Everything is a prototype

[@shaunboydmadethis]

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[@dennisrogers1387]

split the lamp in half long wise behind the darker band, then space the top half and lower half far enough apart that your LEDs will be recessed so it looks smooth, this will also force the light to reflect off the center panel.. your art form is amazing, truly inspiring.. please keep pushing your designs.. thank you for all that you do.

[@Fr0stbyte89]

I immediately thought this and came to the comments to see if anyone else had the same idea. Great minds, am I right? 😅

[@DickvanZanten]

​​@@Fr0stbyte89 Yep. I immediately thought " Rout a channel in the dark band for the LED and hey, presto!" Does the exact same thing.....

[@jbbresers]

Just commenting to boost this higher as I had the same thought. LED lights just look better when they are recessed into a channel and a router won't get into the curves so cutting the big piece in half and using the accent wood as a structural element to hold them together is the way to go. I would also consider using a blind dovetail or rebate joint at the top for the cross pieces to avoid using plugs but that's getting very fancy. Overall I love it.

[@mrboics]

Yep. This is the way forward. Recess and indirect light for LEDs. Also ensure one uses enough density so that individual lights are not discernable.

[@cdlong28]

My original thought was to route a channel to recess the LEDs, partly because I thought there were multiple levels of strips and they wouldn't be the full depth of the wood, but this idea works too. You could split the inner layers of the bent lamination for the grooves on the ends. As they say, there's always more than one way to accomplish something. Also, I'm pretty sure white acrylic is a thing and would be easier than making an epoxy sheet.

[@RealLex]

Despite you not liking the LED guts the view from almost every angle looks great! Well done Shaun!

[@shaunboydmadethis]

Appreciate it! And you're right!

[@GWAIHIRKV]

I did have thought Shaun. Why not route a channel in the inside in the centre- the thick bit - inset the LED’s and cover with a directional diffuser. It would then shine onto the centre and not be visible from below. Still a great build👍

[@shaunboydmadethis]

Definitely a good idea, and something I considered. But honestly by the time I realized the issues, the lamp was too far along to make any big changes like that. Maybe if I ever get around to making a new version!

[@GWAIHIRKV]

@@shaunboydmadethis: I understand you could have pressure to leave it in place, it’s only 6 screws to take the centre out and a bit of router work🤔. Maybe🤭. Will follow with interest. . .

[@MattGilliesCwnAnnwn]

The curved ends would be a problem. Cut it in half. Mount the light channel in the middle, cover the outside with the accent bar. Lights and wires would be recessed.

[@readeral]

@@shaunboydmadethisplease do and then make plans! This is too good not to.

[@readeral]

@@MattGilliesCwnAnnwnthe solution is to plan ahead and basically build the groove into the lamination process. Start with two thinner strips, aided by a raised portion in the form for alignment, and then once thick enough move to the full width strips

[@MarkFaasen]

I highly recommend getting thin, self adhesive COB Led strips, and doing multiple loops across the inside. They are super pretty and even when you look at them directly, it looks like a continuous glowing string without any cables or fixtures etc.

[@banjohat]

Came here to say this - COB strips! You have all the tools - so you could get the super thin ones (2.7mm) and use a router to make a groove for it on the inside. It will also fit nicely on the curved pieces.

[@TheHamPimp]

I concur. I'd go one step further and embed a thin aluminum channel for the COBs, and you could even put a frosted diffuser on them if you like. They make channel/diffuser kits that are only 3/8" deep, so that would look very trick! The aluminum would add some polish and help with heat.

[@NewNormac]

Felt potential disaster awaiting as soon as the project idea was presented, immediately I questioned “how is Shaun ever gonna lay on a light?“ ~Smile oN

[@shaunboydmadethis]

Haha, I always figure out a way!

[@Wheel_Horse]

Caulking tip for you Shaun: Instead of 'dragging' the caulking tip, and having to go back and tool with your finger, instead, PUSH the tip along while applying the caulk. Watch carefully as you go and don't apply too much caulk. Practice with this technique a bit and you'll (almost) never have to tool a caulk joint again.

[@Wheel_Horse]

@@GolfDropout Sorry, I don't have that ability. Would if I could though! It's pretty easy though, just push the caulk out ahead of the tip as you push the gun forward.

[@Wheel_Horse]

@@GolfDropout Don't have the ability to do the video upload, sorry. Of course I can do the technique, been using it for decades. It's so easy though, it really doesn't need a video. Just push instead of drag!

[@JBLewis]

@@GolfDropout Checkout Modustrial Maker, he has a number of videos making molds for concrete but it's a similar process. He uses a ball-ended tool commonly using in cake decoration to form the fillet in the silicone.

[@christopherbennett6916]

Shaun I have a fix for this light fixture. Inside flat screen TVs there are sheets that cover the LEDs that backlight the screen. The sheets diffuse the light. If you installed a thin sill of sorts above and below the led stops you would now a piece in between the sills and would completely cover the LEDs on the long portions. You could probably do the same around the curves on the end of it was accordion folded then bowed. Just an idea I thought I’d suggest. Regardless the fixture came out amazing.

[@jenford7078]

That is an amazing light! And I personally have had dozens of light fixtures over tables and have rarely sat under them looking up at the working parts, it really is that view in the room we look at along with the quality of the light it gives. I say you nailed this.

[@shaunboydmadethis]

I appreciate hearing that! I sit below it and stare straight up at it now haha!

[@keithklein4538]

Hi Shaun, I absolutely love this design! If I ever make a light like this, your design will be a strong contender. I have a possible solution for your love/hate relationship with this though. It’s something I came up with when retro-fitting an art deco hanging lamp in my dining room. I didn’t want to destroy an antique fixture, but at the same time looking up at the lights inside it was not an aesthetically pleasing experience. So I ordered a sheet of quarter inch frosted polycarbonate (Lexan?) and cut it to fit just inside the perimeter of the lamp. You could do the same and suspend it from the cross bars with (insert favorite method here) I used thin brass strips which matched the brass from which the lamp was made. You would need to cut a slot in the plastic for the epoxy to stick out. But eminently do-able. As I see it there is no need to make a second lamp, just « finish » this one! In case you are wondering, frosted polycarbonate glows nicely when lit from behind. Hope you find this interesting, or even useful. Cheers, Keith

[@shaunboydmadethis]

Ah, that's a good idea! Thanks!

[@keithklein4538]

@@shaunboydmadethis You are most welcome. Not so incidentally, your lamp has an art deco esthetic I admire. Did I say I liked the design? Cheers

[@mattelias721]

Shaun, @keithklein4538 pretty much nailed what I scrolled down to comment on. I'd add that if you want it even faster (and maybe cheaper), go you your fave box store (orange or blue) and pick up an 1/8th inch sheet of Lexan, cut to fit as Keith said, and then sand one or both sides with about P220... instant frosting, no added $$. Also, the 1/8" would be lighter, if that's an issue. I've done this myself with some home built-ins, works great. BTW, I dig that lamp too. Definitely not vomitous.

[@NikLindsey2050]

4:00 boiling a pot of water and then dunking the peices into the water makes the wood more flexible I had to do a project and I did this to make some curves 5:48 if you scale this up a little bit you can turn it into a coffee table or a media table. Mabey next project idea? Also a possible way to make it so you can't see the lights is get some semi non see throught plexi glass or something of the sorts and glue it to the inside of it

[@AcrimoniousMirth]

You can get flexible sealed LED tubes which are 10mm deep and 5mm wide and very bright, we use them on our yachts. Make a groove round the inside and place the light there. Personally what I’d do is once the main curved “pill” is made, cut it down the middle so you have two pills. The accent piece bridges the cut, which you space out by 5mm for the LED strip, and provides the structure to hold it all together.

[@jaykepley5238]

You're a great storyteller (and woodworker)! Happy holidays. I hope 2024 is a great year for you and your family.

[@shaunboydmadethis]

Thanks Jay! Same to you!

[@SideKickStudios]

A beautiful light fixture! I work with LEDs daily, so i would say first, always recess your strips, secondly, for indoor use, you don't need the silicone or rubber covered strips, those are designed for outdoor use, for splash protection etc. Indoors, you can go with plain strips, they are thinner and also, to plug them up, solder your leads using finer cable. You can also use LED channels in your recesses to add your diffusion cover. Overall, a great end product, just minor adjustments needed, which you can technically do (minus the recess). I would replace the bulky strips with the thinner ones and replace the plastic channels with nice aluminium ones for cleaner aesthetics, so even if you look inside, it still looks sophisticated 😊

[@gerardlochmans589]

May I suggest the following.... de-montage the white epoxy panel ..plane the top edge really plane and sand as smooth as possible (by hand NOT with Your Mirka!) ..then place on this "edge" a strip of LED lighting ( check if the lighting needs more oumpf or not) ...when this gives You suffient light on the table, I am sure You can add an suteble enclosure for the nasty LED strip on top! The way this should work is by scattering light on the white pigment particals in the epoxy mass. Greetings from a retyred ophthalmist in the Netherlands🤓

[@kiefermr]

I feel you on the "I'm prototyping everything" when you build all your projects - been building guitars for ~10 years or so now and because I'm not using a CNC for anything each one has that same one-off feel through the build. Definitely dig what you do here - keep things up! Cheers!

[@shaunboydmadethis]

For sure, which is fun, but can also be frustrating! Thanks for watching!

[@edwardsimmons3721]

As a You Tube fan, and fan of your content. Any project that has multiple components and techniques that are not seen everyday is awesome to watch.

[@eugenelasartemay1899]

I think you did a great job on the light fixture. Now, this is just my thought. I would recommend you add a brass polished shelf just big enough lay the LED on and allow the light to hit the light panel. The reason for brass and not the black tubing is to give the light another surface to reflect off of.

[@umranrc]

Just a thought... the exterior darker colored wood can be made into a bridge connecting a split horizontally the main fixture. Allow say an inch of recess clearance between the split section for fixing the led light strip. It'll be a cleaner built!

[@Choedron]

I like this lamp. Route a recess for the light. You can make a small list below the light, so it is not so easy to see from below. Get a semitransparent edge chamfered or rounded tempered glass (about 6 mm thick) with premade holes in it. A glazier can easily make this. (or use a milky white acrylic plate) Use round sticks to attach the glass (or acrylics). And make some supporting rings, which holds the glass in place on the middle of the round stick - glue one side ring on first and let it cure. Then put on the plate and glue the other side ring on. If you use a darker material for the round sticks, you can let the sticks stick out through holes on the side and trim it down, so the ends become contrasting features seen from the outside. In that case, you should wait fixing the glass (acrylics) until you assemble the middle part, so you can stick one end of the round sticks through the holes with glue, put on the glass (acrylics) add the other side supporting ring, and then push the other end through on the opposite side with glue.

[@jamesculpin9680]

You could swap out the epoxy panel for a light sheet or edge lit acrylic. Is a shame as it’s a lovely looking light. Could maybe also use a slimmer LED and set it into the wood instead of screwed to face. You should do a mark 2 build. Shows development and progress. Would be interesting to see

[@Turbo-426]

Great design as always Shaun. Although im suprised no one else has mentioned that you could of just bought a white sheet of arcrylic/perspex cut to size. Would have saved you hell of a lot of time, money and materials.

[@chrisschurtz5254]

Put a ledge on under the led light to hide it from eye sight and then place an angled reflective piece on the top edge of the epoxy to redirect the light more down word. Love the lamp.

[@ConbustibleMonkey]

You could totally recess those lights inside the shade, on the inside of the strip wrapped around the shade. Cut a groove all the way around, sink the lights in, maybe put a bit of an interior shelf under them to hide them even more, done!

[@catgynt9148]

Replacing the aluminum channel with a routed channel in the inner surface of the shade should eliminate some of your issues. Many contemporary LED lighting strips are supplied on spools similar to magnetic tape reels. The radius of the spools are significantly smaller than the radius of your laminated ends. The only reason to use the aluminum channels on straight sections would be to augment heat dissipation.

[@jewdd1989]

Beautiful light, regardless if the lights show, etc. it’s like a mid mod rectangular lamp which is ridiculously long for a name but I enjoy the curved edges and just learning how you did it all. When you showed the reveal, first off the semi transparent white epoxy panel worked very well, secondly I wonder if prior to assembly with wood glue and all of you routed a dado or groove to inset the leds if that’d be better and some way to hide it better would be pouring a very thin strip panel to sit directly onto the leds. In fact you could remove the bigger panel all together and make a screen to set over the leds themselves like you can buy semi transparent filters. The one bummer is that the light obviously can’t go through the hardwood, this build and light reminds me somewhat of what Pask Makes built a year or so ago. His was a large circle that he routed by hand every little squiggle shape to allow light to shine through and it’s gorgeous! So many possibilities and options but if I were facing your dilemma myself I’d go that route. Or embrace the light as a specific purpose light like for a desk when the light really needs to hover above a desk for ie. And about the shed, I’d love to get the metal version, my concern is the area I live in produces winds 40+ and consistently. Doesn’t sound bad at 40mph but it always gets more severe sometimes up to 70-80 mph and we get dust storms from the drought and again seems to never stop blowing. I’d be afraid of that thing lifting away but I’ll have to check out their products and see if I could I mount it to a concrete base or something. I should build my own damn traditional shed but like you mentioned… time is a factor and I’m not fast at building. I tend to stall, become indecisive, over research all possibilities but eventually finish a build and it’s well made and beautiful but obnoxiously overthought and I’m afraid I’d do the same thing with a shed. Anyone else struggle with time lines and procrastination? Most frustrating quality to have lol

[@richdobbs6595]

My immediate reaction would be to split the inner fixture, and use that to create a recess to hide most of the LED strip, since you've currently got a decorative, but non-functional accent strip. By augmenting that with an inner accent strip, you could hide almost all of the visible LED strip. With this, the main challenge would be whether enough of the resin panel is illuminated to provide good light.

[@SAWimp1]

acrylic panels make good diffusers and come with various attenuative values. also, they make flexible led channel, and most accept a cover for a nice neat look.

[@BoraHorzaGobuchul]

One could recess the LED strip. Since it's supposed to be relatively bright, I'd also worry about its longevity without a metal heatsink, though most people don't think about it. I'd make sure somehow that people sitting under the light can't see the step itself. The middle panel could be made with plexiglass instead of epoxy. I've can easily find plexiglass and similar materials in various colors/frostiness.

[@s0berlin]

Rice or paper screen will help diffuse the light and hide the light components. White glue and then a little mist of water and it’ll tighten up the paper like a drum skin.

[@stalincat2457]

Not a woodworker but: -Remove the contrasting end piece -Saw the lamp in two halves horizontally. -Use a router to recess half the LED channel in each half of the armature. -Use a router to recess half of the cable diameter in the round pieces. -Reassemble, using the contrasting end piece to hide the cut. Also there's diffusers that will mask the individual LED elements a bit. Also, nice lamp!

[@T-Fyre]

So my thoughts on the visible LEDs, first you probably could've gone with cheaper LEDs that don't have all that clunky waterproofing, just the FCB and chips, then while assembling the entire thing before you ratcheted it all together, cut a groove along the inside where the accent band is to nest the LEDs inside of, so they don't stick out as much, then you could use a cheap flexible diffusion channel's cover to diffuse the LED's, and run another notch up the inside in the middle and use the middle support rod for the transparent sheet to run cables from, assuming that's not incorporated in the other two suspension cables, the only downside is you'd be able to see the hot-spots of the LEDs through the diffusion layer, unless you get a strip with a high enough density of LEDs

[@4legdfishman]

It looks amazing! I know how you feel about the light strip, but it is just a prototype. A beautiful prototype! Thanks for sharing your talents.

[@vinceearl4240]

I was just thinking "how is he going to lay on this," when the image of Shaun superimposed on the lamp showed up. Well-played! Awesome video.

[@abelincoln78]

If the center panel were two pieces of etched acrylic with polished edges you could have built a seat for the acrylic to nest into with edge lights pointing both down and up. If your acrylic was thick enough you could probably drill a hole in the top side down to the center connection and maybe get away with it.

[@5ElementsWoodworking]

Hiding the ugly....I stress over that too. Maybe for this, instead of screwing through the side into your epoxy support posts(?), rods(?), you make a ledge for them to sit on the same thickness as your led strip, and attach straight down through the rod into the ledge? You can put a strip/ledge on the bottom to hide the ugly when looking up. I mean, it won't completely hide the ugly, but a little trim goes a long way. But the design is great, and looks beautiful!

[@efenili]

I feel like a recessed more bare bones LED strip would have done the trick here pretty easily. Once you started assembly without a channel though I definitely had some questions :) Either way its a great piece and thanks for sharing!

[@BuildiTDIYIsrael]

I have no idea why you don't like it, it's an awesome build! I really like the result. very cool idea, very neet execution. well done.

[@joshmanrobertson]

this is a fantastic light fitting! the only things i can think of that could help with the "ugly" wiring would be to go a little bit more bespoke with the implementation. ditch all the big bulky connectors and cable, and solder the bits and pieces together. It's a bit late now, but for the next prototype, route a small relief into the wall to recess the strip lighting a bit, then route a "hidden" channel under the accent piece to route the wiring between sides?

[@ReCyke]

You may not like the "light" part of this lamp, but your design is awesome. It would make an interesting Pool table light. Maybe if you could have angled the white plexi that you made and used a diffuser channel ... I'm no expert. But I would most defintely buy a version 2.0 from you.

[@GregsGarage]

Bravo Shaun. I'm sure you're like me and you've already sorted out the fix 15 different ways. The next one will be trick!!!

[@shaunboydmadethis]

Haha, yep! I know exactly what I would do next time!

[@hemanths193]

When I saw the design first, I thought the middle contrast oval ring is to strengthen the slot for led inside. So if you make a second version, you can create a lot inside and try to inlay the led strip. Design looks awesome!

[@fegheaizdrea1638]

I love that dacia you have overthere. We own 2 at this point plus their electric one 2023!

[@alejandrolemmo]

I think it looks amazing! Probably you already knew this but why didn't you use the accent piece in the middle to embed the led light so they would be flush with the inside wall? That would be for version 2 of this lamp.

[@Ernzt8]

I really like this design and the resin part is very original. If you ever want to continue with this design, why not find a way to sink in the LED strip in the middle at the thickened part of the wood.

[@ungoodwoodworker]

Bent laminations from resawn boards is such an incredible medium to create from. Love it.

[@shaunboydmadethis]

For sure!

[@markgambrill]

I have a similar design I've been developing in my head for the last few years (plus a handful of sketches). It's great to see it come to life and gives me more motivation to get it done.

[@ThadySenior]

With the centre trim piece you could have made the inner part in two with a gap between the top half and the bottom to recess the LED strip - the same effect could still be achieved by routing a channel around the middle inside?

[@kz65g9]

Dude!!! That is an awesome piece of light furniture fixture. Thanks for showing it. You just gave me the idea I was looking for.

[@kpopahjussi]

A very art deco feel. I really like it.

[@personalaccount342]

nice piece, simple channel fix, and finished the vid off with my favourite humm song

[@DavZell]

Some quuarter round under/above the light strips would hide them a bit on the straightaways. It would give them an inset-type appearance.

[@JBLewis]

I think there are definitely less bulky, more flexible LED strips out there that would give you the opportunity to recess the strips in the wood. Perhaps something low voltage so the wires coming down from the ceiling into the fixture could be smaller, and the transformer could be hidden in the celling like LED puck lights use.

[@nmlackritz]

Love this piece. Couple of questions.... (1) About what radius were the bends? (2) About how thin were the laminations?

[@Hiksan5]

As a designer photographer, I can attest that designing good lightfixtures is difficult. SO much has to work at the same time. It needs to look good, be practical, preferably have fairly standard electrical parts, not be too heavy, be easy to mount - and lastly give off good light. I feel that you have delivered on most of these parameters, especially considering that this is a one off prototype. Something that we dont see a lot among KZbin woodworkers is quick prototyping in cheap+quick materials. Perhaps a few mockups in cardbord etc could have sorted out the minor errors. Good works a allways. Especially appreciate you sharing your design process and considerations that led to that specific design, this makes these videos so much more than just a guy in a garge making a random thing

[@shaunboydmadethis]

For sure, adding together all of those things is a trick! Thanks for watching!

[@ryanroepke9933]

Shaun, First off, I love the design and execution of the bent wood and the contrasting epoxy reflector of the light. (whether it be a chandelier or pendant or whatever) From the light component standpoint I would have to agree, on the thicker strip lights do look pretty $#*^y. I ran into a similar issue when trying to conceal an led strip light in a wood channel above my work from home desk and had success with Feit brand Onesync "Tape Lights'". The strips are thinner, more flexible and easier to conceal than a lot of strip lights. They may be worth a look.? Anyway, thanks for finishing the project and posting this video even though the final look wasn't exactly what you had hoped. Cheers, Ryan

[@SeaFanStudio]

The light turned out great Shaun! While you might not be able to iterate on this design, another great aspect of making KZbin videos is that someone else seeing it might iterate on your design and post a video of it that you get to watch. Thanks for sharing!

[@earld1403]

*Just an idea - Don't change the wood at all - you want the center white piece to glow.* Just remove the center white piece, cut it in half length wise, add a long piece of wood with a channel in the center on both the top and the bottom, put 1/2 of the led strip in the channel facing down and the other half in the channel facing up, have the electrical come out the end of the panel and into the main body of the lamp, attach the top and bottom of the white panels to the center piece of wood, reinsert it into the lamp and you're done. Depending on the strength of the leds and how much it glows, you may need to replace the solid white with a piece of translucent acrylic.

[@shaunboydmadethis]

That's a clever idea! I had considered a similar idea when I was first thinking about the light, but was worried the epoxy panel wouldn't let the light shine through enough. But definitely something that could work if done right.

[@boxertrix2540]

...or cast the LED strips in the panel as you pour it. A few rows alternating between LED up and LED down would do that, to shine the light out of the sides of the finished panel. Great work by the way, as usual

[@meeker03]

As a protype this is amazing. I would be insanely proud of this if I were you. Congrats on another excellent video. FYI... COB LED light strip would have been the way to go. And as someone else mentioned you could have cut a channel on the inside to better hide the light tape. Man I hope there is a next time for a light fixture for you.

[@shaunboydmadethis]

Really appreciate it! Yep, that's definitely how I would do it if I were to make another one. We'll see!

[@wedding_photography]

I think I know a good solution to your light issue. Make it glow from the inside. You make a similar epoxy panel, but completely transparent. You round the edges, then you sand-blast it, making the surface matte. Then you slice it in half length-wise, right in the middle. Which will give you two pieces each with a transparent long edge. That's where you make the LEDs shine. So you have two strips of LEDs: one shining up into the upper half, one shining down into the lower half. And the LED strips are in the middle, so they aren't visible.

[@codylee2818]

Your macro view of time concept is "lead time" or "cycle time" or "wall clock time" (depending on exactly what you're measuring) and is the best way of measuring your time.

[@UpcycleFab]

I LOVE the techniques and craftsmanship used to make this light. LED’s can be tricky…but there are some really thin strips that will give you lots of options. I would love to see this with a full spectrum light with colors. Great job!

[@shaunboydmadethis]

I honestly didn't realize how thick this light strip was when I bought it. I've used the thin ones before, but figured I would try something a bit "nicer". Thanks for watching!

[@donnygrahambuilds]

The design on this piece is awesome! To be such a small component of the overall process, that inside chamfer detail really adds a lot. The video itself was also really well executed, timing, flow, and overall entertainment value - it was all there. Solid work m'man!

[@handlesarestupid1234]

Love the look. Maybe make some opaque diffuser panels to go horizontally across the top and bottom so that the light shines through but you can’t see the LED strips and wiring inside?

[@rnorwood2815]

I was waiting to see just how in the heck you were going to lie on that thing and what you did was nothing short of EPIC. Love the light and would love to see more builds like this.

[@Lucas-vd2gx]

Another fix would be an inner ring from that same white plexi piece you have, wide enough to cover the wires, if you look from below you would just see a white ring. Might even help to reflect light.

[@somryein]

great project and process. was just going to say that corian might be a great material for the center panel. it looks great and has a slight translucency to it.

[@sturdyboneswoodworking]

I totally get that Shaun. I think you could probably put some kind of band around the bottom to shield the view a bit but understand not wanting to keep going once a project is basically done. Funny enough, I had a love/hate thing going with my last build video but couldn’t let it go and had to fix it. Keep forging ahead!

[@shaunboydmadethis]

For sure, at this point I don't have much motivation to go back to it. But maybe a version 2 down the line!

[@FearsomeWarrior]

The runner strip on the outside potentially covers a groove on the inside to sink the LED defuser trays. The wire is something that could be covered in a blocked out tray or something just to hide it from view and only show wood. Maybe symmetrical on both sides even if only one side has the wire.

[@sygad1]

I would love a part 2 where the concealment of hte LED was designed in from the start, there's a bunch of ways it can be done

[@waguchan2414]

I think this is my favorite one of your builds. It doesn't look like a prototype. I also love how you used the first curved piece to make the accent curved pieces fit exactly.

[@ShredPile]

I really like the inward sloping bevel on the bottom of the shade. A trick of the eye at least in the camera shot makes it look like the shell is thin and the wider edge is a rolled in like the edge of a sheet metal something or other. Great project.

[@michaelstockdale]

I think I would have poured another translucent panel that sits horizontally within the fixture that would hide everything from below... That or use a diffuser panel from a fluorescent light. But, I think it's a beautiful piece! Great job using techniques that are not at all easy!

[@noahalbrectsen5401]

This reminded me of Poul Henningsen's lamps - same base concept of not being able to see the light source, and he made some iconic lamps from it (ph lamps) - - just to say well done, and I think it would be interesting to see further iterations on this design!

[@cam-asherbond5316]

Dude, you laying down at the end absolutely sent me 😂 Well done though. Wires suck, sorry about that bit -but the design is so strong.

[@orvh5223]

wow that light fixture looks great! I sure appreciate your comments about building "prototypes" . Feel like I've only ever done that. .. and yes .. v2 would be better ..lol

[@inhokim1494]

This is one of those rare ones we can't see Shaun lays down after making! Always I appreciate what you show us.

[@ryanlowe0]

joke or you missed it? this lay down made me lol

[@elzacreatif7511]

This is a very quite really great looking prototype.

[@kenmaira]

Love the light, super sleek. If you want to hide away those wires, just add a piece of rice paper as a diffuser, and you'll never see it!

[@ThunderStarUK]

Quick hack - Paint the inside brilliant white it will give more reflection and would better hide the strip

[@stuff6218]

Light diffuser tracks routed into the long parts (pre-assembly) I guess? Still looks bloody great though.

[@adamnelson4050]

I am always looking forward to your videos. Thank you for the excellent content.

[@shaunboydmadethis]

Thanks for watching!

[@BarreiraLuis]

Thinking about design and the demands of the discipline, the only reason for the existence of the outer band is the possibility of guaranteeing a greater thickness to embed the LED inside. This justifies the choice of the aesthetic component. Since the refraction of light is intended in the central panel parallel to the sides, the need to create this recess inside the curved parts can be eliminated. However, it may be necessary to use one of the cross pieces to pass the wires inside or above and connect the two LED lines on each side to the same LED driver. It may also be necessary to use one of the cross pieces to hide the LED driver itself. Regardless of everything, it's good to be able to see your work and thus have a practical case to discuss. Your spirit of initiative is essential. Congrats

[@shaunboydmadethis]

Appreciate the thoughts and ideas! Definitely might be worth revisiting this one down the line.

[@EmmisonMike]

this video and Burlsart both talk about the hour count for their builds, and i think it's so interesting to see how different people see time. Off-the-cuff, I imagine curiosity for the time of a build to be from people that want to get into this as a hobby and accommodate it around a more full-time job. if you can chunk like 2 hours after work a night, that's ten hours a week (provided you don't do anything over the weekend) so you can repurpose the build for a full-time creator to your own metrics. But I don't really see anything more complicated from creators than "get in front of your tools and do what you can." Marc Rebillet's "another idea" song says as much. For a lot of people, myself included, scheduling creative outlets in their lives is in itself a creative venture. The "how" for creativity is such a looming question because of the primacy "making enough to not starve" has over us. I'm not a fan of that, but it can't be an unsolvable problem. it is a problem that requires creativity from everyone who wants to solve it. maybe the first (and last) step is just getting in front of your tools and doing what you can." I'm not sure I'd really ask for an hour-count (I don't like asking for anything, but that's something I don't feel like getting into), but It's fun to see someone with a different perspective from the work-per-hour default so many people have talking about their work. It feels like a window out of the restrictiveness of that perspective.

[@shaunboydmadethis]

That all makes a lot of sense. I suppose woodworking for me is the day job, so I would never think to ask an accountant how long it took to do a spreadsheet. But the truck sitting in my shop is the hobby, and I would love to know how long it took someone to replace the transmission. But I do love the mentality of just "get in front of your tools and do what you can."

[@geoffreymills9932]

I think it's a great looking fixture,, any light is going to have wires and being that particular about it is undue stress over something that just has to be, I didn't see any wire going to the ceiling so I'm calling it a win, nice job and great design, I might be building one myself

[@BuiltKnotBought]

Shaun you've outdone yourself with this light! Amazing work dude

[@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542]

HEY!!! BOYDS ARE PART OF MAH FAMULEE!!! EXCELLENT!!!

[@MrAkagrim]

Great effort! I think I'm sounding off what others have said...route a channel around the inside is probably best way to resolve. But I'd love the light regardless....

[@shaunboydmadethis]

Yep, that definitely would be a good way to do it. Maybe on the next one! Thanks for watching!

[@swedishdad]

Could try using the diffuser panel from a large LCD display eg. from a monitor or TV.

[@THANATOSIXU]

If you had recessed the led strips and housing, I think it would look alot cleaner, but then you would've had to have used thicker wood. It definitely seems like it could be refined to be what you envisioned. :) I think it still looks great.

[@smiffy5467]

That looks great Shaun, you could put a thin diffused panel just up inside to hide the wiring from below.. 👍

[@mikededmon]

Beautiful fixture. I know there won't be a 2.0 ver, but I wonder if you could recess the light in the wood where the decorative strip is. Then maybe the bulb would be recessed and less visible and NOT visible from the outside because of the accent strip. But, love it nonetheless.

[@shaunboydmadethis]

I think if I ever do it again, that's the way I would go!

[@joseescoto9069]

Shaun I noticed you have some hand planes in the background. However I don’t see you use them often. How about a video walking us through your shop and the new additions

[@shaunboydmadethis]

Yeah, they are mostly wall decoration, except for the occasional use. Probably wouldn't do a video about that stuff here, but it's definitely something I would post on my Patreon.

[@alexandreguillard8792]

I would have gone for a more transparent panel in the middle; as for the light a grove inside to recess the LED strip would have been fine Anyway nice looking light fixtures 👍🏻

[@anonymousseven2491]

too humble, for what its worth, I think it looks amazing. Great job

[@thomlipiczky9021]

This is really a nice light fixture. Maybe just needs a baffle under the wire harness to block its view but still allows the light to bounce around. Make more!

[@mgbwoodwork5653]

That's a good-looking fixture thingy. You probably know by now there are sources of led connectors out there that are much more elegant. Nice work!!

[@sandilemabaso9001]

This is wonderful. Congratulations.

[@Line-vw5io]

maybe it's the part of the world you live in, leds in Europe comes in a much more smaler versions. I would have tried to put the led strip upside down, on the headside of the epoxy, or just put inside the epoxy some ware halfway. (pore the epoxy over the led) Love the channel

[@kevinb6102]

Hello. Do you have supports under than mdf? I’m assuming it’s the kreg bench. Any center supports ?? Thanks

[@craiglyons3975]

Great build Shaun. Welcome back. I agree with what GWAIHIRKV suggested as well as maybe a floating valence around the light apparatus. Just an idea. Again, keep up the great work Shaun.