Electrical Systems 102 - Practical Multimeter Tests and Fault Finding for Your Sailing Projects

[@bybeka1]

The yellow wire seems to be the W wire which provides rpms through the pulses of the alternator, as an alternative reading of the crankshaft rpms sensor

[@BoatingwiththeBaileys]

Hi, I already have a w terminal that’s attached to my RPM gauge and also that same terminal is connected to my DIY engine monitor. I’ve since seen some photos where is connected to the alternator output terminal. Possibly a basic voltage sensor?

[@bybeka1]

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys ufff, if not the W, no idea then... 😅

[@BoatingwiththeBaileys]

😀⛵️👍

[@Coyotehello]

16:35, "Dam you!" LOL I do not think I ever heard you swear in any of your videos. That was funny! But yes, electrical issues that you cannot reproduce are the worst. The loom being that long is definitely a voltage drop point and yes the blue to yellow wire connection is another possible point of failure especially being a friction connector vibrating away when the engine is running. Good on you for correcting those. Very tidy set-up and engine compartment (like the rest of your boat), congratulations. So that adverc is/was kind of and older type of ACR? Can't help you with that alternator yellow wire, sorry. Thanks for an excellent video on trouble shooting DC components. * As a side note, I go the Pi5 running (thanks for the lead on the flat panel, nice unit) on Debian with Open CPN and Canadian charts from O-Chart (an Italian provider). All that was quite an ordeal for some reasons. The big news is that my MacArthur HAT should arrive any day now! The next step is to re-installing this with the Open Plotter image for the Pi5. Test everything and re-install the panel in the boat. Cheers, a.

[@BoatingwiththeBaileys]

Hah - I do try to keep the language in check especially on the videos. Still not sure we’ve solved the Adverc issue just yet. It was sold as battery manager, to try and compensate for losses in the system, especially with split charge setups where you get voltage drop across the diode and also I guess where battery cable runs are long. The manual claims less runtimes to fully charge and I would agree. I guess though over the last 10-15yrs dc to dc has come a long way and that’s probably a better option today. Great news on the Pi and the Hat. I’m really pleased with mine and I’m sure you will be. Let us know how you get on!