Falcon F16V3 Ammo Box Build Breakdown

[@MartinBauer-ats]

A friend just sent me this link - I must say that your work is not only impeccable but it is a real " WORK OF ART " I will be proudly sharing this further to my friends and family so that they can see an example of what I respect and consider to be FEC "Fantastic Electronics Crafstmanship" Thank You for sharing this !

[@charlesjenkinsjr.9769]

Thank you soooooo much for this! I built the box on the left and it ran my whole show with 0 issue. I was amazed at how I hardly used any Power Injection and it still came out super nice. Some runs had close to 350 pixels Over 60 feet @ 25%, and was minimal degradation. Going to build your CG 1500 for next seasons add-ons! Much appreciated! Thanks Again!

[@NiFamilyLights]

Congrats!!!

[@odgpatriot]

Thank you for going into such detail on your build. I am going to try to replicate what you have done here.

[@gregoryross6874]

That is IMPRESSIVE!

[@MrBlack2white]

Great job Steve, I really like your build. I will use you mega tree box setup.

[@ron4u2m]

Very nice job,clean and professional, thanks for sharing..

[@LibertyLaneLights]

You have serious assembly skills! Few with technical skills can also build cleanly! Your cables probably need better labeling? Nice work! Thanks for sharing

[@RLeeErmy]

Great build. Thanks for making this video!

[@li2buenafe]

Like your setup. Can you share a simplified diagram connection for all those power line and electronic board components connection. would appreciate it so much. Tenx.

[@NiFamilyLights]

Tenx, thanks for the comment. I don’t have a diagram to share but the connections aren’t too complicated. The AC power coming in goes to the right three terminals of the power supply for Line (hot, usually black), Neutral (usually white), and Ground (usually black). As shown in the video, you can link up power supplies to the same incoming AC power line. For the DC side, the left set of terminals of the power supplies usually have 3 terminals for V+ and 3 terminals for V-. For the board components, each board’s input power terminals require a V+ and V- (also referenced as ground). This is NOT the same as the AC side ground. You’ll want to connect the V+/V- from the power supply to each component. In my builds, I have each component being powered by its own dedicated power supply. This includes the F16V3, each side has a power input and each side gets power from its own power supply. Some people use one power supply to power multiple components. This is ok as long as you do some math to prevent overloading the power supply. Hope this helps you.

[@malcolmpellerine7288]

top notch build .great ideas for my first build ...mega tree 32x100

[@abhijitdasz]

Great video. Really breaks down the build to easy understanding. One question i had was, when connecting two PSUs, you have live, neutral, ground from the AC line jumped between the PSUs, but what is the 4th black line?

[@NiFamilyLights]

Thanks! The far right 3 wires are for connecting the top and bottom power supply AC connections. The black wire to the left of those 2 wires is to bond the DC V- between power supplies. Don’t do that with the V+, just the V-. This ensures that you don’t get data corruption if you power inject pixels across the two power supplies.

[@chrisburkhalter7361]

This is awesome thank you for the google dock with the material list I’m definitely going to be using a lot of what you have going on here it’s a beautiful build

[@NiFamilyLights]

Thanks! I have to say that this is the 4th year using the exact same controller builds. I'm just as happy with them today as I was during the first year they were used in 2017. They have been reliable with no issues.

[@ToxicFlies13]

I have watched all your videos multiple times. Preparing for a new display this year. Going from traditional to pixels. Question is where do you get the pig tails for the boxes I didn't see them on your parts list.

[@NiFamilyLights]

Thanks for the comment and glad to hear that all the videos have been useful. Regarding your question, the pigtails used in the controller builds were purchased from the vendors where I also ordered my pixels. You should be able to source those female connectors with your specific connector end (Ray Wu, X-Connect, etc) from most any pixel vendor companies. They are typically 14” to 18” long and work great. Best of luck through your transition from tradition lights to pixels!

[@ronchazin7280]

Nice video, thanks for posting the BOM too.

[@chrisdillingham928]

What enclosure is this and can you link me up with a vendor for it please?

[@NiFamilyLights]

The enclosure is the MTM ACR8-72 Ammo Crate Utility Box with 7.25" Deep, Large, Dark Earth. You can get it from Amazon or other online retailers.

[@randybaron5190]

This is very nice build Steve. I’m using bud box 32026 for controller and 2 diff expansion. I’m running out of space for the 9 cable passthru glands. Can the cat 6 cable be bent in any direction without causing connection issues? Tks

[@NiFamilyLights]

Thanks for the comment Randy. Controller build boxes can get cozy. The cat6 cables shown in this video have one straight end and one 90 degree end. The cable itself is very soft and pliable, so it’s possible you could immediately turn the cable without issues. You just don’t want to do any extreme turns which could flex the internal wires so much that they fatigue and break internally.

[@botoepfer8588]

great video Thanks

[@randybaron5190]

Hi Steve thank you for sharing your build. Very helpful to newbies like me. May I know how you mounted the Le an plate at the bottom to the ammo box. I have an ammo box but I can’t find a place to screw in the plate. Thanks for your help. Randy

[@NiFamilyLights]

Randy, you're most welcome, and I'm glad you found the video helpful. The lexan plate on the bottom is just sitting in the ammo crate. It's not physically attached in any way. So, the build has to sit flat, and this also ensure no water can get in from the bottom.

[@randybaron5190]

@@NiFamilyLights thank you Steve. Good thing I asked you before I started drilling the bottom. Very good info.

[@snistr]

What a fantastic build. Do you happen to have a tutorial or how to guide for connecting the volt and amp meters to the power supplies?

[@NiFamilyLights]

Thanks for the comment. Although I have the meters in the controller on this build, I have simplified later builds and not used them at all. They do look nice but unnecessarily complicate the wiring. Once setup, voltages of the power supply outputs don’t ever change. Modern controllers have LEDs on each output, so you’ll know right away if a bank of lights are out indicating that a power supply is out. If you do want to put them in, I do cover how to wire up these meters in this video at 6:47. Good luck with your builds. m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/sF64hKd8pK57j5o

[@snistr]

@@NiFamilyLights thankyou so much for the information and advise. Ill just leave them out. 👍👍👍

[@vanherps1]

Do you have info on the pigtail connectors? Gauge, length

[@NiFamilyLights]

Todd, the pigtails are standard 18AWG, 18”, 3 core, female pre-made pigtails. Order the ones that match the pixel connections you purchase (Eg xConnect or Ray Wu). Most vendors sell this type of pigtail.

[@robertbates2747]

This by far is the best build I’ve seen, which I intend to duplicate. Do you have a list of the items used, excluding the controllers and power supplies?

[@NiFamilyLights]

[Edited 1/7/21] Robert, I posted the build of materials (BOM) and sources of all the materials in a doc linked in the description.

[@charlesjenkinsjr.9769]

With the Ammo Box on the left, can you use powered injection to anything coming off the Falcon v16 without having to separate/splice the positive wire? Do you have to treat the injection coming from the other two power supplies like injection from a. Separate power supply?

[@NiFamilyLights]

Charles, for your first question, the answer is yes. You could power your pixels from the F16 and also power inject in other places of the prop without breaking the V+ line. There's two things to consider when doing so. 1) You should definitely do the math and give yourself plenty of "reserve" current to make sure you don't inadvertently end up powering more pixels than you think at the power injection point doing it this way. 2) The other thing to consider is potentially having one power supply "drive" another. The V+ from one power supply may be higher than the V+ of a separate power supply. Since you'll essentially have the V+ connected to each other within the prop, you may run into a situation where the difference in voltages will cause one power supply to then be sending power to another power supply. Inexpensive power supplies like the ones I use do not have built in protection to prevent this, so it could cause damage to the power supplies. Higher quality power supplies like the Meanwells have built-in protection to prevent this condition. Meanwell calls this "parallel operation", also known as "current sharing" capable. Question 24 on this Meanwell FAQ shows a wiring diagram, www.meanwell.com/qa.aspx. Again, doing this could inadvertently draw more power than you think with your power injection lines, so be sure to plan accordingly to not overload your power injection wires. Now, if all the power is coming from the same power supply, you don't have to worry about the 2nd condition stated above.

[@Scottie_70]

Can you please tell me how to wire those digital volt/amp meters in the controller box? I only have one power supply

[@NiFamilyLights]

Hi Scott, I show how to wire up the V/A meters at 6:47 in this video, m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/sF64hKd8pK57j5o

[@charlesjenkinsjr.9769]

Setup is soooo clean! What is the advantage of having all grounds tied together on power supplies?

[@NiFamilyLights]

Thanks Charles! You want to tie the DC Grounds together primarily so that the data signal doesn't get corrupted across your pixel props. For example, you run power and data from a controller output, then use a power distro board output to power inject to extend the run to other props. If the distro board power injection point's ground varies from the initial data/power output, the data signal will likely get lost (or corrupted).

[@williamdoyle7887]

Your rj45 couplers keep the water out of the box. But it looks to me that water can get into connection on the outside? Are these couplers good? Trying to keep my cost down, and am finding that rj45 waterproof couplers are pricey. What's your thoughts our suggestions. Thanks

[@NiFamilyLights]

The couplers used in these videos have worked great to keep water out of the box. I've used 4 of these builds for 4 years with no issues. I am mindful to keep the network cables plugged in physically hanging lower than the coupler to the box so that they don't draw water towards the connection.

[@williamdoyle7887]

@@NiFamilyLights Thank you for the info.

[@denn450]

hi there i want to connect other power supply to my controller advatek controller to port 9 to 16 to do so could i add a other ac wire to power supply 2 and connect negative and postive to v2 and plug that power supply into wall socket so that means i would have 2 separate wires to plug into wall or is there a better way thank you for your help and then from port 9 to 16 i could use that power supply to power inject also

[@NiFamilyLights]

Hi Den Bel, thanks for your comment. You can certainly add a second power supply and tie them together (in parallel) while using a single AC power cord to go to your house wall outlet. See the video at 18:12. There, I show how I connect two power supplies together, and they share a common house AC plug.

[@johnjahner3389]

Is it ok to have both 5volt and 12Volt power supplies in the box

[@NiFamilyLights]

Yes, it's fine to have a mix of 5V and 12V power supplies in the box. You'll just want to be sure your pigtails coming out of the box are labeled well so you don't have 12V going to 5V pixels and vice versa.

[@angeles35124]

Hi can you tell me what size a fuse you use, for a f16v

[@NiFamilyLights]

The fusing size can be debated. I use 25A fuses between the power supply and the F16 board. However, I believe each power input to the board is rated for 20A. That rating should be verified but I’ve not ever had any issue with the setup. After running a bunch of tests with real world pixels, rarely will any single output draw anywhere near 5A. So, the possibility of driving all outputs at the max is highly unlikely. The 5A board fuses and 25A fuse from the power supply are really there to cut power should there be a short somewhere. I’ve had 5A fuses go but never the 25A power supply fuse. Good luck!

[@m3rdpwr]

Very clean.

[@NiFamilyLights]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@justmailroshan123]

Very nice work! I am going to try and replicate this. Question - Does the air vent compromise the waterproofing? I am in NJ and get some snow during christmas

[@NiFamilyLights]

Thanks for the comment Roshan. The air vents do not compromise weather proofing. They are designed specifically for this type of purpose. The outer piece has a rubber gasket that seals up against the enclosure housing. The interior screw piece is used to tighten the outer piece with the rubber o-ring gasket to seal the opening from water ingress. The opening of the vent should be pointed downward so water can’t naturally get into your enclosure. My boxes are used outside in the rain and snow and have had no water ingress over 5 years of use. The exhaust fan mounted to the interior of the right vent is blowing air out. Be sure to orient the fan properly so you aren’t accidentally blowing air in and potentially drawing water into the enclosure. Good luck with your build!

[@NkySpike65]

Great job!

[@denn450]

hi there great video im new in doing pixel i have a question i have total 1,455 5 volts pixel ws2811 in my props running at 30 percent brightness i have a advatek controller and 350 watt power surply could the power surply handle that and if not how could i connect other power surply thank you

[@NiFamilyLights]

Hi den bel, thanks for the comment. You should have no problem powering that many pixels with one power supply. Each 5V pixel uses about 0.3W at 100% brightness on full white (with all 3 LEDs on). So, 1,455 x 0.3W/pixel x 0.3 (brightness) = 131W, which is well below the 350W capacity of your power supply. In reality, you’ll end up using less power than that due to voltage drops across the string of 5V pixels. Good luck with your setup!

[@denn450]

thanks alot for helping me i will power inject also on my props have a good day

[@aaronpalusso]

For your build... the Bolt Depot links are not working. Do you have any more detail around the m3x12mm (bolts, hex bolts, screws???), m3x16mm (bolts, nuts???), m4x8mm (bolts, nuts????)

[@NiFamilyLights]

Aaron Plausso, thanks for pointing out that the links to BoltDepot aren't working. It appears that they changed their website, so the links to the items changed. I updated the linked BOM to reflect the website's new URLs. Best of luck with your build.

[@johnnagy1575]

Cool. But how does all those electronics work. ?

[@NiFamilyLights]

Hi John, in a nutshell, the Falcon pixel controllers convert show data streams (from a Falcon Pi Player computer like a Raspberry Pi or a Beagle Bone Black OR from a PC running xScheduler) to pixel compliant (WS2811 in my case) data streams. The controller also supplies DC power for the pixels. The choice of pixel controller is based on your needs (how many outputs you want/need, how many pixels per output, and how consolidated or distributed your pixels are in your show). That’s a basic description. There are other good videos at the xLights video repository in the xEssentials series. Since you asked, I may put together a brief intro covering the basic pieces to a show once the season is over and I have access to all the components.

[@KW_Lights]

What fuse are you using in your auto fuse that is between the power supply and the boards?

[@NiFamilyLights]

The fuses are standard ATC auto fuses. I most commonly use 20A or 25A fuses between the power supply and a control board.

[@KW_Lights]

@@NiFamilyLights Thank you! I'm in the process of ordering everything I need to do my roof line for my first year. Only thing I seem to have trouble finding is pixels. I decided to go with Kulp controllers as they look like a nice affordable option. Have you ever used them?

[@NiFamilyLights]

KW, I have not used Kulp controllers. However, it is a great product, so you should do well with it. I personally like the Falcon controllers as there are fewer parts to deal with.

[@LordHog]

A few items generally I don't see posted as the wire gauge size ran to the LED strips/strings. What gauge wiring to you use? Second, are you powering one all the boxes from one power rail/circuit breaker line coming from the electrical panel? 15 AMP breaker? 20 AMP breaker? Or using multiple power rail/circuit break line? Thanks for this video, it is very informative.

[@NiFamilyLights]

LordHog, thanks for your comment. LED strips/strings wire gauge is based on what the vendor of the lights supplies. In general, 18AWG 3 wire is "standard" for the low voltage pixel pigtails and pixels. That said, it's probably more 20AWG in reality. For the AC power coming to the controller boxes, there's 4 - 350W power supplies in this unit. I have run up to 8 power supplies off of a single 15A outlet with no issues. So, I plug both AC plugs into a single extension cord which may have other items also using the same circuit. How many you run off one outlet is highly dependent on how much power you are drawing. I designed my show to be able to run up to 100%, but run the show at 30% brightness in reality. So, I'm only using a small amount of power relative to 8 power supplies on a single circuit. 8 x 350W = 2,800W where as a single 15A 110V outlet (15A x 110V = 1,650W) should only be loaded up to 80% or 1,320W (1,650W x .8). When you derate the the power used by the 8 power supplies down to 30%, they would draw up to 840W (2,800W x .3) when all the pixels are on all white. There are a number of good reasons to run the pixels at anywhere between 20% to 40%. I hope this helps you.

[@LordHog]

@@NiFamilyLights Thank you very much for the information. This is my first year venturing into this hobby. A learning process to be sure. Also, my mega tree blew over from the wind before I could get my guy wire installed. Broke a few of my props :-( I got my American Earth Anchors today, so will be using those to keep the mega tree safe. I am just now creating the controller box. Man, it took forever to install all the pixels into the black stripes and my hands still hurt.

[@NiFamilyLights]

@@LordHog You are very welcome. The first year is definitely the hardest year to build a show and go through the growing pains of figuring everything out. I wish you the best of luck with your mega tree. Guy wires and a solid setup can't be understated to keep you, your show, and your viewers safe. Check out my video showing how I setup my megatree, if you haven't already. Best of luck with your show!

[@charlesc4325]

Any chance you sell these pre-built boxes?

[@NiFamilyLights]

Sorry, I don’t sell any products at the moment.

[@brendanpratt7760]

Do you stand these upright, or lay flat on the ground? .... was thinking if you stood them up with a post in the ground, the tails hanging down, you'd get better cooling of the case internals, even whilst power is turned off.... cool air comes in from bottom right, and the warmer air leaves from the top left. :)

[@NiFamilyLights]

Brandon, this design is intended for the box to lay flat. If you want to mount it vertically, you’d have to secure the internal contents to the box instead of relying on gravity. You’ll also have to be sure that any holes you drill through the case are sufficiently waterproof. Also, if you want air to flow from the bottom right to the top left, you’ll need to move the fan to the top left. It’s a good idea if you need to vertically mount your enclosure.

[@johnnycrashvideo]

Great video man. I looked at your BOM on FB which is very well done and informative. The one item I was looking to source isn't listed, I'm trying to find 4 pin ip68 connectors that are long like the ones you used. Any idea where I can find them? Thanks

[@NiFamilyLights]

Thanks for the comment Johnny Crash. The connectors I use is from the pixel vendor where I sourced all the pixels, 10' extension cables, and pigtails. They are the same 18awg wire, and all the wiring/pigtails are 3 wire (V+, GND, Data). I purchased these from DIYLedExpress.com but you can get them from other vendors. The key is to source all of your cables and pigtails from one vendor so you don't have compatibility issues. They are not all the same. In the last year or two, the pixel suppliers have come to some agreement on an xConnect connector. Those should supposedly be the same across all vendors, but it's always good to check.

[@ClintChance]

How does this do with heat considering it's enclosed

[@NiFamilyLights]

It does great. Did you see the brushless PC fan mounted to one of the bud vents blowing air out of the enclosure and a second bud vent allowing fresh air to enter?

[@RPOsgood]

You mentioned in your video that your power supplies are generic. Can you tell me what power supplies you are using, where you got them and are you satisfied with their performance and reliability. Thanks

[@NiFamilyLights]

Rick, the power supplies are 12V 360W units. I mentioned generic, as others like to use Meanwell branded power supplies. You can get these generic ones from Amazon, eBay, or other Christmas light vendor sources. These units were purchased from DIYLedExpress.com. I've been happy with the quality and reliability. I'm not pushing the power output capability, so I expect they'll last quite a while.

[@biggie2182]

I looked on the facebook page but didn't see the voltage monitors that you used in this build in the files section can you send me a link to what you used?

[@NiFamilyLights]

Hi Jonathan, the voltage monitors are fourth from the bottom of the list on page 1. To be honest, the voltage monitors look great, but for the amount of extra work wiring them and cutting the mounting board, it isn't worth the extra effort. If you still want to get them, here's the link to the item I purchased. a.co/1E4EiLh

[@biggie2182]

@@NiFamilyLights Thank you and good to know.

[@yakboyz1]

Great box build! Question about the the Lexan Polycarbonate plates. In your video you measure the top plate to be 12” x 14” but in your build list you say to get two 11” x 14” sheets-one for the top and bottom. Did you end up buying a larger size for the top and cut it to size?

[@NiFamilyLights]

Good observation Michael! I must have purchased the 12” x 24” sheet for the top plate and a 11” x 14” sheet for the bottom plate for the measurements taken at 15:57. That was my first build. However, in future builds, I did away with the volt meters and standardized everything to use the 11” x 14” lexan sheets to simplify the builds, hence the discrepancy with the BOM. ammo box build.

[@yakboyz1]

sjn6a98 thanks for the reply. I have two 11” x 14” sheets so I think I’ll leave out the volt meters. Thanks again.

[@yakboyz1]

sjn6a98 what size hole did you drill for the power supply on the top sheet?

[@SlipperyAlpaca]

@@yakboyz1 It's the largest hole saw I had. I measured it, and the diameter is 2-3/8". I think anything greater than 2" would be fine to air flow from the power supply fans.

[@yakboyz1]

SlipperyAlpaca I have a question about power, sorry for so many questions. Because the power distro boards have their own power supply are you cutting the power on your pixel string when you inject power from the distro board?

[@llatrel]

Hey Steve, Thanks again for these videos. Question, when you work with to Falcon F16 controllers do you hook them up directly (daisy chain) or can they be connected together via a switch?

[@NiFamilyLights]

Hey Steve, for the Vine Church show, I'm running 2 Falcon F16V3s that are both connected to a network switch with the RPi running FPP. I haven't used the daisy chaining of the Falcon network interface, but I assume you could do that instead of running both F16s back to a network switch. How many you can daisy chain? Not sure.

[@llatrel]

@@NiFamilyLights Pixelconnect doesn’t truly know either but they mentioned something like 3 or 4 controllers. I went through the manual and looked online and really couldn’t find much of any information about it. Thanks for the info though

[@everythingfeline7367]

From what I know, the connectors act as a passthrough/switch so in theory you could easily have hundreds daisy chained. Latency would build up as you add more but that's not reasonably a concern till you're well past the point of insanity

[@NiFamilyLights]

The developer of the Falcon boards said that the switch interface on the F16 is a 100Mbit interface for the F16v3 and the new F16v4 coming out in 2021. He said that you can daisy chain up to 4 or so before you start to get latency issues.

[@everythingfeline7367]

@@NiFamilyLights thanks for the clarification!

[@li2buenafe]

The blue cable goes out to your Router?

[@NiFamilyLights]

It depends on which blue cable. There are 4 that are attached to the differential expansion board. These connect to differential receivers (aka smart receivers). Although they use Ethernet cables, the data sent is not normal IP data, so you don’t want to connect those to a router. There is also a network cable that’s connected to the network port at the top of the F16v3 (and there’s 2 network ports). That one does connect to a router or switch.

[@li2buenafe]

@@NiFamilyLights Thank you so much Mr.Ni. Im new to this hobby Zero knowledge about Xlights. But Im starting to learn from all of your posted video as far as setting up, connection, parts etc. I only have i.e. 16' Mega Tree with topper star, Roof line, Icicles, 3 window outline, 6 leaping arches, 6 Mini Tree with star, 6 Verticals poles and Star of Bethlehem. I use figure 6 that represents my 6 grand Kidz hehehe. All of this pros and models have already installed pixels. My problem now is connections to my controllers and power them all up.. Right now the level of stress and worry is starting to rise up and we are approaching half of 2021, problems starting to occur i.e. How many controllers i need... how many expansion board i need.. smart receiver i need.. How many PS i need.. where to Power Inject.. etc etc.. All my props or models are all done and ready to deploy But my controllers not yet. And Im still working and following your CG1500 pixel Controller Builds video. I only have 800 sqft single floor house (Rambler type) on a Half acre property. You can chk in google 3801 Forestdale Ave Woodbridge Va. 22193. I need help..! Can you help me? What system can you suggest or recommend for me to use? This is what I have right now.. i.e. 1-F16v3 bought assembled with 12v PS. 1-F48 Bought assembled with 1 receiver and 12v PS 2- Expansion Board with ribbon cables. (board only) 5-12v PS 4- Power Distro (board only) and 2 rolls of each low voltage power supply cable and Data cable. I know I will be needing some more parts and electronic components.. Tenx Manny,

[@NiFamilyLights]

Manny, do not be discouraged. The first year is definitely the hardest and I didn’t get my first year show plans done and deployed until a week before Christmas. So, every day something new got completed and setup. The best thing to do is to make a plan for your controllers, wiring, etc. Draw your house, draw your props, measure distances between props (to plan wiring), and then you can determine the best place to position your controllers so that you can minimize wiring. Find me in the Facebook lighting forums and message me. I’d be happy to review your plan.

[@li2buenafe]

@@NiFamilyLights How can I find you in Facebook? Sorry I'm not so good in computer.

[@NiFamilyLights]

You can email me at [e-mail]

[@Hangernade]

Doesn't look like you used the shunts that come with those volt meters. Guess they are not needed?

[@NiFamilyLights]

The volt meters I purchased did not come with any shunts. They were installed per instructions. That said, I've made more of these for other light shows and didn't bother with the volt meters. Removing the volt meters greatly simplifies the amount of wires under the top plate. With the latest generational controller and power distribution hardware, they all have LEDs that light up when power connections have power. So, they aren't really needed.

[@mkdesignstx]

What did you use for power coming into the enclosure (ac)?

[@NiFamilyLights]

Yes, there are two AC power cord plugs sticking out the front of the enclosure. Depending on where you live, be sure to set the AC to DC power supplies to the correct AC voltage.

[@mkdesignstx]

@@NiFamilyLights what awg is the wire? See so many people running different sizes

[@NiFamilyLights]

@@mkdesignstx It's standard AC power plugs cables, 16 AWG wire.

[@rickhairr9604]

I dont use facebook, anywhere else to get the BOM?

[@NiFamilyLights]

Ricky, I'll post to it to google drive and update the description with the link so you can access it. Before I do that, I want to go through it to make some updates per other comments here and from Facebook.

[@rickhairr9604]

@@NiFamilyLights thanks a ton... these days facebook is just not worth the drama. 8). Closed my account a few months ago.

[@NiFamilyLights]

@@rickhairr9604 The BOM has been updated and I added a link in the description. Best of luck with your build.

[@rayrios4361]

Where can I find those White fan covers

[@NiFamilyLights]

The vents are BUD Industries IPV-1115 vents. You can get them from Amazon, a.co/gRr0N8W

[@kc1boy]

Folks all looks complex. I just bought my first pixel strings 5 2811s. Thats all I have to start can anyone take me by the hand and show or tell me whats next like power, controller I know nothing but am willing to learn

[@NiFamilyLights]

There are a lot of introductory videos at videos.xlights.org. I highly recommend going there and reviewing the "xEssentials" series where they cover many fundamental topics. That's a good place to start. This channel is intended to cover additional topics and how-to that is complementary or not covered specifically by the xEssentials line of videos.

[@motleychristian6462]

please link me to your facebook xLights Support Group page