Engraving glass with a diode laser

[@FredSchmitthammer]

Great way to make sure you get your dish back from the work or family party. Great video!

[@TheClackShack]

I thought so too..

[@jerryschroeder8347]

I have used Cermark on glass for black etch

[@TheClackShack]

It works well with the right settings..

[@MarklTucson]

Very cool, turned out well. It's really a great feeling when things work with the first setting you try. Glad to hear you are going to have Brandy test at temperature to verify structural integrity. Might also want to have her make a casserole in it to verify that no issues were induced that would cause temperature gradients due to mass of material in the dish vs. the outside of the dish to cause cracking.

[@TheClackShack]

The engrave shouldn’t make that much change. The thickness of these aren’t exactly exact from the start. The Pyrex markings would make more of a difference

[@SandyKJohnsonGlassworks]

You can use rub-n-buff to color the etching. Simply rub it on and buff off. I'm a glass artisan, shouldn't have any issues with heat as you're not etching deep. I would NOT use tempered glass, as it has a skin and if that is compromised it will shatter

[@TheClackShack]

Yea, I have found that some expensive wine glasses do not like being laser engraved… yea, the melted layer is very thin.

[@kcimable]

I used to sand blast glass from Denmark which had a blue tint to it. Which would come out beautiful! Great video, thanks!!!

[@TheClackShack]

Cool, very welcome

[@Renagade3D]

Set focus to top of glass with card under glass

[@TheClackShack]

Sure

[@rwizard]

Question: Have you tried running the pan through a few cooking cycles to see if the pan and the engraving hold up to expansion and contraction?

[@TheClackShack]

No issues with mine so far

[@rwizard]

@ Good to know. As I understand it, Dow had to sell Pyrex and Corning Ware off (to the Chinese I believe) in order to cover the breast implant lawsuit judgements. Since then, it seems to me that quality has declined, certainly in my experience Corelle is not what it used to be. However, Pyxex is a low thermal expansion glass, so it is interesting that you were able to create the micro-cracking that makes up the "engraving", leaving continued usability the only remaining question. I see two areas of concern, (1) will repeated thermal cycling expand the cracking process started by the laser (2) will the micro-cracking permit ingress of foreign substances such as water, oils, or food particles. Either process could lead to anything from degrading the appearance of the engraving, to the destruction of the dish. Thanks for the video. The dish looks awesome, and it would be a great trophy for a cooking contest, or gift for someone who loves to cook.

[@TheClackShack]

@ haven’t had an issue so far

[@rwizard]

@@TheClackShack Thanks. I'm returning to lasers after several years absence. Much to learn. Your channel helps. No need to reply, just wanted express appreciation for what you are doing.

[@stephaniespivey8951]

Hi! And thank you for a great video. Any chance you could do a similar video with your xTool S1 laser?

[@TheClackShack]

I have a video using mirrors on the S1

[@Quimerateck]

oh now i get it, that spray has the same properties as shielding paint for guitars graphite paint!!

[@TheClackShack]

Ya got me..

[@naterife8871]

Wow, looks great! You are right about Cermark being pricey. 😮 Great Idea. (as always). Have a Great day.

[@TheClackShack]

It is worth it to me though.. very welcome

[@victorsimerson1095]

That pie plate I showed you I made one friend at work she has been using it over a year just fine glass plates from dollar tree are a good anniversary gift but settings will be different than Pyrex looks nice

[@TheClackShack]

Yea, if you get it right, the engrave is really just on the surface.

[@donaldb169]

Wow love it. Thanks for more great info. I have been wanting to know the settings for glass in the xtool 40w.

[@TheClackShack]

Should be similar. The layer of marking spray is key also

[@ValricoDave]

Thanks for the great video. I just tried it and am very pleased with my first attempt. I do notice a "burr" or two and was wondering if you do anything to polish them out?

[@TheClackShack]

I didn’t have any issues with mine..

[@AlteredEagle]

I have this "back of my mind feeling" We are basically creating mini fractures in the glass and I often wonder if the glass is left weakened. In most cases may not matter but in the case of a Pyrex dish that gets extremely hot then cools I would like to know the actual usage reports. When I was a young lad I remember sitting at grandma for dinner and a Pyrex dish exploded while we were eating. The best I could understand is it had a chip in it and the hot pan while cooling rapidly. Expanded then retracted... It is so thick that it blew apart. LOL I was typing while you explained some of this at the end. I love the idea I just want to be sure the "gift" doesn't become a major clean up or dangerous item. I will be trying this and maybe do a hot/cold run a few times with water to listen for that telltale creak.

[@TheClackShack]

You can burst glass that is hot or cold simply by modifying the temperature rapidly without any imperfections. Things contract and expand based on temperature. These are sold as “food storage” containers but I can say they work up to 350 just fine. The goal is to lightly mark to get the frosting, not engrave and remove material. As with all things, personal preference, if you’re not comfortable doing it, then don’t.

[@AlteredEagle]

@@TheClackShack Did not mean to sound negative just safety first. I am for sure trying this and think it is a awesome idea! I was thinking a 9" pie plate. So it will be hot. As you mentioned a light frosting may net be that bad. It tis cracks that would mater and you mentioned this in the video. Thanks for all the awesome videos!

[@TheClackShack]

@@AlteredEagle I understand, I have not had any issues with them.

[@AntonioMarie-xe5bs]

Hi! I'm training/learning before I actually buy a machine. Question: What about the top edges of the glass? Can they be etched? And any glass handles? Thanks! Great video! Eastern NC

[@TheClackShack]

Same process, yes

[@RickPMandel]

What a great idea! Thanks for this! I'd say more, but I have to do a little shopping!

[@TheClackShack]

Thanks, have fun

[@nathanwolf5547]

How do you do it? As soon as I think of a question “how would you do this?” You come up with a cool answer. Thank you buddy. Thank Brandy for me, please?

[@TheClackShack]

I am always expanding my capabilities…lol

[@Arniehd]

how do you keep it from being elongated. when etching a round drinking glass?

[@TheClackShack]

put in the correct diameter of the object. You may be seeing cylindrical distortion. If so, you can make the image slightly wider to counteract it.

[@Jayy8Bit]

Great video. Never heard of that product. Can't wait to try it out!

[@TheClackShack]

Thanks, have fun

[@haroldsworld]

Do you have a video on how you made the device that lower and raises the bed of you laser? Thank and nice video

[@TheClackShack]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/o3-XooyQac2ep6c

[@ToOldToDoThis]

Another great video and idea. Thanks as I’m learning so much on my laser journey.

[@TheClackShack]

Thanks, glad you like it

[@MMachor1126]

Just started doing glass so this timing was great! I do use chalk spray, specifically Montana brand, which does leave it more white. Have you had issues with the 300 lpcm loosing the frosted look? I had to drop to 140 lpcm to keep it from overheating the glass it appeared. Hadn't thought of doing those type of dishes, have done some small cutting boards, pilsner glasses, wine flutes, and regular drink glasses. Love the video , and find them super helpful.

[@TheClackShack]

In the past, I have found the overlapping lpi makes for a more even etch. I haven’t experimented with this particular item. I liked the first results… lol

[@magnusltd]

Another great idea! Thanks!!

[@TheClackShack]

You are so welcome!

[@sandrasherriherrington5036]

Have you tried sign makers masking tape? Just curious as I haven’t tried glass yet!

[@TheClackShack]

No, I haven’t.

[@jimnichols1155]

Great Video ! You make some very interesting things. I enjoy watching. I dabble in woodworking (bandsaw boxes, end table, scrollsaw names) and give them as gifts to family and friends. I have thought of selling some things I've made but not sure it's legal. If you use somebody else design and change it some, is it legal to sell ? Thanks, keep the videos coming !

[@TheClackShack]

As long as you put your spin on it. Lots of woodworking projects aren't patented anyway.

[@buskrat4059]

Ok let’s not just skip over how you built the adjustable height bed!

[@TheClackShack]

I have a couple of videos on the enclosure. kzbin.info/www/bejne/o3-XooyQac2ep6csi=z0S2lJm_ohVuPQaK

[@GokouZWAR]

i saw the roly on this one and was hoping you were going to do it on your lasermatic cuz that's what I have... but oh well.

[@TheClackShack]

Process is the same, both are blue diodes operated with lightburn.

[@Chucka1463]

I also have an x40 Max without the shroud. Do you have the files available for the focusing sticks?

[@TheClackShack]

I have the files but don’t think it released them. Email me and I will see what so can dig up.

[@brotegla]

As a newbie, I found the tutorial very informative and well presented. Two questions for you, though. Firstly, I have a 20 W diode, am I correct in believing that I need to up the power, decrease the speed to get a similar effect? Secondly, How do I configure my laser to shoot down incoming ICBMs? Asking for a friend.

[@TheClackShack]

You will probably need a bit more time for the laser to work (Slower speed). I have done similar with a 10 watt.. It would require a series of really expensive lenses….lol

[@rwizard]

@@brotegla I have managed to use my laser to take out attacking drones, but it is really challenging to throw a heavy object like a laser high enough and fast enough to hit the darn things, and you go through a lot of expensive lasers, because only about one in three still works after you throw it like that. I'm just glad those Houthi boys moved out of my neighborhood. Since then the only drone attacks come from some kid two blocks over, and he's just dropping water balloons on his buddies.

[@chrism7067]

Do you have a vid going over the camera set up with the d1 pro extension?

[@TheClackShack]

If you use lightburn, the process is the same for all machines.

[@chrism7067]

@@TheClackShack I see, you just need to have it high enough of course. Thanks!

[@carlaaldridge]

I’ve done the casseroles dish with cermark, mine has always engraved in black. I’ve got a 10wat laser. How do I get the frosted look using cermark ?

[@TheClackShack]

It is setting dependent. You have to run a little hotter and slower to cure the cermark, then burn it off in one pass. LPI is also needed to make the lines overlap.

[@Boneman131]

Great video. Thanks you!

[@TheClackShack]

Glad you liked it!

[@Dancopymus]

Hello friend, I have two questions: 1) Would this work on any other flat glass? 2) What would the (approximate) settings be for a xTOOL D1 10W laser? Thanks for the videos, which are very useful.

[@TheClackShack]

Glass all works similar. Settings vary from material to material

[@Dancopymus]

@@TheClackShack Ok, I asked the question about the settings for glass.

[@TheClackShack]

@@Dancopymus slow and hot, testing is best

[@Dancopymus]

@@TheClackShack Tks

[@videoscrapheap]

Realize that there are at least two types of Pyrex. It looks like you have “pyrex” which is different than “PYREX” (case matters). I suspect that the results would be different with PYREX since it is more resistant to heat hence oven safe.

[@TheClackShack]

Yep, just needed glass for this job. Found settings for it. I provided a link for the exact item, not speaking to all materials, of course.

[@justinbanks2380]

Very cool! Thanks for sharing! Have you ever tried engraving glass (or anything else) using a drag engraver on your CNC?

[@TheClackShack]

No, I haven't used a drag

[@justinbanks2380]

@@TheClackShack just curious the benefits or downside of each. I'd imagine a laser would definitely be faster, but I think a drag might be able to do something a bit uneven or material laser couldn't? IDK.

[@steveusn6852]

How do you get the finished image so light almost white. I've tried multiple different paints and the end result is always dark almost black

[@TheClackShack]

If you get the glass too hot, it can melt and bind with the paint.

[@ToOldToDoThis]

When you used the marking spray did you let it dry between coats?

[@TheClackShack]

Yes. With cermark, it only takes a couple minutes

[@angelamehrman9229]

Ok. sooooo talk to me like I am 5. What is the purpose of the paint and would you recommend using a mask like that for anything else?

[@TheClackShack]

Marking spray enables the light to interact with the surface of the material. It is made for metals and clear items

[@angelamehrman9229]

@@TheClackShack ooooooh! Thank you so much for replying. I am just starting out and am trying to learn a lot before I start. Your channel is great. Thanks for sharing your wisdom. :)

[@evgenitantikov5865]

The laser can't focus the energy on transparent materials, it goes through and reflects in all directions.

[@karenrice4703]

Can you use xtool s1 for this project?? If so, with what settings??

[@TheClackShack]

Similar, diodes require marking spray. It is a slightly different process.

[@cmdr_stretchedguy]

at first I was like 80mm/sec? That is super slow... but I am used to mm/min, so that comes through as 480 mm/min, which is still slow but sounds correct for glass.

[@TheClackShack]

It works.. Glass is tough

[@RidonaCarson]

Is there a reason why you didn’t engrave it on the inside or is it so the utensils it won’t scratch the inside

[@TheClackShack]

Yes, just in case tiny pieces of the engrave come off, they don’t end up in the food.

[@RidonaCarson]

@@TheClackShack thanks for responding

[@ValleyForged]

Great, now my Mom is going to want these too! ;p

[@TheClackShack]

You should make her one… lol

[@BeamMeUpLaserEngraving]

Nice one Clack👍 I have a question. Does a laser micro crack the glass or does it quickly heap it up to melting point?

[@TheClackShack]

Out of focus, it basically melts a really thin layer of the glass. Getting it too hot, can cause fracturing in thin glass. As soon as the marking spray is vaporized, the transparent material no longer absorbs heat from the beam. Key is the layer of cermark and focus.

[@Renagade3D]

I just place an anodised business card under the glass and this engraved fine, with zero clean up

[@TheClackShack]

cool

[@evgenitantikov5865]

Do you make correction for the depth of focus?

[@jerrykalbaugh2899]

Looks like a great item to put Thanksgiving leftovers in to send home with guests

[@TheClackShack]

Yea… or home made goodie gifts.. Thanks

[@burtgraham3689]

thank you for this tutorial - I think when I get some spare time I will give it a go. I have a question for you - the laser enclosure off your left shoulder did you make that or purchase it. If you purchased it would you mind disclosing where you got it from, secondly if you made it do you have a video of it. Any help you can give is greatly appreciated. I have an atomstack A20Pro

[@LaserHuset]

I believe that is the Creality Falcon 2 pro, the enclosure is part of the laser If you get the Atomstack B1 or the Ikeir E2 that should work for you

[@TheClackShack]

Not sure which one you are talking about but the only enclosed machine in the video should have been the Roly MK2

[@LaserHuset]

@@TheClackShack I think he is referring to the one with the completely orange enclosure to your left, that would be the right side of the screen

[@TheClackShack]

@@LaserHuset that’s the Riky MK2

[@LaserHuset]

@@TheClackShack oh okay, it looks very similar to the Creality Falcon 2 pro, I assume you have a review of that laser on your channel, I'll have to check it out at some point

[@jamesbrunk9817]

Think you could do this with a 10 watt laser?

[@TheClackShack]

Yes, with the right settings.

[@theresafarley2762]

Can you help me find a cradle for glasses and cups. I have 4240 laser. I watch you all the time and trust you. I don't want to make a mistake buying. Thank you sir

[@TheClackShack]

I am not familiar with that machine.

[@theresafarley2762]

@@TheClackShack ok thank you. Just get well soon

[@MrDmorgan52]

What concerns me is that pyrex is a silicon borate not regular glass. Also the lower case pyrex is not Grandma's PYREX. It's a lower quality Chinesium glass

[@TheClackShack]

It still works pretty well when done correctly.

[@Qwiv]

Results of the oven test?

[@TheClackShack]

I plan too but I suspect they will be fine. I do not etch them deep enough to hurt. I have engraved other glass with good results. Wine glasses are the only issue I have seen.

[@srflow2]

Do you think a 5 watt laser would work?

[@TheClackShack]

With the right settings, yes. It will be much slower though.

[@quickfixstat]

Awesome video buddy, do you worry about running at 100% power at all? Almost all YTs I see say that anything over 70 will do decent dmg to the machine, essentially ending the lifespan of the laser much faster. Awesome job, and I may make my own laser box similar to yours in that it has a lift :)

[@TheClackShack]

The lifespan of the diodes are over 10,000 hours. No need for it to out live me, time is money. I can make enough money to replace it in the time wasted running 70 percent. 70 percent is about 30 percent slower.

[@quickfixstat]

@@TheClackShack Awesome brother, that's what I was thinking as well. Glad to get that same perspective. Thank you for the reply!

[@LydiaLou-w9c]

Results from the oven test?

[@TheClackShack]

So far, so good

[@wethepeople4918]

well my first attempt did NOT work.. the pyrex shattered.. Using my Longer 40watt killed it... 80s and 90 p was not the correct combination ... Round 2.....

[@TheClackShack]

Sounds like too hot.. Bring it out of focus.

[@wethepeople4918]

@@TheClackShack i pulled it up a little more and increased the speed to 2000 so far so good will send a pic when done ..

[@wethepeople4918]

@@TheClackShack ok... changed the settings to 2000s & 80p... and it turned out GREAT... You are the man ... ill send a pic to u on FB..

[@kathymcbrair7682]

is it oven safe?

[@TheClackShack]

Is the same as it was before.

[@torowazup1]

👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😎

[@TheClackShack]

Thanks..