Exhaust Header Secrets: What to Look For

How to pick a quality header that will last forever, perform well, and look amazing. Weld types, flanges, stainless steel types, coatings, and more.
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Header Collector Science and Scavenging:
• Header Collector Science
Tri-Y vs 4-into-1:
www.superstreetonline.com/how-...
www.hotrod.com/articles/how-t...
Ceramic Coatings:
www.hotrod.com/articles/high-...
Special Thanks to BadAssEngineering for letting me use some of one of their videos. : )
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0:00 Introduction
0:32 1) Flange Thickness
1:07 2) Welded Ports
1:40 3) Hand Tig Welds
2:06 4) Equal Length
3:27 5) Cone Shaped Collector
4:05 6) Stainless Steel
5:32 7) Tri-Y vs. 4-into-1
6:20 8) Ceramic Coating

[@AutoGuild]

Visit Auto-Guild.com to get your free pre-order of the LS Swap Survival Guide eBook. As well as other cool eBooks and cool car related posters too.

[@mrelectron6220]

I think $350 for ceramic coating is cheap heat control vs cooking all of your plastic and rubber vacuum hoses. Headers will radiate much more heat into the engine bay and passenger compartment and cause heat soak. I got the ceramic coating on my Stainless works headers and do not regret one bit spending the extra $$ for it.

[@makantahi3731]

it is problem if you reving on place, for driving is good to have heat shield around primary tubes to cables and pipes

[@3dw3dw]

Something to consider with equal length headers is firing order of your specific v8. There are engines for which an equal length header is not the best. Check it out and you'll see what I mean. On the topic of material and ceramic coating and rust... Any metal with high iron content can be passivated using phosphoric acid. Iron will oxidize eventually if exposed to oxygen no matter what. But oxidized iron can be converted from iron oxide to iron phosphate. The iron phosphate layer can prevent deeper structural iron from being exposed to oxygen. The header should be boiled to promote a flash oxidation layer to give the phospho something to convert and thus build a thicher iron phosphate layer. Ceramic coating is something most people can do at home. It's worth the price of a set of headers to know how to do. Great video man. Keep em coming. P.S. might consider teaching that matching the header to the intake and cams shaft is the key to making good power. A stock engine can actually lose power by adding a header designed for racing applications. Also, the diameter of the runner affects pulse timing. A smaller diameter will accelerate the exhaust gas and a large diameter will slow it down. The reason this matters is at what rpm do you want max torque. If the intake is designed for peak torque at 3000 rpm and the header for 7000 rpm... well you can see what's up. They will be working against each other. Then the cam shaft enters the chat, lol!

[@AutoGuild]

Great points, I may need to update this video at some point. Appreciate the constructive comment. Cheers.

[@whaddayawant2197]

I would love to see a video on that reaction you were talking about. I've seen my work wash down parts with phosphoric solution then rinse before powder coating. Is that something similar?

[@BigJnWorldWide]

If you having underhood temp issues, it can effect things like sensors and wiring in the engine bay. If ceramic coating is gonna but temps down by 50%, you're saving yourself a lot of headaches from replacing sensors.

[@johanvkjr]

safest just to assume you WILL have at least one issue related to header temps

[@meademorgan6614]

Wrap them

[@tayvonrose2528]

@@meademorgan6614 do both

[@yzScott]

The starter motor can really benefit.

[@gabrielibarra5551]

on top of that, hot air is less dense. Testing things like this that are supposed to improve power by containing heat should not be done on a engine dyno, your car does not have the benefit of having fresh air to the intake and the exhaust gas being constantly extracted out of the room, your engine bay is going to get hotter and hotter and you're going to lose power because the air you're sucking in is that much less dense. I guarantee you they conducted that experiment on a engine dyno rather than a chassis dyno, and a chassis dyno would definitely yield some results.

[@machinis]

I agree with your ceramic vs. 304 stainless steel argument. Personally, I'm a sucker for DEI exhaust wraps, but late models barely leave any space for them. Thanks for the video.

[@doacarnage]

The cone you speak of in the collector, makes it a "merge collector" just in case you wanted to know the correct terminology.

[@V8Lenny]

No , merge is different , better , was not shown in this video.

[@meademorgan6614]

Not true, I have a set of merged headers. And there is no cone in the collector.

[@tylerphelps4868]

That silicon bronze you talked about when headers is actually just a more proper tig weld. Tig welds “should” be silver to straw colored on stainless. Rainbows are actually corrosion. Food grade stuff is even more strict

[@markwatts6556]

I really like this video, super helpful to people trying to get into cars without scaring us away

[@brillowolf]

Regarding Hot Rod’s Ceramic Coating article, it should be noted that they ran the test on an engine dyno. Had the engine been in a car on a rear wheel dyno with the hood closed you may have seen a hp difference, especially in modern vehicles where the computer pulls timing due to elevated iat’s.

[@YszapHun]

same reason why rally cars had them way back in the 90s... less heat in the engine bay that needs less cooling, less cooling impacts aero less, less temperature in the intercooler makes more hp.

[@billclark5943]

I have built 30-35 sets of headers in the last 30 years, including piston aircraft, 2/3 of which were stainless. From my experience there are only 2 types of SS to use in header construction. 304 and 321 the ladder being used in high output turbo applications or in a thinner wall for high end, normally aspirated. 304 is fine for street turbo applications that dont see extended high rpm high load operation. The ideal use imo of ceramic coating is to use it on the inside only of a stainless header which retains the SS look but increases thermal efficiency while reducing discoloration in gasoline applications. Another thing to look for in ss header construction is if the manufacturer purged or used flux on the back side of the weld. The way to tell is if there are signs of carbide precipitation on the back of the weld which is black in color. Shiny on the inside means it was done correctly. Carbide precipitation can lead to a 30% reduction in weld strength leading to cracks. Silicon bronze is the name of the tig rod used to weld outside of the flange on a steel header. There is a black ceramic coat that looks better over time and less prone to rust imo on a steal header. Other good points in the video

[@makantahi3731]

what about of ss316 on primary tubes instead of 304

[@billclark5943]

@@makantahi3731 316 is essentially the same as 304 with the exception of added Moly which improves its corrosion resistance. As far as I know the only benefit of using 316 over 304 would be in a marine application.

[@makantahi3731]

@@billclark5943 i am making whole ex : headers from 316 and rest of 304,i have winter time and lower parts of car were full of road salt, i will see if any difference,

[@billclark5943]

@@makantahi3731 I didnt think about road salts. Certainly seems like a wise choice

[@garetfitzpatrick2043]

Bill i would like your opinion on a matter if you would. I bought ceramic stainless steel long tube tri Y headers from dougthorley headers 6 months ago. I installed them on my daily driver. The website described them as 304 with mild steel flanges. Well now the Ys or collectors are shedding the coating and rusting. Come to find out through tech services, Those parts are actually 409 stainless and they say that 304 cannot be manipulated in the same way to make them. My question is this just a way to cut cost or can you actually make the Y's / collectors out of 304? Thank you

[@BadAssEngineering]

From 0:48 to 0:58 you used my video on Speed Engineering Headers, im flattered

[@AutoGuild]

Hey good catch, and cheers for being so friendly about it. I just added a shout out to you in the video description. : )

[@BadAssEngineering]

@@AutoGuild

[@Agent.K.]

Not as detailed as I expected but, gives a clear idea about the basics. Good video.

[@paullastname474]

one extra thing we do at work that wasn't listed here is to hammer the inside of the tube inside every flange to close the gaps and the clean the inside edges with a linisher thing in a die grinder (don't know what they are actually called) and smooth the mating surface of the flange with a flap disc but like you mentioned with headers we face them off on a linisher and they come out really neat

[@netsurfers9357]

Great advice and I totally agree with you Sport Tuned 304 headers are what I would be looking for!... The problem with many of the new Engines of today is that they have aluminum heads that are well designed, but end up breaking bolts because they have cast iron manifolds as stock to preserve heat (big heat/thaw difference)!... 304 Stainless Sport Tuned Headers I believe will solve much of those problems from breaking header bolts, but at a cost of changing out your thermostat to a little later opening with keeping the heat! There is always a heat distribution change on the aluminum heads and changing out the head bolts to something that will accommodate the heat exchange (heat/thaw) is also a great interest as well! Why many companies decide to go with cast iron manifolds is because of the cheap price! Great article!

[@bobthbldr3]

Good video. Covered a lot without making it confusing. Glad you explained equal length but most of your examples weren't.

[@Drake5153]

I believe ceramic coating only affects performance when its applied internally, usually on N/A applications, but its only effective if you build your entire setup around this feature and carry it through most of the exhaust as well as tuning it for this feature

[@kwisin1337]

Well explained man. Great job.

[@arnbo88]

An extra bit of info on 4 into 1 vs tri-y headers is ground clearance. This holds true for lowered cars and cars that weren't designed for modification. I had 4 into 1 Blackjack headers on my Delta 88 and the collectors scraped every speed bump they could find. Eventually I had custom made Tri-Y headers installed and no more problems.

[@tahcogunworks]

Lol Blackjack! That's years ago!

[@arnbo88]

@@tahcogunworks 1987 to be exact. Back then in northern Canada there weren't all that many options after I dropped a 455 Olds V-8 into my 1967 Delta 88. The new headers were customized here in Australia but it still retains the Edelbrock Torker II intake manifold and cowl induction.

[@mrelectron6220]

@@tahcogunworks Yeah and they were not exactly top shelf either which may explain clearance issues.

[@ImportDomestic2006]

Pretty much everything you put it out is why I got Kooks exhaust for my 2006 6.0L GTO

[@davidmartin6815]

saw a demo on u tube , measuring temp from a coated header and a non coated .the non coated 500 degrees hotter than the ceramic coated header .

[@bartonofarrell2693]

Thank you for sharing such good advice.

[@kenxiong6830]

Great video and content. Definitely got yourself a new subscriber

[@supercharged6771]

I do the jet hot 2000 coating, with shipping it gets expensive but not only for the looks but the heat that is controlled is substantial.

[@austingtir]

Stitching on the outside of the header flange is perfectly fine as long as the internal weld is good. No weld on the outside I agree is not such a good idea but a stitch is fine and more than enough.

[@mustpaike]

On more modern cars with cats, ceramic coating has one more benefit, heating the cats up faster and possibly to a higher temperature, allowing the exhaust to be a bit cleaner. I bought ceramic coated shorty headers for my truck primarily because of under hood temperatures and never wanting to deal with warped headers and broken header bolts ever again. And although everybody who knows more about engines than I do keep telling me that headers do not increase torque that much, it still seems to me, that compared to a ticking exhaust manifold, it now has more off-idle torque and revs more freely than before. But it is a 230hp 3ton truck so I could be wrong.

[@cuzz63]

Headers do increase torque through the whole range. The shorty headers dont have as much effect as long tube though but still make a difference esp of the stock exhaust is highly restrictive.

[@swansmeister]

What you need to know as a noobie is in here, very good vid imo.

[@anthonypapa8676]

I just ordered headers for my car. stainless steel... how do you feel about wrapping them. I know I won't get any horse gain looking to maybe keep the intake a little cooler

[@jamesseaman6919]

I like these headers!

[@reece8355]

Really good info

[@Allan.m432]

I put American racing headers on my 05 hemi. It made a massive difference

[@Savineyard3]

Thank God I ordered my full length Stainless Works T304 Headers before 2020 when the economy was being shut down and now with stagnation and inflation (Also know as Stagflation) hitting us where it hurts the most. I've been hearing people waiting for 6 months up to a full year for there headers due to the demands over the supplies. Hell something as little as Tig welding rods were unavailable when companies like Kooks, Stainless Works, and Clear Imaging still had decent amounts of T304-409 in stock were causing headaches.

[@jeffarcher400]

I heard stainless will corrode if deprived of contact with air. This is from boating where leaving a rope,fish scales or even grease on rails starts a chemical process that can destroy stainless internally. This results in a white crusty expansion of the metal much like when aluminum flakes. It doesn't seem to bother coated headers perhaps the heat drives moisture out. I was going to use the inexpensive heat wrapping tape but you can't see what's going on underneath. From dirt bikes I always liked flat black high temperature paint. Cheap,keeps moisture and corrosive salt air away but doesn't hide problems. Looks cool in my opinion too.

[@SoulPerformanceProducts]

Thank you for featuring our headers at 4:00! -Mike

[@AutoGuild]

Right on, send me a link and Ill add you guys in the description. : )

[@SoulPerformanceProducts]

@@AutoGuild Thank you! You can just link to www.soulpp.com. Much appreciated. -Mike

[@AutoGuild]

@@SoulPerformanceProducts Added. : )

[@SoulPerformanceProducts]

@@AutoGuild thank you very much! Love your work!

[@AutoGuild]

@@SoulPerformanceProducts Thanks, BTW, I also have a 997.2 C2S : ) I will be doing some sports car content soon too.

[@blakehintz3207]

Wonderful channel

[@billbraski2175]

Nice video thanks. I would suggest looking at grumpy jenkins book.

[@whaddayawant2197]

Info on header theory in there?

[@LSrado]

@autoguild in your opinion what is the best long tube headers for the 99-06 LS trucks?

[@The_R-n-I_Guy]

If you have header fitment issues, don't be afraid to dent your headers for clearance. It doesn't affect power at all. Don't believe me? Then watch Engine Masters. They have an episode where they Dyno test headers and they beat them till they're almost closed and it doesn't affect power. As long as you start with good headers you'll be fine

[@AutoGuild]

Great comment!!! I was totally going to mention that in this video. I was kinda shocked by that episode but it seems like totally OK to bash your headers as needed! My not look great but you wont lose power. : )

[@confuse3671]

Engine masters knows very little about headers. Headers do two things, 1) reduce exhaust restriction. Bigger pipes. The second part, hinted at by this video is scavaging, that is done by tuning the headers - primary pipe size and length, collector style diameter and length. If you can dent a header and not loose any power, the header is not tuned to your car and is probably way too big.

[@pascalthies13]

I have an project bike coming, 4 cilinder superbike form the 90' , And it has an 4 to 1 system now, I want to make 2 2in1 systems most part for sound but not with to much HP los. Are there anny tips ? Thanks 👋

[@yipe222]

I always wished the AR Cone design would've taken off and caught on. Great info though.

[@charlesstevenson1238]

Will Gbody fullink headers fit my 2000s10blazer I putting a 350 in it

[@robmelhuish1399]

I kind of felt like when you had done a lot of your comparisons you were not comparing multiple products for the same application. You’ve made some decent points on flange thickness. The points you bring up about welds in and/or outside or not all the way around a tube? Think about that a lil harder... in the examples shown, why were those welds not complete or done from the inside? Anyone?

[@k5guy]

My personal experience with cheap ebay headers. Bought a crappy tri y with intent of chopping off collector due to it being a motor swap and needed serious modification but didn't want to make an entire header. After chopping collector off it was apparent that at all 3 y's there was a additional tubing material that protruted half way into the primary right at the weld seam. This turned into a project of chopping the header into pieces to get in and die grind out the ID of each y to actually match the ID of the tubing. Just because all looks good on the outside does not mean it is even remotely smooth on inside. This was a cheap ass stainless try y for a ka24de going into a datsun 620 but I'm sure same shortcut is being used out there on others. DON'T BUY CHEAP STUF UNLESS YOU PLAN ON CUTTING IT APART!

[@AutoGuild]

Yeah thats a good lesson for everyone here.

[@duygukayhanisaskank4915]

@@AutoGuild WITH ALL DUE RESPECT: You are incorrect when you assert that "equal-length" headers are the best choice for correct exhaust flow, power, etc. In reality, unequal-length engine exhaust headers have been proven to be far superior to equal-length headers. Formula-1 Engines & those designed & built for "supercars" use unequal-length headers because their design allows the engine to produce more horsepower & torque. All factors being equal, unequal-length engine exhaust headers will always produce substantially more horsepower & torque throughout the entire powerband. More-so, when the unequal-length headers are constructed with "stepped" primary tubes, the power band is widened. The engine will also produce substantially more horsepower & greater pound-feet of torque at the highest RPMs of the powerband than headers without stepped primaries. The ONLY drawback of unequal-length exhaust headers is their fitment in the engine bay is sometimes problematic. However...when correctly built... fitment issues can be resolved. Best regards, Ben

[@lewisbrodnax7898]

It may not be the same as ceramic coating but I have used gloss chrome VHT paint for the same reasons. And if it needs 'adjustments 'or gets dirty over time..another can is a lot cheaper.

[@MasterWitchDoctor]

I strongly suggest you watch David Vizards video on headers, you need to learn some. Theres a whole lot you left such was wave pulse reversion and its effect on scavenging.

[@erniearambula3525]

How about wrapped headers instead of ceramic headers compared to raw stainless is there a difference in horsepower or heat management.

[@v1-vr-rotatev2-vy_vx31]

Gave up on ceramic coating which discolors,,Been using VHT silver 2000 degree F. Spray can paint with quick coverage, on a sand blasted header.Stays looking better longer without color fading and can be touched up easily..and big savings...

[@AutoGuild]

That’s a good tip. Nothing lasts forever so the fact you can touch it up is handy.

[@soufianDEMOS]

BEST VIDEOS on headers (I watched soooo many). I cant find a shorty headers that meets all your recommendations (browsed ALL the manufactures shorty headers but none has a proper welding as you describe on your video). Could you please tell me witch one would be the best for my CHARGER RT 07 ? Thank you

[@AutoGuild]

Yeah so many header companies are trying to hit the low price point cause thats what people buy. And the US made brands have to compete with the Chinese stuff which drives down prices even more. Try searching for "Stainless Steel Charger headers". The stainless stuff tends to be higher quality

[@thewholls7176]

Good video I was hoping you might go into the difference between short headers and long headers and whether or not it’s worth wrapping them in that heat bandage stuff......

[@SoulTouchMusic93]

You want them long as far as I know and don't do wrap a it can get caked with oil and catch on fire. Do ceramic coating. It helps by heat insulating the exhaust putting less heat into the engine bay. Long runners throw off more head because larger surface area.

[@makantahi3731]

shorty-small benefit, long-max benefit, do not wrap it, i did and header melted in 4-1 junction

[@288gto7]

@@SoulTouchMusic93 longer primary runners shift the peak torque and power towards the bottom end and shorter runners do the opposite. F1 v10s that revved to 18k have extremely short primary headers.

[@mrelectron6220]

The long and short of shorty headers is they make little to no extra power but may help with fitment of your exhaust system. If you have the room go with long tube headers. On the subject of wraps just get the ceramic coating.Some header companys will not honor warranty if they are wrapped but will with ceramic coatings. As some others have mentioned the fiberglass wrap can hold moisture in plus if you have an oil leak the wrap will absorb all that oil and you run the risk of fire.

[@darylmorse]

Not to nitpick, but it's impossible for any coating to reduce temperature by 50%. Temperature is measured from absolute zero, regardless of what units you are using. Maybe a coating could reduce temperature by 50 degrees, in which case, it would depend on whether you are talking about F or C.

[@nagyandras8857]

try vs 4to1, thing is.. try can be tuned MORE for top end power, as you can tune all 3 Y section lengths along with the tail for a narrow rpm range. 4to1 does not offer that many interactions. so by design the try would be more suited for top end power however generally they are designed for more of a wide and equal band.

[@tahcogunworks]

Tri?

[@nagyandras8857]

Bloody phone and its autó correct shite.

[@whaddayawant2197]

I agree that tri have more wider tuning range possible to them... but nivalac57 is putting out a good video on unequal length headers due to firing order as mentioned elsewhere in these comments. I think the quality and care put into 4:1 headers isn't there in most designs.

[@whaddayawant2197]

Nivlac57 darn dyslexia

[@laferrarifabrummbrumm3878]

Hey there, I work in a company which makes high-end exhausts for sports cars and racing cars, and talking from my boss huge experience, ceramic coatings are almost a scam if you plan to use the car at high rpm for much time, as the thickness of the coating isn't enough to resist to that much heat for long and will soon start to crack and crumb into dust.

[@Pork-Chopper]

My advice is this. If you are building a motor for racing or hauling ass, then go ahead n put Headers on. Headers will give you heat problems, you may need to heat wrap them. Also, sometimes the headers are really close to the spark plugs n will burn up the plug wires because of a tight fit. The better headers are very expensive, unless you really really want to have headers on your ride. It's not really necessary. My recommendation for a good street/strip motor is to use the original cast iron exhaust manifolds and install 2 1/4 in pipes, for good flow, with Flowmaster mufflers for a nice throaty sound without all the noise n resonance you get inside the car. It will interfere with listening to your stereo. Bigger pipes mean you will be running at WOT which are not good for a street motor. I have a Chevy C-10 with a 355 ci built up small block which has plenty of muscle n has a bad ass authoritative throaty sound. It runs n sounds great n has a slight resonance inside the cab. Unless you really really want headers n the headaches that go with them, heat, getting loose at the collectors etc. The stock exhaust manifolds will work just fine. They can also be ported a bit. The stock exhaust manifolds also give you low-end torque which is what you want in a street motor vs high-end torque which will waste more fuel n not be as fun to drive on the street. A race motor is really only good on a drag strip, not on a weekend cruise...

[@alexbrown4820]

Long tube headers make more torque and horsepower through the entire rpm range. Stock manifolds aren't designed to perform.

[@Pork-Chopper]

@@alexbrown4820 Stock manifolds were designed to perform, ie, The SS 396 did not come with headers n produced 375 horsepower n over 400 ft lbs of torque. The 409 didn't come with headers. And neither did the small blocks that came in the Corvettes. That was the first thing hot rodders did back then too, is put on "wide open" headers to make more power. If I had a choice, I'd be perfectly happy with a stock high performance motor that came in an El Camino, a Chevelle or Camaro from back in the 60's n 70's. None came with factory "headers" that I know of, n those motors had more than enough horsepower in stock configuration...

[@davidrayner9832]

Which design is better for an inline 6? Is it 6 into 1 or 6 into 3 into 2 and if it's the latter, do cylinders 1-2-3 go into 1 collector and 4-5-6 go into the other or does one header from one group go to the collector of the other group like the 'basket of snakes' seen on a Ford GT-40 (which is a V-8, the result of having a cross plane crank)? I'm building a hot rod that's a Model A with a Jag V-12 engine (essentially two inline 6s). Unlike when that engine was in its rightful home, space is not a problem so I can have the entire exhaust system made to whatever design is best. Thanks for any insight you can give.

[@makantahi3731]

big thing is spark order and degrees between: 90deg between two ex pulses is small and it will have better performances on low rpm, but if it is 720 deg it will have better perf. on high rpm, because pulses overlapping in collector(any kind 2/3/4/6.. in one) is no good, try to match up similar distance/timing pulses(for ex 180deg is good for inline 4 , 2 inner cylinders in 1 and 2 outer in 1 , i have v8 cross plane crankshaft and pulses are uneven, so for left bank i connected 1. and 5. cy in one, and 3. and 7. in one and that in one, for right bank are: 2. and 4. in one and 6. and 8. in one and that two in one, i am still making it so i will see how it will behave

[@44hawk28]

If you're using a heavy flange, it would not be a bad idea to bolt it to something flat, and heat cycle it a few times at a good high temperature period that will make it take a set that is flat. That will keep it from Frank to peel away from the head the first few times you try and heat it up. What you're calling a silicon Braves, is merely using a 309 High silicon wire. I've used it several times in the sheet metal trade. TIG welding can cause an issue however. It leaves an austenetic zone adjacent to the weld. So you then either have to make sure that you warm it up and cool it down a few Cycles before putting it to full Heat. So that the metal will temper a little bit. That's the problem people have when they TIG weld roll cages. Roll cages are made from chrome-moly steel which is designed to be welded with an oxy acetylene torch. When you TIG weld it, you end up with brittle Parts at all of the well joints. And you are supposed to heat those up to a dark red and then let them cool. Or just weld it with a oxy acetylene torch in the first place. Chromoly steel tubing was an able specification it was specifically designed to be welded with an oxy acetylene torch. Why NASCAR and NHRA require roll cages to be welded with a TIG is beyond me. Anybody who knows how to properly set a MIG welder and make a mig weld look just as nice as a TIG weld. As matter fact I have gun stick welding that looks for all the world like a TIG weld. You just have to have a steady hand. It's not chemistry information, it's Metallurgy information. If you're only working around on the street, you still get about 93 to 96% of the efficiency and all of the low-end torque out of shorty headers. There are small block Chevy blocks that you can get that you can bolt LS heads to and still get 500 plus horsepower. Because the only advantage to the engine design is in the head and the way it breathes, not the block. The newer LT engine is even better. Both of them take design ideas from the big block Chrysler engine from the 1960s, I rebuilt a couple of Ls Motors they have several design features from the Chrysler big block engines.

[@makantahi3731]

my tig looks like mig😉

[@jimcochrane7826]

If you plan on keeping your rod for years or even decades 304 stainless is the way to go for the entire system including hangers. It is a once and done. The only thing better than 304 is 316. It polishes better , holds the shine, and 0 corrosion but 316 is much more expensive and only available in straight lengths i believe for .065 exhaust tubing. I have 316 lenghts installed on my classic truck from 20 years ago. It looks great. I have 304 installled also and it has turned a brownish and will polish up but no corrosion.

[@confuse3671]

321 is a bit easier to come buy. 321 is alloyed with titanium and can take a bit more heat as well (turbo systems).

[@danarcotta1283]

I have stainless steel kooks with hp cats and a Borla exhaust. LT 5.3 2015 GMC Sierra. I also have an engine tune. My problem is yearly smog. I have to go back to the shop before I smog the vehicle. Is there a permanent fix for this,it's really getting old

[@mikerobinson324]

I have had a few different headers and on our 32 ford w/ approx 75000 miles,Rewarder Headers are still leak free.

[@Dappersworth]

5:19 correction: 304 doesn't rust because the chromium content is high enough that it forms a complete oxide covering over the metal, which doesnt oxidize the way iron does. This layer is protective and prevents the iron from rusting by acting as a barrier between the air and the iron.

[@makantahi3731]

my 304 header rusted over winter because of salt on road, inside was no rust

[@Dappersworth]

@@makantahi3731 are you sure it wasnt 409 stainless? That kind is less resistant to rust.

[@makantahi3731]

@@Dappersworth yes, it was custom made, and because of that ,now i work on header from 316 ss tubes

[@Dappersworth]

@@makantahi3731 interesting, but it may have been a poor quality 304 stainless, I know of a point where china was selling really low quality stainless steel that was rusting on peoples' appliances like refrigerators and ovens.

[@makantahi3731]

@@Dappersworth exhaust was wraped with thermal wrap that collected salt, so 304 was rusted, but part of aft 409 oem tubes were rottem as the worst mild steel, now i make headers from 316 and rest of exhaust from 304

[@jedadiahtucker2132]

looked in to the equal length headder for my WRX and it was listed as something like 5 or 7 hp. Considering it removes the boxer rumble i opted not to get one. Had ceramics on my mustang in the ye oldie days and i can confirm they run much cooler, but i agree unless heat is a issue its not worth the money. You showed sever shortie style headders in the vid it has been my experance that they are worth almost no hp over a stock manifold. unless the stock is pretty bad, like the old school log manifold.

[@AutoGuild]

Agree on the sound, my other car is a flat six and I certainly wouldnt change the sound for a few hp. Yeah I agree on shorty headers. Even the new manifolds are so good unless you go long tube and want high rpm power there is no need to switch on many cars. Great comment.

[@MrKdr500]

"shortie style" Headrers are "block huggers" for when there is no room in the engine bay or for replacing broken OEM manifolds, they were never about performance.

[@johanvkjr]

overall i thot this video was pretty good for an intro to the topic...you did however leave out one crucial thing - the distance at which the tube extends from the flange BEFORE making any bends. as a rule i maintain 1-1/2" MINIMUM distance. this means i want the tube to remain straight (unbent) for a minimum of an inch and a half before making any bends. hopefully the reason is obvious (but many lower quality pieces i have seen make bends at or so close to the flange that the tube itself becomes a restriction as it deviates from round or kinks in some fashion). with all of the informative comments (and also those inevitable nit piking d-wads) i found it somewhat disappointing that nobody mentioned this basic and crucial point. one other thing...when deciding on the tri-y config...make sure that the y portion of the headers are custom fit with compound welding angles and cuts. there are those out there that use cookie cutter style y connectors.. u should know them when u see them....they look kinda like two tube collectors located at the first two of the 3 connectors. also consider header wrap...temps go up under hood with headers...creates all sorts of ghosts to chase. lol

[@notjohnwick007]

Does titanium exhaust better than 304 stainless steel exhaust?

[@jesuscobos7243]

I got a set of $98 headers from ebay for my small block expecting them to be trash but they have all the good details you were just talking about (I bought them brand new btw)

[@billcat1840]

Me too..130$ for a set on my Dodge Magnum...very good quality..5 yrs later still doing great.

[@confuse3671]

I have a set as well - 321 stainless... I paid about the same amount as a mild steel header and since most off the shelf headers are not really tuned, I don't think I lost anything and the welds are decent enough.

[@alexcaddel117]

The headers I got are 321 stainless which is even better than 304 stainless by adding titanium into the alloy

[@paulsanderson4139]

my first job ,grinding flanges for my brother FRED SANDERSON.

[@twinscrew9.047]

Banks headers are nice

[@normpowell3566]

Informative info. I'm restoring a family heirloom, a 1978 Lincoln Continental Town Car with the 7.5 litre, 460 cubic inch engine. The original exhaust is a single pipe but I always felt it was struggling. Would like to put on a dual system. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank You.

[@20alphabet]

Yes, I have a suggestion. Replace the heads with a good set of Dart cast iron heads and get a good valve job on the new heads. While at the machine shop, have the STOCK exhaust manifolds gasket matched with a Felpro performance exhaust gaskets as well as the exhaust ports on the head. Then have both sides feed into a 3" pipe back to a quiet muffler with a 3" inlet and a 2.5" outlet. You'll get better power under 4,000rpm without losing torque, and the 2.5" outlet will keep velocity up as the gasses cool toward the end.

[@normpowell3566]

@@20alphabet Thanks for the reply. Just watched a video of the Dart Heads. Amazing when compared to an overhauled OEM head. Question: You mentioned "A good valve job". Do you know if Dart will do the whole head including the valve job. I'm not a mechanic so don't know these answers but I am technically oriented. Thanks for your sharing your knowledge.

[@20alphabet]

@@normpowell3566 No, they will not. It's quite rare for new heads not to need a valve job, as the valves seldom create a seal as sold. Buy the small port versions fully assembled. Let a reputable machine shop take it from there, you'll be money ahead. If you're in southern California I can make a recommendation. If you aren't, you can still use them and have the heads sent to you when they're ready.

[@eeddrums9008]

What about primary tube size and collector size in relation to motors horsepower, I would think that would be the most important information.

[@tahcogunworks]

It's not.

[@peterdarr383]

You can never run too large of a Primary tube when seeking horsepower.

[@dylanr13]

Very epic.

[@frankmurch3273]

I have a 1993 GMC 366 in a topkick. Big heavy truck. I would like to swap out the cast OEM manifolds and replace them with headers (and add a dual exhaust). The reason is I want to pull hills better, so low end torque. What headers would give me the most low end torque?

[@jonwaterbury3312]

Any set of long tube headers will help this "little" big block Chevy. If the tri-Y is offered at a good price, take those. The 366 is a small bored 402. If your keeping this truck long term, I would recommend looking for a used/crate engine 454 and swap it in, instead. A stock 454 will produce massive amounts of torque at low speeds that you will NEVER be able to get from that 366. The blocks mount identical, but the intakes will not swap. This would be close to the same amount of money spent (good quality SS headers VS used 454 long block) but WAY MORE of what you are looking for(torque at low rpms for pulling up hills).

[@captainkangaroo4301]

What about long tube vs. shortys?

[@shadow105720]

I think the main difference between a tri-y vs full length 4 into 1 is exactly that, length. Shorter length means the maximum scavenging happens at lower rpms aka where you peak torque where longer ones work at higher rpm to give you best scavenging at peak hp.

[@makantahi3731]

i am making 421 because of space, but all y are near of end of header, so difference should be less

[@electric7487]

3:35 The one on the right is by far one of the worst hack jobs I've ever seen.

[@craigmonteforte1478]

okay not very Sceintific but i’m 57 years old and over the years i’ve found as a whole Hooker Headers are usually the best value for the money and i’ve always had them hold up BTW i’ve mostly used them on American Automobiles and in a few applications i’ve even found them cheaper than the factory Exhaust Manifold replacement at my Autoparts stores

[@SuperSlik50]

Determining tube size depending of cubic inches? Horsepower? Or exhaust valve size?

[@AutoGuild]

Mostly HP, but also Cubic Inches.

[@20alphabet]

Primary tube size determined by rpm the motor will live at. Collector determined by hp.

[@SuperSlik50]

Question: in the 70’s we noticed that Mickey Thompson brand headers ( not available for very long) had a different sound, quite unique and we had heard that it was because it had a more square shaped collector, we could hear a difference, from other brands or maybe it was our imagination??

[@AutoGuild]

No idea, I had not heard that.

[@nrgrlsd9931]

What about wrapped headers? How do you feel about that? I also heard that ceramic headers are more likely to develop cracks

[@Agent.K.]

I heard wrapped crack fast especially if you do a lot of water crossing.

[@nrgrlsd9931]

@@Agent.K. I live in the desert southwest and only drive on city streets. What makes the wrapped headers crack besides water

[@dylangreen9819]

@@nrgrlsd9931 They say moisture gets trapped behind the wrap

[@willparker3170]

wrapping headers improves scavenging and drops underwood temps significantly. if your headers are mild steel they will rust out faster think 4-5 year lifespan vs 10+. if they are stainless steel it won’t effect the lifespan off the headers negatively. i wrapped mine and have no regrets in doing so. i noticed a little bit more power too

[@Agent.K.]

@@nrgrlsd9931 I should have mentioned, cold water. The sudden change in temperatures is the cause. But that’s for off-roaders to worry about. I don’t think it’s a problem for street cars.

[@SuperSlik50]

With the very thick flange will I still need locking header bolts?

[@AutoGuild]

Less likely. Try without then add if needed.

[@johntexan4165]

No mention of our expensive friend titanium.

[@manufacturingdefect1287]

I'mma head out downtown to look for some headers

[@youknowit8799]

You need to watch Mr. Vizard’s video on header length. He proves just the opposite and shows how unequal length makes more torque and hp. Your timing the pulses with which cylinder is firing after each other.

[@greebuh]

On a cross plane crank a merged collector is much more important than equal length tubes.

[@meademorgan6614]

Cyclone Headers had these cones you mention in the 80’s. They called them “anti-reversion cones. So nothing new here.

[@AdamNZ]

Tri-y is also called 4-2-1

[@triumph928]

Thanks for the video. I'm curious, have you done any research concerning Wave Dynamics and it's effects on exhaust flow?

[@AutoGuild]

No, thats over my head. It would be interesting to dive into it in more detail. Engineering Explained has a video on headers but to be honest I have not watched it yet.

[@anomilumiimulimona2924]

David Vizard has books on induction pulse tuning. But i thought exhaust scavenging is mainly a tri y header thing.

[@scootergeorge7089]

How important are equal length header tubes on a typical V8 engine when the exhaust pulses on each bank are not uniform. They are both 180 and 90 degrees crankshaft rotation apart.

[@jellofuel]

Think the only aspect missed is short tube vs long tube headers, but otherwise great video

[@davidrayner9832]

There are umpteen clips on You Tube about that but this is the first I've seen that mentions tri-Ys.

[@mrelectron6220]

@@davidrayner9832 Tri Y's are the auto equivalent of a uni corn. I have only seen one company advertise tri y and the application was very limited.

[@flinch622]

Almost. For a dual plane crank, each bank has two exhaust pulses arriving to the collector so close, it presents as one large pulse. Result? Unequal scavenging is the result of equal length headers.

[@BeReady726]

is OBX good?

[@albertolopez4594]

Do you think borla is a good brand of headers ? Hardly any reviews on them , only reviews of their catback exhausts

[@confuse3671]

Most off the shelf headers are made to fit, not necessarily tuned. Most are not equal length (Hooker Super Comp tend to be equal length - and of course custom headers - See Burns Stainless and Headers by Ed for examples)

[@albertolopez4594]

@@confuse3671 It sucks because I got a full Borla attack cat back exhaust but I just found out months ago Borla discontinued their long tube headers wanted a complete set

[@stevevet3652]

Should have explain the benefits between long tube headers and short tube headers.

[@WarriorOfEden3033]

Aluminum heat shields can work & be cheaper than coating

[@nikkosoriano]

What if you put thermal wrap on your headers to minimize engine bay heat?

[@Dappersworth]

Me and my brother put together an entirely custom exhaust for his truck, we used ceramic coated equal length headers because stainless was not available, the cost was roughly 500$ for the headers. The exhaust tubing was all stainless steel 304, except the H-pipe, (which was required because the truck only has one O2 sensor), which is mild steel galvanized with aluminum. We couldn't find an h pipe in 304 steel so yeah. It sounds like a fucking nascar at higher rpm.

[@20alphabet]

*My brother and I

[@Turningwrenchs]

Airborne is the coating we use

[@mikeverything4098]

Bro please help I ordered long tube headers and true duals exhaust for my trans am but the don’t look that long they are definitely not shortys but I have never seen long tubes in real life so I don’t know how long they should be they are single pipes to a single but it doesn’t look “long”

[@evcass69]

What year TA? ARH and Grotyohann (no longer available) were about 30" primary tube length, plus about 10" collector length. I suspect other vendors long tubes will be similar lengths.

[@mikeverything4098]

@@evcass69 it’s a 97 shell but 98-02 clone

[@Rooster1508]

I have built a few sets of headers using 304 0.062" 304 SS. If you are building, TIG weld with the inside purged with Argon. If you are buying SS headers look inside at the welds. They should be a gold/straw color. If the welds look black/nasty don't buy, poor welding.

[@falsebroadcast]

Hey good you tuber. Could u make a video on which piston types are good like material wise. And then what type of Conrad’s are good H rods or I beam conrods

[@jacquescrusan9500]

The question is what kind of engine are you trying to make, because the answer can be swayed greatly based on what you're looking for. As far as piston types: Cast- basic, production style that gets the job done so long as original design parameters aren't exceeded Hypereutectic- similar to cast pistons. However, with the alloy's high silicon content, the pistons are harder (think diamond versus talc), and don't expand very much, causing much tighter tolerances (gaps between components) to be achievable. Forged pistons (aluminum) there are two different alloys to really consider, 4032 alloy and 2618. 4032 is really good for maxing out a naturally aspirated engine combination because it's an aluminum forging with a significant silicon content (not to the extent of Hypereutectic, but still), is light, and doesn't expand as much under heating (silicon does that). 2618 alloy forgings are the go-to for high-output, high-strung forced induction builds that need the best that they can get for material strength. The one major drawback of 2618 forgings is that since they're a more pure Aluminum forging, they expand under heat far more than other alloys, and require the engine to be warmed up gently for a few minutes before being put to work. Also keep in mind that there are only 2 piston manufacturers at this moment that make their own forgings: Wiseco and Mahle. Every other manufacturer takes non-machined forgings from one of those two and adds their own machine-work, which makes them differ slightly. For connecting rods: Far and away the H-beam design is ultimately the stronger setup. It has a more robust cross-section, and in general is what handles power above 800-900 HP. But again, it all depends on how the engine is built. For instance, I'm rebuilding an LS engine for naturally aspirated performance, and I chose a set of I-beam connecting rods for the build. Main reason is that the engine's output won't exceed the strain capacity of the connecting rod, and an H-beam is a little overkill. I-beam rods are regularly lighter than their H-beam counterparts, which is important; decreasing mass from an engine's rotating assembly is one of the key parts in minimizing an engine's parasitic loss, along with decreasing drivetrain mass. As stated earlier, the same alloys are going to come into effect. hopefully they help inform your decision on what you want to do.

[@konnerkramer329]

If you can afford it I beam is always the way to go. If both rods are the same weight the I beam is stronger. If both rods are the same strength the I beam will be lighter.

[@AutoGuild]

Thanks for the reply, does this mean I dont need to make the video now. ;-)

[@konnerkramer329]

@@AutoGuild lol I don't think anyone would complain if you did

[@falsebroadcast]

@@AutoGuild yeah go ahead make it lot easier to understand in a video

[@GUEST-qw4te]

Unequal length headers actually have been proven to offer a wider rpm tuning point. An equal length header tunes at one specific point, much like a tuned port intake or a tuned pipe for a 2 cycle. Tri y headers offer even wider tuning rpm tuning bands.

[@v6pulsar]

+1

[@tahcogunworks]

You are correct. Unequal will be broader and less peaky. Especially with mufflers.

[@peterdarr383]

Additionally - - as the exhaust exists a V8 Chevy, 8 then 4 on the passenger side, you want 8 to be short and 4 to be long. On the driver's side it's 5 then 7 so you would want 7 to have a much longer tube than shorty headers usually provide. This will bring balance to the force.

[@GUEST-qw4te]

@@peterdarr383 I believe a header company did something like that...Super Tech iirc.??

[@bilaltariq7819]

This depends on the firing order. On a crossplane crank you'll have 2, maybe 3 cylinders fire too close together and so equal length won't work nicely. Ideally you'd pair all opposite firing cylinders together or make an 8 to 1 collector.

[@alikdouh369]

I need headers for Toyota Corolla 2014 hatchbacks zre182

[@donniebaker5984]

So my guess is you didn't mention 316 stainless as probably it's not cost-effective and not needed over 304 stainless? 316 stainless is used in power houses on the boiler pipes and steam pipes for thousands of PSI steam is involved so proudly way overkill for exhaust pipes I would imagine but yeah you're absolutely right there is nothing that will replace stainless steel headers like motorcycle headers are you getting a little buff job and you got that beautiful blue gold purple coming out of the cylinder head and today they sell Mufflers with an anodized look of hot stainless steel headers costing extra for the look