Electricians day Consumer unit change. Uncovering poor workmanship !!!

[@Cjrelectrical]

Please read the description in the video . Have a lovely day and be safe.

[@bicolouredprawn]

"This is why I prefer Screwfix." 3 minutes later... "This Screwfix pipe is crap."

[@lukelawless88]

think your no nonsense clear thinkin approach to your jobs is great chris . you dont try and be flashy with vans our tools . love the vids

[@abcxyz820]

You can get a blank that connects to the din rail for £0.27 from Screwfix. The part no is (5390P). This will ensure the blank doesn't come out until the cover is off.

[@captainhowdy3104]

I'm here in the states, love watching u chaps over the water, and the varies between us. Thanks bud. East coast lineman

[@foolanders7425]

This guy makes things a lot simpler to understand, If he taught our college class it would have been (would) be a lot easier.

[@tonydavison3312]

Lovely job well done! As the tails are being upgraded, it’s certainly worth installing a 2 pole isolator switch, saves the next spark tugging on the cut outfuse :-) :-)

[@pauldavies1693]

Fantastic job, really professional and neat. Lots of extra jobs included. Thank you.

[@neilfarr5727]

Like seeing your horror stories and your work looks good quality. I just had a new kitchen and we discovered the previous tenant had a rat's nest of cables hidden in the ceiling. Two connector boxes without covers, directly under the upstairs bath u bend. Lighting and ring main on the same light switch, floating earth, spur off a spur and other delights. At least I do know more of what I'm doing, and importantly got an electrician to verify my work after, and they were amazed by the incompetence of the prior owners. Keep up the good work!

[@seanthiar]

Now I know why the british electrician that renovated my rented flat here in germany looked like a deer in the headlights when I told them to rewire because it was all wrong. The flat is in germany and the british landlord hired a british company to renovate the flat before I moved in here in germany and they brought their tools and materials. Only the outlets and switches were german. The problem is I'm a electrician myself and british standards are not german standards and many things that are normal in the UK are disallowed in germany. The problem with the mainfuse does not exist like that in germany. You have one 4- or 5-wire 3-phase-powercable coming in the house with a slow melting fuse for each phase. Amperes depending on the power requirement. The whole thing is in its own case with a seal and only the electrical company is able to change the fuses. But if they blow there must be a big error in the installation because the fuses in the following electrical meter box will normally blow way before them. In my old house we got 3x64A mainfuses from the company and in the electric meter box we got 3x32A automatic fuses. The cable goes after the main fuses in a electric meter box. There earth is added if it were a 4 wire cable, then first 3 faster fuses and then the electric meter for each flat its own or one for the house.The parts in the box up to the electric meter are all sealed and not touchable. First changeable and touchable without the electric company is after the electric meter. But if you need them an appointment is no problem. Most the time you only need to switch the fuses at the electrical meter and you can work. From there it goes to a fuse box in each flat and the first thing in that box before there are any appliances is an ELCB. For wet rooms like bath, toilet or outdoors are separate ELCB's with a different sensitivity needed. The most fuse boxes are not metal because of the danger that because of vibrations, ageing etc. when a live wire connects to the case and you touch the case you are electrocuted. And installation cables with wires without its own insulation does not exist, because you can not be sure that because of ageing or mechanical errors sometime you will get a shortcut between a live wire and earth. The risk that this happens to two wires at the same place is less when both are insulated. And the same for the wires - installation cables are not flexible in germany. Flexible cable does have a higher risk to loosen themself out of screwed connections and the resistance in the connection goes up and there is risk of a fire hazard. In 2017 a railway station in Linz burned because of a cable fire. It is encouraged to not use screwed connections any more and to use clamped (?) joints because they tighten themselves.

[@ryanbassett4099]

I’m sure SY is of German origin

[@adrianhurley5861]

Cool story bro

[@acelectricalsecurity]

i dont mind BG metal boards they seem the same as all the others really, what a lot of people dont realise is that the established brands ie MK, Crabtree and wylex were all saying their insulated boards complied with the british standards when they didnt but kept putting the BS number on them, yet they all failed the hot wire test, like most things its been swept under the mat. Plus BG has been around a long time.

[@johndufton9686]

A little note on knockouts. If you need to enlarge a hole or indeed make a hole try using the Q max hole punch. You can insert a 25 mm punch in a 20 mm knockout and enlarge it to 25mm and it leaves a very tidy hole.

[@misteranonymous5523]

Great video! Thanks for showing work in real situation and particularly not getting paranoid with matters with DNO.

[@dunckeroo1987]

Doubled over wire puts less stress on the screws and saddles and sometimes help keep the screw centered in its bore if wire is not rolling off to the side. It just a better mechanic connect for smaller wires wire doesn't fill the slot. The goal is not to fill the slot, but to make a stable connection.

[@Pengo4man]

BG Boards have massively improved, i choose them out of choice more than before. Good videos mate, been watching a long time.

[@securespark]

Better still to mount the CU on a board and take all cables back entry, no?

[@garethatkinson7765]

Saying 100A on the case doesn't make the fuse inside 100A.

[@alistairhinshelwood7469]

Nice to see a video of you fault finding will be great for students and newcomers!! Great videos keep them coming

[@michaeljohnson1006]

You don't want it too neat helps to keep the wires cool and no cable ties round the singles to cause over heating !

[@jamesmoon5632]

Question? What happens if there is a surge while rcd is off? Should this be fitted after main switch? Bg boards are high integrity boards. I didn’t read the instructions but that would be just common sense

[@starburst2203]

yeah its wired incorrectly

[@guymartin7757]

Did a consumer unit change a couple of weeks ago and the cu was provided by the client (retired spark) can’t say I was impressed when i saw it was BG but after fitting it I can say I would definitely use one again. Plenty of room & well constructed the only thing was that daft little spirit level, seem to remember Hager boards having those a few years back & they were useless as well

[@carlmarquardt994]

Great work Chris. Thanks for your efforts with these videos. I'm on commercial in London doing 90 percent containment work so it keeps my electrical knowledge up to date.

[@stevebrindley]

Love seeing you rip the fuse out , great that the seals were already cut . But it's real life !! What else are you going to do , under hse guidance you shouldn't work live unless absolutely no choice so the fuse has to go ! Like how you kept it in, most vids you see on here people cut that bit out

[@Rooster---ooo]

The local distributor can fit a double pole isolator for a 'small' fee prior to the sparky arriving to do his rewire. That's what needs to be done if you want to stay legal. Cutting the seals (these were already cut) & pulling the fuse is one of those laws most people know but few acknowledge.

[@calmeilles]

@@Rooster---ooo fitting a DP isolator should have been made mandatory decades ago. At a guess any time that idea is floated around the IET the DNOs lobby hard about "additional costs" - which is daft really as you can be certain any real additional costs are going to be passed onto the customer anyway.

[@Rooster---ooo]

@@calmeilles I agree they should be mandatory on new installations. I think they should also be fitted when a meter is changed as this can be done by either the DNO or the supplier's Meter Operator (as well as a sparky if the main fuse is pulled). Retrofitting them to all properties is more of an issue, depending on how many there are out there without iso switches. Technically once installed they are part of the internal wiring & therefore the property owners responsibility (though the DNO will usually call out & replace if one fitted by them becomes faulty). This means the DNO keeps no records of whether a property has an isolation switch or not (in the same way they don't keep a record of the type of earth which is also internal). A agree that the cost will ultimately be passed on to the consumer so it's no skin off the DNOs nose & they'll probably make a small profit fitting them.

[@bleakwinter1983]

@@Rooster---ooo RPU guys can technically charge the customer 95 quid if they don't have seals on the fuse and can prove it was them that did it / allowed it

[@Rooster---ooo]

@@bleakwinter1983 That is true but I think it's rarely enforced in the regions I cover. In fact I've never heard of anyone being fined in the 15 years I've been working in the industry. I think it's generally put down to the fuse fairy. Of course, if there is any sign of tampering (IE a bypass) then the revenue protection team will get involved & may well press charges. This does happen quite a lot, especially in the case of bypasses for cannabis factories that are rife in some cities.

[@johnstancliff7328]

how old is the house? fuse box? old homes can be a nightmare!

[@yannis92preloude]

I have fitted the same BG fuse box consumer unit into my house . I had no problem with this consumer unit I bought it when it first came out.nice fuse box well built good quality.

[@VincentArdolino]

Very interesting watching what from a US perspective are some scary electrical practices.

[@calmeilles]

It would be good to know what in particular strikes you as strange and/or alarming from a US perspective.

[@flowinsounds]

@@calmeilles pretty sue that the US doesn't bind neutral to earth at the edge, and require conduit for all exposed wires, but i could be wrong

[@calmeilles]

@@flowinsounds According to Wikipedia "The United States electrical codes require that the neutral be connected to earth at the “service panel” only and at no other point within the building wiring system" I've seen that in US electrician's KZbin videos explaining that neutral-earth is bonded at the main panel but *not* at any installed sub-panels. Panels are sold with a special removable link for just this purpose.

[@leebutterworth7465]

Hi Chris, have you thought about mounting your boards on a frame made of plastic trunking 25x38mm and bringing all your cables in the the back knock outs reason I do this is there’s no glands on show either top or bottom (glands never match in colour so looks more presentable to client)

[@Dave2108]

Thats the same as my Fuse box. Ive got 2 white 5amp fuses that when i moved in to my flat, covered 50% each of the lighting circuits, but since i had a shower installed 4-5 years ago its now 1 fuse covering ALL the lights.

[@raychambers3646]

This might sound a bit petty but I don't like the factory fitted conductors they seem to be overlong crimps .I have pulled bigger fuses live ,but where possible took load off.Little tip with PVC conduit if you got hot water on site run it over pipe you can bend it into some pretty fancy shapes!

[@ollie6133]

Nice video mate. Just a little tip when installing conduit, for anything other than singles, is to fix all your saddles up and then thread the conduit and boxes, elbows etc over the cable bit by bit and fix it up as you go with the cable in. It sounds wrong but it's so much easier

[@chewie1349]

👍

[@gibberingidiot]

I used to always use the BG plastic boards but I find their metal ones a bit of a pain - The knockouts always seem to be more difficult to get out than the alternatives (I guess that could be a plus in IP terms) - but the crappy grommet strip they give you for the larger cutouts will NOT stay in place once it's put under any pressure... Other than that the MCBs etc are fine and always easy to get replacements for and they are a good price for some of the larger options, especially with RCBOs

[@christopherhulse8385]

BG are chunky and reliable, i agree, there is consumer unit snobbery out there with some sparkies! iam not fussy which board i use, normally Wylex or BG, if iam doing a OAP installation, i will of course provide a discount, so tend to use more economical boards.

[@jamesm7002]

hd a friend once who ran a henley block from the dno fuse before the meter connected the meter as usual but had a second set of cables from the henley to his garage into a consumer unit its only years later as im learning all of this sort of stuff that i realise that the second cu he put in going to a henley block before the meter despite him having power in the garage was almost 100% an illegal hookup as it wasn't installed after but before meter his house would wire through his meter like normal into the henley then to the meter and out like it should do to the CU but not the second that was right into the henley you must have seen some clever ones and some damn dangerous ones in your time im sure would be fun to hear some stories and see a few

[@richardwash6678]

Great video Chris, would love to see a fault finding video - what ya think?👍

[@johnoreilly7052]

Nice job Chris and I love your work and videos

[@Mecelectonics]

for an nvq electritian that learned some job in UK I'd say perfect job, but as I'm working around europe especially in Germany, Austria and Poland to be honest technically wise England is so far behind.... It's like 1970's in Germany... I sometimes come back to UK to visit and it just feels like time travel Good job

[@arttra9158]

Krystian C oh mate, you need to have a poke around in some Spanish homes. Scary AF.

[@Deiphobuzz]

True, looking at this, compared to installs we do here here in NL this looks like something from a gone by age. Even in 60ies homes, the main lead comes into the house with a nice pipe around it, into a main fuse housing, and your fuse panels always fits flush ontop. Pvc pipes from there straight into the cealing. No wires to be seen anywhere AT ALL! No wires through sharp metal either.

[@eded6163]

the installation in the video is about 30years old, and Eu 30years old installations don't look any better, I workd there too

[@Adam-jf6gs]

Nice job you done here and nice board too. Soo glad when you ripped out the old board out.. Good Video..

[@andywright5131]

Seeing that main fuse get pulled on vid made cry with joy

[@calmeilles]

Seeing it pulled while still under load made me wince. I *hope* the only remaining load was the garage lights. :)

[@pzul9139]

Seems like BG have upgraded a bit, because the last one I fitted had crappy rubber strip for the knockouts at the back. Only other things that bug me are the that the main switch has a tendency to pop off the din rail, and the I prefer the MK board cables because the insulation allows for more flexibility inside. That being said they aren't bad for the money.

[@Si6Si6]

Yeah you shouldn’t pull the main fuse or access meter but needs must

[@aflash2d]

I know it is a late reply and I am just watching this now, but can i draw your attention to the part when you have the issue of not being able to fit the stuffing gland in the top because of the knockouts, (around 10 min in the video) I have found a step drill bit works very well for this to enlarge any knockout holes that are too small originally it normally does not affect the knockout next to it. its been a great help for me. hope this helps in the future.

[@artisanelectrics]

Nice video, personally I prefer Hager boards to BG, I find the lids never fit properly on the BG boards, they just feel quite poor quality, but you get what you pay for I guess!

[@ScottMcD91]

Love to see real life solutions. Good bye fuse 😂🤛

[@jrr851]

As an American, are meters typically installed inside the residence in the UK? It doesn't look like there was any type of tamperproofing on the meter either.... In the US criminals would wire around that meter (and possibly the fuse) in a heartbeat to grown various plants using free power... Our meters are on the outside of the building and secured with tamperproofing... I'm not saying that a criminal could not steal power, but they make it difficult. I also find it interesting that full mains voltage, unfused, isn't in a metal or plastic conduit coming in from the street.

[@aabhishekpaudel9684]

Are you allowed to take the main fuse out? I thought it could only be done by the distributor!? @cjr electrical

[@chargrill8019229]

@bigclivedotcom Yeah that is very true, i do think that people are cramming more and more these days, i guess as long as you alternate lights and sockets on dual rcd board then i suppose its no shakes if install is compliant, then you shouldnt get issues, other than numptys drilling thru stuff and faulty equipment. Thanks for the reply its nice to see other peoples point of view and thoughts. Cheers m8

[@evguysltdianlawrie2274]

Hi matey, having had a run in with Scottish Power over putting the fuse back in...yes, back in, following a new board install I now tell the customer to get an isolator fitted by their supplier. It’s a pain in the proverbial, but saves us being struck off NICEIC or fined. Just a bit of advice. Having said that...what they don’t know doesn’t harm them or us. 😜

[@michaeljarcher]

I just had my good friend come to change my 1970 consumer unit, he swears by Crabtree if possible, of course, price sensitive people bulk at the price. I got an RCBO Starbreaker unit. He said where he lives in Scotland MK are ok, but BG performance for his part of the world is not good and trips like fuc.ers with a not so stable voltage or earth potential. Makes you wonder if some units do perform better in different areas depending on the local power quality.

[@lshsparks1155]

Another good no nonsense video of real world working. Yes its preferable and recommended to carry out an EICR before hand but just not always possible. i always advise clients that fault finding and subsequent rectifications is at their additional cost. I just don't get the BG hate there is no such thing as a perfect csu brand they all have their pro's and con's. I believe the BG's have been revised recently with easier knock outs and easier to remove internal module cable terminals ( i prefer to strip the board forease of cable entry). They are competitively priced, made of a decent guage of steel (I think i have had sturdier pie trays than MK csu's are made from these days!, MK mcbs seem to all slant even when torqued correctly - infuriating to say the least. You cannot put most labels on a Wylex front cover due to their matt finish! The BG's have a good range of modules (mcb's, RCBO's etc). Finally yes their front covers are a bit of a pain but there is a nack to their correct fitment. Not sure how many Sparks are impact driving fixing screws into an uneven walls which inevitably deforms the csu and causes cover fitment issues. The covers are nice and secure once fitted. I feel your pain Chris i have had to move wardrobes, flooring etc to find faults at sockets etc due to previous poor workmanship.

[@GeneraleRus]

I really like watching UK electrical systems, how you guys use bus bars for earth and neutral, it makes the job much easier and neater! Also love the sheer amount of fuses or RCDs you install to divide the entire house electricals. Makes me cry that before 2003 my 1980s house didn't even have a RCD nor a overcurrent protection switch! we didn't even have a fusebox!

[@jdrelectricaltelford8896]

Doubled over is only bend it over once 😂 never heard of a quad over 🤣....Nice Job 👍🏼

[@rodrigodetriano8273]

You really know your stuff, i take my hat off 2 you. You can rewire my home anytime

[@lindsaycole8409]

The fuse cover you took off is supposed to be installed. So cables shouldn't be exposed in normal operation. Of covers homeowners took them off all the time. That era wylex is solid, with the obvious lack of RCD and on limits on number of circuits.

[@busman2000]

I was a little concerned when I saw the slightly exposed copper from the incoming top of the second R.C.D Active and Neutral in the new consumer unit that you put in. The neutral cable sheath looks like old phase wire from a three phase cable back in old colours it's way to dark blue for neutral, or am I just getting older and seeing things that aren't there.?

[@elBusDriverKC]

It's so wild to see other countries and their electrical distribution systems and panels. It's so different from here in the USA.

[@SL-ez7qn]

Good video and a pragmatic approach.

[@coastalconnections2507]

Keep it up mate. Good job. A real life job that hasn’t been glammed up for the camera. Love it.

[@iansyme3535]

If it were my house installation I would fit RCBO type "C" on EVERY outlet. I know it costs a lot of money, but then only one ring main or one lighting cct at a time goes out. Makes it easier also for the non-technical houseowner to fault. Fitted this system many years ago in my own house and must say gives me peace of mind. Causes much head scratching when boards are split in two for RCD switching and you discover that testing ring main in kitchen cuts off ring main in living room when important football match is being viewed. Invariably I find things are not marked up properly in peoples houses and this caused me much head scratching at a friends house I can tell you! I am no professional, just a lifetime of working with cables and my own home jobs but at least I understand a bit more than just the absolute basics. Some nice work and fault finding by the way! As for consumer units...…. construction on all of them is not what I would call "robust" compared to a MEM board I ripped out in my house many, many, years ago to replace with aboard which took MCB's. Ah, the good old days!

[@Danny-do2ov]

Top Guy! Great Upload As Always Mate! Very genuine and humble guy! Keep up the great work.😉

[@floatybyboaty]

I was always taught to replace the service fuse carrier, minus the fuse of course, whilst working .

[@apartmentswales]

That's an odd one, why replace a carrier with no Fuse, is it in case Network Services arrived!?! Sorry to have to ask, but having been a Commission Eng for more years than I care to mention, this is just so odd a thing to do, help! put me out of my missery. Mr Spence Eng

[@asef698]

Cheap nasty boards don't fit them, I'm going to fit this one today hahaha. Fitted a 12 way axiom board Thursday, cost £69.98. Was the only 12 way board which wasn't next day delivery. Nothing wrong with it. Solid build. Bus bars were already cut with covers on. Plus tbe tail gland pack came free with it, saving of £9 It's the little things that count.

[@asef698]

@Leigh Browne toolstation

[@asef698]

@msec Ses extra £40 for a 12 way mk board. (Client is a right tight arse) I find if you tighten from right to left with the mcbs you don't get the twisting, lined up fine, worst for not lining up for me are the Bg boards. Wylex nmx is a decent board. But yeah my go to 10 way board is probably an mk. Like anything else everyone had their own go to brand what suits

[@asef698]

@Leigh Browne fitted another one today, no hassle. See if it's worth it's price in a few years if anything starts failng

[@jf723]

Did your heart sink when the RCD tripped after all your testing. Know what that's like lol 😆

[@MrRanDomUk]

Solid boards, used them few times. Just don't know why they wouldn't provide metal blanks to comply with rest of board. Good video 👍

[@Cjrelectrical]

Yes they can be purchased and retro fitted

[@nickbuckle646]

Regards you 20mm knockout problem, if you get yourself 1 of the new 25mm fast cut holesaws they have a small pilot bit, it is posible to drill out the knockout by judging the back edge of you knockout with the back end of the cutter, go gently and the knockout will stay in place while you drill.

[@carlmarquardt994]

Yep true. Gently does it though.

[@wizard3z868]

drives me crazy in the states all wires coming into the panel need to have glands on them and your the first one ive seen use them thts why i now know you call them glands. i was calling them clamping bushings when replying to UK sparks

[@tonyhewett3729]

Also sometimes known as stuffing glands

[@AnimosityGamers]

The more I watch on UK wiring the more I realize how the wiring we do In Canada is like the wild wild West xD We megger nothing in houses, no individual plug fuses, etc. Kind of hilarious to be honest.

[@mtnshadid]

that's that i was arranging with my friend the other day that the i can't understand how US cabling work with all that mass !! We use UK standard and it's much better in managing electric

[@apartmentswales]

Now there is an eye opener, having worked in the USA and seen first hand how strict working to Code is, I would have thought the American Cousins would have followed suit. But I suppose like most countries of the world, there are good and bad, I bought some years back a house in France and the wiring looked like a child had installed it, a real F......... up; but just a Kilometer up the road I was installing a New Radial Circuit for a Neighbour and I have to say with hand on heart, his Distribution Board was Dressed Neatly and so well laid out that it was the Best laid out Board I had ever seen in my entire life of over 40yrs in the Industry, so it seems that some things can never be instantly judged (: Mr Spence Eng

[@jadon-sc1zj]

The only reason they have fuses in plugs is because they use ring mains which no other country does

[@flexonnthru9129]

Not very future proof with the sealent? Could maybe of thought of a better way. Next sparky will have the job of having to remove sealant if any further circuits to be added..

[@kaisernisar3266]

How many days or Hours did it take you to complete this job . Were you on your own.

[@HenryLoenwind]

Doesn't the SPD go low resistance when when handling a surge, such tripping its separate circuit breaker first and leaving the rest of the installation unprotected?

[@DaC-lt5mk]

They should do boards custom built to rcbos. Eg each rcbo slot should have an earth terminal and a neutral terminal above it. Would be able to dress them in so nice. Random thought

[@mountainfreedom9000]

did you put both lighting circuits on one rcd, myself lights up/sockets down, other rcd lights down/ sockets up

[@Lyndalewinder]

Great real-world video Chris - keep em coming and ignore the nitpickers!

[@marcus62647]

Keep up the great vids, by far my favourite KZbin Spark 👍🏻 I’ll be creating my own soon with any luck

[@G8TIC]

Nice job, like your work!

[@janm545]

Firstly I really enjoy watching your work. On this particular one - I am quite sure that you should install main bonding in all other places where conductive pipe of gas/water service going back underground and re-emerges in the other part of the house. I could be wrong though... Any thought?

[@18in80]

That's correct. Each time it emerges from ground or concrete floor etc. it needs to have a main bond taken to it.

[@ryanbassett4099]

Not 100% sure but I’m sure the push on DB blanks don’t meet 18th edition fixed blanks should be used either way best practice

[@SqwarkParrotSpittingFeathers]

Love the video. Liked your doubling over Mickey take. With regards to doubling over, which is, in part, so that a better connection is made, how does that requirement sit with Wagos? They only have a very thin line of Wago metal holding onto the wire's copper. They might hold the conductors well, but, the connection between the Wago and the copper is slim to almost non-existent. Yet, the objection in respect to your sometimes not doubling over, is nothing to the objection that should likewise be raised in respect of Wagos, but isn't. Why?

[@train4905]

Superb job sir.well done.

[@calvinhale2723]

Nice vids ! I like to see little tricks of the trade and how other sparks do things. Neat job btw ! couple of things I picked up on that may help, I install the BG boards and you can bore out a 25mm hole with a stepping cone drill bit. One of your earths coming in from the right has 3 different sections of sleeve on which leaves exposed earth copper within the board ? Quick question, what is the need for surge protection on that property ?

[@chargrill8019229]

Nice to see new tails being p clipped! I just love how meter monkeys like to float things in mid air and think its ok!

[@steverolfe70]

I don’t understand why people still insist on fitting split RCD boards. I have found that it is better to have a board with a main switch isolator and individual RCBO’s. This method although a little more expensive is far superior because if you have a fault on one circuit then only that circuit is affected. You should never have a situation where a fault on say a cooker circuit can knock your lighting off. I also think the exposed live cables you have that are not terminated property in the distribution board really needs rectifying.

[@yensabi]

Nothing wrong with BG boards and accessories , price wise there ain’t much difference but you get more room inside imo Great video Cheers......👍

[@nalaahznia1809]

I just change mine few weeks back and i should make a video to share it to everyone but i didnt get a change i use to be sparky. The only thing i dont like is layout of the board when u get them from the manufacturers is from to right to left. But i change mine from left to right. We normally read from LEFT TO RIGHT.

[@nalaahznia1809]

@@TheMattSturgeon im a 2391 certified way back then... and i ask my mate to do the certification as he had a company. Even i move to HV now just recently update my Elec. Wiring regs. 18th edition regs update. Its just comp. Policy send us yo this course. Even we dont use that much.

[@user-te1le7ck6b]

Excellent video as always As someone whose has multiple consumer unit changes I just wish all sparkles were as caring as you in terms of glanding everything etc Like your varied content not just electrics

[@adriancomtois834]

Hi I'm training, how do you identify conductors when not labelled to know what they are for.

[@loosecannon5813]

I like to have the tails identified as they exit the meter - or keep um guessing.

[@peatbogfaierie]

Will the local DNO or Electrical Supplier reseal the main fuse & meter after a rewire?...i've seen customers being billed royally for finding security seals missing.

[@dasy2k1]

Yeh you are up 💩 creek of the DNO come out for any reason and the seals are broken or missing! Dreading it when I get my meter changed soon as my main fuse has no seals

[@jamesosborne754]

Daniel Smith why are you “ dreading it “ loads of houses don’t have the meter seals on anymore , there’s no proof of who removed them ?

[@dasy2k1]

@@jamesosborne754 because the DNO have a habit of charging a punitive price to fit fresh ones when they change the meter

[@martinjoyce3814]

Don't like the idea of the plastic glands you use for tails and garage bits. Surely they defeat the object of the fire integrity. I know brass or other metal ones are available, even Ex. rated ones. Would they not be a better choice ?

[@blissof892]

16:54 Thats why people ask why you use screwfix. Some of their stuff is ok but the quality of their cable management systems is atrocious. Wholesalers for me every time for the bread and butter, screwfix can be really useful for some stuff though just because of their range of stock. Their trunking, capping, oval conduit is all the same, I hate to think what their steel conduit and tray is like.

[@tomorichard]

Blissof89 it’s so strange to see trades people using screwfix. Here in Cornwall it’s well known to be a diy store. Full of cheap substandard products like bandq

[@sinista6536]

tomorichard Thompson it’s because Screwfix and B&Q are owned by the same company so are essentially the same thing just branded differently. Ones branded as a DIY store whereas the other is branded as a trade store but they sell the same products

[@sen5908]

I’m not a spark but before ripping out the old board would it be a good idea to go around and test all the circuits for faults, ie a socket testing tool, after fitting a new board, what would happen if it kept tripping out due to faults, that could of been spotted before fitting a new board?

[@Cjrelectrical]

Yes an EICR can be carried out to identify any unforeseen faults. But as the consumer unit was changed the whole house gets tested.

[@nickbuckle646]

Just wondering about having the SPD on the RCD protected side of the board rather than next to main switch. What consideredbest practice?

[@lshsparks1155]

BG SPD instructions state their module can be installed before or after an RCD as the unit doe not have earth leakage. I have personally installed before an RCD next to main switch just my preference but i wold not hesitate to do as CJR has either. I believe the regs just state install at the origin i don't have BS7671 immediately to hand apologies but i would consider within a csu that is located immediately adjacent the service head/ meter to be origin. Hope that helps.

[@mrbreakstuf]

these currents woaw. in netherlands its not allowed to exceed b 16a unless that group has a main purpose: airco, big washing machine. but b32 for just sockets woawww

[@chewie1349]

I'm guessing you have radial circuits. Google Ring main (ring final circuit if you want to be precise) It's a British thing

[@mrbreakstuf]

@@chewie1349 I see. thanks for reaction. I was wondering how this would be safe with such high currents. Our consumer unit looks more like 1x 40a 3fase main switch. 1x eartswitch 30mA 4x b16a and both life and neutral are switched.

[@stevelee9924]

@@mrbreakstuf Just because the Protective device is 32A, it doesn't mean you have a 32A current flowing.

[@titmando1199]

Really good video, straight to the point and no meandering talking about your day or some other bullshit 🤛😂😂

[@javierpuerta8074]

NEC 2017 Lighting fixtures above a pool must be installed at a minimum height of?

[@craigemmott4976]

Great to see you keeping it real Chris.

[@richardfld]

Just FYI, I'm a jointer and have had a fuse go bang on me before. Luckily it was one time I was actually wearing my PPE. Otherwise I'd have been fucked. Pulling fuses ain't a joke. And at least get a fucking shroud in the live side of the cut out if you're going to be waving your hand around it. Most suppliers (especially the big 6) will have no quibble regarding whacking an isolator up if you get customer to call them.

[@Cjrelectrical]

Yeah I’ve since spoken to the dno and have my own procedure.

[@MrRanDomUk]

Believe it or not, having the colours showing on your tails is a no no, as it fails on the double insulation of the tails. Very picky, but I've been picked up on it, and have had to rectify it in the past.good day

[@sashawallbank9197]

Hi, just picked up on a comment and hoped to clarify :). The socket fault, are you saying it didn’t trip the rcd it just didn’t switch off when you pressed the test switch?

[@kevincuthbert3058]

As a mechanical engineer who’s path crosses electrics quiet often I was interested to know the need for surge protection. Does it protect the board or ring mains and is it necessary or just a nice to have.

[@Cjrelectrical]

Sensitive electronic equipment in the house the surge protection device takes the hit rather than it travelling down the fixed wiring and to the accessories. Type 2 spd

[@hedleywilliams392]

@@Cjrelectrical how do you know when the spd has operated correctly? Is there a visual prompting you to replace the cartridge?

[@Cjrelectrical]

Yes just like an mcb you will have to check the manufacturer instructions but I believe the bg is black and red

[@treestump2985]

2 questions 1 will you de rate the cable you have run in conduit for towel heater. 2 what are you using surge protection on. Cheers

[@robywankenobi32]

The surge protector looks like its for the entire board