How To Replace Ball Joints and Tie Rod Ends Honda Element/CRV

This is a pretty straightforward repair video. The real trick here is the method. I use a special tool that you can purchase or rent to get the job done. It makes things a lot easier, and it will allow you to do the replacement on the car, even though I remove the knuckle in this video.
If you wanted to use a Honda replacement part, this video does show you how to remove the knuckle/hub assembly so that you can do that. However, it would be a lot less expensive to just replace the ball joint as I demonstrate in this video.
Here’s a link to the Premium Member Video I mentioned of the right side replacement: www.ericthecar...
The best place for answers to your automotive questions: www.ericthecarg...
Check out the ETCG Blog for the latest info: www.ericthecar...
Check out my ETCG1 channel: / etcg1
Thanks for watching!
Discussion about this video: www.ericthecar...
Links
Powerbuilt Ball Joint Tool Kit: www.powerbuilt...
Another Ball Joint Tool: jbtoolsales.co...
Ball Joint Separator: jbtoolsales.co...
Pickle Fork: jbtoolsales.co...
DeWalt 3/8” Impact: jbtoolsales.co...
Ball Joint: www.amazon.com...
Tie Rod End: www.amazon.com...
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ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®.

[@marqgunderson1168]

Many people can fix cars well. Many people can make good instructional videos. But not many people can make good, accurate, complete, yet not-too-lengthy videos on how to perform car repair. I appreciate your dedicated work.

[@jasonmorrill8744]

Eric - this video was exactly what I needed. The lower ball joint of my '03 Element was shot and buying a $270 knuckle from the dealer wasn't going to happen. Thankfully Pepboys had the Moog ball joint and I rented their ball joint tool. Took some work, had to weld the old ball joint stub in place so it wouldn't wobble but it all worked out!

[@jacobbell6123]

"a few taps here will do the trick" *proceeds to full on smash the arm with a sledge* funny how i've been ignoring the bad lower ball joints on my crv then you post this. i was not looking forward to buying a whole new knuckle, good to know i can just press this in without much headache. great video

[@inspectorraycharles]

The ball joint on my 05 Accord have failed at 370k. After replacing them at about 200k I was looking for a possible way to do the job more efficiently than before. The first time I did them the new ones failed in a few months and one actually came loose in the knuckle. The after market ball joints I installed had no snap retainers. I installed new ones with snap rings. Now, as I collected parts for the current replacement I discovered new after market knuckles with ball joint installed for about 88.00 per side. I got new hubs and bearings for 60.00 a wheel. If everything look good I'll save time and money. New Honda knuckles are about 400.00 a side, without hubs or bearings.

[@JasonSimonSmith]

Hey for what it's worth.. just did this job on my '03 Element - using a similar ball joint/bearing press tool - and you can remove the end of the threaded 'pusher' part - so it becomes a 'sleeve' over the end of the lower part of the ball joint. In any event, thank you Eric for the content you put out.. has saved me thousands in repair work .. being empowered to do it myself.. Cheers from Wisconsin !

[@lucasdeby8173]

Great video! I replaced my 2006 Honda CRV; lower ball joints, tie-rod ends and struts. This video helped me to get the job done, thank you!

[@roberttaylor7732]

Thanks, Eric! I don’t have a vice, so I bolted the knuckle to the brake rotor and stepped on it. Ball joint was out and new one installed in like 5 min.

[@jeff3741]

I borrowed a press from Advanced the first time. The second time I needed a press, I purchased one from ebay for $39. I've since used it not only on ball joints but u-joints as well. It's nice having it on hand. Excellent video!

[@Dancooper241]

Do you have the le link of the press you bought? Thanks

[@systemloading6875]

www.ebay.com/itm/4-IN-1-BALL-JOINT-SERVICE-KIT-w-C-FRAME-PRESS-TRUCK-BRAKE-PIN-REMOVER-INSTALLER/201311111763?

[@uggadugga8070]

Or this: Sp Tools 68600A

[@jeff3741]

www.ebay.com/itm/390613756990?hash=item5af264ec3e

[@bobdmighty]

I have the same kit, but can't seem to get the top cup centered around the top of the ball joint to get it out. There's a lip where the axle connected that is in the way. Thoughts?

[@steffydog]

Boom, back to the good old days, a repair..............yay...Nice one ETCG

[@jfeeble]

You've kept my 04 crv healthy for years. Thought it was time to say thanks for this series.

[@zeroised9995]

Great video Eric. Always useful to those of us trying to keep a Honda of that generation on the road. Those sensors are an absolute PITA. While changing out the bearings I had the bolt heads snap right off both front sensors. I've completely given up removing them while doing work and even went as far as notching out a press plate so I could press out the remaining two rear bearings with the sensor staying in place.

[@Regal_Civic]

Thank you Eric as always your videos are the best on KZbin you are a professional in film and mechanics . I don't even own this model or vintage Honda but I'm watching this video to learn about replacing ball joints.

[@inazuma-750-w]

Eric brilliant video, told to go and buy a complete control arm by my garage only to see your video showing that the ball joint is attached to the hub casting assy,you saved me a few quid there, you are very clear and great communication thro the video,thanks bud, Chris, worcestershire uk.

[@beaudavenport9728]

Super helpful video. My ball joint wouldn't budge, even using that remover tool from the auto store. I ended up (very carefully) beating it out with a hammer. One of the very few times where brute force did the trick.

[@everydayfixer8446]

if you do not have impact tools, you can also get a second person to hold down the break pedal while you use a breaker bar on the axle nut.

[@NOXXism]

or just stuff a thick screwdriver in the disc cooling slots in the caliper and that does the trick too

[@deseremere]

God bless you, Eric, very helpful. Got brave enough after watching your videos and did my CR-V ball joint today. Rented the tool from Advanced auto, but had to buy impact wrench from Harbor Freight - spinning it with breaker bar was not working for me . My 5 gallon compressor is good enough to make it run for 20 sec, and it was all what was needed! Thank you very much, Sir.

[@mr.nobody9630]

Eric is getting his old swagger back with every repair being done excellent video. A + Rating Keep up the good work.

[@5280]

Did the ball joint job in my one car garage yesterday. Couple of tips to add to the great video: 1. If you don't have a lift, you have to get the car up really high on the jack-stands, in order to get the ball joint press to fit between the steering knuckle and floor of the garage (don't plan on getting an impact under there, you will have to wrench it and I recommend a large cresent wrench for a perfect fit on the press' rod). 2. I couldn't get the castle nut on balljoint rod approach to work in order to remove the old ball joint. It kept slipping. Nor did the air-hammer approach work (by-itself, I did have success starting with a press and punching out with the air-hammer). Instead I put an deep impact socket over the ball-joint rod at the bottom. It was just barely long enough to hold the ball joint threaded rod also also fit onto the balljoint housing to push. With the shallow a-symmetrical receiving cup from the press kit I was able to get both ball-joints out on the first try. 3. Putting the new ball joint in was straight forward as Eric shows. However keep in mind when you're not using an impact, you have to wrench this thing. And it takes hundreds of pounds of force on the wrench even when you have the press setup to apply equal pressure. In my one car garage- I was able to brace my back against a wall, put a foot against the hub to hold it steady, and pull as hard as I could. I don't know how I could have done it otherwise. 4. Lastly, you have to press the balljoint in and turn that wrench until it literally will not turn anymore, even with a helper pipe on the end of the wrench, that's how you know its fully seated and the snap-ring will fit in its place.

[@unknowableknown8070]

anyone ever tell you you have the same domineer as george clooney, very plesent to watch you work and you never get mad.

[@fernandomadrid1986]

I have learned a lot from your videos Eric. Thank you one of many loyal viewers.....

[@aaronruiz9397]

Yeah me too!!

[@JazzyJasTruckingzz]

Its actually really great to watch this because I haven't worked around a ball joint in a while

[@travismcallister417]

More videos like this please 😃

[@ericthecarguy]

Thanks for the input.

[@rk22cc]

no more Fairmount BS

[@coreebrecker1983]

rk22cc give Eric a break

[@jtl909]

Thanks, Eric!!! I've been meaning to replace these and I was praying that someday you'd snap out of your Fairmont malaise and shoot a video. You are so so great!

[@ms63nospam]

This video was very helpful as I am having to replace the lower control arm, the strut assembly and some other things after my mother crashed her car into a curb. The axle nut is 36mm, and I got lucky and had no problem getting the abs sensor out of the knuckle. One issue that I had is that I did not "Unstake" the axle nut before I hit it with the impact wrench. It came off fine, but it must have buggered the axle threads, cause I didn't smash the crap out of the end of the axle while removing it from the knuckle. I was very careful to not pound away on the axle but the old axle nut (Which I would replace anyway), does not wanna go back on and I am not going to force it or cross thread it. I have no problem replacing the cv axle if need be and I am going to try and clean up the axle threads I have before I do go that route. The only thing that could gave buggered the threads is the "Unstaked" axle nut. Just an FYI for those that have to do this work.

[@AlextheguitarFreak]

thank you so much for this video! it couldn't have come at a better time, i have a 2003 Honda CR-V and it needs both of these parts replaced, now i'm not going into the repair hoping there is no technical details that i don't know of that will make this near impossible to do. In other words thanks for the confidence boost!

[@carlyleroberts3995]

Top notch video Eric! I have 2006 Honda CR-V and a 2001 Civic, they both use identical ball joints, so I purchase genuine Honda ball joints for the Civic and use them on the CRV, since they are not sold as individual parts for the CRV. Thanks for the links to the tool.

[@ancientsociety653]

Thank you for that gem of knowledge

[@tawidave7092]

This is like the old ETCG. Edit: That's not a bad thing, Internet. Calm down.

[@kennyfisher7511]

Thanks for taking the time to produce theses videos. Very informative and useful.

[@loganfs5640]

Thanks again for doing what you do. I have been watching your videos for quite some time and you have saved me lots of money.

[@railroaded1991]

Hey thanks for showing the proper method for getting the tapered shaft out of the lower A arm and tie rod ends. Ive used that method for 50 years without one failure. Viewed another vid by another "car guy" just before yours, won't name him but if you see it you'll get a real good laugh as did I. He used a pickle fork, beat the holey hell out of it to no avail 😂 had to use another method, finally did get it. Showed us all how having that pickle fork since he was 17 made him stupid.😅 The only thing I'd suggest for you is to use the pry bar to put a bit of tension pulling the parts away from one another while whacking, using this method results in having to only whack once or twice. Also use a Ford hammer (3 pounder.) Note too, that using Dot 3 brake fluid works well as penetrant and can be washed off with water if it's being used around items as brake shoes or pads being reused.

[@colinaglae2605]

Thanx again Eric, always brilliant, updated & well presented !!

[@Asdayasman]

HELL yeah this is why I subscribed to you in the first place.

[@davebenoit8208]

Thanks for the info helped me out alot! I did a 06 honda Cr-V Keep up the good work and videos !!!

[@shawngarcia8713]

Best Honda/Acura DIY videos out there, Thanks for the help Eric!!

[@lrdisco2005]

Welcome back Eric, we missed you. Just like the way it used to be.

[@Rickm2003]

very informative! l have used the press tool, it is a life changer, but l also have compressed air, you actually helped me decide whether to get electric or air tools when l started my tool buying. Electric is hoseless, but you cant compare the power (if you on a budget). sure go spend 500 on a snap on or milwalkee electric impact, but i got a 300$ craftsman air compressor kit and it came with a crap gun, so l bought a aircat, and havent had a nut it could not remove!

[@ericthecarguy]

The only issue you might run into is when running a grinder. Otherwise, you're good to go. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bYvdaoaBiK2rfMk

[@Dillithium]

Excellent repair video. I don't know if I missed it, but don't forget to lubricate the thread of the C-clamp press! Especially when using an impact gun.

[@ericthecarguy]

I didn't show it in the video, but yes, that's a very good point.

[@Mr.Unacceptable]

My son bought a Honda Accord. They have a part they call a resistor that fits in the A/C - heater system. It's there to set the temperature so that the A/C and heater are not fighting each other. They charge $130 for this part. It's a heat sink with a Mosfet and a sand fuse stuck to it. You can rebuild these for about $4 . You have to buy enough parts to repair 5 though. The mosfet is from the 1970's Honda Trail 90 and can be found on Ebay. The sand fuse can also be easily found. Don't buy new ones just rebuild the old ones. Collect the dead ones for rebuilding. If I could get enough of them I rebuild them and sell them. I have tested this rebuild and it works.

[@sw96]

Reminds me of my Saab, a common fault is the info display and/or AC display dropping pixels from their LCDs, now you can still by new units for $300-500 or you can buy a $10-15 ribbon cable which 99% of the time will fix the problem. Mine was so bad the LCD displayed nothing at all, took 30 min to repair (and that was me learning how to do it), 15 months later and it still works flawlessly.

[@michaelkenyon3372]

More element videos please. I have an 03 will under 100k, but its been through some life. I think it was at the jersey shore for a bit... the nuts under the fuel door have rust. Couldn't get a bolt out for rear shocks, battery nuts were all dickered up. This summer I'll be doing the stuff in your previous videos for the major service. And there is a high pitched rattle when I start it. I am guessing its exhaust related. All kinds of fun stuff. Oh and it gets used well up here in the high desert. I can't afford blizzaks, yet, but its still gone through some serious snow. Managed to high center it a few times. And it's had some off road desert adventures. Love this car. It's awkward, and kind of out of date, but its great. I transported almost a full pallet of soil for a farmer friend without taking the seats out. Do that with anything else. And its a road trip beast, just keep it under 70 or fuel economy is crap if you drive in to a wind. Its a fun car, especially in my area.

[@geogmz8277]

LOL I was watching RCR channel where is forester need a low control arm replacement and this was the second video recommended by KZbin I guess the algorithms are working today

[@ericthecarguy]

About time.

[@NINJA4RL]

rented that exact set from advance for ball joints on an explorer. it worked and no major complaints even though it was missing parts but having used both, if i were to buy a kit, it would definitely be OTC. just my $.02

[@aaronruiz9397]

Dude you make it look easy! But your very informative I've got an 03 element project car ! Just did the hvac light bulbs thanks!

[@jakegackle7398]

At one point you mention 7/8" is a 19mm. 7/8" is actually a 22mm for anyone trying to do this at home. 19mm is a 3/4". Running in for wrenches can be a pain. Keep up the good videos though. Informative.

[@joubess]

I'm glad I have a gen 1 CR-V. Working on the knuckle and ball joints is more straight forward, but the damn thing ways a lot more. Removing the old ball joint could be done using an impact socket that fits to edge of the ball joint and hammer it out from the fastener direction, while clamped in a vice.

[@wolf1221d]

I didn't realize that you had cut your teeth on Honda's. I also now realize how useful your videos will be now that I am working in a Honda dealership.

[@jdmeaux]

I found that the best way is to pre-lubricate all nuts for a day or two BEFORE you start your work if you are at the house doing the work. Spray that penetrating oil liberally on each one sand let it sit. By day two it will come off without too much problem. Even those axle nuts that the last idiot tightened to 180 Ft. Lbs. I've rebuilt the front end suspension twice in the last 10 years on my Crown Vic using this pre-soak method at home on a carport. I utilized sockets and wrenches varying from 1/4" to 3/4" drive to do my work and a big heavy duty C-clamp for removing sand installing the ball joint. JD

[@InsideOfMyOwnMind]

The best liquids for loosening rusty bolts is a stoichiometric mix of oxygen and acetylene.

[@jdmeaux]

Only use heat as a last resort. Rubber and plastic does not like too much heat.

[@dannynica7480]

what kind or size of c clamp do you have???? It is funny that you said: "the last idiot tightened to 180 Ft. Lbs." In reality he is not idiot since my honda crv calls for 181 ft lb LOL

[@tomcraigmatthews9300]

Thanks for a straight forward video and excellent graphics. Easy to follow and understand. Love that penetrating oil and anti-seize tip. it Works!

[@hanskinslo326]

Thanks, Eric! We appreciate you!

[@ericthecarguy]

I appreciate you!

[@miker.5495]

Hey Eric thanks for the excellent instruction as always. What aftermarket brands do you trust and use in your Hondas?

[@Heath3250]

Glad your back man! Love your repair videos like the good ole days. Keep them coming.

[@iPervy]

Very helpful Eric! Haha I know I'll be doing this to my rides pretty soon, and this made me feel far more confident in doing it myself next time around.

[@jonathankuhn483]

Great stuff sir! Always love seeing new vids on your channel!

[@MikeyOwnz]

did this same job on my 04 honda crv also yes you can do it without impact as long as you got a braker bar you'll be fine also for me i rented the remover tool from o'reillys

[@NTromb]

Great job Eric I myself just picked up a 2005 CRV ex That had a blown motor for $400 and it up putting a JDM KA 24And that and other than that I have been driving it but I haven’t for bid I either got to do swaybar and links strike plates are bearing plates or whatever the hell you want to call them or ball joints... And the last always fun I’m just waiting for to warm up a little bit so I don’t have to sit in crawl around on the garage floor even though the garage is heated the floor is still freezing

[@kevinhamling4675]

G'day Kevin from Australia. Just recently found your channel and thoughly enjoy it. Great content A+ 👍

[@hoodheisenberg]

awesome video. torque specs, ball joint pre load etc would be nice topics to discuss

[@shnobi24]

I have the same tool for my 04 Jeep TJ. Works great and I don't have to remove the knuckle.

[@bossdog1480]

Always good lucid explanations as to what he's doing.

[@Humance]

Old ETCG is gold!

[@stevepuddlejumperpilot6062]

getting ready to do my lower ball joints on my CRV. This video really helped!! Thank you!!

[@bashafacin]

Glad your back Eric, we need more videos like this!

[@alinutzalin6346]

An air tool actually saves you hours of work. It's a must tool for a mechanic. I would say it's also worth buying even if you're only working on your own car. Space is the only issue tho.

[@sebastianholmes5020]

Halfway through one side and my control arms just wouldn’t separate from the ball joint. Was replacing them anyway but made separating the ball joint all that more difficult. Trying some things out in the morning but 4 and a half hours in rn and hoping the other side can go better. Currently in phase of repressing the ball joint in

[@stevemanleycbg.5232]

This is great thank you. One of my ball joints on crv is realy bad. Haynes manual says cant be replaced you have to buy complete unit! They must have done a deal with honda.

[@skaddict666]

thank you so much for your videos. I just replaced the ball joint and lower control arm of my 2006 CRV

[@jermainealford469]

You go Eric you the man you inspire me to be a auto tech i hope i be like you 1 day 😊

[@cory8791]

Great vid!!! I add some grease too tie rod/ball joint before install its kind of like adding air to a bicycle tube to keep from pinching the tube or boot in this instance.

[@ericthecarguy]

I did it after, but I suppose it's a matter of preference.

[@galvaable]

Really enjoy watching these type of videos, hope to see more like this.

[@polarbear6854]

Always making things look easy

[@robertbrandywine]

I just removed the two big bolts that he said were 19 mm. The bolt is 19 mm but the nuts are 22 mm.

[@dilanjey6550]

YES WE WANT MORE ETCG VIDEOS LIKE THIS!

[@oscarmejia7340]

Thank you so much Eric i always watch all your videos.

[@HotRod-wv4vm]

I need to do the to my 2004 Element. Dealer wants $646 for both sides. You are absolutely right they don’t sell the ball joints by themselves. You need to buy the steering knuckle. Which do recommend for ball joints or should I just let the dealer install them. Local mechanic will charge me $75 per side and I supply the ball joints. Thanks

[@goofy170]

Cool video Eric, hope to see you upload more on KZbin!

[@Ghostinthedark100]

You make this look so easy. Great video

[@timwade2767]

Eric, I'm impressed! You always had great technical content but your videos weren't focused enough--it took too long to get to the real information that the video was about, so I quit watching your stuff quite a while ago. If this is indicative of what you're putting out now, I'll be seeing more. Keep up the good work!

[@zx8401ztv]

Smashing job :-D, Ready for alignment to be done. ' The right tools do make the job better, your early years were a struggle. I'm chuffed that you have great tools now, but the old hammer still works well lol.

[@ericthecarguy]

I love that old hammer. I'll never get rid of it.

[@zx8401ztv]

Oh yes, i know that very well :-D No extra reply needed.

[@v-gc7257]

Impressive Eric. Ice tutorial

[@Dethred1]

Another way of popping the lower ball joint from the lower control arm is to put the nut on backwards, put a flat block of wood against it, and Jack it up from the bottom (if the car is on the ground). The spring pressure from the suspension will push back and force the ball joint out of the LCA.

[@HaythamBuKhadra]

Eric, does having a lift make it easier to work on cars ?

[@sw96]

In a word... Yes. In more words... Hell Yes! For anything that requires you to be under the car it gives you so much more working room compared to ~2 feet you usually get from having the car on stands, even things like suspension and brake work is easier as you can work at a standing height rather than sitting/squatting.

[@brockdickens9387]

What do u think?? Smh lol

[@chrisgiuliano7193]

Gotta be so nice for leverage

[@jd5179]

Eric is back yo!

[@petarvelev5663]

Don't hit on the nut, use the empty holes which are designed for doing this, just put the right size bolt and it will push it out.

[@zandazanda2512]

Great job, and a lot of great tips

[@GuntherSnaps]

How I do it is just using a cutoff wheel to chop the old balljoint down and then use my ball joint removal tool. But recently I've learned you can just take your hammer and smash smash and they come out pretty easily. either way, it's so much easier to just chop off the moving part and then press it out.

[@zmanvideo1]

love how the Fairmont looks stock! ;)

[@steventaylor5687]

Come on Eric, I didn't hear you say "CLICK" when you put the hub nut back on, lol. Remember viewers torque to factory spec ;-)

[@Tool0GT92]

185 front and 134 back I believe .

[@MrTPoops]

AvE

[@27JASKO]

the MOST important tip is to watch video BEFORE FUp and remove the rubber boot before pressing lower ball joint. I thought boot would just slip thru while pressing but boot ring got pinched and ruined boot. now I need to buy boot replace kit. also people suggest using zip tie boot rather than fussing with metal ring

[@georgegulden5819]

I replaced both the control arms, Stabilizer links and ball joints as well as the outer and inner tie rods on my son’s 2005 Element after he slid sideways into a curb and bent the control arm on the passenger side. After all this work the passenger side has positive camber and the driver side is spot on. I was able to align the car using the string method. What do you think is causing this? I tightened the control arm with the arm fully loaded.

[@AvocaSingleTrack]

You should own a Toyota ...honda used to be good but they are not what they once were. Great video's, love the channel !

[@fadi_koka]

Eric what I do I cut the ball joint thread flat with ball joint and I press it it won’t move and you can done this in the car and it shorter plus saving time now you don’t have to put deep receiver Try it thanks

[@ariesr4883]

Gotta love those stubby impacts!!!

[@christophergrubb3856]

Is this an old video, that wasn't previously released, as the Fairmont still appears to have its old steelies and wheel trims fitted.

[@necessaryevil455]

PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE 3/4 In. Ball Joint Separator $19.00 at Harbor freight worked great.

[@migraineur]

Just one thing....... thank you. In the middle of doing my 01 CR-V.

[@georgebonney90]

I do have a crv of the same vintage thx Mr.Car Guy

[@rodneysmith247]

Hey Eric what were the symptoms that lead to changing out the part? Always enjoy all your videos. If I have a rubbing sound in the front end when I turn left at a 45° angle will greasing any fitting help? Ever think of moving to San Diego? 🙂 great video 👍

[@gideonchadwick805]

Ha! I second this comment! I have a loud one-time popping noise on turning or going over some bumps. Wondering if this is kinda what was happening with your element and lead to this repair. Cheers!

[@erow80]

Same issue here. Did you ever figure out what was causing it?

[@michaelblacktree]

One of the 'joys' of owning a German car: My Jetta uses wheel bolts instead of studs and lug nuts. Plus the brake rotors aren't hub-centric. Let me tell you, that can be a huge PITA. So in my case, rotor alignment screws saved what's left of my sanity.

[@miami1393]

Glad to have you back in full gear. I know these were from the collection you've had but still relevant. If the inner rod has play (I can pull it slightly and push it back in), do I have to replace the entire rack & pinion or can I just fix the inner rod?

[@JamesDownes]

Lovely work Eric.

[@kipster-ll6po]

Great video!! I think my car needs this too, but how can I know for sure?

[@CKilger12]

i think i ended up using a socket over the threaded end when removing my ball joints from my CRV......it wasnt bad doing them on the car at all