Ep31. Hulls, holes, and horrors

[@johnkilgour5044]

Buy. Yourself a bloody angle grinder. 80 or 40 grit paper. Get rid of all the old paint and feather the patches. Patch the holes with glass, fair and repaint. Cheers John.

[@MrRourk]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This but drill some holes. There is water trapped in there somewhere

[@dowser81]

When I saw him gouging with that die grinder my heart began to sink 😢

[@isickofit]

Tools. Proper tools. Angle grinder with flap discs, multi tool to outline. It’s going to be ok..

[@sharkfixation]

100%! Angle grinder with sanding disc. Get after it!

[@oneoldmanontheroad9034]

Quote of the day "if you don't expect to find more problems then your not a boat owner". Pure gold 😂

[@michaelmather7352]

Get a proffesional to look at it , it could have been treated for osmosis before ,whatever take all the anti- fouling off so then you can really see what,s been done , and try using a wood chisel to cut out the blisters. And get a side grinder with sanding discs for the blisters, you really need to enlarge the area around the blisters.

[@paulthew2]

I once heard a podcast from two very experienced French surveyors/boat builders and they weren't too concerned with blistering unless it was structural - which they had only seen once or twice in forty-odd years, and the damage was clearly serious, not just a little blister. They reasoned if the osmosis had been around for a couple (or more) of decades and were still small, then not to worry, esp as those boats hulls were built thick. They also spoke of many blister-infected boats traveling the world and it wasn't a problem, Whenever I see osmosis mentioned people freak out, stating it HAD to be done ASAP or death and destruction would follow. I mentioned the comments from the two Frenchmen to a friend and they panicked at the very idea of ignoring blisters. Death and destruction was the only outcome. The frenchmen (and I) could be wrong, but I do note that it's a lucrative business...something the two did highlight.

[@robinwells8879]

A friend, who studied the phenomenon at university, found that, for the most part, it is the result of poor mixing of the hardener within the resin. These pockets of hardener attempt to seek equilibrium with the water on the other side of the partially permeable gelcoat membrane. Water therefore defuses in to dilute the hardener. The pressures achieved by diffusion are staggering and easily capable of blowing the blisters. I have it on some tiny ones on my inner mouldings. Your repairs will remove the pockets and thus the problem. Your boat is old and has enormous margins of safety in the lay down thickness of the hull and so whilst ugly they shouldn’t concern you greatly. The big one looks like a poorly executed repair which as you see, can be worse than the original perhaps.

[@jamesl5149]

Hi mate. You need to take off all the antifouling to see what you're really working with. Easiest way is by grit blasting. I'd suggest eye protection when you're popping those things. If you're going to all the trouble, maybe Coppercoat is worth doing. having said that, i wouldn't bother with any of this so I take my hat off to you

[@jadams3427]

Scrape all the antifouling off with a two handerd scraper. When the paint is as thick as yours it shatters off very easily. You can then inspect the gelcoat properly. Some of the delaminations look pretty bad. You will need to replace some glass in these places. I would suggest you use biaxial glass with epoxy resin for this, but the hull needs all these areas to be exposed, cleaned and dried for a couple of months, or at least some weeks. Some of the 'blisters' may just be voids left by poor laminating in the manufacture of the hull.

[@youtubelivingonasailboat_1year]

And so it starts. I hope it goes well for you, and your bar job is working out well too. Best of luck.

[@Gardureth]

There could be water in the keel, i would drill a few holes. Youre already at it, lets do it properly. :)

[@oldjack3023]

I've never heard of osmosis blisters sinking a boat yet! but f_ ing around with a screwdriver and a hammer and a dremmel is not the way to fix this

[@nickshipman620]

You are going to want to scrape the hull ,that will tell you lots and will help point out the blisters , get a sharpie pen and ring them as you find them , you will need to remove every last bit of antifoul if you want to barrier coat the hull as it won’t stick to antifoul , you will need an angle grinder with 40or 60 grit disk on to sort out that big problem ,forget about the die grinder , that’s fine for the small blisters but that big problem you def want a angle grinder , also when you have got as many blisters as you can find you need to pressure wash the hull every few days as this will help remove the blister juice and in turn the hull will dry faster , my only concern with this boat is it might have had an osmosis job before ??? And if the whole hull is peeling off / delaminating like that patch you are going to have big problems , I would be tempted to get a screwdriver and use the handle to tap over the whole hull and see if there is and delaminating going on , before wasting anymore time , you might need to get the hull professionally peeled and if that’s the case your wasting you time doing any of this work Nick

[@grumpygitobservations]

Hi, Im in a similar position with an 82 boat that has extensive osmosis, at least it did. My Advice to you is to strip the whole bottom so you can see what's going on, the layup you were peeling off to me looks like someone never prepared the surface properly and just bodged it. there shouldn't have been any antifoul or paint underneath it. i Ground out all my blisters to the final solid layer before filling with epoxy and microfibre before sanding it down to flush. Next stage is to epoxy the whole bottom, add a layer of laminate if necessary then prime and antifoul. Take note, Chopped strand matt doesnt work with epoxy so make sure you use a woven laminate. took me about a week to strip the bottom of my 29footer and it was similar to yours when i started. Hope this helps

[@marklanders630]

See "Refit and sail" project lottie. Peeling the hull is the proper way to go here.

[@Packrat_Garage]

You know what to do bro, grind it out till the delam feathers away, and glass it back in. If you'll round the coast with a dodgey bodgey motor this is kids play, you got this.

[@tryhardfpv5351]

Don't be shy . Grind that crud all out with room to spare around it so you can see what needs doing and get it properly sorted.

[@lincolngrove2808]

Thanks for the chuckles. Good work.

[@simonhardy503]

Came past you yesterday, well sheltered overnight in Portland Marina. Now stuck in Newlyn waiting for Force 8/9 to pass through before heading north to Pwllheli. Crack on !

[@ryansroberts]

I had my 15+ years of antifouling blasted off, unknowingly along with half the old epoxy underneath then spent a lovely couple of months redoing it. Now I am a whole 2 years wiser I would just stick another coat on top and go sailing.

[@kimroberts155]

Get the underwater hull soda blasted and all previous bodged repairs and blisters will be properly revealed.

[@honeyforce996]

I don't know anything about boats. Is the carbide grinder too aggressive? I know the Sail Life channel used a planer/shaver to shave the entire hull, then lay some glass on top. I'd guess that's probably more money & time than you're interested in. I think the individual blister patches are supposed to be beveled at some specified shape? IDK - I'm sure you & the people at the yard know what to do. GL, your perseverance motivates me, ty

[@Herblay63]

Get yourself some disposable hooded overalls and nitrile gloves to protect against dust (I find the overalls can they can be reused so they aren't necessarily the expense they first appear to be). Glad to see you have a full dust mask. Tent the hull of the boat so it can dry, keep the weather off. Grind back the delamination to sound glass. Get some heat in to the tent to dry the glass in the problem areas. Glass back up using epoxy. Yes it's more expensive than polyester but its (1) stronger (2) resists the water better than polyester. Barrier coat the repair multiple times. If you really want to see what's going on then take the entire hull below the waterline back to glass... this can be a huge task and you may wish to prioritise the immediate problems and then focus on other areas of the boat that need more attention.

[@addictedtoboating9554]

I have a boat to and have spent a lot of money on it , 😢. I think sometimes you need to step back and think is this boat worth going forward with, or do you walk away and save your money and get a better boat , I hope yours is not one of them 👍

[@alexwild4350]

Lots of people suggesting Epoxy when repairing. I've an old memory, can't remember if there is an issue with Epoxy bonding to Polyester. Think there might be, and possibly this is why that fibreglass didn't bond if it was laid up with Epoxy. Moreover, for the age of this boat, is the Epoxy worth the expense when the rest of it, which has lasted what 40 plus years, is Polyester, and Polyester resin is much much cheaper. Don't for get to look in to Flo-Coat to finish the job off with. Speed is needed here, you mention you've already lost time doing extra hours at work - concerning my previous post as to how much time you haven't got [October], to get things sorted out. Get to it with a decent scraper and angle grinder to get all of the old anti foul off so you can see what is what and what needs doing.

[@mikeholt7881]

I looked at a Hurley 24/70 some years ago but was put off by the fact it had a large 'dent' on the starboard side. Seems it had fallen off the cradle at some point.........

[@WarrenJohnJewell-sf1nq]

Hello fellow fumbler bumbler!! Aye a welshman has happily found your video diary and im setrong out on a similar project luke yours. I recency boughr a 22ft snapdragon and had to let it go and start again because of rhe costs and work involved. (Sadly) but have got another 21ft Lepe in view which commands alot less work to get sailing. Jusy want to say your videos and character has given me hope above the voices that say "don't do it ". Eeehm! Nah! Im doing it anyway. Love ya bro. Im eooting for you.

[@peterreeve8663]

As well as the overalls get some gloves. That fg is itchy stuff and it’s worth protecting yersen. All the best.

[@Roxon321]

@ 19:15 Robert Paulson, love it!!

[@francoisgraf7230]

Hi Mate, two ways to repair this little osmosis problem the good and the bad way ! Remove all the old anti fouling with scrapper dig the blister until dried material 2 to 3 mm / wash the bottom water and saop flush let it dry. After week Measure water level content of the underbody let it dry until low %. Sand blister hole cover with liht epoxy mastic, sand the all bottom remove rust of the hull treat with stopping rust and then it start to cost...use anti osmosis system for example inter yachtpaint or other but important to use the different products in multiple layer and a specific primer for steel (hull) each layer type as a different color at the end cover with anti fouling keep the same brand for all product ensuring very good compatibility between them at the end i will have 7 or 8 thin layer that will built a barrier to protect it for a good amount of time and you can identify each layer by color in case of futur repair. The choice of the product family is important talk to pro. It will cost but you don't want to repeat this work twice believe me... If you cover your dried blister and put a primer and anti fouling only it will come back in 2 years more or less (blister). I did that kind of work 4 times in my life on various sailboats you need grease elbow, motivation and money ! Good luck 😉

[@polderfischer8565]

This hull needs time, hard work and money. It is doable...

[@keith800]

Yes a protective suite is a must , last time I sanded down my hull I ended up with blue hair for a week that anti foul paint dust is a devil to wash out apart from the looks I got from teenagers in Mc Donald's.

[@102roly]

What everyone else is saying, get the antifouling off with a sander or grinder, you'll find more patches of osmosis. Enjoy the smell of salt and vinegar. it's about the only positive of doing that job, other than knowing that it will be better when its done. Buy a reel of gaffer tape and tape up the wrists of the paper suits. Also, buy a tub of barrier cream and put that on first. It will stop your skin from getting the itchy rash from grp dust. Also, I found washing it off first, under cold water, stops it from getting into your pores, when you're showering when you are done. The patch you've discovered may be a rough attempt at sealing off a hole from an old skin fitting. It looks like you're close to the khazi outlet. If there isn't a bulkhead the other side of the repair, it may be there to patch up a sunken section of hull where it had once been propped too tightly, thus causing deformation of the hull. Without wishing to sound like the harbinger of doom, I'd be surprised if sitting on the hard-standing is going to get the hull dry enough for a long-lasting osmosis repair. I used to work for a company that specialised in osmosis treatment, it was done indoors and the boats were often left for days with infra-red heat lamps on them, to get the hull down to 5% moisture, which was the level required prior to 6 coats of epoxy paint at 150 microns per coat. That was after the antifouling and gellcoat had been planed off and the hull faired. Good luck and keep up the good work. 👍

[@tommurray6600]

If you are going to expo you Hull recommend that you remove antifouling with chisels or heavy duty scraper. Sanding will take forever. If you had the money easiest way is to get it sandblasted or soda blasted

[@boguing1]

Flipping heck, there are some negative people on here. It's just blisters. These boats are thick, no need to worry about structural strength. If mine I'd sand off the old afoul. My boats a similar size and I can do it in half a day. You've got much more paint and you'll need a lot of discs. Maybe two days. Start with 40 grit. Deal with the obvious blisters that emerge from under the paint. Fill with thick epoxy - someone mentioned P45, Freudian I'm sure, but I'm sure he meant P38 - don't use it, it's not waterproof. Several coats of epoxy once the filler's sanded. I tried Interprotect and the Hempel version and neither worked too well for me. I then had a chat with Julian at Antel, and decided to follow a hunch and went with their water-based epoxy. Meant for swimming pools. That has worked well, and was cheaper! You may well be getting a few more blisters each year, don't sweat it. It's lovely boat and well worth the work. As far as that peeling glass, someone else agrees that it could be connected to the seacock, I think he's onto something and added a note.

[@ianchristie2352]

You could hire a grinder for 24 hours,get your mates round and have a "grinding party".

[@robinwells8879]

The outtakes are brilliant! Comic genius!😂

[@stevewoodward7172]

I may well look you up this weekend, My other half lives in Fortuneswell on Portland and I will be there this weekend

[@naignildoi826]

I had similar on a boat I bought. I hit the hole hull with air needles.Easy to paint after.

[@tomjakobsen8110]

I hate to say it but.... Your a man who (still) try to come up with the best/perfect solution to fix most stuff so you might as well get started with blasting the entire hull with sand, glass or ice! (-; Unfortunately I do have personal experience and it hurts to see you in this situation. This problem also spread along the hull on the inside of the gelcoat and your boat is way beyond the state/age when grinding blisters is gonna fix it... Try sanding down the gelcoat in a minor area and have a look! Each blister have a thousand cousin's underneath the gelcoat.. and spreading! Your luck - finding a local company to do the blasting or rent you the equipment might be possible if you do a bit of advertising (alone or with friends)

[@oogabooga590]

It's called Refit and Sail

[@sailinggemini]

You have hard work ahead of you but I am sure with good help you will sort it , David and Helen sailing gemini 😊

[@Wyntar]

Thanks!

[@torbjornlidin656]

Dont forget to get a facemask to protect your lungs from hazardous dust.

[@tom_anderson]

😂

[@Sp3ktral22]

great video dude

[@Cat-ni6fm]

Oh my gosh, that’s a LOT of old antifouling paint. And that paint needs to come off down to the fiberglass surface so you can see the real state of your hull and before you go hammering around with a screwdriver.

[@dcallan812]

Is that "thing" on top of the boat hull OR part of the hull skin? Either way I think you need to just keep picking at it until you hit solid bonded material. A bit like picking a scab, you have to get it all off. . 😘👌 Interesting update 2x👍

[@blaaaaahhhh15]

Could that area of poorly bonded glass have anything to do with the skin fitting? Perhaps they reduced the size of the fitting and that required laying up some glass? The gel coat beneath looks like it’s been poorly keyed. Which skin fitting is it?

[@boguing1]

Agreed. Maybe moved the skin fitting and have glassed (badly) over the old hole. Or, and I can hardly believe it, but maybe the fitting was too long and the easy answer was to build the thickness up on the OUTSIDE?!

[@richarddavis4378]

Mini belt sander is great for grinding small area's.

[@GypsyTinker2012]

That bad patch may be a poorly done repair. the texture may be from the boat rubbing on rocks. Anything that can come off (delaminated) must come off. Grid it all back to good as quick as you can, then you'll see what the real issue is. Then build up, preferably with epoxy. Keep at it! ❤

[@calanmacleod3948]

Looks like someone fiberglassed over the hull to cover the osmosis.

[@glenroberts7610]

Did anyone go past asking " how long did it take to chisel that boat out of one block of fibre glass "??? 🙄

[@robertstevenson3126]

Could be wrong but did you not think about shot blasting the entire hull

[@paulcollins4932]

Just sand them off with a 40 grit flap wheel on a decent angle grinder , then let the hull dry, then fill and paint with two coats of epoxy Tar

[@timerickson7056]

My biggest fear buying a boat is blisters or dry rot . So most of the blister problem boats began in 1974.when gas prices skyrocketed epoxy and or polyester resin prices skyrocketed also . Manufacturers began getting experimental with resin formulas . But I'm not sure what years they began a more stable formula.

[@francoisgraf7230]

Normally you empty the blisters and you wash with soap (base) to remove acid before dremelling to avoid putting acid into polyesther material because it will stay inside as powder and the risk is that will come back later ????

[@aussiedronephotography7260]

That is going to be many hours of content for your Chanel. Use a grinder with a good vacume cleaner attachment and give the new fiberglass something clean to stick too

[@aussiedronephotography7260]

Flappy disks on the grinder are awsome. Small hole in the deck of my small sailboat turned into 1000hours and a year later before it got wet again

[@jeffreyoldham55]

So, work was good? Made a few extra quid, so that's a bonus, right? BTW...caught your cameo on Ship Happens.

[@Jj-ff9vq]

Have you got a moisture reading on the hull? You need it to gauge what to do.

[@bartjohnson8139]

Looks like classic deamination / blistering on an old fiberglass boat. This is no small job, and you need the proper tools to get it done before global warming floats the boat off the stands. Immediate tool acquisitions are a small right angle grinder, and flapper disks in 80 and 220 grit. Grind out the delaminated fiberglass, then feather the edges back according to the fiberglass/epoxy resin manufacturers recommendations. (I recommend the West Marine system) also talk to them about sponsorships. A very important thing to know. What is the “gel coat” that you’re going to be glassing to made of? Is it polyester, or what? This is VERY IMPORTANT! Otherwise you may do many many man hours of work, only to have the same problem. Good luck.

[@dave300m7]

If there’s any way the finances stretch to it …… get the hull shot blasted and save somewhere in the region of a million hours hard labour. All the anti-foul gone and all the blisters opened up in half a day. Find out if anyone else in the yard is being blasted and see if the company will do you in the same visit. Then you can put your efforts into the repairing and save weeks of yard costs

[@user-gt9mq3zd4w]

Might be worth getting shot blasted mate 😮 at least then you will uncover everything

[@kodiak7]

I was going to say the same. Get it blasted so you know exactly where you are at, but shot blasting maybe too aggressive.. don't know which medium is best for this situation...

[@user-gt9mq3zd4w]

@@kodiak7 your going to have to sand the blisters anyway shot blasing should remove anything loose will also uncover if there's anymore of those poorly adhered fiberglass patches but you will probably have a pitted hull after which you will have to fair :( If your going to a osmosis treatment you need to get it all off and scraping and sanding takes forever :(

[@Tarananda-mylo]

Oh dear, that looks expensive

[@ian-c.01]

I'm always very tempted to offer you advice but then I realise you are getting more advice than you can use and some of it is contradictory ! One quick scan of the comments section and I can see you are getting all the info you need but also some that you don't need, that must be confusing ! I liked the mask with filters to keep you safe but you probably discovered it was hard to breathe in and got too hot but you should always wear eye protection at the very least, eye injuries are not fun ! I loved the song for the time lapse BTW !

[@giantELF]

RE Time Lapses -- I do not know what you use for editing but if it is on your laptop most editing programs can speed up video shot at regular speed and you can adjust the speed. Just a thought as I have issues trying to figure out time lapse on my iPhone and GoPro as well.

[@daffyddavies5774]

“ can of worms “ great name for a boat .?

[@westrex5000]

That work will keep you busy, not sure why the intro outtake was repeated at the end, was it editorial?.

[@michaelhibbert4393]

You know the old saying…..B O A T…..Bring Out Another Thousand

[@jesusislord-ht1nj]

hello..how thick is your hull mate?

[@hughsleggs2632]

A repair. Any internal signs of damage?

[@DVolvoguy777-x7o]

Like others have stated Terry, angle grinder and perhaps a gelplain would be your friend. Hopefully you’ve got this handled!

[@kevinturner8343]

Seems that tool would have been a quicker way of popping the blisters than a hammer and screwdriver 🤔

[@iBradWatson]

Somebody put lipstick on a pig. 🐷 the angle grinder is your friend. If you keep using the screwdriver, you’ll find out why they covered it up. They probably hit something at one point and tried to cover it up.

[@sidewaysbonobo2107]

Is stripping away the side like you're doing not killing your boat? It doesn't look good

[@Larks01]

That looks more like a half arsed repair job rather than a manufacturing defect: looking at the location at the turn of the bilge my guess is that she's dried out and lain over on a rock or something and the owner or a yard has tried to patch it up but hasn’t prepped the surface well enough and probably did a bodge of the mix and layup as well.

[@lorrainepaulyates1116]

😂 I am REALLY not that scary ... honest. Apologies for 'hello-bombing' your vid 🤪

[@chrisreay4811]

Put your fenders away. Just like you and me, when they are out in the sun it shortens their life.

[@tonyk0756]

Buy a Lotto ticket you might get lucky.

[@peterthompson3790]

Your beard will be grey by the time you’ve fininished with a screwdriver and hammer get the whole hull sand blasted

[@david78212]

It looks more like someone tried to fix something and didn't do a great job mixing the epoxy. Light grounding maybe... It could be, but not very likely, that your boat has the dreaded "fireproof" epoxy or that's what they used to fix it with. 50 years of any boat life and really don't know what has happened in that time. Your boat is too old for the fireproof epoxy and, thankfully, they didn't use it very long.

[@oogabooga590]

Hello, nice vid! Can I recommend George The Solent Boat Butler channel who does this stuff all day and teaches you everything you need to know. Osmosis is covered too. Best of luck!

[@sasanac1]

Man, I think you are worry to much. Get in the water and enjoy the sailing.yed your prop issue needs sorting. I did fear from your first YT video that you bought a boat that was on the dock and you had not seen it in the water. Or even worse, had a sea trial it her. Mind you, solo sailing I take my hat off to you. I did my first solo sail on Wednesday. Novice sailer here to, by the way. Just get her in the water and enjoy your life man.

[@robertfontaine3650]

So many dramatic comments. Nothing here that can't be solved with an angle grinder but shot blasting would be a lot easier on the shoulders. Strip it down, dry it out, build it back up and paint it a pretty color

[@sleethmitchell]

i couldn't watch any more of that screwdriver into the hull stuff. a light hand with a flexible rotary sander will take the skin off the blisters. whatever's in them, water or acid?, will dry up. repair then. neither humans or boats are immortal. have fun, instead.

[@wilfulsprite555]

Boat survey looks cheap now.. I would not want all that work and would not be able to afford to pay someone to sort it, though I have read it over and over again that nobody knows of a boat that sank simply because of osmosis.

[@TheBeaker59]

That looks like a manufacturing fault to me which means it lasted this long your repair should last for many decades more than the rest of the boat. don't be too afraid to dig deep with your tool that hull should be reasonably thick and if you go too far its repairable but by the same token it's not the end of the world if you miss a few small blisters it's just a cosmetic issue delayed. Important bit for your repair there is only one way to go EPOXY don't listen to the numpties who still use polyester (in any form). That is why that repair has failed. After you have sanded the antifoul off and repaired and faired the hull then a good generous coat of a barrier epoxy primer over the whole boat from waterline down with no Antifoul under it. Before those coats when I believe I have scrapped and sanded it all off I wipe down with Xylene or Toluene you will be surprised how much antifoul reappears. As a tip for scrapping (first step of AF removal) then stubborn stuff can be softened with Xylene or Toluene first handy as its nice to not cover your yard Neighbours in AF dust :)

[@richardcooper4206]

Have you ever watched Sailing Magic Carpet? I can guess that Aladino wouldn't be impressed by your workmanship. He is OCD in my opinion.

[@gavinnormandale3328]

Looks like quitting smoking is going as well for you as it is for me, keep trying.

[@martinryder6910]

Seriously, I don't think this would make it across the Atlantic. Your going to need loads of P45 filler

[@pmacgowan]

Nasty 😞

[@oneoldmanontheroad9034]

There are various royalty free music sources you can use if you want music. Happy to make some suggestions if that's helpful?

[@martinglasgow2173]

Mate with money your going to throw at this repair on a cheap boat your better off walking away and starting again to find a better project boat.... It looks like a bad repair from a collision or the boats falling on its side at some point.