ELEGOO MARS 2 PRO VS MARS PRO EXPERIENCE

[@AdamMann3D]

Not sure why you hate resin printers all together. My experience with the Photon was flawless. I'll be recieving my Mars 2 Pro for review tomorrow. We will see how bad it really is.

[@Cloakfiend]

I think my lcd is extruding a bit too much thats all. Its all good now but still got to relevel again to rid the knocking.

[@CAMSLAYER13]

Well? How has it been?

[@Cloakfiend]

@@CAMSLAYER13 ive been away for a while but am back now and playing with grey settings in chitubox as im getting pixels on the vertical axis. The mono screens sharpness maybe an issue also.

[@sar2908]

Thanks mate, your video has just saved me from ordering this Pro 2.

[@Cloakfiend]

Its got a great uv source and the quality of prints is amazing, but just one weeks use of leveling and the build plate scratched up the screen pretty bad. The mars pro screen was better imo. They need to put the screen under glass or something. Its almost impossible to clean without damaging it!

[@Mr_Ponzo]

@@frankinmouse wait... what? do you need to remove the black tape?

[@Mr_Ponzo]

@@frankinmouse i mean... it came with a film to protect it but never thought the black tape would be part of it

[@frankinmouse]

@@Mr_Ponzo The tape in his video on the lcd looks like cheap electrical tape, that can't be right.

[@Mr_Ponzo]

@@frankinmouse mine has the same so I guess its like the default quality.

[@kaldarleifar]

were you trying to level the build plate with the screws tightened when you did the paper demonstration?

[@Cloakfiend]

Im going to carry out a few suggested methods of leveling tomorrow. The screen with tape sits above the top level of the printer unlike the pro making it more difficult to level. Ill also raisr my cure times. But the screen is already worn as its unprotected.

[@Nexus-Technology]

Sorry to hear you didnt have the best experience with your Mars 2 Pro. I just put out a review video on it as well and I had much better results and an overall great experience with the machine. Maybe it was a faulty unit, hope you had fun making the video regardless! :)

[@Cloakfiend]

My friends also had good luck with a few of theirs. But the screen issue remains. They get scratched easy. Some people are using a microfibre cloth beneath the paper to level.

[@josephjohnson7232]

I had a great experience as well..just got mine 3 days ago and I’ve printed a few things. Maybe he got a faulty unit like you said.

[@Julzilla]

I know your pain man. Troubleshooting new printers makes me go crazy.

[@jolliemark6294]

One thing I noticed is you didn't lessen the screws when you were leveling the build plate and pulling the paper did the scratches....hose this helps if you haven't sent it back already.... 😁

[@Cloakfiend]

Thanks! Luckily I sorted it now. I havent used it in a while through. The main issue was the false leveling. Because the screen is not flush like the pro. It dips during leveling making it at a false height. So for levelling I now use 2 to 4 sheets of paper in stead of one.

[@jolliemark6294]

That is good to know, thanks...

[@PigeonPrint]

Thanks for the video. the LCD implementation is terrible, really needs to have the screen protector and sit flush, having it raised like that tightens the FEP in the tank to the point you're not going to get enough flex from it and end up with a tug of war between the FEP and the bed every layer.

[@luckettx]

Are you actually me?! I too rushed in and got a 2 Pro, and all its printing is pancakes as it fails after the base layers. The suction on my machine seems insane at that stage, where the adhesion on the plate doesn't stand a chance as it seems to apply full force which then results in the fail. Dunno where I'm at personally, whether I try to sand the plate down as it may be uneven, replace the FEP on the vat to see if thats at fault and get a bit of PTFE in there, or even try my old Pro 1 vat and FEP that actually, you know, printed stuff. One thing I'm worried about is if this tape gasket they've put around the screen is actually acting as a vaccuum space because its a bit slapdash, amplifying the force going on in vat. Since its all the same hull as the Pro 1, but without the glass screen protector, what if there's just a void there? I've thought about resin temperatures since its gotten a bit cooler in the UK and if thats at play but you said you warmed yours. Honestly, its kind of relieving to see someone else go through all this with the same machine. Felt really down about it compared to people saying its great and printing fine.

[@shewolfninja]

Had no issues with the Pro 2 since getting it. Seems more like a you problem.

[@luckettx]

@@shewolfninja Considering I'm replying to a video that has the exact same issue I'm having in the exact same timeframe, it seems more like its an Elegoo problem. I guess the grid problems with the Pro 1 were "you" problems too 🙄

[@Cloakfiend]

@@shewolfninja seems like your a 'you dont have a problem so you are just gonna troll those who do' kind of a person. I hope one day you have a problem so that you understand the other side.

[@Cloakfiend]

@@luckettx yes. Im by no means the best resin printer in the world. But if i can get past pancakes and have no issues on my pro apart from the grid lines, then clearly something is different with the pro 2.

[@Wraith-Knight]

i was thinking of getting the Jupiter what printer are you using now

[@Cloakfiend]

To be honest i love my mars2pro now. I made this review because they understated the cure times and I had so much failure it made me depressed. They are all pretty decent printers but, my experience tells me that learn on something smaller before going large. Those big resin printes use a lot of resin. Mistakes and failures become very expensive after a while. I hear good things about the saturn 2. Not heard that much about the Jupiter though.

[@Wraith-Knight]

@@Cloakfiend ok thanks for the advice

[@Cloakfiend]

@@Wraith-Knight anytime!

[@tsilfidis1996]

ye when i saw that screen tape... do they even try anymore ?

[@LucasZml]

Thank you Cloakfiend for your valuable input on the recent issues. Straight to the point! Love it! Subscribed and looking forward to your next one regarding the new array for M1P. I am waiting for one too... nearly a month now...

[@Redpulsar2011]

Really nice comments! You seem really pissed off lol! Thank you for your input ;)

[@Cloakfiend]

Thanks. The main problem is that rather than upgrading everything. stuff some parts are worse than before so it makes it hard to compare. The mono screen is ok but the fact that chitubox also changed the default setting makes things even worse. Grey amount and blur are at a stupid levelby default.

[@jvon3885]

It's strange how your experience and my experience is completely different. As in none of your issues showed up with my printer.

[@Cloakfiend]

Each to their own i guess. Many people have had the same issues with the easily damaged screen and poor levelling. But i have got it to work. But need a new lcd now.

[@jvon3885]

@@Cloakfiend I get it I'm just impressed with it so it sucks your was a shit out the box.

[@theoriginaltroll4truth]

My Mars original is great, but as I'm findind with all printers, fickle. Bought the Prusa MK3, was on waiting list, every review "it's the heaven send of all printers", was nothing but a possessed hell spawn for me, sold it 3 months later with 5 semi successful prints. Thanks for the honest review. Seems Elegoo needs to work on quality before rushing out their printers in a big way. Did you get grid patterns on your Mars Pro? Hear they had the grid pattern problem with the Saturn too, that they were working on a fix. Supposedly new Saturn's won't have that issue.

[@GearheadStew]

I thank you kindly for making this video. I was thinking of jumping into resin printing with this printer, but after watching your video I'm definitely going to just stick to my FDM printers. No fumes with that one either :)

[@Cloakfiend]

Youre welcome. Its far more troublesome than fdm for sure. And resin can make your head hurt after a while sitting with it in the air.

[@sexybooru]

@@Cloakfiend After 2 years exposed to resin fume I'm now very sick after only entering the printing room for 5 minutes. My eyes and my throat burn for up to a day with just a 5 minutes of exposure. This is using engineering resin with no shrinkage and high spec.

[@Cloakfiend]

@@sexybooru i cant stand the smell of resin!!!

[@MOVIEKICKS]

@@sexybooru Sorry to hear you developed sensitivity to the resin smell. I'm new to resin printing and this is a concern of mine as well so I'm trying to find the best way to contain and ventilate the smell to minimize exposure. I've seen some people contain the smell w/ success by running their printers in grow tents w/ an exhaust vent coming out of the tent.

[@christophbecker4113]

Today the "BROTECT AirGlass"-screen protectors for 7" screens arrived. I cut one of them down to the size needed by the Mars 2 Pro and installed it. Furthermore I disassembled the resin vat holders and milled both of them down by 0.5 mm, so that I now have more clearance for the resin vat. Now I can place or remove it without risking to scratch the screen. Then I made a test print with the kudo3d calibration modell (www.kudo3d.com/tag/calibration/) with Bluecast 5x with an exposure time of 9 seconds/per layer. The result was the best I could achieve until now. The details are very good, while the dimension too is very good, compared with the stl-File in Meshmixer. For the printing of modells for lost-wax dental castings, the Mars 2 Pro combined with Bluecast 5x seems to be very good. However, since for the purpose of printing dental models for checking the fit of casted or milled crowns or dentures one can't have enough precision, I now have ordered the Phrozen Sonic 4k (phrozen3d.com/collections/resin-3d-printer-phrozen/products/sonic-4k-resin-3d-printer-phrozen) which has a 4 k screen with only 6.1", which results in an xy-resolution of only 35 µm, while it is also much faster than the Mars 2 Pro and the Phrozen Sonic 4k mini.

[@davestubechannel1473]

Hi Christopher giving the state on how delicate these screens are, your modification has to be a must. FWIW I'm a spectacle wearer so cleaning and taking care of surfaces that can scratch comes second nature to me. Its a pity that Elegoo never took this into consideration when they designed this printer! Would really like to see your modification is there any chance you could post it on the web? There is an Elegoo FB page : facebook.com/groups/elegoomars

[@frankinmouse]

My comments were based on watching an unboxing of the mars pro 2 that looked different..perhaps the machines sent out for review were of higher quality.

[@Cloakfiend]

Possibly but this is what youll get if you take off all the plastic protectors. Ill post me removing them in my next vid to show more detail i didnt want to do a whole unboxing.

[@orhanyor]

after watching this im wondering if i should get the original mars, at half price looks tempting

[@Cloakfiend]

At half price defo. Id say. Just to try it out. I learnt a lot just on the pro as it was. The fundemetals of supports, leveling temperature and cleanup.

[@rrswitch48]

@@Cloakfiend The original mars is best! believe me! These upgrades are hideous and not necessary.

[@Cloakfiend]

@@rrswitch48 somehow i believe you. Its false marketing. And i fell for it. Ill admit it.

[@johnyip156]

I agree that the glass seems really easy scratched. That’s what happened with mine. I did notice that I couldn’t get a proper level so I left it where I couldn’t move the paper. Seems ok for now.

[@Cloakfiend]

Hope it works out ok!!

[@ajc4477]

Seems like Elegoos success has resulted in quality control issues, they're literally knocking these out at the rate of knots. I've been using an Anycubic photon for a couple of years, I did replace the Z axis with an aftermarket dual linear rail set-up - it's solid though and it produces awesome aterfact free prints. Try the plant based resins, they're almost odour free.

[@Make3DTV]

That trench is probably because they're planning on putting a different screen in there at some point. Pull that light source out and stick into your pro. What a mess!

[@Cloakfiend]

Im sure thats the idea. Once they get the lcds on glass there will be no need for the trench.

[@Make3DTV]

@@Cloakfiend Did you see the facebook thread where you can adjust the brightness on the LED panels in the Pro? facebook.com/groups/elegoosaturn/permalink/715798482337935

[@Cloakfiend]

@@Make3DTV no i wasnt aware of that! Thanks. Im not a part of that group yet.

[@Make3DTV]

Actually, looking at it again, this may be the same issue on the Saturn. Not sure if the pro has the same screws to adjust brightness. Hmmm.

[@christophbecker4113]

Thank you for your videos, research and warning. Scratching of display is an old problem known from digital cameras and other appliances. The typical solution to prevent these scratches are screen protector foils.

[@Cloakfiend]

Ive come from a mars pro and that had a glass protector so this was my first encounter with an unprotected lcd. I hear the only reason they are like this is due to cost. Id happily pay more for a model that had the protected screen. Apart from that and chitubox changing the grey and blur value for antialiasing the mars 2 pro is actually not that bad at all. Im going to post an update video soon. This was my first weeks hands on doing it buy the book and on default its simply misleading and not calibrated. There is also too much give in the lcd during leveling which raises it to a false value leading to initial impact on the first layer.

[@christophbecker4113]

@@Cloakfiend My Mars 2 Pro arrived today, since it was to late to reverse the order after having seen your review. Another point is, that thanks to your review I have ordered 7" display protectors of the type "BROTECT AirGlass" which will arrive tomorrow. The light source is really great. In addition to a Mars Pro and the new Mars 2 Pro, I do have two Zortrax Inkspire. With the Inkspires I had many print errors. Thanks to your videos on the Mars Pro grid issue, I did now check the light units. In fact, the Inkspires too have uneven light distributions which render large parts of the build area are in fact unusable. Since I bought these printers to print precision parts and models in my dental lab, these uneven light distributions were a real problem, until I did not recognize them, since I was so naive to believe that at least these expensive printers from Zortrax would have an even light distribution. So, thank you very much again for your research and your reviews, which were very helpful.

[@Cloakfiend]

@@christophbecker4113 your welcome apart from the screen the mars 2 pro is pretty decent. The pro still bothers me with its lines.

[@cursedfox4942]

I believe you have to change exposure settings things like that Thats why its not pulling off the bottom I watched a bunch of videos on this, also they are now shipping with glass on top of the lcd

[@Cloakfiend]

Really? I wasnt aware of the glass on top thanks for letting me know! I got it workinh itm but my lcd is badly damaged. I havent seen anywhere on the net to buy replament screens though.

[@samuelgonzalez7783]

This makes me think what could be wrong with the sonic 4k mini. That screen must have a screen protector for me to feel comfortable. Gotta email them about that. This really shows first hand consumer expectation from this. I don't get why this screen scratches easily like this. I tried the first Elegoo Mars then returned it in favor for this, but ordered the sonic 4k mini. As what you mentioned it worries me. The fumes situation I'm working on a carbon filter system for that.

[@Cloakfiend]

Yeah that screen scratches real easy.

[@samuelgonzalez7783]

@@Cloakfiend The regular mars was fine with the screen. I used the manual for the leveling tool and that gave me great prints. Didn't have to move the paper though. The instructions was to have the paper there and lightly press the bed down and tighten it. Didn't see anything about having to move the paper around. Still, email the manufacture about the issue on, if present, on the Sonic 4k mini.

[@Cloakfiend]

@@samuelgonzalez7783 this one is way too tight even with two sheets of paper and another .01mm raise.

[@ryangill9518]

Have you tried applying a few drops of PTFE lubricant to the FEP sheet? Wipe it down with a few drops and let it dry before adding the resin back.

[@Cloakfiend]

Its printing now. Just needed way more clearance. Than my pro. Screen is still scratched mind you.

[@thetigerman]

@@Cloakfiend can you do a video on how you got it to print well. Im trying to level it properly and failing.

[@Cloakfiend]

@@thetigerman sure will do that today....!

[@thetigerman]

@@Cloakfiend thank you

[@Cloakfiend]

@@thetigerman got a bit delayed but ill edit and post it in the next few days!

[@valerbeian2749]

Thank you for your work!

[@Cloakfiend]

Yout welcome more to come!!

[@nftniche9548]

If you need help hmu I had frustrations. But I set my settings correctly in Chitubox and leveled my elegoo and now its printing perfectly!

[@Cloakfiend]

Im super happy now. It was the 2 second cure times in chitu that threw me but thanks for the offer!!

[@darren990]

you are right they have seemed to rush it out .tapes there in case you spill resin helps it not leak into your machine ...you need zortrax resin printer or prusa rein printer..

[@Cloakfiend]

Ive been told the tape is there to prevent light leak from the sides of the lcd rather than for preventing the resin spills.

[@darren990]

@@Cloakfiend Wow light leak

[@JohnJones-oy3md]

The adventure continues.

[@Cloakfiend]

Indeed! Lol

[@Mr_Ponzo]

@@CloakfiendI got the opposite. It worked perfect on a print i could not get on the mars pro. The thing is that I printed it with the old mars pro resin tank on which I applied a little bit of wd40 because I had the same, that it would not stick to the plate

[@Cloakfiend]

@@Mr_Ponzo ill try another round of attempts tomorrow, but the screen is so bad now i cant keep it in that state. All the horizontal wipes are from gentle cleaning with a microfibre clith with ipa.

[@christophbecker4113]

An issue with my Mars 2 Pro is, that the resin vat which is a little to big, so that it may scratch the LCD-screen if pushed in. Since I have two spare metal resin vats from my Mars Pro, I tried one of them on the Mars 2 Pro, and, lo and behold, this vat has just the right size to be placed in the Mars 2 Pro without force and scratching. So, if one would have to use the original resin vat of the Mars 2 Pro, at least with my machine, the resin vat or the resin vat holders must be grinded down a bit, so that the vat can easily be brought into position with out scratching.

[@Cloakfiend]

I thought that the mars pro vat was exactly the same size as the pro 2!

[@christophbecker4113]

@@Cloakfiend They lock the same and they have almost the same size, but the cast metal frames of the vats I have seem to have a small variability of a few 1/10 of a mm. A 1/10 of a mm in metal constructions can be the difference between enough clearance and to tight.

[@headhunter_4209]

As for the problem with the sounds when it's hitting the bowl and the bottom it sounds like it's got a failed to stop switch probably got a faulty machine need sending back it happens

[@Cloakfiend]

Its going back for sure. Ill do a few more tests but there is too much mechanical noise with this unit.

[@jamesderiter4370]

Bro of course you're having problems. 1. Never put the build plate directly onto the display metal will certainly scratch it like it clearly has on yours. 2. your prints are failing because your build plate is faulty. I had the exact same issue with my pro and purchasing a new build plate fixed it. You're clearly in the community to some degree but don't seem to know how to actually setup and use your machine

[@Cloakfiend]

no the only issue was the 2sec cure times. ive increased it to 2.6 and all is well! the buildplate has touch the fep on the screen btw!

[@jamesderiter4370]

@@Cloakfiend in the video there was a part where you had it directly on the display without fep and resin tank or paper

[@Cloakfiend]

@@jamesderiter4370 the screen has a thin protector over it anyways so even if you do scratch it lightly, you can apply some rubbing compound and smooth it out!. I used scratchX and it worked great.

[@TheVFXAssault]

Yo, I hope you get your hands on the anycubic mono x. Elegoo has ficked up with every single printer except the original Mars that works...

[@Cloakfiend]

Thats exactly what i think! They dont seem to be implementing this new tech into new machines very well.

[@retromodernart4426]

The anycubic mono (not mono x) has the grid problem, too, I have both.

[@TheVFXAssault]

@@retromodernart4426 The mono x doesent than ? That would be great.

[@retromodernart4426]

@@TheVFXAssault Sorry for late answer: The Mono X *DOES NOT* have the grid problem. It's unbelievable how good it is. I had the "curved build plate" problem (got a pre-order unit), Anycubic sent me a new plate.

[@TheVFXAssault]

@@retromodernart4426 thank God ! I'm buying it than, thnx

[@reconmodelsvaughn469]

Omg man maybe you just got a bad one I have 6 of them and never ever had any problems with them at all ..I think you have a bad one really I love all of them try and send it back and get a replacement and see if you have the same problem seems like you are jumping the gun big time

[@Cloakfiend]

It was a series of bad batches and poor quality control. I got a few replacement light and internals and the pro seems better. One thing I can definitely say is that they do respond as a company. And send me lots of replacents parts. So for that im grateful. The trouble was that they didnt know the issues early on. Its all good now.

[@fusobotic]

Sounds like a defective unit or something, mine is just fine. Sounds like the poor adhesion could be due to leveling. Make sure when you level it to unscrew those nuts a good amount then let it home then tighten the fuck out of them and go up 1 step. Tension is perfect if you can pull out the paper without tearing it. I thought mine would be too tight to the build plate but it was actually perfect. If that doesn't work idk bro.

[@thetigerman]

I been failing for a couple of days also. With the Pro I never had a failed print. With the pro 2 all my prints have failed.

[@Cloakfiend]

I feel your pain. Get 3 or 4 sheets of paper and do it! You will have more luck. At least 2! The issue is that the lcd sticks out and moves during levelling and it messes up the z=0 height. Also dont press down hard on it when screwing in the head screws! Hope that helps! And make sure the paper is not held down tighter at one side. Try and get it as level as you can without disturbing the lcd. And dont pull hard on the paper or like me youll just end up scratching the screen. I know people who lay a thin microfibre cloth down and then put a sheet of paper on that and level it.

[@thetigerman]

@@Cloakfiend I can't wait to get home and try this 👍

[@davestubechannel1473]

@@thetigerman As Cloakfiend has already mentioned do not press down too hard when tightening the build plate . Also when tightening the two hex socket screws, tighten them in stages and don't try to tighten one up all the way and then the other, I found that the ball the screw winds into can move resulting in one corner lifting on the plate.

[@CAMSLAYER13]

What resin printer would you recommend?

[@Cloakfiend]

Its difficult to say because changes in chitubox and the monoscreen have their own issues. For instance the marspro has a vertically smoother surface than the mars 2 pro due to sharpness and printing closer to the screen, but the mars has the stupid grid array. It depends on what you want. Neither are perfect, the ideal would be a cross between them. Ive heard positive things from anycubic mono printers but ive heard they have very poor customer service. But i'd start on small before jumping to a bigger one. It takes a bit of getting used to understanding and deciding between support thickness and easy of removal as well. Prep work can be very important regarding hollowing and supports! Hope that helps!

[@CAMSLAYER13]

@@Cloakfiend thanks for your help. I'm leaning towards getting the og Mars so far since even though it's old the supposed quality increase with the pro isn't enough to counter the potential problems, I was also thinking photon but their push towards proprietary software only is off putting.

[@Cloakfiend]

@@CAMSLAYER13 propriety software is why i went with the mars pro. Such a shame about the grid as its otherwise a great solid printer with a real solid glass lcd with is superior to the durability of the mars 2 pro.

[@rrswitch48]

@@CAMSLAYER13 OG MARS LOL! But correct choice!

[@CAMSLAYER13]

@@rrswitch48 that is the one i went for in the end, it was pretty damn cheap at the time

[@The_Mimewar]

someone needs to learn how to resin print. I have a Mars in my living room office and with the red lid on, i cant smell it, but I clean properly and prepare.

[@Cloakfiend]

If you spend a long time cleaning then you will inevitable smell it eventually unless its extremely well ventilated.

[@ianstainer8025]

Don't be put off by this video... I have had no problems with this printer, 100% success, everything from rook to giant 78mm diameter rook and mini models all with supports and no errors. The one thing that every Mars owner should do and this is for the Mars, Mars Pro, and Mars Pro 2 is level the build plate / bed with two pieces of house A4 drawing card and not 1 piece of A4 paper, this will reduce failed prints and increase the high details of your models. The other change that Pro 2 owners should do is increase the exposure time to 3 seconds, as the advertised is too low. Other setting = Bottom layers 8-10 Bottom exposure 40sec Bottom lift height 5mm Bottom lift speed 50mm/sec Normal exposure 3sec Normal lift height 3mm Normal lift speed 70mm/sec Retract speed 150mm/sec Enjoy Can you update your video after re setting the build plate with two piece of card. And using settings provided I feel that this printer is a great step up from my old Mars Pro, so much better detail and speed.

[@Cloakfiend]

Im trying out your suggestions now....

[@ianstainer8025]

@@Cloakfiend just a quick update, in my first reply I stated card. ( That card should be 160g/m2 or if you don't have card you can use 4 pieces of 80g/m2 paper) Also the lift speed is /min not /sec as I put. And I have recently increased my exposure time to 3.5 seconds with better results 👌

[@alwar5822]

Try the LD-002H

[@MM-zd6wf]

Sorry, but Josh Russel (and others) are right. You have NO IDEA, what are you doing!!!

[@Cloakfiend]

As does anyone who first uses a resin printer. I was simply following instructions. But even still the menu sucks regarding z=0 and adjusting it from scratch when you want to up it or down it. and so did the screen which i hear they have changed now. It prints well but i came from the mars pro nightmare which i had no issues printing with. So i do know what im doing. But everyone has their own opinions. Also chitubox grey and blur changed back then so this video is now out of date. And not relevant to todays releases. Ill make a follow up next week.

[@MM-zd6wf]

@@Cloakfiend ok, but probably it is a good idea to read or watch something first and only then try to print. Lesson learned, but in an expensive way...

[@Cloakfiend]

@@MM-zd6wf yeah i also made this video when i was upset so that didnt help. I need to make a follow up to clear it all up. The quality of prints is great but the learning curve is quite different coming from fdm. Different factors to worry about!

[@headhunter_4209]

The tape is to stop the FRP seet creating suction to the screen causing failed prints like the original as, did you undoo all you bolts fully before leaving? Also the new mars levels with card not papper to prevent scratching. Failed prints are almost always caused by the Gcode. Watch some videos on how to eliminate faild prints. Same thing happened to me until a dialled in all my steps what she know what you doing it's an easy printer to get working with out fails just need to do a bit of research.

[@Cloakfiend]

I'm using models that I always have used as benchmarks thats ive used many times before (and work) (and others have printed them)so i know they work. The 'gcode' or ctb file is fine. And the tape is not there to prevent suction but rather to keep the screen in place and prevent dust and other elements from entering around. No large lcds are generally available pre attached to tempered glass unfortunately. The mars pro screen was fine imo. The screen is not attached to tempered glass for cost reasons only, even though there may be a benefit of being closer to the lcd by not being attached. However the chance for long term damage with heavy use is extremely high!l as a result. And many people have mentioned the mars leveling card is far too thin. A better choice would be an fep or micro fibre cloth with a sheet of paper on.

[@paleogeology9554]

Paper doesnt scratch glass, NOT WIPING THE GLASS OFF FIRST CAN. Its not Elegoos fault you dont know what the hell your doing

[@gauthierquercia5540]

dont worry it will come to you. you 've donne everything exept the obvious...

[@Cloakfiend]

Im sure. Just not having a good time lately. Just need to start fresh.

[@Cloakfiend]

@@frankinmouse theres already tape on it.

[@frankinmouse]

@@Cloakfiend it looks like electrical tape on yours that doesn't look right. Unless someone actually used cheap electric tape building your machine!

[@Mr_Ponzo]

@@frankinmouse don´t! there is only one film and that you have already taken it away.

[@Cloakfiend]

@@frankinmouse it comes like that out of the box.

[@goodcontent5053]

QUIT RUBBING THE SCREEN IF ITS ALREADY SCRATCHED. Your just scratching it more by doing that. Also, you can replace the screen and it only took me like 15 min.

[@4funrc11]

Oh my. Saying, I'm so sorry hardly covers how utterly disappointed you must feel. Jeezus, good-faith purchases turning into tragedy after tragedy... 😠

[@Cloakfiend]

My venture into resin printing has not started well!! I got it printing finally but the lcd not being flush causes issues and the decrease in weather means I need longer curing times....

[@kavoovak6646]

To many problems with Elegoo, Im returning my "pro" for a Photon...

[@amubis1]

Do you know how to print at all .....and do you ever read anything ......you dont level bed with screws done up ......the weird noise is the packing grease on the z axis

[@Cloakfiend]

Of course you dont level the bed with the screws done up. I have a pro remember. I had no issues with that one. Leveles just fine.

[@amubis1]

@@Cloakfiend Then why do you need the extra increments thats the whole point of the sprung bed ball joint

[@Cloakfiend]

@@amubis1 the lcd is not flush and has play

[@shewolfninja]

You quite obviously have no idea what you're doing so im not sure why you've made a review. Elegoo recalled the Pro because of lighting issues causing black marks and inconsistent curing so why are you comparing it to a model that has been recalled? You seem like you need a lot of help and I recommend you join the facebook community before you post any more reviews. It's honestly embarrasing to watch you.

[@Cloakfiend]

Ive have a bad experience with the pro 2.. i had a better experience with the pro 1. Id say thats a fair comparison. Hearing weird mechanical noises and witnessing elongated print times plus a screen that is hyper easy to scratch is in my opinion a valid reason to be negative. I had zero troubles printing on my pro. So while you have your opinions ill have mine. This unprotected screen issue is going to rear its head again.... count on it.

[@Mr_Ponzo]

@@Cloakfiend it looks like @kirsty hasnt even checked your past videos. I´m amazed by how fanboys appear everywhere.....

[@Cloakfiend]

@@Mr_Ponzo I know, some people are just ignorant.

[@joshuar56]

Yeah this guy is a moron...

[@PigeonPrint]

Kirsty, Elegoo has not recalled the Pro, they have repeatedly offered replacement part to try and solve the grid issue, not of them have worked so far, and offered people $15 refunds, that is far from a product recall. I suggest you watch some more of Cloakfiend's videos to see he is more than knowledgable about Pro, even helping with community lead fixes when Elegoo was still unwilling to recognize there was an issue....the most embarrassing thing here is your comment.

[@codehustler]

wow, complaining aboit the screen while hammering and scratching it with your hand... painful to watch

[@Cloakfiend]

Wasnt a problem on the earlier model. Just making a point. I think the new screens have glass now because of this.i need a new screen obviously.