Extensive Engine Bay Temperature vs Ambient Air Temperature test

[@ZepolWorkzGarage]

On my D16z6 turbo build I had my intake up behind left headlamp it was getting heat soaked from turbo manifold. I moved my intake behind bumper where hole for fog lights would be and saw difference between 15-20 degrees. Does make big difference on those really hot days.

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@ZepolWorkzGarage oh yes the turbo set up does generate crazy crazy heat temp indeed like my friends red EG hatch it’s the same even on cruising

[@Alejandro-u7q7c]

In mine I can see a big difference as well, temperature wise and in performance. My filter is still in the engine bay, but I built a custom shield and ambient air is feeding right into it. I also built some shields for the manifold because it was overpowering my cooling system. Just by doing that my intake temps went from 120° F to around 90°.

[@SRDmotorsports]

@ that shield u made is good and especially if it’s in the factory location where at the bottom there’s a hole to get air from “ambient” source That’s a good move you did right there

[@Alejandro-u7q7c]

@@SRDmotorsports Thank you. Yes fortunately I was able to use the factory location, even though it was very tricky because the intercooler piping was in the way, but it was definitely worth the extra effort.

[@SRDmotorsports]

@ I was about to say… that’s a tricky task too with the turbo stuff taking space but that’s cool!! Good job on that

[@StraightOutThaGudda4U]

This is a really great experiment you're doing, really loved that you used different cars , learned a lot. Also, i think you should try one more test but on a car that is known to get heat soaked like the new type r, the engine bay gets so hot the car just makes less and less power, there's barely any ventilation so everything gets heat soaked. Awesome vid as always brother.

[@SRDmotorsports]

good point on that 🫡 hope I get a chance to test on the newer ones soon I really do

[@StraightOutThaGudda4U]

@SRDmotorsports awesome sounds good

[@SRDmotorsports]

Yes sir 🫡

[@Hondacrxdelsol33]

Interesting as always ralph!

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@Hondacrxdelsol33 yes sir! found some sensor guage and probe for roughly $48 so quickly got two for this test = made it fun actually so definitely worth it and worth sharing 😎

[@stevel.2759]

To bring temps down. You can use a remote switch controlled Spal fan, 21.8 amps, 12"on a 40 amp relay to battery. IAT's stabilize way better. Engine temps too. Keep it on after warm up the whole time. Gold DEI tape is great on intake and top of radiator too since it heat soaks the bay.

[@SRDmotorsports]

yup

[@Kasev309]

You should measure the intake temperature from the sensor itself; that would be best to see what the car ECU receives. I have done this with Hondash, and in traffic jams, the stock airbox and the short ram differ by about 5 degrees. However, once you get moving, the stock box cools the air faster. Otherwise, great testing, and I love your channel!

[@SRDmotorsports]

but the whole test was because on the dyno it’s at stand still and they always say close the hood to be realistic due to heat soak… the test was to show that their notion is correct on a “parked car” only I agree with your findings on the short ram being only 5 degrees apart on stand still and the stock airbox because it’s getting air from under the headlight area behind the bumper it gets cooler and denser air due to vehicle motion in the near future we would re do this test but this time on a highway just to be safe 😂

[@Kasev309]

I think for dyno tuning, it’s best to do it with the hood open to achieve maximum power from colder air. This way, when you drive the car on cold mornings, you can get maximum performance. Once it heat soaks, there’s nothing you can do. That’s just my opinion; I may be wrong.

[@martinp8427]

Great video! I am really cheering you in the direction to test gold heat wrap - as you have mentioned before it will work, I just wonder how much in terms of actual horsepower or torque gains! Even if there are no measurable gains, if cooler mixture is detected, this is a win on it's own. Second to that - phenolic gaskets. There should be phenolic throttle body gaskets for Honda engines, right? One more step for dropping air temperatures. Third - exhaust heat wrap. Proven to work, but maybe no benefits on it's own, I wonder if added to the above mods will generate modest improvements? All three combined sound like a good way to lower engine bay temperatures and intake air temperatures. On a different topic - engine bay grounding. You have mentioned additional ground earth straps. How about throwing in something like D1 or HKS voltage stabilizer? Also on engines with upgraded ignition coil - adding a second ground wire from the coil negative to the engine. I wonder what you think on all those things and if you can test them, that would be awesome!

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@martinp8427 true on the phenolic gasket I know for Honda there is some for even the throttle body so that def helps… On the exhaust wrap I know u can physically feel it to be less warmer on the engine bay even when parked so that’s an interesting thought indeed to bring it up

[@ferdinandbenjaminco9113]

Present!

[@SRDmotorsports]

yes sir! Debunking old adage? 😉

[@james_EK9]

Loving the real world tests and appreciate the time put into them. If i look at the results of your last few videos is the conclusion simply that a cold air intake makes more power not necessarily because it has access to colder air (because once the car is moving there isnt really much of a difference versus the short ram)...but more to do with the length of the pipe itself? Your tests have proved on the dyno that a CAI makes more power but why have you a short ram on your own car? Just curious! My engine builder and tuner also previously said that in his experience the b series at least always liked an intake a little more on the longer side than a SRI

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@james_EK9 yesssssss glad you saw it …one of the main reasons for the tests earlier and this one is because “people” fixated on the name cold air intake… When it was really the induction length that does something different and your engine builder and tuner sees the same… it was a fun test none the less and def fun to share with everyone… I mean we realize some always has a lot to say but nothing really do show for… but hey …thats life there will always be bad apples in a bunch haha Notice some are still hung up on the “cold” name when it was really the induction length

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@james_EK9 truest story on the SRI on my esi (red eg) the front fender has ripped up to no fender liners as of now (lazy to buy as I rarely use the car lol) plus kinda lazy to remove the bumper or tires just to place the filter and bracket haha my bad 😂🤣 On Nikko’s though I know he plans to fab up the rest to make a CAI as his personal business involves Stainless works so pretty sure he can whip up something Only dilemma now is testing intake manifold is gonna be hard , removal and install and re dyno but trying to figure out a way around it so let’s hope one day 🙏

[@james_EK9]

@@SRDmotorsports you have made this all so clear to understand in just a few videos! It is amazing how much false information is out there from people who have no proof, no tests etc. and just have this idea in their mind planted there by the advertising and marketing departments from the companies trying to sell the parts 😅 But that is business at the end of the day and the name of the game is to sell parts and earn revenue! From your tests I guess what is also important then is to try keep the actual intake hardware, like the intake pipe and intake manifold, as cool as possible. If you are stationary at the start of the quarter mile strip and your engine bay temps are hotter than ambient temperature, then the aluminium intake pipe and the manifold itself could suffer from that heat transfer. When the lights go out and you accelerate, your tests have proven the engine bay temps will drop very quickly but the actual aluminium could retain some heat for longer, which may warm the air travelling through the system to the intake ports...not sure if the air is even in the intake pipe or runners for long enough to suffer from that, but just brainstorming....sorry for the essays! It's tough to find real world test carried out by people with good intentions haha

[@james_EK9]

@@SRDmotorsports an intake manifold test would be amazing and a true like-for-like test is something missing in the Honda community over the years...at least from my extensive searching...especially with some of the bigger manifolds like the S2 Ultra Race, the Gato, K-Tuned etc.. But i also understand that it is very time consuming and can also be a very expensive test to carry out. If I were close to you I'd definitely offer my ported S2 Ultra Race up for testing but I'm all the way in Ireland so that would be tough haha One topic I also done a lot of searching for and have tried to find some information and comparisons for is testing intake pipe diameters...like a 3inch vs 3.5 inch vs a tapered design may be even going from a 3.5inch down to a 3inch etc. But again at least for the b series anything more than 3 inch is hard to find and would likely require some custom fabrication of various intake arms to complete. I have settled on testing a 3.5inch arm on my 2.1L B series and will be going for a longer intake arm based on your findings...so thanks for that ha! If money allows I will try get a short arm vs long arm test and see if the results align with what you have tested

[@SRDmotorsports]

@ that’s one thing that’s on my mind too… on atleast 3k rpm the airspeed may not be slow enough to deal with thermal transfer/time but it won’t hurt to keep the surface cold (pipes) at the strip, it’s maybe why we notice some prefer to push the car to the start line or tow it with an atv vs drive it there…part of the reason might be the heat generated when that slow… interesting indeed I’m lucky to make a video in sequence without any other project vid disrupting it…maybe that’s why it was quick for u to get it all along I mean… imagine if the vid was months apart? Might have to make sure the title connects it with part 1 part 2 😂

[@Georgi_Chakov]

Just a suggestion, try the same thing but with the probe attached to the front side of the cone filter to really measure the the temperature where the engine is feeding from.

[@SRDmotorsports]

I guess it never stops… first hood must be closed and all… we know where the prob was is closer to the filter than the engine so it did good… but similar to ur comment we got another thing planned up in the future…(but we might need 3 sensor and guage) hopefully we can purchase more temperature guage/probe to do the fun test again gonna give u props on that vid for the suggestion for sure 🙏

[@Georgi_Chakov]

@SRDmotorsports it's not like criticising or anything but i've done some testing on my own and the coldest spot of the whole engine bay is next to the battery. It's like an old ghetto trick to throw the IAT sensor behind the battery to measure cold and run a bit richer and not pulling ignition off. At the same time at 18 degrees ambient i'm reading 38-43 degrees Intake temperature from the ECU with the stock air box. So the right thing is the logical thing to measure directly Infront of the filter from where the engine is feeding not from the back.

[@SRDmotorsports]

alright

[@SRDmotorsports]

Sadly Nikko’s car isn’t with us as he took it home that day… but looks like we can do a quick video on Friday maybe around 5-6mins only to try that and have the probe near the filter I have a feeling it could be “colder” a bit since it’s closer to the front where the bumper grill is at speeds 40kmh upwards But let us see

[@Georgi_Chakov]

@@SRDmotorsports it's worth testing especially if the car car is with naked headers without heat wrap or any kind of heat shield, because yes it blows air in but also desapate the heat from the headers and the radiator inside the front of the engine bay.Also a big minus that i found out while testing with whale pe*is was when the coolant fan kicks in it blows 90+ degrees heat directly at the side of the filter and the intake temperature rised up with 10 degrees automatically. This type of content i like where you debunk stuff and test real life situations big thumbs up for you mate!

[@frias2287]

Very nice

[@SRDmotorsports]

glad u liked this one man 🫡

[@frias2287]

@SRDmotorsports welcome brother

[@SRDmotorsports]

yes sir! 🙏

[@SRDmotorsports]

Here’s the earlier engine bay test we did kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqmyeoSebs6In5Ysi=E3dJONWJTikFqGMN

[@AllmotorTurbo]

What do you think is more silent exhaust, 20'x4' or 4'x20'? Same cc but longer pipe is better for gas velocity? Sorry for this question)

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@AllmotorTurbo as long as the exhaust is made of the same good quality… the “longer” one will be more quiet actually

[@sheldonblack2520]

Wouldn't the engine bay get hotter during sustained hi rpm driving

[@SRDmotorsports]

in theory yeah but let’s not neglect airflow and aerodynamics …there is a reason why the bumper grill is exactly where the “high pressure zone” is… in any case these tests were about “keeping the hood closed” on the dyno cuz “they” say that’s real world and these videos shows it ain’t as real world as they think… that is why I mentioned vehicle speed… 40km/h vs 60km/h diff was significant and that def didn’t see the same load (takes more effort to get to 60 than 40)

[@sheldonblack2520]

@SRDmotorsports ok well true it definitely show that Dyno is not like real world but I'm just wondering about the HP gains to be had due to temp differences when driving hard I know I will gain due to length of intake but will I gain by temp differences

[@SRDmotorsports]

yeah good point on the possible gains… and cuz I got these sensor guage and probe now? it would always be in a car in use and so whenever we get a chance to cruise the freeway? Il def document it and come up with a video here for all of us…already that’s the exciting part 😎

[@BucudNino22]

This may be unrelated but Does Too advanced Ignition Timing related To Hard Starting When Hot Or Does the issue come from somewhere else?

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@BucudNino22 oh hey cool question… well in theory with timing a bit retard it should make it easier to start, so yeah a little too advanced especially when hot tends to give it a hard time starting and that’s common i see often…. Unrelated question? That’s fine 😎

[@BucudNino22]

@SRDmotorsports thanks 🔥

[@SRDmotorsports]

no problem man 🙏

[@jophatb3945]

It could be something with the ignition or sensor. I've had a few ignition control modules act like that. Coils too

[@SRDmotorsports]

true true…just that he asked about “too advanced” so it tells me either he knows he advanced it or has no way in checking ignition advance in the distributor… and having the distributor too advance does tend to make it hard starting… Coil is either will start or won’t start it’s either functioning or dead… the igniter though is a diff story 😎