #eatonSurgeTrap #WholeHouseSurgeProtector
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[@speedboxx]

So I bought new MOVs thinking I'd upgrade mine for more capacity, then I just discovered mine is a CHSPT2MICRO. Which I thought has the same spec as your CHSPT2SURGE based on the brochure (they appear identical). When I took it apart, mine had all 12 MOVs fully populated and with beefier MOVs labelled Sincera T25D241K. Kind of surprised that each MOV would have the same spec as the suggested 20D241K which have a smaller diameter and look much tinier.

[@111000100101001]

Very helpful. I have a pile of MOVs so might get the base model and populate it to the max :)

[@pcar5]

The Ultra model has 12 MOVs.

[@KmanAuto]

Of course ABSOLUTELY MASSIVE markup for an additional $2 in components....

[@harrydoherty8299]

this what i used with a 50 amp breaker . bought a trim plate to make a neat install.

[@bnasty267]

Thanks for the teardown with clear images. This model looks like it has 4 MOVs: L1-N, L2-N, L1-G, and L2-G. From a review on AMZN, I see the upgraded 'ULTRA' model of this adds 2 more MOVs in parallel for each of the connections. So, instead of 4, there are 12 MOVs, as is clearly visible from the unpopulated solder pads. It's interesting that all the pads seem to support the 3-lead MOVs (the ones with the thermal fuse), even though only the top most ones (populated here) connect that fuse tap to the LED. I guess it's cheaper to buy those slightly more expensive MOVs as a single bulk order rather than have 2 types on the board. I think I'll try building my own. Those MOVs are less than a $1 in low quantities, and one could wire the whole thing up in a nice steel junction box which would protect against fire and contain the bits if a surge exploded the MOVs. Probably could build a better clone for ~$20, which is substantial considering the 12 MOV ULTRA version is currently going for a ludicrous $190 at the bix box stores.

[@vincemajestyk9497]

It's just as 'minimal' as I thought it was. These are the most 'popular' consumer models through an aggressive marketing campaign. I think the 'Ultra' has an insane $75,000 equipment warranty or some crazy amount that you just knew they would NEVER pay out on or you'll never collect. Their warranty states : "failure due to direct lighting strikes and temporary over-voltage are not covered". My advice would be to get a commercial model which has many more MOV's or the better designed SPD's which use a combination of MOV's and GDT's to effect a longer life by preserving the MOV's. A GDT is a Gas Discharge Tube filled with a plasma or metal halide gas.

[@KmanAuto]

I personally have a capacitor bank setup. I keep it off though unless we are having power issues or a storm on the way/in progress. Technically, it's a KVAR, which, for residential metering does absolutely nothing (Which is why I keep it off when not needed for above reasons, as it costs rather than saves money). It's big enough where it absorbs larger (not insane) surges smoothing the spikes out.

[@speedboxx]

What's some good commercial models? I'm guessing these Eaton units are still better than the cheapo surge bars that most people use.

[@vincemajestyk9497]

@@speedboxx The one I got was an Erico EPD 120/240 TDFL I got new from a surplus supplier on ebay. It's a commercial unit made in Australia. There's others on there too if you look around you can get a deal. I paid under $80, may have been cheaper.

[@BrianIrwin]

5% is just the accuracy. There will be variation in any electrical component, so a 5% 100 Ohm resistor means it will be between 95 and 105 Ohms. You pay more for higher accuracy and also for a higher watt rating.

[@KmanAuto]

Thank You.

[@markg7963]

Has anybody tried putting new mov’s into these after they stoop lighting up as ok?

[@2tellthetruth937]

looks like a red(2) * red(2) * orange(10^3) Resistor = 22K ohms, not 77 ohms. Gold band = 5% tolerance. Typically the 120VAC drop would go through the series resistor, the diode, and LED so that the LED has maybe a 2-3V drop across it for the amount of current limited by the resistor. The diode is in there because AC has both positive and negative voltages which the LED wont like. Thus it allows only positive or only negative AC voltage depending on how the circuit is connected. MOV's are basically for short periods/duty cycles of high frequency voltage clamping.

[@speedboxx]

Thanks for the video! I wonder if it may be a good idea to replace the MOV's every 5-10 years as preventative maintenance. These things are super cheap, so surprising how the entire units sells for $150 these days. Also, on the PCB board there looks to be enough room for ~6 additional MOVs. I wonder if it would be a good idea to solder on additional MOVs to increase the Joule rating, and also the lifespan.

[@vincemajestyk9497]

Most of them have lights that indicate if they're at EOL. I wouldn't change them as a matter of routine. Those little breaker ones will 'pop' fairly easily if you get a big spike.

[@KmanAuto]

I don't think it is necessary, however, given what the PCB looks like, it appears it was designed for more MOV's. Personally, I think eventually, for a winter project, I'll not only add MORE MOV's to the PCB, but those additional MOV's, I'll get lower voltage ones (meaning, they will divert at a lower "trip" voltage if that makes sense). Then it will be a multi-tier protection. I'd rather it trip early on some lower voltage MOV's, and save my equipment, than too late. If a strike or surge is going to fry every wire in the house, nothing I install will stop that anyways, insurance will be rebuilding my home at that point (happened to a very rich business acquaintance, lightning went in he roof and out the side of his mansion. Physically, little damage, however, fried every wire in every wall, so insurance gave him 3million to tear it down and rebuild as it was cheaper than ripping every wall open to replace and repair the wiring. ) Personally, I also have a KVAR device, but not for power-factor correction. As residential metering doesn't charge or factor in for power factor and a KVAR unit can actually INCREASE your bill if not done properly (unless your home is giving an insanely low PF), but the capacitor bank serves as an "absorption" device. I have a TINY capacitor on all the time to help smooth out mild spikes, without increasing my electric bill at all. If I know we have a major storm coming, I flip the circuit breaker to a MUCH larger KVAR unit with a nice bank of 4x100 mf capacitors. It does a good job of absorbing those spikes that occur when a storm hits. Saved my old home in my opinion in 2006. Bad storm, our transformer blew. That house was in the city with homes very close together. All 4 of my other neighbors on the same transformer had all major appliances burn out, my home, which was also closest to the transformer, had zero issues. The breaker on the KVAR did trip, likely took as much of a surge as it could. I did replace the caps even though they tested fine. Used a 1/4 watt resistor to discharge the caps. Caps are cheap. 🙂

[@speedboxx]

@@KmanAuto Exactly my thoughts. With this Eaton surge protector, I believe there were multiple tiers with different ratings. It's pretty clear from the board that the higher tier ones are just the same unit but with more MOVS and a different label. These MOVs go for $1 each so you can easily more than double the capacity for cheap. With regards to using MOVs of a smaller clamping voltage rating, the only thing I don't know would be how it effects the indicator LEDs that show when it's end of life.

[@KmanAuto]

@@speedboxx My thought on that would be, even if the lower clamping voltage MOV's go out first, and don't trip the LED's, if the LED's aren't tripped, that would mean the higher clamping voltage ones are still functional. As such, it would still be within it's original specs and functionality. That, and I have a hard time not "touching" stuff, so Likely I'd be opening the unit and checking it on a regular basis, maybe Spring and Fall. Like the smoke alarm schedule.

[@speedboxx]

@@KmanAuto Cool! Let us know what spec MOV you plan to use as a lower clamping voltage. I haven't read up on what's involved with sizing these.

[@dougfox5312]

I wish you gave install details. I’m trying to understand where in the box the 50 amp breaker should go? I understand we’re not supposed to extend the wires.

[@KmanAuto]

For me, the only place I could put it was at the bottom of the box. I do believe I had to extend one of the wires to the ground bar. extending is fine as long as you use properly gaged wire. ideally, having it as close to the main breaker as possible is the best option, however it is not 100% important. The surge suppressor is still the closest thing to ground in the box, so no matter what that is the shortest path to ground. If something is big enough to get past the surge suppressor, the surge for pressure isn’t going to stop that surge anyways.

[@harrydoherty8299]

i installed mine on the side of the panel . i moved all circuit breakers under the main down 2 slots making room for the 50 amp 2 pole breaker. the red and black wires go straight to the breaker only about 9 inches away as instructed in the directions. the green and white go to the ground/ common bus .

[@gui577b]

Thanks for this, I was about to buy one. Completely insane that they're charging $55-100 for these. If you read the warranty and the protection guarantee it's a complete joke. They won't pay you a single red cent even if it does legitimately fail.

[@KmanAuto]

For the price, it's an extra bit of protection. Heck, my homeowners insurance gave me a (small) discount for having one, so in a couple years it's paid for anyways by that discount, so why not.

[@williamvaughan1218]

​@@KmanAuto I was wondering about the insurance discount myself.

[@KmanAuto]

@@williamvaughan1218 Mine knocked off about $20/year

[@bnasty267]

Agreed on the overpricing, and they seem to have spiked up recently. I installed the SquareD HEPD80 on my panel about a year ago, and I think I got it for ~$80, but I see it is now closer to $130. That's insane considering it's (at best) 9-12 MOVs that cost 50 cents each and a plastic housing. The BOM for these things is probably less than $10 for the manufacturer. A 10-15X markup is outrageous. I think I'll build my own when this one dies: it's about as simple a circuit as one can build. Put it in a metal junction box and it will be safer than these plastic and epoxy units.

[@martinephilippe4242]

How to install would have be great 😌

[@KmanAuto]

$0, did it myself in about 10 minute.

[@here-i-am2316]

Hi can you explain the benefits of using the 50 A breaker vs the 15 A ?

[@KmanAuto]

50 amp breaker will allow it to shunt more power to ground before tripping, than a 15 amp breaker will. 15 amp may trip sooner, before that surge is shunted fully.

[@here-i-am2316]

Thank You@@KmanAuto

[@bbk7755]

Hello sir could you please send me the pcb diagram and electronic components for me.?

[@KmanAuto]

Sorry, I do not have a PCB Diagram. Please view the video.