Mini N14 Timing Chain Replacement

[@bodgitandleggitgarage]

Another great video mate not a lot of KZbinrs with admit to their mistakes they just hide them and pretend they never happened so thumbs up for you to admitting it at the end of the day we all make mistakes were only human your videos are real and not fake like a lot of others

[@lasegundaenmiendagmail8170]

Hey, you are the best youtube channel in europe by far!

[@bodgitandleggitgarage]

lasegundaenmienda gmail thanks you

[@Oblithian]

*not a lot of mechanics/people like to admit mustakes.

[@jamespn]

Do you mean the cam to cam timing chain when you pulled the head to change the bent valves? Other than locking the cams and the crank before moving the timing chain did you set any timing marks or did you set the number one piston to TDC?

[@wobblysauce]

Stuff happens, but hopefully not a lot, and you remain profitable.

[@MrDookie2011]

Eric is awesome at bringing the viewer a detailed teardown of a great engine and simplifies the process overall. Without this detailed information people would feel lost and worried - keep up the good work.

[@ChrisNieves]

Love your videos. I just replaced the timing chain in my r53 Mini, I have the same issues with the rattle and when I opened her up there was plastic guide pieces everywhere. My chain stretched so much it was way out of time-advanced by a few teeth, Im glad I have a non interference engine because it would've been the end. While I was there I replaced the cam with a Schrick performance cam (mild). In my trials with the tensioner and removing the valve cover so many tomes I can probably do the complete job in about 2 hours wheels up wheels down-I memorized all the bolt sizes and locations :)

[@michaelblacktree]

I respect the fact that you're not afraid to admit your mistakes. We're all human. And we probably learn more from our mistakes than our successes.

[@AbdulrahmanFarg]

I’m from Egypt 🇪🇬 and I love your videos so much, thank you for all informations and tricks you provide for us, much appreciation 💜

[@ericthecarguy]

Hello Egypt! Thank you!

[@karimalaa1109]

Finally a viewer from Egypt. I am not ALONE yayyyy

[@moedalgarny]

بلحه ممكن يعتبر متابعتك ﻷريك خيانه للقوات المشلحه ههههههههههههههه

[@victweezy]

Videos like this make me happy. I feel like I'm chilling in the garage with my dad or a good friend who knows a thing or two about Mini engines. I'm a SBC and LS guy, and I know my way around an EcoTech, so it's fun to learn about these Euro 4 bangers. Thanks for what you do man.

[@nfreeman98]

I love that fact that you own your mistakes. Up until I started watching your channel I always felt like I was doing something wrong because no repair I did was ever as easy as the auto shows made it out to be. Great series, I love the little mini coopers. Wife won't let me get one because she hates the look of the center dash. Petty, I know, but what are you going to do. Thanks for the vids and instruction.

[@davidrasch3082]

This car might be a candidate for a project car for folks like me. Always good to see a mechanical expert do this type work. I look for the tools he uses to add to my list.

[@wtyrrel]

Wow.. a timing chain with a lower life expectancy than a belt. All the downsides; no upsides! More parts! More specs! Get yours today. Thank you so much, Eric, for making me happy I did not buy a Mini (or other BMW)...

[@censorshipsoldseparately612]

"Since I'm in here/while I'm in here " took me from a quick $300ish freshen up to a $1400 full rebuild

[@commodore665]

good video , I recently had the timing belts, replaced on my Alfa Romeo 156 V6 , open heart surgery looked easier . It's a very good reason to keep up with regular oil changes , that can have bearing on timing chain wear ,

[@MrHammerj1]

Love your videos. New owner of 2009 mini copper s. Arrives in few days. Needs a lot of work. Can’t wait to get it up to road worthy. Thank you so much for your knowledge. Really appreciate your videos.

[@photoshopman1972]

Oh good grief! Glad I didn’t try and get one of these! What an pain! Thanks Eric for sharing including your mishaps along the way. Shows you’re human and mistakes happen.

[@jayyoutube8790]

I am glad mistakes are made, and pointed out. It really helps those of us that couldn’t afford to make this mistake. Not everyone could be sunk into a car payment, and this repair cost ..

[@ziggassedup]

I have replaced 2 head gaskets on those Minis..One was a Supercharged Cooper S and the other was an NA powered unit...BMW wanted $6,500 to do the job...I used no cam/crank timing tools...Not a too bad of a job actually...Pretty satisfying results.

[@joemoment-o1275]

ZIGgassedUP I changed the timing chain in a D21 no specific tools. Worst part was trying to get my chain block out without needle nose

[@tomduncan1970]

Hey Zig! You wouldn't have happened to make a video... would you? Gotta love the YTGG!!! I Hope your doing well man!!

[@ziggassedup]

I think there is one somewhere Tom...Cheers mate.

[@tomduncan1970]

Have to change the Head Gasket on the Wifes 2009 Mini Clubman. Its been sitting for several months... I am not looking forward to it! She is starting to bug me.... she misses the full moonroof. Hope things are well "over the Pond"... Cheers Mate!

[@ziggassedup]

The NA one took me about 4hrs start to finish...You'll smash it out bud.

[@nijloveanugelu]

Hy Eric!My name is Nijloveanu Gelu.Y live in Romania.Here we have a lot of cars with timing chains (vw,Skoda,Fiat, Opel).When you don't see a gear key,that means that the gear lock is based on friction and pressure of the gear on to the crank face.Usualy that means that you have a strech bolt for crankshaft.That means you have to tight the crankshaft bolt not by nm but by degrees.Before you do the job carrefully inspect the data for the engine to find the correct procedure of tightening the crankshaft bolt. Ps:Strech bolt= elastic bolt.When you tighten by degrees you stretch the bolt and it is streching ,and while is heating up it is maintaining the pressure applied to the gear,head,etc.

[@johnroberts8774]

Thanks

[@isaacbrabo1489]

The torque specs for the timing chain rails are incorrect, they are in fact 14NMnot 30NM just snapped it off inside the block and now have to extract it. Double check the torque sheets before reassembly. Other than that great vid.

[@spelunkerd]

I don't understand why timing chains are designed with a complex plastic guide, that will undoubtedly become brittle with heat and time. The whole advantage to a chain is less maintenance. I really like the honest way you presented this, it is core ETCG!

[@nik12937]

Such a goofy setup for those cam and crank sprockets, I'm used to them being keyed or having a dowel pin of some sort to prevent any sort of slipping. Appreciate the video Eric!

[@trezsr]

Love the torque spec voiceover!! Those of us who know you, know you just "snugged it up to 30 Nm's" with the muscle memory torque wrench built into your right arm. Oops watched the end. Now I see why the voiceover. That was a bummer but a great teaching tool.

[@jeepmanxj]

I remember you saying that you've never seen an interference engine that broke/slipped a tooth on the belt ever damage anything. You just lived my experience. I saw the pictures over on your site. It sucks so bad.

[@thevindictive6145]

Thanks Eric, learned alot from your videos, including its ok to screw up. Most diy mechs would not start because of being afraid of screwing up. i started and i did screw up, but learned how to undo my screw up as well and now i am way better than i first started.

[@autotalon]

Hey good call on the scrubby pad, i put in a set of cams the other week and found a tiny spot of surface rust on one of the cam seal surfaces from storage. I used a 3000 grit foam sanding pad normally for detailing and smoothed it right out. It was so gentle it didnt take the discoloration away, yet felt perfectly smooth. Love the videos.

[@BigTonyGee]

Wow your voice is so calm and soothing! Thanks for the hard work and videos! Leaving your videos learning quite a bit! 🙏🏻

[@IanLandesman]

WONDERFUL Eric! Thank you for letting us know the mistakes. I'm astounded those gears are friction held only with no locating pins. Crazy!

[@IanLandesman]

@@TommyTheMooch a real shame! They don't make them like they use to. My Harley motors with keys to lock are old tech though... put that in a car and mileage isn't good enough for today.

[@cinemabunny]

Great video. 1) do not reuse the crank bolt or the cam bolts. I read where someone reused them and being used and stretched, they bottom out and do not put enough pressure on the sprockets 2) I cleaned and wiped all friction surfaces so there is zero oil between my cams and sprockets to make sure there is nothing that can get them to slip.

[@strongme80]

I just accomplished this today! Another way to perform the second stage on the crank bolt is a have a very long extension (half inch) with the breaker bar that clears the fender to turn the tool 180* in one shot. This is what I did.

[@Vandy5000]

Hi ETCG, I will admit it has been some time since I've viewed your channel. I'm still subscribed but for some reason KZbin has not shown me a single video of yours in a while. Now I'm plan to binge watch so hopefully the algorithm starts showing you again. I just thought if comment because this is the first time a channel has virtually disappeared from my feed on KZbin.

[@BiologistRyan]

This style (mini series) is a damn good format. Would enjoy seeing you continue this with other vehicles.

[@daveyboiyeah]

This is a handy video as you could use it for a lot of PSA cars too such as the 207, 208, 308, DS3, DS4 etc.

[@madjack617]

Thank you a thousand times! I managed to repair my Peugeot 207 (same engine with same issue) after watching the video a thousand times and taking precise notes (specially to avoid wrong torque procedures). Additionally, I received copies from an original Peugeot workshop manual from a friend at Peugeot and watched another very detailed video on youtube. What I found weird is, that my car ran only about 25.000 miles when the problems began, so practically new. First owner was an elderly man (father of a friend of mine). The car was always properly maintained and taken care of. After they introduced a better chain tensioner in 2009, Peugeot was advised to exchange the faulty one in older models. I suspect that in the case of my car (model year 2007), the shop just ignored this (even though the car was periodically at the shop for service) and let the former car owner drive on. They knew he doesn't drive a lot and guessed that an engine failure wouldn't occur soon. At the end he died and I took over the car with the old version of the tensioner but still running good. After about 2.000 miles the damage was done.

[@alvinwyllie8502]

Has your car got the 1.6 VTi engine? I have a whirring clicking noise from my engine in cold weather for the first couple of miles. Mine's a 2009/2010 207 CC 1.6 VTi.

[@cigarobsession]

I had a supercharged and turbocharged. When they were under warranty I loved them, especially the R56. After? Helllllll no. I would need to own a shop to keep them going.

[@spoosatron]

Great video! Couldn’t have done this without it. My upper guide had snapped at the base and was flapping around in there. Who knows for how long 😬

[@hardwurkindaddy]

Just purchased a used 07 Mini Cooper and found this video highly informative. This motor is very different than my base model 05. Thank you! Subscribed and hit the bell!

[@TheDrunkardHu]

I love your videos, and I love your emphasis on accuracy! You're the man, Eric! Thank you for sharing.

[@Jrdnsmn14]

Am I the only one that just watches his videos just to watch them. I'm interested in this stuff but I doubt ill be doing a timing chain on a mini.

[@chrisyarber3352]

Jordan Simon same

[@rowdyrick7091]

I'm bout to do it to mine

[@canabox7112]

I watched because a friend bought one and to have this and the fuel pump both done in the first month

[@itsok5079]

Someone that can not and don't have the ability or know how usually are the one to say what a piece of shit a mini is. When really they probably can't even change spark plugs or put air in there tires. Lmao and probably wish they had a mini it is a bad ass little fast car. Go drive a turbo 6 speed.

[@hammyhammell4884]

@@itsok5079 I have a 2013 turbo 6 speed, really hoping that the timing chain will be easier than this one. Does seem like a lot of work compared to my old subaru.

[@lilystewart9725]

i have a 2008 mini cooper s n14 and boy is it a pain in the butt. i love your videos and how well you explain things in depth. i also like how you admit to your faults. i believe i may need a new timing chain. i have had codes pop up for vanos problems but then it went away. along with other codes that did the same thing. i have had nothing but problems with this car and it is a high mileage car 170k that is leaking oil from passenger side.. where i couldn't tell you but i have replaced the harmonic balancer, the crank seal, thermostat (the first day i bought it) auxiliary water pump, plugs and coils and a belt tensioner that doesn't let the belt ride centered so it wears and i have a line/ridge on the edge of the belt and it is on correctly and torqued to specs. i still need to do a lot more to this such as struts, turbo rebuild, timing chain, valve cover gasket, clutch, flex pipe, o2 sensor upstream, and who knows what else that will drain my already drained pocket.. but i need a car that will get me around for now. my father was a mechanic for 40 years and wont touch another car especially this car lol and unfortunately im not able to use any of the tools or things that would benefit me to fix my car like the tools you have that are so easily available but i cant get them..lovely.. can i come work on my mini in your shop to learn more and you can even do another mini video!! wouldn't you love that.... dont worry i wouldn't either!!! minis are a pain to work on. thanks for doing these mini videos and helping me be less mad at this car and teaching me how to fix it

[@JodBronson]

Change your Oil often and make sure it is "Synthetic". Regular Oil can break down / crack things when the Engine is hot or too hot.

[@AdrianKingsleyHughes]

Just noticed that Eric is the Deadpool of auto techs in that he has several different voices ;) great video, Eric!

[@offroaddiaries]

You sir, have put out the best timing tutorial for the N14 I have seen. New subscriber and greatly appreciate such a solid lesson.

[@JodBronson]

Change your Oil often and make sure it is "Synthetic". Regular Oil can break down / crack things when the Engine is hot or too hot.

[@allanmurray647]

why are these vids so satisfying to watch!!!!!! its like AMSR of the car world

[@DarrenCoull]

Well done Eric and kudos for admitting your mistake (and how to make good) - bet the second strip down and repair was a case of Deja vu :-)

[@isaacespapa1]

Watching this guy work makes me wonder how much shit is about to fail on my R56

[@goclunker]

Start with the cooling system. Metal impeller waterpump, metal coolant line, metal thermostat and metal expansion tank. Huge difference

[@bandwagon240]

This makes me appreciate just how well engineered Japanese cars really are. Makes me want to go out and hig my Mazda and Toyota just for being so good.

[@billmaxfield7831]

Love the series Eric, i'm not a Mini fan but i can appreciate your massive skill and honesty. Damn that thing is complex!! Good luck!

[@ThatHondaChannel]

Immediately mashed the like button as you started to say chains don't stretch! Wear on the rollers!!!

[@MrWilliam.Stewart]

Good mechanic. Bad mechanicals. Another great video thank you Eric. I feel sorry for you having to work on that junk.

[@olipirard]

It must be a nightmare to do this timing chain replacement with the engine in the car. Super instructive video!

[@paddyheffernan8463]

I’ve just sheared timing chain guide lower bolt thanks to your advice on torque settings

[@tomvleeuwen]

TL;DR: USE NEW BOLTS! One thing you did not mention explicitly, but is even more important than the toque spec, is to use new bolts for the sprockets. Always. They are included in the kit for a reason. I guess it makes sense for anyone who knows how stretch bolts work, but I have seen way to to many Mini's with incorrect timing after someone re-using the bolts. The N14 engine won't show a fault code, but luckely the N12 engine shows a check engine warning when the timing is off, which has saved many engines already just in our workshop. It's a shame that the N14 doesn't have this warning.

[@tomjones8130]

Absolutly! Further one, i would change the Exhaust Sproket every time (cost just a few bucks) and would change the VANOS if it has 100K Miles on it. Look for the Peugeot VANOS, it sould cost 80 Bucks or so. And ju have to make the Surface of the Sprokets to tha Cams oil free with Break Cleaner!

[@Graham_Langley]

+Tom The fault code was how a neighbour knew his N12 needed new timing chain and tensioner set.

[@tomjones8130]

The Problem is, that in some (many?) cases there is no fault code set at the N14-Engine. But anyone who is in doubt should listen to Eric as he starts the car up in the first video. The hollow grinding noise is a very clear indicator for timing chain tensioner. Absolutly check the wear of the Chain in that case (!!!) with the special Tool (there is a youtube video on how to meassure the wear by removing the tensioner and insert the special tool, that is allthough used for pretensioning the chain with 0,6 NM on N14 before tightening the camshaft bolts after crank bolt was tightend). Dont be irritated by the unrythmic knocking noise coming from the vacuum pump sitting on the exhaust cam right before the HPFP, that knock is sadly normal, because pump and cam have no rigid connection. There is a delete mod with electric pump and machine work, look at NA Motoring Forum for more details.

[@charleschenhua]

Torque spec is important and make sure you invest in a good set of torque wrenches. I had to learn my lesson the hard way. Engine ran fine for a week after I changed the chain, then it blew up, I believe it's the improper torquing I did.

[@VR6MIKE]

Waw I genuinely never knew the N12 throws a code about the timing. Awesome! :D

[@garza7676]

Thank you for making this video . Just finished replacing my timing chain on my 2009 Mini cooper s and this video was awesome.

[@terry987654]

experience is the best teacher we all make mistakes we just have to learn from it.

[@darthvincor]

Awesome video as always. Happened to me too once, bent exhaust valves after a timing belt replacement. In my case it was because I rotated the engine the wrong way once and a timing chain (for the exhaust camshaft) jumped a few spots.

[@skwerlee]

i'm loving this series Eric. Also, i really did the angles your providing by wearing a chest mounted go-pro

[@kd1s]

Wow - very fiddly job replacing a timing chain on that engine. But what I do like - they just lock the cams and crankshaft in place then it doesn't matter where the chain or gears are.

[@monkeyfinger7949]

I've watched all the timing chain replacement videos I could find. So far, I haven't see anyone soak the timing chain in a container of oil before assembly. Wouldn't that prevent wear on first start up? Wouldn't squirting some oil on the cam gears be a good idea too?

[@micknicholls8805]

thanks eric i did my clutch and timing chain through your channel

[@jaesgarage615]

Eric, I have been watching your helpful vids for almost a year now and they're very educational. Thank you!

[@richardquinones2959]

Wow Eric by the time you're done with that car is going to be brand new nice job😎👍👍

[@bijdikh8516]

I always wondered what a failed timing chain sounded like on the R56 S. When he said it was loud on startup I said "that's normal". But jeez, my heart basically sank when I heard that rattle.

[@sollykhan2385]

AWESOME video, Eric, as ever, love your methodical procedures, have been following your channel since i was a wee lad back in the day's when i had a pet Dinosaur ,,,, 🙂,,haha!! please keep on posting more cool stuff, Bless 😇👍

[@nottherealsean]

These videos are absolutely excellent. I have been watching for a while for help with my other vehicles but the Mini series is the best! How do I send Eric a donation? Not sure how that works. - Sean

[@ruinman8722]

it's a pain in the bottom the work on this car. I'm from europe but i would never buy a car like this, they have a really bad reputation here and i can now understand why. thanks for the vid, Eric!

[@lee-he3ey]

Great vid Eric !!!!!..I'm a complete novice but I'm going to have a crack at this on the wifes 07 cooper (non s).

[@AamirZ]

Eric using Metric torque units, Beautiful! Never thought I’d see the day :D

[@bradstoybox8811]

While the design of this timing system ensures perfect timing when assembled properly, it relies on the clamping force of the bolts to keep the sprockets from slipping. That requires absurd torque values and the TTY bolts. They should have keyed at least the crank sprocket to ensure proper engagement IMHO. Nice video Eric!

[@IntrovertedArabi]

hi, i have f56 is the same way to remove the camshaft gear? just taking out cylinder head because gear has a pressing button in the middle of the nuts

[@gsmecanica]

Nice video! Question: to torque the crank bolt do you need a tool to hold the crank hub in place? Or the flywheel pin will do the job?

[@970357ers]

The mini series which has become a maxi. A metaphor for the car and my body.

[@IamMagPie]

EricTheCarGuy - great job. I don't own an R56, but an R53 MINI Cooper S. I've learned to do a lot of maintenance from KZbinrs like you, and I want to thank you for sharing your great knowledge with others. I think the R53 has more "soul" (in lack of a better word) than the R56. Try it if you get the chance. May I also ask what you use for the cleaning procedure seen at 09:24 - 09:40?

[@simonmiller6383]

Awesome...great detail very much appreciated. I am doing a timing chain and oil heat exchanger seals next week. One question,you mention that you previously loosened the bottom pulley bolt, how did you do hold the crank? There is a tool to use the three bolts and hold the crank, would like to make one of those, do you know the PCD of the three bolts? Keep the Mini and do some suspension and tuning mods :)

[@mohammadkamran5862]

Eric I wish you had an R53 for your Mini series. 👍 I love watching mini videos especially r53 because I own one and they’re helpful.

[@patriciocordova449]

I car relate Eric, I am Really looking forward to the video of you working on the head, I took the easier option to just buy another head.

[@dezdesjardins9709]

Eric, thank you. Using your video's for a very first engine removal I have pulled my done n14 engine, will be dropping in a used replacement and will switch the timing chain, oil pump and chain over from the done engine (newer parts) to the used engine? Really appreciate your videos I could not have done this without them.

[@dannymeeusen]

Beautifully explained. I need to do mine in the next few months, this is absolutely going to be my guide! Thank you @EricTheCarGuy!

[@tomjones8130]

Dear Eric, nice Job, done Timing Chain (and Valve Cover, and HPFP, and Intake Cleaning, and Breaks, and Shocks, and Turbo, and MAF, and .... much more) myself. Two things caught my Eye: 1) It looks like there is a trace of shiny Oil in the Hot Side of the Turbo (from Distance), have you checked Turbo-Seals (Hot and Cold Side)? Further on, its absolutly very important, that you change Oil Line to Turbo and Oil Line from Turbo if you loosen them. Trust me, i payed the price not doing it. 1.1) Take a look into the Catalytic Con, mine was melted on 75% of the Surface. 2) Could it be, that you gave the Timing Chain no "Pre-Tension"? Afaik, before bolting down Crankbolt and Cambolts, you have to give the Chain 7nm (not sure about the correct Torque, have two Papaers that slightly vary) Pre-Tension. In youre Timing Kit should be a Tool that looks like the Chaintensioner, but with a screw in the Middle, where you can use a Torquewrench. 3) Check PCV left (to MAF-Tube) and right (to Throttlebody). If you have oil in them, buy a new ValveCover, the Peugeot one is 1/3rd the Price (u have to expanse the small Hose a bit to fit). BTW, left is Idle-Flow, right is everything else but Idle. English is not my native language, feel free to ask. Cheers!

[@tomjones8130]

Mistake: Changed Left/Right at the End. Left (from inside the Car) is POV under Throttle, Right is at Idle.

[@tomjones8130]

PS: Eric, are you sure about the Condition of the Crankshaft-"Hub"? The Seal is very thin and i could imagine, that the Leftovers kill it very fast. Check the Peugeot Item Number, should be 10 Bucks including Crankbolt in the US (-> Fits S and JCW: 0513.E1)

[@tomjones8130]

PPS: Ignore the Bentley Manual on Crankshaft-Bolt-Torque! They state "Torque + 100°" and that is an Error. As Eric has figured out, it has to be "Torque + 180"°!

[@zollotech]

Great video.

[@CleanSC]

And this is why these cars have this reputation. This car is technically a total loss. All these repairs Eric is doing are vastly more expensive than what this car is worth. Of course in this case it's being done for our education, but what about everyone else that has to pay someone to do this? Eric, it would be interesting at the end of the series to do a cost breakdown. Show what you've paid for parts, how many hours were spent, and then a comparo of what something like this could cost at an indy shop vs. the dealer. Would be real interesting to see how expensive it gets. THAT may just be the most valuable lesson in this series -- stay the HELL away from these with high mileage unless a project is your goal.

[@tomjones8130]

Timing Chain Job with all Parts (without new Vanos Gear, but with special tool included) was around 200 Euros for me and it took around 8 Hours the first time. BMW would have charged me 1.500 Euros for the Job.

[@ralphschoder5684]

Great Video. One question. Its possible to change the seal behind the pully (See at 8:20) without loosing the Center nut?

[@tomjones8130]

Hi Eric, i remembered something else. The Fuel Line from the Tank under the Backseat (the one with Metal Fittings and Rubber Hose) to the HPFP can be opened carefully with a wrench by pressing the two plastic noses on each side, they just hold 5 Bar or something from the normal deliverey pump under the backseat. They dont have to be changed after opening/removing. The Metal Fuel Line FROM the HPFP TO the Injectors holds 150 Bar or more and that one needs to be changed after opening the holding nut over the line.

[@tomjones8130]

Done it inside the Car. You need to remove the left Engine Mount (standing in front of the Car) and lift the Engine on the left side of it (again, standing in front of it) with a Jack under the Oil pan (use Wood to distribute the weight!). Just needs to go up 5-10 cm (donno what that is in inch), but dont push to far up, because the other engine mount and drive axles dont like that a lot.

[@willyck948]

first start moment of glory spoiled by slipped timimg topped with bent valves. Learning the hard way leaves a permanent memory and reminder for next time in wich case you (and anyone else who's seen the video) will be prepared for.👍

[@KillerKenDolls9327]

You're the best. So easy to follow.

[@revmotor]

A most excellent series.

[@GarageMatters]

Most of the timing chain failure is due to the tensioner bolt losing tension. So, I would recommend to all Mini owners to pull the valve cover, inspect the top guide, and at minimum replace the tensioner around 100k miles.

[@nealie14]

I have had my tensioner back out twice in the 2 years I have owned my mini . So now I know to just replace the tensioner

[@Darksyne]

This whole series is just to show why you shouldn't own a Mini for long periods of time XD

[@pn8024]

There will be people who will want to buy mini even after all of this 😂

[@1BigDaDo]

no shit these cars are junk !!!

[@charleschenhua]

Yes, I owned one of these, lots of fun, but the French engine is junk.

[@tonysoprano9370]

Charles Hua if you service it every 6000 miles and keep oil levels up they run fine

[@mohammadkamran5862]

That’s why you buy the supercharged R53. Turbos are garbage with more complications.

[@tracydiller4492]

Great video ETCG, just keep enjoying your videos.And as always keep them coming.PEACE

[@ronwatson4902]

Another great one. Thank you Eric.

[@Audio_Simon]

Question - If the crank was pinned in position, why did the cams need tweaking to get the locking tool on? Is it due to the chain being worn?

[@samsoto1155]

I remember from part one "someone else been inside this engine b4" . This video explains who did. It was you Eric. Lol.

[@tiago_pires]

Hello Eric... Your videos are awesome and detailed. I have a question... I have one Peugeot 207 1.6 petrol (moteur code = EP6C) and I would like to know if it's the same motor than yours because I try to know which kit to timing chain I need to buy. Thanks

[@weezer1088]

Great video ! Lots of good info ! Thank you . Which year would you say has the better motors , with less timing chain issues . Thanks again

[@-DC-]

Terrible cheap flimsy components Bmw/Psa cost cut this one to the point of insanity.

[@FTsingos]

D C They always talk about how American cars are made out of plastic. American cars need to hide plastic parts in engine components.

[@Graham_Langley]

The ability to get replace the chain without taking the end of the engine is a nice idea and apparently it's a BMW thing. Problem is it's there because they know you'll have to use it. FWIW here in the UK a neighbour was charged £650 for this job a year back by MINI specialists Barkers Motor Works of Haslemere, Surrey.

[@bencrosbie]

yeah the engine is entirely psa anyways and french motors are dog shit. having both psa bmw together does spell mayhem.

[@fuckjewtube69]

Those are aftermarket parts not from BMW.

[@yoshisaurusrex3767]

Are they plastic only to save money ? Or would using metal ones cause problems ? Hard to believe that they cheap out on something this important.

[@one7decimal2eight]

I don't even have a mini but watched the whole video. always wanted to know what went into doing timing stuff on German cars.

[@lexmaximaguy8788]

pretty clever timing system. No need to remove the timing cover or in this case you cannot.

[@gyruss3239]

There was an important mistake in your installation procedure here, which probably led to the bent valves. The upper slide rail deflects the chain slightly, affecting intake/exhaust camshaft phasing. This slide needs to be installed prior to cam sprocket torquing. Also, prior to torquing the cam sprockets the pre-tensioner tool needs to be installed in the tensioner socket to eliminate all chain slack between the cams and the crank. Otherwise, the clockwise rotation when torquing the intake cam sprocket fastener could be absorbed slightly by the spring inside the tensioner, resulting in incorrect cam and crank phasing. I realize the cams are locked in place but the sprockets could rotate a bit when torquing the fasteners if any chain slack exists. Btw, love the videos, Eric! I've learned a bunch from them and just needed to help clarify that critical procedure.

[@samsoto1155]

So what you saying is to tighten down the chain guides before torquing down the sprocket to take off all slack from timing chain, right? So it goes 20nm- take slack off the chain then do the 180° ?

[@kdmq]

I would say machining a chamfer into the end of the flywheel holder would be the way to go. P.S. I'd REALLY want to see you push the two ends of the chain together to make them look the same. That way you scientifically prove that the joint pins and links are worn instead of the links are stretched longer. If my explanation makes no sense don't hesitate to reply.

[@camryle5590]

Great video Eric. But what about putting the cam shafts and the crank shaft in a correct timing ? You didn't clarify this point sufficiently

[@sigveapeland5750]

Eric - a question for you: I am replacing the timing chain on my N12 (2007 Mini Cooper) and very happy to be able to follow your instructions in the video. However; when fastening the crank bolt I seem to have a problem: I torque it to 50 Nm, but when trying to turn an additional 180 degrees, it seems impossible to do that. I am maybe able to turn 40 degrees before the bolt stops completely. I am putting a huge abount of force to it with a long pipe creating large momentum, but it simply stops. I have worked on cars for may years, and know approximately when bolts can snap, and I am really worried that it will snap or kill the treads if I add more force. I am using a new bolt that came with the timer set. You mentioned that you also had some problems - was it related to this? I will not start then engine before I am 100% certain the work is done correctly, so not being able to turn the bolt more and hearing about your engine failure makes me worried. Can you tell me a little about what you did wrong the first time?

[@Joemama555]

The kit linked to on your webpage, is that direct replacement, or does that have the longer tentsioner bolt for the moving guide? Are there kits with better/more durable plastic guides that one can get nowadays?

[@ksauto1]

Hi Eric, great video! I have a 2011 non turbo mini that the engine is making a very loud noise like a connecting rod. I saw so many people saying the timing chain makes a similar noise so I thought sure I had a timing chain/guide/tensioner problem. I pulled the valve cover and the chain seems tight and the top guide looks fine. Looking down inside from what I can see the guides there look ok. I then pulled the oil pan expecting to find pieces of the guide but perfectly clean. I checked the oil pump chain and that seems VERY loose. I dont see any kind of guide or tensioner for that? Do you know how loose yours was or what they are supposed to be?? Looks like I can move it about 3/8 inch?? Everything else looks good but man, I am afraid to even start the car because the noise is so loud. The only other thing I see is the serp belt is horrendous-probably the worst I have ever seen. Huge cracks and also many chunks of the groove missing. I am thinking of putting oil pan and valve cover back on and removing belt just to see if that could be it. I will feel pretty dumb if that is what it was. I was afraid to even run it on the lift and check for noise underneath because the noise is that bad. My luck the engine will break and the customer will say it was running when he brought it in, though he did tow it in because even he did not like the noise. Sorry for the long comment but just wondering your thoughts on oil pump chain before I put it back together. THANKS!!

[@Killerboy0428]

I do not know if you figured it already or not ;) The slack usually comes from lack of tension on cold start. (usually the spring of timing chain tensioner goes bad) then the slack help's brake the chain guides especially with old chain guides. Good word of advise is changing the tensioner once a person hears rattling on cold start :) usually that saves it . P.S. The part that was upgraded to stop the loosing of timing was the lower timing sprocket (that is on the crank )

[@tomjones8130]

But even with new Tensioner the Chain wears over time, always and even with 10K Miles Oilchange. I have seen some gone around 30K, most around 80K. I would, as Eric said, consider it a maintanance item.