F250 350 130 Amp Alternator 🌌

First of all I want to make sure that it's clear that this is not an exact how to video I am showing this to explain how I made it work for me and my vehicle. So do your research before you mess with your electrical system because it is always dangerous if electrical causes overheating which in turn could cause a fire. Now with that said this was a great upgrade to allow me to run my extra battery in the back of my truck like I used to in my F-150. Because guys have been following me for some time though that I used to have an F-150 and this winch setup was in the back of it and I used it to pull mowers and outdoor power equipment up into the bed of my truck. Even though I got rid of the F-150 I didn't get rid of the winch setup and now it's in the back of this F250. Also I do a lot of Towing of my RV and I've always wanted to have the ability to connect a battery that was in the truck to the battery that is on the RV or at least run a wire that may trickle charge to the battery on the RV as I drive down the road to keep it charged up. This alternator swap is what they call the 3G or 3rd Generation alternator and it is a conversion from 95 amp to a 130 amp. This is a conversion that I did on my F150 with a 5.0 small block V8 and it was easy it was no more than me going to the wrecking yard and buying an alternator off of a Explorer and that allowed me to build it up directly however on this F250 with a big block 7.5 liter 460 it was a whole different ballgame because the only 130 amp alternator that was offered was a wide-spaced mounting option that one at work with the majority of the 460 engines that were put into these as well as the F350. So with a little finagling and having to reclock the alternator and switch out Regulators I got it to work and I'm happy that I did and in this video I'll discuss how you might be able to avoid a lot of the hassle that I did to get it to work by just skipping a few steps. Thanks for watching.

[@franciscocampos9067]

I got my parts to do then 130 amp. The alternator from a 94-95 Sn95 mustang and as for the the wires and 75amp big fuse i got it off a 2000s Lincoln Ls pop the trunk and removed the spare tire.

[@walperstyle]

I really, REALLY hope you do a full video on EGR removal and AIr pump removal.

[@Foxboss9]

Sorry, since it is already off I can't shoot a video on how..plus I can remember how short the belt was or anything, plus I installed headers at the same time so I didn't have to worry about air injection tubes that will need blocked off if trying to retain the manifolds..

[@SaturdayNiteSpecial]

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you for doing this video. Will be putting one on my big block this month!

[@Foxboss9]

✔😁

[@esmith836]

very cool video! I enjoy your videos with lawn mowers and trucks. you have a lot of fantastic info and you explain things great!😀

[@Foxboss9]

Thanks!! Really glad you like the videos!! Unfortunately I have been slowly moving away from small engine repair and do a lot of online work now, However I will always be repairing my vehicles and my RV repairs will be mixed in on my other channel kzbin.info

[@OregonVacations]

This video is very helpful. Infact the whole series of videos are helpful and valuable. I have an F250 that is very similar to the one in the series. I am in the process of putting a 3G 130 amp on my 97 F250 7.5. The 3G is indeed 8-1/4 inches ear hole to ear hole. The new physically larger Alt fit in the lower bracket but the upper stamped steel bracket will not work. The new 130 amp unit is the big-eared case as shown that presents a challenge to anyone doing this alternator upgrade. So using the original upper bracket for lower bolt holes template I am building a new upper bracket. The old bracket could be cut apart and modified, but it is best for me just to take some 1/4 inch steel plate and construct a new bracket. I ordered an upper universal slotted bracket and I am in the process of fitting and welding a new custom UPPER bracket using in part the universal bracket. I ordered my new Alt from DB Electric listed as an option for my '97 F250 7.5 and it is clocked properly and advertized to be regulated properly for this truck. (we will see). The wiring sockets and plugs are the same. IT is reported that the 3G type ALT puts out significantly more amps at engine idle rpm than the 2G ALT which is a great feature to this 3G conversion. So again, instead of changing front alternator housing, I am making a custom top bracket as the strategy for the upgrade. This is because I have welding and fab experience and like the idea of just being able to change ALTs if the one I am upgrading into fails-- just another plug and play if that happens if I have suitable brackets. lIt bothers me that the heater hose is so close and makes light contact with the new ALT, but that will not be too hard to re-engineer.

[@Foxboss9]

As far as the heater hose just take a larger rubber hose slice it down the middle and place it over top of the heater hose for a protective cover against abrasion.

[@michaelCrusader90]

I enjoy ur videos great info, keep it up my wife and me are also full time rvers. Got a 92 f-350 dually with a 460, had diesels all my life allot of them were 92-96 ford f-350s. Anyways long story short we switched to gasoline and never going back yes not the best mileage but I also pull a 2003 mustang behind trailer and that's are get around car. Anyways ur videos have greatly benefited us. So thank you God bless.

[@Topsnap_Podcast]

Awesome... The Podcast Truck Broke.. now we're gonna fix it ourselves.. MANY THANKS.. GOD BLESS

[@capecodcuda]

Build an 130 amp alternator in the junkyard 🛠

[@Fitsixxoh]

Not confusing at all thanks bud so much

[@Fitsixxoh]

I’m gonna do the conversion here soon I’m only rocking 1 big battery currently and my voltage needle is about on the R while driving nighttime driving with headlights about at the O I feel most of it comes from only having 1 battery but I’ve been meaning to upgrade the alternator but once I seen the prices 400-500 for 320 amps I slowed my roll thanks so much for your content

[@alexmazzilli9417]

I’m working on doing this on a 4.9. The factory alternator bracket has mounting points for it

[@Milner62]

This video was good, it helped me out as I was trying to find a 8 1/4" spacing 95A 3G and I have heard they made them and others say they never were made. Every one I found is just like your 95A with the recessed opening in the ears. Seeing the 130A you installed without the recessed opening in the ears tells me that your 95A is the smaller 7" pivot which would not work for me. Guess I will have to run the 130A and figure out a way to not have belt slippage to the point it throws my V belt.

[@wmhoffman1622]

I just ordered a 130 amp from Advanced Auto that would be a fit for the 95 250 xlt with the 460

[@robertsitch1415]

Unfortunately many newer vehicles don't have a voltage Guage so it is hard to know if you have a under or over voltage issue when the battery light comes on.

[@billydarley6925]

its called a multimeter. they also sell 12v socket plug ins with a digital voltage display.

[@TheFoxShop]

Great video, lots of information there. I have not upgraded my alternator, but have thought about it for years. I believe the 130amp version came on trucks with the ambulance package.. maybe you could order it with the 130amp in a regular truck, Im not sure to be honest. I do believe there are versions that will bolt right up in your truck, at least for the 302 and 351 engines, again not positive about the 460. I know I have seen people talk about this and some fab up new brackets, but then other say you can buy a 130amp alternator that bolts right up. Again, I am not 100% certain on this as I have not done it myself.. but may as I think my voltage regulator may not be functioning properly. When cold, as in the air temp is cold, I get some rapid slightly dimming light (headlights, interior lights) until the truck gets good and warmed up. Not sure why these trucks came with just a 95amp alternator, yet like you said a Taurus and other cars came with 130amp. Doesnt make sense to me. Great video!

[@billydarley6925]

power options, windows seats ect

[@Turbotalkin]

I watch both of your guys vids 😂🙈

[@rashadjackson8]

Could one of these 130a alternators be used on an 1996 f150 wanting to go electric fans and ditching the clutch fan also want to use bbk under pulleys

[@Foxboss9]

I had a 1995 F150.... When I upgraded that one I bought it from the Auto parts store and it bolted straight up.... No modifications at all... Just tell them you want the higher amp alternator

[@timgraham7851]

Does anyone have the part or engineering number for the 130a regulator?

[@droseph91]

VR443 , VR455 , VR906 or CR355

[@alec4453]

About to be doing this swap as well, trying out the ultima 130amp from o rileys, having a hard time finding a regulator for it, would you happen to have a part number? Thanks in advance

[@droseph91]

VR443 , VR455 , VR906 or CR355

[@TheGaginator]

I noticed at 13:10 you capped off the coolant line T that goes between the heater hose, and the top of the radiator under the cap. Can you tell me why you did that? i really enjoy your videos! I just bought a 1996 F250 4x4 with the 7.5L that needs a fair bit of work. Just rebuilt the transmission, and i have alot more to do

[@Foxboss9]

No reason other than cleaner appearance... Every once in a while after I did that I would have coolant forced past a heater core hose if my thermostat hadn't fully opened and I did a full throttle blast... But only occasionally...

[@SaturdayNiteSpecial]

Hey Foxboss, any chance you could do a video of battery cable upgrades?

[@Foxboss9]

SaturdayNiteSpecial I don't have any plans on doing that in the near future but I have considered doing what they could all the Big 3 conversion. I know it's a good idea but I'm actually more interested right now installing my battery isolator so I can connect my winch battery in the bed of my truck. It's a good suggestion though. I'll keep it in mind. Thanks for asking!

[@SaturdayNiteSpecial]

Foxboss9 thanks! Looking forward to the isolator video. Have considered adding one for a small cooler/fridge in my crew cab

[@wmhoffman1622]

OK, what I discovered was that all this is unnecessary -- just move you original adjustment mount so that the lower block mount bolt goes into the upper one and your upper bolt bracket eye stays free -- it tightens down solid enough and can adjust with the original belt just fine -- might want to put some lock washers on it though ?

[@Foxboss9]

Wm Hoffman I have never had an alternator that only secured with one Bolt. There is a lot of vibration and torque that alternator Mount sees and I have a tendency to think that you're going to see it fail. And if it doesn't fail at bare minimum you're going to go through belts prematurely. I would never suggest anyone mount an alternator with only one Bolt supporting it. Even though the bracket May cradle it and Supply some additional support it's not enough if it's not attached securely to that support point.

[@billydarley6925]

@@Foxboss9 can knock it if it works. maybe he just figured out another way to get the job done.

[@Keeterbob]

What is the part number for the correct VR that you put on the Taurus alt.

[@Foxboss9]

stock 1997 f250 with 460 30amp alternator VR... The weird 30 amp alt that came with some 460's won't mount up BUY, the voltage regulator will work on the taurus alternator..

[@johnvirgilsgarage]

I am doing this same swap on my 460 F250. Could you please provide the part number belonging to the correct 130amp regulator? I need the part number asap to get my swap completed and I can't find it online anywhere. Thanks!

[@Foxboss9]

John Virgil I ordered the factory regulator that was optional on the big body alternators for the 460 F-250 F-350. Basically, some 460 came factory with a bigger 140 amp alternator. The problem is the mounting holes of that bigger alternator was spread too far apart to work in the trucks like mine that didn't come with one from the factory. However if you can get the correct front half you can mount the factory 140 alternator that could have been optioned for your truck. You just have to swap out the front mounting half. But as far as the regulator is concerned, you can just order what came on some of the 460 with the 140 amp alternator.

[@johnvirgilsgarage]

Foxboss9 Ya that's the part number I'm looking for. I haven't been able to find the regulator anywhere for the big alternator...only one I can find is for the 95amp unit. I'm running the small case 130amp 3g alternator from a 95 mustang but that regulator is not working great.

[@Foxboss9]

John Virgil I just wanted to the parts store and ask for the regulator. They went through the options and one of them was for 140 amp alternator and I said yep that's the one.

[@johnvirgilsgarage]

Foxboss9 ha ya my parts store guys had no idea. Thanks anyway

[@droseph91]

CR355 , VR443 , VR455 or VR906