EEVblog

Dave reviews and tears down the $300 Quick 861DW hot air rework station. How much better is it than the $70 Atten 858D+ ?
Louis Rossmann's video:
• Quick 861DW vs Hakko F...
www.rossmanngroup.com/quick861dw
kit.com/EEVblog/soldering-equ...
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[@rossmanngroup]

Upon rewatching, by far the best part of this video is the enthusiasm Dave shows at removing the Vanta. I love it!!

[@EEVblog]

So enthusiastic it seems, I lost my balls.

[@MrPnew1]

It's OK Dave, Louis is always misplacing his balls :)

[@VileVermin]

@@EEVblog balls... oh - balls!!! kzbin.info/www/bejne/n6jVq35mo71kmMk

[@VileVermin]

couple days ago i removed south bridge from PC motherboard just using cheap HAG but with help of my kitchen electric stove as pre-heater - it was really simple but mobo now screwed like propeller blade :) :) :) ru.aliexpress.com/item/220V-240V-450W-450-Degree-LCD-Adjustable-Electronic-Heat-Hot-Air-Gun-Desoldering-Soldering-Station-IC/32272327737.html

[@deceitive3338]

Hey Louis and Dave, I own a rework/solder station and have the same issue with flickering (fluorescent) lights in my workshop. I did some investigating with a power meter and in my case at least it is caused by the logic board modulating the heating element on/off in short pulses once it is up to temperature to keep it at temp. Taking the heater off the stand also causes my lights to dim, placing it back in the holder fixes that issue immediately (while the fan is still cooling it down). The entire workshop is on one breaker, separating the lighting from the outlets at the breaker panel should solve the issue.

[@austinstrunk]

Louis and Dave working together in the same room on cam would blow up youtube

[@Frankhe78]

Dave and Louis joining in a rant would be interesting to see :)

[@Bigrignohio]

Bigclivedotcom will show up to keep them in line. Well, probably will make it worse! :)

[@gandalf87264]

Actually, I think it would be quite comical. Have you ever seen Louis and Jessa before? Bloody hilarious.

[@arcrad]

As long as he is bringing the bubbly wine I think all will be well!

[@zivizivi2328]

yea right they would do all talk no work like always... these dudes everyone look up to need to learn better soldering skills they are both horrible with soldering iron imho.

[@Liamtronix]

Louis Rossmann is what you'd call a straight shooter. Super detailed repair videos and the occasional random life lessons. Definitely worth subscribing.

[@CoolKoon]

Life lessons learned from repairing branded pricey crap, yeah :D

[@CoolKoon]

Misty Moo Not everybody likes to beat around the bush (even when it's completely unnecessary, useless and even counterproductive) all their lives you know....

[@ollieb9875]

Misty Moo I like him. I don't think he'd be my friend in a hurry but I respect what he does and how he gets things across.

[@ollieb9875]

zivizivi he calls bullshit when he sees it, shame you all can't deal with it. Then again, you're hardly worth it.

[@zivizivi2328]

Ollie B why do you care so much if we are not worth. too much drama and nothing real to learn or gain from his content. just a guy loves to listen to his own voice. and the real bullshit is trying to sell crap from youtube.

[@kieferonline]

Thumbs up for association with Mr. Rossman. Having Dave and Louis in a combined video-something would get invented on the spot. Two guys I respect.

[@livelongandprosper70]

sycophant

[@mikeselectricstuff]

Really surprised to see a brushless motor in there. How would conducted or radiated noise cause lights to flicker? It's obviously just the current draw when the heater turns on & off

[@JGnLAU8OAWF6]

Exactly! Brushless motors are everywhere now...

[@mrjohhhnnnyyy5797]

mikeselectricstuff Exactly, I have much weaker hot air station which does the same. It uses a TRIAC in leading edge phase fired controller circuit, which is the source of that flicker.

[@IlhanNegis]

yea, 110v sucks

[@madmodders]

Yes, Louis needs to not run that on the same circuit as the lights. When I'm down in some old cellars doing my work with a 2kW hot air gun, the lights flicker like crazy. Old wimpy wiring and long runs from the breaker panel tends to do that to you.

[@gandalf87264]

Induction does strange things :P

[@HopWorksET]

Once again sir you hit on ALL the key points that allow me to justify purchasing a tool like this. So entertaining AND informative. Thank you again Dave! You are just flat out AWESOME!

[@gandalf87264]

Louis' advice: Wait for the chip to dance (move) before you remove it. I made the same mistake until I saw Louis do it. I have learned loads from his content You didn't seem to like the angle of the fan, even though you didn't criticize it. I think I see the method behind the madness of the designers. I think the placing of the fan enables it to suck cold air over the components that get hot before it gets heated and blown out of the nozzle at a PC board. Brilliant ingenuity. I take my hat off to them. It is always a pleasure to watch somebody who knows what he is talking about, and it is a pleasure watching you. Keep it up mate :)

[@betamax80]

It's great to see collaborative youtubing. Well done sir Dave!

[@homersimpson9257]

I bought one on the advise of Louis, really a great product. I was following Dave some years before Louis, i'm glad to see this review on this product from Dave too.

[@vincei4252]

I bought one of these soon after Louis's review. It is indeed very good. Compared to my existing rework station no contest for desoldering large components and BGA's and such there's simply no contest. Also Louis, is a great channel. He's a good guy and for someone who's much older than him I've gotten a few life lessons too. I like his cats too :)

[@MrDoneboy]

Dave and Louis...Two of my favorites!

[@gnagyusa]

Dave and Louis are both awesome. It's nice to see some collaboration between them.

[@ProtoG42]

I've had mine for several months now and it's great!

[@Boffin55]

Pretty sure Louis' issue is that a US circuit is only 15A @ 120V, so 1000W is a pretty good chunk of that. The big disadvantage of 120V and small (14ga / 2sqmm) wire. Not uncommon at all to see lights dip here in North America when a bit load is switched in

[@rossmanngroup]

It could be, but a JBC JT-A at full power causes zero flickering. Maybe the Quick is more powerful, but I don't think it is *that* more powerful. As much as I love my Quick I have to acknowledge that the $1200+ price difference comes from cheaping out on the power supply.

[@ethanpoole3443]

Boffin A typical 120V US circuit may be either 15A (1800W, #14 copper minimum) or 20A (2400W, #12 copper minimum), both are quite common though in very old structures the 15A circuit was much more typical since in the first half of the 20th century a typical household load consisted of lights, a radio, later a TV, and the occasional clothes iron or vacuum and that was about it outside of the kitchen. However, the tendency towards flicker really depends a lot upon where in the AC cycle the heating element is being powered on. I would imagine they are using a random phase triac driver, which means you can be switching on a high powered heating element right at the AC peaks with fair regularity and if your circuit is already loaded down or has a fairly long run back to the mains panel then you can get noticeable flicker, particularly with fluorescent and LED lighting. You might well be able to get away with swapping the random phase triac driver for a zero-crossover driver and resolve the flicker issue so long as long as the temperature regulation loop is not adversely altered.

[@rasz]

>cheaping out on the power supply there is no power supply, heating element is directly switched to the mains

[@allesklarklaus147]

rasz exactly

[@allesklarklaus147]

Boffin Also it is an old NYC piece of shit building, probably just like 3 breakers for the whole place and 16awg wire

[@neilolif]

Hot air was one of my special skills!! Pre-heat bed and hot air gun and I could rework QFD devices, and BGA devices by hand, and I was tagged as the "expert" in my group. It can be a really really TRICKY skill! SOT packages, 0201 SMDs, of course 0402, 0603 and larger got to be a piece of cake.

[@peekpt]

I thought it was going to be yet another noisy aquarium pump hot air gun , but I'm surprised. It whooshes very well

[@electronicsNmore]

That "Quick" unit is very nice. A while back I picked up an 898D unit which I like very much, I stole it for $45.00 shipped.

[@zaprodk]

It's quite common for these stations to "hide" bad temperature regulation and give you a nice, round reading as long as the temp. is inside a small window :)

[@rasz]

its mianzi, aka lying in your face being more polite than bringing bad news, classic chinese

[@ales_xy]

Same with cheap chinese scales. They're good value for the price, but absolutely not in the professional instruments league. I can't imagine that someone would seriously suggest this as equipment in real lab :-)

[@km5405]

I love Louis 's channel, great life lessons and lessons on board level smd repair work all round. ......... also time is money, the quick 861DW will earn back itself in a week if you are a professional.

[@CPD-KD6-3.7]

First off. Shout out to Louis and Dave, both excellent youtubers in their respective categories!

[@gigaherz_]

When I read the title I thought "Quick" was referring to the review itself, and I was thinking "37 minutes isn't a quick review..."

[@blindillusion9522]

Thought the same. "classic Dave, puts the word "quick" in a 30+min video" :D

[@rocketman221projects]

The light flickering is probably from the 1000W heating element being switched on and off. My $40 chinese reflow station does it, as well as my laser printer and laminator.

[@menash54]

what reflow station do you have? do you recommend it for hobbyist? i dont have the 300$ to spend

[@shmehfleh3115]

Man my laser printer does! I can't believe how much current that thing sucks down when it's warming up. I'm surprised it doesn't trip a breaker.

[@rocketman221projects]

I have one of the youyue 858D reflow stations. It works fine for hobby use. Just be sure to check that the ground and the fuse is wired correctly if you get one.

[@GeorgeGeorge-xj2bc]

Check the optocoupler that drives the triac of AC heating element to see if is a zero cross type rather than a random phase that placed by mistake and causes the room light flickering.

[@thegameboyboy3444]

Hi great video. Switching between Celsius and Fahrenheit can be achieved by pressing both the ch2 and ch3 buttons for 3 seconds. (Sound can be toggled on/off by pressing ch1 and ch3 for 3 seconds)

[@mitchcm]

This doesn't work on my 881D

[@thegameboyboy3444]

@@mitchcm that's a bummer! I've never used the 881d. I only have the 861d model. (Also I wrote my original comment wrong; it is ch1 and ch2 to toggle sound)

[@chasingcapsaicin]

Not even watched it yet, but thank you Louis been waiting for this since he mentioned he sent you one. I have been trying to get a filter right to kill the feedback that messes with the lights since I got mine.

[@microwar]

Than you for sending Louis your multimeter. To bad he only used it 2 times on camera.

[@rossmanngroup]

Hey, at least 3! :p I switched over to the B&K for the ability to see it on screen :)

[@MisterIndeciso]

Which one: the 121GW or the other one? 'Cause the 121GW has Bluetooth Data Logging, it would be a good substitute of the B&K

[@theirishscion]

I doubt it would integrate with Louis' Open Broadcaster software as tidily as his usual DMM does, and Louis is many things but I don't think he's got the patience to program a connector :-)

[@theirishscion]

PhilfreezeCH with an Open Broadcaster plug-in?

[@GenerationXT]

Good review, would be interesting to see a review on one of Quick's 90W soldering stations.

[@tonyrgnash]

I bought a Quick 861DA about 8 weeks before Louis got his... i'd been deliberating on it for weeks. Glad I made the right choice. Wholly justified by your review too Dave. Odd thing is I get the same light flicker as Louis.. keep up the good work :)

[@hardrocklobsterroll395]

Neat that Louis sent you this

[@fluffyfloof9267]

When you turn the holder around, you can pull the nozzle and have it cached in the cup. What for not having hot metal things rolling all over your bench. ;)

[@stevewalston7089]

Nice fair review Dave. Stand was being used backwards, recessed bin area will catch tip when removed hot.

[@Qban220]

Quick are the choice of Polish professional repair businesses for years now.

[@nombinator]

Quick seems to be well distributed in Poland. I had to buy mine from there to France for around 250€. There was other offers in Europe but not for the beefier 861DW variant.

[@romzget1892]

@@nombinator bst 868 its better than quick 861dw

[@cls9474]

the collab I was waiting for...

[@nrdesign1991]

Finally decided to get one of these, after having it at work for a year. It's a great station and very nice to work with.

[@jllemus]

Probably someone already commented on this, but it seems there are two models, the 861DW and the 861DE. The DW only goes to 120 l/min and the DE is the one that goes up to 200 l/min. So the display is actually indicating the air flow in l/min.

[@gsmbrett3799]

I have one, I thought for a long time about what to buy, but this was the best choice, I worked everywhere Quick 861DW slow heat accuracy scrap!

[@Factory400]

The trick with these is the careful application of heat and not damaging all the surrounding parts. I generally pre-heat the whole board slowly before going for the lift. I also have high temp silicon sheets that I use to mask the target area. It does no good if you damage the PCB or other components. Liquid or gel flux is critical IMHO.

[@krissolshaq4934]

KAPTON TAPE FTW!

[@ethanpoole3443]

Kriss Olshaq I use Kapton tape as well, but I also rather like the idea of using silicone sheets, so I may have to give that a try one of these days.

[@Factory400]

I use piles of Kapton tape as well. The silicon, in many cases, is easier to just flop a strip or donut shaped piece on top.

[@cogliostro841]

I also have this Quick Station. There is nothing in this price range that can compare. Hakko and Weller is almost 3 times the price of the quick. I have mine for almost half an year and I'm still very impressed. Unfortunately mine has a "beeping" noisy motor with high frequency sound -.- but beside of that if you searching a hot air station right now. There is no way around the quick

[@quantumbubbles2106]

I second this - Quick appears to be a truly high-quality manufacturer. My 861DW, btw, doesn't make any beeping or otherwise annoying noises.

[@allegas1]

Yay, Dave! Atten consumes 280w and delivers 28l/m. It is standart blower fan, equipped in most of chinese soldering stations.

[@deadfreightwest5956]

I had to laugh at the "LEAD FREE" stencil.

[@melgross]

I bought an 858D. But I bought it only for heat shrink tubing. I’ve got some good guns, but for smaller wires and such, they’re too big and overkill. Never tried it on surface mount components. It does come with several sizes of nozzles. The temp setback does work. Also, I got it on eBay for a bit over $40, shipped. Seriously, for $40, it’s pretty good. This model is available from a number of different vendors with the same, or similar look, with different names.

[@neiliewheeliebin]

My 858D has held up for 3 years now its not bad for hobbyists i've used it a fair bit with no problems

[@NivagSwerdna]

@23:00 You need some Ceramic Tweezers dude. Nice device. As a hobbyist I'll keep on with my UYUE 8586 but if it stops working the Quick will be on the wish list. Nice video.

[@gjsmo]

400C at full airflow seems a bit excessive but I can't fault the speed, especially for the big FETs. I've used whatever hot air station Sparkfun sells before but this one definitely seems worth the added cost.

[@mahound9]

I have the sparkfun station & use it for repairs. Gets you there, cost me 200 plus COD charges in Canada.

[@sykskysyk]

This one's a forum classic, many many people have been recommending it for a long time.

[@sncat]

Compare Quick 861DW with Best BST-863, and with NT 762E, low price product to one category. Quick 861 DW and Best BST863, inside the same, the parameters are the same, but the price is lower twice at BST 863. Do a comparative review.

[@paziipa]

Louis Rossman is the man! 😍

[@Der_Arathok]

no he is the Ross-man! :D Im gonna jump of a bridge now...

[@paziipa]

AcolyteArathok you deserve one internet

[@Der_Arathok]

uuuh dont know if i want that xD with all the offended people and stuff around xD But thank you anyway! :)

[@ogplayapp]

@ruuhkis......"Rossmann"

[@yagoa]

A really nice hack would be getting cold air if you press temp up and down at the same time

[@irawarnaca8133]

On the wish list for sure.

[@superiorbeing95]

I got the Quick 857DW, so far it's been great.

[@chrisalexthomas]

I came here to see the 858d in action because I just bought one and wanted to know how it would stack up against a professional machine. Thanks for the video. It really helped and I think I can do my amateur stuff with the 858d just fine. I just need to be a bit more patient. Great stuff!

[@jonaspeters5213]

I use one everyday, love it

[@manuel-zx1wn]

i just bought the Atten 858D+ for 27 euro.... price-performance unbeatable. for hobby stuff its great;)

[@aneeshprasobhan]

wait what the heck

[@Boz1211111]

All reviews said cheap blower not so good and only for ocasional work, but thats what i needed so i bought it for 50 dolars. Impressive, especially for the price. Now your review is first where i see how capable cheap one is. True its slower, but with so much headroom on the temp i dont bother i will be needing more expensive any time if ever. And one if best parts with my cheap station is it stacks perfectly with my other tools!

[@chinaphonefixteam6300]

QUICK 861DW professional mobile phone repair and repair station, using brushless vortex fan, adjustable air volume, wide range, can be used for a variety of purposes. The system has the function of automatic cooling of air volume, which prolongs the life of heating elements and protects the hot air handle.

[@Daniel-hd7gq]

The 861DW is the 120l/min version! The 861DE can do 200l/min and has 1200 W

[@marekant7776]

I usually give the reworked part a slight poke with tweezers to make sure that it reflowed, then I lift the part.

[@SunnybraeCroft]

Love Louis Rossmann’s videos

[@tHaH4x0r]

The motor may look 'wimpy' but you'd be surprised how much power a small brushless motor can deliver. For a robotics project we used a brushed motor of about 15W to drive a dribbler system to move a ball. This motor was replaced by a tiny brushless motor from maxon motors (i believe it was the EC max 30) which was just 30mm x 62mm, a lot smaller than the original 15W brushed one, yet put out an incredible 60W of power.

[@theirishscion]

This is the actual motor used; www.wonsmart.com/English/Product/0586241350.html It's a torquey little brute, 17,000RPM unloaded speed, 8K full load delivering a max torque of 58 mN-m. Real ball bearings. 3 hall effect sensors, 3 phase. 110-ish watts under full load. Very narrow and light spinning mass for ease of balance and quietness. Excellent choice. Not a cheap motor either,.

[@tHaH4x0r]

True, for quality motors you have to spend big bucks, but its worth it. Next to clearly better performance and being quiet, they last a loooot longer in my experience.

[@greywolf271]

Dave Approves ! That's why I bought one myself.

[@button-puncher]

WOW. I always thought you needed some special rig to remove those big BGA chips. This is so cool. The build quality on the 861 looks really nice. I just decided to get the 957DW+. It looks like the middle between the two models. It has the remote blower, which I like. I'm guessing that you could quiet the blower down with a bellmouth intake and some foam.

[@d0ugk]

I'd guess the flickering lights is from the heating element. When it's cold from being off or cooled down from being in the rest, it's going to surge the element at full power to bring the heat up as quick as possible, then likely PWM the power to the element to maintain heat. I see the same with my cheapo heat gun like the one you have. My entire bench is on an APC 1500va SmartUPS. When the heat gun 1st comes in it nearly maxes out the load the UPS can take for a few seconds, then it levels out to a much lower power draw depending on the temperature set

[@mattdunlop6056]

honestly that temp memory feature on the quick is useful. I have an older cheaper model and switching between desoldering temps and lower temps for just melting stuff or shrink is a pain, many of times have I grabbed mine without thinking just to hit some heat shrink and its set at 400C

[@williamsquires3070]

Yeah, and you can use on heat-shrink tubing as well!! 😍

[@laernulienlaernulienlaernu8953]

It's just like most tools and equipment, the more you use something, the more you can warrant spending on it. I think the cheapi would be adequate for most hobbyists but obviously the one that's 4 times the price is going to be better

[@redsquirrelftw]

I was using a heat gun in my server room to test some temperature alarm points and noticed the lights flickering too, I think it's because these type of devices just modulate on/off instead of just adjusting the voltage to the element.

[@haraldvanarkel4429]

I always use the stand the other way round. That way the nozzles don't fly away but fall in the tray instead.

[@onjofilms]

I've used Aoyue 968 for the last 11 years. Had to replace the soldering iron part of the station, but as for that, it's been a trooper. My only complaint is there is some radio noise around 150Mhz and again at 155Mhz that interferes with my testing of radios. I usually have to program the radios to something else so it doesn't get interference.

[@avejst]

Thanks for sharing 😀👍

[@Bodi2000]

I think if you put a scope on the heater you would see it switches fairly slowly, that causes the lights flickering... just the branch circuit voltage drop due to the heater load. I get lights flickering with a temp controlled heat gun when the lights are on the same breaker. Louis probably has the same thing, needs isolated circuits for lighting vs high power equipment. But, as a renter, doing electrical upgrades is just donating $$$ to the landperson...

[@micksam7]

This right here. I have a different SMC rework station and when it switches the heater on/off it causes heavy voltage drop on the bench circuit, sometimes fast enough to get a nice flicker going on the bench lights. It is far worse on a 110v system with that 1kW load.

[@theirishscion]

micksam7 Bingo. It’s brutal on a normal 110v circuit with any other load on it. It does proper zero-voltage AC chopping (watch Louis’s teardown; they get the scope on it. It switches just like the Hakko or any other high end unit, it’s just much higher current) and basically everything else right, but there’s only so much it can do with weak sauce US mains circuits.

[@PolakeXD]

Definitely very good reflow station. I use it since four months and it is actually very good. Already repaired four Xbox One's and an Galaxy S6 motherboard with it.

[@TheModernVictorian]

when you wiggled one of the wires into the screw terminals, I could see the copper poking from the other side move, might wanna re-crimp that one, take a look.. 13:26

[@acwrench]

I have this one, I love it.

[@xConundrumx]

One correction, airflow on the DW model is only 120 (like it says in the display). The DE model of the 861 series is a 200 L version (and 1200 watts instead of 1000 on the DW). And on the DE the LCD setting goes to 200 (as expected).

[@modorangeorge4991]

861DW has 120l/min, Atten I think only has 24l/min.

[@BetterBiomedChannel]

The Quick TS1200A Solder station is a perfect mate to this hot air station. It's a complete beast @ 120 Watts. I just posted a Quick / Hako comparison video on my channel.

[@rubino7]

Just FYI, this thing is about 150 euro shipped from AliExpress. This is without a sale going on so you could shave off another 10-20 euro.

[@Yousitech]

You can now get an 858d for 35$

[@lmaoroflcopter]

Ditto. Works pretty well for hobbiest level. Been a great addition to my workbench.

[@RejectedManiac]

Chryseus Do you happen to have a link to the CFW? Thanks!

[@jedrula77]

32:11, not You mistake, just use FLUX easy to remove after desolder process and vacuum tweezers to lift big BFA chips. Good to use termo sensor and best way to use preheater set to 100-150 st C. No to fast heat or internal silicon can crack.

[@JoeGaz]

I wouldn’t mind taking that Atten that you fixed Dave (and rewired) to be safe :P!

[@SevenDeMagnus]

Cool both from the epic Quick brand (KSGER also used their hot air SMD workstation system for KSGER's epic solder and desoldering tools:-)

[@nickbolton9435]

Angled nozzles are handy if you’re trying to use a heat gun under magnifying equipment.

[@DavidLightman]

Louis even sent a 240v one!, Nice machine the quick, too bad it is impossible to find in my country

[@andrew_koala2974]

The temperature can be increased closer to 500°C when removing components, as they are in all probability 'Cactus' anyway so the higher temperature becomes irrelevant, and use a higher air volume, so the removal time would be around 12 seconds. Reduce the temperature to no more than 400°C and a lower air volume when soldering in the new components. Of course, having clean solder pads and using the appropriate solder paste. I use AMTECH All in all a fair and enthusiastic review. We have come a long way since the days of TESA and TETIA membership

[@NewShockerGuy]

I just picked this up as a side fun project to learn. I can't seem to desolder smd leds for some reason. Either I'm not getting it hot enough or I am afraid of torching stuff..lol this is my first time and I have mulitple PCB's that are dead and just practice on. I can't seem to get the hang of it yet. I know how to solder normally but totally new to hot air rework stations.

[@ReinForceOne]

@3:25 - thats a shot from Louis towards Jessa from ipadrehab (who ordered these 45° nozzles first but Louis got them b4 her)

[@kissingfrogs]

Hall Effect type thing. I inherited mine without the stand so was unaware they auto switch off when in a stand. Drove me nuts while trying to replace the voice coil on a big woofer. Damn thing kept turning off when ever I brought it near the speaker. Had me stumped for awhile.

[@obe726]

Louis is a legend

[@Stabby666]

It's funny watching dave do a similar job to Louis, but without adding 6 gallons of flux to the board before desoldering :)

[@Satchmoeddie]

The Atten cost me around $39 American. Same experience, but Atten is adequate, and it's good for for heat shrink, and heat polishing acrylic for DIY light pipes.

[@jftechdrones]

Would love to see a review from you of the Edsyn station that Louis just got.

[@Direkin]

I've just got a cheap YiHua rework station. It's good for the basics.

[@Der_Arathok]

9:43 Isnt that sleeving around the wires for heat protection?

[@StreuB1]

Impressive piece

[@AlexTaradov]

Louis's mains just can't handle heater consuming that much, it is not EMI. He needs better wiring.

[@Bigrignohio]

Alex Taradov He leases. Any improvements he loses when he goes.

[@AlexTaradov]

Yes, I know. And he is going to be kicked out of the place at the end of the lease. All I'm saying is don't overthink it, the reason is simple.

[@nombinator]

Is Louis in 220/230 V mains or that ugly 110 V US custom mains voltage ? That could be part of the answer.

[@johnw1385]

@@nombinator lol not sure how the nation that invented the grid has an odd custom voltage relative to later adopters. As for less subjective I seem to recall 50hz is a bitch for motors. Having watched enough LR I'd guess he chose to use recycled soda cans instead of copper wire 😂 220 easier to get a lethal hit from too no? Simple i=e/r

[@ferrumignis]

@@johnw1385 240v means lower current for the same power, less voltage drop for a given conductor size or cheaper conductors for a given voltage drop. Fatalities in modern GFCI protected installations are very rare.

[@corenelius]

My brother in-law used to work at the Adelaide Showgrounds setting up and repairing power distribution points for show rides etc. They commonly referred to using two cable ties to secure flexible leads within an enclosure as 'Carnie Proofing'. Apparently the show-ride operators, or 'Carnies', had a reputation of being a little rougher than most with flexible power leads, often driving off with things still connected. Two cable ties = 'Carnie Proof'

[@acertech]

This is not the 200l version. It is the 861DW 120l version and 861DE are the 200l that I own. :-)

[@ales_xy]

Type-K thermocouple can go from -270 °C to +1260 °C (www.thermocoupleinfo.com/type-k-thermocouple.htm), but it's just the metal wires, not the plastic insulation. So, at higher temperatures you can get the end of the insulation slightly burned, but the thermocouple will be OK and accurate.

[@ArumesYT]

Funny how a review of an expensive hot air station actually shows that the cheap Atten is more than adequate for my needs. Added that one to my wishlist. 🙂

[@bobweiram6321]

It's even funnier you can't tell the difference. There's a reason it's a big seller.

[@ArumesYT]

@@bobweiram6321 Funny how you assume I can't tell the difference with absolutely nothing to back up that assumption. If your soldering is as bad as your reading, you'd better stay away from electronics completely.

[@CPD-KD6-3.7]

1:23 top right hand corner in the pop-up “screwing machine” lol

[@pepedombo3819]

Just use any old heat-bed (kettle, whatever) and you will do everything with cheap hotair/soldering station. Temp. driver is a must, with some stm8 at least, ntc and relay, still cheap and effective. The other way is to preheat. Remember, both tools aren't complicated, at least chinese fan-fun won't blow your elements as you might expect from quick set too high with its flow.

[@neilolif]

Great Video!!